Decoding Scott Fischer's Role in the 1996 Everest Tragedy
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- Scott Fischer's fateful act may have been the clouded ambition that led him to say they were building a yellow brick road to the top of Mount Everest, and days later he was consumed by the very mountain that had propelled him into the world spotlight as one of the strongest mountaineering guides in the world. (more below time stamps).
TIME STAMPS
00:00 - Introduction
2:03 - references & recommendations
2:44 - Scott Fischer’s background & bringing clients to Everest
4:29 - Extreme conditions on Mount Everest
5:30 - The situation in 1996, important characters in the story and
6:06 - Yellow Brick Road up Everest & pressure to succeed in 1996
9:26 - Timeline of significant events
12:40 Critical errors & decisions
14:24 - Summits + confusion
19:12 - Closing thoughts and analysis of errors made
23:56 - Legacy of Scott Fischer
24:42 - Welcome comments
REFERENCE MATERIALS AND SPECIFIC TIMELINE BACKGROUND USED FOR THIS STORY:
Mountain Without Mercy: The Everest Story
Turning Point episode (season 4, episode 14)
Forrest Sawyer reports on survivors of a storm on Mount Everest
Air date: April 27, 1997
LINK to episode found on David Snow:
• Everest 1996 Disaster ...
DISCLAIMER: All materials in this video falls within the guidelines of fair dealing. No copyright infringement intended. All rights belong to their respective owners. If you are or represent, the copyright owner of the materials used in this video and have an issue with the use of said material, please send an email to Everest Mystery. Thank you
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Introduction continued:
American Scott Fischer, a born mountaineer, was humbled by the grandeur and beauty of the mountains and inspired to guide people to share in that experience.
The untimely passing of Scott Fischer during the 1996 Mount Everest disaster that claimed seven others remains a topic of interest and speculation among mountaineers, researchers, and enthusiasts. While many aspects of the event have been extensively documented, there are still some unanswered questions.
In today’s video we’ll look at the loss of Scott Fischer and briefly examine some of the factors that might have led to the events that claimed his life….
***IN MEMORY OF DAVID BREASHEARS***
==========================
Additional reference material for video is listed below:
Jon Krakauer - Into Thin Air
Anatoli Boukreev - The Climb
and, the exceptional examination of the events of the '96 disaster by
Nick van der Leek - Scott Fischer's 5 Crucial Mistakes + Boukreev vs Krakauer at Camp IV on the South Col
Link: czcams.com/users/live94TzW0NX...
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DISCLAIMER:
Thank you for watching this video! We want to clarify that some of the footage integrated in this content, as well as some of the timeline information, garnered from documentary accounts online, is intended for educational purposes, providing commentary and analysis on the subject matter. We respect copyright holders and have made efforts to attribute the sources wherever possible. Our goal is to enhance the educational value of our content, fostering understanding and critical thinking.
If you have any concerns regarding the use of this footage, please contact us directly. We are committed to addressing any issues promptly. Thank you for your understanding.
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Everest Mystery
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Slightly off topic but I've been reviewing Mallory's fall and I am far from an expert in anything but I'm just curious if his other boot was found? Was it with him? His injuries, to me, suggest that he didn't necessarily "fall" but instead jumped because he was going to fall. Everyone of us would instinctively try to control our fall by going feet first so as not to land on your head and that could be the cause of the leg fracture as he would've landed on that leg and then tumbled.
Wouldn't his boots be on tight enough to not shoot off due to the whiplash involved? Or, was he wearing so many layers of socks that his boot could slide off during the fall? It seems to me that the boot would still be on his foot if it didn't come off during the fall. There's still a single sock holding on.
Also, was there more snowfall in that area in his time? Is it possible that this entire area was covered? The fall line doesn't make sense in 2024. Thinking there would've been more snow in that area which would explain the deviation in his fall if he fell from the ridge line.
Thinking a gust of wind could've knocked him off balance as well which could've resulted in his attempt to control his fall by jumping before he fell. Perhaps the initial fall was a controlled fall and if so would add more clues to one of the greatest mysteries in recorded human history.
What's the reason the Chinese would hide the fact that they may have found Irvine and the camera? Doesn't it suggest that Mallory and Irvine had made it to the summit and the Chinese knew it because the pictures where there to be developed and the claim that they were undevelopable suggest that of course they were and if they said they weren't then that's all we need to know to know that they reached the summit.
The Chinese claim doesn't hold water as there's no real reason to hide the fact that they found Irvine if they hadn't made it to the summit.
I have little doubt, if any, that they didn't summit. Everything suggests that they did and they fell on the descent. Had they turned around they wouldn't have been in a possible state of "chemical collapse" as is experienced by many on their descent.
To me, everything we know and suspect says they did. That film would've been preserved within the cam and unless they messed up the developing, which as a pro photog myself of 20+ years, is difficult to do if you know what you're doing and even if they had messed them up there is technology today and even decades ago that could possibly recover partial images at the least.
Thoughts in the AM ;) Thanks, Eh!
Having read John Krakauer's excellent account of this event, two of my favorite quotes come to mind:
"The word "experienced' often refers to someone who's gotten away with doing the wrong thing more frequently than you have."
Laurence Gonzales "Deep Survival"
*********************************************************
"ln all this world there is nothing so easily squandered
And once gone, so completely last as life."
Kenneth Fearing, "Any Man's Advice To His Son."
1996 Everest was Scott Fischer’s first time as an Mt. Everest Guide; he had failed twice to personally summit Everest. In 1994 he did summit but not as a guide. 1996 was the first time ever, and sadly the last, he guided Everest. Charlottes Fox was the person who gave Sandy Pittman the life saving injection on their descent and Neal and Anatoli both were responsible for saving lives; specifically Pittman
Extremely unfortunate that you're just regurgitating Krakauer's slanted version of events. You ought to read ALL the accounts of those on the mountain. And you ought to review the many controversies left in the wake of Krakauer's other books, and the lies he's been caught in. The short of it is you'll find Krakauer is a seductively good writer, but a deeply flawed and morally lacking person. His modesty routine is a facade for a guy with huge ego and an inability to admit his moral failings. Ironically, the two people from the events of May 1996 who got by far the lionshare of media attention were the two with the biggest axes to grind - Beck Weathers and Krakauer.
