Janja Garnbret V Ai Mori - pacing comparison
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Pacing Matters!
One of the simplest ways for a climbing coach (or self-coached climber) is to look into your athlete’s pacing. Better climbers are vastly more variable in this regard, as you can see in this comparison of the two best female lead climbers. On a lower level (athletes that struggle to make semis for example) you tend to find more uniform pacing. You might also find limited attention spans, like climbers that that fall off after a certain time, (almost) regardless of how hard the climb is. So, check pacing and time spent as a worthwhile first step for performance analysis!
Ai vs Janja on lead is the most compelling competition climbing i have seen in 10+ years watching.They are just always requiring each other to be at their best in order to finish above the other. Love what they bring out of each other and its impact on the sport's level of competition.
This is great comp
みんな素晴らしい選手です😊
maybe dont leave both comment tracks running at the same time next time
actually i find it pretty enjoyable
@@nandovancreij yeah it was like those documentary montages when they have different news commentary interspersed to provide context and backstory :D
ai actually climbed the top section 90 seconds faster. incredible
And 90 seconds slower lower section :D
@@_kate_s the lower section is the easier section which awards lower points. lead routes get progressively harder the farther you progress, and the points awarded commensurate that difficulty. ai was slower at the beginning because she had to climb down and rethink how she'd approach the particular dynamic section of the wall (which, worth-mentioning, is the point at which 3 other climbers fell), and would require a much stronger jump for someone of her stature and reach. so yes, it is very impressive that she climbed through the top section at the speed she did.
She has incredible endurance and lots left in the tank. She climbed the route beautifully. Like poetry on the wall. So zen to watch. She’s the only climber I watch and follow. It’s like watching art on the wall. So fluid. Just gorgeous. It’s no wonder her fans are increasing. 😊
@@lill8537+1 thats also my idol as well. All that Ai does on the wall seems sometimes not so obvious but very technical indeed and smart at same time. She's like a poetry, I agree.
Ai more had more time on the clock, how come Janja won this?
The same way as Ai won in Edinburgh. On count back. Janja was faster than, but Ai won.
@@_kate_swhat do u mean?
@@keinbeaton8248 in case of a tie, the climber who placed higher in the semifinals wins. So instead of rewarding a faster pace it rewards a more consistent result over the whole competition.
They both topped here, so count back to semi, but then they both fell on the same hold 48+, so they went back to the qualifier's result with which Janja had a better result.