Even I'm not familiar with electronic devices but I'm happy with your simplicity of explanation makes me understand most of your conversations. Thank you for your efforts.
With that much coolant mixed with the oil, I would consider that a junk engine. I have personally had to many negative experiences fixing milk shake engines rod knocking a few weeks post repair. Drop a used engine in and move on with life.
If it's a good brand engine, and you have time, and it's your car, it worth the effort, otherwise it's a no no for rebuild, i like Mazda engines, i have a Mazda 6
You're such a great individual man, after years of watching your channel I'm not currently touching any cars but I still enjoy seeing you diagnose with care and attention to detail. Much love.
Short answer: NO. Modern cars have flimsy oil coolers that can easily transfer coolant to oil. This is an excellent exploratory video for young techs.. you WILL find yourself in situations where you find out WHAT is happening but you can't pinpoint WHY in that crummy hour of diag time. It's also very common to not have the truth from a customer (I overheated it) until AFTER initiating diagnosis. I know what my former service advisors would say to the customer but you worded it properly here and didn't push him down any courses of action.
No Monday morning quarterback, at 9:54 I've concluded I want to stop here and remove the spark plugs. Their condition would tell me where to go next. Ok I'm proceeding on watching to see what happens. I love this channel.
Agreed. I'd suggest a used lower mileage engine replacement. I sell it as a time to refresh the trans fluid, belts, thermostat and plan on relying on the car afterwards.
I had a failure in my brothers Chrysler 300 3.5 like 6 months back, he made it home and then noticed oil all over the driveway, the expansion tank had overflowed with the classic milkshake. I replaced the oil cooler and flushed gallons on gallons of water through the cooling system lol, been good ever since
Pressure test with the valve cover off. They like to crack the head by the timing chain if theyve been over heated. If you pressure test with the valve cover off youll see it spray out.
You could have a leak in the head gasket between a coolant passage and an oil return passage without having any problem with the seal around the combustion chamber. - sorry, commented before watching the whole thing. I do agree about the used engine being the best repair.
When you pressurized the dipstick bubbles showed up almost immediately, the leak must be in the upper portion of the engine. Being the block is half full seems it would take a little while for the pressure to force the water / oil out before the air could escape if the leak is lower. Considering the info on the cracked head issue I think you have the answer.
What I've done twice in the past in this situation, was to find a car exactly like mine, except it has a blown transmission.. and I buy the whole car for five hundred dollens and swap the engine and also swap out any other parts that my car needed... and then if you're lucky, you can sell the parts car and get your money back, or just go scrap it for a couple hundred. It was a lot of work, but I came out on top in both situations; granted, I did the work myself. Having to pay a mechanic to do all that work is not going to be a fun bill to look at- plus having to find the engine/ parts car. :( ........ That's why, working on your own stuff gives you so many more options........ Which is why I'm here: Picking every fruit from your brain that it can yield. lol.. and several other channels like this. It has been quite the harvest over these past few years.. appreciate ya
One thing I think you mentioned is that the customer saw a cloud of smoke. That indicates the leak has to be either in the combustion chamber (Which is not the case) or at the block right at the exhaust valves vicinity. Correct me if I'm wrong, a crack between an oil galley and a coolant passage would cause coolant and oil to mix, but not a cloud of smoke from the exhaust.
Correct. I believe the dramatic smoke on engine failure was from the excessively high oil level from all the coolant in the pan causing the crankshaft to churn oil into a cylinder.
Great video to be sure it’s a head gasket issue you can use a combustion gas tester that has a dye that changes color it looks for cracked heads etc you can do a compression test but the values can be good usually add test questions has like if there is bubbles in radiator is a cracked head or head gasket or coolant mixing in with oil but coolant mixing in oil which in this case is false
This is my situation right now. 2.3 ulev engine. Car was given to my lady from her brother ( he owed he a cheap car) Right out the gate the engine is losing coolant and oil . I ve gotten to know the mechanic community decently well and have gained some priceless knowledge. (Having never worked on a car) So check engine lights on oil lights on scan codes are heater circuit 1 & 2 o guess that o2 and air/fuel sensor. Also clutch control solenoid A. A cylinder looking solenoid on the transmission. The problem One day we are sitting in the car while it’s idling just watching out tablet and eating. And suddenly it stalls. From there on it’s been a crank no start. Before that it was having a shift issue around 3rd gear. So it stalls I check oil it’s empty. I take battery to autozone down the st to charge the battery and keep trying to start it. A neighbor comes out and swears it’s the timing belt. I get it towel home. No compression cylinders 234 and 1 is at 50 Put new spark plugs ( the incorrect ones were in there) I check spark has great spark very visible. Oil is all over the passenger side of the engine and very dirty. I learn about the leaky distributor. I learn about possible blown head gasket and possibly slipped timing belt so I go to autozone and grab a felpro head gasket kit that comes with a few decent items. I remove the head and belts. Belts are good coolant pump looks new so does distributor. The pistons and pin valves are carbon cooked. I completely clean the engine of oil and grim. I remove the intake manifold and it’s carbon cooked. I replace the gaskets of all three sides of the head also the throttle body and intake manifold body. I replace rubber gaskets on the thermostat, shift solenoid, cam seal, metal coolant tube that connect pump and thermostat. Also to the injectors. Engine is clean carbon gone. Pistons feel good and seem to hold fluid. Cylinder rings had calcium build up I washed and vacuum that out. Sprayed down all sensor plugs and starter and altinator and put them back right according to the Haynes Manuel specs I didn’t test the head for leaks but I po let’s it back on already. I may take it back off and do water test. Belts are back on too . Also I had and eld high voltage. Error. I watched videos on that. Right now I’m learning about the multimeter so I can get ready to test parts and sensors. I’ve got oil a filter an intake filter ready to go back in the engine. I can head the gas pump prime. Also when I went to put it in neutral because I have to keep moving the car around I have to keep a little pan in the engine bay to catch the fuel that comes out( sign of fuel but not a sign of goood pressure) I spray carb cleaner also in the throttle body before I started on the car but that didn’t get it to run either. I’m hoping I’m left with few to no problems here forward. I took the oil pan off also and cleaned it and re dressed it. I found a Spanish mechanic and read subtitles he showed with a glass table top how putting a lot and a little of maker or rtv worked when pressed. It’s was a neat video. Wish I could remember the name. I followed vtec channel who has a rebuild playlist and separate timing belt playlist. I’ve been preparing watching scan Dan and others but once I say the the first video of this channel which was when he was being sarcastic about ground I’ve just kept it mostly over here. I made a check list with his 4 +videos on crank no start like a boss etc. (crazy how these videos were years ago) Watching this video has me feeling defeated because others that have been asking me everyday am I almost done and now I see that it really might not start and work. However I can’t explain how how tiring, and fun and interesting this has been. I’ve been confident it’s going to work though and that I should expect some leaks and now I know how to find them and correct them right away. I just need to be ready to deal with Replacing rhe o2 sensor and a/f sensor and yeah etc.
