thank you for noy blaring crappy music whilst you work..i like the machines to make the music..and i also enjoy your occasional narration..great videoing and editing...
I believe the reason the faceing cut looked like a record player is because your cutting tool is pointed to a sharp point , a small radius at the tip of the cutting tool should take care of most of that. at least that is what I'ed try ! thanks for the videos that Rockwell seams to be a really nice lathe ! and keep the Reeves drive and dispense with the electronic speed control they have no guts where you need it ! (at the bottom end) ...only my opinion of course ! ...Bob......
After watching your videos I’m on the hunt for a Rockwell mill and lathe. I’m sure it will be tough to find one with a taper turning attachment ! Awesome find and amazing work. Your videos are very well put together and you easily keep my attention. I don’t just fast forward through the video, I watch it from the beginning to the end.
Really enjoying this series. I am not sure if this is correct but using the hand feed it is hard to keep the feed rate steady ,and this maybe what causing the record looking grooves ?. I think it would allow the tool to stay in one place a bit longer causing that to look the way it does. I am no pro ,so if I am wrong then people out there who are ,please correct my thought's on this. All my best. Bobby
We did not know about the tail stock scales being straight up and down or facing forward out towards the operator, always discovering something. Nice cutting work on the mill. We like the disk you made to overcome the height your tool post better then the short cut you shared of stacking the two pieces of stainless steel, looks to be really strong will watch it cut something great soon. Lance & Patrick.
Two things on the "record" lines; 1. hone a slightly larger radius on your tool and 2 check the gibs in the cross slide/compound. Put a last word gauge in the tool post and a test piece (drill rod) in the chuck/tail stock. Grab the tool post by the top and see how much play is in the cross slide/compound at different parts of the bed.
That record looking finish on your part is due to very small imperfects in the cross-slide or sometimes the headstock. When the streaks are very long like that (the record look) then it means that there's some stuff going on with your cross-slide, you can fix it but its very difficult and expensive, and not worth it. The headstock problem would be a sort of ghostly version of this where some sections have streaks and others do not, again very hard to fix (and not your issue). This finish is less than a thou variation (when you can see it but can't feel it at all, and can sand it down pretty quickly, then that's less than a thou). TL: DR don't worry about it, it's just the finish. Awesome video! Edit: oh also it may be because your tool is too sharp, sharp tools wear easier and deform easier, if you give that tool a small radius, one lick of the grinding wheel, and it will likely do better
I did sharpen and I thought that as well. That the cutter geometry is to sharp and the radius is not enough causing the bit to wear faster. I will try carbide and see if it goes away. Thanks!
I'm in pretty much the same place now - the quick change that I was given had a T plate cut for a SB and I need to make a new one. Thanks for the heads-up on the riser needed for the tool post. I also need to make another carriage stop - my lathe was missing one when I got it.
I thought about just eliminating the compound all together as it seem like the weak link. The riser is not totally necessary and can be removed if concerned about rigidity. There maybe that odd instance where turning the post more than what I could maybe needed. In that case I'm ready to go and don't need to make one before making whatever it is I'm working on! Is your compound mount area also chewed from the lantern post? No carriage stop here as well. I don't know what the factory one looked like.
My guess is that the “record grooves” are due to heat tracks. If you could look at that with an infrared camera, up close and while the piece is being cut, I believe you would see that that is indeed the cause. For sharper contrast, lower the temperature of the blank to about ten degrees below the ambient room temperature before you begin.
Might not be the right way, but if it works. Sometimes good enough is good enough. Surface finish, nose radius vs feed, jib in the compound, jib in cross slide, one or all. Could be the mystery metal... You're doing a good job, keep at it.
Awesome restoration 👍🏻 One little tip for machining: You should always make sure that your tool isn’t touching the workpiece when you turn off the machine. Otherwise you might damage the tool.
