Soundproofing a Wall Using This CHEAP $6 Material!
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- čas přidán 28. 03. 2022
- Green glue noise proofing compound is expensive and ill be showing you a green glue alternative that actually works just as well as green glue since it essentially does the same thing. We've done some test and concluded that you can use a. much cheaper alternative to greenglue and even mass loaded vinyl MLV.
The alternative the green glue is to replace the green glue acoustical compound and not the green glue acoustical sealant. These alternatives works just as good if not better than green glue at a fraction of the cost.
Here are some of the soundproofing material I recommend. These are affiliate links that gives me a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my Channel!
MY AMAZON STOREFRONT - amzn.to/47kB5gr
1. Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound
Amazon - amzn.to/3qIZklR
2. Indoor Carpet Glue 1 Gallon
Amazon - amzn.to/38b6dGf
Home Depot - homedepot.sjv.io/GjYqXB
3. Indoor/Outdoor Carpet Glue 1 QUART
Amazon - amzn.to/3uDksuO
4. Mass Loaded Vinyl
Amazon - amzn.to/36zwZaN
Home Depot - homedepot.sjv.io/yX5OV
Mass loaded vinyl is another alternative to green glue you can use! It does well blocking noise when soundproofing a wall.
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Bear in mind that some of the links in this video are affiliate links, and if you go through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission. Keep in mind that I link these companies and their products because of their quality and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours, and whether or not you decide to buy something is completely up to you.
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This video both full of great info and an excellent example of vibration noise 😆
I drywalled a house with that double layer sound dampening drywall. That stuff really works. You could barely hear someone around the corner. And could not hear someone in a different room.
Awesome!! Thanks for the feedback!
An excellent alternative is butyl acrylic caulk. You don't need to spread it all over, but that's fine. The main areas you want to apply any of this stuff is near (or directly on) any studs; that is where most sound transmission occurs. Essentially what you are aiming to achieve is a mass-spring-mass system; one mass being the building, the other mass is the drywall, and the caulk is the spring.
When you walk down the caulking aisle, there is really only 3 or 4 different products there with many slight variations such as color, curability and durability.
Hey boss, you seem like the perfect guy to ask about my situation. I'm trying to sound proof a 10x12' apartment bedroom for a drum set. To keep the noise inside the room. There are no other apartments on 3 sides of mine, and the fourth side is across the whole apartment, so the main concern is the apartment underneath mine. The bedroom has carpet, and I was going to put down 1/2" foam board, then 5/8" MDF and then a thin carpet on the entire floor of the room, and the drum kit will have another rug underneath it. Is a layer of MLV also needed on the floor or is what I have good enough? On the walls I was just gonna hang 1/2 lb MLV and then use 1/2" fiber sound board with R13 glued on to cover the windows and the door to the room. Will this be enough to block most of the drum noise from going thru the walls and floor to the ppl below me?
Wonder if theres a way to “dilute” the carpet glue so that its less tacky amd more gummy like green glue
Any thoughts on if the Henry 237 Acoustical Tile Adhesive would work as well? Do you know if the Roberts other carpet adhesive would work, like the 2057 or the 7250 which is a cork underlayment adhesive that promotes itself as a very tacky adhesive.
Thank for your advice
It great when you lookout for the consumer!!!!!
Thanks for the feedback! :)
I would suggest installing Sonopan then resilient channel, then quiet rock, in/outdoor carper glue then greenboard 5/8 thick.
There is a black product that is used for drainpipes and roofs to stop leaks which does not go hard. It costs $4 per tube. I wonder if that could be used?
Awesome!! Thanks! I can't find this product where I live, though. What would you look for in a glue to find something that resembles the indoor/outdoor carpet glue (besides elasticity, but that's not even advertised on the Robert's glue packaging/amazon page). e.g. ingredients, use cases other than carpet etc
Can you find 3095 it is very Similar.
Thank you!
Any thoughts on applying the indoor outdoor carpenters glue to MLV to existing drywall with staples and then a layer of 5/8 drywall atop the MLV using drywall screws?
