My man! How many ways can I say thank you? I just installed my new 72v battery and was sad because it was slower than my 60v. The increased power caused stuttering and terrible performance. So, I shunt modded the controller and re-torqued my 3 phase wire nuts. OMG!! My bike is a freaking ROCKET now. 50mph easy and sooo smooth. No more stuttering, just smooth power. Thank you so, so much. I was about to drop 200 on a new controller.
@@E-bikeguy I've been discussing with an e-bike builds global forum within Facebook regarding shunt mod's, and the need for you to add an addendum to your video indicating adding additional cooling to avoid burning up the system quicker... Fans, additional heatsinks, better conductive paste, & maybe about using epc instead of they can't solder.
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If your going to reduce the resistance on the shunt that much its going to run loads more power than it was originally designed, I would beef up the solder tracks like I did on mine or you will pop one of the tracks, It will also reduce the risk of resisance building up on the little FET legs and then cooking a FET as a result. It will also allow for more power and make it go a bit quicker as there is less power being lost through resistance. I basically did what you did with a little 500w controller except I basically just covered pretty much the entire shunt with solder. It is pulling 170 amps (8500w) from the battery and pops wheelies without even having to lean back. Not sure how long it will last though haha!! Luckily I got loads of spare controllers!
Just did this to my son's 1300w Apollo dirtbike and it worked really well! He's so stoked! However, I already ordered the Electro & Company Upgrade Kit for his birthday at the end of the month 🤫 😄
@E-bikeguy Well he can easily wheelie now whereas before the front wheel wouldn't even come off the ground. It's pretty significant. I'll do a top speed test this evening
@E-bikeguy So it goes about 4 to 5 km/h faster. Not bad. This bike has 3 dials so you can adjust the response time, power output and speed. Do you think bypassing this "potentiometer" would result in any gains? (I'm guessing it wouldn't and I'm not even sure how I would bypass it 🤷♂️)
The 'SHUNT MOD' is simple in terms of electronics. I did notice there was rust on the leading edge of the board when you reassembled it. That means there is water ingress on the top of the controller. It would be nice to see someone add a Super Capacitor in parallel to the battery to see what that does for instant performance.
Great idea: adding a "super " capacitor to the input. Can't really say it increases the current output during a hard acceleration, unless you put it on a dyno. But, a stop watch is the next best thing. Since you're dumping more current through the motor windings, they'll be getting hotter. ...may not last as long. Keep an eye on the temps. Imagine having two big hub motor wheels on the rear of a scooter...like a "duallie" more copper to spread out the heat.
There's an ebike with no batteries called pi pop that runs off supercapacitors. It's in its 3rd generation right now pretty cool but its based put of France
It’s important to note that the shunt mod is for enthusiasts who have a stack of controllers or money to buy a new one. The shunt mod merely bypasses the controller’s current limit which which can allow it to fry. Take the 1500w controller, stock. If you connect it to a 1500w motor and go up a long steep hill so that it pulls 1500w for 10 minutes. It will survive because the 18 MOSFETS and heat sink are designed for that. If you shunt mod to 2500w, it will work ok as long as the motor can only pull 2500w for 30 seconds before its up to soeed and the amp draw decreases. But if you go up that same steep hill and it tries to sent 2500w for 10 minutes it will fry. A motor can take higher watts than the continuous rating for longer because if the thermal mass. But a controller only has that small aluminum bar as thermal mass so it takes only seconds to heat up. Its a fun mod to do but people should understand if there were no cons then the manufacturer would do it and charge more money. I added 15% and theres no hills in my area so its pretty conservative. If i get a better controller then i might mod this to +50% just for an experiment before putting the new one on. My Votol EM-30s has no limit in settings. They just say “don’t set amps higher than 32a or it might fry” lol. I guess your Sabvoton has limits in settings but you can unlock it and set it for WARM, BAKE, or BROIL. lol.
You right, I never experience a controller shut down on me also I don't have hills lol but the shunt mod I did to my son's 1000w bike is now on a 3000w hub motor, so far no blows lol
@@E-bikeguy, yes, the 3000w motor is safe in all cases no matter what you do to the controller. But if you mode the controller enough to get 3000w, and then let your big son get on it and tow the 4-wheeler through the grass (enough to actually pull 3000w for 10 minutes), it will fry. On your bike with watts display you can see how it goes to peak watts for just seconds before reaching speed and automatically throttling back. With your small son on his small bike, that 1000 watt controller maybe gave 1500w for a few seconds then back down. I can see that easy on my ebike with Smart BMS and Votol where i can see amps, but my other ebike all I hace is voltage sag to let me know that the controller is easing up. I get about 4v sag when accelerating (15a) and then about 3v sag at 20 mph flat ground no wind. Lol My bike didn’t go faster with the shunt mod. If your son’s bike went faster then something was definitely underpowered or you added a bigger battery with higher voltage or more capacity (less sag at full throttle so more speed). But all these mod increasing current or voltage higher than designed increases the chances that it won’t work for 50 years. Lol
About the bypass part, not exactly. It passes more current than the programming thinks is passing through. I've done two different controllers and you can go to the p14 setting and turn down the max amps. I've turned it down to 5 amps max and it's still quicker than stock but only a little. The other one I turned down to 15 and it's faster than stock. I used less solder on this one so I'm thinking that's what the difference is between the two setting changes to get a similar result. The display I have is the sw900
@@paulmryglod4802 , the ONLY thing a shunt mod does is DECREASE the resistance in the shunt, REDUCING the feedback signal to the controller, making it think its less current than actual. In a non-programmable controller it will simply increase the max current the controller sends. In a programmable controller that has locked max amps, is simply throws the calibration out so that you can give it more current within the calibration range. In a unlocked controller there is no need to screw up the current feedback loop calibration because you can just set it to fry if you want to. But I stand by my statement 100% that if this was 100% safe, the manufacturer would just calibrate it to a higher amps and increase profit. Its quite likely many people will not enter the region of thermal runaway under normal use, but if you live in a mountainous region and climb at full power at max rated voltage and 25% over rated current, never giving the controller time to offload and cool down, it can fry. So a manufacturer leaves a safety buffer in there for extreme conditions. I did raise my generic Chinese controller from 13.6a to 15.6a, but its speed setpoint of 35kph and not a hill for within battery range ensures it will have an offload period. And it’s just a hobby ebike. If i needed to rely on it i would have left all the safety buffer intact. So as I said, its a fun hobbyist thing but if you have money just buy the right controller and everything will be fine. Lol
It’s my first time doing an ebike I’ve done something similar before but not an ebike, I got a 52v 20ah battery and 48v 1000w motor being delivered soon I live on a steep hill with about a 15 degree incline for about 1/2 mile I needed something for work until I past my test
Love your vids i have a 750w victrip titan its a awesome bike but want more power so im going to to this shunt mod i hope i get a little more top speed and torque
Really interesting video sir. I too am a HVAD! 🤓 High Voltage Ampere Dude! I’ve modified my bike a few times. I currently have a 7245 Sabvoton. It is super smooth and hits 45 mph flat out. I recently bought a monster 72200 Sabvoton controller that I’m going to install. But probably will dial it back so it doesn’t fry my 1500w rear direct drive motor. I’m not sure how much current the motor can handle until it busts the magnets loose or smokes the windings? But I’ll probably find out 😂 Maybe I’ll do the shunt mod on the 7245 controller and see what improvement I get before trying my new 72200. Thanks man appreciate your work. Peace Prospector Tripp
Thank you the 7245 controller is awesome and my son's bike is a 1500w and I have a 80a controller in it but also pretty light too he gets a new controller next month tho but the 72200 will be a beast of a controller for it's size
If you want to protect your motor, you should try adding fuerofluid to it. The magnetic fluid will coat the magnets and keep it cooler. I don't know the suppliers' link, but it's a bike shop in Oregon and they have a CZcams channel. Just put fuerofluid in the search bar.