First of all there is nothing wrong with using a bolt, I actually keep some modified for those kind of jobs like making a spacer like you did. I also noticed that your import tool block has the same problem as mine, the locked position of the handle is not correct, it makes loading boring bars a pain. I actually repositioned my handle position and machined a plug for it. Lathe looks to be working well
Mainly It's your cutting tool that is causing the groves, you don't have the proper flat or reliefs ground into your tool. Upgrade to carbide tip tools and you'll get a mirror finish every time as long as you center your tip to the center of the diameter and the rest of your setup is proper, which you have a bunch of issues with that is all going to contribute to your finish and accuracy, tolerance and repeatability. IE, Jaw torque on your part (chuck key), your T-slot should be milled down at least another .02-.50 so that when your tool stock is clamped down nice and tight, the top of the T-Slot is well beneath the "way surface" of the compound that the stock clamps down to. I know you said you went .10 under but you didn't harden the T-Slot and when under heat and tension, don't kid yourself, it's going to give a few thousand depending on your material hardness, speed & feed and amount of material your taking off per pass and it going to be prone the chatter/flex, lock down your carriage so the compound is firm and fixed, cutting oil or lube can go a long way too. Each of these things all can add a couple of thousands here and there and before you know you, your in the business of producing 1970's phonograph records. It's all about the set up which I know you acknowledged you hadn't set up yet for yet. Also, mess with your speeds and feeds depending on your material, (reference your machinist guild under the speed and feed section for some really good general ranges to start with, then dial in the tweaking to compensate for material and atmospheric temperature, humidity variations, (but that's typically for when trying to hold tenth's, which is gonna be a real challenge on that machine unless your an expert level Class A tool and die maker and even then repeatability is all one off and really can't be 'setup' into the machine) Great job on the restore, real craftsmanship stuff. VERY impressive stuff, I watch all your videos many times over. I can't get enough, lol Are you for hire on a larger machine (Vertical Miller/boring machine, 15,000 lb)
Steve thanks for the well thought out comment. I have sorted out my tooling issues for the most part. No issues with the tool post T-Slot so far. New tool post on the way so I may re-visit that. What, where, working?
It’s always the chicken or the egg with lathes. You need to make a tool for it, but you need that tool to make the other tool first when it comes to tool posts. BTW, I experienced the same “record” finish recently. My cross slide gib was slightly loose and locking the compound slide when not using makes it go away.
I had the same problem with mounting my mill vise. No T-nuts, had to figure out how to temp mount my small vise so that I could make T-nuts to mount the larger vise. If it's not one thing, it's another!
I've just got a little cheap Chinese lathe. But on the surface finish what I found is stead of having a sharp point I would actually round the end and then hohn the top of this high speed Steel. For me The record looking finish was from a sharp Point like a needle on a record player EDIT: well crap I just watch episode 11 about your tool bit not having enough radius LOL glad you got it figured out.
You may have your reasons for doing so but wearing any kind of gloves while operating a metal lathe is a grave safety issue. A burr can easily catch on the fabric and pull your hand into the work or chuck.
Your concentric rings are the result of using a sharp point on your tool bit..put a bit more radius on the end of your HSS tool..and from the Reeves drive. Shrug...Id not worry about it personally..but...if you are one of the Cosmetic types (Grin)..sand it when you are done. Or put it on a shaper...which is what Id have done from the first. I love shapers and the finish they will give you...
Try that boring bar (choked up close to the TP) with the carbide insert as a face tool and see if it changes the finish...not sure if it's the video or actual speed, but it looks fast for HSS...but also might be a cross slide finish issue as another gent mentioned?
Sped up video. Maybe to fast but it seemed to improve with more rpm to a point. I think it is my tool bit grinding to blame. I will try carbide and see if it goes away. Thanks
I think your finish is a combination of speeds, feeds and tool geometry. Those tools didn't look to great. Going faster often makes a much nicer finish, especially with carbide. You may want to drill a hole left and right on the T nut so you can move the toolpost closer to the edge of the compound. Personally, I'd have made the T nut only as wide as the toolpost, though you can always change that if you so choose.
