How To Surf Big Waves & Overcome Fear | Surf Lesson
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2020
- Surfing big waves is always a challenging experience, especially if you've only taken up surfing later in life. As always, spending as much time as possible in the ocean during bigger swells is the surest way to feeling more confident, however these practical tips will also help.
With a recent run of big waves here on the East Coast of Australia, I found myself a little unprepared for many of the waves on offer for the apex of the swell.
I ended up surfing some great waves, solid, but definitely not huge. I saw many intermediate level surfers who also paddled out but struggled with the conditions. This tutorial is for them.
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kale any advice on what to do when you fall because I always end up with my board tomb stoning when its 12ft plus.
idk about a swell, but it got me stoked! I bought a surf skate yesterday because of your how to rip video! It's really fun. Cheers!
@@ethankirby7831 Nathan Florence does a pretty good vid on this. czcams.com/video/PHDvuCcGtlE/video.html
@@MrRandsauce shot will for sure check it out
What should we expect in terms of the frequency of uploads on your patreon? Thanks for the videos!
Ride closeouts. Take a lot of wipeouts. Go bigger little by little. Try reefs. Try surfing alone in some odd spot. Fight your fears one by one and one day you will take on those 6ft+ with the only fear left. Fear of missing out.
brill
seriously. Getting chucked over the falls did it for me.
me right now in southern Mexico getting tossed
Ride close outs is what I'm gonna do this year. I'm sure along with short rides and different variables to overcome it will pay off as more experience and confidence. Thanks for the tip👍
I fought my fear and caught a 7 ft barrel
But fell cause I’ve never been on a 7ft barrel
You forgot the most important thing when paddling out in big surf: ask yourself, if my leash snaps, will I be able to swim back to shore? If the answer is no, don't go.
🙌🏽
You nailed it. Got to be able to survive when leash goes “snap”
That's always my thought! My nerves have been getting to me lately because not long ago I hit my head on my board, but I recently was brave and caught a 5 foot. Even though it's not very big, I'm still proud because a week ago I was scared of a 3 footer.
@@emma-nd2ey Thats awesome! Yeah getting hit on the head will rattle you. I'm happy it didnt stop you from surfing and progressing
@@robarnoldbik8014 thanks 🤙 I'm going out today and the swell is a little bit bigger than normal, about 6 feet, wish me luck 😂
My top tips for big surf is breath, if a big set will get you out of position exhale all the air and just before you duck dive inhale all you can. If you get held down just relax, don't fight the wave and wait until you feel the turbulence is reducing and when you get to the surface dont breath without opening your eyes and cheking if you have time to take a breath or if there is any foam. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY: IF YOU CAN'T SWIM BACK TO THE BEACH IF YOUR LEASH BREAKS DON'T GO IN!!!
I’ll add on to this tip. Don’t be out of breath before a set rolls in. You don’t want to be oxygen starved after struggling to paddle back to the lineup and then you get smashed and held under for several waves. You’ll know you’re ready when you are relaxed and breathing through your nose without struggling. Then hyperventilating or taking 5-10 deep exhales and breaths when you see a set coming. Helps also before you’re about to puke as well or any other situations you won’t be breathing for a bit. 😅 also buy a big wave thick leash at the start of the season and use it only for the heavy sessions. Then get a new one each season.
I disagree tho because when the surf gets so big and the break is far u probably can't swim in
Good advice for sure Kales....My 2 cents for the intermediate crowd
1. when it gets serious - know your limitations and be more picky about what waves you catch and the days you go out. Big waves are not all alike some are rollers that drag you a long way underwater and some detonate.
2. Deep Slow Breathing - slow your system down since your adrenaline will eventually be pumping. Its not about being macho, its about being prepared and living. I avoid anything that looks like a closeout.
3. Observe the ocean for minimum of 20 minutes or more before going out. Is the swell rising or falling?Where I surf it can get very heavy - a pro surfer broke his neck in epic big surf there and was lucky to live, I was out the day before that happened and it was building and getting scary- it can be life threatening and the lips can literally be 6ft of throwing icy water.
4. know all your emergency plans (where is the closest hospital if you need the emergency room) - and surf with other people when its big.