@@biscaynediver thanks for your thoughts and insights. I admittedly have not read Into Thin Air in ten years. I looked for it in a box I stored it in when we moved, but couldn't find it. My wife brought one home from the library for me....I'll get to it. I did truly love The Climb, as well. I will clarify why I say that I loved Into Thin Air: it's not in the least that I agree with him on his take of everything that happened. I loved it because of his raw take on the underbelly of an industry and obsession that most books leading up to it kowtowed to. He exposed the truth behind the veil that is Everest. Your comment is very good and I appreciate it. I am considering a Beck Weathers video and don't disagree that there is a hell of a lot more to his story there than a hero coming home then doing talks for $50,000, inspiring audiences in awe of his survival. The axe to grind comment, I'm curious....please elaborate. Thanks for watching
Just saw the headline that David Breshears has passed away at his home. RIP to a legend.
😭💔
😞❤️
I highly recommend David Breshears book "High Exposure". In the book he makes the point about how reduce the risk of dying: When picking a turn around time, it means stop immediately climbing up and turn back down. It does not mean, think about turning around. He writes about forcing himself to turn around a few meters short of reaching the top of one of Seven Summits. It would have taken him 20-30 minutes to go the extra distance, but he had seen climbers die because they went beyond their turn around time, and many died after reaching the summit, but had nothing left to survive the decent. The goal is not to just to reach the top, but to return alive.
😢 I was surprised to read this, very unfortunate.
That's so sad. Time to rewatch his PBS interview. May he journey well.
😢 Broke my heart.
I was living in Seattle in 1996 and became obsessed with learning what had gone so wrong on Everest that day. I now live in North Bend. There's a memorial bench on the Little Si trail that honors Doug Hansen, the USPS worker, who died on Everest in 1996.
I always note that bench on that trail. It’s a great way to remember someone.
You are lucky to be able to live in North Bend.
Damn! I didn’t know. I’ll have to look for it the next time I get a chance. I never knew it was there.
Frankly the harsh reality in climbing customary behavior/etiquette is leave them. So obviously Rob had a heart of gold. I really feel Rob would have saved Scott. But he chose to die with Doug...?? SMH
You should laugh out loud when climbing guides tell you they’ll enforce a turn around time. They NEVER do.
I remember that so vividly I was waiting for my kids dentist appointment and started reading.. Into Thin Air...Rob Hall was the tour guide with Doug Hansen..it was his second attempt and Rob really wanted him to Summit..A freak storm came in and they died coming down..
Scott Fisher and so many experienced climbers died that Year 💔💔💔🙏
Anatoli Boukreev's book The Climb is the best of the several books that I have read on this tragic climb.
It is especially after Into Thin Airs author, gave him a bad name, unfairly.
Beck Weathers Left for Dead is another good one from 96 expedition
Agreed. After finishing it, I wanted to send him money to continue his career. Then learned he had died on another climb.
You like it better than Into Thin Air?
Yes.@@dubbledub4588
What we should learn from this story is exactly what you point out: that key decisions are difficult to make in the death zone while fatigued, thus turnaround times that are decided on while clear headed must be respected absolutely.
Thanks so much for watching....your thoughts are right on point.
Dear Everest Mystery,
🇨🇦 here from Jasper National Park.
Your video has moved me to comment.
For context; Caver here: took many years to accumulate memories of top 8 of Canada’s deepest and 7 longest.
My partners and I lived by “ you are only as strong as your weakest link”
If one called a rout hours in , we would turn.
There is always another day.
Thank you for your channel and your insights; very educational and much appreciated!
Cavers are another breed altogether! My friend Mark Synnott did a feature for Nat Geo in Uzbekistan's Dark Star cave and he gained a new perspective, that's for sure. Thanks for taking the time to comment, great having you here!
The weakest link that matters is the management. Pittman had experience climbing the high summits. Other climbers didn't.
Hi from Edmonton!! 🇨🇦 ❤
@@dana102083 Hello neighbour!
I miss visiting Bannf💔❤️🩹 I moved, and things didn't go so smoothly, so it will be a while. So glad I was able to bring my dog to enjoy the smells before she died (we adopted a senior dog, tried to give her a great retirement ❤️🐕🦺). Someday we'll be back...🥰
RIP David Brashears..just saw he passed yesterday he was there filming IMAX in 96.
A good summary. Incidentally Anatoli fixed the ropes at the most critical section, the Hillary Step while Neil fed the rope out for him.
Being a climber here in the Pacific Northwest. I’ve had a few interactions with people who knew Scott, I never met him but the consensus with all those that did seems to be that he was a genuine, good guy. Just very unfortunate about his passing. Appreciate the video and information. I just subscribed. Great channel, thank you.
Thank you for sharing Scott's story. Somewhere i read about his life from childhood up to his death. He truly seemed like a good man. Rest in peace Scott.
He was an amazingly infectious man who was known to say things like "You're either crusin' or your bummin' so might as well cruise" Scott Fischer.
I truly wish I could have met him....while he may have gone over the line, his charisma and climbing abilities must have been fascinating to be in the presence of
Nice guys aren’t perfect. NOBODY is. And nice guys make mistakes. I can’t really agree that White got Scott killed was his being a nice guy. It was his arrogance and lack of humility that killed him. Sometimes clients don’t need a nice guy, they need the truth. And sometimes that means not accepting them as a client at all. There’s no doubt, he had a good heart. he wanted the best for everybody. But sometimes the best is the truth. Sometimes failure is winning.
@@EverestMystery Thom, if you haven't read Robert Birkby's book "Mountain Madness Scott Fischer & a life lived on high" I highly recommend it. I just bought another hard copy from amazon was under $25. If I remember correctly the digital copy was $8. Definitely paint's a much more accurate picture of who Scott was vs any content I've see on YT.
The 1996 season was the first time I was following along online. I remember sitting at my dining room table to check the progress & was stunned to read the news of the tragedy. I really appreciate you bringing these stories to us in such a thoughtful way. Thank you.
Goes to show you that we all have an expiration date. Unfortunately we don’t get to plan our own. Human error is well, human. We aren’t invincible like we would love to believe. Although his passing really sucked, he also helped inspire another generation of mountaineering.
Yes, he did inspire so many. I found myself in mourning almost while doing this video. I was battling it out on a mountain in Pakistan at the time this was taking place.... The story is a sad tale. Thank you for watching and for sharing your thoughts!
