Pressure VS Vacuum | Which one is Better for Resin Casting | Resin Casting Basics
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- Pressure VS Vacuum | Which one is Better for Resin Casting | Resin Casting Basics
In this video I will walk you through the aspects of using a pressure pot and vacuum chamber for resin casting. I will show you how you can use them, what are the good and bad sides of both. In the end you will be able to decide which one is better for your needs and projects. Can you use a vacuum chamber to degas resin for resin casting? Can you use a pressure pot to remove air bubbles from your casting? If you are looking for answers to those questions then you are in the right place.
Resin that I recommend. Use this discount code for 10% off your shopping - "casualdiy"
resinpro.eu/home.php
My Resin Casting Tutorial Playlist:
• Resin Tutorials by Cas...
Pressure Pot -
- UK link - houseofresin.co.uk/resin-cast...
- USA link - amzn.to/3jQyaG9
Vacuum Chamber:
- UK link - amzn.to/3mowbL2
- USA link - amzn.to/3GA0FS7
Air Compressor:
- UK link - amzn.to/3jO9yy2
- USA link - amzn.to/3vXevcm
All my tools, woodworking accessories and video making kit is now in one place for you to check out. These are Amazon affiliate links. With a purchase through this link, you get an awesome tool and you will support my channel without spending a penny more. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, thank you for your support!
Link to Amazon is just below! Thanks!
Tools I use and recommend:
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/casualdiy
You can now support my channel via Patreon. If you feel my content adds value for you or its entertaining then help me continue to do so.
Any donations via Patreon are so much appreciated, you can find out more here: / casualdiy Thanks!
You can support my channel by dropping some change in the Casual DIY Tip Box. Thanks for your support!
www.paypal.me/TomaszFranczyk
You can find me on:
Instagram - / casualdiy
Twitter - / casualdiy
Facebook - / casualdiy
Etsy - www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CasualDe...
Web page - www.casualdiy.com
Email - casualdiyuk@gmail.com
#casualdiy #woodworking #resincasting
DISCLAIMER
My videos are for entertaining purposes only, your safety is your responsibility. Please do not follow my actions if you find them unsafe. - Jak na to + styl
😮i felt that i was watching a Discovery Channel Documentary😮. I don't even have interest in resin casting but I'm compelled to buy because of this video...
Great job😂
Lol thanks 👍😄
Woow! What an excellent and very informative video! I have never played with the resins, but now I feel it might be a lot of fun! Thank you, Tomek!
No problem mate, glad you liked the video 👍
Stellar explanation and comparison of the two methods! Ten thumbs up!
Thank you kindly 👍
Thank you Tomasz, for this very clear and detailed video. I have watched many, as I try to determine which one of these processes to use for my resin projects. This video covered all the pros and cons! Excellent! Now I feel confident to make my choice!!!
Glad that my video was helpful 👍 thank you for watching
Thank you for speaking clearly and slowly. And this is the first good explanation that I have found on the difference.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Really explained well. Definitely keeping this video for reference.
Thank you kindly for watching 👍
Wonderful video! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for watching 👍
This was great! I recently purchased a pressure pot and a vacuum chamber but was not sure how or when to use one unit over the other, now I know. I purchased a silicone handle mold and was going to put it in the vacuum chamber - boy what a mess that would have been. Thanks so much for doing this for all of us.
Glad it was helpful!
Just a thought. You don't necessarily have to pull a full vacuum in order to get good results, thereby reducing the time you have the resin in the vacuum pot quite a bit. Second, once you remove the bubbles and pour, nothing says you cannot put the mold + resin back into the vacuum pot. Yes it would take a bit more time, but it won't foam the second time, while still removing the bubbles from the pour. Third, I say why not go with both--degas the resin in the vacuum pot, pour and throw in the pressure pot!
First - if you don't put full vacuum it will take far longer to get the air out of resin as there is less pressure.
Second - it depends on the size and shape of the mold if it will fit in the pot, and the bubbles coming out will not cause any issues ie if you fill to the top it may overspill and give you poor results.
Third - doing both is a waste of time and pointless, pressure pot will eliminate the airbubbles entirely.
You need to consider curing time of resin as well, usually the resin with long open window will self degas if the right conditions are met. Fast curing resins can only be done in pressure pot as it works instantly.
