Rent that floor sander again to strip that paint off, use watered down muriatic acid to really etch that concrete. Rinse it very well and then put down 2 part epoxy. Floor tiles might be a good alternative if you don't want to do all that work.
agree 100 %. If you stip the concrete with the muriatic acid it will etch the concrete and make it able to absorb a stain color. Probably will never really hold paint on the base layer but if you can get an amazing stain finish and then clear it and leave it alone. It won't look shop grey but i think it will be far better for hiding tire tracks and other similar stains.
If there is oil and other automotive fluids soaked into the floor that still wont work. Been there done that. We had to end up putting down a skim coat after having the floor ground down by 3/4 of an inch.
Do all that and Use baking soda to neutralize the muriatic acid. Per rust oleum tech line when I did mine. And than bite the bucket buy a shit load of that rock solid and be done. Make sure temps are right and humidity is right. Or just pay company to come out and do an industrial epoxy on it.
Next time, go to your local paint store like Sherwin-Williams, they could have got you what you needed in 1 stop. They are pretty good at figuring out how much you need the first time
I worked in the commercial paint industry. Now retired. Much of what I did was to problem solve industrial and commercial paint problems. Concrete floors are one of the most difficult surfaces due to concrete processes and chemistry. Three problems are common. You may have any of these going on. 1.) ground water vaporizing up through the concrete 2.) highly alkaline concrete 3.) Hardened concrete. Number one and two can be related. If there is hydrostatic pressure (water vapor) it can cause poor adhesion of paint. It can also bring alkaline salts up the concrete surface causing it to be highly alkaline or even corroded and weak. Paint will not withstand alkaline. It will peel easily especially if it is wetted with water. Before attempting to paint bare concrete, you should always do a moisture test. Lay a square yard of plastic sheet down and tape it with waterproof tape all round. Leave it for 24 hours, and if after 24 hrs exactly, there are water droplets on the underside, then there is too mush hydrostatic pressure to successfully paint. If it passes that test, then I would normally do an alkali test with a acid alkali test strip. If it is alkaline, then etch the concrete (etch regardless). Thing is, the proper etching method is to use one part muriatic acid added to three parts water (in that order). Flood the surface, let it fizz and react, then rinse and mop, rinse and mop, then let dry and retest for alkali. If it is still 'hot' then you must etch again. The etching is to chemically change the surface, not just to key it up. By the way, when painting always ensure the floor temperature is sufficient to cure the product. Number three is a situation where you cannot paint unless you sandblast the concrete. Hardened concrete (a special process when laying the floor) cannot be painted unless sandblasted. Etching will not be successful on hardened concrete. I'll also say that I would not trust the Behr garage floor finish. One part epoxy is not true epoxy, since it is not catalyzed. It is a regular floor paint with some epoxy resin tossed in for labelling/marketing purposes. Sorry to flood you with info here, but just in case you are faced down the line with redoing the floor, perhaps you can save this for future reference.
I'll add one more point. Do not use any form of concrete to fill voids, as you cannot paint fresh concrete until it is cured at the very least, 3 weeks, and then it must be thoroughly acid treated.
You need a grinder and grind that floor clean. And make sure there's no moisture in the concrete, not raining outside or has rained in a while, and run a dryer over the concrete, kinda like you see on race tracks with the truck dying the track.
I heard to put down a epoxy based primer to seal the concrete before you put the main stuff down. This prevent moisture from coming up through the concrete.
Chase, if you want to paint to stick you're going to have to strip the floor again and grind it down then put down a skim coat of self leveling concrete. We had the same issue on a floor at one of the fire houses I worked at. It was an old bay that had oil soaked into it for years. Had a pro installer come in to do the floor with spray on epoxy. Within a month the epoxy was bubbling up and pealing. Had to have the company come back and ground down 3/4 of an inch and put down a thick skim coat and redo the epoxy. After that it stuck and had no more issues.
