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Are you destroying your LCD screen when resin 3d printing?? Learn what settings may be doing it...
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- čas přidán 26. 09. 2020
- Time to talk about bottom layers and bottom exposure.
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Now this is a great discussion! I now need to go back through and relook at my printer settings to help try and save on my screens!
Lol, I use your settings Jess. Update video part 3 :). Thanks also Greg.
Jessy, didn't you make a video on LCD screens failures? I wonder if this could be a piece of the puzzle. I'm going to try different settings to see what happens.
@@stinkyham9050 think I have mine too high, struggle to get them off the plate a lot.
@@velveteenv76 I've been using 4 bottom layers at 100 seconds with regular exposure at 10 seconds on a Photon using Polyjuice resin (water soluble resin). I have great results, prints come off my plate easy with a plastic scrapper. I'm going to try setting my bottom exposure to 50 seconds and see what happens.
I find with water washable resin I have to go with significantly higher exposure settings and higher bottom layer settings otherwise I see more failures.
I'm new to resin, only been printing SLA for about a week; but veteran FDM guy.
You have been a patron Saint to resin printing for me. I'm using all of your support settings and I do 4-5 bottom layers at no more than 6x my normal exposure times.
Since doing that I no longer need a jack hammer to release my prints and they all turn out amazing!
I wish I had seen this 3 days ago when I just got my Photon Mono X. In 3 days of following many examples, I have found almost nobody knows anything with any certainty. I now have a gouge in my bed plate where an 80 second bottom layer exposure, cooked a raft on that required extreme chiseling at it to remove it. My FEP is scratched by tissue paper from cleaning, and has many marks where parts had been cooked onto it, and a couple of failures that attached to the FEP so well I marked up the FEP with the plastic spatula.
I've used your settings for the photon with elegoo grey for since i started this journey... have reduced to 5 bottom layers @ 55sec without any issues at all. Love what you're doing you're channel is my #1 recommended resource for new resin 3d printers
Since you mention some reservations about broaching this subject, for what it's worth this was extremely helpful for me to hear as a newcomer to 3d. I haven't cleared my first month of SLA printing yet and as you mention, most conventional wisdom seems to favor brutal exposure times which for me has just resulted in prints stuck so hard to the build plate I practically have to chisel them off. Not knowing any better I've simply been grateful to the Micro Center employee who encouraged me to purchase a flex plate. In the last couple weeks I have contemplated reducing exposure time only to conclude this must be poorly reasoned newbie impulses at work-and the result has been prints on unreasonably tall supports that I can just break off without damaging the important bit when I begin excavating the build plate. I assumed everybody must be putting up with this and it's just a cost-of-doing-business thing. So this video helped me understand a bit more of the mechanics and settings, and also realize that if I'm questioning something it might warrant more research to determine if a specific piece of advice is actually right for my particular scenario. Thanks!
Thank you for this video! After watching it I changed the settings on both my new Mars 2 Pros and my Original Mars Pros. Reduced my Mars Pros to 60 seconds (from 75) and down to 4 layers from 8. On my Mars 2 Pros I went from 35 second bottom layers to 12 seconds and 4 layers from 8. The settings work great! I used to have to almost hammer the prints off the Mars 2 Pros and now it is much better. Thanks again!
Great!
Thanks Arcane. Will try this settings on my Mars Pro 2 as well. I am only just starting but it was a pain in the ass to take the prints off the plate : )
i have too that mars pro 2 its work ? better than the raccomanded ?
thats good to know, I just bought a M2P myself and the rook test print was so stuck i actually had to force it out by hand because i accidentally scratched the plate with the spatula, I'm going to maybe reprint the rook with these settings and then test it on a miniature
@@viniciusfrj I'm just as new as you. Definitely going to support the rook with a 10° tilt before printing because I see people complain about the flat base sticking all the time.
Wish I saw this video before I started printing a week ago. I knew my times were too high but the big difference and other people advise threw me off. You sir are a legend, please keep up uploading videos like this. Thanks so much!!!!!
This video was recommended to me in a timely manner, had just had a few failures so was contemplating jacking up the bottom layers and exposure time. Thanks for the warning.
