Starting the hobby: do you really need a pressure pot? (no but yes)
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- čas přidán 5. 03. 2022
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I'm a novice at dice making but I do a lot of art with resin... Wood carries bubbles into resin when used, so you might want to coat your stirring sticks and toothpicks with resin, silicone, or lacquer before you use them, or invest in different tools.
Resin has an ideal working temperature (listed in its details), so working in hotter temperatures decreases and cooler increases the pot life (it's the same with curing times). I warm my resin before I mix but my studio is 60 degrees (f), so I usually get more pot life than expected. My resin works best at 73f and has a pot life of 30-45 mins, but I usually get 45, twice that with gel state.
Heating resin with a heat gun when it's in its gel state will decrease the viscosity, but that's more of an advanced maneuver (heat it in a wide dish or a glass container). Too much direct heat can cause your resin to smoke, take the heat off the smoking spot until it stops smoking then you can heat it again if you'd like. if your resin starts smoking it will not decrease in clarity unless it starts to darken. Your silicone will burn before your resin, so be careful! This maneuver is used more often to add inserts or colorants into the resin. Too much heat can advance the resin to a different stage in its cure (pot life, gel state, set to touch, surface dry, full cure) but it's much more likely you'll burn the resin first. This is a skill you learn with experience. If heat is intimidating, there are agents that can be used to thicken or thin your resin and/or to increase or decrease working time.
If there are problem spots (voids, bubbles, etc) you can add more resin at any time before the full cure, otherwise, you need to rough up the area before applying more resin or there's a strong chance of the new resin being dislodged with movement or an impact.
Whatever resin you have leftover in your mixing container can be left there, just flip the container over onto a plastic or silicone mat. It'll pop out easily as it cures. You can also lay the container on its side with the stirring stick still in the container, it'll help you pop the resin out.
Lots of good information here. Thanks for the comment and helping folks out!
@@DruidDice There's probably a lot more I could add...
If you don't have a pressure pot then you need extra steps and techniques to get the same results. Resin has a casting depth (or pouring depth) and that is the depth that the resin will naturally release bubbles to the surface. Dice makers like to use a surface coat style of resin because it cures more quickly and it typically has a casting depth of 1/8" (~3mm). What that means is you need to pour a shallow layer and let it cure until it gets to the "set to touch" stage of the cure (it's very sticky and the resin is solid enough that it takes and retains shapes that are applied to it - this is the stage that applied numbers will be retained, the prior stages just want to self-level) then pour another layer. A standard Chessex set ranges from 16mm for the d6 to 20mm for the d20. What that means is that you need to pour upwards of seven layers without techniques before you can apply the mold cap with that size of dice, with techniques you can get it to 3-5 pours. You also want cap molds for dice of the same size (or same pour) so they can all be capped at the same time. If you try and pour without doing it in layers you'll notice that you'll get bubbles on the numbers at about 1/3 of the way up the dice and you'll have bubbles underneath the cap or along the sides of sloping dice (e.g. d20). A pressure pot won't necessarily fix the bubbles at the numbers, so that's something you'll have to fish out when you see deep bubbles while using a pressure pot.
Mixing resins - Pour the hardener in first and the resin on top of it. I gently stir for a 20 count (~10 rotations around the cup in that time) and scrape the sides and repeat until I don't see streaks (which is usually 9-10 times, 3+ mins). I've found that if you mix this way you can scrape the sides without issues (bubbles or incurable resin). If you are using a pressure pot then this doesn't matter as much.