Im thinking of doing this to my eahora Cupid. The company ofcourse told me not to shunt mod or even remove the speed limiter. They said doing either would fry the bike. Can you please give me your input on doing both?
i think you have freego models in your country too im thankful for all help i can get, even the wiers fried in upphills we talking abot 45 degrees upphil long way like 5 km
Do you have issues with lack of throttle sensitivity after a shunt mod? Like is it harder to creep with the throttle, does it end up feeling more "on and off"?
No. It's the same on throttle input but more phase current to the motor, my son had one for a while. We sold the controller and still going so there is no like on/off so you good on that front
Another GREAT video Bro. Keep up the tutorials so that the ebike community can become more Educated..... I plan on doing the shut mod, but should I add more thermal past to help with cooling??? What are your thoughts on that?
@@E-bikeguyHow is it that by just soldering the top of the those three Shunts you are going to increase the power, being that shunts are practically resisters, and the solder connectors are still connected from A to B on the mother board, my common sense would be that you desolder and remove the shunts altogether, and run a heavy gauge wire from A to B from the mother board base, please correct me if i'm wrong, and why would your way of doing it work as well?
@alexshatner3907 that's also a good idea but I think the why people just solder is it too much work lowland it just easier just to blob some solder on top of the sunts
@@E-bikeguy E-bike guy I need you help in solving a problem, I went ahead and soldered a thick wire from behind the motherboard, bypassing the shunts, Yes the scooter took off like a rocket, but only lasted 30 seconds and the controller smelled like burnt,and died what did I do wrong?
Hey man I need some advice what comtroller should I buy for my 2019 widewheel dual moter as I feel like 1000w of miter should be faster but my aovo is faster than it what would you recommend and does any 48v controller work with it many thanks
@@E-bikeguy Oh damn that no good, could I also change the controller to give it more power I currently have a 750 controller in it could i change that for like a 1000w without changing the motor or that doesn't work?
any chance you got the make/model/wiring diagram for this controller? i bought one used just like that board from ebay and all the wires were cut. i cant find any diagrams online for this board and your video is all i have found with this board at all.
@@E-bikeguy any chance you remember the wiring? i pocked around and found that crossing x pin to ground seems to be regen so i soldered a wire on and ran it out the box. got most wires figured out but would like to be sure before using it. did you have this connected to a display?
My controller gets pretty warm more hot than warm. If I put it in a waterproof controller bag, would that make it hotter ? And it connector wires would go in the bag also.
Yes, if you fell like your controller is getting hot then definitely don't put no bag over it, find out why it's getting hot, they get warm under heavy load but hot no. You need a bigger controller
Do you have any experience with controllers for Aventon aventure? I’m going on over 2500 miles on my E bike I would like more power. Thank you for your channel.
What colour of wire should you disconnect/cut to remove the SPEED-LIMITATION inside a controller. I have singularly SCREWED down BLUE, YELLOW, GREEN, Main HUB ? Wires...then Lots of Finer little wires ?....Thanks.....
While you're in the controller, I'd clean off all that extremely cheap white thermal paste and apply some quality thermal compound (aka thermal interface material (TIM)). It will make a huge difference in the amount of heat transfered from the MOSFETS heatsink to the case. If they used white paste gunk between the MOSFETS and the heatsink, I'd replace that with quality TIM as well. The white compound used on many controllers is about the cheapest possible...to keep down manufacturing costs of course. Check out comparison articles on thermal compounds used with computer processors.
I recommend "Noctua NT-H2"...paste will last in the tube for years NT-H1 and Arctic MX-4 are cheaper and work very well too Just avoid everything liquid metal. These will short your components and kill your controller
I’m not noticing very much difference than before using a 1200w controller my bike is really heavy though seeing a little difference in battery drain. Maybe add more solder?
Thanks one of my controller went bad because of the shunting. I recently did a 35amp controller it gave me more power top speed longer and one to two mph faster. 1500 watts e-bike controller
How bad does it affect the life of the battery also since it’s only for torque if I keep it at the same speed does it still waste more battery life or only when I punch it
I have an Evercross H9 with the 14ah battery with 800 watts they changed the trigger speedometer to a top mount model with Bluetooth and a thumb throttle and I'm wondering if there is a controller I can put in it to give it more power than it's 28 mph limit, the motor is barely working you can feel it, it could move that alot faster. If I sent the controller to you could you modify it? Is there an email address we can talk about price..
This really works, too much so in my case. I had a 2kw battery and an un-modded 1kw e-bike kit, and it worked fine. I did this mod (and also added thermal paste to the MOSFETS because my esc didn’t have any for some reason?) and it had enough torque to spin the axle and short out all of the wires, which killed the esc.
Hi I done the shunt I was told it could burn components out anyway I found alot of torgue after it blush fuse I had 30amp so I put 35amp but I thought I would check the solder and took a little of asci wess doing that I caught a mosfet it still ran but power was just a little less I'm getting another controller same one I did buy 45amp controller for 2000wat it's serpose to do 50mph I got less than that I think the upgrade on the old controller was better 35+2 amp so have you had any both of it burning out thanks
@@E-bikeguy hi thanks I did do it the torgue was great power great second day blew a fuse yes I nipped the bars together then solder top. I thought I would scrap more solder of when doing this I caught a mosfet tiny spark I new it gad blow it still works but not so good I've just got new one today I'm doing it again and I will use 35amp. Yes I bought 45amp 53mph but I find the PAS isn't the way it should be and power drops with Wight of me 12stone. I find the sw900lcd crap the other one for my old controller far better. So that's a job today trouble is weather England no good for eltric bikes california ammrica best for bikes thanks or was the controller fie a 1500wat its the same on 2000wat
@@E-bikeguy My friend, it doesn’t gonna blow up my motor?... I forgot to say that mine is a go kart motor, not a hub one. I have a 3000w 72v wich is of 45A, but my controller and my battery will give it 60A, there’s no problem if the controller and the battery gives 60A instead 45A? 😰 Thank you a lot for response 🙏🏽
Trying to get more out of my Philodo H8. Only getting 29mph out of it. Supposedly this bike has 2 1000w motors which are stamped on the motors but what makes me wonder is why they used 22amp controllers on this bike one for front and one for back. Also they have disabled the ability to even see the current draw and RPMs from display. Still I’d like to try and get more out of this bike. It is however better imo than the Aventon Aventure I sold to purchase the Philodo H8 AWD.