Matt, I just started watching and was typing a comment that I love seeing the tow truck drop off the vehicle then you literally started talking about it. LOL. I like seeing it because it shows an aspect that you don't see in other automotive channels since they're in a shop or mobile or whatever. Yeah, it's just a tow truck but for some reason it's cool to see how it all goes down from the tow truck to the final repair. Maybe you should show the customer driving off with their fixed vehicle as well -LOL.
Gotta be aware of certain make model coolant oil heater/cooler assemblies. My findings have found some GM and Chrysler vehicles have those that can give false head gasket failure diagnosis. But im sure other brands may have same style oil coolers/ heaters as well.
Great video ! Thorough analysis ! You slayed it !! Good thought Re: Oil Cooler . On my personal car (2010 BMW 328) the all too common Oil Filter Housing / Oil Cooler failure occurred. This forged aluminum block contains the coolant passageway in very close proximity to the oil passage . 🐱 🎁 👊🏼 🔥🎯
To my surprise, in my 4.7L V8 chrysler engine I had some sealed coolant passages within the timing chain cover. Is it simple to pull off the oil pan and take a look to see if the coolant is coming from the crankcase or timing chain area? Probably will need to pressurize some dye in the coolant and then use a black light for this. You could also use a bore scope camera in the empty oil pan and/or spark plug holes. Also know that some brands have an oil cooling system as part of the radiator. So there is that too.
This car doesn’t have an oil cooler but good point about the cooling jackets in timing cover. That easily explains the coolant in the oil for sure however The only thing is I think it’s pretty hard to explain that much oil in the coolant in that case. I’ll check to see if this engine has that design though- great idea!!
Maybe it's not a common issue these days, but when I was a kid, I recall a couple of times when a mate blew a head gasket without any loss of combustion pressure - the gasket blowing between the coolant and oil passages only. Plenty of choc milkshake, but it still ran smooth. Wish I knew what caused the problem - overheating, maybe? - but it's been too many years now for detailed recollection.
Without getting through the whole video yet, I would think for sure there has to be damage, especially if the engine died. My first thought was intake gasket after seeing the video title.
We have a ton of generators with the GM v6 . They run with thermosyphon block heaters. Once the heater fails after years of being on, they drop the coolant right into the oil as the engine cools.
According to the class action, the Mazda SKYACTIV-G engine problems include "significant structural weakness at the cylinder head around the exhaust manifold, causing engine coolant leakage which results in the engine overheating and catastrophic engine failure." Doesn't this seem to match the problem???
All of my vehicles (x3) are Toyotas (oldies but goodies) and so unfortunately (or fortunately) my diag skills are wasting away since the only thing I've had to replace on them were aged suspension components or leaking hoses. I've learned the most about electrical and all sorts of diag when I owned a nasty Ford Expedition that I was working on every other weekend. I knew those wiring diagrams and electrical systems inside and out. That's the only thing I'm grateful for about owning a Ford. My dad always taught me don't buy a Ford, we're a Chevy family, I didn't listen and learned the hard way. I tell my teen kids we're a Toyota family. HAHA!
Very interesting diagnostic... I found it interesting that the air from pressurizing the crankcase made its way out of the radiator cap so quickly... I was wondering... from a diagnostics perspective... do you think there is any value in finding out if the air is making its way to the radiator via the upper or lower hose? What would this kind of information tell us? Very curious... - Thanks as always for your quality work and videos.
What you need is what surgeons use. A microendoscope to feed through the channels to see where the air is leaking from, but that would cost a bucked load aha
yes many many V engines have crossover pipes. this is a 4 cylinder so it doesn’t have one but also a crossover pipe leak won’t explain the oil in the coolant.
Did the owner of the car ever have it overheat. I know that some blocks with aluminum heads can warp and allow fluids to mix where they should not. I had a nephew that had iron block GM product with aluminum head that let the oil and coolant mix. Again this would be a best case for this engine
Oh and also I added Lucas to the gas tank and I’m not messing with anything else as far as treatment I’ve watched the nay say videos on those, And I saw a video today of a guy who went to help his friend on the same car and the videos skips from day to night and the cars running but he says that the gas meter said there was fuel but he later found out that there wasn’t and adding more fuel got it running. So I’m aware of that and the coolant bubble test.
