I absolutely love your commentary/inner monolog. Hearing your thought process is both educating and entertaining. You can tell that when you go to explain it to "us" it helps you understand it yourself. I often play your videos in background while I work on my own planes.
The secret to stable wings is "washout" or "twist" The idea is to stall the wing in the center (root) first, allowing the wingtips to keep generating lift. A perfectly flat wing stalls all at once. There is a little drag penalty, but you can't have everything.
From 30.28min to 40.28 cheek out the cloud in rhe center left of the screen. It goes from a ghost figure with a hat and long nose to an old man walking with a bush long walking pole to a guy taking a golf swing.I know its strange but I had to keep re watching it was amazing.
Good honest video, well done, been doing this stuff for a long time and I picked up some things from it. I tried the hand held hotwire for a while and then it got the better of me and I scratch built a CNC hotwire, it took some doing and a while to iron out the bugs but t works well now, very smooth, biggest problem is it's addictive, very addictive, I need more space for all the foam :)
Really fun video ... all in all you did an outstanding job. I was also going to suggest setting the break on the ESC it should kill the prop spin when it's not powered. Also ... if you can't catch it when you land, the break should help with the survivability of the prop. I'm also impressed with the CNC work you did ... it really added to the overall look of the plane. Thanks for sharing the build with us ... cheers, dave
The best way to stiffen a wing made from that foam is to use either modelspan (shoe-box) tissue or very lightweight (0.5 ounce) fibreglass -- applied with water-based polyurethane. The DL50 DLG from Mountain Models has a wing built this way and it was *very* stiff. Plastic film is too "stretchy" to provide much added rigidity.
As it happens I bought some large sheets of tissue to make a little hot-air balloon recently but then couldn't be bothered, and the weather turned to shit. Is there a common brand-name you know of for that water based polyurethane, I presume it's something you can find commonly at Mitre10 and such?
Hello, First of all I'd like to say that your channel is amazing. Everything that you do makes me question and improve my own building, thank you! What I always do to get the last bit of covering or packing tape really tight is finish it of with a hot air gun. Be careful though because too much heat and you can start over again. Keep up the good work and the jokes
A brilliant idea for attachments at 8:08, made from plastic. Nice CAD design work, and CNC production. Overall great experimentation with building and design techniques
I enjoy your videos. I did quite a bit of HLG flying right before the DLG transition. From your description of pitch feel and the size of the elevator I would recommend a larger surface area and possibly moving the CG back. I would perform a dive test and set it up to barely pull out. As you move the CG back the elevator authority will improve. The key with HLG is to keep off the elevator and fly at a good pace so that you have the control authority to work the thermal. Some of the sudden departures appear to be the the result of pulling on the elevator followed by a stall. Overall great effort, tuning your own design can be lots of fun and is a never ending process.
This is very close to what I built a year or so ago. I got it under 100g without a motor but found that I could craft a good enough wing to sustain a good glide with my methods... Nice work!
Nice work, if you're not vigilant that weight just keeps creeping up doesn't it? Was there a video about that, I might have seen but don't recall. I remember seeing you flew a plane above your school sports field, but that had cameras on it so I doubt that was the 100g build?
Love it man! Very nice project. Maybe throw a cheap all in one fpv cam/transmitter on the front, that thing would be super fun in fpv. I was surprised how much easier my mini glider was to control.
Nice job and I love the phenolic parts. I searched here and no one mentioned this. When your elevator or any control surface moves and then jumps (around 28:01 mins) and no control linkages are hooked up, that usually means the cuts are not straight (or a hinge is not straight - but you didn't use hinges). Always best to make that stab and then cut the elevator off with a straight edge and then you know it's straight. Also, I have to agree that any time you don't have ailerons, you have to have a dihedral or polyhedral wing.
Nice catch on the first flight. :D My experience with prop savers is that they work great at low RPMs, but lose a lot of thrust when they start to vibrate. The current draw goes way up too. Seems like it's hard on everything.
Hi , I have had a go at cutting wings out using the pivot method and found that you have to really pull the wire very tight . I used cardboard as the former guide just for the test cut . I was doing a big flying wing profile too . Great vid . Graham
You would have been better off to add some dihedral to the wing and use rudder/elevator as your controls. All my small DLGs have just rudder/elevator. Dihedral will also give the model more lateral stability which is handy when flying in turbulent conditions -- such as those which exist on the boundary of a thermal.
