Thanks for the video, it was very informative, I do wish you would have actually shown the process of adjusting it with the 5/8 wrench because on mine the locknuts came loose and I'm not sure how to adjust it now.
Great video, and together with your other video where you disassembled the wrench, I have a much better understanding of how this wrench works and how to troubleshoot. Mine is the same model and doesn't click either, but my handle is attached correctly so I'll have to dig deeper. Like yours, it's also many years old and I don't recall if I've ever used it. Since I now need it for something, I'll need to fix it and check calibration. Given that the handle length changes at different settings, and there's only one adjustment for all the torque values, I'll pick a setting in the range I need now and calibrate there. It certainly makes sense to test higher and lower in the range, but I'll need to remeasure the distance to the pivot point at each setting. If the calibration doesn't hold true at all settings, I'll have to pick my desired "sweet spot" and perhaps note it somewhere for future reference. Since I need the higher settings most and have some dumbbells at fixed weights, I may adjust the settings on the wrench to match the weights rather than measure water in jugs. I'll probably start by calibrating to a 15 lb dumbbell which would be 180 in/lbs. Thanks for getting the gears turning!
@@OffRoadEndeavor after watching your video with the same style Craftsman wrench I decided to look at the calibration of its current state. I had stored it at 90 ft lbs and was worried about the spring compression. Long story short I think the tool weight should probably factor in. The weight of my trusty Rapala fish scale showed 1 lb 7 oz at the point where the test weight is applied. This scale has measured within 0.1 lbs compared to a TSA scale so I think it is pretty close. Factoring in the tool weight plus my test weight my torque wrench is pretty close.
The actual torque is the moment of force acting at the wrench handle plus the moment of force of the wrench's weight acting at its center of mass. You can balance the wrench on a straight edge and measure the distance of that point from the pivot point; that is the center of mass distance. The sum of these torques is what your wrench should be indicating.
You skipped over the one thing I had a question on, which is how to remove the end cap on the handle. I don't know if it unscrews or just pops off with a butter knife. I guess I'll find out! 😊
You may want to subtract the weight contribution from the torque wrench. I have this wrench the contribution was measured at 1.06 pounds round off to 1 pound at 12 inch from the pivot.
Thanks for all the work to explain how to find the correct weight based on the desired torque values. Having a longer in/lb torque wrench, in my case 19 inches, how do I calculate the needed weight at a length of 16 inches.
Replace the 12" in my calculations with 16. Your weight will be less since the mechanical advantage of the longer lever is in effect. So for example, my 25in/lbs = @12" x 2.083lbs, your 25in/lbs = @16" x 1.5625lbs.
I bought a craftsman torque wrench exactly like yours and it also doesn’t work at all and the ft pnds gage is on top so I can read the Gaga easily. What needs to be done to it where I could possibly use rather than slinging it down through the woods? Any info would be greatly appreciated
If it's already not working and you're ready to throw it away, taking it apart might be worth seeing what's goin on inside. That was the decision for me. I was going to throw it away anyway, so it was worth a shot taking it apart and seeing if there was something obviously wrong with it. Good luck.
Good explanation, thank you. I do have a question. I have a lb/in torque wrench that is only 12" in total length. So, I found a point 9" from the pivot point. I chose it because it lies at a good point on the handle and the 9" is 75% of the 12". Not being the sharpest knife in the the drawer, how would I then do those calculations. Any help will be most appreciated.
Good question. Just replace the 12" in my calculation with 9", then solve for what weight you need to hang at the 9” mark for whatever torque you are testing at. So if testing for 25 in/lbs, the formula would be 25 in/lbs = 9 in x _?_ lbs, 25/9=_?_, 25 in/lbs = 9 in x 2.777 lbs. So you would need a 2. 77 lb weight to verify 25 in/lbs at a distance of 9".