Beautifully said.
All good points articulated well.
No one knows if this could be their last day, but we should all live life like it is🙏
Many people do actually plan their own expiration. 😮
The fact that his team got everyone down tells me Scott Fisher had put together an amazing team. Too bad he didn't take care of himself first. Hopefully lessons were learned about that storm and lives lost. I remember hearing about it on the news. I had just had surgery and I was resting and watching a lot of news. I can remember when I was growing up what a big deal it was to summit Everest. There would be newd stories on TV and in thr newspapers when it happened.
You said it. It seems Rob Hall has gotten more attention, but Scott has my respect.
Fischer (and Hall) let ambition overwhelm knowledge and experience. This is particularly evident by two glaring mistakes: (1) the breakdown in communication regarding rope fixing above camp 4 (significantly increasing exposure time high on the mountain) and (2) the abandonment of the well-established and frequently emphasized 2 pm turnaround time.
I think Scott and Rob were AWESOME climbers, but terrible leaders. Their job was not to summit Everest. Their job was to bring all lives back. Turning people back even if it means they don't summit. . You wonder how this would have ended if Neil didn't volunteer to set ropes. When the leaders aren't leading you are up there with amateurs.
Doug should have been turned back long before. A good leader leads. Rob lost his life needlessly. I forget the name of the gentleman that Discovery followed as a leader, but he lead from base camp. If ever I would have climbed it would have been with him. Shallow thoughts killed many people and changed many lives. Bec never pointed a finger, yet his life was changed and Peachs almost lost her husband. Another great video Tom!!
Excellent insight....THANK YOU. Your take is always right on and very insightful. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to share your thoughts!
@@EverestMystery I enjoy your videos and appreciate that you like feedback.
One of my observations while learning about this is that communication and organization among the professionals (leaders and guides) was not strong. So that supports your thought.
Was it Russell Brice maybe?
Great comment btw!
@pamelah9205 yes it was. Russell is the mayor or Everest
I had read the books and watched the films that you suggested at the beginning of your talk, but I want you to know that I found this so fascinating even though I knew all about it already. Your tale was riveting , thank you.
I absolutely agree 😎
One of my closest friends growing up is the son of MacGillivary, of MacGillivary Freeman Films. A group of us were always on the beach daily, and I vividly recall being able to say hi to the IMAX team at Basecamp one day during one of his dad's calls. The movie was never intended to be the blockbuster it became, but rather an educational documentary like the rest of their vast collection of films. It was the tragedy that unfolded on the mountain that year that drew the world's attention wanting to know and see what happened. Not sure why, but that memory of screaming hi into this huge bulky "cell" phone to the team at Everest stuck with me all these years....
Thanks for your coverage on Mr Fischer’s story!💜
I really enjoyed working on it....it is a rabbit hole, as is everything about the '96 disaster. Thank you for watching!
@@EverestMystery you’re welcome! 😁
What I loved about this video was there was no blame - so
Many people have been ,Team Krakauer’ or team ‘Boukreev in terms of the accounts of both - and laying the blame without knowing the facts or being in that situation - like
You said , and you’ve been there …your barely functioning at that height -- very insightful
why shouldn't there be blame
@@DD-gi6kx I didn’t say that - I stated if you look again , there was no blame in the video - as for your separate question , the only ones who can answer that are those who were on the hill that day. Nobody else knows so any views / comments / stone throwing is purely speculative , and that’s a dangerous thing
@@DD-gi6kx I feel like Lion’s share of the “blame” needs to be laid at everyone’s feet, and no one’s. They endeavored on an expedition where every year 6.5 people die if every 100 that summit. Better choices could have been made sure, and we can point fingers at people in hindsight. But we can’t say with any certainty that the entire team could have survived the storm. A storm that was no one’s fault. It’s an inherently very dangerous thing to do and everyone knew that going in.
Yea I hate all that too. I heard before reading Anatolis version, that he didn't like JKs version. Yes it was different because he had a different experience and is a different person. There is multiple viewpoints and no one is blameless. We have everything to learn from this experience.
They clearly try to place some blame on Sandy Pittman. She was not inexperienced, she has 6/7 summits under her belt and it was her 3rd attempt at submitting Everest. Her story in today’s Everest wouldn’t even cause somebody to raise an eyebrow.
I have always found the 1996 tragedy to be particularly heartbreaking. Scott Fisher and Rob Hall were both so skilled, talented, and knowledgeable, and they established the 2 pm turn-around time for rock-solid reasons. If only they had adhered to it. Fewer people would have reached to summit that season, but we would not be here discussing how many people died. So very sad.
Fischer was fighting altitude sickness on the day. He should recognized that and stayed at Camp 4.
Alternatively, he could have hired someone that would realize he was far too slow, and turned him around at the Balcony.
@@JohnSmith-ux3tt Yes. Absolutely. By all accounts he was impaired and definitely not performing at his usual level. He had top-notch guides to assist his clients (and their actions were heroic) but it is odd that no one said, "Scott, something is wrong with you today, buddy, and you need to go down." Or maybe someone did and the message wasn't strong enough to sink in. Obviously, he didn't recognize his own limitations on that day. Worst possible place to make that mistake.
What about the Sherpas?
Thanks for this. How could I ever forget that day.. I was in the office of MM. I'm the guy who dropped him off at the airport for this expedition. Sure miss this infectious man.. .
For a view of Scott read Robert Birkby's book "SCOTT FISCHER MOUNTAIN MADNESS & a life lived on high"
Getting Outside magazine involved was Scott.. another day I will never forget is when Outside mag. said they're going with Rob's AC. But shortly after Scott being Scott finds and pulls a rabbit (Sandy P) outa the proverbial hat. (saving the day yet again) I don't feel people appreciate how much of a challenge filling a climbing roster at the time was.
At the time there was not much public reach to advertise expeditions other than little adds in the back of climbing and outdoor magazines. So like it or not (in my biased view) Scott was key to letting the world know about Everest.
There were 2 fatalities on the MM team Scott and Lopsang's uncle 2 months later in a hospital in Kathmandu. Which I feel was certainly a stress on all on the sherpas who already were upset by SHP's fling on the mountain.