Your suggestion about leveling fixed all my issues. I knew the lift plate was right, but when i dropped a level on top of the machine i realized the table wasn't. Leveled it out and everything has been coming out great since. THANKS!
You're a lifesaver!!! I'm still only a few weeks in, and only just got prints to stop sticking to the FEP literally like 3 days ago. One of the things I tried in my desperation was to increase exposure times. Upon reading someone's reddit post, I increased my bottom layer from Elegoo's recommended 35 seconds for this resin, to... 90!!! Luckily I've only done 3 prints with this setting so far-- this video came at a perfect time! I'm going back to Elegoo's "official" recommendation of 35 seconds for the time being, then when I'm more experienced and my prints are less likely to fail, I'll drop it lower. Thank you!! I'm surprised this isn't talked about more!!!
You have no idea how grateful I am to have stumbled upon this video.
Just got a new Photon Mono X. Struggled on first few prints. As soon as watched this my confidence went up I feel like I know where to begin.
UV Power 80%
Exposure: 2.4
Bottom 6 layers
Bottom Exposure: 15sec
Prints came out perfect. It's attached quite hard to the plate, I will try 12 sec, 3 layers on the bottom next.
Thank you so much.
EXCELLENT POINT John! In addition (from the source:-) I would like to add. Three (3) long exposure layers are more than enough. If anyone has a non-sticking issue I urge you to increase the "elephant foot" or the "raft". Basically you should increase the area of the first three layers. Let's say that you should build a island on which you're going to build your model.
Now, time wise... Everything that is more than 4-times more than a normal layer is OVERKILL and DANGEROUS!!!!!
Let's examine a bit a mechanism of photo-polymerization. As said number of times polymerization is an exothermic reaction. Meaning that during the transition from liquid to solid state a LOTS of heat is generated from your resin alone! Now to that heat add the heat from UV irradiation and you have troubles on two fronts! One being your LCD ant the other being your FEP film.
FEP film is ALREADY under stress because is under tension. When you heat it you make it softer and more "rubbery"... to the point that you get wrinkles. LCD on the other hand got it's undesirable heat from the bottom from UV irradiation and heat convection from "UV brick/heatsink" and from the top from resin due to polymerization.
Think of LCD life as a rubber band. If you stretch it to let's say 60% of the maximum you could do that almost indefinitely. But stretch that band three times to the max extension ...and the fourth time is a goner! GOT IT?!?!?
So, bottom line... use max 3-bottom layers, use a large raft , use max 3x normal layer time for the first layers.
One trick that we use often is to use a "clean" function for making a first layer! The clean function is a method to expose the entire build area. This way you make a film of cured resin that might grab some residual semi-cured or floating flakes. Of course you engage in a cleaning function without a build plate. The trick is to lower your build plate to the bottom. Perform a cleaning exposure and then you proceed with your usual printing with a cured first layer already on your build plate.
I have Anycubinc mono m5 at our lab. The best normal exposure time I found by calibration is around 2.75-3 Sec with the default resin. Also having 3-4 bottom layers with exposure time of 20 sec works really well for medium samples. If the bottom exposure times is 15, the smaples do not stick.
If I have the default settings, sometimes some samples become really hard to get off the bed. Specially if the shapes bottom surface is too flat.
Also I think having a very large exposure time for bottom layers will give you a bigger elephant foot effect on initial layers. It may matter to some people that need details on the initial layers for some reason.
Definitely going to switch my settings immediately. I've been forced to overexpose just a bit at 9.25 seconds (normal exposure) for elegoo grey on a standard mars. This pretty much insures success even on the most sensitive pre-supported patreons. However, my bottom layers remain at 8 and 70 seconds! After watching this I realize I might be overdoing it a bit. My printer is only a few weeks old so I'm very happy to have found this info early on! Many thanks my friend, and I am looking forward to the final days of your kickstarter. I backed that one without hesitation, keep up the great work!
great video. I learned the hard way after burning two screens. I didn't know the importance of the light off time in addition to the bottom layer exposure time.
When did Vin Diesel get so good at 3D printing and start doing these videos?
How does he find the time 😂
Family
This is EXACTLY what has been happening to me. I am this close to just giving up on the hobby. Thank you for making this.