Not sure on your machining background but anything your are drilling on a lathe would centre drill and drill out to a close size before facing less pressure on the tool your edge lasts longer the lines on your face can be a few factors speed and feed would have it a lot faster rpm for facing and your feed should almost double from your turning feed I always go less then double same with the chips can get stuck behind your cutting edge scratching your finish vibration can also play its part milling 2 sided cutters used for drilling milling closed slots end end mills 4 sides cutters should be used for side cutting can use them for facing but would recommend a large round cutter but I thought that you where just using what you had which is fair enough Tip of the day when you need to space something form your chuck jaws I use magnets you don’t have to remove once it’s set and gives you something to push against when facing less vibration also holds plate in while you tighten up your Chuck
Carbide cutting tools work so much better. Put the HS steel on the shelf and buy some carbide cutting bits and a holder. EDIT: I see you have done that 🙂 Oh and please take the gloves off. BTW wonderful restoration 👍
Do not wear gloves when turning, drilling, or grinding, I have seen a man get his glove cought by a spinning drill, it tore the glove of his hand but it took the tips of his fingers with it, but the finger tips were still connected by tendons, as the drill was spinning it pulled out about half a meter of tendons from his arm and it wound around the drill, his fingers could not be saved. I also saw a man get killed by a lathe, his long sleeve got caught in the spinning chuck, it wound his whole body around the large spinning work pice banging his head and libs on the ways crushing every bit to mush, there was nothing left of him, just a pool of blood and mushy flesh. This is number one rule, one small mistake and you can get seriously injured or even killed if working on a bigger machine.
@@DolezalPetr well those are the machines my new job has, I will take your advice to never wear them with spinning machinery, I know of one person who lost his thumb on a cheap drill press because of gloves
As for the " record" appearance, keep in mind that your sfpm is changing by a fairly large amount from the outside to the inside. There can be several other factors such as sharpness or rigidity but the changing feed rate your pretty much stuck with
See my video on the multifix tool post system. I love it but it's expensive. AXA will work with the original compound and a .250 spacer. I was having some flex issues with that setup (just using what I have already). BXA should work direct as they are for 10" to 15" swing lathes and can be found cheaper than multifix. BXA also should have no flexing issues. Whatever you get pay attention to the opening size in the holders and what tooling shank size you intend to use.
Nice job, I'm working my way through your vids but at some point in the future you're going to regret wearing gloves anywhere near a lathe. Believe me !
I see you wearing what appear to be nice breathable light work gloves. I am just getting into mechanic work and would love some recommendations on well fitting gloves that can take some grease and don't make my hands sweaty.
Good luck! For grease/oil and general non abusive type work nitrile disposable gloves are the best but your hands will sweat. Some brands are better than others about the sweating. I have found black ones are the best for that to me but I'm working inside. Outside may not be so good. The black breathable gloves are for electronics techs. Great for woodworking! Ok for general not to oily or greasy work and they are washable/reusable. Their are heavier versions (more coating) of these gloves available at Lowe's but I have not tried them. I can't leave out Mechanics brand gloves as they are great for hard/rough work that does require to much dexterity. Buy the thin ones at Walmart for $15. The heavy one are nice but double the price and hot. Hope that helps.
I'm pretty sure my motor needs a new bearing - can you tell me what to order for the rear bearing? It's a 2 HP model. I'm not very familiar with bearings, all I've done in the past is building stuff out of skateboard bearings.
Do you have a video about setting up feeds and speeds and operating the auto feed on this lathe? I have a 10inch rockwell and just got it powered up and trying get used to running it. Seems to run a little loud. Thanks!
@@BurtonsAttic No I meant it looked like you spliced some frames in, like around 11:19. But now I'm thinking it was just from when you maybe cleaned a bird's nest off the work you were facing and the one or two frames where that happened were so different than the surrounding frames.
The Rockwell is 1550 rpm @ 60 Hz. The SB is around 1200 rpm. What I really meant was that the Rockwell is just a better machine and can handle cutting at higher rpm's. The SB is just slow......every time that I have tried to do something fast with it (except with wood!) I have some sort of issue. It's good for small stuff. The Rockwell is just more stable. Happy with it so far!
Burton's Attic ok. I was gonna say if it was a BXA you would be better suited with an AXA. Do you ever use any cutting fluid when milling or turning ? CRC makes a good cutting fluid and if you want sulphur based cutting fluid use Ridgid dark thread cutting oil or I personally use Oatey dark thread cutting oil. The name implies it’s only for threading but that’s not the case. It’s used for all turning and milling of steel.
Gloves, sandpaper and a spinning lathe chuck .....what could possibly go wrong ? I'm by no means the safety police but remember that commercial with a kid smoking pot and the dad screaming at him and the kid replied " I LEARNED IT FROM YOU DAD " .....yeah that !
