The best thing for keeping chemicals airtight are wine boxes, they are totally airtight, can easily be reused, piled up two or three high and labels stay on. I don’t know if you watch Jess Hobbs's videos, but her lab uses XTOL but I don’t know if it is common developer for labs in Canada and the USA. If you are not watching her videos I highly recommend them, she’s only made three so far but very good indeed. If Im not doing anything with the film but play around with it and I’m using a developer in an accordion bottle I will often use them beyond the shelf life, just add some time to the development. Another great video, I’ve not seen one of yours yet that I haven’t got something out of.
I’m surprised you’ve never tried it before. I started using it 20+ years ago when I could buy it in 1 liter bags. I was shooting a lot in NYC, and it really suited the shots taken there and around CT.
It's become my favourite developer and hard to come away from. I've had nothing but good results from it. I'm trying Microphen and Perceptol at the moment as well as D96 for motion picture B&W films.
I love xtol I use it stock. I mix up the 5 litres stock then separate them in to 5 x 1 litre bottles. I then use each 1 litre bottle of stock when developing and get 15 rolls from each 1 litre stock. Going by the instructions in the Kodak PDF 0-5 rolls in stock normal development, 5-10 rolls in stock add 15% to time, 10-15 rolls in stock 30% extra time. I see the same results from roll 1 to roll 15 of each 1 litre bottle. Out of the total of the 5 litres I get 5 x 15 = 75 rolls :)
Super excited to see how you like XTOL! I had fantastic results with it and TMAX P3200 but ended up with mixed results with FP4 (not sure if it was FP4, XTOL, or the combination). I haven't mixed up another batch yet but would like to try it with Delta 100 and TMAX 100 to see out it fares, as well as Pancro 400 if I can get my hands on some sheets. HP5 + HC-110 is a brilliant combination that I really like but I haven't found my favorite combo for any other film yet.
:-D Crackin out take with the light :-D I've just found some xtol in my cupboard tonight (after buying some Ro9 on friday) Mixed the ro9 for tonight's dev fest because i couldn't be arsed to clean the bucket :-D
Iain Hamilton-Cummings Ha Ha! Ro9 is a good developer. I have a half bottle of rodinal. Looks like coffee! Still works a treat and is 6 months old! The ghost in my darkroom pushed the light over. He likes to play tricks on me !
Mate, you should do this outside, because breathing in the micro dust is very unhealthy. At least that's what I learned about messing with powder stuff. I mix xtol myself, I really like it, but I always mix it outside in a 5l water canister (can be usually bought in a normal supermarket). I find this practical because I can close the lid and shake it gently to help dissolving. Distilled water ... yeah, that's the recommendation. I use tap water and it works just fine, never experienced any problems with it. But depends on the water quality, I think if you have decent drinking water quality it won't be a problem because there's so little iron, copper and stuff in it (IF there's something in it. Depends on your water pipes too).
That's why I held my breath! You're right though. That's why I added a lower third. Our water is pretty neat here also. Looking forward to using the mix. Cheers!
If you're trying to push film it's great. I like 1:3 dilution, as you get more life out of the developer and sharper images, but much prefer D-76. There's too much sulfite and it doesn't look good with t-grain films. Unfortunately it lacks personality. If I want more tonal range I would use pyro developer
I think your darkroom is haunted! One thing I will add - XTOL will last longer if you store it in dark containers, not white. White is OK if you store them in a completely dark cupboard. I use old motor oil containers obtained from my local recycler, washed out with thinners. I have one that holds 5 litres that I fitted a tap to. Works well.
Not so sure John. Ilford pack their developers in white bottles as do Fotospeed. I've never put a 6 month developer in a white bottle and a 6 month old bottle in a dark bottle head to head. But I get where you're coming from.
