How to Replace the Rear Axle Seal and Bearing on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- In this video I go through fitting the rear axle seal and bearing on our 1948 TEA20 tractor.
The parts used in this video can be purchased from our web site here: www.queenslandt...
E bay here: www.ebay.com.au...
Or at Sparex: au.sparex.com/h... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Lance just an FYI. Used MAP gas to heat the collar, it changed colours, like it was sweating impurities out of the metal but blued rather than cherry red... worked a treat mate 🙂👍👍 33:48 33:50
Thanks Nick, good to know.
Good on you Lance. Thanks for keeping it simple for those of us who don't have a full workshop.
Thanks Tony, That's what it is all about.
Great video, very helpful and good tips and advice
Glad you enjoyed it
Most entertaining and instructive demonstration . I’m heading straight out to my shed to pull the rear wheel off the old TEA_20 . Thanks. Will be watching more of your videos in the future .
Thankyou, Good to hear .
Loving the simplicity of how you show and make the videos...keep them coming
Glad you like them!
was that an Australian miracle ! you remove two studs and the assembly is miraculously shot blasted !.as usual Lance a cracking informative, good humoured video full of great personality thanks
Thanks Steve, You never know what can happen in the shed eh ? Magic.
Thanks, Lance. As I said on the other video, I bought all the seals. Since mine is a TO 20 1948 #499, it should not have the inner one so I will replace the outer seal then grease the bearing and use the sure seal for extra protection. The boil the bearing in oil is a great idea. I would have never thought of that. will watch for the install and shimming video. You are the best!
Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Lance.
It’s a good job you’re around. I’ve learnt and saved a lot watching your videos. All the best Mick
Thanks Mick.
Now then Lance, another top informative and interesting video. Good news from here, took the tractor on the truck to the show today....all went well, no glitches. So will get a video of going round the showring on Sunday. Should be fun as the organizer is quite a character.
Looks like it went well Malc.
Thanks Lance - I thought you might say that! I’ll take the shafts along to a local firm to get the work done. By the way, I wish we had some of your hot weather over here in England. We had a hail storm on Thursday and snow is forecast again for Monday (and it’ll be April then!!)
I'm not too keen on the cold, but extreme heat is a worry too at times
Hi Lance.Another great video and explained very well, I am looking at as many of your video's as I can, thanks again for the info' its like I am standing beside you in your workshop been taught how to work on a tractor, I could not buy this.Cheers.Jimmy.
Thanks Jimmy, Glad you are getting something from them.
That was a great job installing the seal kit Lance.
Thanks Lloyd, That's what I know, fixing tractors.
Super video. Thank you. I'm about to inspect/lube/replace the read seals and bearings on Terramite T5C. This will help.
I hope it does.
G'day Lance that sand bluster really does a nice job of cleaning up metal. That was a good video lance thanks mate regards John
Thanks John, Yes there is not much that does not get a bead blast on the way through, saves a lot of work and leaves a nice finish to paint over.
Lance, Thank you SO SO Much for this Video, (replacing axel seals and Bearings on the TO20) I'm doing this very job on my friends TO20 and was at the point of trying to understand how it comes apart and goes together I am confident I can do this now but will need to wait on new Collars as they were not in the parts Box. Best Regards Ken
You are welcome!
Thanks Lance. Another really informative video. I’ll soon be starting on the restoration of my 1955 TEA20 and this is one of the replacements that I know I will have to do. Cheers.
Thanks Colin, Easy enough to do good luck with it.
Good job THANKS Mate . God bless you and you're family THANKS.
Thanks Ozz
One bump of the cutting trigger and that collar was going to be liquid... 😆 that bad boy was HOT! Very nice video, very informative!
Glad you enjoyed it
Very helpful, thank you for your information and details.
You are welcome!
Hey Lance, hope your well mate, got this very job to have a go at tomorrow…quick question,you use oxy on the collar putting it back on..do you think I would get away with a plumbers blow torch..one of the decent ones not a diy job … ?? Or does it need to be oxy for sure>> ill find out tomorrow anyway just don’t want the collar getting stuck and cooling too quickly I guess….😊
I found you need to get it red, how you do that probably doesn't matter..
great work, your gifted.
