Setting up the Epax E10 3D Printer
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2020
- Welcome to Monocure 3D Protips. Today, we are excited to show you our first XL printer unboxing! Check out the very cool Epax E10 4K MSLA 3D Printer.
Meet John, Monocure3d's PrintLab Technician, as he walks you through how to set up and print with the Epax E10. He will be printing with our new pro resin specifically developed for your XL 3D prints, introducing BIGVAT™ Resin. This new resin was specially developed for printing large scale models on both colour and Monochrome LCD MSLA printers. It has been engineered to achieve the highest level of details possible and features enhanced build plate adhesion. Enjoy no more pigment settling or separation during the Print!
Printer Settings: monocure3d.com.au/printer-set...
Visit our website for more information: monocure3d.com.au/
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.::TIMESTAMPS::.
00:16 Unboxing
03:16 Printer's Specifications
04:56 Inspecting the Printer
07:28 Homing and Levelling the Build Plate
09:40 Menu Overview
12:02 Chitubox Settings and Slicing
14:01 Launching the Print
17:21 Printed Model
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.::PRODUCTS::.
BigVat Pro Resin: monocure3d.com.au/product-cat...
ResinAway: monocure3d.com.au/product-cat...
All Products: monocure3d.com.au/products-ca...
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::LINKS::.
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.::SOCIAL MEDIAS::.
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When I go to fill the vat on my E-10, I home first. That way you can fill the vat to the top and not have to worry about overflow. Great video guys!
Great tip! Thanks for the positive words.
how is your experience with the plastic molded buildplate?
i just found out that e10 is shipped with a plastic instead of a metal / aluminum plate.
i feel like this kind of build plate will get loosen more often compare to a metal ones.
how often you encounter a problem that requires to level your build plate?
@@losaminos59 We are not a fan of the plastic build plate - it moves during difficult prints.
@@Monocure3DProTips I see.. Worse is that epax doesn't offer any metal or aluminum build plate for E10 on their website. I don't think X10 is compatible with it.
@@losaminos59 Not a fan to be honest. We have seen it move on difficult prints. It need to be in Aluminium in my opinion.
A hot air gun is also good for getting rid of the bubbles. I also use one of those magnetic mixers to stir the resin. This does not introduce bubbles like shaking does. I just received mine and it is my first mono printer.
Yes another good way, thanks!
Epax levels the beds in the factory. My E6 didn't need leveling, it worked perfectly out of the box.
Good point! I remember this, but I guess we just do it out of habit now!
While I haven't tested it yet, I've been having failed prints on one side of my build plate since getting my E10 (have owned an X1 for a year now and it's great). I couldn't figure out why and found this video today that mentioned leveling using the four screws which the X1 didn't have. I believe this will be the key I was looking for.
Thank you for going threw all the funktions becaue my printer got stock on Chinese and video help me get out of it
Glad we could help
Thank you, the leveling piece helped me about the zero in doesn't work.
👍🏻
On the contrary, the Set Z=0 does indeed do something. You cant use it until you hit the Home button and then manually use the Up and Down buttons to move the build plate. The message he highlights in this video appears because you hadn't made any actual adjustments to your existing home screen setting. Be very careful when you manually move the plate up and down. For example, don't hit the Down button when your plate is all the way down and the height option is set to 10MM as this will force the plate down into your screen. Use the 0.1 and 1MM settings to fine-tune your settings accordingly. Once you get it set to where you want it, you then can hit this button and will give you the option to Confirm your new settings...
Ok thanks
always looking for videos on how to 3D resin print dimensionally accurate parts
More to come! We will make one of those very soon.
wait...so it comes stock, with a vat that will work for an upgraded 10.1? will the you need to get a bigger build plate later?
Not sure?!
I was dead set on getting this, even though as I'm in AUS it's very expensive (1,324.73 via Amazon).
However, after reviewing all of your videos on the 4K Mono Printers and reading the comments, It looks like your favorite is the ANYCUBIC Mono X, which I could get for 1,081.69.
The main reason I was wanting the Epax E10 was I wanted the largest build size so I could do larger models without having to print too many pieces. So being able to upgrade to the 5K larger build size was a big draw for me. That said I've never done 3d printing before, so I'm not really sure if the larger build size is a large enough difference to make a difference.
And now I'm really concerned hearing that you have had problems with the plastic build plate with difficult prints, as I would imagine larger 5K prints would have even more problems...