Great video Roger thanks. So is the mix ready to use neat or does it have to be mixed ie (stock), 1+1, 1+2, 1+3 etc when developing the negative?Forgive my ignorance as I’m relatively new to this. I’m generally using Ilford Films with Ilfosol 3
Mix it up as it says on the packet making 5 Lt, then bottle it in air tight container. I usually use 5 one ltr accordian bottles. That's your stock tomise neat or dilute but only dilute when you are ready to develop
Shoot Film Like a Boss No. I mix all of the powder into 2.5 liters instead of 5 liters. 5 is a lot of liquid to store and it dissolves just fine into 2.5. Just dilute further when you develop film.
What's the average shelf life of the mix if stored at room temp in an airtight, lightproof container? 5 liters is a lot of developer for me. I usually only shoot one or two rolls every month or so. I'd hate for this to go bad on me and not realize it until i go to develop the film and see that it ruined my shots
Hello. It's been two months since this video. What do you think about this product? I was looking for something to keep ready for use that is long lasting
It's just a good all round developer. Relatively cheap powder too making 5ltrs of stock. I usually use it 1+1. Stores for up to 6 months in air tight bottles. I use it probably 75% of the time.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss if you use it 1+1, do you use it as one-shot developer. I only have used Rodinal until now but I am now searching for smoother looking images.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you for your prompt answers. What do you consider slow/fast films? I use mostly Kodak Tmax 100, Delta 100 and their ISO 400 varients whatever I can get cheaper.
As I have said earlier - XTOL is a phantastic developer. I normally use as a one-shot developer in a 1:1 dilution. I use it for most of my films. Easy to make, inexpensive and with fine enough grain for what I want - what more can you ask. :-) My current favorite combo is XTOL & Ilford FP4. Never had any problems with it.
Pretty much, yes. I just mix my first four litres in an empty five litre canister (I have plenty of those floating around), put the lid on and shake it until dissolved. Then I add part B, top the canister up and keep shaking it until all is properly dissolved. Then I put them into one litre dark brown glass bottles and one of those accordion bottles. I take stock solution out of the accordion bottle only and refill it from one of the dark bottles when empty.
So far I have not had any ill effects from it. Obviously you have to be careful not to have it foam on you if you need to use it straight away after mixing. I am not shaking it *too* vigorously though (e.g. like you would shake a can of spray paint). I shake the canister from side to side a little and turn it over a couple of times. Just to have everything mixed thoroughly.
I've been using Ilfosol D-DX since I (re-)started, B&W development and want to try some different film developers so I just got a small bottle of Adonal (supposedly same as Rodinal) to give that a try. You seem to mostly use XTOL and I'm curious as to why and what else you have used. (Still working through your videos so perhaps there's some more info on your channel) What about D-76, do you like it? There's so many different develops currently on the market and without trying them all against different film stocks it's impossible to decide. For sure, buying 100ml Adonal is not the most economic way though ;) I haven't even gotten (re-)started on print developing yet - that'll open another bag of worms plus the expense of a 4"x5" enlarger :)
Hi Richard. Yes I have found XTOL to be a very good developer over the years and also cost effective for my channel with 5 litres mix. I use it for most of my films, however, there are times when I have changed to other developers for my results. Such as Ilford Microphone for faster speed films and Perceptol for slower speed films. Mainly for the grain. D-76 is a great developer. I find it produces more contrast and grain then XTOL and I have used it a few times. Mainly if I want a bit of grit to my street photography. Rodinal is one I always have on the shelf. I use that for some films such as Acros and also for stand developing. I have had a few issues of late with XTOL so I am now using a lot of Ilford ID-11, which is similar to D76. I think with developers it all depends on how choosy you want to be with your negatives. For everyday and all round shooting with many films you can't go wrong with D76, ID-11 or XTOL. Rodinal is another beast. I like it a lot but never for anything I want with fine grain!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks for that - very helpful. I'll order some of the ones you mentioned when I order more film to try and figure out their quirks. I moved to Bulgaria many years ago and it's impossible to get stuff here - online is the only option (fotoimpex). This probably isn't your cup of tea but did you ever try B&W reversal processing? My first attempt was a disaster but I'll try again ;) Great channel - always entertaining and down-to-earth.
This is incorrect mixing. There should not be 5 liters of water. The final volume with powder included should be 5 liters. That is why the instructions say after the powder has been dissolved "add water to bring final solution to 5 liters."
