Laminating Sides Beau Hannam Guitars and Ukuleles
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- My method for laminating sides.
GLUES-
I use Titebond 1 (redcap) as I don't have to wear gloves as you have to when using Epoxy or the Gorilla poly foaming glue stuff. It all works. Epoxy has the benefit of having no water content (hence why i use it the glue the fingerboard to the neck) but as i don't get any problems laminating sides with T1 i don't find it necessary to use epoxy.
WOOD THICKNESSES--
There is no correct (or even best) thicknesses but I use thinner pieces for ease of hand bending.
My total side + solid lining thickness is about 8mm which is what typical single sides + factory kerfed linings are.
~ My typical layup is 0.070" outer (1st), 0.060" middle (2nd) and 0.020" (3rd) inner veneer.
~ Some luthiers do 0.080" and 0.080" or 0.050" and 0.20"
~ Other luthiers do a 0.070" outer, a 1/4" thick inner kerfed core and 0.020" veneer (for a total of about 8mm)
~ PS- Torres did just one side of 0.040"!!!- super thin.
2 or 3 PLY??
~ I do both.
~ I only do 3 ply if the 2nd layer doesn't match the 1st outer layer. So if my 1st outer layer is rosewood, and my second layer is mahogany, I would add a 3rd layer of rosewood veneer to vaguely match the outer. (you could also stain the mahogany a darker rosewood colour but that can get messy).
~ If I did a brazilian rosewood 1st outer layer and an indian rosewood 2nd layer, I would probably leave it at a 2 ply.
~- if the 1st layer is koa and the 2nd layer is rosewood, i would add a 3rd inner layer of something like maple (which would get some golden shellac), or mahogany or even some plain koa veneer- just anywood to vaguely match the general color of Koa.
~ Some do a black 3rd layer which can look nice but I like the inside back to vaguely match the inner sides if you are glancing at it.
In this video i had Paulownia (1st) + indian rosewood (2nd), so to match it up I added a maple 3rd inner.
CAULS-
There are many ways go about using cauls- Thin strips of plywood with cork, segments of the shape, or a full inner caul- I've used all- the full inner caul is best but takes a bit of work to fit correctly and you are locked in to the side thickness. I would suggest using the strips of ply until you know what side thickness you like.
You can also use a vacuum bag- but I don't and never have so I can't comment on it other then saying that the pics I see of other luthiers using the vacuum method make it seem like it is an excellent way to "clamp". It seems it costs between $500-$1000 (pump, bags, all the bits) to get set up with a vacuum clamping so ill stick with lo tech cauls for now.
Luthier of luxury heirloom quality guitars and ukuleles.
www.beauhannam...
So I was having a bit of anxiety watching. I kept thinking “he’s not clamping fast enough!!” 🤘🏻 Well done.
hahaha- all went well
Beau, this was a great vid, I learned a lot I’m going too try to build my first acustic guitar this summer & I think I will try laminating the sides, I also just noticed that you used plywood for the heel block is that something you always do?? Thanks Beau.
Thanks- I think you meant I use plywood for the end block?- I always use best quality birch ply for the end block because drilling a 1/2" pickup hold in a piece of mahogany isn't a good idea when that piece of wood holds the entire thing together.
If you ment i use ply for the heel block extension - SOmetimes I use the same birch ply, but I have no preference for that- whatever is convenient to use at the time.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Yea Beau, I meant too say end block & I understand & agree with you regarding drilling a 1/2” hole for the pickup, Also I think that Baltic birth ply is probably more stable than using a solid wood block & a bit lighter in weight. Thanks Beau for all of your time.
Very interesting Beau. Really clean results when you’re finished. Do you always use laminated sides? Thanks.
Always for the last few years.
Hey Beau, for your laminated sides, let's say a 2 ply, are you sourcing each ply from a veneer supply, or are you thickness sanding wood to your specified thickness from sides sold as a set? Tia, erin
For the outside layer- its a normal set of guitar or uke sides sanded a touch thinner- for the 2nd lay , i either use think .060" veneer or I bandsaw and make it from some stable cheaper tonewood. Ive even used poplar. I add a 3rd thin veneer to the very indie if the 2nd layer doesn't match teh outer.
