DIY CNC Plasma Table Based on JD'S Garage plans
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- DIY CNC Plasma Table Based on JD'S Garage plans
get your plans from @jdsgarage701
My STL files that I created for my build
Belt active XL
drive.google.c...
Belt idler XL
drive.google.c...
Arduino Uno Holder drive.google.c...
CNC Aerial Connector drive.google.c...
Conduit Sleeve drive.google.c...
X-Axis Roller Attachment drive.google.c...
WEN CM1452 15-Amp 14-Inch Premium Multi-Material Cut-Off Chop Saw
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Inland filament amzn.to/43gV39G
Burring tool amzn.to/3NQLDvM
Gx16 4pin aviation connectors amzn.to/3XLTkrG
Jumper wires amzn.to/3PW72GC
Usb cable amzn.to/3NMuvaM
Tap and die Set amzn.to/3OcTeq9
Get 10% off your order on YesWelder website and use my code, HARWORK at checkout. yeswelder.com/...
List of items I use:
YesWelder FIRSTESS CT2050
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YesWelder FIRSTESS MP200
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YesWelder MIG205DS-B
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YesWelder CUT-65DS
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Flow Meter Gas Regulator for Argon/CO2 Welding
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Atomic Dice x YesWelder | The Aggressor Q800D
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Heat Resistant Welding Gloves
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YesWelder 150AMP Spool Gun | Aluminum Welding Gun Torch
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Welding wire
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Tungsten
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Tungsten Electrode Sharpener Grinder
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5LB ER4043 Aluminum TIG Welding Rod
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ER308L Stainless Steel TIG Welding Rod
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5LB ER70S-6 Mild Steel TIG Welding Rod
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40a 220v 8awg power extension cord
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The usage of a linear bearing as roller at 11:15 will live in my nightmares forever xD But what a cool idea! It's a solution, it works, solves the problem quickly and I love it lmao
I'm working on a custom design of my own and facing some of the issues described, already taking them into consideration at the design/prototype phase.
I will be making some changes to my table soon
I saw the original film from JD garage, snd liked the set up. Having watched your film I'm going to order the plans and build one. Thank you for an informative film
Awesome, thanks for watching. Let me know how your build goes
I am almost done building this same table. I was worried about the X-Axis sag at full extension that you were discussing. Brilliant idea using extra hardware to make that bearing roller support. I am going to make this addition to mine as well. Much love and support from Texas!!
Thanks for the feedback. Let me know how everything turns out. It's a great machine. I did a lot of cutting this past weekend with it.
Yeah good idea! I just got the plans this week and picked up the metal. Currently getting ready to print the plastics.
I put a caster on the end of the x axis that rolls on the frame of the table that holds the water table. Works grest
@@user-cv1hy3vz1z I thought this was a great idea as it reduces even more weight and material... Unfortunately thinking about it more, wouldn't this also then reduce the limitations on the length of the sheet you are cutting for example, if you were cutting say the same pattern on a 2m long sheet, the sheet fits inside of the frame width wise but for the length, you physically slip it up further after previous cut complete, in this situation, if you have the bearing running on bottom frame rail this wouldn't work or you would end up having it roll over the metal your cutting causing it to be off-center the opposite direction. If you only plan on doing smaller cuts this would be more cost effective, in my situation i need the extra length so I will revert back to the original idea here in video.
Adding a touch more voltage will help tremendously on your welding settings. Or do the adverse and drop wire speed a touch
Thanks for the feedback
Fantastic video, I was on the fence about the plans, the fact that the cutter touches the working surface on every cut sold me on it!
Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
mine worked well in till i installed the Z axis, still does but i could never find the right post processor or some thing for the z to work right :( But I am gonna get back on it one of these days.
@user-ij8bv8eq4i what's wrong with your z-axis? Is it not probing ?
Thank you very much for your building feedback ! It is always nice to share about the achievements and know hows to solve problems on the way.
I am currently in the same process, almost finished it. I had some issues and still have some.Three fixed or fixable issues, and one pending :
- I made a big one, almost 2 meters by 90 centimeters (6 by 3 feet more or less) One issue i recently fixed was holting the torch cable and wireson such a range. Using a tilting tube with a hinge, when you work far from the the "home" corner, and having it get back vertical with a spring strong enough fixed this issue.
- I could not find a thin steel tube for x axis either. Used an aluminium one as well. I will see soon, to which extent it is sagging, your solution may be an inspiration. There may be another issue with the aluminium material, I have the feeling it may quickly wear because of bearings friction, and not wear in a homogeneous ways along the axis, especially if you settle the round tube cutting module How do you see that hazard ? Should that happen, I guess bolting two thin steel corners along the X axis could pave a hard and longlasting road for these bearings.
- I may consider switching to steel tensioners, both on X and Y axis. PLA printed does not look rigid enough, do they ?