@@CasualDIY Curing a resin in a vacuum chamber reduces its boiling point, for thin casting it will be alright but for resin above a certain thickness, heat produces in a vacuum chamber cant be transmitted out as there are not much air to move the heat, added with the reduced boiling point, there might be even more bubbles as the resin boils, so pulling full vacuum and cure the resin in it will certainly create bubbles in thicker cast. In short, curing resin in a vacuum will make it heat up to its reduced boiling point faster and stays at that temperature because excess heat becomes bubbles. (so it might be the best to vacuum the resin, and leave it outside so that heat can be transmitted away from the cast)
On the other hand, pressure pot increases the boiling point of the resin, hence it will cure to a higher heat without boiling (which creates bubbles) on thicker cast (which can be seen in the video, the cup of the resin in the pressure pot had melted compared to the vacuum one). It creates no extra bubble as it does not boils even at higher heat, however, the downside will be that the lifespan of the silicon mold will greatly be reduced because the heat produced were not removed through boiling.
By doing both, its not a waste of time because it appears to slightly increase the strength of the resin because compresses the air in it just creates a super tiny bubble that waits to expand into its original size, which is technically internal pressure point. It can also reduces the curing time on thicker cast (because increased boiling point = higher heat cap in the resin, more heat = faster cure) , but at the cost of the mold's lifespan.
I am by no means any good in resins, just take what I said as a pinch of salt.
its a really good and educational video by the way, Thank you so much! =D
@@ZiFengLearnstoMake It all depends on the resin you use, poly and epoxy, thin and thick, slow curing and long curing. Depending on what you use it will have it ups and downs. In general I recommend epoxy as its bit easier to work with and the heat seems not to be such an issue in pressure or vacuum pots. I think what you mentioned is more for the poly variants. This topic is vast and there is no one good answer in all cases. However the "DIY" resins usually are easier to work with and work well with pressure pots.
Most if not all my resins i use are fast room temperature cure resins like the polyurethanes i use you only have 3 plus minutes before cream times all up cure in about 6 to ten minutes no time for vacuum lol 😆 the slower resins I use like polyester and epoxy are bit slower like 30min so one has to be smart in the mixing an pure and mould design 😀 has any one every use ridged polyurethane foams hmmm lol you have to work fast using them and big pressure in the moulds i have made dental trays with polyurethane ridged foams in alloy moulds with a heated mould and you have to work fast total set up is like 6 minutes no time for vacuum but in this system we want a foaming resins obviously its a foaming reaction lol ok but the finished product is a hard polyurethane plastic most of my moulding are functional and load bearing but still have to have quality and look good 👍
So helpful! Great video! Thank you so much!!
Thank you for watching 👍
Great comparison mate! I'm sure that will help solve the mysteries for folks who are wanting to start casting.👍👍
Thank you. Yes I think there is a lot of misinformation about this. So hopefully this video will be helpful 👍
Awesome comparison video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching
Really interesting and informative video, thank you for posting!
Thank you for watching 👍
This video was brilliant. Just perfect. I have watched other videos to understand when to use Vacuum and when to use pressure, but finally it's crystal clear.. Thank you!
Glad that my video was some help 👍
Great video. I watch all I can about this subject, as I have both machines, but haven't used them yet. Hoping your Autumn is going well!
Thank you. Best set up is to have both machines. Yes we had beautiful weather.
Fantastic helpful video. Thank you very much, from Downunder in Tasmania!
Hehe glad I was able to help 👍
Thank you Thomas for the information.
Thank you for watching 👍
This is very helpful. Thank you!!!
Thank you for watching
Great explanation and demonstration! I have them both - use the vacuum chamber for silicone and the pressure pot for resin. Can't imagine working without them - how bad the quality would be.
Thank you kindly 👍
Great video and so well explained, now I can make a more informed purchase 🙏
Glad you enjoyed the video
Think you! THIS makes perfect sense. I will be using both in my castings. Thank you for sharing. Best regards from Ohio. WALTER
Thank you for watching 👍
Useful information, I have learned a lot.
Thank you for watching 👍
Excellent video and absolutely perfect timing for me. I have been torn asunder over this topic🙂
Thank you for watching
That was an amazing video 😎 learnt loads
Thank you for watching 👍😁
Thank you too.
Hello Thomas,
I have tried epoxy resin project twice. I couldn't. the result was disappointing. Later I realized that this job has many details. And there are aspects that I need to learn. And I didn't have the courage to try again. but someday I will definitely use an epoxy resin for woodworking. Thank you for sharing this detailed and beautiful information about resin casting. all the best. See you.
