How to Install a Bathroom Extractor Fan - Complete DIY Guide Made Easy
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 10. 05. 2024
- In this DIY guide i will be showing you how to install a bathroom extractor fan. I will take you through the process step by step and we will cover everything from extractor fan wiring to duct and vent installation. You will learn how to wire up a fan isolation switch and so much more in this one video. If you like the video then leave a like, please subscribe for more content like this and check out the other videos on my channel.
Products i recommend for this job!
đ” Manrose Inline Fan - amzn.to/3UD8sGF
đ” Ceiling Vent - amzn.to/3WIbs7g
đ” Soffit Vent - amzn.to/3QJIyjt
đ” Isolation Switch - amzn.to/3UUxvqa
đ” Insulated Ducting - amzn.to/3QC10uk
đ” Dade - amzn.to/3UzQK6X
đ” Holesaw 102mm - amzn.to/4abb701
đ” Loft Suit - amzn.to/3URzfR4
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This one was tough to film, hope you find it useful. Please sub if you like the content đ
Working in lofts is the worst believe me.. All the hard work & effort is Much much appreciated. â€
Appreciate all the efforts. Definitely sound from down near my way (Norwich).
One tip I picked up for CRJ Electrical channel is to put rubber grommets (the type you use in metal back boxes) under the 4 mounting points of the fan and then screw the fan down - reduces vibration noise.
Sounds like a great tip that and something Iâve never done đ
I do the same but use tap washers.
Do you understand how an AV mount works? What he does with the grommets achieves nothing, still amazing what useless information you can find on YT
You can also take two pieces of ply screw the first to a joist and attach the second on top with beaded silicone lowers the amount of vibrations through to the joist
It's almost like you know what I need to do in our house! đ€Ł
Another brilliant and easy to follow guide. Thank you DIY King đ
I've had the same fan since we bought our house 7 years ago. It's in the attic... in the box it came in, yet to be installed. Maybe after watching this, I'll finally install the bloody thing! đ
Hah do it! đ
Same here, only - 4-yrs though..
Now I know the manual shows flexible ducting but.... Air ducting is always better when the inside of the duct is smooth. For such a short run I'd have been using 4" tube with an insulated wrapper. the rough surface in flexible ducting slows down the air travel, it causes turbulence and reduces the efficiencies of the fan. Perhaps not a problem for this install since it's a short run, but worth using a couple of lengths of tube between flexible angle joints. Cracking video, and I could feel your pain filming in that heat... đđ
I dont understand why the tube has to be insulated - isnt it just taking the air outside. What does the insulation achieve/
@@flyingwhiteindian In the winter if the duct was not insulated it would get very cold and the steam would condensate in the duct before getting outside which is not desirable.
@@flyingwhiteindian Condensation forms and runs back inside. You can get traps to take this away but it's not usually practical.
Thanks!
Great Vid!! Did the same and also included a Back Draught Shutter
I loved how you covered everything from start to finish! đ Whether it's wiring up a fan isolation switch or installing the ductwork, you left no stone unturned.
Glad it was helpful! That was my plan đ
Found this in my feed literally two minutes after my new Manrose fan was delivered... Google knows me too well! đ Some info on condensation traps would be great, but very comprehensive video, great job!
Really well explained and great video . Top job mate
Thank you very much man you have me so much I have a brass pipe I transfer to pvc I was kind of confused and I know what to do I was watching too many videos and you are the only one number one
Thanks for showing this, I've got one to install completely and one to put an external vent on.
Glad I could help đ
Too job .. just what I need .. many thanks
BRILLIANT! Thank you!
You're welcome!
I just want to say thank you so much I was so confused and working in my bathroom right now and I don't know what to do thanks to you I want your video and I'm really happy because I have a brass 5 and I transfer to PVC thank you so much
Good to see you using insulated ducting
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Great video! The explanation of the wiring was fantastically clear. Top marks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Great job done, I know what itâs like working in a loft with loft insulation. Many thanks for the detailed video.
Thanks. Itâs tough especially with a camera đ
Literally just fitted two of these on my current job. I always recommend these to my customers.
Deffo a great fan đ
Very made and edited video. Just what I needed to explain this type of install to my son, I bet he will listen to you far better than for me. Cheers. Time for a cold one.
I appreciate that! Show him and I hope it helps him too!
Great informative video thanks, one of my summer jobs fit loft lighting and a new shower fan and youve covered both in detail thanks so much.