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes that is what you did but it is incorrect. You are using a bit too much water. I refer you to Kodak technical sheet J-109 on page 2 you find mixing instructions, take special note of step 4! Step 1: start with water aproximately 75% of final volume (older sheet J-108 and packaging specify 4 liters but). Step 2: Mix in powder A Step 3: Mix in powder B Now here comes step 4 where the very common confusion occurs, not only with xtol, but also for example D-76, Dektol and C41 press kits etc. I quote the XTol J-109 spec sheet verbatum: "4. Add water to bring the final solution to 2, 5, 25 or 50 liters" So in this case since this is a 5L pouch you should NOT add 1 liter, rather you should add X amount of water until the total volume including the powder reaches 5 liters. Since the powder takes up certain amount of volume you will need less water.(essentially the correct formula is 244 grams part A + 270 grams part B + X ml water =5L developer)
Sorry, forgot to mention. I really love your channel! So much great content! The time and effort you put into all the tests and comparisons is a very valuable resource and is much appreciated.
@@kristjank this is 2018. I've mixed many packets since and use a measuring jug. I start with 4 litres and after mixing in A and B powder I add one more litre to make 5. So you are saying use 3.75 litres initial volume? Pour in A & B and then make up to 5 litre?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss What I do is I take my 5L measuring jug. Put 4L of water in. Dissolve the powder. Now the level in my measuring jug is somewhere over the 4L mark since the powder adds volume. So, if I were to add 1L of water the final solution would go over 5 liters. I therefore just start adding water straight to the big measuring jug and stop adding water when I hit the 5 liter line, and then I have exactly 5 liters of xtol, no more, no less. This is how all powder chemistry I have come across is made up. The number of liters on the packaging is not saying what amount of water is to be used, it is saying what the final volume of chemistry you will get out of mixing together powder and water.
Thank you for making these videos. You are providing a lot of useful, practical tips.We appreciate all your hard work.
So nice of you
The best thing for keeping chemicals airtight are wine boxes, they are totally airtight, can easily be reused, piled up two or three high and labels stay on. I don’t know if you watch Jess Hobbs's videos, but her lab uses XTOL but I don’t know if it is common developer for labs in Canada and the USA. If you are not watching her videos I highly recommend them, she’s only made three so far but very good indeed. If Im not doing anything with the film but play around with it and I’m using a developer in an accordion bottle I will often use them beyond the shelf life, just add some time to the development. Another great video, I’ve not seen one of yours yet that I haven’t got something out of.
Damn you mentioned the wine boxes before! I should have remembered
I wish I drank lol
Ive been using this developer for over 2 years as Replenished, its fantastic, very economical, only 70ml per roll of film when used replenished.
Sorry this is a dumb question but what do you mean replenished?
XTOL is the most amazing developer known to man! I prefer it 1+1.
Nick Seaney I'm excited by the XTOL fan comments! I'm a XTOL Virgin
I recently developed a roll of 26 year old expired Tri-X and developed it in fresh XTOL and the results were detailed and sharp given its age.
So that film would have been far less sensitive. What rating did you give it?
Shoot Film Like a Boss I shot it at ISO 100
I’m surprised you’ve never tried it before. I started using it 20+ years ago when I could buy it in 1 liter bags. I was shooting a lot in NYC, and it really suited the shots taken there and around CT.
It's become my favourite developer and hard to come away from. I've had nothing but good results from it. I'm trying Microphen and Perceptol at the moment as well as D96 for motion picture B&W films.
Would love to see your take on the coffee developers that some folks use!
I've never tried it. Thanks Fredrick.
I love xtol I use it stock. I mix up the 5 litres stock then separate them in to 5 x 1 litre bottles. I then use each 1 litre bottle of stock when developing and get 15 rolls from each 1 litre stock. Going by the instructions in the Kodak PDF 0-5 rolls in stock normal development, 5-10 rolls in stock add 15% to time, 10-15 rolls in stock 30% extra time. I see the same results from roll 1 to roll 15 of each 1 litre bottle. Out of the total of the 5 litres I get 5 x 15 = 75 rolls :)
Cheers Matt. Yes I usually keep it in 1 ltr bottles too. Nice and air tight.