5. Get a good NEW leash every winter (or summer if the waves are big then). Not one over 2 years old.
6. If your leash breaks its good if someone can spot you (meaning watch to make sure you are ok going in at the very least.). I broke my leash on a very big day and was 200 plus yards off the coast and fortunately someone did spot me (he was going in as well) and made sure i was safe. Who knows he may have saved my life...
7. Currents can be very strong know them and abide by the basic rules of channels and currents (to go in you must be where the waves are, the channels typically suck you out) that means yes you may take pounding so pacing yourself and saving your energy is very key. And most of all big surf is about being very calm and respectful (and watching your energy levels)
For what its worth I gave up days well over 10ft. (double overhead) with a family its not my business to be thrill seeking but I do miss the feeling of being on top of a freight train. Really big waves are an addictive rush and scary. Anyhow hope that helped and you get that life affirming rush if you do go.
Yount Freshly Spot on, holmes! I really thought Kale would be getting into some of these finer points about how to deal with bigger waves.
Good points. Also - a pro broke his neck in 6ft surf?
@@jkr8715 6 foot lips - Mike parsons - ob
the most important thing is deffinetly to go with friends, they’ll hype you up to go on bigger waves then you usually would and that’s how you get better, no half senders allowed
unless your friends cant make it out and leave you out there to catch the bombies alone. That happened to me recently at a mackin day at trestles. Just as I was paddeling into a bomb i told myself : don't think, go!' I did, i was the stud for the day, and it changed my life.
no half senders 🤣 that nr 1 rule
Totally agree, I was pretty afraid of a reef brake in my hometown and was always avoiding it even if it's one of the best spots here, one day a friend of mine (very good surfer) encouraged me to go together, it was very big but in the end it was a lot of fun I just needed somebody to push me.
I needed this lmao the most I’ve been out in is 6 feet and there’s a 10 feet swell rolling up rn
10 foot swell is 7 foot lol
@@l.a5627 what how
@@l.a5627
Cap. A real 10 footer is much scarier than a 7 footer. Those 3 feet make it seem like a mountain above your head.
@@Aromatic-ring cap a ten foot swell is fucking like 8 foot dip shit and 12 foot would been 10 foot
@@l.a5627
He was talking about wave height dip shit. Maybe read a book.
You've really just got to cop a few big ones on the head to realise they aren't as bad as you might think. Once I find myself panicking that's when I get into even more trouble, mind set it key.
I agree, after having so many 8ft waves breaking over my head, i simply wasn't that scared anymore
In the past as a beginner the really first point for me was to overcome the fear of big waves. I was like, how tf should I get out there and surf such a big wave. It really helped me, just to paddle out in the lineup. When your out you can see the waves from a totally different perspective and watch other surfers from a different perspective.
Coming out into the lineup is really hard for a beginner, but managing this already gives you some confidence.
You have to overcome the psychological point to surf such waves.
My second step was, to paddle in the waves and feel the power they have. On this way you can get a felling for the waves and as you feel ready try to stand up. Don't give up if it don't work at the first times! You will reach the goal step by step.
One thing about surfing bigger waves, depending on the surf spot, is that there is typically a larger margin for error while taking off than on smaller waves. As long as the surfer is 100% committed, a fumbled stroke or stumble while popping up can often be fixed while taking off on a larger wave as the time from popping up to dropping in is longer than on a small wave. The other thing is that larger waves typically break in deeper water. The worst injuries I've ever been around while surfing happened in small waves that break in shallow water. My son got a severe concussion while surfing a chest high cracking beach break because it was breaking in very shallow water. Use the deeper water in big surf to your safety advantage. Of course, Jaws or The Right or Cow Bombie or Mavericks are different animals altogether.
Love your vids bro, 6-8ft beach break a lot scarier than most predictable reef breaks. The paddle out can be 20 mins, plus also taking a beating with hold down 2-3 in a row when caught inside scary AF
My advice that helped me was get into body surfing, and bodysurfing shorebreak. It gives you so much confidence knowing you’ve already willingly taken off the leash and taken a beating, and doing it for fun none the less.
I like the 3-2-1-go principal. So simple. I’ve been hesitating on the bigger set waves lately, thinking they’ll close out, only to watch the missed wave peel perfectly along the bank. Gonna 3-2-1 them from now on!
