Avoid costly mistakes: OEM vs After Market Panel Replacement : Spot Weld Removal
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2023
- Are you looking to replace a panel on your car but not sure which route to take? In this video, we'll compare OEM vs aftermarket panel replacement and help you make the best choice for your car!
We'll cover the different options for keeping and replacing panels and explain the pros and cons of each route. We'll also show you how to remove spot welds and the tools we use to limit damage. Finally, we'll compare OEM vs aftermarket panel replacement and give you an idea on which route is best for you!
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Filmed and Produced by Blown Grit Productions:
/ blowngrit
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/ sylvesterscustoms
email: SylvestersCustoms@yahoo.com - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I’ve just watched this video with great interest. Just starting to repair my 1971 Herald convertible body tub with some factory panels that I’ve collected over recent years. Watching this has enthused me as I now feel that I can repair the existing panels where no originals can be obtained. I can use the new OE panels as the overall guide using Clecos and panel screws. Such a clear video has given me confidence to practice and undertake this work. Thankyou very much from the UK.
Awesome!! Very glad it was helpful
Best bodywork videos I've seen on youtube. Please keep sharing you wisdom!
Thank you! Will do!
Welcome back Travis. I'm the metal,body,fiberglass,paint tech at Mustangs to Fear in addition to starting my own shop. I work with these old Mustangs everyday. From what you're explaining, this would be a prime candidate for a new shell. Granted, we've had customers over the years who are a hard sell when they've already overpaid for an original trainwreck. I'm always up for a challenge and yes, you can build these from scratch but from a financial standpoint for around 25k you can get a 100% rust free new shell. This car needs crushed. Sure it can be rebuilt but once the labor bill starts to climb, our customers usually come back and say, " I probably should have got a new body". But they're in too deep to turn back. We recommend this for their benefit to speed up the build and save them money. Also to get all clean metal. Cars like this cease to be the original car when you're replacing 90% of the metal so the bragging rights of having an original are kind of a mute point. Sometimes it's best to let them go. As far as aftermarket vs. OE, I've had to do the same modifications with a.m. to set panel gaps so I wouldn't hesitate to use a.m. on these. One tip. When I make new plug weld holes in my new panels, I try to slighty offset to the original location to avoid welding to thin backing metal. It's recommended on late model repairs also(within reason). Thanks for the video. And remember, screws are your friend.
I agree. I always try and steer my customers in the route of most cost effectiveness. However my customer spent a lot in acid dipping and we’re going to move through it in a timely manner. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻👍🏻👊🏻
Nothing more to say that has not already been said! I’m starting my first restor soon and been following you channel! I’ve got a note pad with notes on where to go back and revisit a vid to gather info! Thank you very much for showing and explaining ways and tools to use and completing work on a level for a beginner. A viewer for life!
Awesome! Thank you! We’re happy you like them.
Man, there are a verbal lesson on bracing, measuring, locating and great spot weld removal tips. Now several ways 😮. Great video lesson.
Glad it was helpful!
Im starting my first major sheetmetal replacement resto. Started as a floor patch and some window channel. Now it's a quarter panel, inner and outer wheelhouse, trunk extension, trunkfloor, and floorpan, too!! It was going to just be a restomod, but then realized it was actually a rare 1 of 25 car that deserved a stock resto, hence going all out on it. So the tips like doing full assembly before welding, and snd using brackets for alignment are priceless!! Love the channel and find I learn somthing everytime I watch!!!
Thank you so much!
I came across a bug body a guy was selling as he was building a beach buggy, and the front corner was knocked in. I bought aftermarket panels and fitted them up and then quickly realised that this was way above my skill level. So now i am a new follower of your channel. I'm doing a front quarter replacement on a super bug now, and its like you say, do the small things first and build confidence. I'm 55 and wish i could have done this when i was 25! From Sydney 🇦🇺 thanks for making this series.
Awesome good luck just do one bite at a time 👍🏻
Nice thorough video for beginners and as a refresher for experienced builders. You cover a few interesting tools I think I need too!
Glad it was helpful!
First, thanks for always putting out great content. I have a small 2 person full build hotrod shop and I have been through a lot of air saws and die grinders. I finally spent the money on a snap-on saw and 3/4 hp angle die grinder and a Matco angle die grinder. Probably the best money I ever spent that has sped up my productivity. I know that there is a lot of controversy about over pricing and there’s some things that are just not worth it. I have many drawers of tools that didn’t come out of a tool truck but I really feel like it you’re doing a lot of metal work, it’s well worth the investment. Thanks again for great content. It’s always fun to see how other people do things!
Well… looks like I gotta find me a local tool truck thank you for sharing!
Your other videos are really good and thorough, great learning. This one………..man, you blew it out of the ballpark!! A ton of great info explained in terms anyone can understand 👍👍 and thank you for calling a rosette weld a rosette weld and not a spot weld 👍
I appreciate that!
