I am helping my neighbors son out by swapping his bad transmission on his 2006 F-350 diesel. I don't have a lift so this swap will be done 100% on my shop floor.
Great video! In the middle of doing this myself on my garage floor as well lol. I couldn’t get a straight shot at the torque converter nuts due to the rear cover, so I ended up using a 1/4” ratchet with a 1/4-3/8” adapter and a 14mm crows foot. It did the trick!
This is a good lesson for a young kid. In High School, the Rear End in my First truck went out and I didn’t have the money to fix it. For almost a month and a half, I was stuck walking or hitching rides to School and Work… I learned quick that Money in the Bank is better than Rims, Mud Tires, a System or any other crap that I was spending my hard earned dollar on. As a “Recovery Agent” (Repo Man), I now make a living off other peoples inability to handle their Finances… Rims and Tires are sweet! Just have savings in the Bank when you need it…
@Michael Smith. I learned as a young man myself. I bought my first car at 14 and had it up and running before I got my license. I read the Chilton from cover to cover multiple times. I worked in a auto shop for 10 years but I have always been a gear head. Now the only cars for people who know me or are referred to me. I still enjoy working on cars but farming and woodworking have take up most of my time. I hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for commenting.
What a process ... Gotta change my transmission but it is a C6 and 2 wheel drive in an '86 Ford ... Engine is out so I am looking for an easier swap ... Hopefully ... Thanks for the flush tip ... Had not thought of that.
I’m currently in the process of doing this myself, nightmare of a job alone on the garage floor. But you’re tip for removing the TQ bolts was helpful. Middletown CT here
That sucks beyond belief to do a project like that laying on my back. The simplest of tasks are a nightmare with not only rust chips falling in the eyes but also EARS! Headrush, neckpain, lack of levelheadedness! But you sure knocked that out of the ballpark and even went above and beyond with the necessary details and TLC
You my friend have the only video of a 5R110W being removed from a 6.0l engine and it is very helpful. I have the unfortunate task of doing this exact same thing since my built trans failed. Awaiting a Rudy 5r110w stage 3. I see bolts on the bell housing that are removed but I thought the trans would just seperate with those undone.. I guess I have to get into that window and undo the internal bolts on the fly wheel as well? Just planning ahead. BTW going to try using ratchet straps and floor jack to remove... Thanks!!!!
Any salvage yard will drain and pull the filter on a transmission before sale... This is standard, typically they tell you. Mine came with a bright orange tag that said just such.
Your transfer case came out a lot easier then mine. But on mine someone previously loctited all the bolts on the transfer and put loctite on the surfaces that mate to the transmission Iam just glad they didn't loctite all the bellhousing bolts too😖
Hey Bearded Familyman, great to see a Connecticut guy making this video. Maybe you can help me with an issue I have? I was recently replacing a transfer case and extension housing on a 2005 F350 6.0 that is used by the landscaping company I work for (out of Clinton ct). During the removal I found that the transfer case was stuck to the extension housing so my only option was to remove the extension housing and transfer case as one. It turns out someone in the past had jb welded the upper transfer case bolts through the extension housing and into the transfer case (explains the broken bolts and inability to remove separate the transfer case). I ended up replacing the transfer case and extension housing with used units from a junk yard and everything went smooth except when it came time to reinstall the lower trans mount bolts. I found that the mount was too far off to the driver side of the vehicle for the trans mount studs to line up with the holes in the cross member. My solution was to ratchet strap the tail end of the transfer case to the passenger side frame and crank it until the bolts lined up, I then bolted it all together and relieved the strap. All is well and it seems to be working just fine but I would like to know why this could have happened? I feel like the mount should have lined up properly, I did use a new mount as the old one was broken in two but the new one was identical to the old. The only thing I can think it perhaps I damaged a motor mount attempting to remove the transfer case before disconnecting the extension housing at the trans. I had used a come along from the tail/output shaft of the transfer case back to the input shaft of the differential and cranked. Since it never broke free there was a fair amount of force on the whole engine, trans ect. I just thought I would ask if you experienced any issue lining up the trans mount bolts when reassembling?
@Seth Cormier, thanks for the compliment. I haven’t personally experienced problems like that but I would guess that something must be bent or damaged. They normally require a little muscle to get back in but that’s it. I would check the cross member and some of the small supports may be one of those was possibly bent. If there was locktite on the old one that might indicate there was previous damage. I don’t think that’s going to be very helpful but best of luck.
@Patrk Aymod, well if you think you can remove one on the ground in a garage without a lift and just basic hand tools by YOURSELF I’d love to see it. I’d be willing to bet $100 you cant do it.