I have the same ebike and I am also contemplating a shunt-mod, but I really want to use a heavy duty switch or relay to cut it on and off. I may experiment with moding the front controller first to test, but if both controllers will take the mod...we'll be doing like 40mph!
@@E-bikeguy Have you looked inside to see if there is a shunt ? I have a 72200 and have the unlock software but it don't work, was hoping to shunt mod it to give it a boost. with my QS 205 5T motor I can only reach 30mph on a 58v battery but it is capable of 400amps continuous and 800amps for 10 second bursts. I also have a QS 205 3.5T in the shed that is busted and will fix it for the spring so if I cant mod the controller I will switch to this motor and upgrade the battery to 74v but I will miss out on the 3.5T torque as I live in a hilly area.
Ever thought of modifying the star to delta motor configuration? Also, what about using vesc 72200? The problem with that mod is u risk burning your motor....
Hi. i have a 2000 watt 48v 23AH e bike. One controller 27 AH for each motor. Do I shunt mod each controller? Or just one? Please let me know, Thank you.
Is this the fame with famex 2000w controler i currently have a 48v battery hooked up and im wanting to ad another 48for more power tho only have a 2000w controler will this work to make it faster ?
Hurricane coming our way here is So Cal or San Diego where im at in a few E. I know I wont be able to ride e bike this time. Medium rain a bit a stretch Ive been riding thru last storm but this mthrfckr a hurricane.?! You know the haps on these events on monthly basis. Its going to be bad hah?
Very cool, does this mod keep the watts at full power when the bike reaches top speed, one of my bikes has a controller that drops off power at around 30mph, thanks
@@E-bikeguy thanks for getting back to me bro. I pulled it apart. Nothing looks bad. Nothing smells bad. I don't know., I hooked everything back up but nothing 😭 I ordered a new controller. I was just hoping this one was still good.
Hi, grate video. Just a quick question, method to my madness some of them bored have a different way its like a small micro fuse and u solder a small bit of wire on for more power to trick it to get more speed/acceleration, if you was to soldered a thick bit of copper on top of thm three wouldn't that let even more power through or all it can. So if I use a thin bit of wire 0.3 24awg/ 0.5 copper wire or a thicker bit of wire 1.5 18awg/2.0 copper wire. Would the thinner bit of wire let less amps or less currant through will only do a little bit more top speed/acceleration, as a thicker bit of wire will allow more amps or current to flow through giving more power to motor for more top speed/acceleration am I right in thinking that or am I wrong?????🤔🤔🤔👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👊👊👊
@@E-bikeguy cos the micro fuse only let's so much power through there for restricting the top speed/acceleration. I would of thought the thicker the piece of wire the more power/amps can flow through it and the thin bit will only allow a little bit of power/amps to flow. 🤔🤯😲🤣🤔🤔👍👍👊
Was hoping i can shunt my controller since it seens to be a unique controller to the brand i bought and there isn't any i can find that would fit any of my existing wiring. Mine has a 10pin main line, 3 pin sensor, 4 pin tail light, and a triangle 3 pin motor cable. Open up the controller casing and it is filled with silicone so its impossible to take out the pcb without cutting the aluminum case. This is really frustrating because this bike can do so much more than the 25mph its limited to. It has a 750w rear hub with 90nm of torque. 48v 15ah battery but the controller is limited to 20amp only. If only i can shunt it and get it to at least 32mph, i would be happy.
@@E-bikeguy it is. Think I already messed something up by trying to push it out with a metal flat screw driver. It slipped under the PCB and touched something on the corner and it sparked. Now my left handbrake (front wheel) won't trigger my brake light. If you have any idea what controller (30a) would work with the Puckipuppy Hummingbird, would really appreciate it. Thanks.
Yo, great vid! Quick question ; I want to do work commutes and play around a bit. I'm 300 pounds, and want to add a hub to my mountain bike. What is the best bang for buck right now? I want to do 30 to 40 mph minimum. I have a 26" rim with 100mm front and 135mm rear axle. Any suggestions? I'm thinking a 2000w kit.
do you know much about the vivi china made bikes and controllers? Can I just unplug a connection in the controller to bypass the speed control feature?
I recently did a shunt mod on my 35 amp 52 volt kt controller. It took a few attempts, but eventually (after adding a lot more solder and applying more heat to the shunts) it worked. I reckon the acceleration (torque) on my 2kw rear hub has increased by around 20 - 30 percent (maybe more).... And equally the battery drains at the same increase! Ha, obviously. No gain without pain. That's physics. I'm glad I risked doing the mod (I do have a spare controller though, in case it didn't work). It could have melted everything for all I knew, but it seems to be fine. However, I'm not sure how much the faster discharge will affect the battery? Does anyone know? I can now zoom up hills at 25 mph whereas before the mod I could only do 17 mph on the same hill. The cruising speed has gone up to 39 mph from 36 mph. Ha, cars are now getting in MY way. I'm overtaking cars on a bicycle. Love it
@@E-bikeguyQuick question boss, I have a 48v 800w scooter i injected statorade and put heat sinks around my rear wheel to help with cooling my motor quicker I ride pretty responsible if i shout mod my factory controller will it burn out my mosfets and how should i ride to stay safe..
@@E-bikeguy any luck buddy all i no is the resistor is a R005. And I want to put 1 on top to half the ohm risistence. But I don't no what watt to pic thay offer 1 w 2 w 3w
@user-ut1fs4kv3z no luck here I was wondering if you knew the name of the controller because I really don't know, but the shunts are resistors also. But the r005 is a resistors but it also tells me that the controller is very small
Hey man I was wondering if you could help me just got a nbpower 5000w hub motor and it doesn’t spin freely . It’s not locked up or anything and if I spin it with my hand it will spin okay but it just feels like something it dragging and it makes a some humming noise ????? Do you know what that could b or how to fix it or maybe I need to give it a hall test
Yes my 273 also humming when I spin it but if it's hard to spin make sure the phase wires are not touching each other but due to the strong magnet there will be se resistance
Okay cause I have a 3000w and it just spins freely but yea when I touch the phase wires it’s way to hard to spin … so what I’m a feeling on my hub motor for the 5k is okay and damn bro you r the best thank you 🙏 so much for getting back to me !!! 🎉
So it’s okay that it’s not spinning freely and has a small little drag to it and I haven’t got my new controller but I was gonna ride like 3 miles and if it gets super hot then I think something is prob wrong ??? Right
Wish someone would do a shunt mod to a bafang internal controller. Just saying. Oh yea, I did get the cable for changing settings, but you need an older version than windows 10 to work. Waisted 20 bucks
Hey man question i have a 1500watt kit in my fat bike . Will that be the same controller? Also my controller had 2 blue wires the manual says if they are connected together i can only get 50% power but if I disconnect i can get full power , is that what they doing now to avoid people soldering the shunt together? Or we can even do the soldering shunt and get more out of it ? Also can we ad another battery together to have 2 for more range ?