You need to to go to some tool auctions; or contact Abom79 who just scored a massive truckload of tooling a few days ago at unbelievably low cost. Send him your wishlist and a few hundred bucks and you'll probably get 75% of the basic tooling you need.
Just watched this whole series. Makes me want an old lathe more than ever. Someday....
thank you for noy blaring crappy music whilst you work..i like the machines to make the music..and i also enjoy your occasional narration..great videoing and editing...
Great to see the first chips on the old lathe. The mill and now the two lathes it's like a dream machine shop. Take care
I believe the reason the faceing cut looked like a record player is because your cutting tool is pointed to a sharp point , a small radius at the tip of the cutting tool should take care of most of that. at least that is what I'ed try !
thanks for the videos that Rockwell seams to be a really nice lathe ! and keep the Reeves drive and dispense with the electronic speed control they have no guts where you need it ! (at the bottom end) ...only my opinion of course ! ...Bob......
I like this series, nice job.
After watching your videos I’m on the hunt for a Rockwell mill and lathe. I’m sure it will be tough to find one with a taper turning attachment ! Awesome find and amazing work. Your videos are very well put together and you easily keep my attention. I don’t just fast forward through the video, I watch it from the beginning to the end.
Really enjoying this series. I am not sure if this is correct but using the hand feed it is hard to keep the feed rate steady ,and this maybe what causing the record looking grooves ?. I think it would allow the tool to stay in one place a bit longer causing that to look the way it does. I am no pro ,so if I am wrong then people out there who are ,please correct my thought's on this.
All my best.
Bobby
Nice! Congrats on the first chips, and a practical one at that!
I'm patiently waiting for you to remove the "Rust" on the Chuck surface! Yes, Yes!
I did! On the surface that counts...
one beautiful tool
We did not know about the tail stock scales being straight up and down or facing forward out towards the operator, always discovering something. Nice cutting work on the mill. We like the disk you made to overcome the height your tool post better then the short cut you shared of stacking the two pieces of stainless steel, looks to be really strong will watch it cut something great soon. Lance & Patrick.
Some tail stocks have an engraved line which denotes center height as well.
Had to do the same thing on my 11" Rockwell was a long time ago and you just reminded me of it. Nice Job learning for my lathe thanks
Finally, the first Chips.
Good Job.
I like how the steps fortuitously rest on the parallels when you're drilling it out. :)
I do hope to see a good bit more of this lathe, thanks, and well done..👍🏻
Two things on the "record" lines; 1. hone a slightly larger radius on your tool and 2 check the gibs in the cross slide/compound. Put a last word gauge in the tool post and a test piece (drill rod) in the chuck/tail stock. Grab the tool post by the top and see how much play is in the cross slide/compound at different parts of the bed.
That record looking finish on your part is due to very small imperfects in the cross-slide or sometimes the headstock. When the streaks are very long like that (the record look) then it means that there's some stuff going on with your cross-slide, you can fix it but its very difficult and expensive, and not worth it. The headstock problem would be a sort of ghostly version of this where some sections have streaks and others do not, again very hard to fix (and not your issue). This finish is less than a thou variation (when you can see it but can't feel it at all, and can sand it down pretty quickly, then that's less than a thou). TL: DR don't worry about it, it's just the finish. Awesome video!
Edit: oh also it may be because your tool is too sharp, sharp tools wear easier and deform easier, if you give that tool a small radius, one lick of the grinding wheel, and it will likely do better
I did sharpen and I thought that as well. That the cutter geometry is to sharp and the radius is not enough causing the bit to wear faster. I will try carbide and see if it goes away. Thanks!
Great video! I loved the beginning. I am so envious when I watch machining like this take place.
Thanks Matt!
I'm in pretty much the same place now - the quick change that I was given had a T plate cut for a SB and I need to make a new one. Thanks for the heads-up on the riser needed for the tool post.
I also need to make another carriage stop - my lathe was missing one when I got it.
I thought about just eliminating the compound all together as it seem like the weak link. The riser is not totally necessary and can be removed if concerned about rigidity. There maybe that odd instance where turning the post more than what I could maybe needed. In that case I'm ready to go and don't need to make one before making whatever it is I'm working on! Is your compound mount area also chewed from the lantern post? No carriage stop here as well. I don't know what the factory one looked like.