@@kameronproductions3569 well hope it all goes well for you. Make sure you get the small ratchets and if possible get a ATV jack for pulling the trans and tcase out.
@@beardedfamilyman243 I already got the job done almost, transmissions up in there (new one) just scared that while putting it on, torque converter slid off shaft a little bit or something and is gonna ruin it
@@kameronproductions3569 hopefully it will be ok. I would suggest making sure the converter is all the way back down otherwise you won’t be able to bolt the transmission back in.
Pull the crossmember and transmission.mount then unbolt.transfer case. Much easier. Let trans down about a inch or 2 after case is pulled you can remove.jack
@Frankenstain 4x4 I believe its a o-ring if I'm not mistaken. You can normally buy an o-ring set just make sure its ok to use with the transmission fluid.
I’m about to perform this task on my f350 diesel and all your information and tips are a big help. So thank you. Also how did that trans run from the junk yard cause I’m bout to get one from a yard as well.
@Jay D, I'm glad you found it helpful. The transmission seems to be holding up. I told the owner to take his performance tune off and stop driving it like he stole it everywhere he drives and it will last longer. Best of luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
I appreciate the reply and the info so my issue is how did you rotate the motor to get the torque converter bolts out did you have to remove the glow plugs? And do you have to remove the torque converter? I’ve seen it done both ways.
@@themadtileist , you might have to buy a really small finger ratchet. Thats what I had to do. Here's the set I bought. www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-metric-finger-ratchet-set-18-pc-67973.html Hope that helps and good luck
i just got a used trans and put it in, it seems like it’s closer to the front of the truck and not as far back as the last one used to be, i can tell by nuts that hold the trans to the cross member and i can’t get the oil cooler lines lined up properly…. any ideas anyone?
Hey, I’m swapping my trans tomorrow, do you have to reprogram the trans to work with the ecu or no, when I did one on my bmw I had to rewrite and code the used trans to work with the motor.
@Tyler Prazzo, no you shouldn’t have to program it. If you have a tuner on your rig I would tune it back to stock for a short break in period before towing or pushing it. If you are putting in a used transmission I suggest changing the fluid after 3-5,000 miles to check fluid color and for possible metal or other problems. Best of luck and I hope the video helps.
@@beardedfamilyman243 $6.99 for a 13mm gear wrench from ace hardware was money well spent. I’ll be using it again tomorrow as I’m finally putting the transfer case back on. Thanks a lot!
@NUFF SAID, I removed the transmission cooler lines and blew them all out. I replaced the transmission cooler itself as well. I used brake clean and my compressor to clean everything out.
@@nuffsaid6807 definitely flush the lines until you’ve got good clean fluid coming out. Especially if your removing a bad transmission. Last thing you want is metal in a new one. Thanks I’m glad you enjoyed the video and I hope it was helpful. Best of luck.
@myz383, there are bolts on the under side of the frame that have factory metal tabs to keep them from spinning. I have seen those tabs break off which really makes it difficult to get into the bolts out. You might have to get channel locks on the nut side of the bolts to get them out. Hopefully that helps.
You’re one heck of a neighbor for helping that young man! Thanks for the video!
@Matt Morrison, Thanks. It's important for us to help eachother when we can. Glad you liked the video.
Great video! In the middle of doing this myself on my garage floor as well lol. I couldn’t get a straight shot at the torque converter nuts due to the rear cover, so I ended up using a 1/4” ratchet with a 1/4-3/8” adapter and a 14mm crows foot. It did the trick!
@tough96250, I am glad you liked the video and found it helpful. Best of luck with your swap!
This is a good lesson for a young kid. In High School, the Rear End in my First truck went out and I didn’t have the money to fix it. For almost a month and a half, I was stuck walking or hitching rides to School and Work… I learned quick that Money in the Bank is better than Rims, Mud Tires, a System or any other crap that I was spending my hard earned dollar on. As a “Recovery Agent” (Repo Man), I now make a living off other peoples inability to handle their Finances… Rims and Tires are sweet! Just have savings in the Bank when you need it…
@Michael Smith. I learned as a young man myself. I bought my first car at 14 and had it up and running before I got my license. I read the Chilton from cover to cover multiple times. I worked in a auto shop for 10 years but I have always been a gear head. Now the only cars for people who know me or are referred to me. I still enjoy working on cars but farming and woodworking have take up most of my time. I hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for commenting.
What a process ... Gotta change my transmission but it is a C6 and 2 wheel drive in an '86 Ford ... Engine is out so I am looking for an easier swap ... Hopefully ... Thanks for the flush tip ... Had not thought of that.
Great tutorial couldn't have done it without this video thanks again
@benniebarbour6524, I’m glad you found the video helpful and you were able to get your finished. Best of luck!