Don’t use rollers!! Use a squeegee. Makes the job faster, and you will have epoxy left over. I just did a two car garage. It took me a little bit over an hour and a half.
I used Behr concrete and garage on my new workshop floor and the paint chip anyway. Maybe your floor is soaked with oil but Behr paint is kinda suck too. Note that my concrete floor was brand new.
I was going to buy Rustoleum garage epoxy for my basement floor; mostly to keep any residual radon out. I have 1110 sq/ft to work with, so it's nice to see how this product works for others so I can better guestimate what to expect.
Vinyl locking flooring man!! just cover it and that stuff looks great. If that material would suit your needs that is. congrats btw it looks like its gonna be epic!
Met a guy that did commercial epoxy coatings for a living. Said rust oleum is horrible and recommended to stay away from it. My family used UCoat-It on two garage floors and actually turned out great. Better in my opinion and has lasted up to 5 years no issues. Easy prep too.
If the paint keeps coming up I would just polish the concrete so what you would do is rent that buffer again grind it flat then get the wheels in progressive finishes and just get some floor polishing compound for concrete and make it shine like marble...
I have a newly poured garage floor that has cured for 3 months, never driven on, that is 600 sq ft. I started with 1 single and 1 2 car kits. This did not cover 1/2 of the floor. I then had to purchase 2 additional 2 car kits from Home Depot. The floor is spotty and does not look a $1,100 dollar floor should look like. According to the product specs the 7 bags should have covered from 1,400 to 1,750 sq ft. Don't waste your time and money on this product.
m Maybe you can use the square plates that goes together like legos but they are flat I've see the checkerboard like the finish line in garages maybe that will work for you let me know what you think
From looking at the way you are dressed it must be cold and this stuff doesn’t work well on a floor with moisture or cold temperatures. Mine worked well.
Any paint that says it has primer in it only has enough to say it’s there. That’s great for going over existing paint but with your stripped floor, you need to use an ultra bonding primer like that Valspar stain blocking bonding primer at Lowe’s.
Aircraft paint stripper. Used this on MC rims before powercoating. Work great needed some fine tuning but it should have been a breeze on that concrete.
i would have just rented a paint eater for the rent all... had to do the same thing to my garage. it was like a concrete sander or something IDK worked like a champ!
OC: Intro: Hello fam welcome to the ChaseOnTwoWheels Money Pit series. Were we spend tons of money to get our WBRG up and running. Pray you guys don't run into anymore issues and have everything up and running perfectly.
Doesn't matter what top coat product you use if your prep isn't right. After sanding should have applied muratic acid then pressure washed . Mopping is the worst thing you could do ,especially with degreaser, all you are doing is spreading old oil around,ugh. Acid opens pores then you pressure wash to remove all debris(oil,dirt,dust etc).
You could have done this all in one day. You could have hired a dustlessblasting company to blast the old floor away and etch the concrete. They could been done with that in an hour or two and leave you to painting Food for thought but I liked the video!
Did you consider putting down a primer? I know they say you don't need to, but I'm wondering if it would extend the square footage of the kit? Could you etch and primer a clean floor before starting the epoxy?
I know it's expensive but you should definitely look into swiss tracks or race deck. YOU NEED IT and you can bring it with you if you ever upgrade your shop in the future. Vs losing money and time with the epoxy floors
OC. Yeah so I would... I uh... Wait. There's no outro crew segment. Fade to black and white. Cue sad music. So when you think you're fine but your really not fine...........
I'm calling BS! I've coated three floors with this and had NO problems like you created. You failed to follow basic procedures in applying this coating.
Surface prep is the most important with this product. I used this on a two and a half car garage but instead of using the acid that came with it, I opted to grind the concrete for maximum adhesion. On a large size shop like yours, you should've rented a diamond floor sander at home depot. And I filled the cracks with the rustoleum epoxy patch that they sell. Outcome is flawless and never peels off after over a year. Do not use a degreaser as this will seep more into the concrete. The diamond sander will remove everything from paint to grease as it cuts down about an eight of an inch each pass. Acid etching is what makes it peel because it's hard to wash off the acid after.
