Dealing With Damp and Condensation
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- čas přidán 9. 02. 2021
- Roger is joined by damp cure expert Mostyn Neylon-Witham.
LINKS
◾ www.dovedaledampcure.co.uk
◾ / dovedaledamp
Nuaire design and manufacture ventilation products for the domestic, commercial and industrial construction sectors.
◾ www.nuaire.co.uk
◾ / nuairegroup
Special thanks to Dovedale Dampcure Services Ltd.
◾ Condensation Control (PIV system installer)
◾ Damp Treatment
◾ Dry Rot Treatment Products
◾ Wet Rot Treatment
◾ Woodworm Treatment
◾ Chemical Injection Systems & Electro-Osmotic Installations Carried Out
◾ Home Buyers Damp & Timber Report
Dovedale Dampcure Services Ltd are damp specialists in the treatment of condensative dampness, damp walls, penetrating damp, woodworm, wet rot, dry rot and rising damp problems within properties.
They have four decades of experience in the field and offer cost-effective solutions for treatment and eradication of your problem.
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#DampCure #RisingDamp #PenetratingDamp
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I like the fact that Mostyn doesn’t know the cure until he has looked at the problem, unlike some. It’s also important to say “you don’t know” every now and again. That’s the sign of someone who knows what they are talking about.
Absolutely. I spent hours/days finding the damp problems in our house. Three surveyors gave their opinions without any invasive tests - could have lead to costly work . Basic things like rubble in the cavity, underpowered extraction fan. Blocked drain s, high ground levels, defective flashing , you need to 'get under the skin of ahouse' before giving the diagnosis
@@twmd don't forget blocked gutters and downpipes are often over looked
These videos make you feel that you are in the same room as the guys discussing your building projects. Thanks for all the practical advice
At last someone who understands hygroscopic salts on you tube! I once went to a chimney leak, all flashings slates etc no problems, mushrooms on the pots & vents in the blanked off fireplaces. we eventually pulled out 10 rubbish bags of old jackdaw nests out of the chimney! the sweating brought the salts through. sorted with K11, never a bother again, the customer admitted that we were the 7th firm who had had a go at fixing the damp problem! builders need to be more aware of salts as they will send a damp meter off the scale & its only in the top 3mm.
I installed a Nuair unit in a rental property a few years ago. It is no exaggeration to say that the condensation problem was cured overnight permanently.
Was it an expensive solution?
@@klaeLIFEI can't remember how much, I fitted it myself. Tenant was delighted. you can see how much they cost on line.
Whatever it was I felt it was worth every penny! Going to fit one for my daughter in law once we are allowed to travel.
@@simonclarke6970 hi maybe you could provide the link for the one that you fitted please
@@simonclarke6970 was it the flatmaster or did you put it in a loft?
pivs are awesome
Thanks to the both of you for taking the time to video this..really informative..
One of your best videos yet Roger, thank you. Mostyn is clearly an expert. I've fitted Drimasters and they certainly work.
Great Episode. Clear discussion on one of the most moss understood areas of how home ownership and renovation. Well done
Excellent interview great to listen to people who understand the systems and problems they are dealing with
Open up your fireplaces, fit in-line fans in bathrooms, open your windows and trickle vents, use your extractor fan when cooking, don't dry clothes on a radiator - there's many simple things you can do to air your house and prevent damp and mould. We swapped out a tiny ceiling extractor fan in a bathroom with big in-line fan that extracts 3x the cubic volume, it's so good the mirror doesn't mist up when showering.
Just had Mostyn visit our cellar at our high street shop in South Cave. Great guy, spent time inspecting the area properly and we look forward to having him undertake work to alleviate condensation we have in the cellar. Another great video Roger. Mostyn gave this a share to me 👍
How can we contact Mostyn? He is excellent. My son just bought a place and has damp in his bedroom, we don't know if it's condensation or something else. We are desperate to have someone who can identify the real problem. I really appreciate it.
I love Your curiosity and persistence in research ! It is inspiring.
Excellent video Roger and what a nice knowledgeable guest.
Really insightful conversation from both so thanks for sharing on the topic.
I T is a truly joy to hear this person-guest you interviewed-spoke with....he is personable, open to hand information out, full of effective ideas on how to solve these issues. Thank you for informing us-me and educating us-me.....What is the name of this wonderful Contractor?
Exceptionally informative.
Thank you.
Excellent discussion. Thank you!
