How To Take Off & Ride STEEP, HOLLOW WAVES | Surf Lesson
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- Surfing steep, hollow waves is always a little more tricky than surfing beginner-friendly, trickling white water. Let's chat about how to really surf steep, hollow waves well!
I grew up on slower, gentler waves back in South Australia, but since moving to the East Coast of Australia 3 years ago, I’ve had to adjust to the fast hollow waves over here.
As surfers we need to be able to adjust to varying wave size, speed and shape - let's cover it now!
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"Some surfers get scared..."
Me, feeling called out.
Just came from a session and applied your tips and WOW. It made all the difference. Only been surfing for 5 months and this has been a major help. My legs are covered in bruises since I always lean back in fright whenever I catch a steep wave. My wipeouts got so bad I became even more afraid, thus wasting good waves. Today, I watched your video right before paddling out and I have never felt more in control, especially in overhead waves. A surf buddy of mine (surfing for 50 years) commented, "Whatever you're doing, keep doing it. Looked like you knew exactly what you were doing out there." Thank you very much, Kale.
That’s so sick!! Nice work man! Super stoked glad the video helped 🙌🏽🙌🏽
Dude, late drop ins on steep waves are the bane of my existence. I’m at the point of just going full send and constantly wiping out until I get it down. Thanks for the videos brother 🤙🏻
Sounds like you’re ready then
Something that helps me is as I place my hands on the deck to pop up I really press the board down hard. By hard I mean with more force when compared to popping up on a mushy wave. Feel like this really helps with that barrier between breaking the ledge or getting caught in the lip. Cheers
Great tip!! Thanks!!
Looooove mushy waves! They are the only ones I can ride!
Awesome tip
never thought about that
You earned a thumbs-up for laughing at 4:05.
I learned on a steep wave which for me was a blessing and a curse. Now steep take Offs are easier but the learning was the hard part.
I see that as nothing but a blessing. Got the hard stuff out of the way
@@kylecruz1327 fr
Lucky there mate, the more experienced I get the more I'm beginning to see that 'steep'wqve is relative. There's always a wave with a more intense, quicker, heavier takeoff than you've experiences
I think another 2 importants thing (that you are doing well) but worth to mention are:
1) if one tries to take off at the peak he will most likely airdrop. So not only paddling hard and fast, but also reading the peak is important, and maybe taking the wave behind or in front of the peak, where the waves is not vertical
2) looking down the line and angle the board towards where you are going. This will give you “get up and go”
Perfect absolutely!!
Thank you for that advice, when you say looking down the line.. do you mean look down the line while paddling straight? Or do I angle my board slightly right if I am looking right? I've always been confused by this. Thank you for your time (: -Monterey Ca
Diego Sevillano Hi Diego, I like to angle the board towards the direction I want to go...I also stick my eyes to the lip of the wave (if I am going right, I look towards the right) keep heads down while paddling and gently lifting head and chest when I feel the push of the wave. That allows me to have more lift when popping up, and also know where I am going as soon as my feet are on the board. If you can practice at home you’ll realize how easier it is to pop up like that. Grab a mat, pretend you are paddling so you keep your eyes up towards where you are going but heads down close to the mat, put you hands close to the chest and lift up the chest and head, and then do the pop-up. I never try to lift with my head down, I am almost in a very quick cobra position before I do the actual pop-up... hope it helps!
great advise im a knee boarder but i love the advise specially at the dump chiton rocks
Ive gone from beginner to pretty damn good in the past year,all because ive done step by step of your videos
Awesome !!
Out here in east Eastern USA the waves are like walls. Today i went surfing and kept getting pounded so the next time i surf i will try this
All waves in the place I’m learning in Portugal are hollow. So good to know the details behind those. Great video.
Pretty hard to learn in Portugal, tried there twice
Thank you so much for sharing your surfing knowledge. Have seen myself doing endless amounts of nose dives in those hollow waves... keep it up
A really informative video. Here at our break we have had to learn on fast steep waves and it's a whole different game, so it great to see a video giving essential information for surfers in that situation.
