Has the Mould Come Back - 18 Month Review?
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- 18 months ago I did a video on how to treat and then paint over mould or mold. Today we investigate how effective that treatment really was.
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0:00 Start
0:01 Intro
0:35 Reasons for Mould
2:15 Has it Come Back
3:30 Can you Treat Mould
5:25 Wiping the Walls
5:58 My Conclusions
6:56 Discord Membership
7:00 Mould Treatment Paints
7:35 PIVs
08:48 Subscribing to my channel
Today's Tool Kit
- Sugar Soap Wipes
- Zinsser Mould Killer & Remover Spray
- Zinsser B-I-N 1Ltr geni.us/rMI2 (Amazon)
- Zinsser B-I-N 2.5 Ltr geni.us/lk9Sd (Amazon)
- Zinsser Perma White 1 Ltr matt geni.us/pPX9N (Amazon)
- Zinsser Perma White 2.5 Ltr matt geni.us/Cm3Ci (Amazon)
- Zinsser Perma White 2.5 Ltr satin geni.us/AX1psrb (Amazon)
- Zinsser Mould Killer & Remover geni.us/QNeLT (Amazon)
- Crown Mould Inhibiting Paint bit.ly/3DD0uDM
- Tikkurila Luja 7 bit.ly/3DALPct
- Ronseal 6 Year Anti Mould Paint geni.us/zC3hH6b (Amazon)
- Ronseal 3 in 1 Mould Killer Spray geni.us/YoUdGke (Amazon)
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#mould #treatment #mold - Jak na to + styl
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Do you think I could use this on the back of built in wardrobe's?
I was born in 1947 we lived in a council house with a coal fire. We never had any damp or mould problems. We had an oven in the kitchen linked to the coal fire. My mother often dried clothes on a clothes horse put in front of the oven, and still no damp problems. We didn't have radiators all we had was a back boiler behind the fire to heat the water. Coal fires allowed the house to breathe. Later on, the council fitted a gas boiler and radiators. That's when the problems started, we started getting damp problems, the windows were always damp on the inside. Many years later I had a Housing Association bungalow, due to my health problems. The Housing Association in their great wisdom decided to insulate the loft to the current standard. A damp-proofing firm filled the cavity walls with insulation( pumped in). That was when the bungalow started getting damp problems. Mould started to appear on every wall. It became a constant battle to keep the walls mould-free. The windows were always streaming with water. My wife and I are in our late seventies and in very poor health, I try to keep windows open as much as possible, all the time in summer. We are causing more problems by having our homes over-insulated. The house needs to breathe. Cavity walls were designed to do just that. There is no great mystery as to why people have damp problems. Many people can not afford to heat their homes as due to an incompetent government fuel prices have gone through the roof. People on minimum wages and pensioners on a single basic pension, like myself are struggling to live. In this country, the rich get rich and the poor are forgotten about. The basic pension starts at £130, you don't get far on that. I would like to see if the Prime Minister or our overpaid MPs could survive on what I have to live on. THERE IS NO WAY THEY COULD.
As per my comment yesterday. Thanks 👍
Sounds like a nightmare
@@nyaruko-do2ok The nightmare begins when we start over-insulating our properties and condensation is trapped within the rooms of your home.
over insulating but not ventilating. Insulation is good. No airflow is bad. Stick in vents and fan and ur good to go
In a short while there will be no one left to remember the intense long lasting heat of a coal fire…never any mould in my grandparents house like you say, wishing ironing all sorts going on. Everyone had better get used to being cold in the future, all very well until you get older.
Great video Charlie, good idea to return to this a year on. We live in a listed building with a semi basement that suffered from damp and mould.
We’ve had great success with Wickes Mould Protect emulsion paint which I think is similar to those discussed in your video.
Excellent video Charlie. You have gone to great lengths to explain what you are doing, the materials you have used (along with chatting to the suppliers), the way you have carried out the work and the honest results. This vid is a classic example. You really can't have done more. I'm a handyman and have found your videos soooo helpful. Please do keep posting.
Im so glad you revisited this as ive been rewatching the original video as ive got mould behind my wardrobe, planning on using zinnser BIN
Thanks Jamie. Good luck with the treatment. Make sure you dry the wall fully and after applying the BIN I think a paint that's impervious to moisture and with biocide in like Perma White is important. 👍
Thank you for this video! I was wondering about that. Love your videos. They are really encouraging me to try making things by myself.
You're very welcome. I'm so chuffed my videos are encouraging you to make stuff 👍👏
Thanks for the update Charlie. We moved into a 1969 bungalow a year last Oct which had big condensation issues. We watched your comprehensive video on mould and dehumidifiers.
Bought the EBAC worked fantastically well. The hygrometer gave us all the relevant readings.
The air bricks had no through flow it had been built with no means of air circulating inside, so
It was damp and cold.
