How to make your hydraulic motorbike clutch lighter: 5 tips!︱Cross Training Enduro
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- www.crosstraini... Many riders are fine with their stock even if it's a heavy clutch, but in some cases a light clutch can be very cool - if you are doing a lot of slow technical riding with lots of clutch slipping, or you are an older rider with weak fingers. Here are five ways to get a lighter clutch. The clutch is just used for taking off and changing gears, right? We got the hang of that when learning to ride, but many of us don't move on from there. Clutch work is one of the main reasons why so many of the top extreme enduro riders like Graham Jarvis are former trials riders. The cheapest mod is $1 worth of washers with your stock clutch springs. Trials riders learn to use the clutch almost constantly for many of the advanced techniques, and these translate across to dirt riding, at both slow and fast speeds. "But I'm going to wear out my clutch!" was my response to all of this clutch slipping, but one, clutch plates are far tougher and more durable than you think, and two, they don't cost much anyway and are easy to replace. However many of us rarely ride like that so it can pay to dabble with reducing the spring strength if you have a heavy clutch. I would estimate the clutch as being around 20% lighter with 2mm worth of washers. At around US$280 the Clake One light clutch stores energy when you release the clutch in order to make pulling it in much easier. Expensive? Shit yes but if you regard this as a long term investment to swap from bike to bike then it is a great option and what I've been using for several years now. You can adjust it to make the clutch up to 75% lighter. And it doesn't use leverage to do this, so you still have the same engagement and disengagement points as your stock clutch. Try a master cylinder with a larger diameter. A typical case here is the Beta RR350 Race model came out with a larger master cylinder compared to all the other models, and this US$60 part can reduce your clutch pull by about 10%. A third lighter clutch option is if your bike has six clutch springs, try removing two of them... a popular mod for KTMs. And of course check for clutch slipping under full load and high revs. Please note though, I've never tried this o can't guarantee you might not run into issues. But searching all the forums I haven't seen any negative reports from this mod. Option five for a lighter clutch? The Midwest lever uses extra leverage to make your clutch around 30% lighter. This means you do have to pull your lever further in to full disengage the clutch - some guys like this as it gives you extra control over the clutch - a small number of riders don't like this. I've been experimenting with the Midwest lever and the extra springs with excellent results so far. The Midwest lever is around US$80. See our review video for more information.
Remember to check to see if there's any slipping when you drop the clutch or accelerate hard. When they design their clutches, manufacturers have to make dirt bike clutch springs strong enough to prevent clutch slipping at full power in higher gears.
Back to basics - you should always one finger on the clutch. If you have a cable clutch, consider getting a hydraulic conversion kit such as the one available with the Clake One Light Clutch. You only want one finger on the clutch and the rest hanging on to those bars.
Find a slight uphill and ride in a straight line as slow and smoothly as possible - a great way to work on your balance and clutch control at the same time. Come to brief stops as well - it will become automatic to disengage the clutch and this will eventually mean less stalling in tough terrain. Try the basic exercises again, but holding the throttle steady and purely using the clutch to stop and go. Dropping the clutch is important for liftin the front wheel quickly and easily, but remember to cover that rear brake, something one of our gumby riders still hasn't mastered. The second option? Lighter clutch springs or even removing some if you have a heavy clutch. Compare your stock clutch springs with those from a smaller bike like the KTM 200EXC or even 125 enduro bikes. If the dimensions are correct but the springs are softer, try two of these, and even four if you don't get any clutch slipping at full revs. A cheap mod as you can get a full set of clutch springs for as little as $20.
And finally option six, the Rolls Royce treatment.
Music: www.playonloop.com
Music: soundimage.org
Music: audionautix.com/
Music by Tobu: tobu.io / tobuofficial
Music: www.bensound.c...
Music: soundimage.org
Music by Atch:
SoundCloud: bit.ly/AtchSou...
Spotify: bit.ly/AtchSpo...
Instagram: atchmusic
Hydraulic clutch? See this vid instead: czcams.com/video/41DyblFBfr8/video.html
INDEX
0:35 Using $1 of washers!
1:56 Lighter clutch springs
2:26 Removing two springs
2:54 Levers using extra leverage
3:30 Clake One Light clutch
FURTHER COMMENTS: If trying the washers, the later model Betas have six springs and you can only fit a 0.9mm washer in there before you start hitting the case. Seems it's a much tighter fit than the 4 spring models.
One of our guys, Jason, really struggles with hand issues. I don't think most of us need to go to these lengths, but if you have a medical condition or very weak fingers for some reason, here is his journey, and ultimate solution.
