How to Flush & Pressure Bleed BMW Brakes
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Learn how to flush BMW brake fluid on the F series (using the m235i). If you changed your brakes or are experiencing some troubles, flushing the fluid might be what you need. We go through the entire process and troubleshoot some issues.
Power bleeder: amzn.to/2MCzSOc
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Fluid Meter: amzn.to/37QvdPN
Thanks to Obsessed studios: / @obsessedus
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Intro - 00:00
Flush without brake change - 00:14
Track Time - 00:32
Issues in the rain - 00:49
Necessary Tools - 01:48
Prep the car and bleeder - 02:34
Start at the rear passenger - 04:51
What if no fluid comes through? - 05:50
Fluid capture and valve closure - 06:19
Rear Driver Caliper - 06:50
Front Passenger Caliper 07:16
Don't forget the second bleeder valve - 07:44
Front driver Caliper - 08:06
Alternative ways to check fluid - 08:11
Detach Bleeder 08:45
Test Fluid and Brakes - 09:05
Cover it up - 09:25
Test Drive - 09:44 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Motive recommend using teflon tape at the brass hose fitting. They also recommend adding new fluid after removing old from the reservoir.
This was sooooo awesome! I’m ready for this DIY because of you, kind sir!
Another great video, I just bought all of the supplies to do this procedure. Amazon Prime FTW! The only recommendation I would make with this video is to use safety goggles and disposable gloves, you do NOT want to get brake fluid in your eyes or on your skin.
I use a MOTIVE POWER BLEEDER in the shop, probably have done around 30-40 flushes with mine! If no fluid comes out I just open the door to the car on the lift/stands and grab a small pole and push on the brake pedal once... works everytime! My suspicion was corrosion in the bleed screws that cause a slight clog/jam, no worries as long as fluid comes out after you pump the pedal once or twice! The techs in the shop took turns feeling the brakes after I first used the motive power bleeder, totally worth the effort and can be done as quick as vacuum bleeding!
doesnt BMW require you to actual the ABS valves electronically in order to complete the flush properly?
Most informative video ever …,
It’s worked like a charm …..
you are now my sensei ..,,
Cheers mate from AUS, Melbourne..!
Just did mine. Worked like a charm. Thank you
Underrated Channel for sure - subbed ❤️
Appreciate it!
good video. I appreciate the extra care not to spill any fluid around!
Thank you! It's definitely something to keep an eye on.
Thanks for the video, been googling how to do this in the past week 👍
No problem 👍 Glad it was helpful
Multumesc frumos pentru informații și va doresc tot binele din lume mitică la toate
Nice Job, This is something I've been needing to do on my car as well. 👍
Thanks! Hope you don't have the brake issue in the rain as I did.
Really good video man. Thanks a lot.
Thank you Fritz, your video is very useful to me! Cheers from Barcelona! :-)
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video
Akebono ceramic pads prevent the BMW brake dust filth and are a major upgrade.
Thanks babe going to do this on my g20
Great video, one question…once you emptied the reservoir, did you add new fluid before pumping the the bleeder to check for leaks?
good video
Thank you 🙏
I'm looking at changing out my brake rotors and pads, should I do the brake flush first then do the pads and rotors?
at around 6', is it common that the fluid got stuck that you needed to pump brakes a few times and raised the pressure of the Motive bleeder? This is the first video revealing this problem. Any idea why?
The extra thing you should do is to tap the caliper with a rubber mallet after bleeding and double chk each screw again. Typically, more bubbles will come out. Repeat til no bubbles. So reading a bit more about order, Outside then inside for old fluid, inside then outside for new fluid bubble chk. The theory of farthest doesn't hold true for this bc the first screw is in-between the master and the second screw if that makes sense lol. Bottom line is when ever you open a line, there should be no bubbles!
how much fluid do you need (ml?) thank you
Nice channel! Very informative video. Do you maybe know the torque spec for the brake nipples?
Not to big a dick, but come on now. How the fuck you gunna get a torque wrench on there. Just close it shut
thank you for the video!! one question, how do you decide when there is no air bobble? is it like keep bleeding it for about how long after you don't see air bobble and decide its done?
yea once you see brake fluid flowing out of the caliper without bubbles you're good
Great video! Have you ever bled the brake fluid from the clutch slave cylinder? Looks like it may be the same fluid and there is a bleeder valve for it.
It is the same fluid. If you were to do it with your brakes I would do it 3rd to last (before the 2 front driver valves). It also requires less pressure.
czcams.com/video/aD3kBXHS5DI/video.html
Remember lads Brake Fluid is radio active to any paint or finish… rinse rinse … water
Bro much fluid do u use??? 2 bottles?
How to reset brake fluid change please ?