Awesome, thank you!
Fitted one of these manrose fans a couple of years ago and it's so much better than the small inline fan type as you say. My only regret is not upgrading the ducting at the same time to the insulated type. I'll have to get a handyman to do it now as access is so poor into my eaves. Good video and you've got +1 subscriber from me. Cheers
Great video, I know how hard work is in attics, well explained
Thanks, it really was a tough one so thanks for acknowledging that.
Installed one of these 2 years ago. So much more efficient than the usual extractors and quieter too!
Absolutely đ
We just our roof done and install a roof vent tile. Made a big difference the air goes straight up and out. No fiddly bends like before for us.
Nice one đ
I always use ridged pipe stops turbulence and the build up mould in the duct. You said hard to find a fan with that extraction rate but for my downstairs bathroom fan installed over the shower area ridged ducting under the floor board this is the answer
Airflow iCON60 Circular Extractor Fan for Large Bathroom, Utility Room or Kitchen 280mhr/78 ls but itâs a beast!
PS I would get a humidity sensor wired up they do one that will work with that fan works good đđŸ
Great video buddy. Really helpful.
Glad to help đ
Very useful video.. Thank you so much..
Welcome đ
Thanks for the vid..... I've just had my new extractor fitted used solid tubing with a slight fall to the outside vent to drain any condensation to the outside, also added rubber grommets under the fan to minimise vibration, plus removed the flyscreen to prevent build up of fluff/dust and added a backdraught flap which keeps the bathroom draught-free especially in winter.
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I really liked your easily digestible CZcams video!
Well done, Sir!
Thank you very much!
thank you very much for this video this is something we need in our house as it doesn`t have an extractor in our bathroom. i will need an electriction though as i`m not competant enough to do the electrical work. a very good video. thank you.
Glad to help. Definitely give an electrician a shout đ
@@TheDIYGuy1 I will and costing out the parts isn`t that much. once again thanks
Independent of this video, I installed a similar fan about a year ago. It works well. Too well. With it at maximum speed (mine is variable), it is louder than a 747 on a short takeoff roll.
They are good. The sound is more air suction sound rather than fan vibration
Top video mate! Just what i was looking for! Might of been worth adding that the door for the bathroom should be cut back to allow air flow. But over all great video. I will be installing one of these in the summer.
Been putting off replacing my dying fan for a while but it was getting closer! Perfectly timed. Purchased my first house recently and your videos have been insanely helpful. Thank you. :)
Glad to help đ
This video is perfectly timed, I'm ripping out my ensuite and redoing the builders garbage effort (many things wrong including leaks) and I'm putting one of these fans in at the same time đ
Glad I could help!
Great job đđ» helpful wiring diagram, reminds me of your older wiring videos đđ»
Thanks as always đ
Superb detailđ
Thanks a lot đ
You are inspiring me to do the same in my bathroom. I have a wall mounted Envirovent and still have the same issue with condensation on the walls window and mirror
đ go for it. Wall fans arenât the best
These fans need fusing down which I did via a spur with a 3a fuse, I didnât realise that you could get a fused isolator. Live and learn. Great video
Did you have a fan with a timer if so how did you fuse both sw & permanent live
I installed the Timer version of the Manrose fan over the shower and also have an always on version (set to lowest speed) in the main part of the bathroom. Did this late last year and we've had no issues with condesnation, mould or "lingering smells" :) Must admit I'm surprised at how quiet these fans are, no need for anti-vibration measures at all.
Great video đđŒ
Thanks đ
Great video mate
Thanks đ
We had the same setup fitted in our new en-suite recently, itâs outstanding and going to do the same in our new bathroom. Wiring it up is a bit confusing for me though, a job for the spark!
Definitely worth it đ
Great video â€â€
Thank you!!
good job đ
Thanks đ
Excellent đđŒ
Thank you! Cheers!
I fitted one a few years ago, those fans are brilliant. The bathroom had mould when I bought it as the builders in 2005 fitted a pathetic mains fan in the ceiling nowhere near the shower and bodged the ducting and I swear it couldn't hold a sheet of toilet paper up because I tried it! The Manrose can hold a flattened toilet roll middle up! And instead of motor vibration the main noise is the rather more pleasant whoosh of airflow.