- But my main concern regards the kind of plasma cutter and the ability to cut thin materials acurately. How thin was the thinnest you cut ? Which size remained satisfying ? I have a device that is both a AC/DC TIG welder and Plasma Cutter, the manufacturer did not say if it was a Pilot, HF or a contact plasma start. My TIG arc starts with HF, and I have some arduino disconnect issues, I hoped making a farraday cage for the electronic, blinding and grounding everything, installing some low-pass filters would solve the issue, it is still not the case. I may do a bit more in the EMI blinding process, but you are yourself blind in this effort, can not see or guess properly where the electromagnetic noises come from or spread, which aditionnal work will make the difference. May be buying a new CNC compatible cutter would be more simple. Therefore my question, how thin can you cut ? I read on a corporate article the pilot arc torch is the moste CNC compatible but accurate mainly in the 1-2 inches range of thickness, what is your opinion about that ?
Thanks in advance for your reply !
Thanks, keep me posted with your build. I it was a fun build and I use it all the time.
The 3d printed sleeve I created for cable holder(electricians 3/4 conduit) works great and allows the conduit to pivot depending on where it is on the build table. The size table you are making, I can see where a spring is useful.
The aluminum seems to be holding up just fine. Time will tell.
For the PLA parts, I printed them with the exact specifications the plans called for and kept those specifications for the parts I created. Those parts are solid, and I have no worries with them.
With the plasma cutter, make sure it is Non-High frequency or “blowback” and make sure it is CNC compatible or can actually be converted to work with a CNC. HF can mess with your electronics
I have no problem cutting thin material. The thinner the material, I lower the amps and increase the speed. Most plasma cutters will give you a cut chart with amps and speed settings for material gauges that you are cutting. If not, you can find a chart online.
When I make signs, I use either 16 gauge(1.6mm) or 14 gauge(2.0mm). Making brackets or hinges, I tend to cut with 3/16" (4.78mm)
If you are having issues with electronic noise, make sure your wiring is shielded. I had a small issue early on. The noise was triggering the z-axis switch. I replaced the wire with a better shielded wire, and that resolved that problem.
Hope I answered all your questions and the information helps
I ordered their kit a few months ago, i'm acquiring the materials as i go and i'm excited to get it together soon!
Great review!
Thanks, it was a fun build, and I love the machine. Enjoy your build.
You can add "speed holes" along the aluminum. With your weights that should not affect strength
Speed holes could work. Just have to be careful not putting them in the path of the bearings
Yes, nice build. I'm currently ALMOST mechanically complete a table like this. I like the idler for the outrigger arm! I'll be adding that to mine.
Thanks, and good luck with your build. I really enjoyed my build, and I use it all the time.
Very good informational video, thank you. I bought the plans from JD's Garage 7 months ago but haven't built it yet. This video gives me the drive to finish it. Love the upgrades. Thank you again.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. Enjoy the build, I had a lot of fun building it. I find excuses to use it all the time, I love it
Thanks for sharing the build with us. I use my JD Garage plasma cutter table no stop and love it.
It was a fun build, I love it as well. I have been using it all the time as well. It's a great tool
I put a single 608 bearing on a plate down to the chassis rail to solve the same issue. Im not convinced that a linear bearing is going to cope for long in a rotary motion… the ball races are not oriented in that direction, but anyhow… the loading in this application is so light that it might be fine for a long time… time will tell.. :)
Thanks for the feedback, I agree time will tell. The load is so minimal, that's why I was good with this solution. I use the CNC all the time, and so far, it's working perfectly
Nice build!
I’m planning on building one myself thinking about adding inner slip leg extensions to get it off the floor a bit.
Thanks, that's the great thing about the design. It leaves plenty of room to customize the build
Nice build. I saw their channel about a month ago, looks good, a fun DIY build.
Thanks, it was a very build. I use it all the time.
Super nice Build, ive been considering this machine, also nice solution, the extra rail.
Thanks, it's absolutely worth it. It's a fun build, and I use it all the time. Love it
Nice Job! I am building two (2) sets of Y-Axis to put on both sides to support the X-Axis, had planned to do it this way from beginning just for fear of gantry moving which you just confirmed is and issue. Basically just building two (2) of the gantry supports, one for each side, will have to add second stepper motor, but those are cheap enough.
Thanks, let me know how you make out with your build.
How about "4x4" with a shaft driving through the X-axis instead of a second stepper motor, which could get out of sync?
Oops I got aluminum tube for my X rail too, guess I'll have to mod up a bearing also. Neat looking work !
Thanks for the feedback. See how runs before adding the railing. If it's slightly off, you may be adding shims to level the pan to match the slope. Mine was just too much, that is why I used the rail
@@harbaughsworkshop I noticed your using Inskape I think to design, after that how do you create toolpaths? Are you using the "OpenbuildsFusion360PostGrbl.cps" they reference from the video from JD's Garage CZcams page? On the lines they say to edit , they have characters there, they are not blank. Im confused if I should delete those ? I have mine moving manually and even with my Vectric aspire with the grbl.pp, I can run "air" jobs. Im new to the PP editing but the dirty stuff and welding smoke I get. I really like your band saw. Is it operated with a foot switch?
@@harbaughsworkshop I think the support rail is a great idea, overall long terms, its slightly more cost for the build but it will increase the longevity of it too. Its reducing the wear and tear on bearings immensely.
Thank you. Good coverage. I've just ordered the metric version of the plans (after watching your video). My downside is that my current plasma cutter is not CNC compatible so I'm up for a replacement of that when I have the table built.