My guess is that the “record grooves” are due to heat tracks. If you could look at that with an infrared camera, up close and while the piece is being cut, I believe you would see that that is indeed the cause.
For sharper contrast, lower the temperature of the blank to about ten degrees below the ambient room temperature before you begin.
Might not be the right way, but if it works. Sometimes good enough is good enough. Surface finish, nose radius vs feed, jib in the compound, jib in cross slide, one or all. Could be the mystery metal...
You're doing a good job, keep at it.
On my Delta drill press, the Reeves Drive was quieter after I polished the inside of the pulley areas with some scotchbrite
Going there next!
I wonder how long it's been since that machine last made chips. Great job, hope you get a lot of use out of it. Thanks for posting
I wondered that also!
Great job!
Very good work!!
Awesome restoration 👍🏻 One little tip for machining: You should always make sure that your tool isn’t touching the workpiece when you turn off the machine. Otherwise you might damage the tool.
First of all there is nothing wrong with using a bolt, I actually keep some modified for those kind of jobs like making a spacer like you did. I also noticed that your import tool block has the same problem as mine, the locked position of the handle is not correct, it makes loading boring bars a pain. I actually repositioned my handle position and machined a plug for it. Lathe looks to be working well
Mainly It's your cutting tool that is causing the groves, you don't have the proper flat or reliefs ground into your tool. Upgrade to carbide tip tools and you'll get a mirror finish every time as long as you center your tip to the center of the diameter and the rest of your setup is proper, which you have a bunch of issues with that is all going to contribute to your finish and accuracy, tolerance and repeatability. IE, Jaw torque on your part (chuck key), your T-slot should be milled down at least another .02-.50 so that when your tool stock is clamped down nice and tight, the top of the T-Slot is well beneath the "way surface" of the compound that the stock clamps down to. I know you said you went .10 under but you didn't harden the T-Slot and when under heat and tension, don't kid yourself, it's going to give a few thousand depending on your material hardness, speed & feed and amount of material your taking off per pass and it going to be prone the chatter/flex, lock down your carriage so the compound is firm and fixed, cutting oil or lube can go a long way too.
Each of these things all can add a couple of thousands here and there and before you know you, your in the business of producing 1970's phonograph records. It's all about the set up which I know you acknowledged you hadn't set up yet for yet.
Also, mess with your speeds and feeds depending on your material, (reference your machinist guild under the speed and feed section for some really good general ranges to start with, then dial in the tweaking to compensate for material and atmospheric temperature, humidity variations, (but that's typically for when trying to hold tenth's, which is gonna be a real challenge on that machine unless your an expert level Class A tool and die maker and even then repeatability is all one off and really can't be 'setup' into the machine)
Great job on the restore, real craftsmanship stuff. VERY impressive stuff, I watch all your videos many times over. I can't get enough, lol
Are you for hire on a larger machine (Vertical Miller/boring machine, 15,000 lb)
Steve thanks for the well thought out comment. I have sorted out my tooling issues for the most part. No issues with the tool post T-Slot so far. New tool post on the way so I may re-visit that. What, where, working?
Where there’s a will, there’s a way! 👍🏼
It’s always the chicken or the egg with lathes. You need to make a tool for it, but you need that tool to make the other tool first when it comes to tool posts. BTW, I experienced the same “record” finish recently. My cross slide gib was slightly loose and locking the compound slide when not using makes it go away.
I had the same problem with mounting my mill vise. No T-nuts, had to figure out how to temp mount my small vise so that I could make T-nuts to mount the larger vise. If it's not one thing, it's another!
great job
Love the video! Great content as always!
I've just got a little cheap Chinese lathe. But on the surface finish what I found is stead of having a sharp point I would actually round the end and then hohn the top of this high speed Steel. For me The record looking finish was from a sharp Point like a needle on a record player
EDIT: well crap I just watch episode 11 about your tool bit not having enough radius LOL glad you got it figured out.
You may have your reasons for doing so but wearing any kind of gloves while operating a metal lathe is a grave safety issue. A burr can easily catch on the fabric and pull your hand into the work or chuck.
Nazi seems to be the catch word these days.