Just restoring 1968 Mustang GT fastback. My first restoration ever. Removing floor pans right now to weld new ones. I can tell that very easy way to find spot welds is wire wheel to remove everything on the top of spot welds and then using the double ended spot weld cutter from Amazon. Yes, I'm using classic center punch tool (spring loaded doesn't do the work) for making a mark in the middle of the spot weld and after that the tip of the spot weld cutter will have a guide. To keep it from walking is super easy. I just run the drill and continue pushing a little on the spring loaded spot weld cutter to have a little bit of contact with the metal, it start biting slightly and when it makes a circle where spot weld is you just continue to increase pressure. This way it makes its guide and doesnt walk away anymore. Also, drill in the stages and check continuously so you dont drill through both metal panels.
Tried few other spot weld drill tip but didnt find anything that would work as good as double ended spot weld cutter.
Some rusty places dont show spot welds so I put wall scraper (I have one from HDX that have sharp edge from HD, but cant see it anymore on website) between panel and find spot weld with this. You separate panels as long as there is an area that sticks and dont allow panels to separate. There is a sport weld there.
Can you make a video about how to check for alignment in a car? (engine bay, .... other)
Thanks for the video, very helpful
Possibly in the future. You just need to put the whole thing together and make sure everything lines up and fits flush before welding anything.
So I checked and the scraper I use is Anvil 1.5 in. Stiff Steel Paint Scraper for $6.98 in HD. It has sharp edge and is very stiff so its very good for initial panel separation. After that comes Eastwood panel separator, these days offered only in kits of 3 (duifferent variants). They still have 90deg version of it - Seam buster.
Thanks for the great video! I've got a full quarter and inner front-fender on my '72 Challenger restoration. Took nearly a year to get an undamaged panel to show up.
Crazy times! 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Great video!! I've been using Blair Spot weld cutters for years on my projects. They do a great job of cutting the top panel without damaging the lower. The cut weld holes are very clean and usually break free without too much effort.....most of the time..
Thank you!
best videos out there carefully explained and well made simply the best
Wow, thanks!
Believe it or not..I've watched this episode a few times and i caught something new this time..man that's crazy lol .I guess that's why I watch a few times to absorb everything
Thank you very much we try and pack a lot of key details that a lot of people don’t pick up on until they’re potentially facing that issue at hand. Just trying to save somebody the headaches that we have learned the hard way.
Awesome and informative video. Thanks for all the info.
Our pleasure!
Awesome Job !!
Thanks!
Excellent information in this video. It really is giving me more confidence to tackle my 75 Firebird restoration. My background is body/exterior product engineering, so I have a lot of exposure to body design, structural analysis, and body manufacturing. The key difference with restoration is now I am the one doing the labor, and that is an entirely different skillset (as opposed to placing fresh new panels in a jig, and having 6-axis robots do the welding). Thankfully for me, my Firebird is enough of a challenge for a beginner/intermediate, and nowhere near as involved as your Mustang project (that still looks quite daunting). But as you said, break down your project into small chunks, and tackle small sections at a time. That is the best way to wrap your head around it.
Good luck with your current projects, and I will be staying tuned to your channel for more knowledge bombs!
Thank you !! Good luck in the firebird
Don't use this guy's spot weld cutter to cut spot welds because you'll always end up with a hole through the bottom structural panel that must be addressed later. What you do for best results is use a die grinder with a rounded type of bit ( and a magnet to clean up the metal chips) . With a die grinder , you only chew up metal on the panel you want to remove, and you leave the sub structure intact with no hole to plug later. Once you've chewed up enough of a panel's spot welds, you can separate the panels gently tapping with a hammer and a flat blade screw driver. This is best because some spot welds are double welds and elongated , so this guy's spot welder won't work...but a die grinder will. Also, when you are separating the panels, you won't have to mangle the sub-structure when you have too much spot weld left that won't break free. For premium results, if your panel is not too bad, you can remove it, put it on a jig and make repair sections by hand...weld them in so you can have access from the backside which is crucial if you want your repair to last. When you weld the repair sections in, you will NOT use a mig-welder, you will gas weld them in with a 00 tip, and then forge the welds and metal finish the area. This means no-filler, and body panels where the repair areas are at the same gauge as the rest of the panel...which IS important because if you have differing thicknesses of metal where a repair section joins an un-repaired section, then you will likely be covering it with body filler and the differing frequencies of vibration between the weld and adjacent surfaces will cause the body filler to telegraph the seam underneath over time. You can also seal the lower seams on welded on panels by sweating in 30/70 lead. I suppose what I have said is a little higher end than this guy is presenting. Bottom line...body work is NOT easy and should be done by a pro.
Looking forward to upcoming videos from you. Thank you!
We have one coming out every other week is the goal. Thx for watching
No Hackery allowed! Love it! Nice work you guys do.
Yes! Thank you!
Wow I feel better about my botched 240z now. Thanks for the content.
🤣🤣🤣 glad you feel better
Maybe do a short video on how to properly seal up a new peice of bare sheet metal patch from rusting after welded in.
Best tool to use is a n undercoat gun with a wand. Get into any access hole you can with epoxy followed by cavity wax later.
I’ll put that on the list for future videos!!