It would be cool to see the same type of video but showing what you need to do on a long board (9'.6" upwards).
Thanks for the awesome video man 🤙
Thank you ! You explain perfectly my fear and my mistakes with it! The perfect tips currently
Hey Kale! Great lesson. You know what else would be awesome (in my selfish opinion)? A roadmap that outlines a series of progressions for surfers. From catching whitewater and learning to pop up on foamies to going aerial or something of that level.
I saw that, in the skateboarding world, Braille Skateboarding developed this concept (it goes something like this: ollie -> 180 frontside -> 180 backside -> kick flip -> etc.). I wonder what would be the equivalent in surfing according to Brock!
Oh that’s an awesome idea
Will have some writing sessions ! Stay tuned
@@KalesBroccoli hey bro you made it happen!
This man needs some commission
Thank you I'm a Valley goon that's been surfing for 40 years but it's always good to hear again
Great lesson. I think of waves like skating half pipes (sometimes.) The steeper the wave/pipe, the more you have to lean forward. The more you have to mentally commit.
Hundred percent 🙌🏽
I surfed a lil when I was young but I really got into it this summer watching ur videos I never thought I would ever be able to catch waves as big as the ones in your video but with a lot of practice and wipeouts and tutorials I can surf bigger waves 5-6ft love the videos
One of the hardest balances to learn - leaning forward while putting more weight on the back foot. By default, a person wants to lean back which (as pointed out) is no bueno. This is a very helpful video. Well done.
Great advice as always. Your vids are well thought out and seriously worthwhile watching. Cheers
Awesome footage and great advice Kale, much appreciated! Currently struggling in the bigger autumn/winter swells on my foamie...
Went out today with this tips. It was steep waves with some decent barrels. I could tell you paddling faster ona steep wave does a ton of good👍
This is good but the way I learnt was going out on a foamie and just sending it till I was confident enough to go on a proper board. You just gotta send it
foamies rule brother yeeeew
Kim Sharp means to send it lol
@@Kim-dm9xm it means to grab those two squishy things between your legs and just charge it
thanks for this video! learned so much! it's still scary but knowledge is power! totally helpful how you break down the dynamics of steep fast waves and how the surfer can adapt!
You explain everything so well. Thank you!
This is excellent. Can't wait to actually focus on these steps
Thank you for making this really helped me out !
Hey thank you so much for these videos, they help me a lot! I just started out and love the kind of analytical approach to your explanations. Take care my man, cheers from Tokyo.
Really awesome vid that gets into the detail of different types of waves. Every day is a new day 🐱
Kale, just want to say i find your videos etc... inspiring , informative and esp the surf ones fun. Love your outlook on life and surf. Cheers
Thanks brother!! Appreciate it 😁
Amazing video Kales! Thank you!
Thanks for the great videos, I have been surfing a year, just started leaning forward enough, to pop up on steeper waves, great feeling and does hurt less than nose diving. Looking forward to more videos :)
awesome :)
Idk if I completely agree with your board choice on this one on the principles that rounder tails and more pulled in tails like the twin has that you didn’t take out tend to have more hold in steeper hollow waves the more width in the tail like a swallow makes the planing surface bigger making it hold less in the wave and be more skaty being better for smaller or rounder faced waves also bigger twin sets have a tendency to hold and lock into steep faces making them excellent barrel boards because they can mimick a single fins hold when put on the rail if you hold it hard in a vertical section that’s why guys like torren Martyn who actually won an award for style recently primarily ride twinnies over thrusters. I think from my experience it’s because the way they can hunt the barrel and love being put in steep sections accelerating as it gets more hollow and at the same time they can also excel through the flat by maintaining glide when a centerfin might add too much drag just food for thought cheers
Dude you da man! All your videos are great and really help me progress in my surfing. Thanks or all the tips!