Ok good question, my answer is yes, you can add a second battery for more range also power, yes the blue wire if connected will restrict to 750w to comply with the law and doing a shunt mod will have more power blue wire will have no effect its just safety and law concern
Ohh ok i just bought this kit and it was pretty expensive im afraid of loosing warranty if i try to open it up lol The seller says this is a 48v 17 amps battery If i do the shunt mode won’t kill this battery right?
Thanks for you fast reply too My son is 17 and he also wants to get an electrical kit like me , he has a cruising bike with 80cc ebay kit engine there and he can’t keep up with my fat tire bike Top Speed i had have it in a fully charged batt is 36 mph with 215pounds and fat tire bike are heavy but my son the weights 170 had this bike at 40mph
Hello i have a QMWHEEL V20 fatbike, what i want exact, is that the bike will be limited at 5kmh with just the trottle and that with peddle it goes 25kmh, but only the trottle max speed 5kmh, now in stage 1 just the trottle does 10kmh and that is illigal in the Netherlands, the rule is just 5kmh so i want put a switch on it, or a electric responder key or codes or something that it just goes 45kmh (what it can ride now max speed) when I want, and when I press the key or switch that I just can limeted the trottle at 5kmh but that you can paddle and trottle together the max can be 25kmh, but only pressing the trottle and no peddle can be max 5kmh.. and top speed 25kmh with peddle and trottle but the trottle need to stop at 5kmh, the controller is from dongguan jing hui I hope that I have explained it well if you need more info or something please let me know
Wow, didnt know it was this easy.. Thanks Boss you saved all of us some dollars.
No problem 😊
Great video it showed me exactly what a shunt mod was and the process it entails. ❤
Nice tutorial thanks bud 👍🏻
My man! How many ways can I say thank you? I just installed my new 72v battery and was sad because it was slower than my 60v. The increased power caused stuttering and terrible performance. So, I shunt modded the controller and re-torqued my 3 phase wire nuts. OMG!! My bike is a freaking ROCKET now. 50mph easy and sooo smooth. No more stuttering, just smooth power. Thank you so, so much. I was about to drop 200 on a new controller.
Wow I'm glad you got it sorted out, I'm just thankful for the video to help you out
You are talent ! Ty. I picked up everything u laid down, easily ! I want to know u personally & wish more like u !
Thank you, I just got your comment !!!
@@E-bikeguy I've been discussing with an e-bike builds global forum within Facebook regarding shunt mod's, and the need for you to add an addendum to your video indicating adding additional cooling to avoid burning up the system quicker... Fans, additional heatsinks, better conductive paste, & maybe about using epc instead of they can't solder.
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@@kevinward2924What is epc?
Keep the content coming💪
You bet!!!!
I have 2000w motor 50 amps controller and 48v with 24a battery if i do that shunt there is any chance of having problems like burn something?
Hi brother I buy new controllers but is small latency in the Throttle speed what you think is if you know
Thanks for this 👌👍
No problem 😊
If your going to reduce the resistance on the shunt that much its going to run loads more power than it was originally designed, I would beef up the solder tracks like I did on mine or you will pop one of the tracks, It will also reduce the risk of resisance building up on the little FET legs and then cooking a FET as a result. It will also allow for more power and make it go a bit quicker as there is less power being lost through resistance.
I basically did what you did with a little 500w controller except I basically just covered pretty much the entire shunt with solder. It is pulling 170 amps (8500w) from the battery and pops wheelies without even having to lean back. Not sure how long it will last though haha!! Luckily I got loads of spare controllers!
Just did this to my son's 1300w Apollo dirtbike and it worked really well! He's so stoked! However, I already ordered the Electro & Company Upgrade Kit for his birthday at the end of the month 🤫 😄
Nice, how much power did your son noticed after the shunt mod
@E-bikeguy Well he can easily wheelie now whereas before the front wheel wouldn't even come off the ground. It's pretty significant. I'll do a top speed test this evening
Heck yeah, let me know how it comes out
@E-bikeguy So it goes about 4 to 5 km/h faster. Not bad. This bike has 3 dials so you can adjust the response time, power output and speed. Do you think bypassing this "potentiometer" would result in any gains? (I'm guessing it wouldn't and I'm not even sure how I would bypass it 🤷♂️)
The 'SHUNT MOD' is simple in terms of electronics. I did notice there was rust on the leading edge of the board when you reassembled it. That means there is water ingress on the top of the controller.
It would be nice to see someone add a Super Capacitor in parallel to the battery to see what that does for instant performance.
Great idea: adding a "super " capacitor to the input. Can't really say it increases the current output during a hard acceleration, unless you put it on a dyno. But, a stop watch is the next best thing. Since you're dumping more current through the motor windings, they'll be getting hotter. ...may not last as long. Keep an eye on the temps. Imagine having two big hub motor wheels on the rear of a scooter...like a "duallie" more copper to spread out the heat.
There's an ebike with no batteries called pi pop that runs off supercapacitors. It's in its 3rd generation right now pretty cool but its based put of France
Yo my man thank you so much my motorcycle jams now bro..thank you thank you
No problem 😊
how many volt do motor tolerate 96v?
It’s important to note that the shunt mod is for enthusiasts who have a stack of controllers or money to buy a new one. The shunt mod merely bypasses the controller’s current limit which which can allow it to fry.
Take the 1500w controller, stock. If you connect it to a 1500w motor and go up a long steep hill so that it pulls 1500w for 10 minutes. It will survive because the 18 MOSFETS and heat sink are designed for that.
If you shunt mod to 2500w, it will work ok as long as the motor can only pull 2500w for 30 seconds before its up to soeed and the amp draw decreases. But if you go up that same steep hill and it tries to sent 2500w for 10 minutes it will fry.
A motor can take higher watts than the continuous rating for longer because if the thermal mass. But a controller only has that small aluminum bar as thermal mass so it takes only seconds to heat up.
Its a fun mod to do but people should understand if there were no cons then the manufacturer would do it and charge more money.
I added 15% and theres no hills in my area so its pretty conservative. If i get a better controller then i might mod this to +50% just for an experiment before putting the new one on.
My Votol EM-30s has no limit in settings. They just say “don’t set amps higher than 32a or it might fry” lol. I guess your Sabvoton has limits in settings but you can unlock it and set it for WARM, BAKE, or BROIL. lol.