Clake One Light Clutch - Great bit of gear but expensive. Reduces the clutch pull the most of all the mods and is adjustable. It can be quite "notchy" and inconsistent in release especially when you wind the spring tension up to have a really light pull.
Then I tried the Mid-West lever - A lot cheaper but still expensive for what it is, but does reduce the pull quite signficantly but increases the stroke. I quite liked it at first but found I was constantly having to adjust the free play during our rides which became annoying. This was a bit strange as some guys in our group had no problem with the free play while some did.
Next I tried the washer mod - this involves putting some washers under the collars of the clutch springs to reduce the pre-tension on the clutch springs. Cheap and easy mod but I found the changes were only subtle. This alone wasn't anywhere near enough for me.
Next, I installed the slightly larger slave cyclinder from an earlier model Beta (I think it was from the 2013 350 RR??). Much like the washer mod, the change was only subtle and barely noticeable in my opinion. I left this on as I couldn't be bothered putting the old one back on.
Next tried the custom clutch springs from Two Rides (www.tworide.net/). Unfortunately I don't think he sells them anymore for 2016 models but these were great and highly recommended. They reduced the pull significantly without any slippage. I rode this for a while with the new slave and stock master cylinder.
Next I tried the springs for a 2018 Beta Crosstrainer just for the sake of it. The 2018 onwards have 6 springs compared to the earlier models so they are lighter. The results where simlar to the Two Rides springs but fractionally lighter. (please note that if you do this mod you also need the spring collars and screws for 2018 as well).
I rode this for a while again with the new slave and stock master cylinder but was still getting sore hand and cramps on some of our longer more technical rides, so I decided to give the clake another go but this time with the slave cyclinder and 2018 springs. This combination turned out to be favourite and what I currently ride with now.
I found with the lighter 2018 clucth springs I didn't need to wind up the clake spring tension as much and as such I was able to get a super light consistent one finger clutch feel of the clake without the notchiness.
So there you go.
wow, and that is with a hydraulic clutch? i just have a standard cable clutch, i want to learn technical riding, but it takes most of my fingers to pull the clutch in, so i dont have a good grip on my bike. i have just bought a new lever as the old one was one i had retrofitted from a push bike when the orginal snapped. hopefully this helps me, and getting it in a good position.
Most people aspire to get married, start a family, and make good money in life. I however, only aspire to wheelie like you
ME TOO
And me !!!
Are we just going to ignore that sick slide thingy at 0:18?
Tom Sharpe no I replayed that 4 times. That was seriously one of the coolest things I've seen on a dirtbike on flat ground.
No we should not
Very cool!
Great trick is to just simply remove 2 of the 6 springs on KTMs. I did this on a 2008 300 XCW and i have had zero issues. Super quick, and reduces the clutch pull by at least 25-30%. AWESOME. No clutch slippage at all, and I have pulled hard all the way through 5th gear. Highly recommend.
Would this work for a 2017 yz450?
I'm going to try that on my KTM 300. If my calculations are correct, removing 2 of the 6 springs should reduce the clutch pull by 33%
Do you think it does work for husky 2017 to?
I had to watch twice because your crazy bike control had me mesmerized the first time.
Dude! This helped so much. Wifey wasn’t digging her freerides clutch pull so I took two springs out. Went from 11 lbs of pull to 8! Game changer. Thanks for the video.
I've just done it to my Sherco 300SE... massive difference.
@@crosstrainingenduro Do you reinstall the bolts from the two springs?
I have a 2005 KTM 450 EXC, and the lever was very heavy. I am missing my left index finger, and my hand got tired quickly during every ride the first year I owned this bike. I watched this video (and others), and I pulled two clutch springs- made all the difference, no slipping. I tried lots of other tweaks and adjustments, but the clutch springs were the ticket. Thanks for the tip!
Why you missing a finger
ً ً freak accident, crushed my finger years ago
I remember a tool we had back in the 1970s was spring loaded hand exercise tool.
i think we still have the same thing here... the rectal penetrator but it's not sold in motorbike stores though.
6. Change the clutch slave cylinder. On Betas, XTs this works to reduce pull.
Great vid as always.
Love the idea of the washers! Might have to try that one.