Thanks Kale! This was very very helpful!
So true man !!. Thanks. A right angle during the take off is also a key point on this kind of waves .
Love it 😎
Awesome!! Yeah absolutely that helps
Steep waves are very dificult to catch... it seems always that i’m going to front edge of the board into the water... The tip of putting The weight on the back foot has changed my life! 🏄♂️✌🏻🤙🏻
I'm pretty confident when riding 2-3 ft waves but when they're 5-6 ft. I just don't have the confidence. I find myself too far outside, unwilling to put myself in the take off zone for fear of getting caught inside. My duck dive is so/so. I just hate paddling for a wave that I know is gonna break on my back. Maybe I just need more 4 ft waves!
Practice and confidence 🤙🏽
I think theres a scale of fun, the best point of fun is when your out the back feeling safe, this enables us to catch more, without being afraid. I would personally only go up to 6ft and even thats scary, 2-3/4 is ideal.
I used to feel the same until I committed to learning to ride large waves on my backhand. It took about 2-3 year of putting in the hours but now I'm actually more comfortable on bigger waves on my backhand. There is something about being able to quickly pig dog that feels strong and in control. Now its time to work on my forehand again in bigger surf.
Go to Indo. Get to surf 4-6 ft regularly. Pick the easier breaks where there’s an easy paddle out. You’ll find your taking off in clean larger waves (so much easier than dealing with wild 6ft east coast Oz waves).
You’ll get used o the size before you know it. Come home and be paddling out in larger surf no problem.
If you can afford it go to the Maldives! Friends who went there say the take offs are very user friendly !
But seriously, just head over to Bali each winter for a surf holiday. 🤔😀
@@southcoastpauly When is it a bit quieter in Bali?
To fully commit forward its very helpfull to spend time bowlriding, and dropping in on your surfskate at a skatepark. It really helped me a lot.
Awesome video! Thanks
Thank you! Than was exactly what I needed to hear right now :)
This solved so many of my problems. Thank u!
Great video, thanks! Kale kills it again!
Thanks so much for this video. The paddling part of it was amazing.
😃😍
ONya Kales! Another awesome lesson. I have surfed for 30 years and you fixed my surfing with your ...where to look when you pop up lesson tips. I was dropping my head omg different life now lloloololol. Love your lessons cheers and keep ripping!! yEwwwwwww!
Epic!!! Nice brother that’s great news
Kale
Awesome vid dude! Been following you for a very long time, you’ve helped me along so much!❤️🏄♂️
That’s awesome! 😁😁
Thanks for the tips!
Great breakdown. Thank you
Really like your vids mate, you break down all the essentials real nicely. Stuck in lockdown in NZ & planning on learning to surf properly after we are allowed out in the water again
Thank you! Feelin for ya at this time
Thanks Kale, I've been surfing for about 7 months now and struggling with having the confidence to get on the front of the board exactly as you explained. Glad I'm not the only one. Will paddle harder when I'm out next time!
Awesome Adam! The commitment pays off
I learned to surf in Texas. Wind chop that is all sand bar and punchy mush. If you can surf here you can surf anywhere. Once you learn how to get outside.
Glad you covered forward leaning, something no one talks about but is so essential. I would add, using one's hands to turn the board before you hop up on it. this is also crucial and a trick that helps a lot.
100% for sure - I almost went into paddle in but didn’t want the video to go for too long
thank you your videos are much appreciated
Always a great lesiona! You are the best
Great video this is gonna help me a lot, I'm a fairly inexperienced surfer from northern California and right now everything's overhead to double overhead closeout barrels so it's pretty harsh trying to drop in, not being able to paddle fast enough and getting sent over the falls. Keep up the dope videos 🤙
Cheers brother 🤙🏽🙌🏽 plenty more comin
great review ! Waves look super fun especially that reef break
Super fun!
Great Video, learnt a lot! Can’t wait to get back in the water in the U.K.!