Yeah, trying it like this has been a good way to understand first-hand why some things are done the way they are. The dihedral would really help with orientation, when I flew this later in the evening I was losing orientation a couple of times per minute, leading to some wild aerobatics - no crash though luckily.
Im thinking the smaller prop would've worked better had it been more solidly mounted, and flat wings or more upswept, since you lose some lift as is. no idea the laminate covering would added 15g on the wing. hmmm nice video and I gained some tips in construction :-)
Nice build, very promising! I love the CNC'd pieces. Maybe setting the ESC break would reduce drag during gliding? Maybe the rubber band for the elevator should be on the bottom, so that you can always pull up? Currently the wind from the airspeed will push the elevator down and make you dive.
If you want cut wire to be without any bends: Lock one side (tie to screw) and put another in drill and turn it slowly. While wire twists it will straighten it self. It will be straight as arrow. Just dont over do it.
Ya. Just build the hotwire like a traditional bow saw, and secure it instead of the wing (which is hard when you want to hotwire both side of the airfoil). What motor are you using? I'd probably go for a ~2kkv quad motor (they tend to be ridiculously better made than the traditional stuff, and put out way more power) with a 6" slow fly prop.
I am impressed again by your skills, I have not yet flown anything properly, but I have been watching lots of Flite Test utubes, my newby suggestion is 3 percent up-angle of the motor (my 5 cents) 1 question? what is the name of that clear plastic that you CNCed,? the acryl I have access to is impossible to cnc it just melts. PS did you watch Experimental Airlines tube about making a DLC from foamboard? regards from Neal in Norway
It's FR4, a type of fiberglass. For the acrylic melting problem you could try slowing down the spindle a lot (and/or faster feed rate). I was cutting some 1mm acrylic recently and I had to slow the spindle to 1/3 the normal speed. An end mill with less flutes will be better too. The FR4 should be cut with a burr style end mill, not flutes. Yes, I think I have seen the Experimental airlines video you mention.
Great job on the design and build! Enjoyed it. A few suggestions - I could be wrong but I don’t see any wing incidence at all. Might be causing the instability and inefficiency too. If you do have incidence, add a bit more. Also, your center of lift seems to be below the center of gravity. So either add dihedral or raise the wing higher off the boom or lower the battery, or some combination
Correct, no incidence. But a little trim on the elevator takes care of that, albeit with a small efficiency loss. Yes it might have helped to have the CG a bit lower relative to the wing.
Very cool build. It looked like the elevator control horn was on the bottom of the elevator and the rubber band on the top, so up was only achieved by the tension in the small rubber band. Instead, If the control horn had been on top and the servo pulled the up elevator and the rubber band tension pulled the down elevator, you would have had better pitch authority. (If I saw it correctly) But well done🙂
Use a hot-air gun to get the covering tight over the holes. Just go easy with it and It will get it nice a tight. A hair dryer might even do the job. It might even fix your bubble problem on your wings. The other thing you can do is apply spray adhesive before covering on foam to help the covering stick to stop it from bubbling when it is flexed.
Think the model is underpowered with a loose and out of balance prop on the power side of things. The center-of-gravity may be slightly too rearward as-is. The wing has drooping anhedral which kills any self-stability, and in combination with narrow small tail-group gives erratic flight. The plane is hunting around. At least move the center-of-gravity slightly foward to reduce the instability. I think the wing area is fine, but it's a big wing for that tiny motor. The wing plan is that of a glider already. Slight fixes and a slightly bigger motor will fly fine. It's a sound design planform. The CNC work with 1mm frp is awesome. Looking foward to trying your boom mounting design schemes.
A small pod for the front components, receiver, batt etc. Then a folding prop and spinner along with ESC braking should give less drag during the glide. Is the rubberband pull elevator still irregular snap when you adjust for height ? You made a great wee powered glider. Well done Chris!