I watched your review for the midwest clutch and felt that it was great bang for the buck. I popped one on my Beta 300 and it's great. I haven't felt the need to lighten it any further, but the washer tip you just talked about in this video is a good one and I might try that out too. I've moved my clutch lever in a bit and I can now operate the Midwest with just one finger without too much trouble. It's really good, I've learnt to feather the clutch a lot more while riding hills etc and it's helpful for x-training techniques. I think I should probably drop the $ on the Clake at some point, it does look the worth it. *thumbs up*
the clake is a step up again, but the midwest is brilliant for the cost :)
CROSS TRAINING ENDURO SKILLS hey what do you guys think of the Kawasaki kdx 200 do you think it’s a good bike or not really?!
@@ssupreme9740 It's a great bike.
If you have a cable clutch drill another hole for the cable a little closer to the pivot point but don't drill right through the other side. Take a small file or Grinder and cut out a notch for the cable to sit farther in to the pivot. This makes a big difference and if you have the tools it's free
I had an '82 Honda 750 inline with a total wrist killing clutch.....i bought the bike cheap as a daily rider so I didnt have to park my brand new GSXR limited edition to work. Well I LOVED the Honda EXCEPT the damn clutch just killed me! I pulled the entire clutch and actuation assembly apart and checked everything....I even polished the basket's light notching out laid the cable out which was brand new and it was slick as snot...the clutch rod was perfectly true...I replaced clutch springs thinking someone possibly beefed them in the past....NOTHING improved it....so then put lighter springs in and STILL a hand killer...I am certain had I kept on it i could have solved it somehow but someone came along that wanted the bike so I made money on her and moved on....I never forgot that however because it really frustrated me as I otherwise really like that bike! Might have even been the lower handlebars although there was absolutely no noticable binding in stock cable....IF I had persevered more I would have tried stockish high bars to see if things improved and if so then i might have sourced or fabricated a shorter cable....but the thing is I had put low bars on several other bikes with no issues like that so it made no sense....I honestly never thought about the washer trick pretty slick and simple! TODAY if I had a motorcycle with an unbearable clutch pull that I otherwise loved? Well then I would simply purchase and install an aftermarket hydraulic unit on her! done and DONE....the frustrating thing with weird problems on preowned bike is you never REALLY know what someone did before u got it....people will transplant parts from one model to another and/or parts counter dudes might sell one the wrong parts! Sometimes it is scary how many part number changes manufacturers go through for a part on a model....it is like WTF?? WHY?? Lol If the parts were truly identical then WHY did they substitute them???
Nice vid mate! When i watch your vids i always want to go ride!
One mod you didn't mention is a lighter weight hydraulic fluid, I went to a 2.5 weight fork oil on my older KTM 300 clutch and it made a noticeable difference in clutch pull, I also went to an Enduro Engineering needle bearing clutch lever which reduces friction at the lever pivot point.
the picture of the ktm clutch for number 3 is a DDS clutch. It uses a diaphragm instead of clutch springs. The diaphragm needs to be set to the correct level of deflection as the clutch wears.
Great video, I love these types of real tips.
That washer trick is my favorite trick, you can tell if you did too much right off the bat if you can spread the clutch apart by hand before installing the clover. It should still be tight with no space otherwise it will just slip and you will have to take the cover off to mess with it again. Takes allot of back and forth with different thicknesses and even different combinations on alternating springs but once you get it right it will be worth it. Also lean the bike on it's side so you don't have to drain the oil every time you mess with it. Also you can grind the washers down thinner to really dial it in.
What washers should you use? Don’t really feel like measuring and figuring it out.
Washer is a great idea never thought of that👍
That slick slidie thing at 0:18 ; made me laugh, that's how we ride
Apparently down under where there is a preponderance of 2 track you have to ride it on one wheel to compensate. When you come ride the good single track in Idaho, USA, that will be a skill that might not get a lot of use except when connecting trails. Love your site.
Plenty of single track in Australia dude.
Barry ... 2:33 is a DDS cluth (ktm's 2013-2016 i belive) which doest have individual springs for each bolt. Insted it uses disk spring (BELLEVILLE SPRING). The mod is even simplier for those DDS. There is a "spring ring" (black ring with many wholes) above "belleville spring" with cluth wear adjustemnt if needed (check it on google). Just change it's position betwen X,Y,Z for diffrent cluth feel, lighter pull and engagment point. Chris Birch descriebed it in his facebook page i think. Cheers
well on ktms if they are newer ones the clutch is already 1 finger pull light
Super helpful info, thank you.
"When I was your age, I had to tractor crawl up hill both ways while wheelieing!"