Bless you Roger .. you’re a star ⭐️ ..
This was brilliant so much knowledge and expertise between you , absolutely loved it
Good interview Roger. It amazes me how little we really know about resolving rising damp and condensation issues. The money that goes into quick fix remedies is preposterous. We have the same problems here in Italy, especially with rising damp. Millions are made with quick fix solutions, you'll find the problem returning a couple of years later. I've resolved condensation problems in my house by adding false ceilings and installing insulation in the voids. It's a simple process with good results. The rooms are much warmer and the ceilings aren't cold to the touch. Basically i'm trying to control the dew point as much as possible. This has made a big difference, especially in the bathrooms. Adding extractor fans in the bathrooms with humidistats are also a must. If And of course taking the necessary steps like not drying clothes in the house. Steaming kettles and cooking pans with hot water can be resolved by an extract fan over the cooker that expels steam directly outside instead of relying on the usual filter.
The big problem here in Italy is rising damp. Most older houses, which there are a lot, have this problem. Our house has it on all the ground floor walls. A couple of years back i removed the plaster on one of the walls in the entrance to our house, it was bad and very unsightly. I removed the plaster 1100mm from the floor. Most of the bricks were damp. I let it dry out intending to plaster over it but it actually made a nice feature so i left it as it was. To this day the dampness has gone, or evaporated. There's a big deal over here with using breathable plaster and paint. That's the direction i'll be heading when i start renovating the ground floor. That and the Dryrod system that i saw on one of your videos. Keep up the great work
Great discussion ive got 3 bed house with 2ft wide walls.
wet walls put ebac dehumidifier top off stairs was pulling 2.5 litres a day now full every few days, house is alot warmer .
Thank you for this video. I've learnt so much here and have booked an appointment with Mostyn. We have a grade 2 listed Cornish house and this information is vital!
What a brilliant video, great watch
Great information gathered there Rodger. Keep up the great work.
Great advice as usual. Thanks Roger.
Thanks!
There are too many “damp proofing companies” that come to the house, take a look and say that’s rising damp, it needs hacking off to 1.2m tanking, injecting and re plastering. There are too many courses like that, they don’t teach you about how damp works. I have condensation and I had a guy try and tell me I need to have all of the above done when in fact, I don’t. Great tips, I am definitely looking into the Drimaster.
Thank you very much
One subject that has plenty of room for more comment. PIV is the simple answer in so many cases.
ROGER, what a fine interview.
I'm offering you a sincere "Greetings" to you, from the colony; Canada.
Thanks John We hope to do more
Roger what a brilliant informative video, it explains a lot of the issues I have.
Excellent video!! Well done guys. 👍👏🏻
"Salt retardant treatment"!
Salt coming out of the walls!
This man is a star!
Huge thanks Mostyn!
Mine's got no damp course, built around 1860, on a salt marsh.
Badly refurbed by a Housing Association over 20 years ago.
With busses jumping over the road humps outside.
It's a really good tiny house, it's just been badly treated.
It's been a journey.
Thank you for all of your wonderful videos!
Borax by the way for black mould. Not bleach.
And ventilation.
Great vid.
Great to hear Mostyn talking the holistic approach to dealing the damp/humidity and condensation problems.
Hey, Thanks!!
Fantastic video, very informative. Just in the process of buying an old 1920's property. The home buyer report referred me to get a damp and timber survey whose representatives came round and quoted £7k for a damp proof course. Never one who wishes to pay for my ignorance I have been doing my own research and came upon your video which makes so much sense particularly around lifestyle in relation to condensation being a key problem nowadays. Hope I can find some decent tradesman ;like you guys as things progress
Love the great explanations.
I had lots of condensation in my new 1910 house. So bad the paint on some walls was lifting and mould growing. I fitted a PIV this last weekend and within a day the windows are almost condensation free. I can’t believe how quick and effective this solution is. It’s probably reduced the problem by 80% in two days.
How is the temperature in the house?
Is it still effective a year on?
I solved a very similar issue in my house by cracking 3 windows open in night latch and keeping bathroom door closed. Humidity dropped from over 65% to below 40% in 3 weeks and problem solved for free.
@@steveman7251 in your own house yes but when you have thick as two planks disgusting tenants, well…🤨
Excellent video, well presented by two Master tradesman technicians....Well done
A great posting and an interesting guy, specialists in their field are always handy.