@@OffRoadEndeavorNO…. you can not just pick an arbitrary distance. Hand position matters when using this style torque wrench. While I applaud your understanding of needing to test several points throughout the range (really only need 3 - at 20%, 40% and 100% of range), you HAVE to use a load point that is set where the manufacturer says your hand should be placed. This is usually the mid point of the handle and is designated by a line or groove on the handle (looks like it’s pretty close to the 12” you chose). The reason for this is because inside the click style wrench there is a pivot point (not the socket head) and a spring clutch mechanism. It is not a simple fixed beam where you can just calculate a load at a distance to get torque. (As a Mechanical Engineer the static torque equations here are interesting and there are a few good videos on this subject by people smarter than me). Anyway, the critical point here is that we are interested in the torque applied at the pivot point that will cause the spring to disengage from the clutch causing the “click”. This torque is actually less than the torque created at the socket head center (if the hand position is correct). Manufacturers calibrate their wrenches to show the correct socket head torque when the torque to disengage the clutch is applied at that setting. Short story: if you change the ratio of distances the manufacturers used to set the wrench (length from force applied to pivot point vs length from pivot point to socket center head) by placing the load at a point other than the center of the handle (or wherever they tell you to place your hand) the actual torque will be different from the torque setting. The equations are actually pretty simple but hard to explain in words. This reasoning is why you must adjust torque setting when using an offset adapter or crows foot.
I have a question, if you zero out the wrench and measure your 12” distance then set the torque wrench at say 70in/lbs isn’t the wrench shorter and your 12” mark is no longer actually 12” from the center of the square drive? From min to max setting the wrench length shortens about an inch
I'm no engineer, but it wont move an inch under adjustment. The pivot points stay at the same locations, the spring tension just changes when the rectangle block has the energy to twist and "click."
@Dirtyaznstyle, yes, with this wrench, you are correct. The handle does move in/out as you change the torque setting. So the point on the handle that is 12" from the square drive will change at different torque settings. I'm not sure how much actual travel there is in the handle though, nor how much of an effect it will have on calibration if you use the same point on the handle as the torque setting changes.
@@OffRoadEndeavor Dirty's correct. What he's saying is that your 12" mark on the handle moves relative to the 3/8" drive as you screw the handle in or out to different torque values. You'd have to find a new 12" mark for every different torque spec that you are testing.
I understand what was was trying to be said. For every one rotation of the handle, the distance from the pivot point out twelve inches will be one thread length different. A fine course thread would move less than a coarse thread. Thus, from the lowest torque setting to the highest would have a different point on the handle, for the same 12" from the 3/8" drive head. Good point. Measure 12" for each setting check. Thanks everyone.
Very interesting observation! If you did the highest setting first at 250 in/lbs and 12" from the pivot point, you would calibrate to 20.83 lbs. BUT, if you had marked your handle at 12" when starting at the lowest setting of 25 in/lbs, when you get to the 250 in/lb point, your mark is only about 11" from the pivot point and you would need to use 22.73 lbs for calibration. Ignoring the change in the handle length will cause a margin of error of up to 8~9% depending on where you started.
Another wrong interpretation of how a torque wrench works. it is not a simple lever arm, and applying the force other than centered on the designated grip distorts the internal flexion of the beam that bends to release the click mechanism.
@@myman5313 You didn't explain why it's a load of crap, but I suspect it's because you didn't understand the process. There is nothing wrong with the OP's approach as it follows Newton's 2nd Law of Rotation. You can say the process is too hard or too time consuming for you, but that doesn't make it "crap". If you're lucky enough to have a digital torque wrench adapter you trust, then maybe you aren't the intended audience for this video and didn't need to comment.
@@myman5313 No thanks, but a dumbbell works great. Plus it's free and I can have it calibrated before Amazon delivers a digital doohickey that basically does the same thing in a microchip.
Thanks for the video, it was very informative, I do wish you would have actually shown the process of adjusting it with the 5/8 wrench because on mine the locknuts came loose and I'm not sure how to adjust it now.
Great video, and together with your other video where you disassembled the wrench, I have a much better understanding of how this wrench works and how to troubleshoot. Mine is the same model and doesn't click either, but my handle is attached correctly so I'll have to dig deeper. Like yours, it's also many years old and I don't recall if I've ever used it.
Since I now need it for something, I'll need to fix it and check calibration. Given that the handle length changes at different settings, and there's only one adjustment for all the torque values, I'll pick a setting in the range I need now and calibrate there. It certainly makes sense to test higher and lower in the range, but I'll need to remeasure the distance to the pivot point at each setting. If the calibration doesn't hold true at all settings, I'll have to pick my desired "sweet spot" and perhaps note it somewhere for future reference.