Super excited to see how you like XTOL! I had fantastic results with it and TMAX P3200 but ended up with mixed results with FP4 (not sure if it was FP4, XTOL, or the combination). I haven't mixed up another batch yet but would like to try it with Delta 100 and TMAX 100 to see out it fares, as well as Pancro 400 if I can get my hands on some sheets. HP5 + HC-110 is a brilliant combination that I really like but I haven't found my favorite combo for any other film yet.
I have some TMaxx 400 to try it with 😀
Xtol is the best Kodak developer made, perios
I had a couple of bad batches that put me off. But yes, very good developer.
:-D Crackin out take with the light :-D I've just found some xtol in my cupboard tonight (after buying some Ro9 on friday) Mixed the ro9 for tonight's dev fest because i couldn't be arsed to clean the bucket :-D
Iain Hamilton-Cummings Ha Ha! Ro9 is a good developer. I have a half bottle of rodinal. Looks like coffee! Still works a treat and is 6 months old! The ghost in my darkroom pushed the light over. He likes to play tricks on me !
Shoot Film Like a Boss You SO know that places like these are......... haunted 😳
Strange things happen!
crackin video as usual. must give a review of the developer
jdebultra I shall on my next shoot!
never tried that one ive always used LC29 good review tho and nice accordion bottle cheers for the watch mate
beau pfeiffer recordings £5 bottle! I think it's out of tune. Can't play a note on it!
lol funny bugger u might have to find an Italian bloke
Ha ha taking my channel to Venice just to confuse the musicians
Ha ha. Dressed as Elvis
Mate, you should do this outside, because breathing in the micro dust is very unhealthy. At least that's what I learned about messing with powder stuff. I mix xtol myself, I really like it, but I always mix it outside in a 5l water canister (can be usually bought in a normal supermarket). I find this practical because I can close the lid and shake it gently to help dissolving.
Distilled water ... yeah, that's the recommendation. I use tap water and it works just fine, never experienced any problems with it. But depends on the water quality, I think if you have decent drinking water quality it won't be a problem because there's so little iron, copper and stuff in it (IF there's something in it. Depends on your water pipes too).
btw xtol + delta100 is my favorite setup, using the 1:1 dilution
That's why I held my breath! You're right though. That's why I added a lower third. Our water is pretty neat here also. Looking forward to using the mix. Cheers!
YES! That's my combo for 4x5 and it's beautiful. I have an example here if you're interested but I'm sure you know since you use it: flic.kr/p/SrYvZJ
If you're trying to push film it's great. I like 1:3 dilution, as you get more life out of the developer and sharper images, but much prefer D-76. There's too much sulfite and it doesn't look good with t-grain films. Unfortunately it lacks personality. If I want more tonal range I would use pyro developer
Thanks for that!
I think your darkroom is haunted!
One thing I will add - XTOL will last longer if you store it in dark containers, not white. White is OK if you store them in a completely dark cupboard.
I use old motor oil containers obtained from my local recycler, washed out with thinners. I have one that holds 5 litres that I fitted a tap to. Works well.
Not so sure John. Ilford pack their developers in white bottles as do Fotospeed. I've never put a 6 month developer in a white bottle and a 6 month old bottle in a dark bottle head to head. But I get where you're coming from.
Great video Roger thanks. So is the mix ready to use neat or does it have to be mixed ie (stock), 1+1, 1+2, 1+3 etc when developing the negative?Forgive my ignorance as I’m relatively new to this. I’m generally using Ilford Films with Ilfosol 3
Mix it up as it says on the packet making 5 Lt, then bottle it in air tight container. I usually use 5 one ltr accordian bottles. That's your stock tomise neat or dilute but only dilute when you are ready to develop
I always mix it into 2.5 liters. stock solution lasts longer that way.