Bad cylinder head is my bet. Castings got better for 30 years, then….. they got worse. So many 1.6L ecoboost have burned to the ground due to a cylinder head crack above the turbo that LEAKED OIL EXTERNALLY ONTO THE TURBO.
In the early 1980's I worked on a 1974 mercury comet with a 250 cu.in. inline 6 cylinder that had oil in the radiator, so the guy I worked for had a cylinder head already redone for it so I put it on and cleaned the cooling system out and got it running and drove the car 2 miles when it started overheating so I took the head off and took a 30 lb freon tank and a welded a valve core in the tank and cut a whole and welded a piece of plumbers pipe to put a couple quarts of motor oil in it and took out the oil sending unit and put 75 lb of air in the tank and hooked it to the engine turned the tank upside down turned it on and fed oil through where the sending unit was and within a few seconds oil was coming through the lifter valley into the water jacket and you could really see where the crack in the block was at, needless to say that car got a junk yard engine put in it and sent the car on it's way!!!!!
i would lean toward water pump or a gasket that seals water from crankcase. don't think its a direct oil pressure leak i think its a crankcase to water jacket failure. some have a water pump driven from timing chain can leak into crankcase.
Yes they are however the pattern is what is important because we can easily filter the noise. Even without water pump, the engine vibrations shows similar pattern. But the amplitude we will see from a combustion event will shadow all the noise easily.
@SchrodingersBox I just checked and there's a class action lawsuit against Mazda for a defect around the engine exhaust, a crack forms that allows coolant to mix with oil. This was just published on. April 11th of this year, "Mazda Coolant Leak Lawsuit Says Defect Can Cause Engine Overheating, Failure" is the title of the article I just read. A bunch of 2016-2020 Mazdas are affected.
If it was an old junky car.. I would actually completely drain the coolant and then fill the entire radiator and engine with some old OIL. lol.. Maybe it will still do fine for another few years. Maybe the oil would still work as a coolant. Fill both systems with old oil and run it until she croaks. haha.. It would be funny if it worked for awhile
Have you ruled out a failed water pump? I didn't hear you mention it... A failed shaft seal could do that. I don't know where the water pump is on that car, but a lot of them are driven by the timing belt/chain. That's my guess, but I don't know any way to confirm other than removing the timing cover to inspect it, if that is indeed where it lives. EDIT: Just spot checking Rock Auto's catalog... Looks like the water pump is external, so never mind....
I think the main thing that kinda rules that out is the fact that the oil isn't really pressurized by the time it would get to the water pump in that scenario, but at the same time it did seem like there was less oil in the coolant than there was coolant in the oil, so you could be on to something
@@SchrodingersBox it was either that, or suggesting that the correct first step was to rip off the cylinder head and perform a visual inspection wherever the crack is. If you look in the right place you'll find the problem right way 100% of the time haha
Funny! I’m a member of a Triumph club (cars not motorcycles) and the inside joke is that the 1st step for ANY mechanical issue is to mess with the carburetor. After that doesn’t fix it, then try to find the real cause.
Is the water pump mounted on the timing chain cover. Back in the day my milk shake was caused by the timing cover corroding through behind to the water pump.
Yes I mentioned this. We would totally see a stream of coolant at the pan for sure. But we wouldn’t see where it is originating from. So it wouldn’t tell us anything new.
I’ve seen 3.6 penastar engine and the Chrysler 3.8 have oil enter through the oil cooler on the 3.6 and the pan gasket on 3.8 it enters under intake in cross over passage. Mixing oil and coolant. But you probably already knew that
No it’s a good thought!! Someone else pointed out that some timing chain covers also have coolant passages - something that also doesn’t apply here but very good to know!!
Should maybe just replace the engine it could be risky replacing a head gasket or head if that's what it is and not a cracked block because with him running it with all that coolant in the oil could cause a piston ring to fail later
Hi! I am tired of dealing with mechanics that change parts but CAN'T diagnose!! I am finish with them! I NEED HELP I WANT TO WORK ON MY OWN VEHICLES!! I HAVE A GMC PENSKE 12' BOX VAN WITH A 4.8L VORTEC 2003. I HAVE NOT DRIVING MY BOX VAN IN 3 YEAR'S I WANT TO START RIGHT HERE. 2 MECHANICS COULDN'T get it started i looked @ your youtube changed the crank shaft sensor van started by myself. It's running but at 160 degrees it cuts off what's my next move?
I want to start working right here this gmc please tell me what meters and lights are tools to buy to get started? It running but when it warm up it shut off! MAF SENSOR MAYBE? WHAT WOULD YOU DO IF A VAN WAS SITTING UP FOR SOME YEARS?
Dang...just finished. Great diag and explanation. I Highly doubt this is a head gasket. My guess is if the head gasket were compromised. It would fail between a water jacket and cylinder. Not just between a water jacket and Oil galley. And considering the amount of mixture my money is on a cracked block. Hope we get a definitive answer. Great job as always
I'm posting a timing chain cover gasket picture to my community page later. GM1.4 Compromised in three spots at the water pump seal. I drained 3 gallons...
As well as on the Vortec 5.0 and 5.7L engines. I've had three intake gaskets installed on my 98 Full size chevy truck with the 5.7L engine. I caught it by having oil analysis done. There was never any indication by looking at the oil as it looked normal. There have been three versions of intake gaskets at least for the 5.7L and I'm sure on the other engines as well to address this issue.