Ppl do differ on this but to me, inside first then outside makes more sense for the fronts. Any service manual info on that?
it's outside first per the manual
as a general rule you want to clean the lines furthest from the master cylinder
hence you do the back right first and then you would also do the outside first
Hello mate, I sent you a comment on one of your older videos but you must have not seen it. On the video when you change the charge pipes you said the manual transmision cars has a bung on the vacuum line. Well I have a bmw m2 manual and I dont have the bung, I have the vacuum line going to the intake. I have looked all over the internet for the info but cant find anything. Do you know why?
Sorry about that. Are you referring to the purge valve?
@@FritzRamos hi mate. Love your videos. I dont know if its the purge valve. All I know is when you changed the charge pipe at the top part you said that if you have a manual car there is no vacuum line and its just a bung. And on the automatic cars there is a vacuum line going from the top of the charge pipe to the air intake tube just after the air filter box. My question is, I have a manual bmw m2 so why do I have this vacuum line, what is it for???? I have seen many videos of other youtubers saying the same thing and I don't know why, I have looked it up on the net but cant find nothing, I was hoping you could help me. Thanks
hey man sick vid! quick question, where did you get the moisture meter pen looking device used @1:44 ??? Sooooooo want one.
amzn.to/37QvdPN
@@FritzRamos 🤙
For M Performance brakes (for OG F87 fixed caliper, front 4 pistons, rear 2 pistons, seems to be brembo), the front bleeder screw torque spec 18Nm, rear 10Nm (some say both front and rear are OK with 10Nm). What kind of torque wrench should we use in this case?
The kind that is calibrated for Nm in the range that you specified.... it's not magic
Good job man! Do you love your m235i??
Thank you! You know how it is, there can always be something better, but it's an amazing car. I came from a g37 and never regretted it. I will admit that the g37 does have a better stock exhaust sound.
Would a abs brake bleed with a scan tool be necessary on the f chassis models
Yes, per my mechanic it is the proper way to bleed the brakes as both air and old fluid can remain in the ABS unit. That said, from my recent research I believe some higher end retail OBD scan units have a setting to perform the brake flush and activate the ABS actuators. Would be nice if someone can verify and add some info.
If there are some air between the fluid out from the Motive system that is okay too?
Yes. Mine was like that
Do you think you need to hook a computer to it and bleed the ABS system or is this enough
I suppose if you were to have it done professionally that would be better, but for a daily in California climates this was enough.
BMW requires to actuate the ABS valves electronically in order to complete the flush properly which I think most higher end OBD scanner tools can do as well. Do you skip this step? Would love more info on this.
great question, i'm worried about doing mine but still having the notification on since I don't have any obd reader at all
Im using a Foxwell Elite NT510 which is BMW specific. It activates the ABS system but Id be dammed if I can find someone who does do it so I know at which part of the bleeding Im suppose to do it. But yep just confirming theres cheapers scanners that can do it.
Hey man just reaching out I got my car yesterday and it’s getting close to 40k miles. And I’m trying to find the service intervals and whag I need to do to it. Any insite? And how often do you flush trans fluid?
Unless you are experiencing something wrong nothing big at 40k most things occur at 50 - 60k. I am working on a service interval pdf.
@@FritzRamos can I get that when it’s done?
@@garett2892 Sure, I'll list it for everyone
Fritz have you done the transmission fluid to your car yet
I haven't, but you shouldn't need to change it unless you're doing transmission work. Are you getting a new clutch?
8:11 savage comment on yourself. Now to somehow update the service history!
Thanks or get lasik lol. I did forget to include that. thanks for reminding me
Would you know the torque specs for the bleeder valves on the caliper?
6-7 lbf of torque
10 Nm
Your brake pedal seems to be very firm, mine is very smoochy, is this a sign to bleed the brake ?
It could just be that I was pressing on them with the intention to bottom out. Are your brakes giving you any issues?
@@FritzRamos no issues reported but I dont have full confidence in them at high speed. I got the same calipers as you and I was expecting them to bite and to be sensitive, unfortunately that’s not the case. My base 2020 civic has far greater breaking performance with strong firm pedal.
his car isnt running so brake booster has no vacuum in order to retract
Changing brake fluid, makes a difference.
Sure does!
excellent tutorial, no reason whatsoever to take car to dealership, save money the very first change
It's the unnecessary up-sell you experience when going to the dealer that we all dread...
Be careful not to strip or break the bleeder screws. These cars are a decade old, and the bleeder screws use very mild metal. I broke the one on RR caliper, and will need a new caliper. Don't do what I did. If the screws are not turning, don't force them. This is especially true if you live in salted areas and drive your car in the winter. Save the $1000 caliper bill.
And don’t over torque when reinstalling. Spec is 10 Nm. Threads aren’t what seals and over torquing will deform the tip and make them leak.
To save a $1000 bucks I would have removed the caliper, put it in a mill and performed minor surgery.
If you don't have the equipment or expertise I'd look for a local EDM shop to have them remove it, that's a very common practice with these guy's...
hey boss would you by chance know if it’ll be the same exact process for my 2016 550i?
love the vid!