"Sure you did Grandpa"
"-___-"
2. hahah ill try this on my KTM 350 XCFW. will let you know one i recover from braking my collar bone surgery from a bad crash and a couple or bruised internal parts. damn i miss riding it, but whem im ready i will try this thanks for the tips.
I might be wrong but you need a smaller diameter piston in the master cylinder to ease the pull but the lever has to move further for same amount of fluid displacement.
supercool tech!!!
I love your videos please make more of them
more on the way, i should averaging one public vid and one supporters vid each week.... up to 296 supporters vids now from the past four years. 😊
Thank you sir!!!
Great info!!! Thanks!!
I did the midwest lever and kept trying to get it to engage further out with a longer screwq. i couldn't stand having to pull it in all the way. it way extremely awkward. i now have a clake on the way. I figure i will just transfer from bike to bike so now big deal. I used the same justification for my smartcarb and love the shit out of it
Get a side job as paver! That will make your digits strong enough to bent the clutch lever.
very cool thanks
washers?! brrrilliant! my head just exploded. gonna need a gumby bandage
Nice tricks Barry! Gonna try the washer thing. Cheers :)
cool... just remember your bike will probably self detonate after five minutes. mine always do when i try to modify them lol.
Thanks mate. I'll install an ejector seat too before testing the clutch :)
thank you so much
when your watching but looking to see if you can do this to your car.
i've got a 2017 corolla that has a tooooon of travel pedal feels like a truck's but when it finds the clutch it comes down hard and if u miss the paper thin sweet spot or don't rev the hell out of it its stall city. hate this car.
Magura hydraulic system is the way to go
Have it on my gasgas easy easy
Expensive though
as an ex trials rider, i used an verry effective but cheap trick for the stiff 80's bikes clutch : take out the little bushing (if there is one) out the lever, where the pivot bolt is, and eventualy take an smaler bolt, to mount an little rollerbearing instead (the type without an inner cage : M6 inner diam 10mm outher diam. 8 mm heith ; or if possible . M8x12 x 10), be sure to mount an pivot bolt without tread where the bearing runs and put teflon grease in, works great and costs 3 euro's ; With my montesa,we even modified the axle in the clutch case, I turned the axle off, and put also ther that type bearing, it was the an biggest difference b ut more work aczcams.com/video/ydZyFR-iDWc/video.html
Big Thumbs up!!
The washers trick will work on a beta 430 rr ?
time to try the washer trick on my klr 650
i'd suggest seeing if anyone has tried on a KLR before, gasper.... with all that low down grunt it could start to slip very quickly and I"m sure guys will have reported this on the forums. :)
thanks for the advice Barry i will check the forums first. (checking right now) And yeah people seem to be upgrading to stiffer springs, dont know why because i ride hard and i haven't have it slip on me yet, Maybe they dont like the soft sluggish engagement or something. I have to check on the doohickey and the mesh filter at the bottom so the covers must come off anyway so i just might extend the leaver on the clutch side to get a bit of extra leverage. Dont get me wrong i dont find the clutch hard at all, its my unproportional arm that is bothering me.
Gasper Erjavec so how did it turn out... I just installed 2 6mm washers on all 6 springs (2011 yz450f) but haven't rode it yet, my only concern is that it pushed the bolts out considerably so may rub against the case & the clutch may slip. The pull is slightly lighter but not worth shortening the life of the clutch... Thanks!
Btw, light clutch is also excellent if you use your dirtbike for riding around a big city. I mean, in 15 minutes, you go from 80km/h on the motorway, to 5 in a jam, to 60 on a surface street, to 0 at a stoplight (these are most demanding on the left hand), to 20 through the park, you shift a whole lot.
inserting washers on the spring bolt, is this applicable only to dry clutch or even to wet clutch?
And (if your bike is a bit older) and has a cable-operated clutch,.. just get a nice new cable before doing anything else.
Or just pop some spray for electrical conductivity in it, worked for me (something like WD would probably work as well).
True! But you have to re -grease the cable if you do that. The spray will wash the dirt off but also the grease. Afterwards use some sticky cable lube too. (cable's can even rust otherwise).
best to use a teflon clutch cable, way lighter and smoother, and kinda cheap
Sneeuw I'm used to harley cables, so i use graphite.
Do u have to have a hydraulic clutch for these or can u have cable
which two springs should i reducer or does it not matter?
Hi just started looking at washers how difficult can it be...just want an m6 washer right....but what diameter are they? If you remember. Great video btw
It's probably going to vary from bike to bike, Steve. I'd just google around for anyone who has done this to your particular model.