Thanks, great. I had a lot of fun building my table. JD's garage did an awesome job with the plans.
The bulk of the frame is built now. I messed up at least one beam and need to wait until next week to acquire the extra material. I have a decent mill with dro so the drilling was done in that (not related to the error with the beam).
I have an iSV57T-180 servo motor with integrated driver and step/dir control. I'll be trying it at some point but am not sure how well the integrated driver will go with the plasma electrical noise.
Thanks for the update. If you don't mind, keep me updated, and let me know how the motor works out
I really liked your video build. Mine I ordered to day. Could you show how you illimated the use of a lap top. Look forward to watching more tips from you✌️👌👍👁
Thanks, I will put together some video showing the Bluetooth module, and the other changes, and add-ons I did to my CNC.
Nice project. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing! I really liked that extra Z-axis brace that is removable. Nice solution
Thanks, Jim. I love how everything turned out. I am very happy with this machine
it´s pretty great but not as great as soon from outside,. making it work is a hard work. well done
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback
Thank you for the video. I am just about to build one of these and it will be great to incorporate some of your improvements.
Thanks
I love my yes welder multi process machine. I'm thinking about making a plasma table out of a laser engraving machine. I could still use the laser setup also
Nice, let me know how your build goes
Sounds good. Should be fun. Just hope I get enough use from it
@@robinwendt5527 I am sure that won't be a problem. I use mine all the time.
Looks nice working. I bought also the plans from the plasma cutter. I hope I got it this year to build. Best wishes from Germany hope to see more from you.
Thanks you
Totally wild build
Well done!
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Thanks
Thank you-I want to build one too!
Thanks, it's a great project
Very cool. There is one of these in my future!
It's definitely worth it. It's a very fun build and an awesome tool to have.
Would you mind doing an in depth video on the electronic and how to wire everything.
Table looks great, finished mine a few months back. I gave your channel a subscribe will have to check out your other videos
Thanks
Could u share the STL files for the electronics holder and the other stuff ? im building a Cnc plasma cutter from JD'S as well :)
Edwin I just added links to those Stl files in the description
@@harbaughsworkshop Awesome! Could you also link the water pan ?
@@Edwinbackstrom-qb5ck added the link
Great job, I like the extras also, I recently made one also but I went as big as I could with that design, I also use aluminium for the gantry and am showing wear now from the bearings, If I made this again I would go steel for sure, I also had the sag and used the same idea that @made-by-dad had done with his. Good job mate!
Thanks
I made this table cut size 50"x36". Having some vibration issues and hoping an idler bearing will help.
I saw the jd video aswell and you did a great job but it seems to me all the time and effort plus the cost of materials i think it's worthwhile to just buy the a 4x4 table already done it's only a few hundred dollars more 😂😂
Very nice machine. I just found your channel and subscribed.
Thanks, and thanks for the support
First i too , have puchased the JD's garage plans, and the 3 d parts. I will be utilizing the x axis tube support you designed as well. I intend to enlarge the table some so i feel the support is even more imperative. I have 2 questions. First, can you think of any other considerations i need to incorporate in an enlarged working area ? I will be extending the x axis to leave a 30" and y axis elongation to 40". My primary concern is probably the electronic element. I am a total novice when it comes to programming and dont know if changing the dimensions will require me to make alterations to any of that . Secondly i notice you have used a much thicker walled tube then is called for on the gantry tube. It does not appear you have experienced any issue as a result. I cannot find 2 1/2"×2 1/2"× .125 tubing anywhere locally but .25 is redilly available. If i can use that then that is what i will do. Thank you for your time and insight.
JD'S Garage does a great job walking you through the plans. The size of the CNC does not change anything with the software. Try and keep the weight down on the x-axis as much as you can. If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out, and I will help as much as I can. Enjoy the build
@@harbaughsworkshop thank you my friend
Great job on both the build and video!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback
Wish they had had this stuff back when I could do the work. I'm too old now (75 and not great health).
Thanks for reaching out, I appreciate your support. I am looking forward to your input on my future videos. If you have any project that you would like to see, let me know. I'd love to try my best to make it happen
Nice build
Thanks
So awesome. How’s it a year later?
Works incredible! I am now looking to make it larger
I see your Bauer portaband saw....is that stand and table it's attached to the one sold at Harbor Freight?
I built the stand from scrap metal I had. I will be releasing a video shortly on how I built it.
Since you used a roller to support the arm reach; do you think this could be sized up to 4'x4'.
Yours turned out real nice.
Thanks, I believe this would support could handle being 4x4
Excellent build,love the X axis support idea. Can I ask what size/torque stepper motors you used for each axis?
Thanks, all the stepper motor details are listed in the build material list.
Nice video. I will be buying the plans as well. Thank you!
Just an fyi your intro music is way too loud.
Thanks, and thanks for the feedback. I will adjust the volume in future videos.
Dobra robota .O.K.
Dziękuję bardzo
Nice build!good idea to support the axis both way...I think it's not a good idea to suspend it only one side...heat time etc make it sag
Thanks
great video! when you say the X axis was too heavy, you are saying that the torch is moving the opposite end of the axis, right? I am very interested in your personal changes! Whoa, I found all your 3-d print designs in the description! that is awesome! thank you... 5x thumbs up!