I need you as a neighbor lol. Great work!
I’m currently in the process of doing this myself, nightmare of a job alone on the garage floor. But you’re tip for removing the TQ bolts was helpful. Middletown CT here
@raymccarter3542 I hope the video was helpful and best of luck. If you hit any snags feel free to reach out I will help if I can.
That sucks beyond belief to do a project like that laying on my back. The simplest of tasks are a nightmare with not only rust chips falling in the eyes but also EARS! Headrush, neckpain, lack of levelheadedness! But you sure knocked that out of the ballpark and even went above and beyond with the necessary details and TLC
Nice work!!!! Thank you.👍👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
@Grumpy G, thank you and I’m glad you liked the video. I hope it was helpful.
You my friend have the only video of a 5R110W being removed from a 6.0l engine and it is very helpful. I have the unfortunate task of doing this exact same thing since my built trans failed. Awaiting a Rudy 5r110w stage 3. I see bolts on the bell housing that are removed but I thought the trans would just seperate with those undone.. I guess I have to get into that window and undo the internal bolts on the fly wheel as well? Just planning ahead. BTW going to try using ratchet straps and floor jack to remove... Thanks!!!!
@FaSTurbo, I'm glad you found it helpful. Best of luck with your swap. If you have any questions feel free to ask and I will do what I can.
dude no filter WTH, Good think you checked. Which is a must when your rocking a uses transmission. Your a good dude, always willing to help.
Any salvage yard will drain and pull the filter on a transmission before sale... This is standard, typically they tell you. Mine came with a bright orange tag that said just such.
Your transfer case came out a lot easier then mine. But on mine someone previously loctited all the bolts on the transfer and put loctite on the surfaces that mate to the transmission
Iam just glad they didn't loctite all the bellhousing bolts too😖
@jm farms, I was pretty lucky with this removal for sure. Definitely have to say I won’t be doing another one on my back if I can avoid it.
Hey Bearded Familyman, great to see a Connecticut guy making this video. Maybe you can help me with an issue I have? I was recently replacing a transfer case and extension housing on a 2005 F350 6.0 that is used by the landscaping company I work for (out of Clinton ct). During the removal I found that the transfer case was stuck to the extension housing so my only option was to remove the extension housing and transfer case as one. It turns out someone in the past had jb welded the upper transfer case bolts through the extension housing and into the transfer case (explains the broken bolts and inability to remove separate the transfer case). I ended up replacing the transfer case and extension housing with used units from a junk yard and everything went smooth except when it came time to reinstall the lower trans mount bolts. I found that the mount was too far off to the driver side of the vehicle for the trans mount studs to line up with the holes in the cross member. My solution was to ratchet strap the tail end of the transfer case to the passenger side frame and crank it until the bolts lined up, I then bolted it all together and relieved the strap. All is well and it seems to be working just fine but I would like to know why this could have happened? I feel like the mount should have lined up properly, I did use a new mount as the old one was broken in two but the new one was identical to the old. The only thing I can think it perhaps I damaged a motor mount attempting to remove the transfer case before disconnecting the extension housing at the trans. I had used a come along from the tail/output shaft of the transfer case back to the input shaft of the differential and cranked. Since it never broke free there was a fair amount of force on the whole engine, trans ect. I just thought I would ask if you experienced any issue lining up the trans mount bolts when reassembling?
@Seth Cormier, thanks for the compliment. I haven’t personally experienced problems like that but I would guess that something must be bent or damaged. They normally require a little muscle to get back in but that’s it. I would check the cross member and some of the small supports may be one of those was possibly bent. If there was locktite on the old one that might indicate there was previous damage. I don’t think that’s going to be very helpful but best of luck.
Just so you know, on the drivers side of the plate that the trans bolts to there's another access hole so you don't have to fight the oil pan!!
Where?
You took that transmission out the hardest way I’ve ever seen someone do it lol
@Patrk Aymod, well if you think you can remove one on the ground in a garage without a lift and just basic hand tools by YOURSELF I’d love to see it. I’d be willing to bet $100 you cant do it.
@@beardedfamilyman243 I just did it on gravel 😂 with one jack. Just scared I fucked something up so watching videos before I start it
@@kameronproductions3569 well hope it all goes well for you. Make sure you get the small ratchets and if possible get a ATV jack for pulling the trans and tcase out.
@@beardedfamilyman243 I already got the job done almost, transmissions up in there (new one) just scared that while putting it on, torque converter slid off shaft a little bit or something and is gonna ruin it
@@kameronproductions3569 hopefully it will be ok. I would suggest making sure the converter is all the way back down otherwise you won’t be able to bolt the transmission back in.