Oh and I guess another layer of carpenters glue on top of MLV before 5/8 drywall and screws too?? Thanks!
That would definitely help make the wall more soundproof!
Why didn’t you compare the Roberts 3095?
Hi, if the goal of using green glue sandwichd between drywalls is dampening then can't we use rubber, cloth,carpet any many other dampening materials between drywalls and get the same result
I feel there is advertising tatctics of this company that makes green glue popular,am I right?
Great tip, its a pitty that these products are pretty local, in Europe there are so many brands...
Ive been looking into this glue alternatives pretty heavily for the past couple weeks. I think the kind of glue you really want to use is Pressure Sensitive Adhesive, as it stays tacky for its whole lifetime according to the instructions, its designed for carpet tiles and the ability to be able to relay the carpet tiles if they get damaged or stained, so the glue dries incredibly sticky 'forever' and is very pliable. Its like chewing gum. If you read this I think its worth having a look into them as it may be much closer to GG than the two glues you have there. I put some on some drywall scrap about 4 days ago and its still very sticky and really soft. It took nearly 2 days to even dry in the thick parts.
What trowel size do you think would be best? Would it be a problem to install it wet with no flash time? I'm hoping it will stay more sticky that way
@stephengorka1161 The flash time lasts days so you would need to install wet yeah, I would/will probably use a 6mm trowel when I do mine. BTW its been more than a month now and the glue is still very tacky and VERY soft and pliable I think its going to be fantastic.
Thanks so much for the reply. I found 5gal buckets of Shaw 5100 pressure sensitive on Facebook for $50. Was thinking I might just be wasting a bunch of extra work for nothing if it didn't help.
@@javbomb what product did you use for PSA? roberts 6280?
I'm certainly no expert in this, but as others I'm looking into an alternative to the green glue. I may just do the double 5/8 drywall and leave it at that. But I do wonder about other products as well. My mind has thought of some sort of rubber strips, tape rolled so it sticks to itself, rigid foam board strips, and drywall strips
WHAT DID YOU DECIDE TO DO? THERE'S NOT A LOT TO BE DONE BETWEEN 5/8" OF GYPSUM LAYERS THAT WILL MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN 'LOW' FREQUENCIES....STILL WORTH A TRY IF THE PRICE IS RIGHT!
How about Grip-Rite® Acoustical & Sound adhesive?
Thanks for this. I was getting ready to spring for the GG, but now I will do this instead. Question: is it important when putting up the second layer of drywall to make sure the seams are staggered vs the first layer? And I should definitely use 5/8" for the second layer, correct?
Thank you.
You don’t need to stagger them if you use green glue. Make it easier on yourself. And yes, 5/8” drywall is the way to go!
A followup question please. So are you saying a layer of regular 5/9" drywall with the carpet glue applied would give a similar result to using the soundproofing drywall product? Thanks
@@cb7963 I don't think Green Glue should be called a 'SoundProofing' product. It 'dampens' if I understand correctly. It adds a small improvement to a well thought out system. Like 5% better? 10? How did your build work out? I"ll start my drywall in a couple months. Two layers of 5/8" gypsum on IsoMax clips and RC. I don't think it's worth the extra time and effort because the green glue or similar damper will not likely help with the lowest frequencies anyway.
Would the indoor-outdoor carpet adhesive work effectively in place of Green Glue SEALANT, or is there another (or better) alternative to the sealant? I'm very new to all of this and am curious on my options when caulking the perimeter seams when installing MLV.
Absolutely not.
How many drywall sheets does a gallon cover?
Hi. I want to be able to talk (at normal volume) without people in other rooms hearing. What would you advise? I am considering making a small 3x3x3 foot cube out of cardboard (sufficient for me to sit in), and covering the inside with acoustic foam. I can also add household blankets over my box. What do you think? Also from what I heard the foam needs to be absorbing, right?