Thanks, yes, when the torch is headed out to the opposite side it starts to sag. Not a lot, but enough to make a difference
@@harbaughsworkshop IF you are using a washing machine pan for your water tray, I believe you can save a few bucks by buying from Vevor, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply. Not sure you are using a washing machine pan, though!
@Halfwheelhell I am using a stainless steel washer tray. I am sure you can find many different trays at different prices. The one from Vevor looks to have a plastic drain. If you were to use that one, I'd replace it with a hose bib or another metal/brass spigot or drain.
On my tray, I did add a spigot on the bottom of the tray attached to a 15' garden hose to drain my tray
Size was also a factor that isn't a huge deal, but it would change your dimensions
Very nice build👍
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback
Do you necessitate such a large X/Y axis? The plasma gun/wiring isn’t heavy, and there’s no axial load, so I assume a smaller armature would be sufficient. Interesting nonetheless!
The size of the x,y axis is not necessarily about the weight or load but for more stability, and it gives room for adjustments to help dial in the gantry/x-axis. The gantry is designed to have two bearings on each side of the tube, and two of those sides, the bearings are adjustable. This is to help level the arm.
You mentioned the software in the video but I couldn't make out what you said. I wouldn't have a problem building this but I'm clueless on getting the design or cutting pattern from my brain to the table. What software and steps are involved? I do 3D print so not totally clueless, LOL.
I software I use is inkscape, great software, once you get the hang of it you can do a lot with it.
Молодец, хорошо получилось.
Thank you
Awesome job. I purchased the plan today to build mine. I was wondering which 3D Print material did you use? The doc recommends PLA but I’m a bit concerned that the heat resistance of PLA is too low, especially for the parts close to the torch receiving sparks. Thanks a lot. Cheers from France
Thanks, PLA works perfectly. Follow the settings that is specified in the plans for Infill, wall thickness, etc. The parts are more than strong enough
@@harbaughsworkshop will go with PLA then 😉 thanks for your feedback
Since it's now been 3-4 months later... have you had any issues with spatter sticking to your X axis tube?
Would you do it the same way again, or find the thinner wall steel?
I have not had any issues whatsoever. I am making some improvements, not because of issues but to add to it.
Nice job with the modifications. I wish you would have spent more time on the modifications you made, especially the added roller and the added railing (how did you mount it). Also thanks for providing the STL files... I'm currently getting the BOM together... and hopefully will start the build soon. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to house the electronics? BTW, love your collection of tools :)
Thanks for the feedback, I am using clamps for now to hold the rail, and I am using shims to adjust the height. I do plan on bolting the rail in place. I wanted to do several cuts, large and small. Once I am happy, I will add the bolts. Honestly, it's working perfectly the way it is, so I am in no rush. I was thinking about reposting the video and include more details of the changes I made and add additional changes like how I added a drain to my water pan.
The housing for my electronics is an old box from my work that was trash, so I recycled it into this project.
I am running out of room with my tool collection, lol
@@harbaughsworkshop Definitely would be interested in a video showing more details. Just last night I was thinking about adding a drain to the pan. Would make it a lot easier to change out the water. I modified your STL for the Arduino holder, I have both v5 and v6 of the Bluetooth board and wasn't sure which one I will use in the end so I include a place for both. If you had a shop the size of a football stadium, you'd eventually run out of room if you didn't run out of money first :)
How was the aluminum tube heavier than the steele tube?? Does that mean the is will have worse sag with the steele as the plans call for??
I went with the aluminum because my steel provider didn't have the thin gauge the plans call for.
I bought a cnc plasma table to make it easier to make my homemade one. Just haven't got around to building it yet. Opps
Once you do get around to it you will love it. I use it all the time
Very nice build, Do you have the STL files for the changed bet tensioner for what you changed? Thank you!
I added links in the description
nice job
Thanks!
Nice build.
When I first watched your video I’m sure you said the plan’s templates were 1:1 scale, so that you can simply use them to mark out your flanges etc, making the whole build simple, but when I purchased the plans they’re given to me in 1:2 scale, meaning they’re not worth a knob of goat turd or I’m fixing to have one hell of a small plasma cutting machine!
Any reason for that do you know?
Thanks.
The x motor plate, y axis connecting plates, y motor mounting plate they are in the one to one drawing folder, the tube drawings and brackets they give you the measurements you need, the 3d printed guide lines up some of the holes.
Let me know how your build goes. If you have any questions, just ask, and I will try and help in any way I can
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks very much for your willingness to help there, I really appreciate it.
I'm from New Zealand so there's going to be a bit of metric to imperial 'clashing' but I'm sure we could work the basics. Also, I'm not really sure when I can build this thing, it may be 9 or 10 months, or so, away yet. I just got the plans in advance so that I can mull it over and try to get familiar with the build, but anyway.
No, my Motor Plates, and Y-Axis Connecting Plate plans are definitely in 1:2 scale, it even says so on the plans! I'm not quite sure what's going on there but I'm not going to be able to 'simply' trace around them in any way, like I'd hoped. ☹ I have just sent an email to them at JD's, so I'm awaiting there response.