There no noticeable snap to the elevator when it's moved by the servo. You can only tell when you move it by hand, because our fingers have very good force-feedback sensors :)
The propeller must be seated properly in the prop-saver, maybe must be reamed to the right diameter otherwise the vibration eats all the power. In the control it seams to have some adverse yaw or it is just me?. Great project by the way, congrats!
very interesting and fun to see! hope you will improve this model? (please like some sizes of the model) what rough sizes? Goodluck, and greetings from the Netherlands! Rob.
For efficient flying of such a small glider the model needs to be intrinsically stable, constant control corrections kill glide performance as does yank and bank steering. It seems to me your biggest issue here is not having any dihedral. Even the most advanced DLGs have plenty of dihedral and a powerful rudder. Dihedral and rudder work in unison to give better turns.Take away here is basic modeling skills have been lost or never acquired with the proliferation of ARF and RTF models. Most foamies neglect dihedral because it complicates the simplicity of a tube main spar and tend to use molded in wingtip turnups to impart roll stability. BTW wing area and aspect ratio looked OK to my eye at least and congrats on giving it a go. Plenty learned here so even if it never flys as well as you hoped it will still be a success .
This is my first scratch-built plane (unless you count that silly vtol thing). I have watched a lot of videos so I'm mostly aware of how and why it all works (or doesn't work) but there's nothing like learning first hand why things are typically done the way they are. So far the lack of dihedral has been more a problem for keeping my orientation, I did some more flying in the evening and there were quite a few accidental aerobatics, luckily none resulting in a crash though.
Hi, I was wondering if you did not make an aerofoil shape, would it still fly ? I remember watching some videos about pizza box flyers,which fly even if there is no aerofoil shape. A huge thumbs up for your videos ,its amazing how much you contribute to everyone's learning. Cheers and keep up the brilliant work!!
good project .... as others have said dihedral is needed and i think the wing is flexing to much. Can i say that flying over trees is not good for lift trees take the lift away in the day and give off heat i.e. lift in the evening.
to much vibration slowing prop down in those first tests....I think a 7x3.5 fits those prop savers the best also may need alittle more wing incidence. try motor braking see if gliding helps also.great job
Yes, but also more drag, so would need more power. It's all a balancing act :) Turns out the worst feature of this plane is that it was impossible to tell which way it was facing in the twilight, which caused it to get smashed into a tree.
Great video. One criticism: I think your wing is too thin. You could tell by the shakiness at take-off, at low throttle, and at no throttle. You are basically losing a lot of lift due to micro-stalls when your wing is moving slowly or is outside of its favoured angle of attack envelope, which is narrow. That airfoil will perform very well at high speed and at low angle of attack, but it will have terrible stall characteristics at low speed and at high angle of attack. You noticed that it improved significantly with a stronger motor -- that's because that wing will actually be much more stable at a higher speed. A more teardrop-shaped wing will be heavier and have slightly more drag in its favoured envelope, but that envelope will be larger and hence much more robust to your actual flying conditions. A thicker wing will also be easier to see and orient in the sky.
Nice plane. I think that your rudder/fin is too large for a flat wing plane. There is an optimal size for each dihedral and tail position. Your printed parts were impressive.
I'm wondering motor and battery. My guess is a 1S battery, and maybe a lower KV motor. 2S and a 2300KV motor should have given more than enough thrust on his initial 5030 prop.
What do you think of this one? I can get on Amazon Prime Armattan MN1804 2300Kv Motor Specs Stator Diameter: 18mm Stator Length: 6mm Kv Rating: 2300 Shaft Diameter: 3.0 mm Supported Cells (LiPo): 2S-3S Weight: 18g Idle current: .2A Max Continuous Current: 12A Max Continuous Power: 96W Outside Diameter: 23.0mm Motor Length (without shaft): 18.5mm Recommended Propeller Size: 5-6" Motor Mount: M2 12mm x 16mm 4-hole pattern
Why not to use another FR4 template tied to the other side of the foam? It would avoid so much vibration due to the friction and changes in the speed while cutting, I think ;)
One big advantage of the 'one side' method is that you only need a template on one side, so you don't have to carefully line up anything on the other side. That's how I was able to get three cuts per thickness of the foam instead of two (initially I was making use of the flat side of the airfoil to get it lined up correctly when doing the two-side template method).
