Body Working The Perfect Gaps: The GUIDE Part 1 Metal Work
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- Perfectly Gaped body panels add a whole new level to your body work. In part one we go through the metal working behind getting your projects gaps to almost perfect. In part 2 we will be showing you how to use your body filler to really dial those gaps in. Remember to continue to learn and share what you know. We will see you next week.
#Sylvesterscustoms #sylvestercustoms
Social Media Links:
Filmed and Produced by Blown Grit Productions (Mike):
/ blowngrit
Sylvester's Customs Instagram:
/ sylvesterscustoms
Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
Vendor Links:
Auto Metals Direct ( Best replacement body panels in the biz)
metaldirect.com
/ autometaldirect
Linear Stretching Hammer
/ 20_by_20hotrods
Video Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:40 Preparing your panel
2:41 Gapping tool we use
5:55 Grinding panel edges
9:30 Welding your panel edges
21:16 Facing (grinding) your panel Edges
29:03 Correcting the shrinkage caused by welding - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you for doing these videos. Your the first paint/body channel I’ve found that’s done by a professional who knows what they are doing and doesn’t have ego issues. Your videos are so helpful!
Thank you very much
Great info Travis! Nice work. Thanks for the love
Thank you!!
There aren't a bunch of videos out there like these, you are helping a lot of people with their projects, good job!
Thank you we hope so!!
Your videos are going to put trade schools out of business lol, best channel on the web, can't wait for more , your followers are so grateful for your passion and service to us
Love comments like that. Thank you very much!
You are a great teacher. Please keep the videos coming. Thank you!
Thank you! Will do!
Great information again. I love my aluminum yard stick before finding sandpaper. It gives me a roadmap to help me create a plan. You gave us good rules to remember or re-learn. If anything, never grind 18Gauge to 20Gauge or 21.5Gauge. Alway 0.23” wire on MIG just hot enough to penetrate and trigger control. Files on metal work one way, look how they are made. If you don’t have a gap-tool, think a metal compass as these have screws. Dividers are metal pointers with one pivot. Use you compass set to find the gap.
I can’t wait for the next one! Like or your money back. Me, I watch 3 or four times to save to memory, exercise the brain! Thanks Travis!!!
Thank you!!!
I really like this content. Thanks for taking the time to create... I'm subscribing.
Awesome, thank you!
You Guys are putting out The Best info and Tips of all ..and yr Work is Unmatched ..Keep it going ,,can’t wait for the Nest one Guys
Much appreciated
Great job!! Travis
Thank you 👊🏻👍🏻
the diving edge from panel to panel,,"pullowing" no clue who told me that,,great vids!
Haha I like that!! Thank you!
Very impressive and thorough. The stretching hammer was very cool.
Glad you liked it!
Very detailed, thank you for sharing your knowledge
My pleasure!
Big thanks for teh video
Thank you 👍🏻
Excellent
Thank you Gary!!
Great vid!
I love all the tips you share!
Especially about the file only in cutting direction.
I learned that 40 years ago in metal shop, pulling back over the surface also work hardens the material, making the next pass that much harder.
I would love to see you do a short video on filling bodywork trim holes.
I am doing a '55 sedan, changing it from a 210 to a 150 body style and eliminating most of the trim holes.
The cooling air is genius, I have used a damp cloth in the past, then dealt with the rust.
Thanks!!
Thank you!
Another great video. Thanks for all the great info.
Thank you!!
Great vids… lots of useful info!!
Thank you!!
Amazing stuff Travis. Appreciate you sharing your tips, tricks and knowledge. Cheers from Australia.
Much appreciated. Thanks watching. .
Outstanding instruction!😎
Glad you think so!
another great video, filled with great & well thought out information
Thank you!!
brilliant work as always explained so well
thank you
You’re welcome Osvaldo, thanks for watching!!
Thank you thank you so informative. 👍
Thank you!!
Hey Travis I love watching your videos and learning. I appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge with people like me who just want to know the right way to do restoration work.
My pleasure!
Where I came from clothing wire hanger was used to fill out the bigger gaps because was the most accessible and easy to find, guess what: I'm still using it lol , I always learn something with you ,love the detail on your videos, is what makes it interesting, keep up bro.
Much appreciated. Not going to lie back when I first bought a Tig welder I didn’t have filler rod so I was sacrificing coat hangers to try the machine out 🤣
All good, solid and relative information. Well done my friend. That's the "know how" people wanna "know how" to do. Fix them hot welds boys. That's funny. That's exactly what I did too.. 😈👍
Thank you very much.
Another great video Travis, i am currently door gapping a 2nd gen camaro and found your video extremely helpful looking forward to next weeks video thx again
Thank you for watching!
Perfect timing Travis! guess what I was doing today before I sat down to watch this LOL. But handy to learn about the Linear Shrinking hammer trick to remove excess shrinkage, I took the 1 inch at a time route of course, if only i had more patience, Great video as always!
Thank you!!
Another great video Travis. Your videos have been very helpful with my project. I’m currently restoring a 81 K5 Blazer that I have had for several years now. I have been into this project about a year and a half. I have already gapped the doors at the metal stage but need to straighten back out the edges. Can’t wait for your next video on how to finish bodywork the edges. Keep up the good work, I’m watching,
Thank you very much !
To help with possible warpage, have you considered using Silicone Bronze mig wire. You can use lower heat settings and it is also easier to grind, because the wire creates a softer weld.