So you mix half the powder? I was thinking that but wasn't sure if the powder would go off once exposed to air?
Shoot Film Like a Boss No. I mix all of the powder into 2.5 liters instead of 5 liters. 5 is a lot of liquid to store and it dissolves just fine into 2.5. Just dilute further when you develop film.
Ahh, I see. So then you just dilute more when you develop.
Shoot Film Like a Boss exactly. More convenient that way for me.
What's the average shelf life of the mix if stored at room temp in an airtight, lightproof container? 5 liters is a lot of developer for me. I usually only shoot one or two rolls every month or so. I'd hate for this to go bad on me and not realize it until i go to develop the film and see that it ruined my shots
6 months I believe but since then I have had a few bad experiences with XTOL. Dodgy supplies. I great developer though.
nice
Hello. It's been two months since this video. What do you think about this product? I was looking for something to keep ready for use that is long lasting
I like it a lot. It used it all up within 8 weeks and have recently mixed another 5ltrs. I'm confident in its shelf life
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss is this a once shot developer or do you resuse it? If reused, what do you do to replenish it?
I use it as one shot. I've never replenished it. Kodak data sheet has replenish info Glen.
thanks for the info, I ordered some to give it a try.
I am new to xtol. How does it work? Any guidelines?
It's just a good all round developer. Relatively cheap powder too making 5ltrs of stock. I usually use it 1+1. Stores for up to 6 months in air tight bottles. I use it probably 75% of the time.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss if you use it 1+1, do you use it as one-shot developer. I only have used Rodinal until now but I am now searching for smoother looking images.
@@oliverlison yes that's right. I've never replenished it. Maybe I should
@@oliverlison Rodinal packs a punch. Try microphen for faster films and perceptol for slower films.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you for your prompt answers. What do you consider slow/fast films? I use mostly Kodak Tmax 100, Delta 100 and their ISO 400 varients whatever I can get cheaper.
As I have said earlier - XTOL is a phantastic developer. I normally use as a one-shot developer in a 1:1 dilution.
I use it for most of my films. Easy to make, inexpensive and with fine enough grain for what I want - what more can you ask. :-)
My current favorite combo is XTOL & Ilford FP4. Never had any problems with it.
Tim Berghoff I've got some FP4 so will try it out soon! Thanks Tim.
Is this how you mix your Powder Tim?
Pretty much, yes. I just mix my first four litres in an empty five litre canister (I have plenty of those floating around), put the lid on and shake it until dissolved. Then I add part B, top the canister up and keep shaking it until all is properly dissolved. Then I put them into one litre dark brown glass bottles and one of those accordion bottles. I take stock solution out of the accordion bottle only and refill it from one of the dark bottles when empty.
Does shaking it not mess the chemistry up? Like gotta be gentle with it?
So far I have not had any ill effects from it. Obviously you have to be careful not to have it foam on you if you need to use it straight away after mixing. I am not shaking it *too* vigorously though (e.g. like you would shake a can of spray paint). I shake the canister from side to side a little and turn it over a couple of times. Just to have everything mixed thoroughly.
I've been using Ilfosol D-DX since I (re-)started, B&W development and want to try some different film developers so I just got a small bottle of Adonal (supposedly same as Rodinal) to give that a try.
You seem to mostly use XTOL and I'm curious as to why and what else you have used. (Still working through your videos so perhaps there's some more info on your channel)
What about D-76, do you like it?
There's so many different develops currently on the market and without trying them all against different film stocks it's impossible to decide. For sure, buying 100ml Adonal is not the most economic way though ;)
I haven't even gotten (re-)started on print developing yet - that'll open another bag of worms plus the expense of a 4"x5" enlarger :)
Hi Richard. Yes I have found XTOL to be a very good developer over the years and also cost effective for my channel with 5 litres mix. I use it for most of my films, however, there are times when I have changed to other developers for my results. Such as Ilford Microphone for faster speed films and Perceptol for slower speed films. Mainly for the grain. D-76 is a great developer. I find it produces more contrast and grain then XTOL and I have used it a few times. Mainly if I want a bit of grit to my street photography. Rodinal is one I always have on the shelf. I use that for some films such as Acros and also for stand developing. I have had a few issues of late with XTOL so I am now using a lot of Ilford ID-11, which is similar to D76. I think with developers it all depends on how choosy you want to be with your negatives. For everyday and all round shooting with many films you can't go wrong with D76, ID-11 or XTOL. Rodinal is another beast. I like it a lot but never for anything I want with fine grain!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks for that - very helpful.