One last key factor and another day I will never forget at the MM office was the day I brought the crappy 2way radios back from If my memory serves) swallows nest trekking supplies. Crappy because that's all the budget allowed. Yes believe it or not even at those rates of $30-60k per client. Scott was known to haggle.. even to the point of loss meaning if it cost him $ in he just wanted to "make it happen" (MM mantra).
A general contractor that I had done many subs for who is family with Pete and Klev said "Scott just over did himself".
Thanks again Thom,
I guess I don’t understand why making Everest trendy is a good thing. Seems like a very dark story about ego, and people green washing the damage they do to sell environmental awareness is sketchy at best…
@@montananerd8244 green washing?? You mean the fact that MM removed 5000 lbs of garbage and 150 O2 canisters?? That needs to be done to this day and I feel if Scott (who initiated the idea) wouldn't have perished those efforts would have continued and by now it'd be policy to "leave no trace". The Napalese Gov is talking about "blue bags" to defecate into and each climber required to carry it back to Base camp with them. To say "a dark story about ego" I'd guess you are not a climber. Second it's ultimately up to the Nepalese Gov and of course they like the $$. I certainly am not implying making Everest trendy is good. I'm saying it was Rob & Scott who effectively did it. Unfortunately neither are around to see what the fruits of their labor have done.
Lol environmental damage. Some bodies and some trash. Big deal. Humans are so funny everything comes from the earth will return to the earth. Earth will eat It all some day. The one place on earth that humans footprint is a non factor is the top of everest. It be one think if you were crying about rivers and oceans, or woodlands being destroted and gmo plant replaced , or mass pollution from chemical pesticides. No you're crying about something that effects no one
I think so too. All his client had summited, he didn't feel well and was exhausted. There was really no need for him to summit himself in order to make his first MM success. Perhaps pressure from the attendant media became too much of a part regarding his view of MM's accomplishment on Mt. Everest.
It's really heartbreaking listening to him in his last interview. Both Scott and Rob Hall had the best intetions for themselves and their clients. What happened was "Life", all we have is now.
@@somjasa To be candid I think Doug Hansen had a lot to do with the reasoning. Consider he was dubbed "the rescuer". Scott was a very selfless man who if on a mountain anywhere would instantly prioritize helping anyone in trouble.
David Breashears RIP 😢
A devastating loss....beyond description
OMG ... he was my age! Does anyone know the cause of his death? This is heartbreaking. RIP David.
He was found unresponsive at his home.@@Cry.For.Ukraine
@@Cry.For.UkraineAP Reporting: "Breashears was found unresponsive at his home in Marblehead, Massachusetts, on Thursday, Ellen Golbranson said. She said he died of natural causes but 'the exact cause of death remains unknown at this time.'”
He was only 68.
Thanks for doing these videos. I'm an acquaintance of Jochen Hemmleb, that's how I've become interested in mount everest (climbing has always be an interest of mine, even though I'll never be on that professional level). I've soon learned about the 1996 drama. I really have no opinion on my own on this, since a) I'm not an expert and b) many unfortunate factors came together in this situation. I'm just incredibly sorry for those who lost their lives and their families. I do, nevertheless think it shows that sometimes it's better to let go, even of your ambition, instead of pushing through. If you already pushed yourself over the edge, don't go any further. Sometimes it's difficult to realize and accept that pure will in itself won't be enough. But it is important to teach yourself that too. Just a thought.
Apart from this - thank you for making the internet a kinder and friendlier place. It touches me that there are still decent people online who try to act kind towards anyone. I just found you and really love to watch your videos every evening. I will become a member for sure.
It's great having you here, thank you for the great comment and kind words. Very cool that you know Jochen! I'm happy you found the channel and appreciate your thoughts on the atmosphere I endeavor to keep here. Cheers from the US!
I remember after that day and the news got out I became an Everest nut. I read what I could find including the books you mentioned. I believe Scott thought he was invincible which in the end led to him dying. It was Rob that I was more sad for. He died out of love and caring imo. And here it is 28 yrs later and after all these yrs I am finally making my way to Everest. I will be leaving the States on May 9th. I'm only doing EBC, then heading over to Island Peak. This will be my first climb so I must start out with a safe climb. Altitude will also play a part so that is why I choose IP. By the way I am 60 yrs old now so this trip has been a long time coming.
And I didn't mean for it to sound like I wasn't sad for Scott. It was horrible and a terrible day. I do remember shedding tears for all involved. With Scott and the way he did things and feeling invincible was what made him the man he was. I was truly sad at his passing.
Have a transformational journey. Come back and tell us about it.
Yes! Have a wonderful experience and do let us know about it!
Dear man, come back snd tell us all!All the best 😊
Wishing you a wonderful journey and climb.
Be safe.
The positive message and general care and decency this channel radiates never ceases to make me feel good. Thanks for all of your constant hard work in recording the history and culture of the mountains.
I'm glad the tone resonates with you! It means a lot that you appreciate it. Thank you!
It sounds like the climbers forgot the main rule.. at 2pm they have to head down! Period! Ambition and egos got in the way of decisions. After watching a few videos of that climb. My heart goes out to Beck. Being left for dead a couple times, but the drive to survive saved his own life! Thanks for sharing this view.
just incredible , you have a gift of telling amazing Stories.
Тhе biggest fault at least for Fisher group tragedy is on Fisher himself. As you said we would never know why Fisher being in bad shape kept climbing toward the summit while his clients were descending.
Having worked for him at the time I wish he wouldn't have.. in fact i remember feeling a sinking feeling in my stomach at the office when we heard after bringing Dale down that Scott was going back up. But knowing Scott I feel he did because he wanted everyone to make it back especially Doug which I figured knew would be a problem. Not to mention Pittman who was a problem from the start.
@@jjzap2935 Good points. And when he passed clients coming down he was obviously not thinking clearly as noone really can't up there so why were the office not assisting with directions to get people DOWN?? Even down at EBC people were in summit & marketing fever as at the time it seemed nothing could be wrong with that yellow brick way to summit established (by fisher).
@@henrikk2713 there was no direct line to Everest, We were just getting updates from EBC. I have no idea what you think was possible at the time..?? Further why would Scott call the office from Everest even if he could, wtf could we do from the other side of the planet ??
@@jjzap2935 so how could they keep radio Rob right up until his death bed crappy radios & all? surely they could have radiod scott too before he was too long gone...