Since you insulated my house the upstairs bedroom window reveal has gone black. Wow I'd best have a look at that. It was easy to see the ill fitting window at the bottom of the hinge side. Most of the Blackness was Traffic dust not mold, but mold was present up the reveal as this was also creating a cold spot. A glass lifter and some WD40 might save the day as you can lubricate the hinge and use the glass lifter to pull the hinge end into place and stop the draught. Generally if they have been stuck ajar in the bottom corner dust build up on the hinge can be huge, so watch out for it blowing back at ya.
Excellent video Roger. I wonder how much condensation dampness (possibly to residents below) is caused by old weeping plastic waste or galvanised steel water pipes (poorly) imbedded in a concrete floor e.g. pipes placed on a concrete purlin floor, with a thin concrete screed on top?
Class video Rodger. Educational. 👍
Interesting video, well done.
I like this style of longer format videos
Super informative! thanks for this
Very valid points lots i see is actually condensation with no air circulation so.👍
Thanks for the brill discussion. I don't have damp but still considering a piv
I fitted one of those units not long ago for a couple and they said it helped no end with the damp.
I had same problem, my tenants had an electric heater in the bathroom, and an airer dull of washing. The ceiling went black with mould, they reported me to the council and they explained to them what they were doing wrong. People don’t understand the consequence of their actions
Totally agree Roger,people don't put their spending priorities in the right order, nothing worse than damp and mould!Government incentives waste of time in my opinion.Great video!👍
Excellent video👍
We had that issue in our house - mould growing around the windows, patches on the ceiling etc ...being amateurs we jacked up the heating, replaced the double glazing and doors, shoved a flock of sheep in the loft...and made it worse. Then we looked at it from a different angle and started to reduce the moisture in the house by any means we could (including opening the windows for 15mins a day in the winter). It's pretty much eradicated it apart from an ongoing issue in the kitchen but that's to do with shoddy fitting of the extractor and is a whole novel in itself. Love the channel - by the time I've watched all the videos I might actually have a handle on how to fix the 'Money Trap' :)
Mostyn Neylon-Witham knows exactly what he is talking about totally agree with him
Very interesting chaps thanks very much 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Thank god for this video. Checked comments, got myself a nuaire drimaster. Perfect. Windows have minimal condensation on now in the mornings compared to the full window dripping. No wet walls and ceiling on the bay window anymore. I'm guessing no more mould
Love watching Rodger! I have a bit of rising damp or a rain leak downstairs. I also have one bedroom corner that gets super mouldy after raining and gets mould very quick so I must have a rain leak there! Im getting a buildings and damp survey in 2 weeks.
Turns out after a survey it was pretty much all condensation so you never know until you get a professional!
This guy is clearly very good.
The dri-master is possibly the best purchase I’ve ever made! Good to see they are still well regarded
Do you know how much it is costing to run in reality? With so many appliances the power rating isn’t much of a guide and a 400w heater makes it sound reasonably expensive
@@sparks1372 not expensive at all. Mine is linked to a humidity sensor and took around 3 weeks to lower it’s from 80% to 50% now just runs on low setting and kicks in as required so never at max output or in speed 6
@@RAM-yn1nn we just had our Nuaire Drimaster Heat fitted. After just 2 days I'm seeing humidity levels down to mid 60s - low 70s. Prior to that it was always around 80-90 especially in bedroom. We have ours on constantly (no heat) and it seems to slowly be working. I do see levels creep up to 71ish in the day time, but at night it seems to lower it much more easily. I'm praying that it lowers it to low 50s in few weeks!
Brilliant thanks 😁👍👏👏👏
Great to see you changing your damp attack tack! It’s a learning curve my man and each job teaches you more. A lot of good stuff here 👍🏻
We aren't changing anything we have always been truth seekers. To say there is no such thing as rising damp is a lie. To say that all damp is rising damp is also a lie. We welcome comment from all camps but the above has to be the starting point for a proper debate. Adults in the room and all that.
@@SkillBuilder Good man. I’m still yet to see rising damp after 20 years of doing this though 😉
@@SkillBuilder Please have a view of Robyn's video. It should't be down to debate. I should be about science and building knowledge and dismissing things that may seem intuitive but turn out to be wrong czcams.com/video/Jo8oF9ubvtI/video.html
One of the most important things to get down humidity/Condensation is to remove it quickly from the source area ie Bathroom Kitchen, put lids on pans try and get humidity sensing extraction fans in those areas and it will cut down the humidity also shut doors in those areas when in use to stop the humidity going in the rest of the house, open back up when the humidity sensing fan has stopped.