New double glazing was fitted this July after which cavity wall insulation was added.That meant having a PIV fitted.It has transformed the bungalow in so many ways.Will be renew the loft insulation next year. Your time and effort over the years would have transformed many projects and always look forward to your finding. I have also passed the info on to others who have also benefited especially those in social housing who now can show evidence to the landlord. I now have a EBAC that i will pass on to a family member as it is not required.Once again many thanks for your time and effort.
Richard great to hear from you. It's so heartening hearing feedback like this. I had a similar air brick issue in my old London house. The mortgage company made certain damp work a requirement of the loan and a few years later I found the company who installed them hadn't bothered to knock them all the way though to the underfloor cavity. You've done everything right there, right down to installing a PIV. So glad to hear it's sorted out all the problems. Must be very satisfying now, living in your wonderfully dry, warm home. You just want to have the odd trickle vent open on the windows now you've got them double glazed, to help the PIV do it's work. 👍
Clear, well edited and balanced video. Excellent. All the best with the next one.
Thanks Dean, really appreciate that 👍
Thanks for the honest revisit!
Lots of DIY videos out there but it is easy to temporarily fix an issue. How a method fairs in the long term is important info we dont often get.
Also, your caulking videos have me producing much better results. Indistinguishable (or better) than jobs I have paid professionals to do.
Thanks so much Matt. It's a long slog doing these vids but comments like this make them worthwhile 🙏👊
I had a constant war with a small patch of wall adjacent to a chimney breast in a previous home, but finally nailed it by freeing up air space and stripping the wall back and treating it before leaving. Glad you sorted it. I just used Damp Seal, by the way. Difficult to apply, but works well.
Thanks Nigel. Yes, great work, and thanks for the tip. Freeing up the air space was the crucial point. 👍
I always look forward to your videos, they're well produced and informative.
Thanks so much Ian, for that and generally for your support of the channel. Couldn't do it without you guys 👊🙏
I really appreciate your videos and help, we have a persistent damp/mould problem from a 1930s house with solid walls upstairs. I’ve gone Zinsser mould killer then BIN where needed after your other vid. The emulsion throughout needed a different approach. Brewers sold me an additive - Owatrol VC175 -so you can keep a paint colour but add a fungicide. Fingers crosses that works … I think it was about £20 that would treat 10L paint.
Iv been a decorator for 27 years iv been treating mould a lot over the past few months and the way you’ve just shown is the correct way. 👍 ventilation is the key, people never got mould back in the day before upvc windows. But still trickle vents could be opened but they never are when I call to treat mould
Glad you revisited. I have issues in the narrow recesses either side of my chimney Brest. Partly caused by the property being empty a lot and therefore not enough general airflow and heating use. Will try the BIN option and hopefully it will mean it buggers off and stops stressing me out. 😂
Excellent news behind the bench! I used your solution and products (as per previous bench video) on a couple of areas that have caused annual hassle and now, so far, not a spot of anything! I will update again in about April next year to see how these areas have fared over the winter months. Thanks again - brilliant thinking, balanced advice, demos and results!
Peter, so glad to hear it's working well on yours. Thanks for the comment 👍
Had exactly the same case as you..followed you're advice..sorted.Even removed backing boards in kitchen floor cupboards..mould gallore..treated and painted..not a trace after 10 months now.Thank you.
Brilliant work Simon. So glad to hear you achieved the same result 👌👏
Phew. So glad as I literally did your treatment to my wall two weeks ago. Glad it was not a waste of time and money.
Glad to hear it Matt. I'm sorry, that title was a bit click baitey 😬 👍
I would ventilate the access panel behind the tumble dryer. Thanks for the revisit of the problem area
Super-thorough. Super-helpful. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome Fran. Thanks for the comment. 🙏
I had a black mold problem after a flood, I treated several times with white vinegar sprayed on and painted over with normal emulsion paint, still ok two years on.
I used to develop antifouling paint for the marine industry. I reckon you are probably right. For the biocide to work it needs to get into the beasties. Could be that the very top layer of paint has depleted it's biocide. So it's efficiency is dropping a bit. Revisit it next year. Suspect it would be a touch worse. In marine the sea water brings the biocide to the surface. Not sure the biocide deeper down this coating will be able to come to the surface to work? Unless the damp does it (which is plausible). Nothing another coat of paint wouldn't fix I reckon.
I followed your advice and used the zinsser combination of BIN and perma white in my bathroom and it has come out brilliant! Great products. . Cheers!
Really glad to hear it Alex. Great work 👍
After watching your original video I used the Zinsser on my office/gym walls, converting it from a disused bedroom that had very bad mould/condensation. After using the mould killer, the walls were left for a month with lots of summer air flowing through the room. I then used the water based Zinsser BIN and the Permawhite. I have to say I am very impressed with the Permawhite, just one coat was enough for me, my only complaint is the smell, it really does wiff! I've also fitted a humidistat extractor fan as there will be a lot of huffing and puffing due to exercise. So it will be interesting to see if any mould forms, but thanks for the information Charlie, your videos are extremely helpful.