Absolutely đ
great video cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
Just used the exact same fan for our bathroom, the performance is amazing. I used solid pipe from the fan out through the gable end, just because I worried about moisture pooling inside a long flexi pipe. I have a small drop on the solid pipe, so it's all downhill to the gable vent.
P.S. the electrics blow my mind, but luckily I have a brother in law who is a sparks who broke it down into simple instructionsđ
Yeah if youâve a long run it was probably the best way đ. Nice work
Great video. It would be nice to have a humidistat option with maybe a wireless humidistat possibly but I suppose this could also be possible with a bit of ingenuity.
"inshulation" this vid was really helpful thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Lovely video, keep up the good content.
Thank you! Will do!
Another Informative videođ€đ€đ€
Glad you think so!
Great video again dude. Keep up the good work. Shane
Thanks! Will do!
I've installed one of these, but only after first buying the version without a timer - so be aware that that exists. It didn't even cross my mind that they wouldn't have a timer, thus didn't check the spec, like you wouldn't check the spec of a car to check it has a steering wheel! Screwfix brilliant as ever and exchanged it for the (more expensive) timer version. I've also turned mine down to the lowest power setting as thats fine, and it was surprisingly noisy on medium or high.
how to electrical wiring is my interest, Thanks!
You are welcome
Is it possible to do the same set up but to also have a humidistat that triggers the fan as well as the light switch and overrun feature?
Would having the vent above the shower not cause a cold draft coming down when showering , say if you don't put the lights on in winter? Would being slightly further from where you stand be better?
Just a tip for the less powerful fans, with the duct work I would always recommend using solid ductwork as opposed to flexi. Better air flow, less resistance, less dirt and bacteria captured over time, Also undercut the door to allow make up air.
đ thanks for sharing
You got yourself a sweaty subscribe!
Haha thanks a lot đ
đđđ. Thank you
Welcome đ
Good job đ need to install one myself. i always wonder why do i have to turn on the lights for the extractor fan to spin. Is it not better just to have another swich for it and just turn on the fan with no light after the shower is done? Is it something to do with building regulations?
We use the Ventaxia version of these where I work in a theatre to pump smoke onto the stage. They're more expensive but much quieter.
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i wish you lived near me . a good tradesman is hard to find. Love watching your videos đ
Thanks, appreciate the support
TOP VID AND INSTALL. Can we use this install in a cubicle approx 90cm x 9cm with standard ceiling construction?
The fan isolator should be mounted in the loft next to the fan to comply with the uk wiring regulations bs7671.
Very clear explanations, thanks that's not easy to do.
I might be able to fit a soffit vent if I can remove one brick from the top of the 9" solid wall in-between roof rafters otherwise the gap between the roof and wall is too narrow and would constrict the air flow.
Are tile vents reliable or problematic, I recall you mentioning a condensation trap is needed, but do tile vents typically leak or cause other issues after some years?
The gable end is solid wall so not as easy and would need a long run of ducting which probably would reduce performance.
Any advice/recommendations appreciated, I really would like an in-line fan if I can get around the obstacles.
Thanks.
Tile vents are fine if done correctly. But they involve some work! They cause issues if no condensation trap is used otherwise should be fine. Could you solid duct to your gable end? That may be a solution
@@TheDIYGuy1 I should of said the loft is boarded and used for storage so unfortunately not a straight run of ducting it would need to go round the perimeter so at least two 90 degree bends and at least 9 metres long as it's the other side of the house. I'm guessing the fan would struggle and I'd need to wrap the solid ducting to insulate it.
Is there a cover with a built in led light along with the exhaust
Nice video and very well explained regarding the wiring.
I'm sure I read somewhere that you shouldn't put extractor fan inlets and smoke detectors in the corners of rooms due to how air flows in a room.
đ thanks, never had a problem myself with this position but Iâd like to hear if anyone has.
Smoke detection should be 1M in from walls where possible and installed flat, as smoke rolls.
Extract ventilation is sited more source specific, like over baths/toilets, in front of cooking areas etc.
By putting the valve in the corner you do restrict the air flow, however in this scenario the difference would be negligible
How did you get the 4 core from the fan into the back of the fan isolation switch, did you drill up from the back of the back box?
After securing to a board, i suspended the fan on bungees to stop any noise coming through .
Did you not need a back fraught eliminator or is there in already in the fan ?
Hi can we use some other things for ducting ?
What is the airflow restriction caused by the rippled pipe?