Hi Beau, Do you still put side braces in the guitar with laminated sides, or is splitting no longer a concern due to the lamination?
HI 51punk- Side braces are not needed on laminated sides- Not having to spend time putting side braces in makes up some of the time (along with the sides being flatter so less sanding any corrugations out) lost from the extra time it takes to make the laminated sides.- i think it all comes out about even in the end, time wise.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Thanks very much for the info mate. Great video
thank you Beau . pardon me but how thick is each lamination and why the rose wood in the middle . is there a reason for 3 kinds of wood for the lamination . thank you
I will add the answers those questions in description.
What is the thickness of each layer, in mm please? And thanks for your channel. Both entertaining and very informative.
My outer is about 0.070” (1.7mm) and the 2nd and 3rd layers are about 0.060” (about 1.5mm).
The thicknesses don’t really need to be followed- just make the outer one think enough not to sand through it and all other layers thick enough to get the stiffness (or any other effect) you desire.
Interesting! What thicknesses for ukuleles 2 and 3 ply? Have you ever run the center ply grain in 3 ply at 90deg to the other two ? Listening to the sound of you handling the laminated sides they sound very stiff and hard.
HI- Well, the short answer is that the sides can be any thickness you want. THe longer answer is my outer side is usually about 0.070" and the second inner layer is usually .060" but anything between 0.050"-.070"- whatever is convenient to use really. If i use a 3rd layer, its always a 0.020" veneer (just to vaguely match the inner look with the outer look)
@@BeauHannamGuitars Thicker than what I was expecting for a ukulele but jibes with what you said previously regarding sustain. Thanks !
what clamps do you use here?
Just Typical clamps- like these- amzn.to/3NWrSl0
@@BeauHannamGuitars Thanks!
I wonder if gluing the cork blocks to the foam pad would speed things up?
I always enjoy your vids, very informative!
the cork on the ply strips is a good way to be able to work with different thickness woods- if you make a one piece caul- you are locked in.
Is better lamitaded or solid?
i like laminated for various reasons
@@BeauHannamGuitars what reasons?
@@marcorojas1130 Stiffness and mass effect sound
@@BeauHannamGuitars ok, thanks for your comments
Great videos, very inspiring and usefull
While you are clearly a gifted (and famous) luthier, your presentation skills need tweaking. I suggest having everything you need within reach on an uncluttered bench and a thorough outline of what you intend to say, in logical order. You editorial and sidebar comments can be much more useful if spoken deliberately, focused and free of extraneous verbiage. Your quick commentary on the quality of clamps is a case in point. Your video is useful and quite effective, but could be much more powerful with an organized, deliberate presentation.
HI Kevin. Thanks and I agree. While this video was filmed/posted only 2 years ago, it is a different type of video to what I present now. This video isn't even edited!!! I now give a more "deliberate presentation". Time lapse video with voice overs speed things up too- and, cough....editing!!! Hahhahaha
@@BeauHannamGuitars I hope I didn't come on too strongly. I was a shop teacher for 33 years. Doing demonstrations is first nature to me. A admire your work and the international acclaim and recognition that you have achieved. While I doubt that I will ever rise to as similar position, I have built for 30 years and work only in northeastern American hardwoods for necks and bodies; 141 of them so far.
@@thepragmaticluthier - You gave great advice and thanks. I'm taking youtube videos more seriously now than 2 years ago (I might as well edit them and have good lighting and audio!!!!). Some jobs are still best left unedited to show how fast one needs to work to get it done. Sometimes I still post real time videos the length of which is instructional.
Cheers (you know anywhere to get figured Narra in the US???- its my favorite neck wood)
honestly i disagree- it's nice to see the whole process and gives me a good example for what I might run into. just personally
@@galenhanlyhefferman8764 it’s always a choice between short punchy videos that tend to get more of views , vs longer videos with more info that bore 99.99% of people.