Thank you kindly!
Very good
Thanks
Really informative as to getting it right and putting it right when it is not going to plan. Thank you.
Glad it helped.
I think there's a spacer in the diff where the 2 1/2 shaft inner ends meet, this spacer keeps the Half shaft outer bearings engaged correctly.
G day MrMusic1950, there is a spacer but it is just a spider for the small spherical gears, the axles are supported in the diff by the side gears and need to touch in the middle, or have a small clearance, and the axles touching stops the movement away from the outer bearing.
Bundy Bears Shed thanks for that, I worked on this sorta stuff 70's through 2000, but can't remember just exactly all ins & outs. Keep up the good vid's
Lance how do you do this job if you don't have a pressing plate .both me and my mate John have two leaking seal's each .
It can be hard but then some come off easily.
Love the video. Is that the same for a Tef20
Yes , they dont use a speedi sleeve though.
Lance, if the seal is leaking would a sure seal correct this problem or would a replacement of the collar and axle seal be warranted
If it is the early model the sure seal will fix it and if the later model the inner axle seal would fix it.
I've got a 1949 Ferguson TO-20
Thank you for this video. It's very helpful.
You are welcome!
Hi Lance
How is temperature of oil in chips coocker?
around 180c
Excellent thank you - just what I needed to know!
Glad it was helpful!
great job very good lesson thanks
You are welcome!
A good clear instruction. Thanks very much.
Thanks Steve, Glad yo got something from it.
Can you get some accurate measurements of the axle OD and the collar ID? Reason being I"m trying to figure out if a guy really needs the heat of an oxy setup. Figuring a very rough expansion of .001 per 100 degrees F. Just thinking how far a guy can get with the least amount of tools on hand.
Ill see if I can remember this weekend.
Lance, love what you are doing. You have inspired me to tackle improvements to my 1953 TO30. I am at the point of installing the bearing lock collars. Would you mind telling me what kind of tip you used for heating and the acetylene/oxygen settings? Thank you for all that you are teaching us!!
Just a normal cutting tip, nothing special really.
Hi Lance. Great video. Can I ask - how hot does that chip fryer get? I don’t have one so will have to just use the oven and would be helpful to know how hot to bring it up to. Regards
From memory 180deg C
It is always good when you work with wheel bearing change with cold and hot. Everything that should expand is made hot and what should be pulled together is a day in the freezer.
Yes you can use heat and cold to your advantage for sure. It makes a big difference.
Job done thanks to you. Rod
Glad it helped.
Great info as usual, Lance, what would you recommend as the main required imperial tools for a TE20, I've got a chance of picking one up but all my tools are metric?
G Day Deebo1820, AF spanner and socket set would do almost everything. The two sizes on the Fergy spanner were 11/16" AF and 1 1/16" AF but the manifold bolts are 9/16 and 1/2" so a set from 3/8" up to 1 1/16 or a little larger would do the job.
Bundy Bears Shed Great, thanks for the info!
Hi Lance!
This is what I have to do om my MF35. Have no access on acetylene burner. Can i press the retaining ring in 10T hydraulic press?
No not really they dont shrink on like is necessary.
@@BundyBearsShed OK, then have to find where can barrow one burner.
Hello Lance- another really useful and informative video as always.
I need to do this job soon as part of my TEF 20 rebuild but don’t have a press to do the strip down.
Is it possible to do the work without a press or will I need to have it done somewhere.
I think you would really need a press some of them can be very tight.
Oh fuck me that outer seal looks like a pain in the ass to get to.
I'll just live with the grease leak and replace the inner seal.
Good work
Thankyou,
i was taught , that you should never put oil between a bearing's race and the housing, because it will cause the outer race to move in the housing
I was taught the opposite, I was shown to oil so pressing was easier and it wouldn't gall so easily, and the interference fit should be plenty to hold it in place. I have done it for 40 years now and not had trouble but I'm still not to old to learn something.