The topic that everyone gets excited about is colorants. In resin, the saying is "embrace the unexpected" because you just can guarantee anything will come out the way you planned. So to get the best results you need to know a bit about how colors interact. The first thing and this is key, is the ratio of colorants shouldn't make up more than 1/10 of the resin, going beyond this will get weird results, but with experimentation, it could be exactly what you want. So if a set of dice is 40ml, then no more than 4ml should be colorants. There's some room to flex on that rule but that's an advanced subject. There are three main types that dice makers use, alcohol ink, pastes, and dry pastes (this includes mica powders). Quality is important with colorants, or you have to use a lot of the colorant to get the result you want. In the end, it comes down to who makes the best color that you want to use if you don't want to make it yourself. I recommend getting primary colors and mixing your own colors. Art is as much about exploring as it is about expressing yourself, but time is money so figure out what works for you. Colorants also have different weights and that affects how they interact with each other. Some colorants are specifically designed to sink or float.
Alcohol inks are common, easy to obtain, and used with multiple other mediums, they come in opaque or translucent. If you use too much alcohol ink the resin cure time will change - and sometimes drastically. The quantity of alcohol ink will determine how light or dark the color will appear and colorfastness can be an issue, but there are special inks designed to deal with these issues. These are considered lower quality than the other types of colorants, but there are some good varieties and everyone has their opinions on which is best. Just remember to shake them vigorously before use. Alcohol inks can have a shelflife, but it's more dependent on how long you leave the caps off. These tend to be more neutrally buoyant unless you get too heavy-handed with the inks.
Pastes are very vibrant colors and they don't have the same colorfast issues that alcohol inks have to deal with. Pastes tend to go a lot farther, meaning a small blob on a toothpick is enough to color 4oz, and using more or less won't necessarily change the color. These are made from dry pastes. Make sure the containers have had time to settle if you've been moving them around because they have a tendency to stick to the lid. Pastes need to be stirred before use (1/day is good). Pastes have a shelf life of about a year before they start to dry out (they start getting chunky before they go dry), but they can be reconditioned. Pastes are made to both float and sink, and they will often be marked as such in various terms (base/top coat, cell, tint, etc).
Dry pastes are vibrant colors with great effects and they last nearly forever. They can be made of natural or synthetic materials. People that make their own colorants usually start making dry pastes. It's not uncommon for people to get a particular shade of dirt/clay, rock, dried vegetable matter, glass, etc and then go from there. Dry pastes are usually heavier and sink, but it does require experimentation to be sure. I've gotten Petri-style results using mica powders on top of clear resin and alcohol inks, but if you use too much it'll sink right through to the bottom of the die. Dry pastes can also be used to dry brush molds or even the top of resin at various stages in its cure (use a silicone brush).
Other things can be used as a colorant, it's all about experimentation. Spraypaint works well, small amounts of oil paint can as well (too much and it'll cure as slow as an oil painting), various calligraphy inks, glitters and crushed glass are also popular, and inserts are getting to be more common (but they need to be coated in resin or lacquer prior to insertion to avoid bubbles - I recommend putting them in small cabochons and then putting the cabochons in the dice, it's a nice control mechanism nothing more). Two things to note... First, if you are selling your dice and you add foodstuff, vegetable matter, scents, makeup, or any other kind of allergen to dice then make sure you list what you put in them for people that have allergies. Second, resin doesn't interact well with water (it'll become slime that won't cure correctly), so acrylic paints are to be used with caution. I advise playing with new materials in small batches before putting them into a mold because some things can destroy your molds and silicone is more expensive than resin.
That's my extra 2-cents.
Gonna be honest Joshua. Odds are high you know more about mold making and casting that 95%+ of dice makers on youtube. The biggest con of the dice making community is that techniques for making dice are any different than any other kind of casting or mold making. If it is a valid technique for a coaster or a miniature, it is probably valid for gaming dice too.
@@JoshuaCairns I read your full posts and am very impressed. Please take a second look at your calculations for depth of pour. There are too many examples of dice moulds functioning with single pours.