In case you missed it the prop was going crooked by up to 5 degrees or so, and a grub screw at the base was loose too. I think these are more of a concern than balancing props :)
You are loosing thrust with that awful banded on propeller,the vibration will wreck your rx in time,fit a proper bolted on prop and you will notice a big difference,fit a bigger motor. Glitch on switching on rx is a bad connection somewhere ,I had the same problem located to a pin on a plug.
Yes I did exactly that prop and motor change in the video... big improvement. All my connections were soldered, they should be fine. Connection problem would not explain why the twitches also happened always after startup, and at fairly regular intervals even when the plane was sitting motionless on the bench.
Yeah, my siblings can do that too, I think it's a hereditary trait. I'm kinda surprised that in four years of filming my hands on CZcams you're the first to mention it :)
No offence Mate, i've been watchnig this a bit drunk, and i thought to myself "Daaamn its unusual!" :) And, by the way very nice channel You have, it is pleasure to watch skilled people with brain as they work and create something. I've done myself some nice devices, but im still lack of proper workshop, but im working on it:) Greetings from Poland!
I absolutely love your commentary/inner monolog. Hearing your thought process is both educating and entertaining. You can tell that when you go to explain it to "us" it helps you understand it yourself. I often play your videos in background while I work on my own planes.
The secret to stable wings is "washout" or "twist"
The idea is to stall the wing in the center (root) first, allowing the wingtips to keep generating lift.
A perfectly flat wing stalls all at once.
There is a little drag penalty, but you can't have everything.
One of the best models I've ever seen. Looking forward to bingeing your channel.
its beautiful.. gliders are very relaxing to watch
Excellent project. That's a much thinner airfoil than I have tried.
keep it u
Drag? CG? Dihederal, like Bruce is saying below... Great build! Thanks for sharing your ideas!
From 30.28min to 40.28 cheek out the cloud in rhe center left of the screen. It goes from a ghost figure with a hat and long nose to an old man walking with a bush long walking pole to a guy taking a golf swing.I know its strange but I had to keep re watching it was amazing.
I like that. Your scratch builds are always awesome and I am inspired by you.
Good honest video, well done, been doing this stuff for a long time and I picked up some things from it. I tried the hand held hotwire for a while and then it got the better of me and I scratch built a CNC hotwire, it took some doing and a while to iron out the bugs but t works well now, very smooth, biggest problem is it's addictive, very addictive, I need more space for all the foam :)
Really fun video ... all in all you did an outstanding job. I was also going to suggest setting the break on the ESC it should kill the prop spin when it's not powered. Also ... if you can't catch it when you land, the break should help with the survivability of the prop.
I'm also impressed with the CNC work you did ... it really added to the overall look of the plane.
Thanks for sharing the build with us ...
cheers, dave
The best way to stiffen a wing made from that foam is to use either modelspan (shoe-box) tissue or very lightweight (0.5 ounce) fibreglass -- applied with water-based polyurethane. The DL50 DLG from Mountain Models has a wing built this way and it was *very* stiff. Plastic film is too "stretchy" to provide much added rigidity.
As it happens I bought some large sheets of tissue to make a little hot-air balloon recently but then couldn't be bothered, and the weather turned to shit. Is there a common brand-name you know of for that water based polyurethane, I presume it's something you can find commonly at Mitre10 and such?
Yeah, but it's expensive in small quantities so bring a bottle over next time you come to Tok... I've got a 10 litre pail of it :-)
Nice effort, like it. Looking forward to version two.
Hello,
First of all I'd like to say that your channel is amazing. Everything that you do makes me question and improve my own building, thank you!
What I always do to get the last bit of covering or packing tape really tight is finish it of with a hot air gun. Be careful though because too much heat and you can start over again.
Keep up the good work and the jokes
A brilliant idea for attachments at 8:08, made from plastic. Nice CAD design work, and CNC production.
Overall great experimentation with building and design techniques
I enjoy your videos. I did quite a bit of HLG flying right before the DLG transition. From your description of pitch feel and the size of the elevator I would recommend a larger surface area and possibly moving the CG back. I would perform a dive test and set it up to barely pull out. As you move the CG back the elevator authority will improve. The key with HLG is to keep off the elevator and fly at a good pace so that you have the control authority to work the thermal. Some of the sudden departures appear to be the the result of pulling on the elevator followed by a stall. Overall great effort, tuning your own design can be lots of fun and is a never ending process.