You right, I never experience a controller shut down on me also I don't have hills lol but the shunt mod I did to my son's 1000w bike is now on a 3000w hub motor, so far no blows lol
@@E-bikeguy, yes, the 3000w motor is safe in all cases no matter what you do to the controller. But if you mode the controller enough to get 3000w, and then let your big son get on it and tow the 4-wheeler through the grass (enough to actually pull 3000w for 10 minutes), it will fry.
On your bike with watts display you can see how it goes to peak watts for just seconds before reaching speed and automatically throttling back. With your small son on his small bike, that 1000 watt controller maybe gave 1500w for a few seconds then back down.
I can see that easy on my ebike with Smart BMS and Votol where i can see amps, but my other ebike all I hace is voltage sag to let me know that the controller is easing up. I get about 4v sag when accelerating (15a) and then about 3v sag at 20 mph flat ground no wind. Lol
My bike didn’t go faster with the shunt mod. If your son’s bike went faster then something was definitely underpowered or you added a bigger battery with higher voltage or more capacity (less sag at full throttle so more speed).
But all these mod increasing current or voltage higher than designed increases the chances that it won’t work for 50 years. Lol
About the bypass part, not exactly. It passes more current than the programming thinks is passing through. I've done two different controllers and you can go to the p14 setting and turn down the max amps. I've turned it down to 5 amps max and it's still quicker than stock but only a little. The other one I turned down to 15 and it's faster than stock. I used less solder on this one so I'm thinking that's what the difference is between the two setting changes to get a similar result. The display I have is the sw900
@@paulmryglod4802 , the ONLY thing a shunt mod does is DECREASE the resistance in the shunt, REDUCING the feedback signal to the controller, making it think its less current than actual.
In a non-programmable controller it will simply increase the max current the controller sends.
In a programmable controller that has locked max amps, is simply throws the calibration out so that you can give it more current within the calibration range.
In a unlocked controller there is no need to screw up the current feedback loop calibration because you can just set it to fry if you want to.
But I stand by my statement 100% that if this was 100% safe, the manufacturer would just calibrate it to a higher amps and increase profit. Its quite likely many people will not enter the region of thermal runaway under normal use, but if you live in a mountainous region and climb at full power at max rated voltage and 25% over rated current, never giving the controller time to offload and cool down, it can fry.
So a manufacturer leaves a safety buffer in there for extreme conditions.
I did raise my generic Chinese controller from 13.6a to 15.6a, but its speed setpoint of 35kph and not a hill for within battery range ensures it will have an offload period. And it’s just a hobby ebike. If i needed to rely on it i would have left all the safety buffer intact.
So as I said, its a fun hobbyist thing but if you have money just buy the right controller and everything will be fine. Lol
It’s my first time doing an ebike I’ve done something similar before but not an ebike, I got a 52v 20ah battery and 48v 1000w motor being delivered soon I live on a steep hill with about a 15 degree incline for about 1/2 mile I needed something for work until I past my test
Love your vids i have a 750w victrip titan its a awesome bike but want more power so im going to to this shunt mod i hope i get a little more top speed and torque
Yes you definitely will notice a improvement
@@E-bikeguy thank you I appreciate it
i know but if had send you amoney to uppgrade parts, more torque batterys , etc ,,im little afraid the shunt get the bad wish controller hot
Really interesting video sir.
I too am a HVAD! 🤓
High Voltage Ampere Dude!
I’ve modified my bike a few times. I currently have a 7245 Sabvoton. It is super smooth and hits 45 mph flat out. I recently bought a monster 72200 Sabvoton controller that I’m going to install. But probably will dial it back so it doesn’t fry my 1500w rear direct drive motor. I’m not sure how much current the motor can handle until it busts the magnets loose or smokes the windings? But I’ll probably find out 😂
Maybe I’ll do the shunt mod on the 7245 controller and see what improvement I get before trying my new 72200.
Thanks man appreciate your work.
Peace Prospector Tripp
Thank you the 7245 controller is awesome and my son's bike is a 1500w and I have a 80a controller in it but also pretty light too he gets a new controller next month tho but the 72200 will be a beast of a controller for it's size
If you want to protect your motor, you should try adding fuerofluid to it. The magnetic fluid will coat the magnets and keep it cooler. I don't know the suppliers' link, but it's a bike shop in Oregon and they have a CZcams channel. Just put fuerofluid in the search bar.
Do you every use potting resin in the controllers to help with additional heat ? have you ever had a controller go out/burn up after a shunt mod ?
No, I actually did a sunt mod on the benxi seeker24 no issues
any tips to make dmhc controller to use more power???
Thanks!
Im thinking of doing this to my eahora Cupid. The company ofcourse told me not to shunt mod or even remove the speed limiter. They said doing either would fry the bike. Can you please give me your input on doing both?
You ok , I preformed a sunt mod on the stock controller and it runs fine , till the owner wanted to go faster lol
Brilliant, thanks :)
No problem 💯👊
Thanks, I will try this
Thanknyou so much, it works too
Thank you
No problem my friend!!!!😁
i think you have freego models in your country too im thankful for all help i can get, even the wiers fried in upphills we talking abot 45 degrees upphil long way like 5 km
Oh wow yes we hardly have hills here lol
Do you have issues with lack of throttle sensitivity after a shunt mod? Like is it harder to creep with the throttle, does it end up feeling more "on and off"?
No. It's the same on throttle input but more phase current to the motor, my son had one for a while. We sold the controller and still going so there is no like on/off so you good on that front
Another GREAT video Bro. Keep up the tutorials so that the ebike community can become more Educated..... I plan on doing the shut mod, but should I add more thermal past to help with cooling??? What are your thoughts on that?
Not much tho. But thermal paste do help with heat transfer but if you don't have none on the bar to heatsink then add some
@@E-bikeguyHow is it that by just soldering the top of the those three Shunts you are going to increase the power, being that shunts are practically resisters, and the solder connectors are still connected from A to B on the mother board, my common sense would be that you desolder and remove the shunts altogether, and run a heavy gauge wire from A to B from the mother board base, please correct me if i'm wrong, and why would your way of doing it work as well?
@alexshatner3907 that's also a good idea but I think the why people just solder is it too much work lowland it just easier just to blob some solder on top of the sunts
@@E-bikeguy E-bike guy I need you help in solving a problem, I went ahead and soldered a thick wire from behind the motherboard, bypassing the shunts, Yes the scooter took off like a rocket, but only lasted 30 seconds and the controller smelled like burnt,and died what did I do wrong?
@@alexshatner3907 hum nothing really it only add just a Lil performance to your scooter but nothing more I don't think it short out on ya
Hey man I need some advice what comtroller should I buy for my 2019 widewheel dual moter as I feel like 1000w of miter should be faster but my aovo is faster than it what would you recommend and does any 48v controller work with it many thanks
Ok nice, let me look at a few things and point you in the right direction
Yo wassup, I have a question I have a engwe ep 2 pro fatbike 750 watt version. I want to make it go faster what could I do to make it faster?