Choir boy
Gotta say, even 55 seconds seems a bit high. Most of my bottom layers are
Gonna experiment with the mini 4k right now. I had a suspicion my base exposure times were too high because sometimes prints were sticking *too* well to the build plate. I'll report back with my results....
EDIT! follow up below:
I have tried a few times now, and 5 base layers with a bottom layer exposure time of 10 seconds gives me a good amount of adhesion while also allowing prints come off very nicely. Thanks for the tip Greg!
For further clarification, I lightly sand my build plate. Still using these settings 👍
Good stuff
@@jaredhuss7149 iv never heard of sanding the plate, is this just for better grip?
@@unifiedmongoose7915 Sorry for the suuuuper late reply. This will vary from manufacture to manufacture. I was just following Phrozen's instructions. I know some manufacturers have started "texturing" their build plates straight from the factory.
@@jaredhuss7149 Thanks for your inputs Jared, what number of sandpaper you used for your mini 4k? Thanks very much.
Thank you for this! I tried your suggestion with a little apprehension, but it worked for me! I had always just used the default of 60s per bottom layer but now I can save half the time with my resin. Again thanks!
I could have never expected to have this explanation by Thanos himself!! (no pun intended). Thank you very much! checking my settings right away
just got my first SLA printer (Photon Mono X), saw this video and been testing today. final setting have been bottom exposure: 30, bottom layer: 5 with a 1.8-2.2 normal exposure time. i was initially doing 2.2 normal, 50-60 bottom exposure and 8 bottom layers. thanks for the great advice!
Feeling extremely called out by this video. 😂
Burn into fep is EXACTLY what happened to me using black resin. Thank you so much for this information! The high layer count and high time is exactly what I've been guilty of!!! Im gunna use your advice and see what happens. Thanks Greg!!
Wish i had discovered your channel and video before i burnt out my screen.
I've been using 60 seconds for bottom layer on my creality Ld002r. Now I've got burnt spotty screen.
Nevertheless better late than never, it's a continuous learning experience and thank you people like you for sharing wisdom and learnings.
Seems like bigger bases need less exposure on the first layers because the surface area they cover takes more face to remove when applying vertical force. The smaller the base, the less vertical force it would take to remove, and the more you need it to stick, thus higher exposure times. Also, the number of layers most likely depends on your layer height. The thicker the layers, the less number of them you need. There is a relation to all these settings and really the slicer software should be able to lock them together as they do with scaling ratios as an option (check box).
I think this is pretty solid advice, and the problem is that chitubox is putting in pretty high bottom exposures as well.
I started out with the basics from chitubox at 40s exposure on 6 layers.
Now the miniatures stuck to the build plate just fine, but I could hardly get them off and had to use extreme force to get them off.
Common sense told me that it shouldn't work like that, and I started lowering the time.
So far I have had 0 print failures concerning build plate adhesion and have dropped to 30s over a few printing sessions.
However looking at this video I am gonna drop my settings even more and see how easily I can remove them afterwards (though they pop off reasonably already now).
Thanks for this video, keep it up!
This wasn't the video I was looking for (somehow got here after trying to find if I need to replace my FEP yet or not) but this is absolutely the information I needed to know in the long run. I recently turned my settings up to match someone else because I was having issues with printing, glad to know it could cause harm. And I'm pretty sure the issues I am having with my prints are more due to rising speed anyway. Thanks for the vid.
I gotta thank you,
Im pretty new to resin printing, and I set up my settings useing your support setting and set my printer useing this method and haven't had an issue since . Supports just come off with a touch and model pops off build plate no issues, no more struggle.
I use Monocure3d rapid resin.
Oh wow thanks I’m new to 3D printing and I had high exposure like 115 thanks for the advice I could’ve screwed up my printer but luckily I came across your video
The resin can heat up past 200C when exposed to UV, if only for a moment during the curing.
It generally doesn't when curing through the LCD, but if you have some on your hand or gloves while swapping screens and the light ticks on you'll know....