@@Mr2004MCSS I read, on webpages the other night, that GM has moved away from plastic manifold gaskets. Now, OEM vitron rubber is what should be stocked on the shelves for Vortex engines.
@@michaeldunagan8268 My truck still has the second version intake gasket installed so I'm sure it will need to be replaced again at some point. I will then see what the current design is.
@@Mr2004MCSS I bought a Fel-Pro Kit for my L31, but only the upper intake one. It is all rubber. I am now considering doing lower intake gaskets and also fuel injector seals. I have a massive coolant leak if I fill the radiator more than halfway.. I just have not been able to tell whether it is the water pump or the manifold gaskets. Perhaps it is both!
@@michaeldunagan8268 My lower intake gaskets has been replaced on my truck three times, once under warranty. I have never had the upper intake gasket replaced since it has never needed it. If your coolant leak was that massive and it was because of a bad intake gasket, you should be able to tell it by looking at the oil. I caught my last two intake gasket leaks by having oil analysis done because I was slightly losing coolant but there was nothing showing externally and my oil looked normal.
Well holy hell- I never even heard of that channel in my life and I have spent the last hour learning Otto, Atkinson and Miller designs lol. Had no idea of any of this- thanks so much!!!
Coolant comes from somewhere and settles on battleship on top of engine above the rad hose..I don't know how to find it on my 1986 F150 XL. No coolant in engine oil. Any suggestions?
Is it possible for it to go the other way around, where oil may be present in the coolant but no coolant in the oil? I just got a 1985 Toyota Camry, it needs a head gasket. 2se 2.0 engine, hopefully shouldn't be too crazy. I have learned a lot from your videos recently and I appreciate them greatly. I'm going to do some compression testing, there's enough exhaust gas getting in the cooling system I can see the smoke with the radiator cap off, and it smells like exhaust. Just bought the car so I'm hoping it's a head gasket and the job goes smoothly lol
I can think of many ways coolant would enter the oil without oil entering the coolant, but I really can’t think of any way that could happen in reverse.
@@SchrodingersBox makes sense, I think in any case they're interacting it'd be mixing both ways. I think my head gasket is just blown directly from a coolant reservoir to a combustion chamber and it's pushing exhaust gas into the coolant system like crazy. I'll find out shortly here, time to take the head off lol. Thank you by the way
Even I'm not familiar with electronic devices but I'm happy with your simplicity of explanation makes me understand most of your conversations. Thank you for your efforts.
With that much coolant mixed with the oil, I would consider that a junk engine. I have personally had to many negative experiences fixing milk shake engines rod knocking a few weeks post repair. Drop a used engine in and move on with life.
agreed - i would just replace the engine.
That happens when it's left too long.
Same here, doesn't take long to pick up enough coolant and wipe out a bearing
If it's a good brand engine, and you have time, and it's your car, it worth the effort, otherwise it's a no no for rebuild, i like Mazda engines, i have a Mazda 6
Just rebuild it, and know your engine is good again.
You're such a great individual man, after years of watching your channel I'm not currently touching any cars but I still enjoy seeing you diagnose with care and attention to detail. Much love.
Thanks so much. It is fascinating to me how often I get that comment, people who just like watching the “murder mystery” but they don’t work on cars.
Short answer: NO. Modern cars have flimsy oil coolers that can easily transfer coolant to oil. This is an excellent exploratory video for young techs.. you WILL find yourself in situations where you find out WHAT is happening but you can't pinpoint WHY in that crummy hour of diag time. It's also very common to not have the truth from a customer (I overheated it) until AFTER initiating diagnosis. I know what my former service advisors would say to the customer but you worded it properly here and didn't push him down any courses of action.
No Monday morning quarterback, at 9:54 I've concluded I want to stop here and remove the spark plugs. Their condition would tell me where to go next.
Ok I'm proceeding on watching to see what happens. I love this channel.
Every spark plug looked the same.
Agreed. I'd suggest a used lower mileage engine replacement. I sell it as a time to refresh the trans fluid, belts, thermostat and plan on relying on the car afterwards.
I had a failure in my brothers Chrysler 300 3.5 like 6 months back, he made it home and then noticed oil all over the driveway, the expansion tank had overflowed with the classic milkshake. I replaced the oil cooler and flushed gallons on gallons of water through the cooling system lol, been good ever since
Majority of failed coolers I've replaced were on Chryslers and Dodges.
Pressure test with the valve cover off. They like to crack the head by the timing chain if theyve been over heated. If you pressure test with the valve cover off youll see it spray out.
Very interesting video. The Jiffy Lube story was good too.
You could have a leak in the head gasket between a coolant passage and an oil return passage without having any problem with the seal around the combustion chamber.
- sorry, commented before watching the whole thing. I do agree about the used engine being the best repair.
yes correct on everything. whatever the case a used engine is best decision.
When you pressurized the dipstick bubbles showed up almost immediately, the leak must be in the upper portion of the engine. Being the block is half full seems it would take a little while for the pressure to force the water / oil out before the air could escape if the leak is lower. Considering the info on the cracked head issue I think you have the answer.
I love your channel, how you break it down and the reasons why.
What I've done twice in the past in this situation, was to find a car exactly like mine, except it has a blown transmission.. and I buy the whole car for five hundred dollens and swap the engine and also swap out any other parts that my car needed... and then if you're lucky, you can sell the parts car and get your money back, or just go scrap it for a couple hundred. It was a lot of work, but I came out on top in both situations; granted, I did the work myself. Having to pay a mechanic to do all that work is not going to be a fun bill to look at- plus having to find the engine/ parts car. :( ........ That's why, working on your own stuff gives you so many more options........ Which is why I'm here: Picking every fruit from your brain that it can yield. lol.. and several other channels like this. It has been quite the harvest over these past few years.. appreciate ya
One thing I think you mentioned is that the customer saw a cloud of smoke. That indicates the leak has to be either in the combustion chamber (Which is not the case) or at the block right at the exhaust valves vicinity. Correct me if I'm wrong, a crack between an oil galley and a coolant passage would cause coolant and oil to mix, but not a cloud of smoke from the exhaust.