Pull the crossmember and transmission.mount then unbolt.transfer case. Much easier. Let trans down about a inch or 2 after case is pulled you can remove.jack
How did you end up getting the top bellhousing bolts out in the middle of this job myself looking for advice on those thanks in advance
@jordanlouden8265, the top bolts can be removed by using a lot of extensions and going behind the motor from under the hood.
Question in the same said that you have the oil cooler what is that sensor for my is leaking from there , thanks
@Frankenstain 4x4 I believe its a o-ring if I'm not mistaken. You can normally buy an o-ring set just make sure its ok to use with the transmission fluid.
I’m about to perform this task on my f350 diesel and all your information and tips are a big help. So thank you. Also how did that trans run from the junk yard cause I’m bout to get one from a yard as well.
@Jay D, I'm glad you found it helpful. The transmission seems to be holding up. I told the owner to take his performance tune off and stop driving it like he stole it everywhere he drives and it will last longer. Best of luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
I appreciate the reply and the info so my issue is how did you rotate the motor to get the torque converter bolts out did you have to remove the glow plugs? And do you have to remove the torque converter? I’ve seen it done both ways.
@@jayd1102 , you can easily turn the motor over with a 1/2 breaker bar. I can't remember the bolt size though.
@@beardedfamilyman243 in place of the 18mm wrench you used? It’s all I have left to get her out 😂😅
@@themadtileist , you might have to buy a really small finger ratchet. Thats what I had to do. Here's the set I bought. www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-metric-finger-ratchet-set-18-pc-67973.html
Hope that helps and good luck
i just got a used trans and put it in, it seems like it’s closer to the front of the truck and not as far back as the last one used to be, i can tell by nuts that hold the trans to the cross member and i can’t get the oil cooler lines lined up properly…. any ideas anyone?
@anic6802, did you not compare them prior to swapping?
@@beardedfamilyman243 got it all figured, had a buddy thread the lines in , all working now
Hey, I’m swapping my trans tomorrow, do you have to reprogram the trans to work with the ecu or no, when I did one on my bmw I had to rewrite and code the used trans to work with the motor.
@Tyler Prazzo, no you shouldn’t have to program it. If you have a tuner on your rig I would tune it back to stock for a short break in period before towing or pushing it. If you are putting in a used transmission I suggest changing the fluid after 3-5,000 miles to check fluid color and for possible metal or other problems. Best of luck and I hope the video helps.
@@beardedfamilyman243 thank you very much, I’m doing it right now and your video is very helpful!
What size wheel and tire combo is that? Offset?
@Mr Sincere, I’m not sure since this isn’t my truck.
You must of pulled the starter or he didn't have one on there?
@Drowendln AfterBirth, No I didn't have to pull the starter for this repair.
How long did this process take you ?
@Matt Chuol, total time was about 10 hours or so.
How tf did you access all this tcase bolts without dropping everything down a bit??
Nvm lol “13mm ratcheting wrench is a must!”
@Just Tired, definitely get a small ratcheting wrench. If you can find one they make a finger one that’s round and about the size of a silver dollar.
Bearded familyman how much did he spend for that trans?
@@beardedfamilyman243 $6.99 for a 13mm gear wrench from ace hardware was money well spent. I’ll be using it again tomorrow as I’m finally putting the transfer case back on. Thanks a lot!
@@chaser1357 I believe under $1,000
Did u have to reprogram the tcu?
@Scott W, this truck did have a tuner on it so I changed it back to factory settings but that’s the only thing I had to change.
Can you show us how you flushed the lines??
@NUFF SAID, I removed the transmission cooler lines and blew them all out. I replaced the transmission cooler itself as well. I used brake clean and my compressor to clean everything out.
@@beardedfamilyman243 ok thank you ...its what I need to do. Great video btw
@@nuffsaid6807 definitely flush the lines until you’ve got good clean fluid coming out. Especially if your removing a bad transmission. Last thing you want is metal in a new one. Thanks I’m glad you enjoyed the video and I hope it was helpful. Best of luck.
Did u have to support the engine while the transmission was out
@Scott W, no you don’t have to support the motor the motor mounts will do that job just fine.
How do you pull the transmission cross member. I’m having a lot of trouble.
@myz383, there are bolts on the under side of the frame that have factory metal tabs to keep them from spinning. I have seen those tabs break off which really makes it difficult to get into the bolts out. You might have to get channel locks on the nut side of the bolts to get them out. Hopefully that helps.
Funny, installing transmission and work in power plant aalso
@alx9018, I’m lucky to enjoy work and work at home. Hope you enjoyed the video.