Hey man, im a surfer from Belgium. I surf South Africa and youre vids help me so much. So thank you
Legend! Love both those countries! Thank you for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽
This was very enlightening. I'm not ready for these type of waves yet, but I have watched many people surf on you tube & have wondered how it works in these circumstances. No one that I've found has covered this topic before. Thanks.
Awesome 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Corrected watch to watched. I hate poor grammar. Lol. Lost your heart by correcting it though, since it changed the comment I suppose. 😕
Wow this is amazing!
Thanks for the great videos!
Just recommend that you can put summaries in every video you’ve made. It will be more easier for foreign people to watch and learn.
Some nice tuberides you had there, great vid thx for sharing.
Couple fun ones for sure!!
Excellent video thanks.
Thank u so so much! But i didn't understand if I need to lean forward and commit or to lean backwards to privent nosediving when dropping in the steep wave
This is so true and helpful. Waves here change everyday. One day I feel like I’m making progress, my pop up and paddling is improving but the next day the waves are taller, faster and steeper and I feel like I’ve regressed. I try to catch one but I usually nose dive and eat it on my first wave or two on my 6’10 foamie and I feel like I’m just not ready for those waves so I just ride the white water. Going to get a board more suitable for those types of waves and work on these techniques. Thank you.
Definitely get a hard board, shorter, thruster. When you pop up, don't simply get up to your feet, but rather, as you do the pushup with your arms, raise your hips also and slide your leading knee up to your chest sideways (at this moment you are still in a horizontal position and your hands are still on the board so have good balance), then throw the board down and finish standing up. This method of bringing your leg forward is quicker than crouching first on the way to standing up. It's a kind of very flat crouch, which is faster and retains more balance. This way you get down into the face of the wave quicker and more balanced. Good luck!
Most relatable video I've seen in a while
Terrific. Great to see old Whaley again:)
Very helpful, thank you!
great videos, keep em coming!!!!!!!
I'm always enjoying what you guys do can you guys make it so easy to understand and you make it so easy to understand.
🙌🏽🤙🏽
@@KalesBroccoli thxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thx for the awesome video! Looking forward to more in-depth video analysis.
😁🤙🏽🙏🏽
Another really good one!! Been improving a ton because of your videos dudes. Was riding down the line last weekend and kept hearing Ryan say “Keep yourself close to the power source” hahahahaha
Nice!
Cheers. I was at Medewi (point break) in Bali a few weeks back. Over 8 days I got accustomed to the laid-back left hander - then on my last day I tried the right hander: heavier, steeper, faster - had me scratching my head. Looking forward to applying your tips when I'm home.
Awesome Joseph!! 🙌🏽🤙🏽
@@KalesBroccoli new channel is cool btw. Keep it up 💪👌 I started surf-skating this year too (I have a swelltech; friend has a smoothstar). You use a Smoothstar right? Always down for vids on surfskating 🙏
Man you really understand surfing hey. Whenever you point out a mistake people make, I understand that I’m doing it. Unfortunately I live in central Qld where the waves are 2ft closeouts 1sec apart , or there is a cyclone coming past and they are 5ft closeouts 1sec apart so a long way from ideal learning conditions and really stunting my progress. I try to take onboard all the advice you give but conditions make it hard to put that advice into practice. The addiction of surfing is directing my life though, and hopefully by the end of this year I will be down the sunny coast with many many days of great conditions to learn this craft and get to an intermediate level. Keep up the great work Kale. These videos are invaluable for people in my geographical circumstance and encourage me to keep on keeping on when I get frustrated with the continually poor conditions and start to lose hope🤙 loved the air camp at 3:23 too mate.
Thanks kale for that video.. it helps a lot!! Keep it up!! Godbless
Thanks legend !!! 🤙🏽 glad it helped
This is just the advice I needed, thanks!
I'm a complete beginner and still figuring things out and where I live the waves are always like this, small steep and fast. Last weekend I managed to catch almost every wave but would nosedive as soon as I tried to pop up. Next time I'll try to lean forward with weight on back foot, let's see how that goes :D
Awesome! And try to get in as early as possible with some great paddling!