Correct. I believe the dramatic smoke on engine failure was from the excessively high oil level from all the coolant in the pan causing the crankshaft to churn oil into a cylinder.
Great video to be sure it’s a head gasket issue you can use a combustion gas tester that has a dye that changes color it looks for cracked heads etc you can do a compression test but the values can be good usually add test questions has like if there is bubbles in radiator is a cracked head or head gasket or coolant mixing in with oil but coolant mixing in oil which in this case is false
Yes I have many videos using a block tester.
This is my situation right now.
2.3 ulev engine.
Car was given to my lady from her brother ( he owed he a cheap car)
Right out the gate the engine is losing coolant and oil .
I ve gotten to know the mechanic community decently well and have gained some priceless knowledge. (Having never worked on a car)
So check engine lights on oil lights on scan codes are heater circuit 1 & 2 o guess that o2 and air/fuel sensor.
Also clutch control solenoid A. A cylinder looking solenoid on the transmission.
The problem
One day we are sitting in the car while it’s idling just watching out tablet and eating.
And suddenly it stalls.
From there on it’s been a crank no start.
Before that it was having a shift issue around 3rd gear.
So it stalls I check oil it’s empty. I take battery to autozone down the st to charge the battery and keep trying to start it.
A neighbor comes out and swears it’s the timing belt.
I get it towel home.
No compression cylinders 234 and 1 is at 50
Put new spark plugs ( the incorrect ones were in there) I check spark has great spark very visible.
Oil is all over the passenger side of the engine and very dirty.
I learn about the leaky distributor. I learn about possible blown head gasket and possibly slipped timing belt so
I go to autozone and grab a felpro head gasket kit that comes with a few decent items.
I remove the head and belts. Belts are good coolant pump looks new so does distributor.
The pistons and pin valves are carbon cooked.
I completely clean the engine of oil and grim.
I remove the intake manifold and it’s carbon cooked.
I replace the gaskets of all three sides of the head also the throttle body and intake manifold body.
I replace rubber gaskets on the thermostat, shift solenoid, cam seal, metal coolant tube that connect pump and thermostat. Also to the injectors.
Engine is clean carbon gone. Pistons feel good and seem to hold fluid. Cylinder rings had calcium build up I washed and vacuum that out.
Sprayed down all sensor plugs and starter and altinator and put them back right according to the Haynes Manuel specs
I didn’t test the head for leaks but I po let’s it back on already. I may take it back off and do water test.
Belts are back on too .
Also I had and eld high voltage. Error. I watched videos on that.
Right now I’m learning about the multimeter so I can get ready to test parts and sensors.
I’ve got oil a filter an intake filter ready to go back in the engine.
I can head the gas pump prime.
Also when I went to put it in neutral because I have to keep moving the car around I have to keep a little pan in the engine bay to catch the fuel that comes out( sign of fuel but not a sign of goood pressure)
I spray carb cleaner also in the throttle body before I started on the car but that didn’t get it to run either.
I’m hoping I’m left with few to no problems here forward. I took the oil pan off also and cleaned it and re dressed it. I found a Spanish mechanic and read subtitles he showed with a glass table top how putting a lot and a little of maker or rtv worked when pressed.
It’s was a neat video. Wish I could remember the name.
I followed vtec channel who has a rebuild playlist and separate timing belt playlist.
I’ve been preparing watching scan Dan and others but once I say the the first video of this channel which was when he was being sarcastic about ground I’ve just kept it mostly over here.
I made a check list with his 4 +videos on crank no start like a boss etc. (crazy how these videos were years ago)
Watching this video has me feeling defeated because others that have been asking me everyday am I almost done and now I see that it really might not start and work. However I can’t explain how how tiring, and fun and interesting this has been. I’ve been confident it’s going to work though and that I should expect some leaks and now I know how to find them and correct them right away. I just need to be ready to deal with
Replacing rhe o2 sensor and a/f sensor and yeah etc.
Matt, I just started watching and was typing a comment that I love seeing the tow truck drop off the vehicle then you literally started talking about it. LOL. I like seeing it because it shows an aspect that you don't see in other automotive channels since they're in a shop or mobile or whatever. Yeah, it's just a tow truck but for some reason it's cool to see how it all goes down from the tow truck to the final repair. Maybe you should show the customer driving off with their fixed vehicle as well -LOL.
Bernie !! Ms Vikki !! the Kat. !!
Very good meticulous work bud..Good diag
A used engine is definitely the way to go here. Great video Matt!
100% agree. i almost never just replace cylinder heads in these cases.
Former Toyota expert tech here.. No joke, some of those timing cover castings actually look like styrofoam. The risk of porosity there is sky high.
Gotta be aware of certain make model coolant oil heater/cooler assemblies. My findings have found some GM and Chrysler vehicles have those that can give false head gasket failure diagnosis. But im sure other brands may have same style oil coolers/ heaters as well.
Very true. Oil cooler was my first thought
Great video ! Thorough analysis ! You slayed it !!
Good thought Re: Oil Cooler . On my personal car (2010 BMW 328) the all too common Oil Filter Housing / Oil Cooler failure occurred. This forged aluminum block contains the coolant passageway in very close proximity to the oil passage .