💯🙌🏽
Rings the bell 😅
Was out in 7ft waves today, almost drowned, wasn't prepared for what that kind of swell looked like. Lots of lessons learned and got out safely. When you get rekt by 6ft+ waves over and over, gasping for air, poorly duck diving, feeling the raw power of the ocean, that's all positive. A few hours out from that session, I feel like the silver lining is now I won't be as nervous about 4ft-5ft waves and that should help me build up.
Update: continued surfing but kept it
any advice for ppl trying to push the comfort zone and get used to bigger waves? i feel like for me 2-3 ft days feel perfect for me and not as intimidating so i always get into the flow state easily. but every time i’ve gone out on 3-4 ft days the waves seem significantly bigger and stronger esp the white wash and it freaks me out.
Hey@@tourdel2 , yeah I would say getting better at duck diving has helped, exposure has helped too. Which is basically just getting in to work on your paddling in bigger waves, not panicking, etc more than trying to catch bigger waves.
Also going with a friend whose more experienced.
Just take it slow. I now do a breathing exercise when in bigger waves, both when paddling in and when I get out. The goal with the breathing is it helps me take "control" of the moment. If a wave is coming and I'm nervous, I try to force the slow breathing and when I get back up after the wave hits, breathing again.
Also push way up at first when you get out, way before the waves start curling so you can just sit there watch other surfers take off, see how the waves form, etc before taking any risk.
@@RJ-sh6ow thanks for the reply bro, i’ll definitely try out the breathing exercise next time i go out. as for wiping out or getting taken by white wash, is it normal to get thrown and spun around? i noticed that’s usually why i panick the most with stronger waves. i usually end up flailing, but should i just be sitting still and letting it throw me around? idk if that may be a dumb question lol
@@tourdel2yea mate, just relax your entire body, protect your head and let mother nature deal with you. you will float back up naturally after the “washer machine” think of it kinda like a roller coaster. one more thing to add to this huge list of comments, always, always put your hand up out of the water before you come for a breath, this will allow you to feel if another wave is crashing, foam, etc!
3 weeks ago we got huuuuuuge waves in socal , i was exited and shitting myself at the same time as soon as i was sitting on the other side of the line . then a big standout came , peaking way before my position , pushing me with all that power big waves have and giving me no other choice than try that drop or get smashed. it was a success , my first xl wave.
i paddled back to the line up for another one , and another one .and another one...... after work , go back to te beach , and the day after .
that adrenaline blast at the moment i dropped that first one . its like heroin
and monday to wednesday ( and maybe beyond) , big waves are back , bigger . cant wait . YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!
I'm doing my second surf competition this Saturday!! I'm really stoked bc i've gotten much better by your vids. So thanks man!! Just thought I could mention this because everyone is very kind and supportive here
Impressed you could talk for 10 min about mindset and commitment when paddling.
Probably need to mention that if people can’t swim in after a leg rope fail they shouldn’t be out there
absolutely and sadly my current weakness-interestingly I find that when I have done a lot more swimming my confidence gets so much higher and I surf way better-currently off swimming for a variety of reasons and confidence in bigger surf is negligible -for me swim training (in the ocean) is really key to my surfing-I’ll always have fun when its smaller!
Strangely i am way more confident without a board in larger waves than with one. One time i got slammed in a wave that was too big for my skill level, i had to let the board wash in on its own and paddle myself in. Thankfully it was a quiet day tho
Can you do an in-depth tutorial on how to read swell charts (not just the forecast)?
Different per location
Will try to find an expert
Kale, you're the single best source for my surfing improvement right now. Awesome job!
I love this.Seeing that dark inside of an 8 footer just triggers my heart beat and instantly you are already thinking of wiping out
6:11 This is how I feel when I drop in on a 5 foot spilling wave at my local beach break 😂
And if you feel too tired to swim you can also float by laying on your back and holding air in and it allows you to rest
This is pertinent to everyone.
Thanks Kale. I really appreciate your thoughts and helpful guidance. Commitment is key and hesitation brings doom. A positive mindset and mantra. Choose a wave, paddle in and go for it. And what a lot of others here are saying, make sure you can swim and feel confident before even heading out. Good luck with all the projects bro'!