Your concentric rings are the result of using a sharp point on your tool bit..put a bit more radius on the end of your HSS tool..and from the Reeves drive. Shrug...Id not worry about it personally..but...if you are one of the Cosmetic types (Grin)..sand it when you are done. Or put it on a shaper...which is what Id have done from the first. I love shapers and the finish they will give you...
Try that boring bar (choked up close to the TP) with the carbide insert as a face tool and see if it changes the finish...not sure if it's the video or actual speed, but it looks fast for HSS...but also might be a cross slide finish issue as another gent mentioned?
Sped up video. Maybe to fast but it seemed to improve with more rpm to a point. I think it is my tool bit grinding to blame. I will try carbide and see if it goes away. Thanks
Maybe the gibs are needing a fine tune...... all of them , please lose the gloves 😉
I think your finish is a combination of speeds, feeds and tool geometry. Those tools didn't look to great. Going faster often makes a much nicer finish, especially with carbide.
You may want to drill a hole left and right on the T nut so you can move the toolpost closer to the edge of the compound. Personally, I'd have made the T nut only as wide as the toolpost, though you can always change that if you so choose.
Nice work
Not sure on your machining background but anything your are drilling on a lathe would centre drill and drill out to a close size before facing less pressure on the tool your edge lasts longer the lines on your face can be a few factors speed and feed would have it a lot faster rpm for facing and your feed should almost double from your turning feed I always go less then double same with the chips can get stuck behind your cutting edge scratching your finish vibration can also play its part
milling 2 sided cutters used for drilling milling closed slots end end mills 4 sides cutters should be used for side cutting can use them for facing but would recommend a large round cutter but I thought that you where just using what you had which is fair enough
Tip of the day when you need to space something form your chuck jaws I use magnets you don’t have to remove once it’s set and gives you something to push against when facing less vibration also holds plate in while you tighten up your Chuck
Carbide cutting tools work so much better. Put the HS steel on the shelf and buy some carbide cutting bits and a holder. EDIT: I see you have done that 🙂
Oh and please take the gloves off.
BTW wonderful restoration 👍
Whats your take on using gloves anywhere near spinning or moving machinery? I was always taught not to wear them.
Do not wear gloves when turning, drilling, or grinding, I have seen a man get his glove cought by a spinning drill, it tore the glove of his hand but it took the tips of his fingers with it, but the finger tips were still connected by tendons, as the drill was spinning it pulled out about half a meter of tendons from his arm and it wound around the drill, his fingers could not be saved. I also saw a man get killed by a lathe, his long sleeve got caught in the spinning chuck, it wound his whole body around the large spinning work pice banging his head and libs on the ways crushing every bit to mush, there was nothing left of him, just a pool of blood and mushy flesh.
This is number one rule, one small mistake and you can get seriously injured or even killed if working on a bigger machine.
@@DolezalPetr well those are the machines my new job has, I will take your advice to never wear them with spinning machinery, I know of one person who lost his thumb on a cheap drill press because of gloves
love that center gauge i have a level thats like that
Cool, does it have a makers mark? It's Standard Tool Co? I like that mine is pinned together with rivets.
@@BurtonsAttic goodel prat I believe
Wow that depth gage you used for the t nut is so ornate does it have a makers mark or brand!?
Standard tool co chaplin patent square.
This Lathe has a need,
A need for speed!
I wonder who will understand my comment.
A good lathe!
As for the " record" appearance, keep in mind that your sfpm is changing by a fairly large amount from the outside to the inside. There can be several other factors such as sharpness or rigidity but the changing feed rate your pretty much stuck with
Stop with the rock resto immediately and weave your magic on that beautiful adjustable square please. Peter.
Oh no, not touching that!
Just someting about end mills makes go funny lol
Our robotics team just got this lathe but it didn't come with a tool post. What tool post do you have or recommend? What size (AXA vs BXA or whatever)
See my video on the multifix tool post system. I love it but it's expensive. AXA will work with the original compound and a .250 spacer. I was having some flex issues with that setup (just using what I have already). BXA should work direct as they are for 10" to 15" swing lathes and can be found cheaper than multifix. BXA also should have no flexing issues. Whatever you get pay attention to the opening size in the holders and what tooling shank size you intend to use.