🐱 🎁 👊🏼 🔥🎯
Specifically the gasket which is sandwiched in there is what fails .
Interesting video. I look forward to the continuation with part 2.
To my surprise, in my 4.7L V8 chrysler engine I had some sealed coolant passages within the timing chain cover. Is it simple to pull off the oil pan and take a look to see if the coolant is coming from the crankcase or timing chain area? Probably will need to pressurize some dye in the coolant and then use a black light for this. You could also use a bore scope camera in the empty oil pan and/or spark plug holes. Also know that some brands have an oil cooling system as part of the radiator. So there is that too.
This car doesn’t have an oil cooler but good point about the cooling jackets in timing cover. That easily explains the coolant in the oil for sure however The only thing is I think it’s pretty hard to explain that much oil in the coolant in that case.
I’ll check to see if this engine has that design though- great idea!!
Maybe it's not a common issue these days, but when I was a kid, I recall a couple of times when a mate blew a head gasket without any loss of combustion pressure - the gasket blowing between the coolant and oil passages only. Plenty of choc milkshake, but it still ran smooth. Wish I knew what caused the problem - overheating, maybe? - but it's been too many years now for detailed recollection.
Without getting through the whole video yet, I would think for sure there has to be damage, especially if the engine died. My first thought was intake gasket after seeing the video title.
We have a ton of generators with the GM v6 . They run with thermosyphon block heaters. Once the heater fails after years of being on, they drop the coolant right into the oil as the engine cools.
According to the class action, the Mazda SKYACTIV-G engine problems include "significant structural weakness at the cylinder head around the exhaust manifold, causing engine coolant leakage which results in the engine overheating and catastrophic engine failure." Doesn't this seem to match the problem???
Toyota 2.4 liter is known for timing chain cover wearing thru, leaking oil into the coolant.
All of my vehicles (x3) are Toyotas (oldies but goodies) and so unfortunately (or fortunately) my diag skills are wasting away since the only thing I've had to replace on them were aged suspension components or leaking hoses. I've learned the most about electrical and all sorts of diag when I owned a nasty Ford Expedition that I was working on every other weekend. I knew those wiring diagrams and electrical systems inside and out. That's the only thing I'm grateful for about owning a Ford. My dad always taught me don't buy a Ford, we're a Chevy family, I didn't listen and learned the hard way. I tell my teen kids we're a Toyota family. HAHA!
Excellent video
Very interesting diagnostic... I found it interesting that the air from pressurizing the crankcase made its way out of the radiator cap so quickly... I was wondering... from a diagnostics perspective... do you think there is any value in finding out if the air is making its way to the radiator via the upper or lower hose? What would this kind of information tell us? Very curious... - Thanks as always for your quality work and videos.
Good thinking! That may help isolate too or bottom end issue.
What you need is what surgeons use. A microendoscope to feed through the channels to see where the air is leaking from, but that would cost a bucked load aha
I respect your videos i give them time ❤
🎵 My Milkshake brings all the techs to the yard🎵
HHahahahahaha!!!! Dang it I should have done something with that lol
They told me that Dex Cool was in my radiator reservoir!
Intake gaskets had a Firebird with a timing cover that eroded through to the timing chain
No coolant runs through this card’s intake.
Radiators have oil cooling tubes running through the coolant that leak trans coolers oil coolers have coolant running through them .
My ls1 camaro had a coolant crossover pipe leak into the knock sensor and into the crankcase.
yes many many V engines have crossover pipes.
this is a 4 cylinder so it doesn’t have one but also a crossover pipe leak won’t explain the oil in the coolant.
Did the owner of the car ever have it overheat. I know that some blocks with aluminum heads can warp and allow fluids to mix where they should not. I had a nephew that had iron block GM product with aluminum head that let the oil and coolant mix. Again this would be a best case for this engine
Oh and also I added Lucas to the gas tank and I’m not messing with anything else as far as treatment I’ve watched the nay say videos on those,
And I saw a video today of a guy who went to help his friend on the same car and the videos skips from day to night and the cars running but he says that the gas meter said there was fuel but he later found out that there wasn’t and adding more fuel got it running. So I’m aware of that and the coolant bubble test.
No, just like sugar in the gas tank is not always from driving through sugar cane fields.
Sometimes it is just scum putting it there.
Magma fluxing is the way to detect cracks
Bad cylinder head is my bet. Castings got better for 30 years, then….. they got worse. So many 1.6L ecoboost have burned to the ground due to a cylinder head crack above the turbo that LEAKED OIL EXTERNALLY ONTO THE TURBO.
As i think its better if you remove the valve cover and and the oil sump with cooling system pressuring without removing cylinder head
Great video! So after fixing the leak, would you do a radiator flush with cleaner and an oil flush before adding the new fluids?
Absolutely. Radiator flush and oil system flush- twice!!
In the early 1980's I worked on a 1974 mercury comet with a 250 cu.in. inline 6 cylinder that had oil in the radiator, so the guy I worked for had a cylinder head already redone for it so I put it on and cleaned the cooling system out and got it running and drove the car 2 miles when it started overheating so I took the head off and took a 30 lb freon tank and a welded a valve core in the tank and cut a whole and welded a piece of plumbers pipe to put a couple quarts of motor oil in it and took out the oil sending unit and put 75 lb of air in the tank and hooked it to the engine turned the tank upside down turned it on and fed oil through where the sending unit was and within a few seconds oil was coming through the lifter valley into the water jacket and you could really see where the crack in the block was at, needless to say that car got a junk yard engine put in it and sent the car on it's way!!!!!