@@crosstrainingenduro thanks for the reply it's a 2019 200rr if anyone on here has done it?
Really enjoy the videos you put out there btw
So for the 2022 gasgas ex300 I should take a couple springs out or put some washers in?
I don't know. We just list the things you can do if you want to experiment.
I still don't understand why the washers are smaller than the inside diameter of the clutch springs? They'll just fall into the middle?
That's what you want, the washers makes the bolts stick out further when it´s tightened, compressing the springs less which makes the clutch lighter. If you use larger washers that sits over the spring or put washers on the outside side of the original washers it will compress the springs more making the clutch heavier.
Mate your riding 😎
You guys should challenge yourselves, buy an older bike for cheap and put it up against your bikes you ride nowadays, I had a mate who had an XR650 bored out to a 680 or 690 and challenged me against my 79 XL185 and I ended up smoking him around the track where we ride, I told him that a dirt bike can only use so much power depending on where / how you ride, A good lesson to learn for people who think power is everything. It would put the quote "It's not the bike, it's the rider" to the test. I'd love to see this happen :)
already did this a fair while back
Any of these work with a Rekluse clutch??
How do you adjust the clake one clutch tension? Does the force balance also act as the clutch tension adjustment?
Covered in our long term review video
@@crosstrainingenduro thank you. 🙏 Love the channel.
can anyone recommend a good hydraulic clutch coversion for wr450f (2016)
I need to replace my clutch in my crf450x! Should I just replace the cable clutch? Recluse? Or an after market hydraulic clutch? Thanks guys
I have a 450x that came with a rekluse. My clutch pull is really light. It is an old clutch though.
Does this helps popping clutch wheelies as well?
I doubt it.
clake would be awesome, but only for bikes with hydralic clutch :(
on the new ktms u never have to change anything to the clutch since its already suuuuuper light :D
I don't agree, I have a wrist injury so I am very sensitive to clutch pull and I've ridden 2016 to 2018 Ktm's in about 4 different models and the stock clutches were a good deal harder than the cable clutch on my yz250 and kx250f and yz450f. two of these bikes are modded to make the clutch lighter but even stock I'd say they are the same if not a tad lighter to pull. Only benefit I see is that it's self adjusting so no fiddling with it during a long ride/ race and you always no where it will release which is really nice.
What would you recommend for the drz400. Righteous Stunt Clutch is it just as good as the CLake One light clutch or it's based on a different principal. Or is the Clake better hands down. Thanks Mate Would really appreciate your feedback.
no idea allen, never even heard of the stunt clutch. :(
Would the Clake One light clutch work for the DRZ400 easy to install? Thanks MateCheck out this link for the stunt clutch pretty impressive. Let me know your thougthts you guys are the best channel out there. czcams.com/video/XFmmul6B5oI/video.html
never installed the clake on a DRZ so i wouldn't know allen, you could ring them though. can't comment on the stunt lever as i've never used it but looks like it would be very similar to the midwest lever we covered....
Can you remove just one clutch spring if you have five clutch springs?
I wouldn't. The resulting net force will no longer be applied down the center of the shaft. Will probably wear your clutch basket fingers more quickly or possibly even bind.
it is a good idea to remove two of four clutch springs?
I doubt it, I wasn't game to mention it in this vid or try it on our bikes.
@@crosstrainingenduroI thought so! I will certainly try the washer method. Great channel with great videos, thank you very much !!
For the Beta Cross Trainer (and some even use it on the RR)
www.tworide.net/product-page/beta-cross-trainer-ss-clutch-springs
Is it safe to cut the clutch springs?
no
has anyone tried the removal of two bolts and springs on ktm and run the bike ?
I did it on my CR250 96 and after 30 hours still feels soft
De Jan ok thanks i might give it a go
How does installing washers inside the clutch springs make for a lighter pull?
adding the washers increases the length of the spring therefore reducing the compression of the spring.
any comments about adding friction modifier to the clutch oil?
or become a mechanic like me. no clutch lever is too heavy baha. but seriously i wouldnt mess with clutch springs unless adding tension. one day you will be slipping the fuck out of your clutch and it will fade very quickly. levers are always a more reliable option
Luk3y Luke This tip made me laugh,your going to see clutches slip like a bitch.
I had some springs which, due to age most likely (or the cheap chinese brand they were), became practically impossible to squeeze the clutch. It got to the point where it took two full grown adults to squeeze it in. Took half the springs out, and it became easier again. I'll probably look at replacing all of them soon, or getting a new clutch.
