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My thought is so you can do micro adjustments to the stepper motors to square your CNC. Putting tubes on both sides, you would have to be perfect for you to get square.

Thanks

I will be making some changes to my table soon

Works incredible! I am now looking to make it larger

I put the belt out, so if I need to adjust it would make it easier to get to.

When you open the smoker lid with the switch working, the fan shuts off. Bypassing the switches does work, but the fan would remain on and spike your temperature from the lid being open and the fan feeding the fire. I wanted the smoker to run as it was meant to run. This solution worked, and I only had to do it once. I never had an issue with it since

Awesome, thanks for watching. Let me know how your build goes

Thank you very much!

I went with the aluminum because my steel provider didn't have the thin gauge the plans call for.

So far, the aluminum is holding up with no issues. I do have plans to do some upgrades to the table soon.

You should be fine with the 5 inch stack. I use it all the time. I have 8 butts to smoke this weekend

The plans are JD'S Garage plans. They can be purchased from their website

I have had no issues with the Bauer. it's definitely a good option.

@@harbaughsworkshop did you have to model a different mount for it if so do you have it uploaded somewhere

I used the makita mount files, and they are a perfect fit

Dziękuję bardzo

I used 2 x 1 c channel and 1 inch flat bar to make the bottom lip

@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks! I fabricated today and guessed the top lid lip at 6"??

@@harbaughsworkshop I think you did an outstanding job on this video and your build. thanks, again!

@way1234ne my front lip of the lid is 7 1/2 inches. While using the baffle plates, there is plenty of room for smoking pork butts

@way1234ne thanks, I love cooking on it. At some point, I will be making a charcoal tray that will slip under the cooking grate to cooking burgers, steaks, etc

The plans will give you instructions on how to set up and does come with a wiring schematic

Once you do get around to it you will love it. I use it all the time

I added links in the description

The YesWelder CT2050's plasma cutter is non-high frequency "blow-back" and is CNC compatible, so I get no interference.

@@harbaughsworkshop yah... I didn't get the yeswelder... I got a simder 🫤

Hi, what plasma cutter are you using?

@@harbaughsworkshop Sharman plasma cutter 110

I just looked up your plasma cutter. The Sharman plasma cutter 110 is a high-frequency plasma cutter. You need a non high-frequency plasma cutter for CNC. The high-frequency start messes with electronics

Ok so let's try invest in another one .

I used pla, pla is plenty strong enough. I used it on my plasma cutter CNC as well. Holds up very well.

This one is steel and painted with high heat paint. You can do this with stainless steel.

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks!

Thanks

I use a non high frequency plasma cutter and also use shielded wire

@@harbaughsworkshop what is a shielded wire, can you explain a little

Shielded cables are cables encased in a form of conductive layer. This layer is designed to shield internal conductors from electromagnetic interference

Thanks!

I am sure there is a way. I have never tried before. The most difficult thing would be making sure you are perfectly lined up.

PLA Filament 1.75mm, 1kg rolls.

I had a .4mm nozzle .4mm layer height 85%infill 4 wall 6 bottom and top Having and ender I learned to level the bed before any major print. Have you tried slower you print speed? I have since upgraded to the bambu lab x1 carbon. I have reprinted some of the parts because I changed the torch to a machine torch. Much better prints with the x1 and faster.

@@harbaughsworkshop 0.4mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle? Usually people recommend to not go above 80% of the nozzle so I've used 0.8mm for the first time as I never needed more than 0.3mm of layer height. I've set it to 5 walls and 8 top/bottom but lowered the infill to 65% which seems plenty enough. However, I decided to change infill pattern from grid to lines to avoid scratching of the nozzle on the already extruded perpendicular lines. I never had this problem before. This made the print time longer also due to the z-hop that I also never used before but this time I had issues with too much material around the horizontal bolt holes which even could lead to knocking the stepper motors out of sync and disturbing print coordinates. Or even so much vibration that two of the 4 bed leveling knobs fell off. I usually print at 70mm/s, this time \i set it to 50. I used glass bed and tried to level it not worse than usual. After all tweaks the last trial gave not bad part but since I did not add raft to this one all 4 corners had wrapped, still usable but not pretty. I don't know.. .maybe my Ender is to tired already ;-) During my struggle last week bambu lab crossed my mind hehe. I haven't yet checked too much about it though.

The newer printers are definitely worth it, the speed and quality are awesome.

If you created 2 y-axis rails and mounted both sides on a 4' x 4'. I'd add another stepper motor in series to the other side to make sure both sides were running smoothly together.

I did a quick search to see what I could find on the issue you are having. What I found was that a lot of people point towards the switches. Particularly to the ash bin switch. This does make a lot of sense to me since your smoker works getting to temperature, then stops. That sounds like a bad PID (controller).

I am using the WEN CM1452, I added a link in the description if you are interested

I'm glad to hear. Let me know how your build goes

Thanks, JD'S Garage has a video that shows the setup for the Bluetooth module. I will try to put together a video showing the changes, add-ons, and upgrades I had done, hopefully soon

Thanks, that file I just threw together, not really thinking about sharing. That's the reason it's kind of rough. I can do a more cleaned up version if that would be helpful.

@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks mate, that's okay on Thingverse they now have the whole range of board holders which can clip onto the rail for junction boxes. How did you go with alignment for the Y axis? In your build you bolt the 3D parts togethor, in the plans they say to first adjust the bearing half to the frame and do not remove after adjusted instead bolt togethor on the Y frame. When I follow their instructions on this I quickly find due to also not being able to source thin material here(Australia) the bearings don't run square which is why I plan to also add the rail like you did on opposite side but before I add it I would like to make sure i get my bearings running true/square.

@burgo856 it was easier for me to have the y-axis put together loosely, and then make my adjustments.

The software is available online. You will have to flash the software to the device. All this is explained, and clear directions are in the plans walking you through the process. Very easy to do.

I have not had it tipping. Sometimes, it will move a little, so i will clamp it down

Grbl

The control software is openbuilds

Everything you need to build, including the z-axis, is in the plans

Openbuilds control

Yes and no, the ideal behind the switches is to prevent temperature spikes while the doors are open. Open doors,increased airflow, and fan on would do this. Is it a major deal...no This is why a lot of people do bypass the switches. I did this fix once for this video and never had a problem since, and I use this smoker all year round.

Thanks, yes, when the torch is headed out to the opposite side it starts to sag. Not a lot, but enough to make a difference

@@harbaughsworkshop IF you are using a washing machine pan for your water tray, I believe you can save a few bucks by buying from Vevor, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply. Not sure you are using a washing machine pan, though!

@Halfwheelhell I am using a stainless steel washer tray. I am sure you can find many different trays at different prices. The one from Vevor looks to have a plastic drain. If you were to use that one, I'd replace it with a hose bib or another metal/brass spigot or drain. On my tray, I did add a spigot on the bottom of the tray attached to a 15' garden hose to drain my tray Size was also a factor that isn't a huge deal, but it would change your dimensions

The CNC has held up great. I believe you could expand with the z-axis support.

Thanks for the feedback

Thanks, PLA works perfectly. Follow the settings that is specified in the plans for Infill, wall thickness, etc. The parts are more than strong enough

@@harbaughsworkshop will go with PLA then 😉 thanks for your feedback