Hey DIY Guy, would you recommend an inline non return backdraft shutter thing with these Manrose fans, or is it unnecessary?
I might need info on a condensation trap. I have 2 bathrooms that need this, but the bathrooms are stacked.
In the main floor I could potentially exit through the brick house wall but kinda would prefer not to do so.
Other options might be routing DOWN in the wall to basement, where I care much less about cutting a hole in the foundation wall near the ground outside.
Or I could possibly snake the flex duct up and through the upstairs bathroom wall and into the attic and roof, same as for the upstairs bath.
Not looking forward to any of it.
Drill a hole from the attic to more easily locate the center of where you want the hole saw to cut.
Good idea that đ
Donât want your bathroom being hoo-mid do you đ excellent vid as always đ
Haha thanks đ
I only came here to see who commented on "hoo-mid".
if only those fans could connect to a smart home system.... combined with a humidity sensor in the bathroom... the overrun could then be controlled by the humidity in the room and not just a fixed timer. Great vid as always.
Great point! Thanks
I recently fitted a inline bathroom fan and fused it down to 3a as per manufacturers instructions (this is their get out clause in case of problems) you could make up a multi gang switch plate to fuse both line and switch line together with a three pole isolater but it gets a bit over the top and messy. The best solution I found was fit a smart switch cheap as chips which is linked to Alexa and I find this the very best for complete control over overrun I just ask Alexa to switch on the fan and on it goes for 20 minutes you can alter the settings by just asking Alexa â turn on fan for xx minutesâ and of course you donât need to have the fan running at all for a trip to the loo at 3am. Probably not the best solution for a enclosed bathroom where I would guess a light linked fan would be required but in my situation this works the best.
I would like to use a smart switch/relay to control the fan based on a humidity sensor, rather than having the switched live from the light switch. Do building regs require the isolator power to come from the light switch?
The sweat alone is worth a like⊠ahahahâŠ. I liked.
Haha cheers!
An observation- the Wago 221 connectors should be used with the Wago 221-4 junction box with the 3 compartments to be maintenance free (although yours is accessible in the loftspace). The Wago box with the 2 compartments at the end like yours is for the 772 and 333 connectors for a maintenance free connection, just in case someone uses the wrong combination and hides it under floorboards or in a wall. The 2 compartment box can be converted to MF with inserts from Wagođ
Great video, but one little thing worth mentioning is that any electrical requirement in the installation instructions for any accessory need to be adhered to in order for the installation to be compliant with wiring regulations, and most of these shower fans call for 3A fusing on both the permanent and live cores - so the usual 6A MCB for the lighting radial isn't sufficient for compliance. I usually install a separate single backbox next to the isolator with a 2-way grid plate containing two fuse holders fitted with 3A fuses. It's an added expense and arguably overkill, but technically needs to be done in order to make the installation 100% compliant.
Its interesting how you Brits do wiring. I would just put the fan on its own switch and be done with it. Weâve got timer switches to regulate what you refer to as overrun.
There's nothing to prevent fans being on their own switch in the UK. My house was built with separate switches for light and fan.
Does that insulated ducting really make a difference?
Hi, thanks for the video, I did not notice you making any comment on the type of fan you must use depending on the zone in the bathroom you have the fan sited.
Zoning is for electrical equipment mounted in a given zone. He's not installed any electrical equipment in a zone.
Nice one! Out of interest how did you get the cable from the box you cut in up into the loft space?
Thereâs an airing cupboard behind the back box, drilled through into there and then up into the loft space. Alternatively Iâd of just chased the wall out up to the ceiling.
Just a heads up, I am an electrician and if it says in the instructions to fit a 3 amp fuse make sure you do it, a few years ago there was a fire caused by a fan and because the electrician didnt fit a 3 amp fuse the insurance company woildnt pay out, the electrician also ended up going to court and lost everything.
I think in all the years I have been an electrician I have only ever seen one extractor fan which didnt need to be fused down but I can't remember what make it was.
Almost all lighting circuits are protected by a 6amp mcb, some houses have 10amp mcb on lighting.
The Manrose MF100T instructions state it must be fitted to a circuit with a 3A fuse. 18th edition states manufacturer's instructions are taken into account for electrical installation.
I use a double pole fused spur as the isolator with a 3A fuse fitted and a double pole light switch so the lighting circuit and extractor circuit are switched separately when installing these.
Good idea! No need for the fan to always come on when you're just popping in for a quick pee!