@@sp10sn What I was trying to portray was bubble management in pouring, and it looks like I didn't portray it well. There are a lot of ways to pour when you don't have a pressure pot and I definitely have poured in shallow layers for certain effects and at different stages of curing. You can pour all at once, but if you don't manage your bubbles you'll have a repair-heavy mess on your hands and you'll be limited on the type of effects you can portray. Ultimately, you need to be aware of your bubbles and how they are going to release, whether it's through your resin's natural release mechanisms or through other means. Alcohol inks/dyes or small amounts of high concentration isopropyl alcohol can be added to increase the bubble release, but too much can cause cure inhibition (or at best, weakness and or sponginess), and when you de-mold, flash curing as the alcohol gases release - so don't forget to give your resin a chance to breathe for at least 3 minutes before you add your cap/close your mold. You can also add small amounts of alchol while mixing the resin as well - again letting it breathe before adding alcohol-based colorants. Letting your resin de-gas in a wide shallow container for a few minutes can also help release bubbles naturally. Pouring later into your pot life can also help and/or add effects (that's how I get dice to look like old-fashioned ribbon candy, but I'm into the gel state when I pour). Always pour on a guide stick or on the top surface of your mold, and if you pour into the mold, pour into one area to avoid trapping air under the resin (it's the same with silicone). Adding vents into your molds can help dice to release the trapped air, or allow you to add more resin, YMMV (do some homework on mold making - not exclusively from dice makers either). Experiment like crazy and have fun. Let your mistakes become success as you discover new ways to do something. There are people that discovered how to use water-based colorants in resin without problems. For a while, I was intentionally putting too much alcohol into my resin bound for dice molds, and when I would de-mold a void of alcohol gasses and resin would pour out and create a waterfall effect - the void had to be repaired but it gave a very interesting effect that I can't replicate in any other way. Making dice without a pressure pot is rewarding, but it requires more care and additional steps to be successful. I relate dice making without a pressure pot to candy making without cornstarch, it's more than possible but precision is king, and planning the extra steps is vital to avoid making a mess.
There's loads of great tips here, thank you so much! I'm not keen on buying a pot, it's just so much money, so honest advice about helping people who don't want to get a pot is really useful and refreshing!. :( if you do get a side full of pinprick bubbles, but want to save the dice, how would you do it? I've seen patch repairs with uv resin, but I've never managed to smear it all over a whole side of tiny bubbles successfully. 🤣
Because most UV resin has on the thicker side, it's really hard to get it into the super tiny little holes that you can get.
I've had success repairing backholes but it's the teeny tiny ones that are just about impossible. I'll do a little bit of research and testing and see if I can't find something out!
As for pressure pot, I got a cheap 10l vevor pot for £75 (UK) and for around £20 parts to convert it to be used with a floor pump that you use to pump up bike tires, takes under 10 mins to get it too 65psi, the pot is rated at 80psi max, so although still not exactly cheap but definitely the cheapest approach.
@@Stu81please explain how you did that I’m so curious and the price is a massive problem for me too
The reaction being exothermic does not speed up the curing reaction at higher temperatures. It speeds up because of the kinetics and the Arrhenius equation, i.e., almost all chemical reactions proceed more rapidly at higher temperatures (including endothermic reactions). This is because at higher temperatures, more molecules have enough energy to overcome the activation energy "barrier" to reaction. The increased temperature also increases the number of effective collisions between reactants.
This video is amazingly informative! Thank you so much for taking the time and care to simplify the more complex aspects for newcomers
Eagerly awaiting some molds from your shop and prepping to start my own dice business, and the algorithm let me know about your channel. I've had a pot for about 6 months but it's great to see so many tips from a pro!
This is an excellent video! So many helpful tips and suggestions. I’ll be sure to watch again before I start my own dice set.
Thank you so much! I’m just starting out with resin but I want to learn as much as I can and this explained a lot not just for dice but for working with resin overall. I really appreciate your approach 😊🙏
Super helpful video. My first Druid Dice molds arrived today (thank you!!!) and figured I'd watch this before I did my first set pours. I've only played with a single D20 mold so far, so these two slab molds and the chonk are going to be something totally different.