How did you grind your floors? Did you rent the diamond sander as well? I was going to do that and then just use an angle grinder around edges. I'm getting ready to do my 2.5 car garge, and I've watched a lot of videos. You are absolutely correct. Prep is everything when it comes to epoxying the floor. Any advice is appreciated!
@@royals1833 I didn't rent a surface grinder. I just used a 4 1/2 grinder and bought a 4 1/2 inch Ridgid diamond cup wheel. If you just lay the grinder and just use its weight down, it's a breeze. BUT do it in 4 x 4 sections at a time, and remove the dust as you move along. Be ready to use a shop vac, a box fan and a leaf blower
@@royals1833 remember, the objective is just to scratch the surface, not to remove a lot of concrete. You will see it as the concrete changes color and surface. Don't dig in too deep. N95 3M dust mask is a must and goggles. Let me know the progress!
@Tony R cool. How long did it take you to completely do your 2.5 car garage? Like from start to finsh, amd how many packs (boxes) of the rustoleum did you have to put down? Ive seen that it takes alot more to do it right than the box says will cover. Thanks man, i appreciate it.
@Tony R will do. So you didn't use the acid that came with it? I watched one video (I can't remember if it was the acid or not), but whatever he used made the pores of the concrete open up more so the product would stick better. Did you use the acid or skip over that?
swis track would not be great if you have office chairs and stuff to roll around like the editors have I would think... I could be wrong but also I think he tried a version of that in his previous house garage and I'm pretty sure Chase can tell you all the reasons he opted to not use it again.
With the move, and how long this video took, i hope your time off you actually had time off. Feels like you've been a busy boy since coming back. Edit: Seems this was all recorded before "radio silence". Glad to hear.
My guy. Stop using that crap and check out U-Coat It! Use the polyurethane top coat and the siht is TOUGH AS NAILS! Love the content. Keep on keepin on!
Very misleading title. This is a perfect example of how to not follow directions. Etching after grinding just doesn't make sense. Using paint removers before applying coatings is just a terrible way to cause failures.
Hindsight is always 20/20, but you should have just done it right the first time and paid a flooring company to come in and put an epoxy coating on there for you. Home Depot also sells kits for you to do it yourself. It's super easy.
Do the team have other jobs or is the channel all of their full time jobs now? Good for them if they are able to make a living out of the content. They deserve it.
My old job we used this machine I think called a shot blaster, resurfacing concrete floors and that finally helped keep the paint and epoxy down and smooth.
Coverage depends on technique. Yours must be very poor. Like your juvenile vocabulary. Many people, myself included, have gotten excellent results and coverage with Rustoleum Rock Solid. No problems. Follow the instructions... if you can read them.
As someone who has stripped and coated floors for over a decade, I could have given you so many tips and pointers of how to make that easier. 😂 Edit: Ah, you did finally go rent a machine. That would have been my first step 👍
Wait... so you moved all of your gear into the shop just to have to move it again so you could do the floors and electrical?? The guys that did DoItWithDans floors looked like they did awesome work.
Rent that floor sander again to strip that paint off, use watered down muriatic acid to really etch that concrete. Rinse it very well and then put down 2 part epoxy. Floor tiles might be a good alternative if you don't want to do all that work.
agree 100 %. If you stip the concrete with the muriatic acid it will etch the concrete and make it able to absorb a stain color. Probably will never really hold paint on the base layer but if you can get an amazing stain finish and then clear it and leave it alone. It won't look shop grey but i think it will be far better for hiding tire tracks and other similar stains.
Yes, 10% HCl does wonders on concrete.
If there is oil and other automotive fluids soaked into the floor that still wont work. Been there done that. We had to end up putting down a skim coat after having the floor ground down by 3/4 of an inch.