Nice job, I'm working my way through your vids but at some point in the future you're going to regret wearing gloves anywhere near a lathe. Believe me !
no gloves whilst lathing.. not a lesson i would want to learn the hard way
I see you wearing what appear to be nice breathable light work gloves. I am just getting into mechanic work and would love some recommendations on well fitting gloves that can take some grease and don't make my hands sweaty.
Good luck! For grease/oil and general non abusive type work nitrile disposable gloves are the best but your hands will sweat. Some brands are better than others about the sweating. I have found black ones are the best for that to me but I'm working inside. Outside may not be so good. The black breathable gloves are for electronics techs. Great for woodworking! Ok for general not to oily or greasy work and they are washable/reusable. Their are heavier versions (more coating) of these gloves available at Lowe's but I have not tried them. I can't leave out Mechanics brand gloves as they are great for hard/rough work that does require to much dexterity. Buy the thin ones at Walmart for $15. The heavy one are nice but double the price and hot. Hope that helps.
Sure did, thanks!
@@Angel_the_Bunny Safety First!
Yeah when you're turning that on your final cut slow it down and you'll see those part looks like a record disappear
Any way that works is the right way!
If it looks straight it is straight!
your work inspire me to make one, are you use mild steel or high carbon? since I have mild steel around will it work?
I'm pretty sure my motor needs a new bearing - can you tell me what to order for the rear bearing? It's a 2 HP model. I'm not very familiar with bearings, all I've done in the past is building stuff out of skateboard bearings.
John the rear bearing "should" be 6203. Make sure you get one that is C3 tolerance. Easy to pull the rear end bell off in a few minutes to verify.
Do you have a video about setting up feeds and speeds and operating the auto feed on this lathe? I have a 10inch rockwell and just got it powered up and trying get used to running it. Seems to run a little loud. Thanks!
I don't James. Just run her slow until you figure it out, oh and check that noise before you run it too much!
Ok, you HAVE to tell me about the frames you inserted during the facing sequence. Fight Club or The Young Ones?
I assume that you mean the clouds? I shot it.......
@@BurtonsAttic No I meant it looked like you spliced some frames in, like around 11:19. But now I'm thinking it was just from when you maybe cleaned a bird's nest off the work you were facing and the one or two frames where that happened were so different than the surrounding frames.
How do I get my portaband to cut that fast?
Man I wish! What's really funny is even sped up it's still slowish!
I'm pretty sure you know what you are doing. But... Please for God's sake don't use gloves while working on a lathe. Anyway I like your videos 😉
The record thing could be caused by attack angle of the cutter
Looks like your cross feed was moving to fast and caused the ridges
Another great episode! What's the top speed of this lathe vs your SB?
The Rockwell is 1550 rpm @ 60 Hz. The SB is around 1200 rpm. What I really meant was that the Rockwell is just a better machine and can handle cutting at higher rpm's. The SB is just slow......every time that I have tried to do something fast with it (except with wood!) I have some sort of issue. It's good for small stuff. The Rockwell is just more stable. Happy with it so far!
@@BurtonsAttic What model SB???
9A
Nice little machine (I loved my 9B), but I can see why you are looking forward to the new capabilities.
que lindo .
Your long T-Slot under the tool post is too high, it needs to be a little lower so it will lock up when you tighten the post.
It is .010" lower than the compound.
Feed rate as you are going in needs to increase, and a radis of 1/32 will help.
Thanks Alfred!
What size is the QCTP ? AXA or BXA ?
AXA
Burton's Attic ok. I was gonna say if it was a BXA you would be better suited with an AXA. Do you ever use any cutting fluid when milling or turning ? CRC makes a good cutting fluid and if you want sulphur based cutting fluid use Ridgid dark thread cutting oil or I personally use Oatey dark thread cutting oil. The name implies it’s only for threading but that’s not the case. It’s used for all turning and milling of steel.
Maybe fasten your slide when facing.
It was
Gloves, sandpaper and a spinning lathe chuck .....what could possibly go wrong ? I'm by no means the safety police but remember that commercial with a kid smoking pot and the dad screaming at him and the kid replied " I LEARNED IT FROM YOU DAD " .....yeah that !
You need to to go to some tool auctions; or contact Abom79 who just scored a massive truckload of tooling a few days ago at unbelievably low cost. Send him your wishlist and a few hundred bucks and you'll probably get 75% of the basic tooling you need.
wow noise alert .....
Time stamp?