Thank you so much Kale for being an inspiration and sharing amazing tutorials and content. Keep it up! It means a lot to so many of us :) peace
Love this Kale!! The swell a few weeks ago was mad dee why point was firing
Nice!
Sammy I live at North Curl Curl and the surf has been pretty big here lately too
@@mariusfn1570 was surfing curly just a few days ago and it was firing bro!!, keep shredding
Good advice. One thing I'd mention is ease into your turns more when it gets bigger. When its smaller you're transitioning quickly from rail to rail. Also keep a low center of gravity especially on the take off. Watch videos of what pros do in big waves focusing on the take off and bottom turn. Of course know your limit
Yes!
Thanks, Kale. CA just got a bigger swell and this was a great brush up to feel comfortable again.
Thanks for sharing the videos Kale!
Very helpful and wonderfully composed, Thanks Kales!
thank you, kale! your videos have been really really helpful as i’ve started to surf consistently over the past year or so.
would love a deep dive / special episode specifically on breathing and different types of techniques for different situations!
I remember the first day i got my board, i went straight to the most renowned surf spot, not caring that it looked like a washing machine out there. Paddled out, got too scared to come back in again so i just sat out there on my board 😅 i realise it now, that day still haunts me when i go out.
When I started surfing, I had a surf coach who would just push us in every single waves for 2 hours straight to get us over our fear of falling.. it was a shock therapy of sorts.. gotta say that it worked..
Dude, cheers for the Vid, Friday me and my mate are paddling out In 8-10ft, I'm Kinda Scared, I won't lie, biggest Swell I've surfed so far😳🤙🏽
You are an awesome surf instructor/surfer. I recommend your channel to all my friends who want to improve or even start to surf.
Epic as always, great vid. Good to see you back bro 🤙🏼
Thank you!
Rode my first 3’ overhead wave today. I can’t agree more with the skill / experience flow mentioned in the vid. Two years ago I would see overhead+ waves and fear; today I saw overhead+ waves and grinned. Skill level must match. I will also say a bigger board matters! Tried riding the same waves on my short board and the takeoff was sketchy; with a little more length (step up / mid) you have more time to slide in safely on bigger waves.
Well done KB, awesome work, glad to see everything lining up for you.
Thank you!
Good job kale.Thanks for share!
This video is so helpful, thank you!! Breathing, 1/2/3 count and committing. Amazing.
Thanks for this. You read my mind of the video I needed !
great vids man, helps me out loads
Wish I lived in Aussie wherever you do mate so you can teach me, im across the ditch in NZ. Feel like I've been a beginner for years
Been watching your videos for ages, dude! Bought your Surf skate video course and it was a game changer. Still trying to transfer my confidence and free movement on a surf skate to my surfing, but I'll get there. Anyway, big thanks. Jason
Hei brother thank you so much for making this video. I really needed your tips as I'm struggling going back to my confidence on overheads. I haven't surfed for a year and at least 2 years of no bigger than 5feet... 🤗 thank you! I'll follow your tips and keep breathing consciously the whole time 🙏🏼
This channel always made me move forward! 🔥
🙌🏽
Another great video Kale. Thanks man. :)
You are without question the BEST surf instructor I've ever found, online or anywhere in person. I really hope you continue doing these. Any chance of collaborating with a Bodyboarder to create a bodyboard series like this? Maybe even a foil series and kite boarding series? I figure, if you get the right coaches and guests, this would be an amazing teaching brand for watermen/waterladies. I've never seen someone do it as well as you, truly.
Awesome! Again, great video mate. Im about to watch the doco!
😁😍
Awesome vid kale love this vids !🤙🏼
Thank you!!
After getting a wipeout/cow yesterday I find u here, then after watching the video, today I tried again to surf into the swell and bang no fear at all to face the big wave
I think my main problem is I can’t duck dive deep enough to get under bigger waves (6ft Cali) so I don’t wanna waste all my energy paddling out. I also think once I go for a wave I’ll bail and not be able to get back out to try again...
In my experience in these conditions it isn't as much in how deep you duck, but more about timing your ducks to actually miss the roughest part of the impact.