Great video. Thanks for explaining everything well and showing your settings. I had been having trouble getting good prints with my printer with lots of fails and ruined films. Adjusted to settings near yours and was blown away with how much better my prints today was. Thanks for helping me learn and to enjoy my printer again
I think most people do a lot of layers/bottom exposure time because when they are new to printing, they fail the first time, then when they go to the internet to ask for help the first thing they find is an excel sheet that show best settings for each type of resin. For the anycubic [for example], that sheet suggests 8 layers at 120 bottom exposure. They give that a try, and it works. So they don't question it anymore and start printing like that forever.
Just had a guy in a group post a screenshot of his settings, 8 bottom layers, 70s exposure, 13s exposure for normal layers. He said he got the settings off his bottle of resin, they really need to stop printing those on the bottles. It's insane
I would agree! causes more problems than it helps.. :)
@@3dprintingpro212 He was baking the base layers so hard it was pulling his magnetic sheet from his build plate. Lol
But those are the only settings my printer prints at (90s base and 14s normal)...
Should I change the LCD?
Waiting for mye first resin printer. This info is GOLDEN. The ritual to get to know what to do and what not do to while You wait is underrated. Knowledge ahead of impatience to get started
Im using a Mars 2 Pro with a mono screen, and normally Elegoo water washable resin. Elegoos reccd settings are 5 layer base exposed at 35 secs, then 2 secs a layer. Seems to work sweet as a nut for me even with "big chunky" prints that have a lot of surface to lift. Great base adhesion, no base peel, but clicks right off with a nudge at the edge at the end of the run. Water washable has different settings to normal resin so the settings for normal would be different. The 2 Pro Mono is a massive step forward IMHO....very impressed.
You have had the most informative channel for Resin printing and just want to say thank you for doing what you do. I new to this and you've made my transition from FDM so much smoother. Plus I like how "Real" you are about each subject and not to "Sciency" LoL Just got the new Photon Mono and loving what this machine can do and how much faster it prints compared to the LDR002.
what is your setting for your Photon mono?
I think your right you helped me figure out my print failure I appreciate the advice thanks man.
i got my 3d printer a little over a year ago. the first few prints were ok, some messes ups, but over all worked out well. Idk what it is but I'm having the hardest time getting anything to print. I'm going to try some of this tips and hope it helps. 🤞
I typically follow the recommendations of the bottle, starting at the lowest recommended settings. Example I use eco white resin from Anycubic a lot. Their recommendation for layer exposure is 3-15 seconds. I've found for my Anycubic Photon Mono 2k that 3 sec let prints melt into themselves, 12 secs had supports cracking miniatures when removing them and 9 secs ending up curing it enough to easily remove supports and prevent parts of the mini from sagging. so 9 secs for layer with 6 base layers at 35 seconds on eco resin is my sweet spot for my specific printer. I have some regular grey resin I need to use up and that i run the same base layers and time but layer exposure is turned down to 2 secs.
After this video I may lower the bottom layer count just to try it but 6 is working well so no burning desire to change settings. I typically look at online forums, spreadsheets and compare that to the recommendations on the bottles. But again I simply look as a reference, I'm using the lowest recommendation on the bottle and increasing from there as needed. I test print a miniature base that has a large spike sticking out of it because this helps me check supports and if the layer cure time is long enough, if its too short then the large spike will collapse back down into the base. This is just how I do it, I've only been printing since Christmas so grain of salt but it works for me.
This is super interesting. My Mars 2 Pro comes in defaulted at 5 seconds for the layer and the base layer being 90
Since using your settings on my Mono X I have had nothing but perfect prints and my FEP is lasting forever. Thanks!!
It's really great that you made this video, but the unfortunate truth is that most people using 3d printers have no idea how they work, and no interest in tweaking settings. They just go online and copy someone else's settings. Almost none of them will ever try to calibrate themselves, and when they invariably end up welding their prints to the plate, many of them run out a buy a flexible build plate like that whambam refrigerator magnet or some other gimmick thinking that's what you have to do.
I have had a bit of resin on a glove I was wearing and went to move something on my curing plate and had the resin start to cure on my glove and it felt like putting my hand next to a campfire. I yanked my hand back and realized what had happened and started laughing, it got hot quick.