Do all that and Use baking soda to neutralize the muriatic acid. Per rust oleum tech line when I did mine. And than bite the bucket buy a shit load of that rock solid and be done. Make sure temps are right and humidity is right.
Or just pay company to come out and do an industrial epoxy on it.
With all the ads in this video, that should be enough for the next 15 boxes of rock solid! lol 😂
Next time, go to your local paint store like Sherwin-Williams, they could have got you what you needed in 1 stop. They are pretty good at figuring out how much you need the first time
I just can't stop being happy for y'all having this shop space now.
I worked in the commercial paint industry. Now retired. Much of what I did was to problem solve industrial and commercial paint problems. Concrete floors are one of the most difficult surfaces due to concrete processes and chemistry. Three problems are common. You may have any of these going on.
1.) ground water vaporizing up through the concrete
2.) highly alkaline concrete
3.) Hardened concrete.
Number one and two can be related. If there is hydrostatic pressure (water vapor) it can cause poor adhesion of paint. It can also bring alkaline salts up the concrete surface causing it to be highly alkaline or even corroded and weak. Paint will not withstand alkaline. It will peel easily especially if it is wetted with water. Before attempting to paint bare concrete, you should always do a moisture test. Lay a square yard of plastic sheet down and tape it with waterproof tape all round. Leave it for 24 hours, and if after 24 hrs exactly, there are water droplets on the underside, then there is too mush hydrostatic pressure to successfully paint.
If it passes that test, then I would normally do an alkali test with a acid alkali test strip. If it is alkaline, then etch the concrete (etch regardless). Thing is, the proper etching method is to use one part muriatic acid added to three parts water (in that order). Flood the surface, let it fizz and react, then rinse and mop, rinse and mop, then let dry and retest for alkali. If it is still 'hot' then you must etch again. The etching is to chemically change the surface, not just to key it up. By the way, when painting always ensure the floor temperature is sufficient to cure the product.
Number three is a situation where you cannot paint unless you sandblast the concrete. Hardened concrete (a special process when laying the floor) cannot be painted unless sandblasted. Etching will not be successful on hardened concrete. I'll also say that I would not trust the Behr garage floor finish. One part epoxy is not true epoxy, since it is not catalyzed. It is a regular floor paint with some epoxy resin tossed in for labelling/marketing purposes. Sorry to flood you with info here, but just in case you are faced down the line with redoing the floor, perhaps you can save this for future reference.
I'll add one more point. Do not use any form of concrete to fill voids, as you cannot paint fresh concrete until it is cured at the very least, 3 weeks, and then it must be thoroughly acid treated.
You need a grinder and grind that floor clean. And make sure there's no moisture in the concrete, not raining outside or has rained in a while, and run a dryer over the concrete, kinda like you see on race tracks with the truck dying the track.
Those plasic tiles from your old garage would look slick.
Lets bring this channel back where it belongs boys, like every video!!!
Let’s GO!
Say no more. Liked the video
I heard to put down a epoxy based primer to seal the concrete before you put the main stuff down. This prevent moisture from coming up through the concrete.
We did ours and it came out great!
the 500 sqf is for already coated floors, bare floors only cover about 200-250 sqf a box.
I’m sure it looks amazing. You guys are going to be able to get so much more work done in a bigger shop.
strip the crappy paint off and use self leveling concrete, then epoxy. Buy once Cry once
Chase, if you want to paint to stick you're going to have to strip the floor again and grind it down then put down a skim coat of self leveling concrete. We had the same issue on a floor at one of the fire houses I worked at. It was an old bay that had oil soaked into it for years. Had a pro installer come in to do the floor with spray on epoxy. Within a month the epoxy was bubbling up and pealing. Had to have the company come back and ground down 3/4 of an inch and put down a thick skim coat and redo the epoxy. After that it stuck and had no more issues.
Don’t use rollers!! Use a squeegee. Makes the job faster, and you will have epoxy left over. I just did a two car garage. It took me a little bit over an hour and a half.