Hi Sylverter, you explain everything very well. Your videos are always the most informative and professional on the internet in my opinion. You always ask to leave comments on topics for future videos. In your video you talk about laser alignment on the Mustang, i would like you to explain to us how you go about taking your laser alignment measurements or other methods.
I have a twisted car and I don't really know how to go about it. Thank you so much.
Thank you I’ll keep that in mind 👍🏻
Thank you
My Bluepoint body saw has lasted almost 25 years. And I rarely even oil it (even tho I know I should.) But, the IR low vibration saw is nice. My IR 5" grinder didn't even last a year.
Welcome back. You were missed.
Thank you means a lot
Here we go!! 💥 💥
😎👌🏻🙌🏻
Air chisel with a very sharp carbide chisel! I wasn’t able to find one anywhere but made one myself a few years ago. I’ve used it on every spot weld. I’ve done on the past 15 cars I’ve redone over 7,000 spot weld removed and I’ll never use anything else again
I need one!
Brillante, gracias
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
great video , I'm really dying to see you get into that 61. I've got a 61 bubbletop , rustiest thing I've ever dragged home, both quarters and Flor pan , trunk pan need replacing. I've got the 1 piece floor pan and a 62 trunk pan , due to them not making a 61 version, but the quarters I was stuck on until I spoke to a friend who just did his 61, he picked up a 61 4 door and used the quarters and rear door skins to fabricate the parts he needed to make basically the whole quarter , that's the path I'm taking on mine , anyway just a tidbit I picked up I thought I would share , not sure if the 4 door roof is the same as your sedan roof but if you need and parts just shout . thanks again for the video and for sharing your expierience
Right on! Thank you. So far we are good I’m making most of it work repairing each panel one by one on the 61. We will be posting more on that project soon on instagram & facebook.
Super useful presentation! Could you please comment on this question: If you have to do a lap joint or rosette welds and can only tig weld, is there anything for rust proofing you can put on the surfaces before welding? I have tried zinc weld thru primer and that was a total splatter disaster, and regular primer or rust converter seems to burn away and contaminate the weld. Thank you.
No there’s not. Tig weld wants a super clean surface. I epoxy the panels and mask off 1/2” away from weld seams
Wish could get all that metal work for my 80's British cars last of our car industry! Pattern wheel arches for my maestros etc are hard to find now! Wish I was fit and pain free would love too smash builds out like I used too!
Very hard to find!
Just wanted to let you know your videos are fantastic ive learned alot. On anouther note. Ive used your reconmendations on PPG 2050 This stuff is great ,but can you spray this on 2k epoxy primer ,ive got a couple parts i used 2k on before watching your viedo ,Thanks again
Glad you like them! 2050 can pretty much go over anything for the most part. Just scuff it up
Dustless blasting Huston Texas best ever
An amazingly incredible amount of work. I can’t imagine how much a job like this would cost. Is it really worth piecemealing a car like this together.
It will be when we are done
Matco air saw is definitely the best
I use saws all blades in mine
Sharpen the saws all blade like a chisel and use the saw to clean undercoat the teeth of the blade act as a grinder for more resistance areas to clean
After that I dustless blast and bedline rapture bed liner the bottom
Okay I just got done with a Chevy pickup and I used self tapping screws instead of clecos and I think they work better
Why? They both have pros and cons
Okay Travis, is it a Mustang or a 69 Camero with shock towers? 😂 Great info. I’m 58 and feel like a kid learning stuff all over again. I have a couple projects but one in particular you have inspired me to make some changes that I have been thinking about. I’ll be looking forward to the next installment.
🤣🤣thank you!! Videos are planned to drop every other week 👍🏻
37 minutes in do you have leaks in the roof of your building? I see a entire line of screws missing and looks like a skylight means a source of water to me. That's a fairly easy fix and wouldn't take but adding a larger pole barn screw.
Anyways another great video and looking forward to seeing some of the upcoming classes.
Not sure exactly where you are referring to there is a top. That looks like it’s missing screws but we don’t have any problems currently.
Do you use panel bonding adhesive (3m 08115) during your build? if so, explain how and when.
No everything is welded
The self centering spot weld bits are much better than the old Blair. No need to drill a hole.
That’s what these have they all aren’t the greatest
Hate to be the sucker that bought that hack job.
If you saw it before it was covered up really well.
Shoulda bought a replacement body from Dynacorn and just moved the serial number plate.
We were already to far to turn back with the expensive dipping costs. Might as well save it
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
Haha. I pissed myself laughing when you described how you put your chest up against the drill when drilling spotwelds, because I do the exact same thing.
Those Blair tools are the best and I highly recommend them, i also tend to spray the drill bit with inox or wd40 as I’m drilling
Sometimes you hear a ting, or a sharp light sounding crack once the spot weld has been successfully drilled which is a good indicator to stop.
If you are unable to easily access a spotweld in a tricky spot and your drill will be on a bullshit angle as a result,,, a good trick is to use a 10mm or 3/8 belt sander to grind the spot weld out if you have access to one. They come in REAL handy!
Absolutely agree thank you!!
Love the content. Just wanted to see the restoration of the mustang
There will likely be an update video in a couple weeks. It’s come a long way. Or check us out on instagram & Facebook