Sounds like you did everything spot on there, Mark. I like the fact you used the summer weather to thoroughly dry out the wall before sealing it. BIN is shellac based - presumably that's what you meant? Yes the Perma White is fantastic. It's not surprising it's a bit wiffy given its solvent properties and the biocide, but an acceptable trade off IMO given its benefits. Great work 👍
A very interesting topic and I think you have dealt with it very well. A good anti mould treatment and anti mould paint seems to do the trick.
Thanks Tahir. Yes not ideal in terms of the lack of air circulation but by providing an impermeable surface protected with biocide, there's nothing for the mould to latch onto. 👍
A nice good follow-up review , Great video Thanks Charlie
Thanks for the comment Malcolm. You're very welcome 👍
Thanks Charlie another great informative video 👍🏻
Charlie I used to do 100s of mould treat jobs in my last job. What you have done here is perfect and new mould will always form on the surface due to your poor ventilation and damp shoes ect. If it was coming from the wall it would push through damaging the plaster and showing rot on the skirting. Good video thanks
Thanks Peter, coming from a pro like yourself I really appreciate that endorsement. Good point about the damaged plaster and rotting skirting. I should have mentioned that👊
Yup - I have rising damp in an INTERNAL brick wall. I chiselled off the plaster to about a foot high and let the bricks be bare for several months. The wooden skirting board was rotten on the back side. The floors either side of the wall had been concreted, so I was only able to install DryRods at the level of the TOP of the lowest row of bricks. Months later I replastered the wall down to about 6" above the floor, so about 1 1/2 rows of bricks were still bare, above the DryRods line. Left that for some more months, and then covered the new plaster with Zinsser's Shellac-based sealer paint (the wall was to be re-wallpapered), and fitted plastic skirting boards WITH some ventilation areas so that the damp rising into the very lowest row of bricks could still escape -SLOWLY- into the room. Everything was great for some months, but then eventually the SALTS in the wall burst through the shellac paint! The bricks HAD been treated with salts neutraliser on the other side (in an understairs cupboard). Still not rewallpapered yet - looking for the next thing to try (!)
@@hunchanchoc8418 Tough one ? Maybe (if I read well exactly ‘What’ you did ?) The other side of wall application against salts just forced them to cross the wall to the other side ? Water vapour and therefore salts, has to find a way out ...somewhere ? I am only learning it must be said...it’s a subtle learning curve...Damp that is ...(NOT rising damp !)
@@gortagnan You're probably right. It's disheartening. I'm thinking the only likely 'solution' will be taking the plaster off yet again and installing dimple sheet, and plasterboard over. :-/
Thanks for the update! 👍🏼
Thank you for all your videos. We have just returned to the UK after more than 3 decades in Canada. Your videos provide an amazing resource for our situation. So much as moved on since we were living here before. I noticed in my mother’s 1900 ish terraced house that mould would form where furniture was pushed up against outside walls. So I wonder if one approach would be to design such furniture with some kind of ventilation built in. Perhaps in the case of your bench: holes in the boards at the back? Keep up the good work!
Many thanks, it's a job I have to do soon, so all the info is priceless.
You're welcome Patrick. Thanks for the comment.
I picked up some Mould Wash Concentrate and Anti Mould Paint Additive direct from Permaguard. Cost about £28 inc delivery for both. The great thing about the paint addictive is that you can add it to which ever paint colour you wish and are not restricted to the availability of which ever brand is in the local store. The mould wash works a treat for any surface. I applied both in April and have not even seen an attempted regrowth!
That's great work. Didn't realise you could do that 👌👏
Another great video Charlie, never heard of PIV! 👍
Thanks Brian 👍
Hi Charley , I have used the insulated plasterboard and I think it would be perfect for your location . You could put it straight onto the wall ,making a thermal break which would prevent a cold surface to course a problem Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
My thoughts too.
Yes absolutely and in fact I've done 3 bedrooms upstairs with this. With the wall now warm, the dew point can't be reached and so mould doesn't form. With insulated plasterboard you just have to be careful about potential cold bridging in corners, plug sockets and around the windows. I'm still learning the perfect technique, but got it pretty good in our bedroom where I battened the wall, infilled with 1 inch celotex PIR board, foil taped over the battens and then screwed insulated plasterboard on top. That way there was no cold bridging where you have to cut through the plasterboard for electrical sockets.
Great vid as always. Thank you.
You're welcome Alan. Thanks for the comment 👍
Good job. Love your channel.