I've only been printing a week on my 1st resin machine, a Mono X. The machine came set at 100% UV power and the software defaults to 8x 40 seconds on bottow layers. Everything printed at these settings was impossible to remove without breaking. After lots of test prints I've found 4x 17s bottom layers and 2.7 seconds is perfect for Monocure rapid clear.
I am one of those who does a higher base and curing time for base layers and 9 layers and 90-120s well I do extrusion sometimes as well. And the kind of resin varies. However, I tried to use your sitting after I saw this video and you know what, at a certain level for 4-60s the print stick to the vet and left the print plate at 60mm hight. I increased it to 8-90s and happens again at a 120 mm level. So it's really relevant to how big your print hight and the base connection raft as well , this is a heavier print. Thanks for your videos and the time and effort you put in there.
On my sonic mini, I've been using a 3.5s exposure time and 4 bottom layers for a while now, but with a 25 second bottom layer exposure time (6.25x). No issues, at all. I'm going to try setting it to 18, to get it closer to 5x the normal exposure time, and see how it goes. Thanks for the video!
Wow! This is incredible. It works!!! Thanks so much for this video. Everybody kept telling me to up the exposure to ensure sticking to the build plate. Don't need it and this is waaaay faster.
On my EPAX x10 mono the factory recommended bottom exposure time was 25+ seconds. I believe Greg runs as low as 14, but I was having some issues that low, and I’ve lowered my normal prints to 20 seconds / 4 layers, and it’s been consistently working perfectly for about 30 hours now.
Just got a epax e10 4k mono, gonna try this
@@Xenoti After months of printing EPAX hard black and EPAX hard gray is the answer to most questions. They are absolutely amazing to print with.
I'm dealing with a strange issue on my printer that I have not found the best solutions for, but having watched this video I'm thinking you might have hit the nail on the head! I did not have settings dialed up incredibly high but they were higher than necessary for sure.
So this is is a great vid, but what I did find on the industrial level printing options, the Elegoo Jupiter Printer and large scale printers come defaulted with a set 30 second bottom exposure time and a 3 second layer time. This just leads to non stop failures with the initial test prints. I ended up bumping them up to 90 for the bottom exposure and then 6 to the layers. Fixed the issue. Especially on bigger machines and larger prints I was super surprised that was what the baseline Jupiter stats was. Love the channel!
Great video! I'm going to try this on my next print and see what works for me. These high times and layers are what I learned a month ago when I started and what I have been telling other new people to use.
I found for my printer (QIDI S-Box) Bottom layer count 5/Bottom exposure time 60 seconds in colder weather, summer time I use bottom layer count 4/Bottom exposure 50 seconds in summer months. I have also found that I remove the build plate and I rinse the bottom portion of the print off with IPA PRIOR to any attempt at removing model. Have not had any issues at this point.
Thanks for the discussion. I'm a noob at this part of the hobby and appreciate the input.
same i havent even printed anything yet. my printer is sitting in its box waiting for xmas day. I can't wait and am trying to learn all I can. there's so much more to this than I imagined.
This works fine for me. Just got an Epax E10 and used Siraya Blu for my first resin. Exposure test showed 5.1s was best, and I'm using 18s exposure for bottom layers, and 4 bottom layers. Just printed a huge piece and it came out great, no failures, not build plate separation.
Yes I agree I've been listening to many different sources about resin 3D printing and the information they're giving regarding curing settings is all over the place a lot of these content creators are transitioning from filament printing and not quite experts in their own right on resin printing
Truly appreciate your help! I just bought a new printer and need to adjust the settings for successful prints. Thank you.
Dude I had 2 fails last night, stuck to fep screen. I’m trying this tonight. Just small rings I’m printing as practice for supports and what not. Excited to see if it works
HOW DID IT GO?
Ok so followed your advice. Settings were 8 layers at 70 seconds 🤦🏻♂️. Adjusted to 5 layers at 12 seconds. Printing now will advise on results. Great video!
Depending on your resin and layer height and type of printer you might want to go to 20 seconds or so first to test :)
@@3dprintingpro212 roger that! I just got the Saturn S and 10 bottles of water resin. Sky’s the limit. I’ll keep trying different settings and post results. This was a great topic and well explained. Ty sir. Subbed
@@bubba6richards729 For Saturn S, with water wash resin, to be safe, test at .04 layer height, 4 bottom layers and 25 seconds bottom time, then you can adjust from there :)
Your such a help.... Im doing the exposure benchmarks and the lower exposure is working VERY well so far!