I definitely used 3 (2.5-car garage) kits on my 2-car garage and it came out AMAZING!!!
I hit THEM up and they hooked me up. Prepping the MOTO PILOT garage as we speak. So much work but gonna be worth the pain.
I've done it once and learned my lesson, the paint is not the issue (well wasn't my issue) and I used
It may have been cheaper to hire out for it....
I used Behr concrete and garage on my new workshop floor and the paint chip anyway. Maybe your floor is soaked with oil but Behr paint is kinda suck too. Note that my concrete floor was brand new.
They heard that those boxes have a large amount of water in them. It evaporates and leave it thin after applied to the floor.
yeah. I used that stuff on my garage floor about 10 years ago. didnt work well at all.
Maybe there's some kind of industrial etch primer that would have solved your problems?
Should just get a mat fitted, like those puzzle bits that fit together, or just fork out and buy some laminated flooring.
I was going to buy Rustoleum garage epoxy for my basement floor; mostly to keep any residual radon out. I have 1110 sq/ft to work with, so it's nice to see how this product works for others so I can better guestimate what to expect.
Perfect timing uploading this video. Just finished watching you cry over the electrical. 😂
Vinyl locking flooring man!! just cover it and that stuff looks great. If that material would suit your needs that is.
congrats btw it looks like its gonna be epic!
So how many square feet did the rust oleum cover????
Definitely need twice the amount shown on the box, my garage didn't came out good cause I had to stretch at the end to finish.
Met a guy that did commercial epoxy coatings for a living. Said rust oleum is horrible and recommended to stay away from it. My family used UCoat-It on two garage floors and actually turned out great. Better in my opinion and has lasted up to 5 years no issues. Easy prep too.
I'm used to watching Brian wrench but I like watching him vacuum the floor too
And this video proves the point of hiring a professional
chase, why didnt you do all the work in the shop first before moving everything into it. now you had to move and cover everything first
If the paint keeps coming up I would just polish the concrete so what you would do is rent that buffer again grind it flat then get the wheels in progressive finishes and just get some floor polishing compound for concrete and make it shine like marble...
I have a newly poured garage floor that has cured for 3 months, never driven on, that is 600 sq ft. I started with 1 single and 1 2 car kits. This did not cover 1/2 of the floor. I then had to purchase 2 additional 2 car kits from Home Depot. The floor is spotty and does not look a $1,100 dollar floor should look like. According to the product specs the 7 bags should have covered from 1,400 to 1,750 sq ft. Don't waste your time and money on this product.
m
Maybe you can use the square plates that goes together like legos but they are flat I've see the checkerboard like the finish line in garages maybe that will work for you let me know what you think
Behr paint sucks. But regardless of brand, paint may dry in a few hours, but it can take days or even weeks for it to cure.
From looking at the way you are dressed it must be cold and this stuff doesn’t work well on a floor with moisture or cold temperatures. Mine worked well.
I mean what color rustoleum I can't find that bright white anywhere and how did it hold up
Why did you not fix the walls and floor up before you moved in ?
Any paint that says it has primer in it only has enough to say it’s there. That’s great for going over existing paint but with your stripped floor, you need to use an ultra bonding primer like that Valspar stain blocking bonding primer at Lowe’s.
Holy CALVES Chase! Daaammnn boy they THICK!
I thought the same nice work bro
Aircraft paint stripper. Used this on MC rims before powercoating. Work great needed some fine tuning but it should have been a breeze on that concrete.
i would have just rented a paint eater for the rent all... had to do the same thing to my garage. it was like a concrete sander or something IDK worked like a champ!
spoke to soon! you guys got one at 17:56
OC: Intro: Hello fam welcome to the ChaseOnTwoWheels Money Pit series. Were we spend tons of money to get our WBRG up and running. Pray you guys don't run into anymore issues and have everything up and running perfectly.
this is a tough one because I read reviews on Home Depot that said the same thing about the Behr concrete product on other applications
Doesn't matter what top coat product you use if your prep isn't right.