As others say don’t apologise for a long video especially when it is well presented and informative. New subscriber. Now to figure out the cost benefit analysis. ps My mum and I were given advice 40 years ago when I had lots of chest infections, the gp said lots of central heated houses are too dry and recommended a bowl of water in the room to humidify the living room. Long before Amazon and those gadgets. Another mystery. Thanks
Thanks, and I really appreciate the sub. Hope you sorted out those chest problems. 👊
Thank you for this I'm going to check mine now 👍👍
Hope it was ok 🤞
Hi Charlie, thanks for these 2 videos, really useful for our window reveals!. Our kitchen cabinets are installed on external walls (no choice unfortunately) and consequently get cold. Walls are old stone with rubble cavity infill. Before the days of youtube I injected a DPC to reduce/eliminate rising damp which helped a lot, and now wish I'd installed insulated plasterboard 😂 During windiest of winter there's a dreaded draft through the kick plate, fine gaps between the carcasses and pipe holes inside the sink cupboard. Good to have airflow but something tells me it's too much and possibly overworking our dehumidifier 😂I think it's blowing down the eaves and out through loose internal render. Tempted to fit loft insulation beneath the cupboards to reduce draft at the kickplate, which should be okay, but wondered what you think about spraying open cell foam between the wall and back of the carcass to fill the service void? Drilling 10mm holes 150mm apart, would allow me to poke the gun through and spray sections working from bottom to top, so it doesn't fall down, the lowest level would rest on the loft insulation. Apparently open cell foam is more breathable but doesn't transfer moisture. Does this sound a good idea to you? 😉
Another option is blowing in EPS beads behind them, using my leaf blower 😀there are some alcoves hidden behind plasterboard either end that might be letting a draft in. This could be a good option behind fitted wardrobes on cold walls - provided the beads can't escape. I'm hoping it will allow some airflow but also keep the walls warm.
Great video mate and thank you for the mention.
But for anyone else reading this I would strongly suggest heading over to the buy me a coffee section and discord as it really is a fantastic group of people constantly helping each other out and the advice that some of the guys give is worth it's weight in gold!
Cheers Paul 👊
Hi Charlie - another great video thanks for posting. I missed the earlier one but have a patch of mold to treat at my house and my daughters so will be copying your approach. I think you should give Toolstation a heads-up before you post similar videos in future though as they appear to have sold out of Perma White! I got the last one in Ormskirk and nationally they have sold 18 in 24 hours - no coincedence I think !
Thanks Julian. Yes, and it would make what I'm doing so much more sustainable if I could occasionally benefit more from sales generated from my vids but there's very little inclination from the retailers on this. Particularly the larger ones at any rate. Another great product is the Zinsser Ceiling 5 in 1. Primes, seals and has the biocide - all in 1. From memory though I don't think it can be tinted, which the Perma White can. 👍
Great video as usual
Good video with great result. Personally I'd vent the wall as its an outside wall. However each to there own. If something else works then brilliant 👍👍.
That's a very good idea. The long term plan is to do something different with this room otherwise I'd almost certainly do that 👍
for me Charlie you cannot argue with the zinsser bin and the result speak them self happy days.
I agree. My go to primer! Good to hear from you 👊
I used BIN and Permawhite Satin on my bathroom ceiling, great job! No more mould patches!
Glad to hear it Andrew. Good work 👍
Great video Charlie
I remember your first video removing the mould.if treated right mate it shouldn’t come back Just as long as you’ve got good ventilation simples 👍👍👍👍
Agreed Carl. Thanks for the comment and for watching my vids. 👊
Charlie, have you tried Kontrol crystals & trap. I was sceptical but bought 3 bags and a trap for under my stairs. No smell and mold has appeared since. I was really impressed and the 3 bags have lasted about 2 years.
Hi. That's interesting. No I haven't tried those. I'll check them out - thanks. The reviews seem pretty good?
thanks for this update video,
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
thank you this was very helpful!
You're welcome Jackie. Thanks for the comment.
Hi, Great video! Please can you post the link of your backdraft shutter?
It's this one buddy amzn.to/30L0JOs (affiliate link) I just had to pull out the grill because it'll get quickly clogged up with fluff. I'm going to prime and paint the exterior of it the same colour as the wall.
I’ve treated dry rot in my career and have always got to the source of the problem. Having seen terrible damage caused by water, dampness lack of air and indeed light has made me quite cautions of how to treat any signs of dampness anywhere. My tuppence worth would be to treat for the potential of a given situation. Yes, it may mean more work and expense but peace of mind having done the work to eliminate nasty surprises later sometimes years later.
I would ensure the substrate: the plaster and possibly the brick/ stone behind is sprayed with a fungicide and allowed to dry. Irrigation by injection of some fungicide into to the wall. (ensure the outside soil is at least 150 mm below the DPC if on the ground floor, that assumes there is a DPC!). Then I’d apply your recommended paints. The possibility of damp contributing by ingress through the wall from outside must be checked out and dealt with. As this appears to be simply condensation from warmer air meeting a cold wall and unventilated sufficiently on this wall is good to go.
Thanks this helped the house has it everywhere we stripped concrete wall downstairs and repainted it looks good been about a year now but I see what ya mean it needs another coat and I'm going to put heat lamp and ultraviolet bulb to see what happens they say ultraviolet will do something . Zinseer paint is good product I had to save my money but it's worth it
If mould formed once, it will want to form again, either left over spores or new ones. With regular maintenance though it's easy to keep on top of. I think a problem is a lot of people seem to expect an area to require no cleaning or anything for years at a time which is rather silly. Regular light maintenance will keep areas clean and mould free. Get back into the old fashioned spring clean routine (though spring is bad time as the weather is still damp, I do it in the summer when things dry better).