Yeah timing is key. But if you can't duck dive deep enough, then you'll still get fully rag dolled. When it gets really big, and you're right in the impact zone on a big set, you're not gonna be able to duck dive it anyway. You just need to be fit enough and ocean smart enough to deal with it. If in doubt, don't go out! Safety first✌️
surf a reefbreak, in the mentawais...i got just the spot for you
@John Frankland Well unfortunately you're just never gonna be able to duckdive that board. High volume boards like that are generally designed for small surf where duckdiving isn't really necessary . I have a similar problem with a 42L twin fin I have. I can duckdive it. But can't get it deep at all. It's just a physical impossibility, as I'm not heavy enough to sink it fully. Don't take it out in big surf unless you've got a good solid leash. And you know you can make the swim in if your leash snaps. And be prepared to spend alot of time bailing your board and diving deep... Actually, just don't take it out in big surf full stop pretty much. It's obviously a fun board for small days. Probably doesn't go that well in the big stuff anyway.. Either that, or just eat alot of pies and put on 20kg! Then you might be able to sink it🤪🤣😁
Nice video mate great foundation to use for building confidence
Fun and scary at same time 🏄♀️🌊🌊🌊
Not digging a rail or going back side
U r the best u help so much
thank u love ur content and your advices
Had to go back to this one. I was sharting bricks this week with the hurricane swell. East coast US doesn’t get much over waist to chest.
Hello Kale, I have watched a couple of your videos and I am impressed with your knowledge and ability to teach, and you do it blissfully with passion. Well done! I am in Long Island NY and look forward to swells incoming from Hurricane Lee. Aloha!
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Good stuff as always Kale
Thank you!
Thanks just had a great time on my 5,10 lost rocket at Spanish bay in pacific grove some solid swell rn
Sweet vid as usual. Bummer couldn’t figure out the Longevity Doc video from México. Stay cool 🤙🏼😎
Hey thanks for telling me how to overcome big wave fear very helpful
thank you , the breath part is what I explore , what made me wake up is fast paddle and commitment , again bro cheeeeres
Thanks bro!! Time to send it.
I completely overcomed my fears by going to oahu last year. Then when u come back to your local break, u feel so comfortable and hundred time better. 12 feet waves last week seemed so easy because of that 😊
12 foot! Wow - quadruple overhead!! Sounds like a nightmare to me.
You're right, after any challenging surf trip, you feel very confortable surfing your home break.
Super helpful ! Thank you heaps 🙌🏼 3ft waves scare the blooody heck out of me, & especially if I’m in the impact zone when a set comes 😢
I am from germany and can only go surfing on vacations once a year. What you are saying at around 2:30 is pretty much my mantra.
Most of the time i do some sort of training befor a trip. This year i didnt had a chance to do so and a steppted down on getting into conditiions that i wasnt conftable because of my fitness.
You need to listen to yourself and contemplate what you are capable of,... physically and mentally. If you arent, its most of the time not getting to be a good session or even get worth and anxieties can get triggert which reaaally keeps you away from that flow state.
Yesssssssss!! Thanks Kale, Idek if you remember me but I am that girl that commented on one of your vids and I talked about how it’s scary to go out especially being smaller than others... 😂
Thanks!
OMG these waves! 😱 Epic video and great tips for the winter swells! Keep it up Bro 🤙🏻
Big ones for ya!
👻
Another great video! I enjoy them a lot!
I struggle with my take off so much... I have "decent" balance once I am standing on the board, however, sometimes I miss so many waves because of my bad take off. What would you recommend me to improve it?
Thank you!
Massive love to you bro @kalesbroccoli
Haven’t started the vid but I kinda want him to say “just fuckin send it duuuudeeee” 😂😂
Hi Kales, very good video, but I have to say that the main thing is to train for *apnea* cause a lot of surfers don't train for it. Have a good apnea, a good capacity to keep breath, make you much more confident about surfing big. I'm more a tricky small waves, small boards, but sometimes I like to challenge myself with good bigger waves (even I never surfed more than 12 feet). Another thing that I think important is to get a wipeout. Of course not a bad wipeout on the reef, but if you are in a big, but not dangerous place (so enough water under you when you fall) a wipeout make you more confident for next waves. Of course I'm talking about my experience with the maximum size I got.