Anyway, I'm happy to take you up on the offer for when I go to build one of my own, you'll have a lot more experience with yours by then and will know if any quirks develop.
Thanks again.
@@harbaughsworkshop
Yes, I think you’re right, I understand that now. There’s too many folders and files etc to get my head around!
I can actually be quite dumb when it comes to things like that… not looking forward to the electronics or programming the thing! 😬
Thanks again.
Aluminium square tube for x axis bad idea -hardened bearing surfaces will wear off alluminium quicker than mild steel.
So far, the aluminum is holding up with no issues. I do have plans to do some upgrades to the table soon.
I enjoyed you video very much i have watched many of these over the last couple of months.
I too have limited space as your self
So not looking for a behemoth of a table.
I do have no cnc experience or 3d printing
And im from the UK so a little nervous about trying to source parts
When watching the build i thought about the second arm 1. to support the aluminium 2. Due to the sourcing issue that you could then use mild steel ?
Again great to watch thanks
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, you can use mild steel for that part.
I'm getting ready to build.
Do you see a benefit of adding the Z axis?
I get it for the initial touch-off...
But having the cnc do it every time it makes a new cut!?
The sheet stock is going to be pretty damn flat to begin with.
Am I just not seeing the advantage of the Z?
The Z-axis is nice, especially if you are using different size material. Instead of dialing it in every material change manually, it sets the height perfectly each time. Plus, if you are cutting thin material and if the material warps at all while cutting, it has the chance to pick up on it. It's not perfect but I like having it.
I see you replaced one of the shins with aluminium? I'm thinking about it too. Why only one? Did you keep the size? Is it metric or inch?
I used aluminum on the x-axis, and y-axis motor mounts. The torch mount, and I used an aluminum 2 inch by 2 inch square tube
For the x-axis to try and keep the weight down
Hello, the plans say. to use a low frequency blow back start type of plasma cutter. Is that what you found?
One main requirement for a plasma CNC machine is Non-High frequency or “blowback”. It would definitely be a gamble to install any high frequency based plasma on a cnc machine. High frequency is not good to be close to electronics
I am getting ready to build this same plan - I was thinking of painting the rails to give it some color. Will it rub off as things travel back and forth? Any issue with metal splatter? Any clean up issues you have had?
I was also strongly considering the OpenBuild controller instead of cobbling something together with Arduino. I like your cable connectors though. Any issues with EMI??
Great job
Thanks, no problems with paint rubbing off. I gave the paint enough time to cure before use.
As for issues with metal splatter, I have not had any problems.
I used shielded cables, so no electronic interference issues.
I have no experience with the openbuilds controller. The arduino works perfectly for me. Enjoy your build
I like the z-axis touch-off feature. Is that the same as Torch Height Control? I bought the set of plans but I'm not really sure about THC or if my application requires it.
The z-axis is a probe, not THC, it probes the material and sets the torch height to the proper height you set it for per your torch requirements. THC measures the current and maintains that current by adjusting the height. If your material has a warp or difference in height, THC will pick up on that. JD's garage hasn't released the plans yet for their THC. They are still perfecting it before they release their design.
Have you noticed any issues with painting the Y-Axis gantry? Is the paint likely to flake away, or cause any other issues? Also, how did you ensure that the X-Axis was completely square to the bed?
No issues with paint flaking, I cleaned the metal with acetone before painting. I also gave plenty of time to dry before use.
I squared the x-axis to the frame using several measurements throughout the bed. I treated it like how you level a 3dprinter and adjusted the rail I added. After adding the rail, it was close. It only took a few adjustments to zero in.
Awesome video, great way to counteract the issues with the Y axis issue. I'm in the process of building one myself. They have great plans. I thought I would print your STL file for the board layout, unfortunately my slicer detects 2776 non-manifold edges and will not allow me to print the file.
Thanks, that file I just threw together, not really thinking about sharing. That's the reason it's kind of rough. I can do a more cleaned up version if that would be helpful.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks mate, that's okay on Thingverse they now have the whole range of board holders which can clip onto the rail for junction boxes. How did you go with alignment for the Y axis? In your build you bolt the 3D parts togethor, in the plans they say to first adjust the bearing half to the frame and do not remove after adjusted instead bolt togethor on the Y frame. When I follow their instructions on this I quickly find due to also not being able to source thin material here(Australia) the bearings don't run square which is why I plan to also add the rail like you did on opposite side but before I add it I would like to make sure i get my bearings running true/square.
@burgo856 it was easier for me to have the y-axis put together loosely, and then make my adjustments.
Hello, I spoke to the good folks at J D Garage and they said the bearing idea for the X axis was not the way to go. I want to build a larger table and they recommended another drive motor for the end. Your idea is simpler and cheaper. Have you had any problems with it?
I have no issues at this point. If you are going larger, I would definitely consider what JD'S garage is saying. Weight will be your issue. My build there is such little weight that the linear bearing has no issues. It's only there to keep everything level. What size are you looking at building?
I would like a 4x4 table. Based on what J D and you have said I have ordered an additional motor and driver. It's a little extra money but better to do it right the first time. Thanks for your input, Alan
Hi what kind of software are your using??
