Stihl Chainsaw Bog Down and Fix
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- čas přidán 1. 05. 2020
- Does your Stihl or other brand chainsaw bog down and refuse to run or throttle up? Mine too. Let me show you some handy tips on things to check and how it fixed mine. In 4K
Carburetor Ignition Coil Kit For Stihl 017 018 MS170 MS180 Chainsaw Parts on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-I... - Jak na to + styl
Excellent troubleshooting presentation. Really liked the pace and tone of the video. The cleaning procedures and tips were shown and demonstrated very well.
Thank you ogoofyone. It actually means more to me that good folks like you notice the little things than the big stuff. Call me irresponsible. lol
I use a propane torch to burn the spark arrestor screen. Get it cherry red, use a steel brush and it becomes perfectly clean. Also, the factory setting on the one screw the MS 170 & MS 180 carburetors have is 2 full turns out from fully seated. To fully seat the screw, you must go counterclockwise. It is reverse threaded. Clockwise two full turns to get it to idle at factory settings without halting.
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Great video, thank you!
Thanks! I have some things to check.
My Stihl MS181C worked fine all winter. I fired it up today to cut some stumps, no more than a couple months after last use. It started and idled just fine, although until it had run a couple minutes, it would bog if I tried to give it any gas (just holding the saw). It pretty much refused to cut horizontally, either way I held it, bogging down almost immediately (if not sooner). Yet I bucked some test logs (cutting vertically), and it worked like a charm. Still would bog trying to cut horizontally. Fortunately, I don't have any trees to fell at the moment.
What gives?
More chainsaw success. From now on I'll check my screens. This year I put in the tune up kit with plug, air filter. gas filter, and primer bulb. What a difference. Watch out CZcamsrs a new genre of repair video is coming!
Thanks again for the kind words Tom. Sounds like the tune up kit worked wonders for you. Wish my saw had a primer bulb for sure. Alas, more reason to keep it in shape so I don’t have to pull start as much.
Very good, thank you sir.
Thanks for viewing
Awesome advises,thank you in advance ,great chanell
Thank you for viewing and leaving a comment.
Great vid. Thanks
Thanks for the comment.
When you have the muffler off, check the cylinder opening for carbon buildup. If you do any scraping or digging, run the piston down beneath the port first!! I've seen the ports 1/2 closed up by carbon buildup.
Good job .
The soft method is presented.
Other cleaning mode (hard):
The screen can be cleaned (if it is without catalyst) - it is burned in the flame and cleaned with a wire brush. After cleaning it is like new.
The exhaust drum (if it is without catalyst) burns in the fire after which it is mechanically cleaned.
The drum heats up more than the cylinder; the cylinder is made of aluminum, has cooling fins and benefits from forced cooling. The drum is made of steel, it has no cooling fins, it does not benefit from forced cooling. The temperature in the combustion chamber (cylinder head) reaches 1100F and the outside of the cylinder reaches 350F in summer.
So the thread lock is not used.
I like the idea of taking a flame to the screen first.
@@PilotViewProductions Flame = fast mode
Excellent video, thanks. My chainsaw is having the same issues but I found it didn’t have a muffler screen. It needs the idle screw resetting to default too. Fngers crossed the safe method works this weekend as it’s getting cold in the uk.
Good luck with the adjustments. Getting cold here too mrbuzz uk. Thanks for viewing and commenting. Hope you can check out my other videos. Dean
Did u fix problem whit putting a muffer screen or it was something else
Hi there, not sure the screen or lack of it is my issue. I reset the idle screw and it sings along great but when cutting it bogs down after a bit. Not looked at it in a while but need to get it up and running again. Having to fix an oil leak first but think I’ll have to undo the nut to release the tank as fitting the replacement pipe is proving tricky and unsuccessful. Sorry I have been no help.
@@mrbuzzuk9470 did u fix ur problem i dodnt fix yet but i will try put new carburator and we will see then.
Hello, really sorry it took me 11 months to reply!! Not sure how I missed this. Sadly I am still having same issues. I stripped it completely which was fun job in itself, replaced fuel and oil pipes and cleaned it. Starting and Idle were easy and sounding good and began to thought issues were over....whoops! As soon as I cut something sizeable the bogging started again! I hve to admit at that point I took a break from it and really have not tackled it properly since because my kind neighbour has been lending me his. Hope you fixed yours.@@SonGoku-fj1uh
what liqued did you use for muffler
Liquid? The cleaner or the thread lock?
Cleaner
Duje Amizic started out spraying with Gunk. Let soak for an hour. Then soak in Dawn for an hour, then steel brush, Brillo and steel wool.
Perfectionist my arse 🧐🤔😁😂
As opposed to?
Nice, but never start your chainsaw with the chainbrake off, especially when you are wearing jeans and suede shoes lol.
Or always.
Nice video Sir but if you are that anal then please clean your saw ha ha.
i have fixed many a used saw/2stroke with clogged 'spark arrester'(the proper term). owners rarely understand fuel ratios or they buy some cheap ass mix oil that clogges these arresters. i know a cheap basterd that uses motoroil as his mix.