Yes working with resin can be challenging and expensive. It's always worth to do as much research as possible before own experimentation. Got a whole playlist with some resin tutorials if you want to check them out👍
Thank you very much for his Video. It helped me a lot. I´ll go with a pressure pot, cause I want to cast Resin in Molds. You made my day
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching
Very cool thanks 😀🤘🏼
Thank you for watching 👍
Great video! In an ideal world I think I'd use a pressure pot for my pieces, but in the real world, where budget is the most important thing, I'll try a vacuum chamber first.
Nothing compares to vacuum chamber. Shame they are so expensive...
this helped me a lot
thank you
Glad to hear it 👍
@@CasualDIY I make molds and casting, and I'm making my vacuum chamber, i'm not regretting it, I'll use it for making silicon molds, and now I'm thinking of a PRESSURE one!
thanks again :)
What a great informative video, thank you. I'm thinking about doing more with resin and trying to decide which one to get 1st.
As a bonus tip for you and/or your followers, if you work on cars, that vacuum pump is essential in doing AC repairs and fill ups, so it is useful for at least one other thing I can think of. 😏
Thanks for the video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks very clear explanation
Thank you for watching 👍
thanks. very clear
Glad to hear that!
Ideally, there would be a pressure canner that has an added attachment point (and sealable when used with heat) for a compressor so you can use it for preserving or curing. A vacuum chamber can also be used for vacuum sealing jars of dehydrated food.
Hello Thomas, i was looking for those, but dont really know the difference. Thanks for this video, because of you i know... Take care and thanks again.
Thank you for watching and I'm glad my video was some help👍
Thank you for this! I've been using a vaccum chamber and always get bubbles when I pour with anything in the mix. Clear is fine but bubbles get stuck on glitter easily. I hope a pressure pot will fix things.
Pressure Pot is for sure the way forward 👍
Lot of info cheers
Thank you for watching 👍
I use 48 hour long-pour low viscosity art resin. I mix it, degass it in a semi vacuum, pour it into my mold, put the mold into a semi vacuum.
I'm not implying that is the best way. It's clunky and cumbersome, and doesn't work for medium or high viscosity resin.
I'm making a pressure pot next month to use with thicker resin and faster curing resins.
Wish I'd seen this 24 hours ago. Watching how to videos in reactive sense instead of proactive one never the best method. Nonetheless, your vid has answered my question as to the mess inside my diy vacuum chamber. Thanks, now I know.
The pressure not only minimises the bubble size, but also helps the air dissolve it in the resin, removing bubbles entirely.
THANKS FOR GREAT VIDEO REALLY FULL OF GOOD INFORMATION WILL WATCH AGAIN ... DAVID..WE ARE IN N.S.W. AUSTRALIA...
Thank you kindly, all the best from Poland 👍😁
Thank you :)
Perfect 🎉
thanks a lot sir verry heelpful
Most welcome
thank you so much for this video,. Super like and new subscriber. I was searching vacuum , and came across a talented turner that uses vacuum and then pressure chamber for wood turning,. I became overwhelmed as a new turner thinking I have to have both. Thank you. Ok edit here . I am wanting to do resin wood turning and never done. Do I need both?
Pressure pot is what I would recommend. Vacuum Chamber only if you want to make molds.
That was an excellent tutorial. YOU answered all of my questions Thank you. I agree with your suggestion that you ideally need both but if you can only afford one get the pressure pot. I suspect you could use an electric car pump if you don't have a compressed air source.
That potential could be too weak
@@CasualDIY The one I am looking at will get up to a maximum pressure of 150PSI (10 bar) at a maximum airflow of 85L/min.
-
@@stephenleach3110 I would read the specs of the pot first as it will say minimal values for the pump
For resin in vacumm about time you could propy coom the resin or do it in a cook arier or outside so it cures slowerr
For clear resin casting, you need to degass the resin after mixing, pour the mold, then use a pressure pot to have the best chance of not having a bubble. You need both.
Depending what resin you are using. For that long of a process you would have to use a resin with very long open window and I mean long. Usually those types of resins are used for river tables etc and are self degassing - curing time several days. If you degass the resin then pour it into a mold then you will introduce air bubbles in the process. Pointless task if you have a pressure pot that will remove 99% of visible air bubbles.
What happens if you mix degas , pour in mold , degas the mold in chamber and remove ?
In vacuum degas think like a fish. A larger surface area allows for faster degas. Also, heat and temperature make a difference. If possible magnetic stir.
nice vice grip garage intro
The vacuum pump has an other important workshop use ...... vacuum chuck for wood lathe.