@@jayseabie215 for that you'd probably want to fit a humidistat
Click make a fan switch that has a 3amp fuse built in, the vast majority of fans will require a 3amp fuse, there are not many on the market that don't
Always better to have a seperate fused spur for fan, hate it integrated with and dependent on light switch
@@bertbox69 personally I am not keen on timed fans, if you want a shower or bath in the daytime you either have to have the lights on or flick the lights on or off, a separate on off switch is best.
Hi Cameron great video as always, was wondering if you wanted to use the extractor without the light on, would a fused spur powered from the ring main be acceptable?
Yes- but a better option would be change your bathroom switch to a 2 gang. Have the lights on one switch, and the fan on another.
@@TheRCBiker Thanks for the reply đ
Ok so next to the bathroom isolator switch I have a box where 2 wires from the ceiling go into it says transformer on a bit inside the box and there is a red light that comes on when I turn on the isolator switch any idea on what to do đđ»
Awesome video ,I've been planning to do my own extractor fan in my bathroom .... Just one thing, do you treat or seal the plaster board ceiling after cutting the hole for the vent? I seen you put sealer on the vent guide but did you do anything to the actual plaster board?
Hi, glad you like it. No, nothing further done to the plasterboard
can I do this as a diyer under the P certification, or do I need an electrician? I'm not totally sure because it is a bathroom, and not sure if the new wiring is considered as new circuit.
Excellent video anyway, I just bought my first home, and I suscribed to your channel as it is really useful
Hi, have you got a video about taking out old (not in use) cables from around the house?
Iâve had a look online & thereâs not a lot out there
I donât, but I could đ
Love your videos mate! Constantly entertaining đ, just a quick one your soffit looks like AIB, if youâve had them tested then fair enough but just for your health be sure because itâs a big killer. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks, Good point! But in this case itâs not asbestos. Will do thanks đ
Ok thatâs great đ
Agree with OP, maybe a quick warning about possible asbestos containing materials at the beginning?
If it prevents 1 exposure it will be worth it imo?
Thank you for the video. I am about to try DIY installing something quite similar myself :) The part which confused me a bit is, dont we need a back draft shutter?
Your welcome. In my experience you only need a backdraft shutter if your installing on a gable end, not normally needed on a soffit install
@@TheDIYGuy1 ahh ok, thank you.
You may need a fly screen but back draft shouldn't be an issue in this case.
How do you go about cleaning one of these style extractor fans? Mine looks to be filled with dust and Iâm having issues with a mouldy ceiling. Can still hold a piece of paper up, but I see lots of dust through the grill.
Pop the top off and give it a wipe out
@@TheDIYGuy1 no need to worry about the ducting then?
Hi mate, I wonder if you can help me, I have a 2 way switch controlling one light on my hall way, I want to remove the second switch so the light is just controlled by the one switch, if I remove the linking cable am I right in thinking I will need to rewire the other switch so the light still works? Thanks mate
The way 2-way light circuits usually work (in the UK) is by linking L1-L1, L2-L2 and C-C in both switches and putting the two wires from the ceiling rose across L1 and L2 in one of the switches. If the switch you want to keep is the one with the ceiling rose connection then you can remove the link cable and move one of the ceiling rose wires to C. You may have the neutral in the switch box if you don't have ceiling roses but it should still have the connection to L1/L2 after removing the link cable and move one to C.
Did I not need the 6A fuse way? I did this with virtually identical but different make fan. I thought you had to put a 6a fuse on the fan. I struggled as DIY to get my head past the switch live not been 6A fused so I spurred off the the loop and put the light and fan through the 6A fuse way. My over-run fixed at about 25 mins, would look at the manrose next time I think 10 minutes would be better.
it should be possible to fully isolate the fan and still have the light working (although this may not apply if there's a window). Only the fan has to be protected if the manufacturer requires it (usually 3A, 6A would normally not require extra fuse on a 6A lighting circuit).
Not sure but think this calls for 3 amp protection, lights will be on 6 amp so would need fan switch with 3!amp fuse
I use medium hard rubber spacer standoffs to mount the fan motor. It makes a massive difference to the noise because the board you screw it on acts as a sound board and amplifies the vibration. Easily available from Amazon, etc. Don't know why Manrose don't supply them in the first place!
04:10 - may I ask what kind of wall (material) was that? You drilled it very fast.