I respecfully disagree with installing a used engine.
If I am paying 15-25 hours of labor to remove and replace an engine, it has to remanufactured.
Hello, I would of thought that maybe a balloon on the dip stick tube would of inflated.
My old 98' Volvo routes the oil cooler hoses through a chamber in the radiator. Perhaps Mazda does the same thing.
It does not. No oil coolant to the radiator at all.
i would lean toward water pump or a gasket that seals water from crankcase. don't think its a direct oil pressure leak i think its a crankcase to water jacket failure. some have a water pump driven from timing chain can leak into crankcase.
Only problem is the water pump is external, thus the reason I didn’t pursue removing valve cover or front cover.
Some automatic vehicles have coolant warmers connected to the transmission to warm fluid I seem they get bad internal leak
Cracked block/head where a water jacket is?
Heat exchanger at oil filter base can make oil\water mixing
I might have missed it but did you try using a bore scope? Or would you expect to see anything in the cylinder head using one
It would only be useful looking in the cylinders which are completely dry.
No. It could be a blown intake gasket. Especially on those early 2000s GM engines.
He did comment that later in video. Ie 3100
Does this car have an internal water pump? If so maybe the water pump failed and is dumping coolant into the engine.
With that much fluid in the pan, is there a danger of bending the push rods or getting hydro-lock from cranking it over?
I absolutely think so and in fact may have been why the engine died suddenly
10:29 And cut off water pump, or pull out belt from driving it. Because im guessing that oscilloscope waves are from pump.
Yes they are however the pattern is what is important because we can easily filter the noise.
Even without water pump, the engine vibrations shows similar pattern. But the amplitude we will see from a combustion event will shadow all the noise easily.
There was recall for cracked head on some Mazdas 2.5.
A recall or a TSB? I checked TSB’s and found nothing.
@SchrodingersBox I just checked and there's a class action lawsuit against Mazda for a defect around the engine exhaust, a crack forms that allows coolant to mix with oil. This was just published on. April 11th of this year, "Mazda Coolant Leak Lawsuit Says Defect Can Cause Engine Overheating, Failure" is the title of the article I just read. A bunch of 2016-2020 Mazdas are affected.
Oh wow man!!!! I will look that up for sure!!!
Here comes NeverOwned with the save! Good stuff..
@@donniev8181
And of course: the car is out of warranty when "dar she blows"...correct?
If it was an old junky car.. I would actually completely drain the coolant and then fill the entire radiator and engine with some old OIL. lol.. Maybe it will still do fine for another few years. Maybe the oil would still work as a coolant. Fill both systems with old oil and run it until she croaks. haha.. It would be funny if it worked for awhile
I take that back😔
Have you ruled out a failed water pump? I didn't hear you mention it... A failed shaft seal could do that.
I don't know where the water pump is on that car, but a lot of them are driven by the timing belt/chain.
That's my guess, but I don't know any way to confirm other than removing the timing cover to inspect it, if that is indeed where it lives.
EDIT: Just spot checking Rock Auto's catalog... Looks like the water pump is external, so never mind....
I think the main thing that kinda rules that out is the fact that the oil isn't really pressurized by the time it would get to the water pump in that scenario, but at the same time it did seem like there was less oil in the coolant than there was coolant in the oil, so you could be on to something
Matt did you try checking powers and GROUNDS?
Hahahaha I was waiting for someone to say that!! lol!!
Right on / Love it !
😄 👏🏼
@@SchrodingersBox it was either that, or suggesting that the correct first step was to rip off the cylinder head and perform a visual inspection wherever the crack is. If you look in the right place you'll find the problem right way 100% of the time haha
Hahaha dude you have been watching this channel way too much lol!!!
Funny! I’m a member of a Triumph club (cars not motorcycles) and the inside joke is that the 1st step for ANY mechanical issue is to mess with the carburetor. After that doesn’t fix it, then try to find the real cause.
Would ya just look at that oil there!
Could still be a bad head gasket . Thay don't aways fail in the cylinder side .
Correct. But the odds of that given the volume of leakage… that’s a really really specific warp in a very specific area of the cylinder head.
Having a turbo can also lead to oil and water mixing
Absolutely !!! No turbo here tho.
17:49 Oooo yes!
Wasn’t that awesome!!!
@@SchrodingersBox Yes, easy and simple.
Is the water pump mounted on the timing chain cover. Back in the day my milk shake was caused by the timing cover corroding through behind to the water pump.
It is however it doesn’t explain that much coolant in the oil. That’s from pressurized oil- the oil isn’t pressurized on a timing chain.
👍
im a bit early to the party
never to early to party!!!
What about looking for a stream of pressurized coolant with pan off using an endoscope?
Yes I mentioned this. We would totally see a stream of coolant at the pan for sure. But we wouldn’t see where it is originating from. So it wouldn’t tell us anything new.
I’ve seen 3.6 penastar engine and the Chrysler 3.8 have oil enter through the oil cooler on the 3.6 and the pan gasket on 3.8 it enters under intake in cross over passage. Mixing oil and coolant. But you probably already knew that
Yep aware. This engine doesn’t have the same design. No crossover pipes.
@@SchrodingersBox just saw that 🫤
What's about a timing chain cover / gasket and water pump . Check engine diagram 🤔
external water pump here.
@@SchrodingersBox , yep , sorry 😞
No it’s a good thought!! Someone else pointed out that some timing chain covers also have coolant passages - something that also doesn’t apply here but very good to know!!
Should maybe just replace the engine it could be risky replacing a head gasket or head if that's what it is and not a cracked block because with him running it with all that coolant in the oil could cause a piston ring to fail later
100% agree!!! I almost always just replace the whole engine in these cases.
