Rear Suspension Overview: Part 3 - Pre-Load
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2015
- Part 3 in our series of tutorial videos that explain how to set up your rear suspension covers Pre-Load.
See a complete listing of videos in this series below.
Rear Suspension Series:
Part 1 - Rear End Alignment
Part 2 - Pinion Angle
Part 3 - Pre-Load
Part 4 - Anti-Roll Bar
Part 5 - Ride Height
Part 6 - Basic 4-Link Settings
The information contained in this video is based on the opinion of Tim McAmis and his 30+ years in the motorsport and manufacturing industries. Any action you take based upon the content provided shall be done at your own risk. TMRC and its affiliates are not liable for any losses and/or damages in connection with the use of this information. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I don't drag race. But I find your knowledge on chassis set up very useful 👍 I've been struggling with a 4 link set up in my drift truck and I wish I would have found your videos sooner. Spent weeks dialing it in.
Tim really knows his stuff and he does a great job of explaining things. However, he is working on a very expensive jig built chassis that is basically perfectly square and all the components are brand new. Most racers that are using CZcams to learn about four links, typically are racing home built cars or something that is not fresh off the jig, myself included. There are many other things that should be taken into account, things that Tim is not covering here. Example, he sets his preload with the rear end hanging, hanging on what? It’s hanging on the shocks. This assumes the shocks are exactly the same length, and all the shock mounting brackets are mounted perfectly the same on both sides, something that is usually not the case on a home built car. Also, I noticed that he didn’t disconnect the rear sway bar when checking preload. I have tons of admiration for Tim and his videos, I just wanted to remind folks that you always have to think about what you yourself are working on and use a little ingenuity and improv, don’t just run with what you’re told without asking “what if?” I grew up building and racing round track cars, cars that get the life beat out of them, so improvising while working with something that is not fresh off the jig is kinda second nature to me. But it still takes a lot of thought. Hope this helps someone.
monnieweb x. Tape measure 101. Square it up and start from neutral. Send it!
Thanks for spending your time to record and post these!
Realy cool Video and the Information. Thanks for this.
Awesome videos! thanks 👍
Great set of videos.
This helps a lot to understand not only have your rear end square to the rear cross member but how to adjust pre load.
I was stuck on my 62 c10 because it already has factory ladder bars but I’m going to be pushing some power and wave it to go straight and reliable.
This is my first time and don’t think it’s going to be as hard as I thought. Lol abs ya I can read a tape measure. 😎
Excellent video! On the preload, can you possibly do a follow up video with dial indicators to see the movement relative to the adjustment bars?
hi tim, nice fab work, where do you get your threaded tube ends
I have double adjustable ladders and its going left on the launch.Im assuming that lengthening the bottom adjuster on the right side is the same as setting negative preload in the right side.By doing this it should put more weight on the drivers tire to get it going back right.If I have this wrong please let me know..thank you
Can you use preload to adjust weight distribution?
Hi Tim, is preload the same as corner weight?
Phil King seems close but not exactly them same as i understand it corner weight is changing spring pressures to get the cars weight to move around this is changing the position of the rear end so that you adjust how much power is applied to each wheel
most cars I see racing go right not left