Since I need the higher settings most and have some dumbbells at fixed weights, I may adjust the settings on the wrench to match the weights rather than measure water in jugs. I'll probably start by calibrating to a 15 lb dumbbell which would be 180 in/lbs. Thanks for getting the gears turning!
Great Video! Very well explained! Something I had always wondered about since there was nowhere around here to take them to to check calibration.
Glad it was helpful!
Wouldn't the weight of of the tool itself hanging off the square drive affect the calibration a slight amount? Thank you in advance and great video!
Interesting thought. This could be a good science experiment.
@@OffRoadEndeavor after watching your video with the same style Craftsman wrench I decided to look at the calibration of its current state. I had stored it at 90 ft lbs and was worried about the spring compression. Long story short I think the tool weight should probably factor in. The weight of my trusty Rapala fish scale showed 1 lb 7 oz at the point where the test weight is applied. This scale has measured within 0.1 lbs compared to a TSA scale so I think it is pretty close. Factoring in the tool weight plus my test weight my torque wrench is pretty close.
The actual torque is the moment of force acting at the wrench handle plus the moment of force of the wrench's weight acting at its center of mass. You can balance the wrench on a straight edge and measure the distance of that point from the pivot point; that is the center of mass distance. The sum of these torques is what your wrench should be indicating.
You skipped over the one thing I had a question on, which is how to remove the end cap on the handle. I don't know if it unscrews or just pops off with a butter knife. I guess I'll find out! 😊
Sorry about that. It is a plastic lug that pushes in, so just use a fine tip screwdriver or small pick to separate it.
You may want to subtract the weight contribution from the torque wrench. I have this wrench the contribution was measured at 1.06 pounds round off to 1 pound at 12 inch from the pivot.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for all the work to explain how to find the correct weight based on the desired torque values. Having a longer in/lb torque wrench, in my case 19 inches, how do I calculate the needed weight at a length of 16 inches.
Replace the 12" in my calculations with 16. Your weight will be less since the mechanical advantage of the longer lever is in effect. So for example, my 25in/lbs = @12" x 2.083lbs, your 25in/lbs = @16" x 1.5625lbs.
@@OffRoadEndeavor Thanks so much for your quick response. Looking forward to being a new subscriber.
I bought a craftsman torque wrench exactly like yours and it also doesn’t work at all and the ft pnds gage is on top so I can read the Gaga easily. What needs to be done to it where I could possibly use rather than slinging it down through the woods? Any info would be greatly appreciated
If it's already not working and you're ready to throw it away, taking it apart might be worth seeing what's goin on inside. That was the decision for me. I was going to throw it away anyway, so it was worth a shot taking it apart and seeing if there was something obviously wrong with it. Good luck.
Thanks a lot - got one I didn’t trust - will fix
The other issue I have with craftsman is the ratcheting heads always strip out. Not the quality they once were.
My wrench was 11 1/4 inch long . I put wrench in vise adjusted to 138 turned the adjuster backwards it broke over at 132 for 11 lbs of weight .
Good explanation, thank you. I do have a question. I have a lb/in torque wrench that is only 12" in total length. So, I found a point 9" from the pivot point. I chose it because it lies at a good point on the handle and the 9" is 75% of the 12". Not being the sharpest knife in the the drawer, how would I then do those calculations. Any help will be most appreciated.
Good question. Just replace the 12" in my calculation with 9", then solve for what weight you need to hang at the 9” mark for whatever torque you are testing at. So if testing for 25 in/lbs, the formula would be 25 in/lbs = 9 in x _?_ lbs, 25/9=_?_, 25 in/lbs = 9 in x 2.777 lbs. So you would need a 2. 77 lb weight to verify 25 in/lbs at a distance of 9".
@@OffRoadEndeavorNO…. you can not just pick an arbitrary distance. Hand position matters when using this style torque wrench. While I applaud your understanding of needing to test several points throughout the range (really only need 3 - at 20%, 40% and 100% of range), you HAVE to use a load point that is set where the manufacturer says your hand should be placed. This is usually the mid point of the handle and is designated by a line or groove on the handle (looks like it’s pretty close to the 12” you chose).