Thank you so much for this video. I can’t really afford a pressure pot now and it honestly started getting to the point where I thought I was just not any good at making dice. Now knowing that those bubbles are just the nature of the beast until I can get a pressure pot, makes me feel so much better.
I used the stirring and pouring technique you showed here and the dice I pulled are some of the best I’ve done. I clicked on the video because I already own a mold from Druid Dice, but I subscribed for the great advice.
Great video. Never new about adding a lid so i guess i may srsrt making more of my own molds going forwards x
This was the most informative video I’ve seen so far in my start of dice making! Thank you!!!
I'm so happy I started with a pressure pot, but I knew I was going to enjoy dice making going in
I plan on selling dice eventually, and I don't have a pressure pot or anything yet, so I might start by trying a few sets of dice to get what i want and for practice first, then look into getting the pot once I feel I am ready. These tips seem great and I will try them out once my materials come in a few days.
I just wanted to say THANK YOU! I still do not have a pressure pot yet, however, with tips from this video I've been able to cast dice at least 10-20% better than I had previously. I just started using epoxy a little while back and my bf is very into dnd. Now I can make him and his friends nice dice ^_^
That's awesome!
@@DruidDice if I can’t afford the pressure pot listed, what would be one under 200 that you would suggest?
I'm new to resin. Based on another video saying that you don't need a pressure pot, I turned a wooden bowl, then routed out a design that could be filled with resin, then turned the rest of the way, to reveal the colored resin. It couldn't have come out worse! It was like a bubble farm! absolutely horrible! So, the next time (coming up soon) I am going to use a pressure pot. Thankfully, I found one at a garage sale for $5.00! It's an old Binks, but that is a reputable name in pressure pots (they're ridiculously expensive new, now!). It's a 2.5 gal. So, I'm getting going for the about price of a new seal and the fittings. We'll see, but I'm convinced that its going to be way better using a pressure pot. So, scour those yard sales and garage sales folks!
My take: No you don't NEED a pressure pot, if you're okay with bubbles in your project. For me: YES! I want a pressure pot! I hate bubbles in my resin!
You are such a great teacher! Thank you 😃
This was a fantastic video!!! Thank you so much!
This was a super informative video! Thank you!
Thank you for this video. I've thought about investing in some molds to make personal dice for my friends and myself. I liked seeing the comparison dice.
I'm going to be redoing this test using a bunch of different resins to see which one works best for non-pressure casting! Should be ready in a couple weeks
Thanks so much for this video, it is super informative.
Another way to reduce bubbles during mixing is to use a plastic or silicone stir stick. Because wood is porous it tends to introduce air bubbles into your resin.
That's a great point. Thanks for sharing!
I’m realizing form this video that working with silicon models and epoxy has some similarities with working with tempered chocolate and hard candy.
Thanks for the vid this is definitely the info I needed to hear especially the cost break down
This was so helpful! Thank you!! 😀
Me in Australia right now trying to start up and so far an easy $3k. Just bought closest thing to a pressure pot we can get here that needs to be converted and can't unscrew any of it. My hands are red raw. Fml. And Australia's cost of everything. And all the unavailabilities. Postage from outside Australia. Soooo much money spent. 😭
Buuut. Loving this info. I bought the pot because I just can't seem to get bubble free casts. The cattletrop tips barely register. It's such a cirlce
Great info... and your shirt is awesome. You actually stopped me from doing resin until I do more research. If I had purchased the cheap molds and epoxy... I already have mica and alcohol inks... I would have been disappointed with the results. I KNOW what dice are supposed to look like. Air bubbles could effect the rolls. I will think about it. Maybe if I can get a used pressure pot and molds. I have time. I can make soap and do paper crafts and home brewing...it isn't a craft emergency. 😂
Wooden stir sticks add bubbles, they make metal epoxy stir sticks that work great. Nice video lots of good info
Wonderful tips thanks a lot 😍❤️
I gotta be honest, I subscribed when you put on the welding helmet 😂
I had no idea dice were such a popular resin application.