Yes, you really should do a dive test. CG is very important for the best performance.
I just use a $19.95 iron from The Warehouse. It pays to use a dedicated iron -- unless you want coloured streaks all over your favourite shirts :-)
Esse planador ficou muito bacana, voa bem e um modelo fácil de construir
This is very close to what I built a year or so ago. I got it under 100g without a motor but found that I could craft a good enough wing to sustain a good glide with my methods... Nice work!
Nice work, if you're not vigilant that weight just keeps creeping up doesn't it? Was there a video about that, I might have seen but don't recall. I remember seeing you flew a plane above your school sports field, but that had cameras on it so I doubt that was the 100g build?
Love it man! Very nice project. Maybe throw a cheap all in one fpv cam/transmitter on the front, that thing would be super fun in fpv. I was surprised how much easier my mini glider was to control.
Nice job and I love the phenolic parts. I searched here and no one mentioned this. When your elevator or any control surface moves and then jumps (around 28:01 mins) and no control linkages are hooked up, that usually means the cuts are not straight (or a hinge is not straight - but you didn't use hinges). Always best to make that stab and then cut the elevator off with a straight edge and then you know it's straight. Also, I have to agree that any time you don't have ailerons, you have to have a dihedral or polyhedral wing.
Nice catch on the first flight. :D My experience with prop savers is that they work great at low RPMs, but lose a lot of thrust when they start to vibrate. The current draw goes way up too. Seems like it's hard on everything.
Hi , I have had a go at cutting wings out using the pivot method and found that you have to really pull the wire very tight . I used cardboard as the former guide just for the test cut . I was doing a big flying wing profile too . Great vid . Graham
That was a good watch, cheers!
You would have been better off to add some dihedral to the wing and use rudder/elevator as your controls. All my small DLGs have just rudder/elevator. Dihedral will also give the model more lateral stability which is handy when flying in turbulent conditions -- such as those which exist on the boundary of a thermal.
Yeah, trying it like this has been a good way to understand first-hand why some things are done the way they are. The dihedral would really help with orientation, when I flew this later in the evening I was losing orientation a couple of times per minute, leading to some wild aerobatics - no crash though luckily.
Im thinking the smaller prop would've worked better had it been more solidly mounted, and flat wings or more upswept, since you lose some lift as is.
no idea the laminate covering would added 15g on the wing. hmmm
nice video and I gained some tips in construction :-)
Nice build, very promising! I love the CNC'd pieces.
Maybe setting the ESC break would reduce drag during gliding?
Maybe the rubber band for the elevator should be on the bottom, so that you can always pull up? Currently the wind from the airspeed will push the elevator down and make you dive.
The ESC is supposed to be braking, it just doesn't seem to have the power to actually do it. Hmm not a bad idea about the rubber band...
I think FR4 WOULD MAKE A GOOD SPAR FOR THE WING ON EDGE. LOVED YOUR FR4 BRACKET
Thank you Im stoked to build a glider
If you want cut wire to be without any bends: Lock one side (tie to screw) and put another in drill and turn it slowly. While wire twists it will straighten it self. It will be straight as arrow. Just dont over do it.
The trick for making foam wings IME is to fix the bow (and make sure it's under uncomfortable amounts of tension), and move the wing instead. Slowly.
hmm.. that is a pretty good idea. Then you don't have to stress about keeping the wire tight manually.
Ya. Just build the hotwire like a traditional bow saw, and secure it instead of the wing (which is hard when you want to hotwire both side of the airfoil). What motor are you using? I'd probably go for a ~2kkv quad motor (they tend to be ridiculously better made than the traditional stuff, and put out way more power) with a 6" slow fly prop.
Right. I think I will try a 1306 2300kv next, should have just done that to start with.
Sounds great. Show the results!
++iforce2d -- how much the net weight is ur battery power & the stick RC aircraft. bro? thnks that's all...
I am impressed again by your skills, I have not yet flown anything properly, but I have been watching lots of Flite Test utubes, my newby suggestion is 3 percent up-angle of the motor (my 5 cents)
1 question? what is the name of that clear plastic that you CNCed,? the acryl I have access to is impossible to cnc it just melts.