Or sort the damp problem 1st
@@leeholke9851 That's fine if it's a damp problem and you can fix it. We don't have any damp problems at all, but we do have condensation issues.
@@caskwith condensation is still damp. It was a wide range of answers .
@@leeholke9851 Ok, well if you can stop the condensation great, but that isn't always possible/practicable.
97⁷
AWESOME! Thanks!
Hi Charlie great video where did you get the colour match from, and could you over paint with a preferred paint, if that getting a could match is not feasible? kind regards
Started following your channel recently as they are very informative thank you for that. I have a question as many homes suffer with damp on the ceiling in our bathroom through the winter. I’m thinking about getting the B.I.N mould killer proof primer but do I have to also get the perma white paint as well or can I use ordinary deluxe white emulsion over the top of it instead. We have a similar issue in the bedroom next to the bathroom but the mould only ever forms along the ceiling above the window.
Same problem Charlie. Used 70% vinegar to kill the mould. Sprayed it, let it dry. Repeated it a few times. Then used Zinnzar paint. Let it dry. Left it dry. & few months later painted the wall with emulsion paint. Looks great after 7 months. No mould issues
Great work 👍
Great video, totally agree with PIV units, I've had mine for 1 year and has made massive difference on condensation forming and subsequent mould growth ( I don't have any regrowth)
Fitted a PIVin our 40 year old bungalow , absolutely transformed our house. Had mould/condensation forming on walls and windows. Virtually eliminated now. Absolutely brilliant system.
I've invested in a piv as I have bad condensation also... just can't find anyone to fit the thing lol
@@Willyfarns It’s pretty easy tbh. Just cut a hole in the ceiling and get a 5amp electricity supply put in the loft space.
@@cerec69 does it make the vent area cold?
@@fanfeck2844 Not at all. I opted for the Nuaire system with the heater option. It just hums a bit like air conditioning. It’s just a revelation in our house.
Enjoyed this video :)
Charlie - Many thanks for this update. I have just ordered Zinsser gear as per your affiliate link...
Please can you remind me of the paint/painting sundries online supplier you referred to in your "Fitted Wardrobe" epic....
Many thanks - Rupert.
Thanks Rupert. Was that the ebay one you were after? bit.ly/3cbv1Mq
@@CharlieDIYte Perfect - Many thanks. I am hoping to attend the P and D show at Coventry over the next couple of days and was wondering if they were exhibiting.......
Why not do the same treaent behind that access panel?
Great video in this world of sponsors, I love how you remain unbaised and even if u do get paid your open and honest. I have a question. I have a tiny amount of( 5cm ) on my ceiling. If u were to use zinser, would I have to paid the whole ceiling with the zinser white once the area is spot treated to ensure for a uniform colour wheel th the old ceiling white colour?
Thanks, I appreciate that. The problem with spot priming with the Zinsser BIN is you can get a bit of a raised area. However a bit of very gentle sanding of the edge to feather it in with day 240 grit sand paper, and I reckon it would hardly be noticeable. Zinsser do another great product Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 which removes the need to prime. In answer to your question, you would want to paint the whole ceiling as the sheen of the Perma White will be very different to your existing emulsion. Do consider why you've got the mould though, and where there's anything you can do to stop it returning, and check out my video on this if you haven't already czcams.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/video.html 👍
Great Im moving into my fixer upper soon and this will help with the damp, do you have any recommendation for a house that has been heavily smoked in obviously sugar soap and a wipe down but zinza bin on all walls and ceilings will bankrupt me, does anyone have some advice???
Drill some ventilation holes in the back wall of the bench. Same with the appliance cabinet on the lower bottom.
In my experience dehumidifier is go to option. It was a dear one, couple of hundred but never thought of mould again. I live in a flat, though. So not many external walls and one is enough just have to wheel it around from room to room.
Yes, in that video I mentioned, the main thrust of the video was about dehumidifiers. Great to vastly reduce relative humidity around the home but they won't stop condensation forming on windows and the like. Crucial though, particularly in an apartment like yours when perhaps you're producing a lot of moisture from hanging up washing, cooking and bathing, without there being anywhere for it to escape.
A good idea to have a review of something like this as it is useful to see if something worked. A long term review of some of the other projects like the recent gutter and downpipe paint, built-in wardrobes would be good to see too.
Though the Zinsser BIN seems expensive it does seem to cover well and the tin last for a long time. The mould on that wall would appear to be on the surface rather than a wall that had a damp issue. We had a similar issue with our ceiling in one room, thoroughly cleaned it and checked it wasn't caused by anything else apart from condensation at a cold spot. Used the BIN and then just used a normal ceiling emulsion over that. It has not returned so was effective. That one tin of BIN has been used on loads of projects on MDF and some other problem areas so doesn't seem as expensive as I initially thought.
Our house is 30+ years old and the original wooden framed windows were great for ventilation as the quality of them was awful. Replacing them meant the ventilation got worse and mould was more apparent. Apart from ourselves, main source of moisture is the kettle and cooking which is hard to avoid. At this time of year also washing drying indoors. Improving the ventilation would help but the dehumidifier has been a significant factor in fighting moisture. It is a case of spotting problem areas, treating them and then monitoring the area.