That is a good tip. The more you can stop if drifting through the house the better.
Hi Roger, that was a great interview, really enjoyed it. The eternal battle of insulation versus ventilation is a really interesting one. if you want to see the extent to which salt attracts mositure, go outside on a cold day like today and have a look at a road that has been gritted by the council. Even if there has been no rain, snow or whatever, the road will likely be damp: it's the salt in the grit drawing mositure out of the air. On very cold days with very low humidity and very dry air, the road salt will be dry and you'll see a white powdery coating on the road,. But for the most part in the UK we have pretty humid air so gritted roads look damp. You can often see it on pavements alongside gritted roads, too. You'll see lots of small damp spots on an otherwise dry pavement. If you look closely at the centre of each damp patch, there'll be a grain of road salt, which is sucking moisture out of the air and making a damp patch around it. I was showing my daughter only a couple of days ago as we walked to school, but she wasn't in the least bit interested because she's only eight.
Thanks very much for all the great content, keep it up.
roger love your channel please keep it up and can you always ask Mostyn to join you with a problem he knows what he is doing he is one of the good guys 9n this damp industry
Thanks for that!
I get a lot of water on windows in the morning what can I do to get rid of it thanks your doing a great job and your very informative
Great video guys! Really like these! Will research these PIV units. They sound excellent.
I installed the nuaire drimaster eco heat 3 weeks ago to my 2000sq ft two storey house. It has changed our lives and worked within 24 hrs.
@@dj4play1980 Interesting. Thanks for this!
@@dj4play1980 do you know how much (roughly) it is costing to run? And did you install a heater version?
@@sparks1372 you don't have to have the heater on at all. You can have it off. There is a remote button you can get that can turn it on/off. It.doesn't heat the house, it simply takes the nip out of the air.
In my old house we chased damp and every firm (free surveys) we had said we needed injections, we had it done and it made no difference. We found a company that charged for the damp survery and they said the problem was a badly laid concrete floor which had replaced the original suspended wooden floor.
When we dug it up we found only about an inch of concrete with just rubbish infill underneath and a bit of roofing felt round the edge as the damp proofing. In addition we found open air bricks below ground level.
New concrete floor, blocked up air bricks and it was cured.
My lesson is you get what you pay for, and a free survey is just a sales pitch.
So in other words there was no inherent rising damp - it was all caused by by bad building care.
Thanks guys, wonderful interesting video. Humidity is almost always very confusing.
We live at the coast and always wind from the South-West. Guess witch wall / woodwork gets the most damage from water.
I will look at this storm-dry thing.
Measurement is gold. Installing wireless sensors for temp en humidity and recording this for longer time, would help to proove.
Solution can be difficult. Floor / walls / windows / ventilation have to be looked at.
Nice chat, a bit long for my liking but I couldn't stop till the end. Damp doesn't concern me, I have a MVHR, but I really liked the chat. Keep em coming. Good luck!
Another great vid packed with useful information and food for thought. thank you.
I'm not convinced by the Drimaster - 400 W running maybe 24/7 adds up to a potentially high electricity bill.
I had the same 'wince' moment. I looked up the Drimaster spec and they quote running cost of 5-10p a day so clearly the heater isn't on very much. Some people saying the unheated version is fine but then I guess it depends on how well insulated the ceiling onto your loft is : if the loft is almost at the outside temperature then that's got to make the landing a bit nippy at times. Will
Top guys!
Very informative video, currently looking to install a PIV unit in my 1920s end terrace. Had issues with rising damp downstairs which is now resolved but have really bad black mould upstairs. I suppose the question is Nuaire or vent axia? Currently have a VA extract fan in the bathroom
Fitted a PIV in a single block house that the walls and windows streamed with water. Within a week it was all gone. I was genuinely surprised and a fantastic purchase I made
My bungalow was so bad humidity so high tha nails on the skirting would show through with rust the windows would run with water so bad that we bought a window vac for the windows in the mornings, the double glazed window all had trickle vents nothing helped, towels on the sills to save the floors I FITTED A P.A.V. NUAIR ITS THE BEST MONEY I HAVE EVER SPENT AN HOUR TO FIT AND THE FOLOWING MORNING AFTER A FROSTY MORNING, NOTHING ON THE WINDOWS, NO MORE MOULD IN THE BATHROOM, BETTER NIGHTS SLEEP. 75% - 48% HUMIDITY 👍MANY MANY THANKS 👍
Over the past 10 years I have renovated over 50 victorian property's in Liverpool, there hit and miss with condensation problems, these houses where not designed for modern living, sash windows where dehumidifiers in themselves and when double glazing was introduced the condensation in these properties just go to the external walls and cold spots, especially if there solid render and plaster finish, I knock all external walls off and replace with therma plaster boards with secondary fixings, I also put trickle vents in the sashes on the pvc windows, now I do install the heated piv system in the loft as standard, I do all dpc as standard with dryzone, great product. Drying cloths on radiators, madens, is one of the main problems. Also if anyone has condensation issues try not to use matt emulsion as this just holds moisture in the chalky paint a vinyl matt is much better.