Hmm I don't have a lathe unfortunately 😢
They’ve got lots of uses around both a shop and/or laboratory.
Great video but a little confused… when mixing you introduce bubbles got that, then you can use vacuum chamber or pressure pot got that but what if for my situation specifically if im just trying to get bubbles out before I poor on or over something can the pressure pot not do that in a timely manner? Im not worried about re introducing bubbles I can torch those but all the micro bubbles from mixing I want to deal with. I just got a vacuum chamber and it is not very fast and still figuring it out but pressure pot seems more promising but is it just for casting? Thanks
As I have mentioned in the video, the pressure pot does not remove air bubbles from resin. What it does, with great pressure it collapses the air bubbles to tiny particles that are not visible to human eye. And they stay that way as the resin cures. If you release the pressure before the resin cures they will give back to initial sizes. Hope this clears things out
@@CasualDIY Yes it does, I am new to it all and figuring things out, I asked because I had purchased a pressure pot and it came yesterday so was trying to figure out if I was going to send it back because I am not casting parts… I couldn’t help myself and opened it anyway and ran a couple quick tests…. After mixing some resin with a ton of bubbles both big and micro I put it in pot for 20 min and it came out clear and I poured it. Did have a few bubbles but i poured it sloppy but it did work better than the vacuum chamber which led me to believe If I want to use the vacuum chamber only then I need to find a much lower viscosity resin. Thanks for the reply appreciate it!
Hi Tomasz great video and easy to follow tutorial as always from you. Would you recommend any specific manufacturers of pressure pots that you see on Polish market? Unfortunately, link to UK website doesn’t work properly. And purchase from Amazon US is not a viable option due to high transport and duty costs
I bought mine years ago and to my knowledge they don't sell them anymore. It's a hard to come by product. Have a look at House of Resin store, they used to have it
Thanks!@@CasualDIY
Many thanks, that's a brilliant video!
Is a vacuum chamber applicable for sodium alginate to make impressions? I know how to make sodium alginate curing process longer (up to 20 min), but I don't know how sodium alginate will "behave" in a vacuum chamber, if it will raise 4x times or even more.
Hi, sorry not familiar with sodium alginate.
I have seen this video over and over from many different youtubers. I would like to see some experimentation done. You purposely mixed the air into the resin and for obvious resins to show the different between the 2 methods. I would like to see part A and part B vacuumed separately first and then genitally mixed and re vacuumed and see how much bubbles are produced. I suspect the amount of bubbling would be dramatically reduced. Most liquid holds as much air as empty space does, so vacuuming the A & B parts before mixing should extract the dissolved gasses out of the resin before they are mixed. They would not be curing so there would be no time crunch, you could leave the part A & B in there for hours if needed. I dont think there would be any sublimation between the 2 parts but if there was you could do part A and part B separately and then mix them. I was just curious and I hadn't seen anyone try this method before. Might be fun to watch.
Your predictions are most likely correct. It's just not a very time efficient way of doing this. It would take far longer than it needs to for not much improved in the finished product.
I’m curious to see how “genitally mixed” is achieved. Are there videos? 😂
@@markgearing I think that would be an over-18 channel...
Great! I also want to know whether we need to pouring resin in vacuum or not?
Hmm I think my video answers that question quite well. What projects do you think making ?
Love your Irish accent !
Good that I'm Polish 🤣
An idea I had - relevant for fast curing resins
Can you degas the resin and the hardener *before* mixing, and then mix them under vacuum using some device? (Something like the magnetic stirrer that chemists use inside beakers)
Then theoretically the mixing won’t introduce any air bubbles - and your resin will be ready for casting immediately after mixing
You won't have enough time to do that under pressure. How would you operate that device and how it would behave in such great pressure
Could anyone share a link on how to make a vacuum chamber lid like that ?
Great video, thanks. For vacuum chamber, is it possible to greatly reduce risk of foaming in mold, by first outgassing the air bubbles from the liquid resin in the chamber, then carefully pouring the resin into the mold (to avoid creating new bubbles), then placing the mold (with resin) into the vacuum chamber while it cures?
You can, however its not efficient you have to be there all the time during the whole process to control foaming. Plus you would have to use resin that has got a very long open window. For casting I mold it's far better to use pressure chamber.
@@CasualDIY Thank you!
Hi Tomas
I think you will find the acrylic lid is okay for resins, but not for Cactus Juice. Cactus is often used in a vacuum pot to remove air bubbles from wood, before it's then cast in resin in a pressure pot but it damaged acrylic lids, but not glass.