Hi, im rather new to resin printing and this was very helpfull -> Thank you!
Dropped my bottem layer settings from 6 layers, 30 secs to 5 layers 15 sec on a 2.5 sec cure-time for normal layers on a Anycubic M3 Max..
Thank you for saving me from possible disasters. I will try and see how much further i can drop the bottem layer settings :)
This is really interesting and I have noticed the common advice I get from others is always more time, more layers. This reminds me of your resin temperature video as something that I don't often see listed as a thing to check when troubleshooting. I've been having trouble printing the AG kobold with the cape and from your videos I suspect it has to do with my spouse loving the doors and windows open, so I've ordered a heater and thermostat for my printing cabinet.
Learnt the hard way that maybe it isnt a good idea to cut off circulation with a bin over my photon and it causing the resin to go weird.
Great video! I almost destroyed my Photnon Mono X over timing the bottom exposure! Thank you very much!
I use elegoo grey resin on a longer orange 30. My standard layer time is 8 seconds. When I was running 6 bottom layers with 60 second exposure time I was having a large problem with the lower parts of the minis warping or the prints failing completely. I upped the exposure time to 80 seconds and haven't had a failed print or warping problem since. I'm experimenting with fewer bottom layers but having each layer cover more of the build plate with an adhesion pad.
Thanks! I went from 7 layers at 80s to 4 layers 25s, and it still works fine, using the Anycubic Eco-resin. My screen thanks you!
Which printer are you doing this on? I’m using that resin too, but maybe a different color
@@teyrasiridae4704 I use the pink resin, on a Photon S.
I just got my first resin printer, not new to 3D printing (since 2013). First thing i thought of was not to over cure. 1. It will wear the screen out 2. It will pull hard on the sheet, also causing wear 3. It will pull the model apart 4. Cause warping
My first print was the sample Eiffel Tower the machine came with, than a few fun ones to test it out. Compared to FDM there's much more prep and clean up work but overall machine maintenance and tuning parameters are far simpler IMO
It would be great to create a data sheet like the Virtual Desktop VR Game Experience Database, with different resin brands and 3d printer makers, it would be a pain to filter but if the community helps, it might be doable
Anycubic mono with 2 second exposure, doing 6 bottom layers at 20 seconds with no adhesion issues, and clean separation. Now I'm going to try ratcheting it down to 12seconds and see how it goes!
Ever since I started printing(Anycubic Proton) in November I have been using water washable resin with 3 bottom layers, 55 bottom exposure, 8s layers. Have not had any problems with prints after getting the hang of supports.
I am just looking into 3d printing and doing a lot of studying. Amazind how much the info differs on printer settings. Just subbed you.
just saw this video came out yesterday. was gonna do a bunch of testing with my printer today. ive been using higher bottom layers and time on those layers while learning (and just getting stuff printed to paint) today is my day off and ive got a BUNCH of small models to test on. stoked to try it out. this was good info!
I use a 0,3mm height raft (when printing with supports) so normally I use 5 or 6 bottom layers with 0,06 and 0,05mm LH - wich gives 0,3mm. Exposure time is 40secs. Nromal exposure is 9sec with 0,06mm LH. Works perfect (few kgs of resin without issues) and saves resin.
I'm really glad i found this video before i set up my mars 2 pro! thank you for bringing light to this misconception!
I recently printed a fairly large space ship model with a photon mono x (over 500ml so i had to refill the vat mid print)
First attempt was failed due to too few supports
2nd try was a success with iirc 8 layers but only 10 seconds exposure compared to my 3 seconds while printing
(solid grey resin because of the first failed Print used up too much of my clear resin for another try)
The bottom layers held like a champ
It's just a typical case of people fixing a problem the wrong way. Also before each print I wipe the bottom of my vat with 3 in 1 PTFE lubricant. It did make me a little nervous at first because frankly you cannot hear the first layer pop off the FEP screen. Maybe a little bit if you listen closely but that's it.