Hi Glen, thanks for this. Yes you getting a dehumidifier was a great investment. Having a few hygrometers around the house is also very useful. If the RH goes much advice 60% you know you need to seeing into action in the room in question. I try and leave a few windows on the half latch during the day but that's easy for me living in the countryside and working from home. I appreciate it's problematic for others to do this, although if you have trickle vents on the bare windows I'd say keep them all open 👍
I work for Nuaire, the Drimaster is good for damp.
Thanks for that 👍
Good to know, thanks
I find that TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a good treatment for removing surface mould, followed up with the paints you suggested. The real battle is fixing the root cause of the condensation though (as noted in the video).
Exactly. We have a far from ideal situation given the lack of ventilation but I used a dehumidifier to dry out the wall before I treated it, and at least this paint solution has comprehensively prevented any moisture getting back into the wall. I think the result is pretty satisfactory given the circumstances. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte What plaster does it have? How did you dry the wall? Have you not now trapped any moisture which is cold attracting high enviroment moisture levels creating condensation to find your cold non ventalated area?
As some of the others, if moisture is within your walls, sealing it with paint can cause long term problems. I had this is our property, paint worked but long term it came back. Solution was for our stone wall (no cavity) was to remove the plaster, tank it with a slurry then plater over - long term, its never returned. Its important to identify the exact source of the problem. Have you ever measured what's going on it your walls? I also have a PIV installed, made little difference, main solution as you was to run a dehumidifier.
The walls are fine in my case which is one of the reasons the mould didn't come back. Previously painted in a cheap contract matt with insufficient ventilation, a combination of slightly better air circulation and this Zinsser perma White paint has sorted the problem.
Charlie, have you considered installing a bar greenhouse heater on a thermostat? I'm considering this option in my coat cupboard to make sure wet coats and shoes are dried.
Re: PIV, I installed one in a client's house about 12 months ago, the only complaint they had was the constantly circulating fan which they said cooled the landing more than they expected. It does make a difference to condensation!!
Thanks again for the updated video.
i have had my PIV over a year now and yes it does make the landing cold but at the same time it stops the condensation
Not a bad idea Nathan. You just have to remember the moisture is still going into the air, so bare that in mind as part of an all round house strategy. It's so worth getting a hygrometer or 3 just to keep an eye on humidity around the house. Should have mentioned it in this vid although I went into a lot of detail on it in my main condensation video czcams.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/video.html 👍
Thanks Nick. Does yours have a heater on it? I know the heaters don't really do a great deal other than tempering the cold air coming in.
Have had a PIV for 3 years now, absolutely amazing. I've said goodbye to damp wallpaper, mouldy curtains and clothing and steamed up windows. No need to ever open windows. A bit colder on the landing but getting rid of damp makes it worthwhile. I bought the DriMaster-ECO PIV with a heater but only used the heater once as it's pretty useless and expensive to run, so would not recommend that, using it unheated costs the same as leaving a low watt bulb on 24/7 and I haven't noticed much difference on my electric bills.
@@mp3bbb Absolute ditto here as well 👍
Thank you.
Would replacing classic room vent with the new one to have heat retaining humidity removal with sensor functionality help with condensation/mould, thank you!
They're good but bottom line you need good ventilation and a house wide moisture management strategy as discussed here czcams.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/video.html
Charlie, what do you think about the mechanical heat recovery systems instead of PIV?
More expensive to buy and possibly to run, but perhaps more effective?
Yes, definitely the gold standard but not something you can retro fit, given all the ducting 🤔
Zinzer is brilliant paint, I put Silver Shield Antimicrobial Paint Additive in my paint, No recuring mould since over 2 years, not even on the surface. Silver Shield is made with Silver Ion which when in contact with bacteria or mould spores they just die out before they get the opportunity to keep doubling up.
Hi Charlie,
I'm just trying out your method today . I have a small box room and was planning it for my young 6 year old. Only to discover mould probably twice what you've had. Cleaned up and waiting for the last bit coat. Would you recommend a lower wall air vent installed for air circulation as a bed is pushed against the external wall?
Hi, yes I'd definitely recommend an air vent if you can put one in. Failing that, can you maybe not push the bed right up against the wall? Even leaving it a few inches off will help. If you use the same products I used you should be ok because the biocide in the paint should stop the mould reforming but the problem you have is moisture hitting a cold surface. Did you watch this video czcams.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/video.html ? Get some hygrometers to keep an eye on moisture levels. I suspect the bathroom is the main culprit and if you can keep humidity levels down by making a few lifestyle changes - better fan, window open more often, that will help.
Thanks for the video =)
You're welcome. 👊
Hi Charlie, I have a mould issue in our bathroom & I would like to repaint the walls and tiles. For the walls I plan to follow your previous advice and use a mould killer, Zinsser BIN & Perma white. The walls are half tiled and the grout is badly affected by mould. Do I need to purchase Zinsser Bullseye for the tiles or can I use the former treatment for the tiled areas?