Great question. Usually to have an effective way to soundproof high frequency noise (Your Voice) would be to add mass. Cardboard and sound deadening material wouldn't be effective BUT in your case it just might be since you're just going to be. You wouldn't be completely getting rid of the sound of your voice but you sure would be muffling the sound which just might work. One thing you could add to actually create mass within that box is a product called Mass Loaded Vinyl "MLV" which would work better at blocking the sound pf your voice rather than just deaden it. Here's a link to MLV from Amazon - amzn.to/3iQ4Grh That link will give you 16 sq feet of MLV. Hope this helps!
@@soundproofguide Hi. Thanks for your reply mate. I found a different one for the UK. 2mm thick, 5kg/m2
It says it has an "insulation value of 24 dB" "when the soundproofing mat is hung a curtain". Does that mean it would block more sound as a box?
Do you think 2 layers (insulation value of 29 dB) is sufficient to virtually block my voice completely?
One last question. If I put 2 layers, is it best to put one layer outside the cardboard box? Or both inside?
Isn't it also about decoupling?
It seems to me that you'd get better sound loss by not spreading the glue across the surface. Having thin air pockets in multiple regions of the drywall would be areas where the vibrations wouldn't couple well to the next board. Green glue is probably soft enough that you need a lot of it for strength, but maybe with carpet glue you could get away with less.
Great point. I would think the green glue itself would dissipate the vibrations rather than the air pocket.
To have an effective air void to treat low frequency noise would be an air void that is completely disconnected from the joist, like Resilient Channel "RC". If the drywall screws goes through the RC and into the joist, low frequency noise will come through because you've reconnected the wall to the joist, it has to be decoupled to be effective. Great question, thanks!
@@soundproofguide the official instructions for Green Glue say you need to make a random pattern btw
I’m assuming for the air pockets as well
Their marketing basically says the Green Glue transfers the sound horizontally and prob the small air pockets are what keeps it from continuing to transfer across the drywall
Basically if you applied it evenly you would couple the drywall together completely 🤔
@@soundproofguide If I understand right, 'low frequencies' are going through drywall into the noise, regardless of whether the RSIC cops and RC screw is incorrectly hitting the joist. I"m going to use IsoMax with RC and two layers of 5/8? gypsum. I am assuming that Green Glue is NOT worth the extra expense since I am investing in better options. Do you agree? Thanks for the vid!
@@dylan-nguyen (UPDATED! In further thought, the air pockets make all the difference!) Without actual experience, gleaning from what I've read, the sparse, random application serves mainly as a shock absorber for, I suppose, low-frequency soundwaves. The Green Glue manufacturer terms the quality "viscoelastic damping" In that sense, the air pockets serve no purpose. UPDATE! HAHA! That last sentence is completely wrong. On further thought... he sparse application is just to assure the two boards have no place of direct contact. And if you were to spread the same amount evenly, as @Soundproof Guide suggests, that could be a problem because you'd be greatly thinning and diminishing the viscoelastic damping quality, UPDATE! AND to essentially create flexible bubbles out of the air pockets. If that's true, then the same would apply to the suggested alternative -- indoor carpet glue. HOWEVER, a problem with indoor carpet glue -- unlike Green Glue, which has been tested and proven to never (or extremely slowly) cure to solid, and thus maintain its viscoelasticity over the long-term -- is that its doubtful that indoor carpet glue has been considered or tested for its sound isolation or long-term viscoelastic qualities. I personally, therefore, would not experiment with indoor carpet glue as an alternative -- its long-term viscoelasticity (its sound dampening ability) is neither tested or guaranteed, and over time, you could just wind up with a thicker wall -- no sound dampening in between. Given these non-expert ASSUMPTIONS, UPDATE! I WAS going to use a sparsely placed rubber gasket material as a much cheaper alternative to Green Glue. However, given the new insight that sparsely spread Green Glue actually produces shock absorbing air pockets, I'll be going with Green Glue. This is for a sound isolation booth, so to assure no leakage out of the sides of the joined panels, I'll tape the full thickness of the sides as well. Doing this will hopefully also serve as a sound dampening agent when walls are joined at the booth corners, top and bottom.