@@jjzap2935 Brutha you did not work for him shhh
Anotoli Boukreev wrote a wonderful book on this sad event. I’d be very careful citing anything Krakauer reports. He wrongly blames Boukreev in his book - who was a true hero risking his life. Krakauer seemingly felt guilty for his inability/unwillingness to search for others in the storm and this has coloured his reporting on the event.
Agree 100 %.... Bukreev went 3 times up the mountain, while Krakauer was resting in his sleeping bag. RIP, Himalayan Tiger!
@@dilyaramarsh7770 Boukreev was a paid guide whose job included responsibility for the well-being of the clients. I would certainly hope he'd try to save them. Krakauer was not a guide and therefore in a completely different ethical position.
@@louisebaker3793 That’s an awfully sad view of ethics and morals. Whether paid or not, I hope you’d make an effort to save others and not put them at risk with your own actions.
It just seems people believe the last thing they read. “The Climb” came out second so you believe that account. There is no getting around the fact that Anatoli was the first to summit and the first in his tent, with clients still on the hill, and the “Scott wanted that way…” is such a really convenient excuse after the fact. John K does not crucify him, he points out that although one hell of a climber, he was not a good guide. Every guide on both teams were still on the hill. He saved those people for sure, and that was heroic, but that doesn’t change the other facts that people seem so afraid of.
@@truthof7382 Bukareev climbed down only after 3pm, that was past cut out time, he could not make other people go down if they did not want to. Some accounts say he climbed down with other clients, and Beck himself says that Anatolii offered him help on the way down.
Very well done in a short time frame Thom. You covered foibles of human nature with respect and compassion. 👏 Thank you.
I truly appreciate it, thank you!
This was the event that captured my interest in mountaineering, through Krakauer's book. It has culminated with me being a week away from starting my own attempt to climb Everest.
Wow, can you keep us updated on the new regulations (the poop bags, the downsized 'luxury' one-person tents w/ tvs & mattresses)? What outfit are you going with? Oh and what country are you from! I'm Australian, in Fremantle, WA. Do you have mountaineering experience?
wow, many blessings for a successful trip
my parents sat beside him on an overseas flight and he said to my dad "we got the big E dialed". My father who was the doctor one of the first expeditions from the tibetan side in the very early 80s and had talked to reinhol messner after his solo climb was deeply skeptical. You said it all -trying to make money from people who cant even put crampons on is not smart in the himalayas
You are awesome in your knowledge of these stories you talk us through. After listening to your soothing voice i am as close to feeling i was there. Amazing work my friend please keep it going.
Remarkable and lucid analysis. I have followed this story for over 2 decades, and this analysis answers a lot of questions. Thank you.
Living in Anchorage for over 40 years I was well aware of the climbing scene, heli skiing and all other mountain sports....Scott Fischer was well known amongst our group of friends and will always be remembered.
Great job Thom! Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge. 💙🙏💙
I typically pass by on videos where the host is mostly talking, but i listened to this whole video. You did an amazing job finding factoids that aren’t in the major reports. Great script friend! Thoroughly enjoyed it and after watching videos like this I have such a respect for those who make this trek!
Thank you so much, I truly appreciate it. Glad that you took the time to watch :)
What a great legendary story, thank you! Love your channel❤
Thank you ! So glad you’re here 🙏
Really, really well-done video. With you're closing analysis, I learned details I had never known before.
The drive to bolster his business probably can't be overstated. But as I was listening to you, another thought came...
When we experience something so amazing, so beautiful, so life-altering, there is an innate need (at least this is true for myself) to share that with others. You want them to be allowed to experience the gift that nature has given you. That is a powerful thing.
You make a good point. This is how I feel about teaching horsemanship to new students and helping them get to eventually experience a long ride out in nature.
@@LilyGazou What a wonderful thing to be able to teach and share!
Thank you for your video. So much attention has been focused on Hall's team that I appreciated the information about Scott Fisher. May I suggest that David Breashears' Storm over Everest is also an excellent video to hear more updated information about some of the climbers' perspectives about their ordeal? Maybe you mentioned it? Thanks again!
Thanks for covering this story ❤ very well done 💯
A couple thoughts/questions…
It seems like you’re being a bit unfair to Pittman, mentioning that she was a weak climber. But she wasn’t a real amateur… i believe she had at least a couple of the 7 summits completed. It does seem that she was struggling that day, but i dont think she was as weak and inexperienced as you say.
Also regarding Fischer, didnt he have some stomach or liver condition? I dont know where, but i thought i read that his stomach was part of the issues he was having that day.
Unfortunately Boukkreev seems to have caused some of Fischers problems by not being as active a guide (so Fischer went up and down more than he should have). But of course he saved Pittman, Fox, and at least one more person (Madsen?), so hes not the bad guy by any means. its just unfortunate that Boukreev and Fischer weren’t clearer and on the same page about their roles.
Like the person with the previous comment, I too have read several books and watched a few documentaries on this tragic event, but I also still learned something from your video. It's such a poignant story, and you told it with understanding for the situation and for those involved.
I enjoyed your retelling and perspective of this.
Thank you🙌
Thank you :) I'm always happy to see your thoughts in the comments!
The most shocking thing for me is that there were climbers with Makulu Gau who didn't even know how to attach crampons onto their boots. I don't like to single individuals out but i think if Sandy Hill Pitman was not being short-roped by Lopsang, the fixed ropes between the South Summit and the Hillary Step would've been up much faster and they would've been lower when the storm began.
And Rob Hall, Rob died because of Doug Hansen. Doug wasn't capable of making the round trip. Ed Visteurs pleaded with Rob to leave Doug, Rob could've got down on his own as could Andy Harris. Rob left his heavily pregnant wife a widow. Rob broke his own turnaround rules to get Doug to the top. Doug made it to the summit but he was wiped out, even full tanks of O2 were not getting Doug down.
There's no doubt that it was a phenomenal storm and that was the reason for some lives lost. But it was the decisions between two ambitious guides that in the end cost them their own lives, the life of Doug Hansen, the life of Andy Harris and i believe Nasuko Yamba would've been saved without the hold-up with the fixed ropes. And Beck Weathers who didn't summit due to a problem with his eyes could've been spared the life-changing injuries he suffered.