As a person who has only been doing resin for a year, I'd have to say: yes, you need a pressure pot, unless you want to have to look at all your completed projects and realize that they could have turned out better.
Half of the fun of resin is its transparency, and even if you torch \ pre-heat \ toothpick the CRAP out of your pieces, you're gonna have at least 5-10 bubbles per piece that form while curing, that you're going to have to frown over eternally. With my $60 a month resin habit, it makes so much more sense to jones for two months in order to convert a paint pot into a pressure pot. That's my New Year's resolution: i have to make a pressure pot, and I'm waiting in the mail for the fittings, and will buy the pot in January.
It's a must-have if you don't want to feel like you've wasted your time \ money \ creativity.
Very Helpful!
I just thought of a brilliant way to make a green, 'acid pitted' die set.
Probably want a fine tipped ink pen for the numbers though.
really great vid, thanks
This is such a helpful video. I’m looking to try making dice and have never worked with resin before. Using your squish mold, what resin would you recommend for those not using a pressure pot? Currently looking at Art N Glow or Art Resin, but you mentioned finding one that is thinner to reduce bubbles. Thank you!
Thanks for the video and information! I have a question though, do the bubbles make the dice weighted by any chance?
Awesome video! Only thing that confused me is how the 2 coloured resins didn't mix together into a homogenous blend since they are prepared at the same time.. which was what happened to me the last time I tried.
How do you only have 500 subs?! Love your content, found you today and am already talking about your channel to friends! I love more resin dice channels are popping up and yours are stunning!
Thank you for your kind words ♥️
This was a very informative video! It's great to see the difference between pressure pot and no pressure pot, and if you don't have one the different techniques you can use to lower the amount of bubbles you will have. I had thought maybe I was doing my dice wrong with the bubbles I was getting since I wasn't using a pressure pot, but its good to see that its just the nature of it. I'm glad I ordered my pressure pot and I'm getting it today. Also, I didn't know about the pouring down the sides technique to reduce bubbles! I'll DEFINITELY have to try it as well as the pouring down the popsicle stick into the mold (which I bought from your etsy store. 10/10 will be buying more of them)!
I have to say though, my favorite part of this video was at around 17:44: "And now... the fun part." *proceeds to put on eye protection, welding mask, and then... pulls up lighter. all the while high intense music is playing in the background.* I don't think I've laughed that hard in FOREVER. Thank you for that!
Happy to help. I can't help but be silly, especially with such a big information dump. Got to break it up with a little bit of levity every now and again ❤️ thanks for the order and can't wait to see what you create!
You got me since the Tim Hortons joke 😂😂😂 great job
vers very very interesting vidéo, thanks you so much👍👍👍👍
Great video. Any advice for putting objects in the dice?
Have you tried using a Syringe at a tilted angle to reduce bubbles or would that increase them. In one video a person used a ziplock bag like a pastry bag to add colored resin.
Great info and tips! I especially liked the advice at 22:39, to get longer working time resin - "90 minutes if not an hour and a half." 😆 The Tim Horton slip was good, too. I'm jealous that you have those awesome doughnuts up there.
Thank you so much! Every other "beginner" video I've watched felt like I was picking up in the middle of a lesson. This video is explained so informatively yet simply.
I wish you showed us the pressure pot part of it!
I love your shirt
Thank you!
I am very new to dice making and I cant afford a pressure pot yet, so I wanted to ask if it is possible to make dice with UV-Resin instead of Epoxy-Resin. Your tips are very helpful thank you very much for making this video.
Can you bring out the numbers with micro powder?
This had been really helpful. I've been using total boat resin.
Maybe a dumb question but I work with concrete and we vibrate it to get rid of the bubbles (concrete is very similar to resin when you think about it).
Wouldn't it work with resin ?
Would you say ks resin is better than total boat?