Great video cheers, I’ve got damp at the bottom of my walls, it’s an old council house built with lime mortar, the amount of lime that falls off I suspect the cavity is bridged with it, I think it’s got slate damp course, what can you do with that, I don’t worry about it just a thought that’s all. Love all your vids.
seems to me the sooner we build houses using straw bales and lime plaster the better. Your right about peoples priorities, eg, our choir would put on a concert and say charge about £5.00, people would moan about the price and yet during the after glow in a local pub the same people would be quaffing double whiskies like they were going out of fashion.
Come again pal!
if you build a house using straw bales and render outside with lime mortar and plaster inside with lime plaster the whole house naturally breathes allowing moisture in and out
Pretty much. A similar thing that comes to mind is how people can’t afford talk therapy.
Most people could use it. But they can’t afford it. They’ll run around feeding all their addictions that they use to cover up pain. Bottle of wine a night. Few beers down the pub. Gambling, smoking, luxury food, fancy cars, shopping addictions, expensive holidays, anything to keep themselves happy.
Yet they won’t invest £40 once every two weeks in themselves. Sheer madness if you ask me. The way it affects your productivity is off the scale. It’s the kind of thing that allows you to start a business, put energy into your passions rather than dragging round your anchors.
Not doing it, which I think most do, It’s like trying to drive around with flat tyres. Why would you do that?!
We've had damp in one area and it became apparent it was a blocked down pipe from the gutter. The survey didn't pick it up. We noticed it after a downpore, luckily before before the damproofing was due to take place. A new soak away saved use a lot of money. Well not that much but the appropriate action was taken.
You can also get heat exchange PIV units which pass warm air from the house across a heat exchanger to warm the fresh incoming air before it is expelled.
We had salts/damp in the chimney, we lifted the tile base and discovered a hole in the base of the chimney floor, it was literally a puddle of water. We’d had the roof done already,and made sure there were no flower beds against it. We fixed the broken floor, relaid the tile, and over time the chimney dried out. Another problem in our kitchen was the neighbours bathroom upstairs, small gap in grout was letting water through. Neighbours eh? 😂
I've found a lot of issues have occurred in the last 18 to 24 months - i've related this to the pandemic and working from home. Suddenly these properties which could equalise but not being occupied 24/7 are now being occupied 24/7! so people breathing, making coffees all day etc and problems arise.
I always use the rice in salt example myself - it's a good one for people to relate to.
Noticed staining and black mould on an internal painted wallpapered chimney breast in an unused upstairs bedroom and on the ceiling area adjacent to it. Fire place in the bedroom long since bricked off. Roofer 1 suggested fitting new cowls and he checked the chimney's external flashing. Roofer 1 retired. Staining continued to expand. Roofer 2 thought that blown harling on the external chimney might the problem and replaced this. Staining continued to expand. I decided to strip the wall paper off the internal chimney breast to see if that might help inform source of the damp. Was shocked and appalled at the extent of black mould under the wallpaper and how damp the plaster was. Roofer 2 now suggesting condensation. Bought a dehumidifier and left it to run in dry mode continuously. I'm gobsmacked at how much water this collects - average 4 litres a day! Also blowing a warm air fan onto the chimney breast. 3 weeks of this and still a couple of damp patches on the chimney breast (some of which expand if I turn the fan heater off). Still not 100% convinced it's condensation and not a leak from outside. Is there a sure fire way to test for this?
We have exactly same problem with our bedroom chimney breast, had builders and roofers look at it with no solution as yet
Just open your windows as a daily routine- especially when cooking and during shower. And dont dry clothes inside the house. Job done!!!!