Well a shunt mod will make it go faster but it is not recommended because I burned up a controller in the engwe Engine pro 2
@@E-bikeguy Oh damn that no good, could I also change the controller to give it more power I currently have a 750 controller in it could i change that for like a 1000w without changing the motor or that doesn't work?
@@Veruva yes, just a little more power
@@E-bikeguy So if I change controller I won't also have to change the brushless motor right?
will this work for the fiido d11 controller?
Yes it will
Good job man , I was wondering about the amount of shunts you answered my question without me asking
Lol ok,,,glad it helped you out
any chance you got the make/model/wiring diagram for this controller? i bought one used just like that board from ebay and all the wires were cut. i cant find any diagrams online for this board and your video is all i have found with this board at all.
No I don't I actually sold it like 8 months ago guy just made a offer I can't refuse
@@E-bikeguy any chance you remember the wiring? i pocked around and found that crossing x pin to ground seems to be regen so i soldered a wire on and ran it out the box. got most wires figured out but would like to be sure before using it. did you have this connected to a display?
My controller gets pretty warm more hot than warm. If I put it in a waterproof controller bag, would that make it hotter ? And it connector wires would go in the bag also.
Yes, if you fell like your controller is getting hot then definitely don't put no bag over it, find out why it's getting hot, they get warm under heavy load but hot no. You need a bigger controller
Do you have any experience with controllers for Aventon aventure? I’m going on over 2500 miles on my E bike I would like more power. Thank you for your channel.
Not really, I need to get my hands on one for comparison 🤔
The blue stuff on the screws is not thermal paste. It is thread locker so the screws do not loosen from vibrations.
It had some thermal paste on it. It's hard to see, some of them did
Dang good question 🤔
What colour of wire should you disconnect/cut to remove the SPEED-LIMITATION inside a controller. I have singularly SCREWED down BLUE, YELLOW, GREEN, Main HUB ? Wires...then Lots of Finer little wires ?....Thanks.....
@@XOLKEVxbecause that side cover screws to the Mos-Fet bar
@stone-islay..74.50 generally if there is one it's a loop and you snip it
thats a clean solder👍
While you're in the controller, I'd clean off all that extremely cheap white thermal paste and apply some quality thermal compound (aka thermal interface material (TIM)). It will make a huge difference in the amount of heat transfered from the MOSFETS heatsink to the case.
If they used white paste gunk between the MOSFETS and the heatsink, I'd replace that with quality TIM as well. The white compound used on many controllers is about the cheapest possible...to keep down manufacturing costs of course.
Check out comparison articles on thermal compounds used with computer processors.
I recommend "Noctua NT-H2"...paste will last in the tube for years
NT-H1 and Arctic MX-4 are cheaper and work very well too
Just avoid everything liquid metal. These will short your components and kill your controller
Hey! Will this work with a Ridster q20?
I believe so!
Would this work on a rattan pathfind st? Or would i be better off trying to find some kit that would fit the frame?
Well I would try the shunt mod first, free performance but see if you controller have a sunt
I’m not noticing very much difference than before using a 1200w controller my bike is really heavy though seeing a little difference in battery drain. Maybe add more solder?
The amount of solder does nothing. It's just there to make a good connection between those shunts.
Thanks one of my controller went bad because of the shunting. I recently did a 35amp controller it gave me more power top speed longer and one to two mph faster. 1500 watts e-bike controller
So if I change from a 48 volt battery to a 60 volt battery that will increase top end speed? With this sunt modification?
Yes higher voltage will increase top speed
Great stuff, thanks for sharing.
No problem 😊
How bad does it affect the life of the battery also since it’s only for torque if I keep it at the same speed does it still waste more battery life or only when I punch it
Only if you hard on throttle or going up hills will you see a decrease in range
I have an Evercross H9 with the 14ah battery with 800 watts they changed the trigger speedometer to a top mount model with Bluetooth and a thumb throttle and I'm wondering if there is a controller I can put in it to give it more power than it's 28 mph limit, the motor is barely working you can feel it, it could move that alot faster. If I sent the controller to you could you modify it? Is there an email address we can talk about price..
thanks for the tutorial. uF means microfarad
No problem, and i know my dad Is a tv repair guy
This really works, too much so in my case. I had a 2kw battery and an un-modded 1kw e-bike kit, and it worked fine. I did this mod (and also added thermal paste to the MOSFETS because my esc didn’t have any for some reason?) and it had enough torque to spin the axle and short out all of the wires, which killed the esc.
Oh man sorry to hear that, will you be able to repair it
@@E-bikeguy
I ordered another esc
Hi I done the shunt I was told it could burn components out anyway I found alot of torgue after it blush fuse I had 30amp so I put 35amp but I thought I would check the solder and took a little of asci wess doing that I caught a mosfet it still ran but power was just a little less I'm getting another controller same one I did buy 45amp controller for 2000wat it's serpose to do 50mph I got less than that I think the upgrade on the old controller was better 35+2 amp so have you had any both of it burning out thanks
No, in fact, I sold it to a customer and its working great, there are some risk in doing a sunt mod to a controller but rare.
@@E-bikeguy hi thanks I did do it the torgue was great power great second day blew a fuse yes I nipped the bars together then solder top. I thought I would scrap more solder of when doing this I caught a mosfet tiny spark I new it gad blow it still works but not so good I've just got new one today I'm doing it again and I will use 35amp. Yes I bought 45amp 53mph but I find the PAS isn't the way it should be and power drops with Wight of me 12stone. I find the sw900lcd crap the other one for my old controller far better. So that's a job today trouble is weather England no good for eltric bikes california ammrica best for bikes thanks or was the controller fie a 1500wat its the same on 2000wat
My friend, cai I put a 72v 3000w 60A controller on a 72v 3000w 45A motor ?
Yes, you sure can
@@E-bikeguy My friend, it doesn’t gonna blow up my motor?... I forgot to say that mine is a go kart motor, not a hub one.
I have a 3000w 72v wich is of 45A, but my controller and my battery will give it 60A, there’s no problem if the controller and the battery gives 60A instead 45A? 😰
Thank you a lot for response 🙏🏽
Does not gonna blow up my hall sensor if I put 60A in the 45A motor ? 🥺
@@emilianotaboada255 you will be ok, trust me
Trying to get more out of my Philodo H8. Only getting 29mph out of it. Supposedly this bike has 2 1000w motors which are stamped on the motors but what makes me wonder is why they used 22amp controllers on this bike one for front and one for back. Also they have disabled the ability to even see the current draw and RPMs from display. Still I’d like to try and get more out of this bike. It is however better imo than the Aventon Aventure I sold to purchase the Philodo H8 AWD.
Interested, two 1000w motor should at least have 45amp controllers
I have the same ebike and I am also contemplating a shunt-mod, but I really want to use a heavy duty switch or relay to cut it on and off. I may experiment with moding the front controller first to test, but if both controllers will take the mod...we'll be doing like 40mph!