Does using a pressure pot change the design of the dice? I saw an upclose time lapse of anpressure pot, and it looked like the epoxy was moving inside of the mold. Ive always been scared to try it 😢
I loves this video such great info! I do have a question what kind of pressure pot do you have or what would you recommend for someone just starting?
On a budget and don't mind tinkering, go for harbor freight. You can get a 2 and 1/2 gallon and modify it for under 150 bucks. Don't want to mess with the crap quality, hit and miss reliability? Go for a California Air tools pot. You can usually find them for around $300. Price is more but the quality and reliability is worth it. "Buy once cry once."
Unfortunately, California Air Tools are not available in Belgium. What brand of Pressure Pot do you recommend that's available in Europe?
Thank you!! Your video has been so far the most thorough and helpful that I’ve found on CZcams.
Cool shirt
I really need help on this I've been trying to find anyone to make fur ashes and gitd pigment powder dnd dice for my memorial dice for my dog.. he passed last year.. I have had zero luck.
My resin is the best. It literally is odor less and doesn't need a mask at all. It says that it's a mild skin irritant but I've gotten it on me so many times and haven't felt anything. I even got I on Amazon for like 20 bucks and it's really good and clear.
what is it called?
@@anonymousonyx7755 got it from Amazon and it's like a blue and purpley red bottle. Lemme get it for ya
@@anonymousonyx7755 Teexpert Epoxy Resin Crystal Clear: 64OZ Epoxy Resin kit Fast Curing Heat Resistant for Casting Coating Art DIY Craft Jewelry Wood Table Top Flower Preservation- 2 Part(32OZ Resin and 32OZ Hardener)
@@anonymousonyx7755 Amazon and their long names.
at 22:44 you recommend at least 90 minutes if not an hour and a half. i guess this was you being distracted because i'm pretty sure all over north america that's the same thing.
Lol your right 😂
Wouldn't it be a good idea to warm up the molds as well? Maybe keep them on a warm slab of stone.... kind of like a pizza stone or something. Did you try this and did it make a difference?
I'm not tried that but that's an interesting idea to help keep the resin thing in debubble while in mold.
I am curious, your molds seemed to be tearing when you were flexing them to demold the dice, are they single use? If not how many times, in general can they be used. I have not yet tried doing something like this so I have no idea.
Small tears are not a issue as the silicone self seals back. You should be getting 10+ pulls before any tears, then you get 30~ before number tear out. The heat from the resin curing degrades the silicone over time. The molds I use are all pretty old tbh!
I already know the time my ks resin gets thicc so i can do certain types of dice, also when to add thiccer glitters. Will heating the resin beforehand (i dont) change those times?
Yes you shave off a bit of pot life due to jump starting the curing process
@@DruidDice Guess im gonna have to watch this video a few more times with glitter as well as petri when i do it again and again
I read that materials which cure soft, like silicon, work better in a vacuum pot, while materials that cure hard, like resin, work better in a pressure pot. Any thoughts on using a vacuum for silicon molds?
That's what I do. I only use the vacuum chamber for silicone, but then I also put it in the pressure pot as an extra precaution. Resin I only do in the pressure pot and skip the vacuum chamber.
If we're going to start out without the pressure pot. Would we be able to secure it with clamps in addition to the heavy weight object?
You want to avoid clamps for any excessively heavy object because it can deform the silicone and cause your dice to become misshapen. You could also cause unnecessary squeeze out of the resin leaving with voids.
I see that the dice molds are sold on Etsy, about how long does each mold last? how many sets of dice should I be able to produce from each mold?
On average, you should expect to get about 20 to 30 pulls before major rips and tears, I know a few people who have gone 60 plus! The stress of the heating and cooling of the resin during the curing process, the molds start to deteriorate. So at the very least, after about 30 poles, depending on how hot your resin gets, you'll start to notice they're not quite as shiny before any post cleanup.