Would be nice if you could show some examples (pictures) to highlight the different scenarios you are talking about.
storm dry is the only product in is own class as it also gives a thermal value to the wall as it carries on absorbing ,awesome product money well spent
brilliant video, I had big condensation issues and this interview is GOLD ! I did a lot of research over a year ago and bit the bullet and ordered a nuaire drimaster and fitted it myself which isn't that difficult, results are fantastic in controlling condensation. only slight negative of them is that it 'slightly' lowers temperature on landing but that is a small price to pay for reduced condensation.. keep up great work Roger
Just out of curiosity,which unit from Nuaire did you fit, was it one with or without the heater?
Dehumidifiers PULL moisture through and can make a situation worse. Beware…
Mine is freezing! My landing is 13c right now whilst my rooms are 19-20c. I My attic is around 5c with outside temp 0c. The heater takes the edge off but it's still cold and expensive. Around 35p per hrs based on Oct energy price cap. I'm now looking to fine a way to insulate my loft without reducing ventilation and causing condensation. Overall the PIV has worked at reducing my humidity levels. I'm sitting around 47-55%
@@mrmiruk we just had one fitted too. Out of interest how long did it take to lower the humidity levels? Our bedrooms would sit at 80-90% during winter (before nuaire was installed) now after 2 days since we had itinstalled, i'm seeing humidity levels down to 70s, but ideally I want it down to low 50s. Does it take a while to get to those levels?
@@NastyRhythm my humidity got to the 50s in a few days but we didn't have 80%+ like yours so I imagine yours will take atleast a week. Drying your clothes inside does slow it down though as it's constantly fighting your house humidity + new humidity that comes with every clothes wash.
condensation is awesome
I love the damp!
😂🤣😂
Might be worth describing the various types of survey available.
Really interesting talk. I had to have my old house tanked before I could get a mortgage on it. Subsequently the Listed Building Officer (LBO) went nuts (tho fortunately didn't insist we took it off again). Having checked the outside ground level he pointed out that the issue was actually penetrating damp. He was basically against tanking solutions in above ground situations, because it trapped moisture in the wall. Can't say I agree with that, as I think moisture moves from warm to cold, which means in winter, moisture travels from inside to outside, so any rising damp is pulled to the outside. He was right about the ground level tho, it was above the inside floor level, and when we dug down, we found the original stone path about 18" below the surface. While I get it, that Lime mortars (esp hot and lime putty mixes) are much more vapour permeable than NHL mixes, and of course Portland mixes, I'm a great believer in using appropriate new tech as well. The LBO pointed out that when built, many stone buildings had a Lime Render applied, which was regularly coated with Limewash. This afforded some protection against driving rain, and also wicked any moisture out of the wall. Clearly applying a water repellant/vapour permeable treatment to the wall is a good deal cheaper than rendering it with a Lime Mortar. As someone once said, damp control is about the 3 D's - Deflection, Drainage and Drying, tho in this day and age, maybe we should add ventilation to that list. By the way our tanking/ground lowering was done 30 years ago, and we have no damp issues in the house. Our only problem is some spalling of the outside stonework, but this is confined to an area where the wall was repointed with a Portland Cement Mortar.
Great balance now Roger very interesting and informative interview. Your channel is an inspiration. I hope mine does as well! 😂
Hey any advice for damp and mould on walls with no insulation in cavity
50 s bugalow timber floors
Great channel 👍
Always start from the top going down. Roof, chimney. Flashing. Guttering. Walls not pointed. For 5 years i had roofers round. Never solved my issue. I Was told condensation. Chimney and bad render was causing issues. Finally removed the chimney and looking good. Water travels a long way. Mine went vertical for a 4/5 metres.
pivs are awesome
i use the dryrods. they are brilliant
I'm a glazing service engineer and regularly get called out to conservatorys with customers complaining about condensation, yet on arrival there is two heaters going drying clothes in there 🤦♂️. They look baffled when I say what the problem is.
My sister lives in a 300 year cottage and its riddled with damp. Think shes had every damp expert look at it and she has had numerous work done. She has the extraction unit fitted and its not gone, will show here this video about positive air flow. Apparently there is a old stream that runs under the house but unless she knocks it down we will never know
And what was done? Tanking? Injections? Osmosis electrical devices? Renders?