After sanding should have applied muratic acid then pressure washed .
Mopping is the worst thing you could do ,especially with degreaser, all you are doing is spreading old oil around,ugh.
Acid opens pores then you pressure wash to remove all debris(oil,dirt,dust etc).
That intro sounded like it was from a shit 70's sitcom 🤣🤣
after the expoxy dries could of probably used a good hard floor polish in multiple layers to seal it down
You could have done this all in one day. You could have hired a dustlessblasting company to blast the old floor away and etch the concrete. They could been done with that in an hour or two and leave you to painting
Food for thought but I liked the video!
Did you consider putting down a primer? I know they say you don't need to, but I'm wondering if it would extend the square footage of the kit? Could you etch and primer a clean floor before starting the epoxy?
I know it's expensive but you should definitely look into swiss tracks or race deck. YOU NEED IT and you can bring it with you if you ever upgrade your shop in the future. Vs losing money and time with the epoxy floors
Temperature could also have had a negative impact on the painting of the floor. Maybe wait until summer months and try again.
Klein-Strip Aircraft paint remover is the best.
If this doesn’t work it doesn’t come off.
The cement needed to be roughed up first.
You guys are cute. Love your personality ❤❤
OC. Yeah so I would... I uh... Wait. There's no outro crew segment. Fade to black and white. Cue sad music. So when you think you're fine but your really not fine...........
Swisstrax to put on top ? To fix the paint problem for parking bikes 🏍
Not sure why you moved everything in before you did the floor. Wouldn't it be easier to do the floor in an empty shop?
Man... this is painful to watch haha 😄 that whole floor you could have ground with a walk behind grinder, which you can rent, in about 45 minutes...
Also they do make epoxy primers designed to bond to oil. Oil mitigation
I was thinking that the whole time they would have been done in a day three times doing it and he still hasn’t figured it out 🤦🏼♂️
I'm calling BS! I've coated three floors with this and had NO problems like you created. You failed to follow basic procedures in applying this coating.
Gutted flooring is causing so many issues pal, cant wait to see how shop will look when ready.
Should have rented a floor buffer and gorilla glue sand paper to it
I bought rock solid marble for my garage since I seen your older video. How has it held up for you? Should I do it?
Why did yall move everything in then decide to paint do floor do electrical and etc
Surface prep is the most important with this product. I used this on a two and a half car garage but instead of using the acid that came with it, I opted to grind the concrete for maximum adhesion.
On a large size shop like yours, you should've rented a diamond floor sander at home depot. And I filled the cracks with the rustoleum epoxy patch that they sell. Outcome is flawless and never peels off after over a year. Do not use a degreaser as this will seep more into the concrete. The diamond sander will remove everything from paint to grease as it cuts down about an eight of an inch each pass.
Acid etching is what makes it peel because it's hard to wash off the acid after.
How did you grind your floors? Did you rent the diamond sander as well? I was going to do that and then just use an angle grinder around edges. I'm getting ready to do my 2.5 car garge, and I've watched a lot of videos. You are absolutely correct. Prep is everything when it comes to epoxying the floor. Any advice is appreciated!
@@royals1833 I didn't rent a surface grinder. I just used a 4 1/2 grinder and bought a 4 1/2 inch Ridgid diamond cup wheel. If you just lay the grinder and just use its weight down, it's a breeze. BUT do it in 4 x 4 sections at a time, and remove the dust as you move along. Be ready to use a shop vac, a box fan and a leaf blower
@@royals1833 remember, the objective is just to scratch the surface, not to remove a lot of concrete. You will see it as the concrete changes color and surface. Don't dig in too deep. N95 3M dust mask is a must and goggles.
Let me know the progress!
@Tony R cool. How long did it take you to completely do your 2.5 car garage? Like from start to finsh, amd how many packs (boxes) of the rustoleum did you have to put down? Ive seen that it takes alot more to do it right than the box says will cover. Thanks man, i appreciate it.