Luk3y Luke i have a 02 yz250. The clutch hurts my hand after a while of riding. The cable and lever are good. I thought someone had put stiff springs in it. When i changed the basket i ordered and put in oem springs. It's the same. Any advice? I thought about putting 3 softer springs in them, but i don't know which springs or if it will cause it to start slipping.
The clake one light clutch is alot dearer than stated.
Is it worth the money?
They now have a single lever option that does both the clutch at the beginning of the pull and rear brake at the end of the pull.
Do you still think the double lever option is the best way to go?
Cheers and thanks in Advance.
Fellow tall freak of nature.
that other option has been around for ages, we did review it a few years back.
@@crosstrainingenduro
Like you said in the video it's an investment in better riding.
I definitely want one but haven't found your review comparison of what's better between the clake 2 and clake pro.
The clake website recommends the pro for trail riding.
●What clake clutch are you currently using and why?
Thank you for your videos and time
Cheers
Does Graham Garvis or Rienman change out thier clutch for the Clake one light clutch or do they always keep thier stock one.As well do they use the one finger pull clutches to free up the other 4 fingers or do they stay stock as well. Thanks Mate I just want to know what the pros are using...? So I can pick up good habits right from the start and leave the bad ones behind...
you'd have to ask around allen, but far as i hear they leave their bikes as stock as possible.
stock and only one finger in most cases, u wanna grab that handlebar
can you test out the rsc stunt clutch clever apparently they are really smooth
I can't see how anyone would need to make a hydraulic any easier to pull....
Yep, as mentioned in the vid Mike.... "many riders are fine with their stock even if it's a heavy clutch, but in some cases a light clutch can be very cool - if you are doing a lot of slow technical riding with lots of clutch slipping, or you are an older rider with weak fingers."
Hey Barry, what about a slipper clutch? Been considering one for my bike which doubles as a super motard. Any negatives for dirt application?
never used one jack, i don't even know what they do exactly..... :(
They actually came stock on my "05 GasGas450, the slipper actually slips under decel so that road bikes and supermoto bikes wouldn't rear wheel hop under hard decel going into turns, it was fun diving into a turn in the dirt at a higher speed and downshifting and just dump the clutch out, no hop and no high revs, just a very controlled turn with minimal effort. That being said, the Adler slipper on my GG only had 3 springs and it's the lightest clutch pull EVER, you could pull it all day long with your pinky finger, once a riding buddy came over and he pulled my clutch and asked why my clutch was unhooked because we were riding the next day, he didn't believe it was hooked up, on the downside, it lacked feel when slipping out of turns.
Metalefty3 was it hooked up to a hydro clutch or cable? I've got a cable clutch on my wr450 and while this sounds pretty tempting, I'm nervous to do the mod fearing I may not like the feel of it and it's some big $$$
It was a hydro clutch, I'm sure it helped with the light feel, It should still be incredibly light with a cable. Maybe go to a forum on a supermoto site and see what they say.
What a clutch lever it's at 1:42 ???
Midwest clutch lever I think, Ondrej....
Is that a jaw mounted camera holder
yep
I don't know enough about dirt to confirm this is viable but another leverage approach is the RSC clutch lever.
www.righteousstuntmetal.com/international/levers.html
Joseph Christopher i use it on my cr250 and its awesome
one'
Shit yea
"Expensive? Shit yeah"
I think my klx has a wet clutch so presumably need to drain the oil first.
I did tell you about my iq.
most bikes have wet clutches phil, but if you tilt them 45 degrees you probably won't lose any oil.
Has anyone had the chinese copy of the midwest lever?
Bummer. Has someone ripped off their design?!
@@crosstrainingenduro Yes its a classic China copy of the midwest lever. Cheaper Material, more blocky shape so they can mashine it more easyly, but its supposed to work fine for short usage. I wanted to test it before i buy the real deal becorse its 90€ here in germany
Maybe strengthen your fingers and hands up and go riding more than once a year. :P I've ridden bike 80cc up to 1300cc and never had a clutch be so heavy it was a pain to repeatedly pull it in. Even my XT250 and KDX 200 and my CRF450X have baby-strength clutch pulls! lol. Everyone I know who rides always goes for stiffer clutch springs, not lighter. I've always rebuilt my bikes with stiffer clutch springs (mostly because they are everywhere, and come with 99.99% of the clutch kits out there).
You clearly don't ride tech, I generally ride around 5-6 days a week and all my bikes have had at least one mod to make the clutch lighter, it's not about finger strength it's about control.