Next time canola.....Had some spare SAE30, so used that. Bloody kids whinging about the aftertaste now !
Ha Ha tell em they shouldn't squeak or squalk now.
What do you do with the leather seal, it comes in the kit but do you need it?
The leather in mine was part of the lip seal.
ar duck burnt my nose thats what you get for sticking your bib in lol and yes if its LH keep it LH do not change the plot good vid well done
Thanks Bill, I keep the same sides if I know where each axle came from for sure. Hope it is the correct thing to do.
So do you not grease the bearing when it goes in the hub assembly?
On the later ones with 2 seals I do but if it is the early one the back end oil looks after lubrication.
@@BundyBearsShed my tractor is a 1951 Ferguson to20 I’ve already got one side tore completely down and ordered both the outer seal and the newer inner sure seal to make sure it doesn’t leak again. I just watched your sure seal video My plan now is to re assemble that side and just place the sure seal on the opposite side and add grease to stop the leak does that sound right? Im an auto mechanic in the USA not familiar with tractors at all it was passed down from my wife’s great grandfather and wanted to get it going again in his memory.
@@matthewhawes7469 if you have the 2 seals the sure seal is not for you as you just nèd the inner seal to stop leaks.
Is it possible to just knock on the bearing using a correct size pipe rather than heat up the bearing?
Yes that would work for sure.
The bearings for 8N's, Fergusons and TE20's are not greased?
No early ones used the trans oil and the very late ones had a grease nipple
Hi Lance!
Yesterday I was going to heat up the collars to put them on their axels. Unfortunately I run out of acetylene gas just Before the first collar reached high temperature. Do you Think it's okay to heat it up again or should I get a new collar?
Thank's in advance!Best regards,Martin, Sweden
G day Martin, It is fine to heat it up again as it would have just gone back to its original state. No need for a new collar.
Ok, thank you! :-)
Can i install a sure seal in addition to the oil seal fitted in the trumpet housing?
No need really
@@BundyBearsShed is it one or the other or could both be installed?
@@kennyc8823 one or the other, I dont think the sure seal will fit on the 19 spline axle.
@@BundyBearsShed I see. Is the tea20 a 19 spline axle? I fitted it no problem im just worried now if there is going to be enough room in the housing to have both seals adjacent to eachother
The early TEA was 16 spline and the sure seal was a good idea, the later axle was 19 spline with the inner seal but I dont know if it will rub or not
Hi Lance! I appreciate your videos very much since I'm restoring a TED 20 -54 right now. Do you have any tip on how to get the rear axle out when the nuts are of from the studs that is holding it in place? Many thanks in advace from Sweden! :-)
G Day Martin, Give it all a smack with a hammer on the axle flange and it the nuts are off it should come.
Thanks, I've tried but the brake shield is in the way. I'm afraid of destroying it.
Sometimes the brake backing plate can be bumped as well and once it is loose it should come.
Ok, thanks!
Another question regarding the plate you use in the press to get the bearings out: Does it fit for both TE20 and MF35 even if the MF35 have more studs? (is it the same hole pattern?)
Do you know where one can find the measurements for the patterns (TE20 and MF35)? I'm going to replace the bearings on my MF35 aswell.
Martin Bergström yes same stud pattern but the locating boss is slightly larger
Some auld bush spanners there.
Most of them have earned there keep over the years that's for sure.
Thx bear great informative video but don't try and buy your parts from sparex they won't sell to the general public
G Day Warren, Sparex have a very extensive dealer network that they support. You can use the Sparex numbers and support your local dealer and in the process support your local economy.
Kya india me ye seal mil sakti h kya
This is not translating for me Im sorry.
Sir i want this rear axle seal in India Delhi
to 20 and to30 tham trans/rear end
No not that Im aware of if they are the same as a te20 and FE35
glad I didn't buy a Ferguson
I think you could do worse like anything Chinese.
damn, just got a TE20 and this will be a pain with no press.
Yes can be but a press is not hard to find.