@@vb5457 grbl and open-source
Hi, nice video content and editing. I'm looking at building this machine too, and I was considering using aluminum for the floating axis arm like you did. The biggest challenge for me is about electronics and wiring. I don't know what CNC board too chose. Would you mind telling me which motor drivers and cnc controller board you (or JD's Garage) are using please? That would help me a lot. Thank you very much in advance. Cheers
Thanks for the feedback. When you buy the plans, JD'S Garage gives you a complete material list. This includes everything from electronics to bolts and screws. They also give you easy to follow schematics for the electronics.
Hi from Aust. Can you please tell me why mild steel section and not aluminium for the entire frame?
Is it due to cost savings, earthing ? Or to just give it some weight ?
Cheers and very impressive 👍
Combination of everything. Definitely cost. It is a budget friendly build .
Weight and stability using the steel is definitely a plus.
Aluminum is a softer metal than steel. The steel will hold up better with the bearings running on it, especially with the weight of the x-axis. I believe I am goog with the x-axis being aluminum, but time will tell.
1/8” alum is 1.10 lb a ft.
.065 steel is 1.71 lb a ft.
Thank You for your video, it was helpful.
Wonderful video and I plan to build a similar plasma table based on this video, but I wanted to comment and say please don't weld in shorts and a T-shirt. The UV emissions can cause serious skin cancer.
Thanks for the feedback. You are right. I need to do better at wearing my ppe.
Did you usu a 5 or 6 pin relay and how do you have it wired up?I'm having issues with mine.
I have the 6 pin relay, I wired it exactly the way the separate page 6 pin relay schematic drew it up. The main schematic shows the 5 pin relay wiring.
Make sure you are following the lines and not just the schematic. Some connections may be in a different spot on the relay than what the schematic shows. I had someone contact me recently, and that was the issue.
I wish I was smart enough to use freecad don't care for fusion 360 at that point I pretty well shelved it, mine works great just thought I could use other software like with my 3d printer. but I don't no how to to make the entry exit paths
You can use other software like inkscape to create your design. Save it as an svg or dxf file, and then use Fusion 360 only to extrude and create cut files. I can release a video of how I do this if that would help. Once you do it a couple of times, it makes more sense.
@@harbaughsworkshop ya i don't want to use their program due to use restrictions say for instance i need a bracket for work and don't want to go trough the heart ace of making it by hand to save me the Hassel, and a 15 dollar bracket doesn't justify their 600 a year to make 2 brackets a year... the rest would be for personal use, but the lack of due what I want.
if I could purchase the software outright I would do that, but im not paying a subscription i would rarely use . thank you though
@MultiLEGODOG I use Fusion360 free for home use. Just limits the amount of saves you can use.
@MultiLEGODOG just a heads-up, I recently posted a giveaway video on my channel. Chance to win a mig welder if you're interested.
So could this be made as a 4'x4' cnc if there was a rail for the gantry to ride on both sides of the table to eliminate sag? Printing the y axis parts twice and mounting on both sides?
If you created 2 y-axis rails and mounted both sides on a 4' x 4'. I'd add another stepper motor in series to the other side to make sure both sides were running smoothly together.
Gostei muito da sua CNC plasma. Queria muito uma plasma meu sonho
Thank you. It was a lot of fun to build, and I use it all the time
What chop saw are you using in the video?
I am using the WEN CM1452, I added a link in the description if you are interested
Nice project, Joe. Are you interested in using Arccaptain's machine to create videos like this?
Yeswelder!
Hey, how about cutting something bigger than actual working area ( torch reach)? Is there any easy way (function) to do it in parts and moving sheet acording to some marks?
I am sure there is a way. I have never tried before. The most difficult thing would be making sure you are perfectly lined up.
Wow - all those plates n' stuff to cut out! Too bad you don't have a CNC plasma to do it all. 🤣
(I'm still in the 'parts collecting' phas of MY jd's unit - but should start building before '24)
Lol, sad but true. It's an awesome machine.
Nice build. Do you have the link for the Water pan you got from Amazon?
The pan I bought was the 3 BUZZLETT
28" x 30" x 2.5" Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Washer Machine Pan on Amazon
Cómo puedo descargar tus planos ?
Saludos desde Perú
Excelente trabajo
The plans are JD'S Garage plans. They can be purchased from their website
Nice build. Can I ask, what is the flex in the gantry arm like? Those 3d printed parts, are they pretty rigid?
Just watched to the end. I see you had to deal with it by adding that bearing on a rail. Nice solution.
The 3d printed parts are pretty rigid, and yes, I added the rail because my aluminum x-axis added extra weight, and it dropped a 1/8 of an inch while fully extended. The plan calls for a thinner gauge steel. My supplier didn't have square tube that thin.
@@harbaughsworkshopbecause aluminium is light wouldn’t it be lighter? or is the thin gauge steel lighter?
@peejayem4700 I'm not sure, I couldn't get my hands on that thin of a guage steel at my Steel supplier
hi .. thanks for share . if posible to make this table 4' x 8'?