Thanks. Have a Mars and use water washable resin. Going to print some mini heads and use your settings. May have to stick with 14s exposure, 8s was giving me soft minis that would easily break while trimming off the supports. Shouldn't have that problem with heads, don't have lot's of small bits sticking out. Going to go with 0.025 mm slices to see if the details improve much.
Glad you made this video! I've had serious issues getting prints off my plate and never really considered messing with the bottom layer settings. For some reason I was under the impression that 10x normal curing time was a standard. I started a print tonight with 7s layer/35 sec bottom layer so hopefully I'll have an easier time getting those prints off in the morning!
Fantastic advise. I went from 8 bottom layers to 5 and found my prints come off the plate easier. Usually about 45-55 second exposure for bottom layers. Very interesting that the longer exposure can burn to the FEP and make prints fail.
6 layers with 50sec bottom exposure time optimized numbers. At least for me for Anycubic. Never failed. Also normal exposure time should not be more than 4.5 sec max. 3 sec. is suitable for many cases.
That is really good to know. Guilty of 10 layers at 80! Trying 4 layers at 55 tonight.
How did that work for you?
@@jonruehle9186 worked great , no issues at all. Definitely worth doing it.
Glad im learning this in my first week of resin printing. Been printing in a 40 degree garage so i cranked everything up
Thank you so much for sharing this! I'm a total newbie at resin printing so this info is extremely helpful. I am using the Creality LD-002R with Elegoo grey water washable resin. I'm still working out the details of what exposure settings are optimal, but I think I'm getting better.. Your channel really helps, thank you!
Just stumbled across this video, this is quite interesting to hear! I use a Photon S (and have a Mono X on the way) and my current bottom layer settings are 15 layers @ 70 seconds each. For all further prints I'm going to massively reduce both of these numbers! Thank you for the wisdom!
Just to chime in. I use 3 bottom layers (0.05) at 30s on Anycubic Photon S (normal exposure at 9s). And I'm having issues with your flat bases. They are really hard to get off of build plate. Razor blade does help though. :) Never had a fail due to resin not sticking to build plate at only 30s for bottom layers.
I did sand the build plate with a P1000 sandpaper (straight motion, lengthwise) as suggested somewhere else.
Something nobody talks about… if you can make the first layer thinner, it cures faster and bonds better to the build plate.
E.g., on the Phrozen Sonic, this is determined by the thickness of the paper used when calibrating the Z axis. Then, the other bottom layers just need to be stiff enough to reinforce it, and less exposure is needed.
Thank you for this. I am dialing in my Mars 3 and new to resin printing and the defaults in Chitu were considerably higher. I will try the lower settings.
Subbed! I saw Azrael/Batman in the background. Not too many people know much about him, much less have him hanging on the wall. Lol!
wow, wish i watched this 3 months ago. moved to 30sec 4 layers on mono x printer, much easier to get stuff off build plate and have had 0 failures
Whoops I've been doing 8 layers at 120s on my anycubic photon.
Been thinking about this as well. I've been very surprised to see such high exposures in online discussions, while in my work I'm aiming to minimize exposure times. I've been using Blu+Tenacious. My base layers are down to 20 sec. That's not quite 2X the normal exposure. Never lost adhesion from the plate. That said, I always hollow and vent to minimize tension.
There's more to be discussed on the topic. I'm not sure that plate adhesion is the only factor when determining base layer exposure time.
I've recently been using 10 bottom layers, but all the way down to 35s bottom exposure. I've not had any failures with adhesion, and it practically slides off the build plate.
Thank you, this is very helpful! I was having a lot of trouble with my first couple prints on my Mono X where it's adhering to the FEP instead of the build plate. I'm going to try following your formula for the burn-in layers on my next print.
Did it work?
@@CinemaZiggy It did. I've had dramatically fewer failures since I switched to 20s / 6-8 burn in layers. I've been very successfully using 1.4s exposure with Siraya Fast and 1.8s with Elegoo Gray @ 100% UV power. 1s Light-off delay, 6mm lift after print, 1mm/s lifting, 3mm/s lowering. 50um layer height.
@@snychologist8678 Awesome! Is that just w/ minis or also larger heavier prints?