PS did you watch Experimental Airlines tube about making a DLC from foamboard?
regards from Neal in Norway
It's FR4, a type of fiberglass. For the acrylic melting problem you could try slowing down the spindle a lot (and/or faster feed rate). I was cutting some 1mm acrylic recently and I had to slow the spindle to 1/3 the normal speed. An end mill with less flutes will be better too. The FR4 should be cut with a burr style end mill, not flutes.
Yes, I think I have seen the Experimental airlines video you mention.
Great job on the design and build! Enjoyed it. A few suggestions - I could be wrong but I don’t see any wing incidence at all. Might be causing the instability and inefficiency too. If you do have incidence, add a bit more. Also, your center of lift seems to be below the center of gravity. So either add dihedral or raise the wing higher off the boom or lower the battery, or some combination
Correct, no incidence. But a little trim on the elevator takes care of that, albeit with a small efficiency loss. Yes it might have helped to have the CG a bit lower relative to the wing.
A success... bring it over to Tok!
xjet what is Tok?
The short name for Bruce's awesome flying complex.
How did you cut the mounts ?
edit: Nevermind I just saw the CNC machine
Very cool build. It looked like the elevator control horn was on the bottom of the elevator and the rubber band on the top, so up was only achieved by the tension in the small rubber band. Instead, If the control horn had been on top and the servo pulled the up elevator and the rubber band tension pulled the down elevator, you would have had better pitch authority. (If I saw it correctly)
But well done🙂
dude i love this thing .
where is this ? looks like really nice field on 30:01 i would live to volunteer as your video shooting assistant if i live there XD
Use a hot-air gun to get the covering tight over the holes. Just go easy with it and It will get it nice a tight. A hair dryer might even do the job. It might even fix your bubble problem on your wings. The other thing you can do is apply spray adhesive before covering on foam to help the covering stick to stop it from bubbling when it is flexed.
Think the model is underpowered with a loose and out of balance prop on the power side of things. The center-of-gravity may be slightly too rearward as-is. The wing has drooping anhedral which kills any self-stability, and in combination with narrow small tail-group gives erratic flight. The plane is hunting around. At least move the center-of-gravity slightly foward to reduce the instability.
I think the wing area is fine, but it's a big wing for that tiny motor. The wing plan is that of a glider already. Slight fixes and a slightly bigger motor will fly fine. It's a sound design planform. The CNC work with 1mm frp is awesome. Looking foward to trying your boom mounting design schemes.
Mr. Perfectionist
A small pod for the front components, receiver, batt etc. Then a folding prop and spinner along with ESC braking should give less drag during the glide.
Is the rubberband pull elevator still irregular snap when you adjust for height ?
You made a great wee powered glider. Well done Chris!
There no noticeable snap to the elevator when it's moved by the servo. You can only tell when you move it by hand, because our fingers have very good force-feedback sensors :)
The propeller must be seated properly in the prop-saver, maybe must be reamed to the right diameter otherwise the vibration eats all the power. In the control it seams to have some adverse yaw or it is just me?. Great project by the way, congrats!
awesome mate nice video and nice tutorial
Is the center of gravity over the wings? Looks front heavy
Thanks for good video. Re the twitching - Google 'servos and capacitors' or similar for a solution.
put a springymathing on one (or both) sides of the cutting wire for the foam.
@Iforce2d.
What receiver did you use and how did you hook it up, did you use ppm?
goo.gl/qwMF4s
Not sure if I would buy it again though. It's super tiny and can do PPM and PWM which is nice but I don't like the twitching.
Try an little down thrust on the motor, also check that your CG is not too rearward.
Impressive, really.
You given any thought to a folding prop or did I miss you mentioning that you have? ÷*)
I don't have any folding props at the moment, there is one in the mail but it will be too big for this plane.
very interesting and fun to see!
hope you will improve this model?
(please like some sizes of the model) what rough sizes?
Goodluck,
and greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob.
If I do it again I'll probably try about 1.5m
Also I think you need some aileron differential for turns I think you have an adverse yaw problem with banking.
Where did you buy that kit for the glider ,or did you scratch build it?