Can you use any normal pressure cooker or do you have to get these crazy industrial ones I see people using
A pressure cooker won't work because it uses water +heat to create pressure and it also only does maybe 10 to 20 psi. That's why you see people using the industrial ones as you mentioned.
Harbor freight has a $99 one that you can retrofit for 10 or 15 dollars it'll work but after about 6 months to a year of use at most the aluminum parts on it start to fail and so does the gasket you don't have to end up buying another one anyway.
You could also DIY one using PVC but if you've never used it before and they're not familiar with that I wouldn't recommend it. Better to get one that's made and tested then mess around with creating high velocity shrapnel.
Hi there I'm looking into getting a pressure pot and was wondering if 45 psi would be enough to get rid of all bubbles? Including the surface ones I seem to have some issues with. I'm looking at the Shop Fox W1799 paint tank has a max pressure of 45 psi . Thanks
Totally would be you don't need to really go any higher than 30 PSI for most resin casting
Great video!! Thank you. I appreciate the useful information
Total newbie question, do the air bubbles affect the roll of the dice?
Not at all in any statistically meaningful way!
I bought a pressure pot for making my dices so i have a question for which one i cant really find an answer. How long do u keep ur molds in pressure pod? I have resin thats needs 24h to get ready.
You want to keep it in there for the full demold time. Typically resin is good to de-mold in 24 hours like you said and they need another day or two to fully harden
Pressure pot, maybe not, but some other pot, probably
at 18:08 the resin on the round lid has a lil face!
thanks for the indepth guide i was getting so sick of the short and unhelpful tips on tiktok
18:30 the man on the lid, whom is he
Lolol The patron saint of dice casting of course!
22:38 Hmmm, aren't 90 minutes, and 1.5 hours the same?
Hold up, what disc is that?
It's a jomez pro stamp Follow flight DD felon
@@DruidDice Thank you. I love me some DD plastic and the boys at Jomez are the best.
"a work time of at least 90 minutes if not an hour and a half" umm, 90 minutes is an hour and a half.
I really, really need to know where to get that shirt from!
There is no X in especially.
Yay typos 😄
I use your molds and one THOUSAND percent I'd recommend a pressure pot! I went from having just a few usable dice to EVERYTHING coming out well!
90 minutes is an hour and a half though lol
You know when I see a dice maker on youtube posting stuff I am less than impressed almost always. The video content a lot of time is pointlessly complex or poorly presented, and often gives just plain bad information. To be honest I am not blown away by this video either, other than that you call out the harbor freight pressure pot for what it is... a waste of money. Very rare to see a youtuber who deals in casting (dice or otherwise) be honest about cheap tools.
Mostly I am impressed by your webstore. You don't post ridiculously photoshopped pics of your dice. Your prices for your dice are actually kind of low for custom hand made dice. Maybe even too low. You even list the actual defects in the side bar with the dice you sell, that's rare and appreciated. I think your mold prices are a little high but whatever. You are running a much more honest business than most hand made dice makers, that's worth a lot of respect in my opinion.
tim hortons kek
Not sure if it's been mentioned, but Micah is very unethically sourced. If you can please use an artificial Micah instead.
@@simulatedfish1995 That's awesome! I also lowkey respect the self insert.
@@MySqueezingArm whoops not sure how that happened but here we are 😂
@@DruidDice hahahaha. Great video btw. Thanks for putting it out there.
Yes you do need a pressure pot if you don't want bubbles
First
I paused at 0:05. What the hell is that point where the 8,15,2,4 and 9 faces meet??? That is unacceptable.
Thanks for the great feedback 👍
@@DruidDice Ok I was being mean but now I feel bad. It's just that I try to keep perfect corners even after dice processing. When selling to people it's important to give them the quality you would like to receive. It just makes me sad that people priorities time saving and profit over the quality they offer.
I only use are b grade and really old molds for my personal casting. I promise this doesn't reflect our quality. But it's a fair point that I should showcase our best. There wasn't a focus on the dice set as much as the process for this video so I didn't pay it much attention.