Yes, you can make this 4' x 8' table. You would definitely have to support the x-axis spanning the 4' length. The rail I added should work, but I'd change to a regular bearing or wheel. The linear bearing might have problems with the weight of a 4' x-axis
@@harbaughsworkshop thank you .
Is the Z switch NO or NC? Can''t get my Z working properly thought it may be the wrong switch, but I am pretty sure the plans show NO in the schematic
Do you have the 6 or 5 pin relay?.
The 5 pin and 6 pin wire up slightly differently.
Yes, it is NO on the relay. Some relays the pin configuration is different from the schematic drawing. Double check you have it in NO.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks but referring to the Z axis switch not the torch relay. Everything worked perfectly except for the z touch off it literally travels to the workpiece and crashes into it. Openbuilds show the switch activating but the Z doesn't stop, it just keeps traveling down until it crashes.
@rhinons7353 are you using shielded wire or 2 co conductor wire for your micro switch?
I had the same issue, I switched out the z-axis switch wires with a shielded wire, and my problem was fixed. But yes, the No and common to the micro switch from the arduino. When I get home from work, I will double check know my connection at my micro switch and let you know
I'm just starting my JDs Garage project. Are you using an arduino with openbuilds software? I'm having quite the time trying to flash with grbl. I like the improvements you made.
Yes, I used the arduino uno with open builds. I also added the Bluetooth module.
If you are doing both you need to setup the Bluetooth module first.
Are you doing the Bluetooth module?
When you try to flash the grbl double check and make sure you have Blackbox 4x selected and verify you are on the correct com#
Bluetooth is later when i figure the easy stuff out. Are u using the ardino v2.1.1 version? I've had no luck with the firmware on openbuilds. I did the firmware on ardino but openbuilds won't recognize recognize it. I'd like to do the THC but that looks even more confusing.
Yes, I am running 2.1.1. Keep in mind whenever you do the Bluetooth module it will wipe the arduino, and you will need to refresh again.
Honestly, wiping and reflashing might be the best thing for you to try.
I don't think they released the information on building the THC yet. The z-axis probe works great and wasn't difficult to do.
Do you have any details on the support you made to sit inside the water pan?
I used 3 1/8 2x10 flat bar cut to 29 3/4 lengths. I bent them in the middle slightly using my workbench table, and I then used angle iron on either side to support the slats, I cut groves into the angle iron for the slats to fit into. I did end up welding a 1/2 flat bar to the side of the angle iron to insure a uniform height for the slats.
Thanks for the video. Can I ask what 3d printer you used ??
I used the Creality Ender 5 Plus
How has this held up? Do you think that the X axis could be expanded with your modification with out having any issues?
The CNC has held up great. I believe you could expand with the z-axis support.
Would it be possible to build the whole construction out of aluminium profiles?
I am sure you could, you might have to make some adjustments with the 3d printed parts.
Love your choice of the welder/cutter combo....I just got one as well, but apparently mine is high frequency start and apparently CNC machines dont deal well with high frequency start....did you have to deal with that?
The YesWelder CT2050's plasma cutter is non-high frequency "blow-back" and is CNC compatible, so I get no interference.
@@harbaughsworkshop yah... I didn't get the yeswelder... I got a simder 🫤
great vid just adding support to mine how'd you code in the bluetooth? over in the uk.
Thanks, JD'S Garage has a video that shows the setup for the Bluetooth module. I will try to put together a video showing the changes, add-ons, and upgrades I had done, hopefully soon
Hey buddy excellent video I'm about to start my build now. I was curious because you were 7 and a half inch 2 and a half inch 2 looks way thicker than the one that I purchased. I bought mine at point 125. The reason I ask is this will be my first metal working project and I am new to all this so I'm wondering if I messed up.
You are good, I got I thicker 2 and half inch square tube out of the off cuts at my steel supplier. It still fit nicely over the 2 inch and worked out.
@@harbaughsworkshop hey man thank you so much for the reply. It really helps me out a lot since I don't really know what I'm doing I'm getting pretty nervous with almost everything that I buy in case I'm getting the wrong stuff.
@jonny4182 , don't get nervous. It's a fun build, so enjoy it. If you have questions, ask, and I will try and help. On my channel page, there is a link to my Harbaugh's workshop Facebook. Ask here or send a message on Facebook messenger if you need help
Hi! I recently started building it myself although I will be doing some changes. I see that you've printed it on Ender - any hints on what slicer settings you've made? A had really frustrating time when printing the bearing holders (and I still require 2 more as I will be doing double Y axis). Partially it was because of the poor cheap filament but even with a good one I still had failures and had to tweak the hell out of the Cura parameters like infill pattern, z-hop and what not to avoid knocking the printing nozzle to the part, and I still got significant corner warping without a raft.
I had a .4mm nozzle
.4mm layer height
85%infill
4 wall
6 bottom and top
Having and ender I learned to level the bed before any major print.
Have you tried slower you print speed?
I have since upgraded to the bambu lab x1 carbon. I have reprinted some of the parts because I changed the torch to a machine torch. Much better prints with the x1 and faster.
@@harbaughsworkshop 0.4mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle? Usually people recommend to not go above 80% of the nozzle so I've used 0.8mm for the first time as I never needed more than 0.3mm of layer height.