As such, if just for normal resin, acrylic lid is okay.
hope it helps :)
Edit - I didn't wait until the end of the video..... LOL
😁👍
Very cool, have you tired vacuuming then pressure for the same cast?
Will make no difference. The pressure pot will eliminate any visible air bubbles so you would just be wasting your time.
I'm looking for budget setup for vacuum resin infusion, do you think your setup could be modified to make it possible? I'm thinking I could drill a hole in the acrylic lid and feed and seal a resin tube through (the tube that is connected to the mould and is sucking in the resin)... What do you think?
Sorry I'm not familiar with resin infusion process.
Thanks for sharing.
I have few questions about vacuum chamber
1 can I put in the chamber resin mixed with mica or glitter or is it only for clear resin?
2 what about flash cure...can it happen during degassing as it takes over 25 minutes?
3 can it be use with any viscosity resin as I have resin pro art deluxe and it is very high viscosity?
Thank you.
Hi,
1. You can put dyed resin in the vacuum chamber but you have to consider that potentially it will take longer to degass and the foaming process may introduce something unforseen to the mix. Hard to say what would be the end result as it will all depend on many factors like type of resin, curing time, viscosity etc.
2. Degassing time will vary on many factors. How much resin you put I the chamber, the more resin the longer it will take. On viscosity, the thicker the resin the longer it will take. Resin under vacuum and pressure will cure faster. Very hard to pin point how much faster. I would only suggest using resin with curing time of 1h+
3. Viscosity doesn't matter as much as curing time does. The thicker the resin the longer it will take. As mentioned before for vacuum chamber I would only use resins with curing time 1h+
For fast setting resins I would suggest using a pressure chamber that's if you can fit your project (mold) inside.
@@CasualDIY thank you very much
Nice video 😊 I have a question, I will mix epoxy resin to make a small table with a pressure pot and I would like to know him long should I keep it on the pressure pot before putting it on the table.
Thank you
Do you mean vacuum chamber? Pressure Pot works only when you leave the resin to set in it.
@@CasualDIY vaccum chamber
@@woodworking4459 you keep it until it stops bubbling, how long will depend on quantity of resin - the more you put the longer it will take, on viscosity of the resin, the thicker the resin the longer it will take.
Can you use a silicone mold inside the pressure pot? I’m aiming to do flower preservation.
Yes, that won't be a problem
I'm heaving trouble with my vacuum chamber the pot itself is not a meddle so the top is see through and so is the pot how do I get it to seal. Thanks
Have you got a link to the pot you got? Or a picture you could send me by email?
Hi! Can you put unmixed resin ( resin and hardener separately) in the vacuum chamber then mix it later?
Yes you can but you will introduce those bubbles back when you mix both components
Hi, your pressure pot, is that the same pressure pot for paint sprayers, where you are just not using the pressure valve? Thanks.
No, this one is specially adapted to resin work. But to my knowledge there is not much difference between them.
Hello and thanks for the video.
I have purchased a similar vacuum pump+chamber, although my model is Mophorn RS-1. I have tried it and the bubbles start to come out, as in the video. But they never finish, and the needle never reaches -30, it always stays at -28. I have checked the connections, but in my opinion they are tight and should not leak.
Do you know what can happen?
How should I proceed to remove as many bubbles as possible, should I open the outside air valve when it is "boiling", i.e. with a majority of bubbles on the surface? Repeat the process several times?
Thanks in advance.
If the bubbles are coming out from resin you hold it under vacuum until it stops - be mindful of the foaming if it will overspill then slightly and slowly release the vacuum. Depending on quantity it may take a long time for all the air bubbles to escape. Hence this is only suitable for resin with very long open window. We are talking about 30 - 40 minutes - depending on quantity, the more resin the longer it may take.
Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury. The altitude you live at has a MAJOR impact on the inches of mercury that a vacuum pump can produce. For each 1,000 ft of elevation, you get 1" less of vacuum. In the mile high city of Denver, you won't get much above 25". And that is also why water boils at a lower temperature at higher elevations.
What about degassing the resin inside the vacuum chamber then pouring this degassed resin inside a mould and degas it again slowly? Will this work or will it overflow as severe?
It could work but the process would be very slow and long which means most likely the resin would set before you finish the process
Great video , i have a question when you say i took 20 minute for the vaccum chamber . You made it run for 20 minute or you did it for 5 min and let the resin inside for the 15 minute left ?