I think the title of the video has a clue :)
For efficient flying of such a small glider the model needs to be intrinsically stable, constant control corrections kill glide performance as does yank and bank steering. It seems to me your biggest issue here is not having any dihedral. Even the most advanced DLGs have plenty of dihedral and a powerful rudder. Dihedral and rudder work in unison to give better turns.Take away here is basic modeling skills have been lost or never acquired with the proliferation of ARF and RTF models. Most foamies neglect dihedral because it complicates the simplicity of a tube main spar and tend to use molded in wingtip turnups to impart roll stability. BTW wing area and aspect ratio looked OK to my eye at least and congrats on giving it a go. Plenty learned here so even if it never flys as well as you hoped it will still be a success .
This is my first scratch-built plane (unless you count that silly vtol thing). I have watched a lot of videos so I'm mostly aware of how and why it all works (or doesn't work) but there's nothing like learning first hand why things are typically done the way they are. So far the lack of dihedral has been more a problem for keeping my orientation, I did some more flying in the evening and there were quite a few accidental aerobatics, luckily none resulting in a crash though.
hey, i just bought the same scale on eBay :D
to get your holes use a heat gun and hobbyking to get yous iron
Hi,
I was wondering if you did not make an aerofoil shape, would it still fly ? I remember watching some videos about pizza box flyers,which fly even if there is no aerofoil shape.
A huge thumbs up for your videos ,its amazing how much you contribute to everyone's learning.
Cheers and keep up the brilliant work!!
It would fly but would be a lot less efficient. With a glider you're trying to minimize drag as much as possible.
Is the battery too small?
Ingenius using broken prop as epoxy mixing stick.
If you sandpaper the shiny plastic first then use epoxy it won't pull a part.
good project .... as others have said dihedral is needed and i think the wing is flexing to much. Can i say that flying over trees is not good for lift trees take the lift away in the day and give off heat i.e. lift in the evening.
And red doesn't show the blood! Besides, Gordon (the hairdresser) has claimed the right to use pink at Tokoroa :-)
It's not that bad, the more you do the more we learn
Do you have the plans of the plane?
to much vibration slowing prop down in those first tests....I think a 7x3.5 fits those prop savers
the best also may need alittle more wing incidence. try motor braking see if gliding helps also.great job
Would it have generated more lift if the angle of incidence on the wing was increased a little?
Enjoyable watch, thanks.
Yes, but also more drag, so would need more power. It's all a balancing act :) Turns out the worst feature of this plane is that it was impossible to tell which way it was facing in the twilight, which caused it to get smashed into a tree.
@@iforce2d sorry to hear about the plane, the machining work was first class.
How did you cut the tiny plastic mounting pieces, do you have a mill?
Yes 17:32
czcams.com/video/FYDoDmFMN2o/video.html
I saw as I continued to watch... but you know, some of us don't have access to a CNC mill... well, good luck with your next build.
What wing section did you use?
airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=ag38-il
Hi, what temperature do you laminate your wings with?
It's iron-on covering film, like this
hobbyking.com/en_us/covering-film-transparent-red-5mtr-201.html
oh sorry, what temperature? I have no idea sorry. I just set my iron to 'middle' position :)
Do you have some plans? Can you upload its?
Great video. One criticism: I think your wing is too thin. You could tell by the shakiness at take-off, at low throttle, and at no throttle. You are basically losing a lot of lift due to micro-stalls when your wing is moving slowly or is outside of its favoured angle of attack envelope, which is narrow. That airfoil will perform very well at high speed and at low angle of attack, but it will have terrible stall characteristics at low speed and at high angle of attack. You noticed that it improved significantly with a stronger motor -- that's because that wing will actually be much more stable at a higher speed. A more teardrop-shaped wing will be heavier and have slightly more drag in its favoured envelope, but that envelope will be larger and hence much more robust to your actual flying conditions. A thicker wing will also be easier to see and orient in the sky.
Mike J if it fly it’s more than good . It’s a great built
Your prop is not sitting flat on the hub. Vibration is eating up your power. You should have SOME dihedral, even when using ailerons.
Can u sell me a kit, printed parts and screws. I can make the wing and tail. That's awesome. Was your cg correct or tail heavy,m
Nice project. The rpm was not the same as first tries. Why was that?