I'll order some of the ones you mentioned when I order more film to try and figure out their quirks.
I moved to Bulgaria many years ago and it's impossible to get stuff here - online is the only option (fotoimpex).
This probably isn't your cup of tea but did you ever try B&W reversal processing? My first attempt was a disaster but I'll try again ;)
Great channel - always entertaining and down-to-earth.
@@richardstollar4291 go for the D76 a good alrounder. You have to mix it as its powder. 3.8 litres it makes. Bottle it up air tight.
Safety mask filter?
4 litters of water plus 1 water plus the amount of the 2 parts of developer is a little more than 5 litters , is that ok ?
I only used 5 litres of water. As it said on the packet. Then I'll use 1part of that 5 litres to one part water when I develop my film
i have an idea , to bye a scale and masure amount for 1 liter and save the other for using later , so it last longer , what do you think ?
I did think that but wondered of the powder would go off after being exposed to air?
Room temperature is 25 degree Celsius? I stay in tropic area, room temperature here is almost 30 degree
Around 21° our normal room temp
Do you see a difference with distilled water?
Not really. But our tap water is quite good quality.
I wonder what the difference would be if I used my Hot Tub Water (Chlorine) Vs Distilled?! I may try that.
8:40🥲
😂
Maybe some gaff or paper tape on your jugs for labels? You're gonna run out room like that lol
omnesilere ha ha. Made me laugh , cheers.
little acetone wipe, gone
8:41 hahahah
This is incorrect mixing. There should not be 5 liters of water. The final volume with powder included should be 5 liters. That is why the instructions say after the powder has been dissolved "add water to bring final solution to 5 liters."
Mix part A with 4 Litres of water, then once dissolved add part B, then once dissolved add your last litre or water. Exactly what I showed.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes that is what you did but it is incorrect. You are using a bit too much water.
I refer you to Kodak technical sheet J-109 on page 2 you find mixing instructions, take special note of step 4!
Step 1: start with water aproximately 75% of final volume (older sheet J-108 and packaging specify 4 liters but). Step 2: Mix in powder A Step 3: Mix in powder B
Now here comes step 4 where the very common confusion occurs, not only with xtol, but also for example D-76, Dektol and C41 press kits etc.
I quote the XTol J-109 spec sheet verbatum:
"4. Add water to bring the final solution to 2, 5, 25 or 50 liters"
So in this case since this is a 5L pouch you should NOT add 1 liter, rather you should add X amount of water until the total volume including the powder reaches 5 liters.
Since the powder takes up certain amount of volume you will need less water.(essentially the correct formula is 244 grams part A + 270 grams part B + X ml water =5L developer)
Sorry, forgot to mention. I really love your channel! So much great content!
The time and effort you put into all the tests and comparisons is a very valuable resource and is much appreciated.
@@kristjank this is 2018. I've mixed many packets since and use a measuring jug. I start with 4 litres and after mixing in A and B powder I add one more litre to make 5. So you are saying use 3.75 litres initial volume? Pour in A & B and then make up to 5 litre?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss What I do is I take my 5L measuring jug. Put 4L of water in. Dissolve the powder. Now the level in my measuring jug is somewhere over the 4L mark since the powder adds volume. So, if I were to add 1L of water the final solution would go over 5 liters. I therefore just start adding water straight to the big measuring jug and stop adding water when I hit the 5 liter line, and then I have exactly 5 liters of xtol, no more, no less.
This is how all powder chemistry I have come across is made up. The number of liters on the packaging is not saying what amount of water is to be used, it is saying what the final volume of chemistry you will get out of mixing together powder and water.