For anyone reading, I updated my original comment in this thread where I indicated the air pockets created by Green Glue serve no purpose. In fact, they ARE the purpose. Along with the viscoelasticity of Green Glue, the air pockets form flexible bubbles that can expand and contract as necessary to effectively shock-absorb sound vibration. Given that air pockets are a primary and necessary component to the effect of Green Glue, spreading Green Glue evenly is a HUGE mistake. It truly is the tested viscoelastic quality of Green Glue that makes it a special kind of sound absorber. Sure the formulation is probably quite simple and the product, therefore, shouldn't be so damned expensive -- just some kind of agent that allows the glue to only dry to a certain elastic consistency -- but that's inventiveness, entrepreneurship, marketing, and capitalism for ya... take advantage when you can.
Just asked ChatGPT if Green Glue was patented: "Yes, Green Glue is patented. It was invented and patented by the company Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics in the early 2000s as a way to improve soundproofing in buildings. The patent number is US 6,387,808, and it covers the specific formula and use of the compound as a sound damping material." Pfff... The poor man's formula: the perfect ratio of mineral oil to indoor carpet glue that doesn't lose the gluificationalistic ™quality yet gives that magical viscoelastic quality, mixed EXTREMELY well... VOILA! Beige Glue. 😁
What about using something like hydroban liquid membrane instead? It comes in 5 gal and seems to be a better bang for the buck
That might also work! I’d have to look into it. You can also buy the 4 gallons of the stuff I used in this video for around 40-50 bucks.
Green glue does not reduce sound transmission. It reduces resonances and dissipates energy by a concept called 'constrained layer damping'.
What do you think, there’s cheaper carpet adhesive? Is a comparable alternative?
@@GregoryGuay Any adhesive that has viscoelastic properties when cured basically works. We mostly use a contact adhesive based on neoprene, not brand specific. The stress/strain phase shift does all the heavy lifting.
How about silicone?
I design and build recording studios and can assure you it works !
I think one of the most confusing things I see from consumers is people confusing Green Glue Adhesive vs Green Glue Sealant (as well as other acoustic sealants), and then keep wondering why it doesn't work.
Try roberts 3095 I think it stays more pliable then 6700
which do you think is better for Soundproofing? Taking durability into account
I don’t see any specifications for playability… Do you know this from personal experience?
Thabk you for the video. J'ai dla misère a savoir si tu cache bien ton accent quebecois ou si tu les pas.. mais merci quand meme
Ah you’re welcome! Je ne suis pas du Québec mais tout près! Et oui, il y a un accent là! 😊
Moi, j'ai aussi pensé la même chose...p-t un acadien ou d'Ottawa. J'adore l'accent en tout cas.
did you test foam or common cheap floor underlay?
Foam does nothing for STC.
I have to disagree with this video. You don't want to trowel on Green Glue. The directions specifically say not to do this. Where are the verified lab tests for Carpet Glue? I hate to say this, but so many people come to me saying they are using carpet glue to soundproof without any scientific proof that it works. Show me the lab tests and I will believe it too.
Have to slightly disagree,,, its not the sheetrock. Sure the sheetrock manages noise at mid and high freqs but does nothing for the lows. Thats where the green glue does its job in combination with the sheetrock. Oh,, dont trowel it! Just squirt it all over.
Spend the money for Green Glue it really works well.
If you follow his advice and spread the green glue evenly, you just destroyed the entire effects of it.The point is the air gaps absorbing soundtransmission between the glue. That's just bad advice. That's some pretty costly poor advice to put in your video. You really should first understand how everything works before you discuss it.
If you’ve ever used “Green Glue”, you’d know that it makes no difference. Give it a try.
@Soundproof Guide I do use it. That's how I know you're wrong. If you spread it evenly, you'll reduce the gap between the panels, allowing for more sound transmission.
Also (especially when using something like Quietrock), the gaps in the glue allow the soundwaves to bounce between the streams of glue, allowing them to dissipate.
This is a bit useless without testing data