Mix of both. You have to watch the foaming. When that cleared just let it run on full vacuum
@@CasualDIY thank u the best
You mentioned that the pump with the vacuum chamber was a dedicated use item as opposed to the air compressor. I've been wondering if there is another use.
Is a vacuum chamber's pump suitable to use with a vacuum bag?
I can't see why not as long as you can get the right connectors 👍
You can use it to vacuum seal dry foods (beans, rice, pasta) in canning jars. As for sealing bags, it can't be done without introducing air into the chamber.
Which one should I buy…yes
Depends on your needs and what projects you will tackle.
@@CasualDIY both sounds good to me
Ive been doing mould making for yrs i mosly use polyurethane elastomer and to remove bupples i try not to mix any into my mix an a warm mould can gelp to burst those little surface bubbles on your parts ive been doing composite engineering for many yrs andi only use a vacuum or pressure pot for complexs moulds that have to be perfect same with carbon fibre bagging wet lay ups and forgings .
Kind regards Jasmine the JDM girl 👧 from Sydney Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you kindly for watching 👍
Hi,
I have a question. I am making a large resin cuboid with over 8 litres of resin. I don't think it's going to fit in a pressure chamber and I can't have any bubbles in it. I am also scared of my resin cracking when I pour (as it happened on my first attempt). My question is: what do you suggest I do for a larger resin quantitity?
Many thanks!
I would do it stages if possible, maybe 2l at a time? Not sure if that would be possible in your project. Plus you may get visible layers if you do that.
Try to find a Resin with very long open window that's designed for deep castings. These type of resins are self degassing mainly used for river tables.
What would the results be if your vacuumed the two resin components in separate cups. That would remove any trapped air that was intruduced during shippng. Then blend them GENTLY before pouring in the mold outside of the vacuum chamber? Seems like that give much more working time before the short working time of some resisns starts to set.
You would still introduce a lot of air when mixing as both components need to be mixed very well.
Thank you for your tips. Is it possible to put a epoxy diorama with polymer clay inside the pressure pot?
And what resins are great to use which do not yellow up after some months?
If its in a mold that will fit the pot then yes. I recommend resin from Resinpro.eu very good resin. Got a discount code for them as well if you want. Glass Cast is also very good at a reasonable price 👍
@@CasualDIY thanks!
My diorama will be painted with an acrylic paint. I saw on that site that the epoxy is moisture sensitive. Would it work if I seal my diorama with a sealer first?
And which epoxy on that site do you recommend? I saw so many haha. My diorama will be in epoxy completely. It will be around 40 cm high and 30 in width.
Will a pressure pot or vacuum chamber remove LARGE voids say 2mm or 5mm or larger. I have an electronics project that uses a quick setting epoxy for potting that starts setting up in 8 minutes. If you get it into the pressure pot or vacuum chamber in about 3 minutes will it remove the large voids? Small bubbles of 0.5mm is not a problem, but it cannot have large voids. Thank you for any suggestions/advice. Unfortunately changing the epoxy is not an option. The cavity filled with epoxy is Ø6mm x 35mm deep and filled with a syringe.
If the casting mold is not filled up correctly with resin ie you got large voids then it's the case of distributing the resin in the casting mold. Only then the pressure pot will remove small air bubbles. It may not help with distributing the resin in the mold.
thank you so much for the reply, what are your thoughts about the sucess using a vacuum chamber for this project.
@@jonocean2621 none, vacuum chamber is for long curing resin only
Fantastic video, very informative. I like to put dried flowers in my castings, would they be ok in the pressure pot or would they get squashed please?
If it will be submerged in resin it will be fine.
@CasualDIY great, thank you for the speedy reply x
@@CasualDIY sorry to trouble you. Please do you have any pressure pot recommendations (preferably not modified ones) as I'm not sure of everything to look for
@@anitagush9037 long time ago House or Resin were selling pressure pots for resin. You can check them out if they still offer them
@@CasualDIY thank you, I just have but sadly not now
Would a silicone mold deform in the pressure pot? With resin inside
No it won't.
What oil do you put in the vacuum chambers pump?
Cheers
A dedicated oil for this type of pump. You will have details of what oil to use in the manual of your pump.
Which one would you use if using dried flowers please in resin
Pressure pot always.