@Brent Polk yes it will I have a braker on my bike ill send you a link
I got a E fly bike 7 with a 60v lithium battery, what controller can I use to make it faster and stronger?
I recommend a sabvoton 7260 controller
Have you done this or planning to do this with your sabvoton controllers ? If you have done it already what was the outcome?
No, I haven't done this to the sabvoton controller, there is really no need to where you can get them unlocked for more power
@@E-bikeguy Have you looked inside to see if there is a shunt ? I have a 72200 and have the unlock software but it don't work, was hoping to shunt mod it to give it a boost. with my QS 205 5T motor I can only reach 30mph on a 58v battery but it is capable of 400amps continuous and 800amps for 10 second bursts.
I also have a QS 205 3.5T in the shed that is busted and will fix it for the spring so if I cant mod the controller I will switch to this motor and upgrade the battery to 74v but I will miss out on the 3.5T torque as I live in a hilly area.
@9 Mile Roar I did look in the controller but there is no shunt inside it. But I'm going with a fardriver controller soon
@@E-bikeguy Wow funny coincidence I was thinking the same thing yesterday, lets's do this 😎
Heck yeah🙃
Hi bro thanks for videos I have questions when the controller is super hot what is the problem the battery or ?
Not necessarily the battery, could be not enough ventilation or a big load on controller and possibly over voltage
@E-bikeguy ok thanks bro and I done the mod in my other mototec and more power bro thanks
@@videntemusic2465 no problem
Found out on my 48volt 750 watt bolt on dc motor I can take the three plastic gears that reduce the speed
Ever thought of modifying the star to delta motor configuration?
Also, what about using vesc 72200?
The problem with that mod is u risk burning your motor....
No, I heard good things about vesc controller
Hi. i have a 2000 watt 48v 23AH e bike. One controller 27 AH for each motor. Do I shunt mod each controller? Or just one? Please let me know, Thank you.
You need to do it to both controllers
@@E-bikeguy Thank you for your quick response.
My caps in my controller said 100v? Wont it handle a 72v battery?
Yes it can
Thanks man. I'm pretty knowledgeable but your content definitely hepls@@E-bikeguy
Cant u wrap copper wire around and through it instead
Yes you can
Is this the fame with famex 2000w controler i currently have a 48v battery hooked up and im wanting to ad another 48for more power tho only have a 2000w controler will this work to make it faster ?
Nice, not only you will have power but more range
@@E-bikeguy thanks for replying bro 👌
Hey do you know where to get good triangle battery for a 3,000w 80A 72v
System around 30ah? Thanks as always!
US $328.30 30%OFF | 72V 40AH Triangle Bag Scooter Electric bicycle lithium battery 2000W 3000W 72V Battery Pack
a.aliexpress.com/_m0dYLfo
These are very good battery,
@E-bikeguy ok thanks
No problem
@@E-bikeguy good price, but 220.00 for shipping though :-( , great vids!
Could you just coil them together with wire?
Yes I believe so.
Would be nice if I could do this mod on my AR Kepler
Can you do a video doing this to the stock BBSHD controller?
As soon as I get my hands on one I'll do it
Hurricane coming our way here is So Cal or San Diego where im at in a few E. I know I wont be able to ride e bike this time. Medium rain a bit a stretch Ive been riding thru last storm but this mthrfckr a hurricane.?! You know the haps on these events on monthly basis. Its going to be bad hah?
Can i do this with a 48v 35a 1500w controller?
Yes you can, this is a 1500w controller I'm doing a shunt mod on
@@E-bikeguy but my battery has only a 40a bms so is that possible than?
@🔥Drum&BassBoy🔥 yes. Your bms will allow you to go over a certain amount before it trips
@@E-bikeguy thanks dude
No problem 😊
I did a shunt mod on my 500w ebike but it keeps turning my battery off after about 5 seconds of riding. What am I doing wrong?
I might be the bms in the battery is cutting off voltage
Is there a way to stop it from doing that? Or do I need a different battery?@@E-bikeguy
Will this mod work on stock controllers?
Yes to some degree tho
Very cool, does this mod keep the watts at full power when the bike reaches top speed, one of my bikes has a controller that drops off power at around 30mph, thanks
Yes it will
How many more amp do you think this shunt mod provides? From 60a to 70a or 60a to 80a or..???
I'd to 60a so like 2x more power
@@E-bikeguy so it goes from being a 60a controller to a 120a controller??
@JP-qq2kn oh no lol ,it was a 30a at first. After the mod I'd say 60a my son noticed a big difference in power increase
Great video. Can I get your opinion? I accidentally touched the positive and negative wires on my controller. Now it don't work. Any way to fix it?
You can but it's a long process, you probably blown some mosfets
@@E-bikeguy thanks for getting back to me bro. I pulled it apart. Nothing looks bad. Nothing smells bad. I don't know., I hooked everything back up but nothing 😭 I ordered a new controller. I was just hoping this one was still good.
I don't see shunts area on mine...his do you increase power at the phases...only 15 watts coming out of the phase wires
You don't see just one shunt?
@@E-bikeguy no shunts...at all.
Thank you for responding. Any help would be appreciated
@kevinvito2942 ok sorry I really can't help you on that topic but it looks like a new controller will be in order
www.ebay.com/itm/305135588130?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=evwhr9jbtbw&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=g6yfcireqc2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hey E bike guy, will that mod to the controller affect the life span of the controller? Will the controller over heat?
It depends if you going up really big hills or overvolting it then on issues with overheating
@E-bikeguy Thanks bruh! I'm new to e biking, waiting on kits to build two new Mongoose Dolomites.
Hi, grate video. Just a quick question, method to my madness some of them bored have a different way its like a small micro fuse and u solder a small bit of wire on for more power to trick it to get more speed/acceleration, if you was to soldered a thick bit of copper on top of thm three wouldn't that let even more power through or all it can. So if I use a thin bit of wire 0.3 24awg/ 0.5 copper wire or a thicker bit of wire 1.5 18awg/2.0 copper wire. Would the thinner bit of wire let less amps or less currant through will only do a little bit more top speed/acceleration, as a thicker bit of wire will allow more amps or current to flow through giving more power to motor for more top speed/acceleration am I right in thinking that or am I wrong?????🤔🤔🤔👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👊👊👊
That is interesting you might stumble on to something never tried that method tho
@@E-bikeguy cos the micro fuse only let's so much power through there for restricting the top speed/acceleration. I would of thought the thicker the piece of wire the more power/amps can flow through it and the thin bit will only allow a little bit of power/amps to flow. 🤔🤯😲🤣🤔🤔👍👍👊
@@liamdtraxxas2011 nice!!!! You need to send me a picture of your project.
What about putting in bigger mosfets and plenty of good thermal paste with a bigger heat sink to help keep them cool???