@@CinemaZiggy That's with a full build plate and heavy stuff. Really heavy solid pieces have to be in the middle of the build plate with using Lychee medium supports and bracing. I've increased the layers to 8 in those instances. I have to increase the exposure to 2s if the model I'm printing uses really thin supports or super thin contact points like .2mm when printing with the Elegoo Gray.
I've found the pixelate round and shape wall rafts to be the most successful. I have a harder time with the line triangle rafts or when the pre-supported model didn't export right and the raft isn't completely flat.
@@snychologist8678 Awesome I’m will try this out! Thank you!
Thankyou so much for this, i recently added a large format 4k mono resin printer to my workshop ( previously i had Elegoo Mars and Nova3d Elfin) I am really struggling with prints fusing themselves to the fep i have gone through 3 sheets now and only had 1 successful print the fep is £20 a sheet! so it has been frustrating. I followed the settign in the calibration file, 5 bottom layers at 35s and then 3s per layer with 0.05 thickness. Watching this videao has opened my eyes and made me realize exactly what was going wrong , so thank you :)
I have a mono x as well, are you having more success now? I was having similar issues earlier on
I started with a normal layer exposure x3, (which failed 100% of the
time) and tested with increasing bottom exposure until the prints did
not fail in that way.
On a mars2 mono (non pro) with "rain-x" applied to the fep.
for Anycubic grey, I use 5 bottom layers at 15 seconds each ( layer exposure is 2.6 seconds)...elephant foot starts at 9 seconds, but prints don't stick reliably until 12-13.
for Siraya tech blu v2, same printer ; 4 bottom layers @ 12 seconds ( layer exposure is 2.75 seconds).....elephant foot starts at 8, prints stick reliably enough at ten, and an extra couple of seconds to prevent the warping on the corners of large objects that I got with this resin. ( when the elephant foot doesn't matter, then 14-20 sec for this resin...more is hard to remove from the build plate, and starts to stick to the fep.)
been running 10 bottom layers at 60 seconds. had some issues with stuff sticking a while ago, but lately found stuff been very tricky to get off the plate. I'm going to try and trim down a little.
Well mate i would agree with you except for the fact that most resins i have used are 30 seconds minimum. 30 seconds on base layers, 3 seconds on normal. So from the manufacturer thats 10x your normal exposure time. I used 32 seconds and 3.2 for my normal layers atm, had a couple of failed prints last 2 days but that was cause of me over tightening my Fep when i had to replace it for the 1st time myself. I had to up that time when i got my new magnetic build plate. It did not have the beautiful cross hatching my anycubic mono x 6k has. So i had to sand it up a little and pushed my base layers to 40-50 seconds depending on size. If you dont want to cook your screen go for longer times but turn your uv power down to say 85% that has worked for me as well.
The LD-002R forced me to fine-tune my bottom layers. The photon was really forgiving with bottom layers, but if you have your exposure up too high on the LD-002R it is damn near impossible to get the prints off of the build plate. You want to slowly lower your bottom exposure settings until it is just enough to stick without sticking too much.
Great video and lots of wisdom to take advantage of. Think you could share a bit more of numbers please?
From the video I gather 6 bottom layers should be more than enough. If my exposure is 2.2 secs then the bottom exposure should be anywhere around 10 to 14 secs.
What about transition layers, light off delay, etc??
Thanks for your time
Thanks for this video. Chitubox default and Elegoo recommends 35s bottom layer for the water washable resin on my Mars 2 Pro. So far, I've reduced it to 25s and it still sticks very well. I'm trying 20s next and feel that, that 15s may actually be the sweet spot, but I'll find out. Again, thank you for shedding light on this.
what exposure time do you use?
Thanks for the suggestions on changing the bottom layer times. I’m fairly new to resin printing and I e noticed my prints are difficult to come off sometimes. I will try lowering the length of exposure time. As for the layers, I have mine (Creality Halot) set to 3 bottom layers.
At about 5:56 you mention printing larger things. I printed a tank hull just yesterday with 5 bottom layers, 45 sec Bottom Exposure Time. It worked just fine. (Mars Pro)
4 bottom layers at 50 sec exposure is all i use on my Mars. Works even better now that I slowed down my lift speed.