I have the Epax at home now and the plastic arm that holds the build plate is a big fail. It flexs with bigger prints and then resin gets flicked out of the vat while printing. It’s really hard to keep up with what’s the best printer as they seem to bring out a new one every month! At the moment, yes the MonoX is probably the best in this price and size range. Good luck!
@@Monocure3DProTips Thank you so much for the quick reply. That's really a shame.
I'm assuming that the plastic base is why you don't recommend the Phrozen Sonic Mighty.
Was there anything specific about the Mono X that puts it over the Creality LD 006?
All are good printers, but the MonoX has the ability to turn down the LED power. Plus, it will restore a print after a power outage! Those 2 reasons alone are enough for me!
Is that really all you guys did to level the bed? I have a bunch of Photons and I always need to level it with a piece of paper that pulls out perfectly even. Tried doing that with my two new E10s and can't get either to do the same. They just won't stay "level". Is this method not necessary with the E10?
Glad to know I'm not the only one having leveling issues with the E-10. It stays level for maybe 4-5 prints.
@@HeroicDimensions Honestly, I'm finding the buildplate rather cheap and I'm having consistent issues keeping the thing level. Like, how much more expensive would it have been to just make the buildplate all metal? It's what they sent out to a lot of early reviewers like Uncle Jesse and 3DPrintingPro. WTF, EPAX?
how is your e10 doing so far?
i'm on a fence between mono x and e10 but seems like this plastic molded buildplate from e10 is big let down...
how often do you need to level your e10 build plate?
i feel like this plastic plate will surely get worn out with screw holes very soon because of continuous levelling and tightening compare to metal or aluminum plates.
This is somewhat helpful. I just wish they would have taken more time in explaining some of the settings and terms.
Thanks for the tip
hello, can you please tell me something about dimensional accuracy?...is 20mm exactly 20mm when printed? what's the real tolerance?..thanks
Yes, dimensional accuracy is good on this printer as long as you have dialled it in correctly.
The e10 is so much quieter than the x10. Damn it. I paid the premium and I get stuck with the noise
Can the non-used resin be pour back in for storage?
Yes.
Sure
Hi which do you recommend Elegoo Saturn or Epax E10
I'm not a huge fan of the plastic build plate bracket on the Epax. Also have a look at the Mono X from Anycubic.
Thank you very much I decided on the Elegoo Saturn and ordered it
New to 3D printing, especially Resin. I have followed the steps in this video for setup, print head is leveled, and I recently just flashed the latest firmware. The issue I am having is that I am getting alot of curing outside of the print area during prints leading me to believe I have a flickering issue even after the new software release. I am printing for jigs and harder objects so I am using the Epax hard and tough as well as the Esun hard tough resins. I have printed several items with various degrees of failure. Epax Hard and tough is base about 25 seconds, 2.5 for layer and the 28 for esun with 8 second layers. Can anyone help troubleshoot the excess cure in the vat that is ruining prints?
Usually down the time of exposure and number of bottom layers.
@@Monocure3DProTips Thanks for the quick reply. I did lower the exposure on the esun (all that I have left) and I will post results. Both so far have been printed with 4 bottom layers, but ill look at that next.
@@chadjones7722 don't be afraid to try our resin!
@@Monocure3DProTips 14 hrs later I still have curing outside of the desired print area in weird layers, at different points in the print most of the printable area is cured around the model with the model still being pulled through this cure layer. Looks like a part with weird large leaves hanging off of it. Cure time is 2.8 seconds per layer. No complete failure of print (it did adhere to the print head) but this is still a failure of a print.
Like I said I flashed all the updated files for the firmware, but it appears my model may still be flickering during the print?
@@chadjones7722 Sounds like you might have a dodgy cable connection between the driver and the LCD - might be worth opening up the printer and checking all the connections are ok. Run a dry print with no vat and observe what is going on. If you see anything ab-normal then you will know what the issues are.
WhamBam coming for these bad boys Charlie?
I hope so! I'll find out and let you know
Why are all 3D printing channels so careful with the print plate? scraping it will just increase the adhesion of the bottom layers... it doesn't damage anything - as you actually say yourself at about 18:00
If you want to print flat on the build plate any scratches on the plate will be seen on the model.
@@Monocure3DProTips Well, I usually just print undersides flat on the plate. Therefore scratches don't matter at all.There are probably models, you could print flat on a side, but I haven't encountered one yet.
10:00 The "Set Zed to Zero is non-functional". No it isn't. You just don't know how to use it. You set it to home, make your adjustments, then set zed to zero. When you do it right, it has you confirm the set zed to zero, instead of telling you to set home first.
🙏