The South African team on the South Col didn't cover themselves in glory refusing to help, but that's another story. Scott (and Rob) over-promised and broke their own rules. That's why it's better to go with a stern leader like Russel Brice, guides have to be able to convince climbers with summit fever to turnaround. As Ed Visteurs said 'Getting to the top is optional, getting back down is mandatory!!
Excellent comment... It mirrors my own thoughts exactly....There was a solo climber on Everest at the same time.... Although his attempt for the summit was a day or so earlier...He was a brilliant young climber from Sweden who had cycled from his home country to Everest hauling all his kit on a trailer...
He was close to summiting but unlike Fisher and Hall he made the decision to turn around...He knew that had he carried on, he did not have the energies to get himself down... He therefore returned to base... When he had fully recovered he was able to make it to the top... Totally unassisted..no Sherpa, no oxygen... Totally solo.... Im sure you will know of this story . If not you must read his book .. Goran Kropp was his name.... Sadly died young in an innocuous accident not long after his epic climb on Everest...
It was Hansen's third attempt. Hall should have turned him around. Failure to "back off the plan" is a staple of outdoor adventure tragedies, and this one, blowing past the 2pm cutoff, is as classic as it gets.
They stayed on the top for almost 2 hours and well beyond the turnaround time and Scott Fisher made the disastrous decision to continue the summit 2 hours too late but you blame Sandy Pittman?!
Ridiculous.
Man, I wasn’t even ten years old in ‘96. I vaguely remember my dad talking about something on Everest. One of the first places I ever decided I never wanted to be.
I was gonna say I wasn’t even born yet, but then I remembered that I was and I’m old af now lol
Great share Thom, I’ve stopped at Fischers memorial at Thukla a few times. 🙏🏼 Godspeed to Breashears as well 🏔️ 💫
Thank u! Excellent summary. What’s surprising was that both Fischer and hall turned back clients on previous climbs for not meeting the 2 pm deadline. It’s sad that sound judgement gave way to hubris.
Fantastic video, fantastic narration and thank you for being both very descriptive and factual, using the natural environment for drama and being respected to everyone involved
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and narration....the voice has done me well in many a telephone conversation, let me tell you lol
The first time I ever saw a real mountain was in New Hampshire in June 1996. A lot of people were talking about Scott Fischer. I never knew who he was until i started down the Everest rabbit hole a couple of weeks ago.
Scott flew too close to the surface of the sun.
Great video. Also, Storm over Everest is the most beautifully made documentary I've seen.
Just wanted to drop a comment to say I really appreciate your videos! Everest stories fascinate me - not so much the mountain itself but the limits to which it pushes the people who climb it. Your perspective is really interesting and I'm really enjoying your channel :D
Thanks so much, I appreciate that you took the time to comment and let me know. I love bringing people together and sharing stories like this. Welcome and thank you!
What intrigues me is how irrational behavior leads to disaster. Especially, group think.
Good video. I read into thin air many years ago and had forgotten about the entire story. Great job pointing out all the things that went wrong. So sad that two iconic guides like Hall and Fischer are no longer with us.
You did an excellent job explaining how this tragedy unfolded just by narrating in chronological order. Very easy to follow. Well done! On a side note, there has been a fairly recent (about 8 months ago) interview with Sandy Pittman posted here on youtube. It's quite interesting...she discusses her version of how everything happened, how she was blamed in the media (starting with Krakauer's book, though she doesn't name him) and how she turned to drinking and drugs to cope with the backlash. I can't remember the channel that posted the interview, but all i did was searched her name and found it. I've tuned in to many of your videos...great channel here! RIP to those who lost their lives during that storm.
Sandy was scapegoated. She was a paying customer. Whether or not people liked her, she wasn't calling the shots. Scott and Rob were, and they failed.
But she was catering to death by Scott Fisher, trying the serpas story some where carrying her and I dont know if all “ paying “ customers were that catered to the extreme like she was.
Excellent summary of the disaster, thanks. RIP to all from the 1996 storm. And now RIP to David Breashears also, pro's Pro.
Fantastic Video!
In David Breashears 2008 documentary, Storm Over Everest, it is actually mentioned that through interview that Makalu Gao continued to ascend because the fallen Taiwanese climber was the one who wanted the team to reach the summit the most. Makalu felt in the moment that the best way to honor him would be continue the climb and reach the summit.
Highly recommend the documentary (free on CZcams) as it has first hand accounts from Makalu, David, Neil, Mike Groom, Beck and others on both Rob Hall’s and Scott Fischer’s teams.
Thank you, this deeper level of intel is important. In another future video I'll expound upon that situation....I went pretty much with David being quite upset about the decision made to ascend. Thanks for watching! I'll check the vid out that you suggest
向David致哀。1996年很多山上發生的事情，若不是親身經歷，而是由第三者轉述就容易失去真實。Scott和Rob以及David我們在攀登期間都有互動，但因為語言隔閡，相互間就比較難於深入理解和溝通，所以容易產生一些誤解。
@@makalugau1064 Makalu Gau! Wow. Thank you for sharing your side.
Another very interesting and informative video 🏴
Don’t know where I’ve been but this channel is new to me and I’m hooked. I’m talking can’t wait to get a hot shower on this stormy night to hunker down and binge watch….thank you and new subbie!
I think you’re right on with your assessment Thom, visions of fame and glory was the overriding factor in these senseless deaths! Great video, professionally done! I look forward to more! 😎
my favorite storyteller on youtube - yeah dude!
Thanks so much!
Always so eloquently put. I would of been 5 when this happened but as I've commented before, it was the first event that got me interested in mountaineering. After being diagnosed with Bipolar type 2 in 2022 I became a recluse for 4 months. Not leaving the house for 6 weeks. But it was covid and the time above that allowed me time to explore the mountains of Nepal/Himalayas. Scott's legacy goes on in books, movies and documentaries. I loved hearing about Ed V and Scott's ascent of K2. He and Ed offer great advice for not just the mountains but life too.
However, still to this day do I believe Sandy P shouldn't of been allowed up there. Yes you could say the same for others but she's was an obvious one.
Thank you once again for this content. Always so empathetic.
Thanks for watching and thank you for sharing a bit of your story. I'm very familiar with Bipolar 2, and know it can completely destroy a person (and is heartbreaking for those around that person). Your take on Sandy P is on point...there are so many angles to the story, really.