Love the channel and tutorials. Kudos!!!!
Cheers mate yew! 🤙🏽
Great video Kale, a lot to take in, but I look forward to the challenge. I have struggled on vacation at some beach breaks that are quick, and steep.
Yes it can be a challenge to increase your speed and intensity overnight but once you get it you’ll get it!
Can you make a video on how to progress from my mal to a fish/ short board please ? The differences in body position, pop up technique when my feet aren’t on the board any more and paddling etc.
Thanks again mate ... lots to ponder here
🙌🏽🙌🏽
I’m pumped for more surf tutorials!! Ive been watching you and Ryan for a good while now, and feel like I’ve learned so much from you guys. I can’t wait to learn more.
Awesome! Got loads more coming here!!
great video! helped me a lot thank u so much!
You're welcome!
Great lesson!!! I was missing this information
Thanks man 😁
Hey bruva! Just got that steep feeling yesterday and didn't pop up and got a massive wipe out. Thanks for the tip Kales!
No wuckas brother 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Kale
Kale dude you’re ripping!! Those airs are looking boosted! Cheers mate
That’s very kind of you! 😁
Best advice and FYI,I hope to take a shorter time to,find my weak points and solve it.
Thank you I need this
Thank you. Always helpful 👍
Yew!!!
Great explanation dude! Very analytical which I love! Like t'he end of the video!!! Thank you so much! Aloha!😂😂😄😄
😁😁🤙🏽🏄🏼♂️
Great video Kale. I enjoy the analytical way you break things down. I'd love a video on sliding 360s on the forehand, if you're looking for content ideas.
Also we're driving up to Bunbury on the 23rd for the longevity film, looking forward to it!
Oh awesome! Yeah I think a video on rotational turns would be good.
Looking forward to connecting!
Got barreled for the first time today thanks to this!
💯
I suck on steeper waves but I know that its all a matter of time put into those types waves and becoming comfortable. Like anything really.
Nice upgrade on the music and production levels! Good on ya to the art director!
Thanks man! Looking forward to doing more of this for ya this season! 🤙🏽
I always fall after popup on the steep waves... catching waves is so hard!!!! I will go watch the next video on how to get rid of fear. I have this big fear whenever I paddle while looking back
loved her going over the falls, we all been there... She is lucky that it's a small wave and you are there to you explain it to her and making it fun. I found section 7:33 a bit hard to understand. Leaning forward while having more weight on the backfoot, sounds contradictory. So the body above the hip is leaning forward, yet the backfoot is placed down more firmly to the back?
wicked that your from South Australia !!
Im a beginner today i struggled with this type of waves.. im thinking a smaller board might help to adjust to this type of waves.. it feels like the falling forward part is definetely something I must practice.. for my bigger board I can practice popups but the speed is not enough for whitewater and it cant duckdive... mabye I can get more speed to get ahead of the wave... staring at the big walls coming at you and getting smashed can be a good "getting used to" practice too... I do fear the lifting and Im not at all used to that yet... its like learning to riding a bike again.. what I fear most is getting speared by the board lol.. I guess its just a matter of attacking the waves and overcoming the fears. One step at a time... thanks alot for the vid... now I will paddle hard and try to get in front
You forgot about stroking...i mean activating the banana! Corking and angling the board helps. I also like reefs and points on hollower days. You can sit next to the peak rather than right on it, so the take off is a bit easier. Beach break tends to close out more on bigger, steep days.
Yep for sure! I actually found it hard to keep this video within that 11-12 minute mark because of all these extras I could have spoken about - but I will definitely cover more in the upcoming paddle videos and positioning videos 🤙🏽🤙🏽
I love fun steep drop ins! When there’s no sharp reef :)
Nice vid! U should do one on identifying the right wave to catch and ur line ??
For sure! I’ll work on it :)