Hi! I am tired of dealing with mechanics that change parts but CAN'T diagnose!! I am finish with them! I NEED HELP I WANT TO WORK ON MY OWN VEHICLES!! I HAVE A GMC PENSKE 12' BOX VAN WITH A 4.8L VORTEC 2003. I HAVE NOT DRIVING MY BOX VAN IN 3 YEAR'S I WANT TO START RIGHT HERE. 2 MECHANICS COULDN'T get it started i looked @ your youtube changed the crank shaft sensor van started by myself. It's running but at 160 degrees it cuts off what's my next move?
I want to start working right here this gmc please tell me what meters and lights are tools to buy to get started? It running but when it warm up it shut off! MAF SENSOR MAYBE? WHAT WOULD YOU DO IF A VAN WAS SITTING UP FOR SOME YEARS?
I started with nothing more than a basic multimeter for the first 5 years of this channel
Cracked head cracked block from running no coolant
, hi, what should be the compression on a single cylinder scooter 125 cc thanks
Overfill, aerated oil?
I run outta time to watch all the way thru and started skipping. If it has a turbo. there is an oil and water pathway there too if it gets cracked.
Yep no turbo here. Good thought tho!
Do a smoke test
on what exactly?
Im three minutes in im guessing oil cooler....i might come back and erase this lol
i wish I could have erased when i said that same thing hahahaha
Dang...just finished. Great diag and explanation. I Highly doubt this is a head gasket. My guess is if the head gasket were compromised. It would fail between a water jacket and cylinder. Not just between a water jacket and Oil galley. And considering the amount of mixture my money is on a cracked block. Hope we get a definitive answer. Great job as always
100% agreed!!
I'm posting a timing chain cover gasket picture to my community page later. GM1.4 Compromised in three spots at the water pump seal. I drained 3 gallons...
Happens all the time due to bad manifold gaskets on Vortec 4.3s.
As well as on the Vortec 5.0 and 5.7L engines. I've had three intake gaskets installed on my 98 Full size chevy truck with the 5.7L engine. I caught it by having oil analysis done. There was never any indication by looking at the oil as it looked normal. There have been three versions of intake gaskets at least for the 5.7L and I'm sure on the other engines as well to address this issue.
@@Mr2004MCSS
I read, on webpages the other night, that GM has moved away from plastic manifold gaskets. Now, OEM vitron rubber is what should be stocked on the shelves for Vortex engines.
@@michaeldunagan8268 My truck still has the second version intake gasket installed so I'm sure it will need to be replaced again at some point. I will then see what the current design is.
@@Mr2004MCSS
I bought a Fel-Pro Kit for my L31, but only the upper intake one. It is all rubber. I am now considering doing lower intake gaskets and also fuel injector seals.
I have a massive coolant leak if I fill the radiator more than halfway.. I just have not been able to tell whether it is the water pump or the manifold gaskets. Perhaps it is both!
@@michaeldunagan8268 My lower intake gaskets has been replaced on my truck three times, once under warranty. I have never had the upper intake gasket replaced since it has never needed it. If your coolant leak was that massive and it was because of a bad intake gasket, you should be able to tell it by looking at the oil. I caught my last two intake gasket leaks by having oil analysis done because I was slightly losing coolant but there was nothing showing externally and my oil looked normal.
Have you watched the crazy engine mods vids on D4A?
Not sure what that is- can you elaborate and I’ll check it out?
@SchrodingersBox I meant the different types of ICE engines like Atkinson, on the Driving for Answers channel? Some seem really cool!
I will check that out!! I know nothing about this. Thanks Charles!!
Well holy hell- I never even heard of that channel in my life and I have spent the last hour learning Otto, Atkinson and Miller designs lol. Had no idea of any of this- thanks so much!!!
Coolant comes from somewhere and settles on battleship on top of engine above the rad hose..I don't know how to find it on my 1986 F150 XL. No coolant in engine oil. Any suggestions?
Pressure test
yep what shadow said. start with a pressure test.
Waiting for pb In chocolate joke
Dammit!!!!!! I totally should have done that hahahahahahahaha!!!!!!
Intake manifold gasket
I thought so too…
Read the class action lawsuit against Mazda, I think this car may be one of those affected.
Is it possible for it to go the other way around, where oil may be present in the coolant but no coolant in the oil?
I just got a 1985 Toyota Camry, it needs a head gasket. 2se 2.0 engine, hopefully shouldn't be too crazy. I have learned a lot from your videos recently and I appreciate them greatly.
I'm going to do some compression testing, there's enough exhaust gas getting in the cooling system I can see the smoke with the radiator cap off, and it smells like exhaust. Just bought the car so I'm hoping it's a head gasket and the job goes smoothly lol
I can think of many ways coolant would enter the oil without oil entering the coolant, but I really can’t think of any way that could happen in reverse.
@@SchrodingersBox makes sense, I think in any case they're interacting it'd be mixing both ways. I think my head gasket is just blown directly from a coolant reservoir to a combustion chamber and it's pushing exhaust gas into the coolant system like crazy.
I'll find out shortly here, time to take the head off lol. Thank you by the way
I didn't know they started putting oil coolers on cars, thought they were j u st aftermarket.
I’ve seen lots of cars with them. In fact I just replaced one on a Volvo recently.
👍
My Mentor
SHREWD ,Schrodingers Box
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 22:11PM Good Evening 🌧 and more 🌧
Hahaha I tried to get it to you before bedtime over there lol!!
Mepppppow. 😿