If yes to any of those then you’re going down the wrong road. 300 year old cottages are based on breathability and permeability. This is especially important for buildings in challenging environments (such as very wet ground)
Anything non breathable solution will not help and will only trap moisture, saturate the fabric of the building making it colder and more prone to condensation.
You also need to get the basics right like clear gutters, good drains, pointing etc.
My PIV is brilliant, the window vac is back in the box and it was used every morning on saturated windows.
Is it cold in the house now
@@rozzer666 No
Do you know how much it is costing you to run?
The controversial issue of rising damp is resolved for me when I look at the brick bridge over the Towy River in Carmarthen, the sides of which descend into the water. If rising damp existed, surely damp bricks and moisture would be visible above the water level? However, on a clear day it's bone dry. I'm dealing with a wet cellar in a Victorian renovation and have researched damp issues extensively. Finally decided to go with ventilation so this video was helpful and interesting. Thanks 👍
Hi Hannah
The issue of rising damp is not controversial, everyone who knows anything about building knows it exists. The example of canal and river bridges is often quoted as some proof that rising damp is a myth but canal and river bridges were built with a water proof cement of high concentration and they used very hard engineering bricks. They used the same materials for railway bridges. There are houses built in this way but they are few and far between. Often they are civic buildings.
I am intrigued by your example of the brick bridge. I know Camarthen a little bit but not as well as you and the only bridge I can think of that crosses the Towy in the town is the 1930's concrete bridge. Can you send me some details or reference to the brick bridge you are talking about?
If you have researched damp extensively you will know that there are many effective ways to make cellars habitable but merely letting the water in and then drying it with evaporation through the air will not give you a habitable space.
Cellars can often be as damp in the summer as they are in the winter. Humid air entering the cellar condenses on the walls and floors.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks for your reply, Roger. I'll take a picture for you on the next dry day, although I hear your point. I wasn't aware that this sort of concrete existed in the 1930's but I'm no expert. Yes, I will be using a combination of French drains and ventilation to start with... If that doesn't sort it out, as a last resort I'll use the bubble mesh to tank the worst area. Thanks again for your channel, I do enjoy your videos and bought a Dewalt impact driver on your recommendation, which has been a joy xox
Thanks. I think every problem is individual and it’s good to investigate thoroughly before throwing blanket Solutions out. The thing I will say is that, if you have to vacate your property often to keep it dryer then there must be a problem? I know houses where I can stay all day every day. Absolutely no problem in fact quite the opposite very dry. The Sun is hitting the property all day long on one side or the other. My property? No chance sun does not hit it, especially in the winter and in the summer not all day front and back. Get some sun in the morning and evening. This results in ridiculous condensation damp, mould everywhere.
There has to be built in Solutions. I feel like I understand this very well now. PIV is a must? Another ventilation system in the house as well? There are some people who cannot vacate the property. They are housebound elderly and disabled as an example, but I don’t understand if you have to vacate the property regularly. Then in my opinion it’s not fit for a living why even build something like that, and if you do build that, then you should build in there filtration, ventilation, whatever is needed.
Very instructive and fun as well!
Just about to look up what m v h r stood for when you explained it😂
I wonder if a PIV/drimaster would work in a warmer country? You can still have +70% humidity with the sun hitting the roof. Maybe it can be set to not switch off until it hits a warmer temperature?
Really great chat, thanks chaps. Any reccomendations for a PIV system for a property without a loft space?
Verntaxia produce an ingenious device called pozidry compact pro. That unit is designed for homes with no loft.
I had a piv or what ever its called fitted all I can say my house was nice and cosy and warm now it's soo cold the air pumping in is soo cold so I went into the loft turned it off and blocked it off now my home is nice and warm
Dehumidifier is the way to go warms the room as well. Outside air can have more moisture in than inside the house so putting more in.
In the Uk winter that’s a myth. Typically the outside colder air is actually drier and will have a lower volume of moisture (Humidity) than the internal air. Cold air can’t hold as much water as warmer air, so a higher relative humidity doesn’t mean a higher volume of water.
@@JB-tc8el True depending on temperature but you will be filling house with cold air which you have to heat up.
@@111isok drier air is easier to heat than humid air. Also its a small trade off to cure condensation and mould forming. We've just had one fitted and although you can feel the air it is not as bad as you'd think. I'd rather that than mould and condensation dampness
@@NastyRhythm Not sure why you answer this to me. I think dehumidifier are great. I always use my air con in dehumidifier mode at 25 degree dries the wood out to stop wood worm.