I'm really glad you found the channel :)
He and Rob I think were mostly responsible for the disaster.
You're a great storyteller. That they are true stories is a weird real life feeling.
Love your channel, man. Everest is a fascinating but deadly place.
Thanks so much for reaching out and saying so....it's great having you here!
Brilliant conversation.
Rotorua, New Zealand 🇳🇿
Thanks, Thom for the great video, done with respect for everyone involved.
What were the storm forecasting abilities in 1996? Did they know a huge storm was coming at all?
Excellent video essay, thanks. I was in Peace Corps Nepal, hiking up in Solu Khumbu, in April-May 1995, and met the Rob Hall expedition, who asked me to take group photos of them. Weather didn't permit even an attempt that year, and I was very saddened to hear about the events of 1996.
Just learned of David Breshears' passing... 😔...such an incredible person.
Great synopsis, Sir! I just read Krakauer’s book. I’m not a mountain climber, but in the Air Force, we had to do hypobaric chamber training every 5 years. This was so we could recognize the insidious onset of hypoxia at altitude, and know how we personally react in an environment with little oxygen. Doing this, I realized quickly that I would have make a terrible Sherpa. We would also study mishaps & learn from them, and there was usually a “chain of events” leading to a crash. That seems to be the case here, too. Tragic!
Thanks very much for the video and your thoughts. I've visited Scott's memorial in Nepal and it was a cold, windy, snowy day with very low visibility. Made him seem closer in some way. I admire his spirit tremendously. After reading many books on the 1996 event, I think it was inevitable that something like this would happen as climbing Everest increased in popularity. Whenever we humans start to feel that we are invincible and forget how dwarfed we are by nature, she has a way of pulling us back in line.
Excellent presentation!
Thank you, really appreciate you letting me know!
such clear analysis. very calming voice
I have heard so much about Rob halls death but I did not know very much about Scott fisher that you for sharing
You're welcome...my hopes were to fill in some gaps, since I couldn't find much on Scott either. Thanks so much for watching!
Great channel, thank you.
I really appreciate it, thank you!
Once again, thank you!
Concise explanation. Well done.
I was obsessed with Everest when I was a younger man. If you were like me, read Into Into Thin Air. It will give you a very good idea of what life is like in the high mountains.
Well it made me think most of the high altitude climbers are crazy.
Best book I have ever read.
Seriously, I think I read it in two days. I couldn’t put it down.
@@DrRockso0 me neither
You are very interesting to listen to, well done on your research and presentation, carla from NZ
Thanks Carla, really glad you found the channel and it's very nice of you to say!
Just love ur channel,i love everything about everest,what great man Rob hall was not leaving his client alone,and as u say Scott fisher was a good man,oh and i am absolutely obsessed with mallory and ervine mystery,Great job...
But Rob ultimately left his other clients behind.
But he had other people working for him . And Rob was a great person as he could have left and save his life specially as his wife was very pregnant.
Well done! An important point I heard is that when a storm approaches the air pressure drops. Even LESS oxygen. And there was an incident where Andy Harris was asked to lower the oxygen flow on a climbers tank to conserve and he turned the control to higher. Harris had also reported that the oxygen tanks they cached were all empty. I feel that had Boukrev hadn't rested after his summit he couldn't have made two trips to get the climbers.
Ive been obsessed with this Shakespearean drama. Watched everything a few times. Still canrt reconcile it.
I think it says alot that Sandi Pittman won't give any nterviews. Beck Wethers, superhero.
However concerning Scott, I think youre right, . .and he took himself too seriously maybe, assuming he could just "do ir" . Tipped over the edge of reason. Very sad indeed.
She could have shown some gratitude for the man who saved her life. That really made her look worse.
Find my main comment here. She did one in 2023. Info is in my comment.
I agree with the analogy of the Shakespearean tragedy. Especially when the adverse effects are of the hero's making
Maybe she signed a confidentiality agreement with those who contracted her to write about her Everest adventure.
You sort of say the same thing in your conclusion here but I really love how Jon krakauer in the end on Into Thin Air sums up wether the mountaineering community learned from the 96 Everest disaster by talking about the mistakes that were made within the very next year that lead to more unnecessary deaths from poor judgment. I don’t remember exactly how he worded it but I remember it being a great conclusion to the book.
Great video thank you 🙏
Thank you for your work. The fact that you narrate it so well, and appear talking on camera, is a treasure, in this era of mediocre AI generated CZcams Channels. 🙏🏻
Thank you for your insight and opinion.
Its astonishing that after all this time, the opinion on Sandy Hill has still not become more nuanced. In 1996, she had climbed 6 of the 7 summits and some more, she had had 2 attempts on Everest the previous years which were cut short due to bad weather and avalanche danger, NOT due to incompetence.
She was maybe not the most likable character, but a more experienced mountaineer than most of the other climbers on the mountain that fateful day.
She defended Anatoly Boukreev in 2006 and how is that not being thankful?
Nobody can tell in advance how things will work out for you in the death zone. Some who were always strong become weak, altitude sickness can have spared you on other ascensions and then strike you on this particular one. All those who were on the mountain that day and survived, not only were deeply traumatized, but their memories differ due to the altitude and oxygen depravation of their brains. They all dealt differently with their traumas, so let’s not judge them too harshly.
She had a lot of hubris, but she didn't cause any deaths. Everyone up there was selfish. She's possibly an awful person, but she paid her way same as the others. Scott may have been a great guy, but he and Rob failed their teams.
Because she was a female from an affluent background…. In a sport of manly men whose fundraising was more challenging. Also, Sandy hooked up with a younger man. If one of the men had done that with a younger woman they would probably have high-fived him!
@lauracarrolldebolt9233 True. There's a recent interview with her online. She came off as very likeable to me. She's a big, strong woman who is incredibly capable. Some men find that intimidating.
She was definitely a negative factor
Pile of bulsh!t
Sandy got extra bottle on her way up, and extra bottle on her way down!
Besides that, she was literary “dragged” on her way up, and surprise surprise on her way down, AGAIN.
She may pay the same, but most certainly she got way more than the others clients there!
And those are the facts! (from people who were there, not you!)
Someone had to get her extra oxygen up! Someone had to bring her useless 30 pound heavy satellite phone up! Someone had to drag her… someone had to in all-times take care of her… and finely someone(s) had to rescue her!