I spoke to Zinsser previously about painting tiles and they don't recommend it in a splash zone. You could try some of this stuff czcams.com/users/shortsyMydK5oHSj4?feature=share
I use perma white satin on most of my interior woodwork. On flat doors and window boards it rolls out beautifully without the need for tipping off. Dries as flat as oil and a finish as good as spraying. The only negative is the brushes clog up fairly quickly and in temperatures above 20° it dries too fast, turning my brushes into a solid!
Good to hear it Andy, thanks for that. Yes I find that with Zinsser BIN too. It's my go to primer but you can't use it in the heat of the summer because it dries before you can get it off the brush.
@@CharlieDIYte BIN is fabulous stuff and is better rolled with a 4" emulsion roller X 2 coats. You don't get dragging by rolling. When I do have to brush it then I work it in small amounts quickly! Coverstain dries beautiful and flat with an enamel like finish.
Charlie please can you link to the attachment your tumble drier hose is attached to at the interior wall please 🙏
I think it was this one, bit.ly/3DG6R9k although if you're thinking of installing one, use a small length of soil pipe through the wall rather than that metal pipe as the fluff won't get caught on it nearly as much. 👍
I have one of these PIV in the loft my condensation is whose than ever we have even had the spray foam done are bathroom is the problem we didn’t have that much condensation but since we have had new bathroom fitted it is a lot worse.
Can I put one of these humidifier in my bathroom if so which one is the best thank you
I painted the wall where I had the mould with an oil-based paint and every spring I just wipe the wall.
I have no more problems with the mould.
Good work 👍
Hi I've just subscribed and watching damp proof paint clip when you removed access panel where you mentioned stale air. Could you make a hole dryer pipe push a pipe into hole say 50mm diameter down to outside wall but not through it so that when tumble dryer is exhausting around inner pipe it will siphon air from access area. A bit like a large spray gun. Regards Mick.
Thanks for the sub Michael, really appreciate it. Yes I like that idea. Will give it some thought. 👌👏
I used the Ronseal product three years ago in my mother's bathroom. The mould has returned in the worst areas and paint crazing is evident in other areas.
Sorry to hear that Martin. Ventilation is key. Can she open a window in there from time to time?
I had quite bad black mould in the disabled wet room. After a look through the internet I used a 3% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide in a spray bottle, left for 10 minutes, gave it a scrub wiped down,. when dry I painted it with the Powerfix anti mould and mildew paint from Lidl, it's latex based so water resistant too. The mould hasn't come back after 2 years. Why did I use that method? Because it's inexpensive compared to those specialist paints by big names and most important, it works.
Great work. Glad to hear it's sorted the problem. 👍
On the Zinsser product placement: a few carpenters and decorators I know recommend Zinsser products for pretty much every specialist situation every time. There are undoubtedly alternatives, but they're all going to be more expensive than regular paint anyway - so why bother potentially saving a few quid to gamble on whether they will work, when you know Zinsser will?
I'd add that my natural inclination is to aways go for a "good enough" cheaper option where possible.
Yes people occasionally say my videos are stuffed with product placement but they have to be as you need all the tools or paint to do the job. My responsibility is to only place stuff I believe passionately in as being one of the best options for the job. I too know a lot of decorators who swear by Zinsser so that's one of the reasons I recommend the stuff so much. Its performance speaks for itself though 👍
Are the shelving units and framing in your utility area raised off the ground, with ventilation passing underneath as well as behind? That should help reduce mould.
They're not but I agree that would be a good idea - or perhaps an air brick in the cupboard. All demolished now as part of the kitchen refurb..
Fantastic video, in a bathroom would you install piv or fan extractor?
Thanks. You don't install PIVs in bathrooms as you don't want that moisture funneling around the house.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks it maybe sufficient to have a dehumidifier that I can rotate around the house and install a st100pir extractor in kitchen and bathroom. Will that one be ideal for a small kitchen due to the cooker being on a internal wall, this is the only thing I can place on a external wall
Could you not install a couple of vents in the bench at the back to allow better air circulation?
Yes that's a decent suggestion. Problem is, the buckets below the bench are always full so the vents wouldn't have much effect. If I was worried, an air vent in the wall would probably be the best bet.
Hi Charlie,
I have a question, you have probably been asked this.
How do you solve this problem with mould. The colour of my room where I am getting mould has been painted a grey and I am getting it within a corner of a room. So there’s a bit on the ceiling and 2 corners of the wall. So if I paint it with mould paints and what I have seen so far are all White so would that mean I would have to change the colour of the whole room or can you apply the 2 applications and paint over it in the Grey colour that is on the wall.
You can get the Perma White I used on the original video tinted to the colour you require. That would be my suggestion.
Good video does that paint smell bad when you're using it?
Not really. Worth using in a well ventilated room though as with all solvent based products.
Would it be best to PVA the wall to seal it first before stain block then mould residents paint on
It's not a requirement of the manufacturer. I probably wouldn't because if the paint contains a biocide or other additives to neutralise the mould the PVA will prevent it getting to the mould.