This is exactly what I was looking for to show me the difference between vacuum and pressure when using casting resin. I’ve been using resin in the artistic end for acrylic pouring and I am familiar with how to use and mix it. But I am also an avid woodworker and wood turner and I want to combine resin and wood and turn it on a lathe. I just got myself very confused when to use vacuum or pressure. Thanks for explaining the differences and demo. You made it easy to understand.
David f USA
Glad it was helpful! Sometimes its difficult to understand the difference as you would think that an air vacuum would be better however in case of resin casting it may not be the case.
@@CasualDIY may I ask you one question. Most of the e
Resin I have used were for covering canvas or items like coasters, etc. I want to take a piece of rough wood or something I configure and place it in a bucket or simple form. Then pour resin around it, let it cure, then turn it. My Delia is what kind of resin should I use. Some resins are for a shallow pour and some for deep pours. I’m not sure what I should look for here in the U.S. I am assuming you are in Great Britain and are unable to recommend a brand. So do you have any advice what I should look for?
I appreciate an6 help you can throw my way.
@@davidfrazier2277 there are many types of resin, for pouring I would recommend epoxy for 2cm - 5cm deep pours. I would recommend Zack Higgins CZcams channel. He is based in US and he has vast knowledge on resin casting.
@@CasualDIY Thank you, I will.
What about degassing your resin in a vacuum chamber, then pouring your molds and then putting them in a pressure pot to cure? Would there be any benefit to that versus just putting them in a pressure pot? Obviously working with resins that won't set before it's finished degassing.
The pressure pot will give you perfect results. No need to vacuum the resin before👍
That is the standard procedure I have been using for years. Just pressure potting compressed bubbles. I have had resin castings deform if the item gets warm from bubbles expanding. For acrylic the pressurized bubbles are creating stress.
Vacuum. Pour high. Pressure pot. Great results. YMMV
Super ,děkuji.(:
Hi SIR.. THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY..MAY WE ASK A QUESTION AS WE HAVE THIS WEEK BOUGHT A VACUUM TANK....THE QUESTION IS HOW BIG A CONTAINER CAN YOU PUT INTO THE VACUUM AS THE BOOKLET WHICH WAS IN THE BOX SAID NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES WIDE AND NO MORE THAN EIGHT INCHES HIGH...THIS IS A FIVE GALLON ONE SO THAT DOSE NOT SEEM TO MAKE SENSE AT ALL... SORRY TO BOTHER YOU BUT HOPE YOU MAY SOLVE THE WORRY....THANKING YOU...DAVID..AUSTRALIA...
You can put a pot as big as the chamber. But it all depends what you want to use it for, resin degassing or silicone degassing?
Will the pressure pot force resone into worm holes in wood blanks?
It should do however I would use resin that is not so thick.
Is it worth putting the mixed silicone in the pressure pot before pouring a mold, or will the bubbles just come back?
They will come back, pressure pot does not remove the air bubbles per say. It squeezes them to microscopic sizes that wont be visible to human eye. As resin sets it closes the air bubbles in that state. If you release the pressure before resin is set the air bubbles will come back to original size,
Id like to see a test if it affected the strength!
It won't affect the strength unless the resin will not cure correctly.
Maybe I'm just slow, but are you saying a pressure pot is a bad choice when casting molds? I'm making dice and using silicon molds, and I want to make sure I buy the right thing. Thank you :)
I think to make molds it's better to invest in a vacuum chamber. Usually the material you use to make molds has got a long open window and it's easier to remove air from them with a vacuum chamber. A pressure pot does not remove air bubbles as per say, with the pressure it squeezes the air bubbles to sizes that are not visible to human eye and as the resin sets to a solid state they will remain in that size. However if you were to use silicon or something similar there is a good chance that the air bubbles will go back to their initial size as silicon is not hard and solid when cured. Hope this is clear.
What about a mixed workflow - put component parts separately into the vacuum chamber, then mix carefully, then pour and put into pressure chamber for curing.
If you got a pressure chamber there is no need for anything else. As I showed in the video I introduced as much air bubbles as I could in the resin and straight it went to the pressure chamber. And as you seen it came out crystal clear. No need for anything else👍
@@CasualDIY Depends if you have working time though to do that, if you wanted to use a faster setting or different resin or a resin where the pressure method does not work as well may still be fallback?
@@Festoolification I think you confused it Vacuum Chamber. Pressure Chamber is perfect for fast setting resin. You just put your mold with resin to the Pressure Pot, lock it and add air. That's it. Then you just wait for the resin to set👍
I asked a similar queston but only using a vacuum chamber, then mixing carefully before pouring into a mold, bypassing the pressure pot.