The reason for this is because inside the click style wrench there is a pivot point (not the socket head) and a spring clutch mechanism. It is not a simple fixed beam where you can just calculate a load at a distance to get torque. (As a Mechanical Engineer the static torque equations here are interesting and there are a few good videos on this subject by people smarter than me). Anyway, the critical point here is that we are interested in the torque applied at the pivot point that will cause the spring to disengage from the clutch causing the “click”. This torque is actually less than the torque created at the socket head center (if the hand position is correct). Manufacturers calibrate their wrenches to show the correct socket head torque when the torque to disengage the clutch is applied at that setting.
Short story: if you change the ratio of distances the manufacturers used to set the wrench (length from force applied to pivot point vs length from pivot point to socket center head) by placing the load at a point other than the center of the handle (or wherever they tell you to place your hand) the actual torque will be different from the torque setting. The equations are actually pretty simple but hard to explain in words.
This reasoning is why you must adjust torque setting when using an offset adapter or crows foot.
@@frankhouck4446 thanks for chiming in and providing your knowledge.
I have a question, if you zero out the wrench and measure your 12” distance then set the torque wrench at say 70in/lbs isn’t the wrench shorter and your 12” mark is no longer actually 12” from the center of the square drive? From min to max setting the wrench length shortens about an inch
I'm no engineer, but it wont move an inch under adjustment. The pivot points stay at the same locations, the spring tension just changes when the rectangle block has the energy to twist and "click."
@Dirtyaznstyle, yes, with this wrench, you are correct. The handle does move in/out as you change the torque setting. So the point on the handle that is 12" from the square drive will change at different torque settings. I'm not sure how much actual travel there is in the handle though, nor how much of an effect it will have on calibration if you use the same point on the handle as the torque setting changes.
@@OffRoadEndeavor Dirty's correct. What he's saying is that your 12" mark on the handle moves relative to the 3/8" drive as you screw the handle in or out to different torque values. You'd have to find a new 12" mark for every different torque spec that you are testing.
I understand what was was trying to be said. For every one rotation of the handle, the distance from the pivot point out twelve inches will be one thread length different. A fine course thread would move less than a coarse thread. Thus, from the lowest torque setting to the highest would have a different point on the handle, for the same 12" from the 3/8" drive head. Good point. Measure 12" for each setting check. Thanks everyone.
Very interesting observation! If you did the highest setting first at 250 in/lbs and 12" from the pivot point, you would calibrate to 20.83 lbs. BUT, if you had marked your handle at 12" when starting at the lowest setting of 25 in/lbs, when you get to the 250 in/lb point, your mark is only about 11" from the pivot point and you would need to use 22.73 lbs for calibration. Ignoring the change in the handle length will cause a margin of error of up to 8~9% depending on where you started.
Have you figured out how to calibrate the Digitork which is the bottom wrench in your picture?
No. I did ended up buying Harbor Freight torque adapters, which I am loving!
Wondering does 12" lbs. = 1 foot pound? Mine is graduated in #'s and Nm
That's how I understand it.
Another wrong interpretation of how a torque wrench works. it is not a simple lever arm, and applying the force other than centered on the designated grip distorts the internal flexion of the beam that bends to release the click mechanism.
Thanks for clarifying that. I knew and got focused on the "foot".
Not 100%correct! You need to calculate also the weight of the handle itself.
Thanks for the input.
I think this is all incorrect.
why?
@@audiobrad99 All these measurements crap is just a load of crap. Just use a digital torque wrench adaptor to check the calibration. Done
@@myman5313 You didn't explain why it's a load of crap, but I suspect it's because you didn't understand the process. There is nothing wrong with the OP's approach as it follows Newton's 2nd Law of Rotation. You can say the process is too hard or too time consuming for you, but that doesn't make it "crap". If you're lucky enough to have a digital torque wrench adapter you trust, then maybe you aren't the intended audience for this video and didn't need to comment.
@@audiobrad99 Keep measuring. Use bags of potatoes amd rocks too
@@myman5313 No thanks, but a dumbbell works great. Plus it's free and I can have it calibrated before Amazon delivers a digital doohickey that basically does the same thing in a microchip.