I have friends that surf Nazarè, and is better to never have a wipeout in those places, even some times will happen, doesn't matter the size you surf, nobody never fall!
i learned surf from your lessons bro just thank you so much for all this work and effort
Thank you!
thanks!!
The 1, 2, 3, count was a good tip. I can also see how committing, even to a sub-optimal wave, might be better than backing off or hesitating. It's easier to pull straight off from the bottom of a bad wave than to hesitate and get pulled over the falls.
Awesome info!
Thanks for watching!
I’m in Costa Rica right now and yesterday and today are the biggest swells of the week at 5-6 ft and I’m wayyy too scared to drop in on one
Best Luck with everythin' Kale !!! Big Fan !! :-D
Thanks!! 🎉
THANK YOU BROTHER
Keep crushing it bro 🤙🏾
🤙🏽🙌🏽
First exp of big waves was in '76,Margs main break,15 years old,swell jumped to 20foot plus held down on 3 wave set, almost blacked out.battle your fears guys and you will succeed.
Great advice!
Thanks!
Hey Kale, I grew up surfing in LA from 13. Surfed for six years and then stopped, got into music and then moved overseas. A few years ago I got back to surfing. I mainly rented boards (btw I'm in NY now so the season is limited), or went out with a friend who's board was way too big for me. I finally bought a 7'6" board from So. Cal. Held back due to cvd and just now finally want to go out with my new board. Tried the other day and got to the spot at high tide. So..... no success. But I can feel the fear that's been mounting up in me. Your 3, 2, 1 might help. Even with the bigger more solid rental boards (not great boards, but stable) I still had a lot of hesitation. I'm training myself best as possible to push through the fear.
Hey Kale! What is your typical weight distribution when dropping in on a big wave?
Kale's big Kahuna lesson 🤙
Remember not even dolphins can breath water but you can hold your breath way longer than you think.
Good stuff mate! Man I miss those Aussie waves!
Thanks!
I found when I was trying to get to bigger waves (Blacks in San Diego) that tide level mattered a lot. If I paddled out during high tide and large wind swell waves it was a lot easier.
The swell has been sooo big near by. So this really helped🥰
The biggest mistake I see intermediate surfers make in big waves is not paddling hard enough. It's almost like they think because the wave will stand up quick and hollow its best for the wave to catch you. Where as the truth is you need to paddle your guts out to counter balance the speed at which the wave is pulling you up the face.
Also I always remind myself in big surf that if I can hold my breath for 2-3 minutes out of the surf I can easily be held down for 30 seconds at the extreme. So when ever I get held down I just protect my head, relax and start counting. More often than not, I surface well before 30 seconds.
Plenty of swell hitting us in SA at the moment - so this came at a good time. Just made it out of my first proper barrel this past Sunday which has got me so stoked and my custom shaped board is gonna be done tomorrow. Wow I'm so blessed with where I stay in Bushmans Village here in the EC. There are so many good breaks that work on different conditions and with the winter swell we've been able to work on late drops, getting pitted and generally dealing with bigger waves.
shaka people, keep charging - keep on progressing.
Oh yeah, + it's so epic to surf with a crew and make mates with the locals, it makes it feel like you belong, and they push you to charge harder!!!
🎉🎉🙌🏽🙌🏽
Awesome
Omg thank you I watched this two days ago and we had waves I counted the 123 go and it worked I am so incredible grateful thank you thank You thank you 🌸
Nice Kyle
Love this small wave board u ride..look like my nb2
Hey this might be a dumb question but how do you paddle out with a high volume board and avoid the back wash from pushing you back
kales i was out that weekend it was huge. yeh i barely caught anything but it was good to paddle out the back and get used to the sets rolling through. one thing that i think i need to work on is finding an appropriate paddle point. for me lots of the waves were hitting the sandbank pretty straight and just closed out.
I love you brother, sheers up to you ❤️❤️✊🙏🙏
Dude I freak out at like 6ft waves I would die out there with big waves. Lol
Choosing wave size is crucial when choosing to surf I surfed 10foot waves on certain days and I wouldn't go out on 6foot waves on other days it's all got to do with how much swell movement there is and can you manage to stay in the take off zone