I've set it to 5 walls and 8 top/bottom but lowered the infill to 65% which seems plenty enough. However, I decided to change infill pattern from grid to lines to avoid scratching of the nozzle on the already extruded perpendicular lines. I never had this problem before. This made the print time longer also due to the z-hop that I also never used before but this time I had issues with too much material around the horizontal bolt holes which even could lead to knocking the stepper motors out of sync and disturbing print coordinates. Or even so much vibration that two of the 4 bed leveling knobs fell off.
I usually print at 70mm/s, this time \i set it to 50. I used glass bed and tried to level it not worse than usual.
After all tweaks the last trial gave not bad part but since I did not add raft to this one all 4 corners had wrapped, still usable but not pretty.
I don't know.. .maybe my Ender is to tired already ;-) During my struggle last week bambu lab crossed my mind hehe. I haven't yet checked too much about it though.
The newer printers are definitely worth it, the speed and quality are awesome.
Do you have a link to the roller bearing that you used with your x-axis bearing holder?
This is the roller bearing i used for the x-axis support
amzn.to/3tJsmq8
Do the plans include the z axis and the code to control it?
Everything you need to build, including the z-axis, is in the plans
Thanks for your response, and with what software does it generate the g code?
Grbl
What about the Arduino sketch , is it available with the plan?
The plans will give you instructions on how to set up and does come with a wiring schematic
So where did you get the software and where the parts pre-programmed to be able to move?
The software is available online. You will have to flash the software to the device. All this is explained, and clear directions are in the plans walking you through the process. Very easy to do.
As a noob to everything CNC, I was wondering what 3D printer you were using? I've been shopping around for one, and all the reviews bounce around like a ping pong ball in a zero-G room! I see units for about $300 that look to be decent, then I see units for $800 that look like junk! I'm just asking a few of the people that I subscribe to what they like to use... and why!
Sorry in advance for the long answer.
In the CNC video, I am using the Creality Ender 5 Plus. This printer was in the $600 range. I immediately did upgrades to a silent board, Capricorn bowden tube, better nozzles, and an all metal extruder. This brought me up over $700. I learned a lot with this printer, and it served me well for years.
I have recently added the Bambu Labs X1 Carbon. When Bambu Labs released this printer, I believe they reset the standard for home 3d printers.
This printer is a true plug and play printer, so much faster and with an amazing print quality, they made bed leveling easy, has the capability of printing most types of filaments including tpu, carbon fiber, etc right out of box. This printer is a bit pricey.
Since the release of the X1, they also released the P1P. The P1P is a stripped-down version of the X1, but it keeps the speed, quality, and auto bed leveling. The P1P is, I believe, under $500 . This year, they improved the P1P with the P1S for around $599.This printer is a mid range between the P1P and the X1.
Creality and Prusa have released their version of 3d printers to compete with Bambu Labs
Creality K1 and Prusa MK4 I have not tested these printers. But the look very competitive.
Just recently heard about the Magneto X by Peopoly that I will keep an eye on.
There are several other printers out there. These are the ones I know about or have been keeping up with.
If I was just starting out, I would lean towards the P1S or the K1. Good price range, fast, auto leveling, great quality prints. Some people are not fans of the K1 software.
Research before you buy, and think about what kind of printing you will be doing. Exotic filaments like carbon fiber require features that standard printers don't also come with.
Hope this helps you out.
@@harbaughsworkshop thanks! I appreciate all the time you put into the response. I hadn't taken a look at the Bambu Labs stuff before, but it looks very nice! I like the P1S, especially with the AMS on it. Not needed for making parts like this, but my wife was looking over my shoulder (and wondering what I wanted to spend money on this time!) then when she saw what it could do with the multi-color filament, she said that there would be a lot that she'd like to make as well! So that may be the selling point for it!
I'm going to order JD's plans, then get started on making the CNC. And it looks like I might be able to make the 3D printed parts myself now! I really appreciate your channel... and the fact that it's not just about tools! Great stuff!
@eddiedee58 I appreciate the feedback. My wife wasn't a fan of the 3d printer at first. I have the AMS on my X1 Carbon. This is what I used to make the Grugu that I put up on my channel.
The CNC is a fun build. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Keep me updated with your build.
@@harbaughsworkshop OK, I am now getting ready to pull the trigger on the X1C! I've looked at all the ones you talked about, along with a couple other units (including the Ultimaker - nice but out of my price range!). My question (and one I asked JD as well) is what material did you use for supports on components that may need it - like the X-axis plate? I assume you used PLA for the parts, but did you stick with PLA (no pun intended!) for supports or did you switch to PETG? I appreciate you taking so much time to help all of us be better at our craft!
@eddiedee58 Thanks to answer your question. I used PLA for all the 3d printed parts. The X1 Carbon is an awesome machine. I am glad I could help.
What's the max thickness you can cut with this? 1/2" ?
That all depends on your plasma cutter
How difficult would it be to make the table 2x as big coding wise etc.?
It's easy, this cnc doesn't have endstops. You can build it to the size you want. You set your zero with the openbuilds software, and you have to keep mindful of the parts your cutting will fit