Because the prop wasn't sitting straight, pretty sure I mentioned it somewhere along the way.
Nice plane. I think that your rudder/fin is too large for a flat wing plane. There is an optimal size for each dihedral and tail position. Your printed parts were impressive.
Which motor and propeller did you use
I'm wondering motor and battery. My guess is a 1S battery, and maybe a lower KV motor. 2S and a 2300KV motor should have given more than enough thrust on his initial 5030 prop.
What motor did you use
I can’t seem to find you mentioning it anywhere
I think it was this one, can't really recommend it though:
hobbyking.com/en_us/18-11-2000kv-micro-brushless-outrunner-10g.html
What do you think of this one? I can get on Amazon Prime
Armattan MN1804 2300Kv Motor Specs
Stator Diameter: 18mm
Stator Length: 6mm
Kv Rating: 2300
Shaft Diameter: 3.0 mm
Supported Cells (LiPo): 2S-3S
Weight: 18g
Idle current: .2A
Max Continuous Current: 12A
Max Continuous Power: 96W
Outside Diameter: 23.0mm
Motor Length (without shaft): 18.5mm
Recommended Propeller Size: 5-6"
Motor Mount: M2 12mm x 16mm 4-hole pattern
Can't say really, it all depends what you want to do with it....
iforce2d Want to come close to what you did. It’s a great project the wing cutting the balsa cutting it’s just great all around I’m making it
maby you can put a metal peas Vshaped on the iron to heat up and use it
Which battery did you use?
2S 300mAh lipo
Plz make a wing cutting cnc macine..plz
Nice original design..
33:08 Full throttle on a badly balanced lawn mower engine will not get a full size Cessna off the ground.. ;)
use a pin and poke the bubbles and tack it
Not bad
Why not to use another FR4 template tied to the other side of the foam? It would avoid so much vibration due to the friction and changes in the speed while cutting, I think ;)
One big advantage of the 'one side' method is that you only need a template on one side, so you don't have to carefully line up anything on the other side. That's how I was able to get three cuts per thickness of the foam instead of two (initially I was making use of the flat side of the airfoil to get it lined up correctly when doing the two-side template method).
you need to balance the prop and use a much stronger rubber!
In case you missed it the prop was going crooked by up to 5 degrees or so, and a grub screw at the base was loose too. I think these are more of a concern than balancing props :)
are u stilling using the flysky i6x radio
yeah, i6X and i6
"ちょっと懐かしいね"
You are loosing thrust with that awful banded on propeller,the vibration will wreck your rx in time,fit a proper bolted on prop and you will notice a big difference,fit a bigger motor.
Glitch on switching on rx is a bad connection somewhere ,I had the same problem located to a pin on a plug.
Yes I did exactly that prop and motor change in the video... big improvement.
All my connections were soldered, they should be fine. Connection problem would not explain why the twitches also happened always after startup, and at fairly regular intervals even when the plane was sitting motionless on the bench.
props on backwards
nope
I think you'll find a glider has no engine ,hint is in the name ,scratch built plane from glider plans is a better tittle
I think you'll find a motor glider is a glider with a motor, hint is in the name :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_glider
А есть чертеж крепежа крыла и хвоста?
Not any more, sorry :(
My teacher taught us this song in third grade and I still remember it
czcams.com/video/jqpFjsMtCb0/video.html
Yes in Wisconsin USA
Jettison the battery!
I kinda need it to power the servos though :)
Bro, just like In a real aircraft, at slower speeds, your ailerons are non effective, that's why you use your rudder....which you don't have smh
wow I'm sorry for being so stupid. I wish I was smart like you.
your nose is too heavy
Man, your thumbs are bending weird as fuck ;)
Yeah, my siblings can do that too, I think it's a hereditary trait. I'm kinda surprised that in four years of filming my hands on CZcams you're the first to mention it :)
No offence Mate, i've been watchnig this a bit drunk, and i thought to myself "Daaamn its unusual!" :)
And, by the way very nice channel You have, it is pleasure to watch skilled people with brain as they work and create something. I've done myself some nice devices, but im still lack of proper workshop, but im working on it:) Greetings from Poland!