We’ve used it. I’m not a fan. It just doesn’t hold up as good. Especially when you have a rusty lower door seam it doesn’t weld good.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS get rid of the rusty area before welding.
Hey Travis! you have a very informative channel and you speak english very clearly my friend! If you dont mind i think that the reason you have a very hard and sometimes breaking mig weld is because you force cool it with air. I always take my time and let it cool slow and never had these issues. I hope that helps you! keep on!!!
Thank you very much. I agree with you. However the more we get into metal work and shaping tig or gas welding is superior in strength. I feel like Mig welding has its place for sure. All I’m saying is you can manipulate and stretch a TIG weld much easier. It is a lot softer of a material and you’re getting a lot better penetration. There are some other mig wires out there that are softer but there’s a give and take they don’t weld as good. Anyhow thank you for the comment 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS tig is my next personal bet! i hope you make a video and help!!!
@@rustypunkclassics1960 we will be hopefully in the new year we will hit the ground with a bunch more stuff
subscribed and thank you , righteous teachin' there Missa
Thank you!
excellent information as usual can you show the best way to mark the hinges so they go back in the location thanks
We just put out a video on that just a week or two ago 👍🏻
Great info!! Big fan!! Awesome shirt!! Lol
Hahahahahahahahahahaha I promised you I’d rock the shirt buddy 😘
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I’ll need to buy a couple of your shits and see what trouble I can get in to !!
@@MMFH_LIFE I thought I got you a shirt no? If not txt me
Thanks for the file info too
You're welcome!
Great video. Very informative. What brand hammer are you using with the dolly? Thanks and keep up the great work.
We talk about that at the end of the video and info is in the description. Thanks for watching the channel.
There is often surface rust or contaminates inside the pinched edge when not using a brand new door. Doesn't that cause issues with TIG?
It def creates a challenge. I usually trim the door and pull door off so I can try and control the Tig better plus off the car you can prep the surface better.
Awesome tutorial..thanks for sharing your knowledge & expertise. I must have missed it but what is point of the blue fluid you spray ahead of scribing..guide coat?
Helps you see the scribe mark
Well, that answered that question! Got to go get me a stretching hammer!
A normal body hammer will also work
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
I took a spare panel hammer I had and welded a lug of round bar to it… sculpted it to shape and hardened it. Works great!
Superb, very professional presentation, and I wonder if there might not be another way to cool the welding points by attaching the air blower, for example, permanently connected to the MIG torch. Have you ever tried it? Or may this be too cool after all. Cheers from Geneva Switzerland
Thank you We have not. If you are to fast it will blow the weld off if it’s still glowing
Really enjoy your videos thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us. I do have one question, I have a 50 Chevy truck and see videos where some people cut a gap in the cab in front or back of the door and tap it closed to enlarge the door gap. Is there a reason to do one over the other?
Thank you. Extending the door is much easier than the cab.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS my issue is the opposite, the gaps are too tight all around. Would it still be best to trim the door in this instance? Thanks again!
@@Rickybobby807 absolutely 👌🏻
Travis did my first door front and back edges and it came out pretty decent! I started off with essentially no gaps and now have pretty uniform gaps. One question do you round the edges over at all or keep them sharp. Could not have done it otherwise.
Thank you so much for sharing with everyone.
@@Rickybobby807 I take a DA with 80 grit and round them so it looks factory. Awesome glad you liked the video.
What size might wire are you using
.030
Have you ever used house of kolor kda primers? If so would you recommend it as a good all around primer?
I have not sorry
I have a question about doors gaps or body panels in general...how do you know which side to slice or grind down?..wouldn't that make the panel off or noticable?
If the edge is flanged then you just pick whatever side is modifiable. Every car will be different.
Ok Thanks for your time to respond..Keep up the good work!...I actually just started welding school recently and started learning today..I'm excited to get good so i can install the floor pans I have for the Monte Carlo and weld some patch panels for the fenders.
If you think going back and forth with a file dulls it, go watch Fireball Tool's video "I filed backwards 2500 times and this happened"
Myth about file dulling on backstroke, proven by fireball tool on CZcams with a video and machine jig no factors other than forward stroke with or without backstroke
The totality of the information is fantastic but the execution of the video is a bit lacking. Almost 0 tight shots on the welding process really hinders those trying to understand what you’re doing. A small camera set tight on what you’re doing would really help out. Appreciate all you do, but just a friendly suggestion for those of us out here learning. Thanks!
We are doing our best with what we have. We couldn’t get in tight with our camera it will burn the lense inside the camera. We need a different lense set up. That’s why we haven’t done tig videos yet.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Totally understandable. Tough to do this when you are a two man production “company” 😜
I can get a little picky since I’ve been in production business for 35 years.
A heavy ND filter or even an old weld helmet lens taped or mounted in front of the lens will allow arc shots without damage. Of course you’d need a second camera to do it as one shot or stop down and shoot cutaway shots of the arc shots and edit them in.
Again really appreciate all the great content.
Why would you fill the gap on the trunk with mud? Never seen that in forty years of doing bodywork. Seen like a huge waste of time to have to clean it out of the gap.
You are missing the point here. We’re not filling the gap with mud? The plastic spacer keeps the mud out and if you did your metal work correctly it’s made of metal not mud. Just because you haven’t seen it doesn’t mean that’s how the industry standard does it in show cars and mirror finishes.