Hi Charley, right at the beginning of this video you say as long as the damp is not coming through the wall. I have a mould problem that I would like to treat but how do you know if it is coming from the outside or not? I had a window taken out and replaced with a French window (doors) to the outside of the back garden, there is plenty of air circulation but I had wallpaper on the wall but that had been hung with bacterial prevented wall paste, but the mould came through the paper.
I was just answering a comment from someone who used to do this for a living and he says you know it's coming through the wall because the plaster blows/ is failing and the skirting rots. You'll only really know by stripping the wall paper and seeing if you can dry the wall out thoroughly. Is the room well heated? If not this could be an issue. Also as per my condensation video you should get a hygrometer to monitor humidity in the room. Below 60% you shouldn't have a problem with mould.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for anwsering and clearing this question up
I moved in to our house in 2013. When remodelling the upstairs we removed two built in cupboards and found tons of mould behind them (on walls and ceiling). My mate recommended Zinsser products (B-I-N) and something else from their brand. 9 years on there is no mould to speak of in those areas.
Really glad to hear that. I suspect you're managing moisture better than the previous owners too as discussed here czcams.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/video.html
@@CharlieDIYte Just watched that video, really informative. We do have old windows and they get really wet overnight (but only in the bedrooms). They are also not installed very well so mould does creep up around the windows (need to wipe it every 4-6 weeks and usually treat with bleach once a year). We are replacing all windows and front door in January so I wonder how those will fare against condensation. Personally I'm against trickle vents because they ruin the window frame, happy to just leave them slightly open if I need to. I also want to insulate the suspended floor - all of which will add to air tightness and probably more moisture in the air so I'll probably use some of your hints 😉
Hello, is the Satin harder wearing than the Matt? Thank you
I don't think there will be much in it to be honest. Best to ask Zinsser
we have an heat pump dryer when mould started to appear we had to buy 2 dehumidifiers to get rid of it sort of eliminates any energy saving claims that are made regarding heat pump dryers ? we are going to get rid of the heat pump dryer never been happy with it since we put it in.
That's interesting, I've often thought of buying one but I prefer to expel all the moisture straight outside.
Hi Charlie, my husband used HG Mould Remover and Dulux damp seal in august and the mould is back! We live in a 1930’s bungalow and along every outside wall there’s mould growing mainly in the corners and majority above the skirting boards. The bungalow has cavity walls with no insulation and they are icy cold! Any advice what we can do would be greatly appreciated. Thank you 😊
Get a dehumidifier, i recommend Probreeze 20 or 30L/day.
Sorry to hear that Tracey. Check out this video and let me know if you've got any questions. czcams.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/video.html The key is you must get some ventilation into that bungalow so the moisture you're generating can escape. Installing a PIV or just buying a dehumidifier will help enormously.
Hi Charlie just an update. I bought 4 of the Thermpro TP-55 I put one in each bedroom and 1 in each of the kitchen and lounge. 3 rooms were ok but our bedroom was at 58% during the afternoon and evening but during the night it went up to 76% 😳 this room has an open brick vent outside which has a plastic vent over it in the bedroom which can’t close. Do you think this could this be causing the damp issues? Thank you.
can you tell me where you got the steel back draught shutter please?
amzn.to/3p1XQkU and I took the grill out as this will get clogged with fluff.
What is best for bathroom ceiling mold, painted?
I would probably use Zinsser Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 as it primes, covers cracks and strains and seals and also contains a biocide. It's only available in white though I think so if you want it tinted then Perma White is good although if there are stains you'll need to prime that with Zinsser BIN first. www.zinsseruk.com/product/ceiling-pro-5-in-1/
all our married life we moved into new build, so (luckily) we had no such probs. In our retirement we moved into a 1950's well built house but immediately noticed some odd minor damp/condensation problems, nothing too bad just odd little corner patches here and there. Tried various remedies but the Ronseal and Zinnser products seem to work ok but not totally successful. A top end de-humidifier improved things big time but your advice about looking at the PIV systems seems to be a real answer. How much does an average install cost for a 3 bed house?
I cannot comment on cost of PIV's, but I will say that dry air is cheaper to heat than humid air.
I honestly couldn't say, David. You could contact Nuaire and ask if they have any approved installers. Also, if you Google "PIV installers UK" a lot of companies come up, with the ability to get an online quote.
I try to cure the cause, rather than the symptoms, how about humidistat extractor fan, or a dehumidifier, or insulate the external walls, or what ever works., have you got trickle vents on your windows.
good info on the video, thanks.
I do a lot in this house to tackle the cause as discussed here czcams.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/video.html The problem here is that the bench prevents air flow in a very small room, so short of insulating the wall - as I'm gradually doing elsewhere but not practical here, it installing a vent in the wall, this is the most pragmatic option.
Can I wallpaper over a wall which has been treated with Zinseer products as shown in your video?
Yes, I don't see why not. You're always meant to prime a wall before papering anyway.