Can I add pressure direct inside the silicone mold to reproduce the result I would get from a pressure pot ?
Not sure what you are asking to be honest. If I understand what you mean is that you want to connect a pressure hose to your silicon mold? I did show in the video what pressure is needed in this steel pot for the process to work. Any plastic would explode under pressure like that. But I hope I just didn't understand what you were asking.
@@CasualDIY that was pretty much it 😂 indeed the mold would explode. I was just thinking to ways to making it work such as using low pressure and making a "cage" around the silicone mold. But still, I think the mold would get distorted.
@@thomasfsr in no scenario this will work 😅
Can you help me I won't to build aquarium circulaire from epoxy
So what information do you require?
For the vacuum pot, are there specific requirements for the pot or can you use any good pot that the lid fits on?
No specific requirements but it needs to be a very solid one
@@CasualDIY thanks. I have several that were used in my partners canning projects I haven't rehomed...
SHORT VERSION VACUUM CHAMBER IS GOOD TO STABILIZE WOOD WITH CACTUS JUICE,
AND PRESSURE POT IS BETTER FOR CASTING THE RESIN IN YOUR MOLDS !
By putting more pressure into the resin will it get hazy? Because I think by adding more pressure it will add more moist into the chamber and the resin will absorb it? Just a thought
You should have a filter between the compressor and the pot. Makes no difference how much pressure you add, if you don't have a filter then moisture will get in regardless
Can the same pump be used for both?
One pumps air out (hence vaccume chamber and you need a vaccume pump) and the other one pumps the air in ( hence pressure chamber and you need an air compressor) Two different tools.
20:59 i thought I saw something in the pressure pot casting, but I couldn't tell if it was simply part of the shape of the bottom of the cup, or air bubbles.
If you pause the video at the point above, then zoom in on the left side of the screen, you can see one oblong shape and one circular shape. These certainly LOOK like air bubbles 🤔
Am I mistaken?
I can't see anything but I on my mobile so...
So if I mixed up 1500ml of epoxy in the vacuum that would be a problem if it takes 25 min to be bubbleless as my resin gets hot after about that time and would start smoking up ,its catch 22 really .i do need one as I just had a load of micro bubbles get trapped in my big epoxy dining table and now I got to go back and router it all out as it’s clear resin .I’m not a happy bunny today and now i thinking about buying one as I can’t have this again ,and the weather has changed now so if you doing these in a shed like me then you need to keep it warm in there as I been getting like this cracking of the resin after it has cured and it’s a right pain in the arse .good vid and demo tho mate that helped me out nice one I’m subbing you for that .would of been great if you would of done a litre of epoxy in a small bucket to see how that would go as not everyone casts in a mould ,I just do tables and don’t really pour less than 500 grams a time unless I’m doing seal coats that is but none the less thank you 🙏
If you are making tables with resin and large pours and you are in need of a solution to degass your resin then you got a wrong resin my friend. Vacuum will not work for those quantities. You need a slow setting self degassing resin for tables. 24h cure time self degassing for deep pours.
@@CasualDIY yeah deep cast resin but I have had clear results using warm water to warm it up before hand . I’m getting like snake skin effects after curing some times . You don’t know what causes it do you ?? I sand and polish mine but some times when I’ve polished it it looks really good untill you put a light right close to it and then can see the snake skin hologram. Even though I sanded it the right way thru the grits to 3000 grit some times I get that. I buy my resin from Germany . I’m in the uk . And am paying about 8-£10 per kilo which is the cheapest I’ve found for the results I get with it . I put some of mine work on CZcams . I would be interested to know what you think of what I’ve done . I’ve been doing it for 3 years now and I had no wood work experience so I’m self taught through CZcams vids like your selfs and others . Thanks for replying mate . Top man 👍
@@roxoriginal732 Well first of all the resin may be the problem. I use resin from Resin Pro for deep pours. They got 5cm deep and 10cm deep, and they work great. Now apart from resin itself there may be a lot of issues, like temperature in your workshop, humidity, not mixed correctly etc.
I'll have a look at your videos and see if I can find something.
I’m mixing my resin like that, what should I do instead? ( not that aggressively but same materials)
Sorry not sure what you are trying to ask? How to mix resin? If so then I got a whole video on that czcams.com/video/KhLKcJbldRQ/video.html
@@CasualDIY exactly that, you mentioned in the video that “I shouldn’t mix it in this way, and I’m unsure what part I should about , thank you I’ll check the video out 🌹