So after all those wasted resources(especially human ones), she Sandy Pittman was probably the solo reason for the traffic jam and lateness in the first place!
As someone cleverly put it in words: She was a social climber, and successful only at that!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your amazing gift, I truly appreciate it!
good objective analysis
Another link in the chain was Anatoli Boukreev. He was supposed to be a guide, but summited ahead of his team without oxygen, and then descended before them. Later he went out into the storm to rescue people, but he was not supposed to climb without oxygen in the first place.
You have no clue what Boukreev was supposed or not supposed to do.
Toli, was unfairly scrutinized by author of Into Thin Air, Jon Kraukeur, sic.
Read Anatolis book The Climb.
The Climb is a great book👍🏼
Great video
David Breashears you will be missed. You were a positive influence for us looking at the history of recent mountaineering.
Awesome video!
Aside from this video, I have incidentally exchanged commentary with Michael Tracy. I find his knowledge of mountaineering and history of events to be lacking in content, information, and far from accurate. Our commentary was focused on sherpas while his responses showed ignorance to how mountaineering and the use of sherpas has changed and evolved, how clients being guided are now the majority and government mandates are requiring assigning sherpas to climbers, clients, and teams.This has lead to the sherpas’ having entitlement attitude towards climbers. He furthermore doesn’t understand the the training they have participated in learning comes from climbers and guides visiting their country through time and history.
He also doesn’t understand sherpas and sherpas that assume guiding position are different people. Sherpas that have been educated and can assume guiding positions total far fewer individuals.
Through my exposure to Michael I am now aware that his videos are a directed attack on this channel and Mark. Reflecting on his ignorance with commentary exchange, he should refrain from producing ANY videos.
In our exchange, the 2012 -13 outburst of sherpas against Ueli, Jon and Simon were cited as examples to debate point of view. Then he included Messner in his comment which was outrageously out of line, considering history and timeframe. He doesn’t understand how misguided his interpretation is!!!
Anyway, now would be a perfect time to produce the video we discussed in your last response to me.
Yeah. I've enjoyed some of his videos regarding Mallory but the Tracy video regarding this 1996 incident is a hardly veiled, tendentious attack on Krakauer, who he's painting as a fraud presumably jealous of Boukreev and trying scapegoat anybody but himself. Whole I can't vouch for Krakauer's character, his account is very measured and is in general agreement with Groom, Biedleman, and Breshears. Tracy even makes the statement: "Krakauer in one version helps fix ropes with Biedleman, and in another says he climbed ahead of Biedleman after helping with the ropes around the step and south summit. It's either one or the other: you are either climbing for the summit or fixing ropes. It can't be both."
Why it can't be both isn't explained, and that elaborating on some retelling doesn't invalidate the original telling. At altitude the brain hardly works.
My thoughts are with the friends, family and those who crossed the path in life of David Breashears. Wishing all of them the best in this difficult time. Many thanks, Thom.
I was fortunate to know him, work with him and share some intense conversations about Everest and beyond, one in particular I recall was in Namche Bazaar after the Everest was closed in 2014. I'm frankly stunned, truth be told. It's a big loss.
Great video. I appreciated your measured tone with respect to this tragedy. This is a good illustration of what happens at the intersection of Safety and Commerce. Both Fisher and Hall were more than qualified and fit enough to get to the summit and back on their own. However, the same cannot be said of many or their clients. Pittman certainly had no business being on the mountain. The litany of mistakes, the failure to honor their previous turn-back time, the diminishing margin for error - all combined to create the disaster. The storm caught them by surprise, but it's no secret that big mountains "create their own weather". The financial pressure to accept unqualified clients and guide them to the summit amid great media fanfare is a perfect recipe for disaster when the weather turns on you. These climbs require exceptional physical and mental stamina. You can blather all day long about having determination and a "can-do" spirit, but if your legs crap out on the descent because you simply run out of gas, you're likely going to die. You get clumsy, you get slow, maybe run out of oxygen - it's a cascading series of setbacks that can overwhelm even the best climbers. The deaths of both Fisher and Hall are a testimony to that. Krakauer, no slouch when it comes to climbing, wrote an excellent and sympathetic book, but the fact that he properly appreciated the commercial trap that Fisher and Hall fell into resulted in a lot of criticism from people in the climbing community who didn't like the very accurate conclusions he drew. I think the intervening years have demonstrated that the growing commercial fiasco on Everest is a continuing disaster waiting to happen. Moulton Avery
Sandy P wasn’t the only client of Fisher or Hall who could be described as a liability.
Anyone who knows about this disaster, knows that. What we also know is that Sandy P had to be short-roped up the mtn which directly caused a cascade of time problems that led up to the tragedy. She also came off as totally obnoxious (bf and during) and ungrateful (after). So, she does come in for special scrutiny.
@@reidawg72So does Scott. He never should have allowed Sandy special treatment. That's on him, not Sandy.
Stick together sister! Damn the facts when agendas and motives become more important.
Scott Fisher's responsibilty
No, but I get the feeling that had she not been there it would have been different. Just taking the Sherpa out of the equation (to tow her up to the top) may have set off a chain of fatal events
If it hadnt been for the endurance of Anatoli Bukreev there would have been deaths on Scotts team. Anatoli,who climbed without supplemental oxygen, was the clearest thinker and the real hero of Everest 96 and he justly deserved the award he was given. Despite what "moaner" Krakauer said in his book.
So true....Anatoli made a huge difference....he's worth a full video, that's for sure
Sorry, but Anatoli should have used oxygen and stayed with the clients. Scott should have insisted. Beidleman was the real hero that day.
Lopsang also sounds like an absolute athlete machine
i don’t know how I can be so attached to a group of climbers that died before I was ever born. but i feel like i know those men, and i grieve their losses.
This story is a rabbit hole....people become obsessed with it, there are so many layers. Thanks for watching, it's great having you here!
thank you, as a pakistani, born in Rawal Pindi, i love your content. currently living in Taos, i too play guitar and play in mountains.
Wonderful having you here. I truly loved the time I spent in Rawal Pindi. I had a magical experience in Pakistan and have told people on many occasions it is the most beautiful place I have ever visited.... Thanks for reaching out! Perhaps a jam session in Taos some day? :)
I've read, "Into Thin Air", which is a fascinating read.
Very informative
Great job!