@Tony R will do. So you didn't use the acid that came with it? I watched one video (I can't remember if it was the acid or not), but whatever he used made the pores of the concrete open up more so the product would stick better. Did you use the acid or skip over that?
What about lvp or lvt? I put a ton of that stuff down and some have really great texture and non slip properties.
Damn Rustomelum!! Reminds me of that time you said Sena Headsets didn't suck complete ass!
Swiss Tracs, or however they spell it, for the non work bay side of the shop
swis track would not be great if you have office chairs and stuff to roll around like the editors have I would think... I could be wrong but also I think he tried a version of that in his previous house garage and I'm pretty sure Chase can tell you all the reasons he opted to not use it again.
With the move, and how long this video took, i hope your time off you actually had time off. Feels like you've been a busy boy since coming back.
Edit: Seems this was all recorded before "radio silence". Glad to hear.
Y not the mats like adum lz put in his shop he has a youtube channel and have the video of thim installed it
My guy. Stop using that crap and check out U-Coat It! Use the polyurethane top coat and the siht is TOUGH AS NAILS! Love the content. Keep on keepin on!
Very misleading title. This is a perfect example of how to not follow directions. Etching after grinding just doesn't make sense. Using paint removers before applying coatings is just a terrible way to cause failures.
Hindsight is always 20/20, but you should have just done it right the first time and paid a flooring company to come in and put an epoxy coating on there for you. Home Depot also sells kits for you to do it yourself. It's super easy.
BOOOOOO
Why didn't you rent a concrete floor grinder?
Why don’t u put down some LVF it’s cheap and easy and almost no preparation
Do the team have other jobs or is the channel all of their full time jobs now? Good for them if they are able to make a living out of the content. They deserve it.
Have some patience for success!
A decent heavy epoxy resin coating is ways needed here to fully seal and cure the life out of that floor lol
Do you at least get a break in rent or something for all the improvements you're making at this shop?
Let's hope he actually bought the shop
What rustolium product did you use?
That’s good, it would have sucked if it didn’t work. Rock slid ain’t cheap
My old job we used this machine I think called a shot blaster, resurfacing concrete floors and that finally helped keep the paint and epoxy down and smooth.
Coverage depends on technique. Yours must be very poor. Like your juvenile vocabulary. Many people, myself included, have gotten excellent results and coverage with Rustoleum Rock Solid. No problems. Follow the instructions... if you can read them.
I would rent a floor scrubber and get a coarse pad. It should work with that stripper
@chaseontwowheels So what did Rustoleum lie about? Wasn't said in the video nor from what I could see in the comments..
As someone who has stripped and coated floors for over a decade, I could have given you so many tips and pointers of how to make that easier. 😂
Edit: Ah, you did finally go rent a machine. That would have been my first step 👍
DUDE, next time just throw down some tile or a linoleum roll. Much less work
You didn’t really follow the directions. Can’t blame the coating for your mistakes.
Careful when you take out that trash! I’ve seen lots of guys cut open their legs from taking out the trash with blades in them. Ugly cuts too
SwissTrax
Put a aluminium check plate floor down
Wait... so you moved all of your gear into the shop just to have to move it again so you could do the floors and electrical?? The guys that did DoItWithDans floors looked like they did awesome work.
OC - The bay end of the shop, how about some graffiti, "Bay End" on one of the walls?
That Behr paint has VERY bad reviews. Its not your floor is the bad product. Just look at youtube videos off that paint and read the comments
So I missed the part where that rustolium epoxy lies. If I remember right it’s the only thing that worked. Why is that the title of the video?
the lie was it doesn't cover as much as the box said it would, only was able to cover the work area but nowhere else in the shop.
The amount of time and money put into the “business” side, could have just gone with the rocksolid. Hoping that sticks to the oil and what not.
Get it professionally done maybe 🤔
What was the lie about?
swisstrax?