@liamdtraxxas2011 it's possible but it's more involved than just a shunt mod lol
Was hoping i can shunt my controller since it seens to be a unique controller to the brand i bought and there isn't any i can find that would fit any of my existing wiring. Mine has a 10pin main line, 3 pin sensor, 4 pin tail light, and a triangle 3 pin motor cable. Open up the controller casing and it is filled with silicone so its impossible to take out the pcb without cutting the aluminum case. This is really frustrating because this bike can do so much more than the 25mph its limited to. It has a 750w rear hub with 90nm of torque. 48v 15ah battery but the controller is limited to 20amp only. If only i can shunt it and get it to at least 32mph, i would be happy.
On man yes I had a few like that impossible without breaking something
@@E-bikeguy it is. Think I already messed something up by trying to push it out with a metal flat screw driver. It slipped under the PCB and touched something on the corner and it sparked. Now my left handbrake (front wheel) won't trigger my brake light. If you have any idea what controller (30a) would work with the Puckipuppy Hummingbird, would really appreciate it. Thanks.
thanks
No problem 😊
Yo, great vid!
Quick question ;
I want to do work commutes and play around a bit. I'm 300 pounds, and want to add a hub to my mountain bike. What is the best bang for buck right now? I want to do 30 to 40 mph minimum. I have a 26" rim with 100mm front and 135mm rear axle.
Any suggestions?
I'm thinking a 2000w kit.
Yes ok, I was thinking a 2000w kit with a 45a controller will get you right at 36mph
@@E-bikeguy nice. Any good kits you suggest?
@@jakefriesenjake s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mLpO3mG
do you know much about the vivi china made bikes and controllers? Can I just unplug a connection in the controller to bypass the speed control feature?
Not familiar with them but you can see if the controller have two blue wires connected together, you can unplug them and will give you more speed
@@E-bikeguy Copy that. Thank you for your knowledge and willingness to help. Much appreciated.
@@andyrueter3087 no problem
I recently did a shunt mod on my 35 amp 52 volt kt controller. It took a few attempts, but eventually (after adding a lot more solder and applying more heat to the shunts) it worked. I reckon the acceleration (torque) on my 2kw rear hub has increased by around 20 - 30 percent (maybe more).... And equally the battery drains at the same increase! Ha, obviously. No gain without pain. That's physics.
I'm glad I risked doing the mod (I do have a spare controller though, in case it didn't work). It could have melted everything for all I knew, but it seems to be fine. However, I'm not sure how much the faster discharge will affect the battery? Does anyone know?
I can now zoom up hills at 25 mph whereas before the mod I could only do 17 mph on the same hill. The cruising speed has gone up to 39 mph from 36 mph. Ha, cars are now getting in MY way. I'm overtaking cars on a bicycle. Love it
Lol that's awesome bro 👏 I'm glad it helped you out 💯
The best way to protect and extend the life of your battery is to charge it before it drains past 50%
Great job in explaining and showing what you are doing. Can the stock controller in my Lectric XP 3.0 be shunt modded as well?
👏 🙋♂️ can i do this on my 500w 20 amp 48v controller ???
Yes as long as it has the shunts in the controller is accessible
@@E-bikeguyQuick question boss, I have a 48v 800w scooter i injected statorade and put heat sinks around my rear wheel to help with cooling my motor quicker I ride pretty responsible if i shout mod my factory controller will it burn out my mosfets and how should i ride to stay safe..
Hi bro. How to do it this in yyk controllers 50a 72 v.?
Send me a link on one
The yuyang King brand
Yo bro, can I just rip the shunts off? Will it have the same effect? Thanks
I believe it will not work they have to be there
@@E-bikeguy ok thanks 🤍
@@Cruz.Ebikes no problem 😊
Great video brotha. I build my own ebikes as well. I would like to get in contact with you.
Ok email address is theebikeguy08@gmail.com
That’s what’s up bro!
Thank you bro, you should let me build one for you.
@@E-bikeguy We’ll see.
so thank you for good channel, even the store dony know lol kost me 3000 dollar this bike ,
Dang that is alot of money
@@E-bikeguy and i stop to bother you bro bout this lol, but if you can help im be a customer best wishes :-)
My controller has a R005 resistor on it haw can i make it go faster
Oh man let me research it what kind of controller you have ? There are some controller that cannot be modified
@@E-bikeguy any luck buddy all i no is the resistor is a R005. And I want to put 1 on top to half the ohm risistence. But I don't no what watt to pic thay offer 1 w 2 w 3w
@user-ut1fs4kv3z no luck here I was wondering if you knew the name of the controller because I really don't know, but the shunts are resistors also. But the r005 is a resistors but it also tells me that the controller is very small
Can i use this controller on my lectric xp 3.0? My OEM one is done i think and i cant find the same one anywhere online.
Yes you can, you will have to change the connectors
@@E-bikeguy so change the connectors and thats it? After that plug and play pas will work and everything? Could you send me a link for this controller
@subliminal128 ok I will In a few
@subliminal128 SEBLAFF 48/72V 1500W Brushless Motor Speed Controller Replacement for E-Bike Electric Bicycle Scooter a.co/d/5lqwBYB
@@E-bikeguy thanks buddy much appreciated!
Thanks for being real.. 👍🏻...so dose this work on 250 watts up to 1500 watts...?
Yes as long as it has the shunts
Hey man I was wondering if you could help me just got a nbpower 5000w hub motor and it doesn’t spin freely . It’s not locked up or anything and if I spin it with my hand it will spin okay but it just feels like something it dragging and it makes a some humming noise ????? Do you know what that could b or how to fix it or maybe I need to give it a hall test
Yes my 273 also humming when I spin it but if it's hard to spin make sure the phase wires are not touching each other but due to the strong magnet there will be se resistance
Okay cause I have a 3000w and it just spins freely but yea when I touch the phase wires it’s way to hard to spin … so what I’m a feeling on my hub motor for the 5k is okay and damn bro you r the best thank you 🙏 so much for getting back to me !!! 🎉
@@fredrobles1136 no problem
So it’s okay that it’s not spinning freely and has a small little drag to it and I haven’t got my new controller but I was gonna ride like 3 miles and if it gets super hot then I think something is prob wrong ??? Right
@fredrobles1136 yes if it gets hot to the touch then there is too much current going to the motor. But yes it's gonna be some resistance
Wish someone would do a shunt mod to a bafang internal controller. Just saying. Oh yea, I did get the cable for changing settings, but you need an older version than windows 10 to work. Waisted 20 bucks
How long that controller
Looks like my factory one is about 6inches and if so can I get a 1000w controller in that length?
I really don't know but this one is 6.5 inches long
@@E-bikeguy s12sn 1000watts 40amps torque simulation sine wave controller from bmsbattery
Sounds good, nice specs
@@E-bikeguy Thanks to you I'm super excited..soo do you think the 500w motor will hold up or upgrade to a 750w motor?
@@dextermarbury7115 oh most definitely!!!
Can this work for the kaabo mantis 10 pro
It should just as long it has the shunts
What's the difference between tubes and mosfets
Well I know the mosfets are like transistors now the tubes you talking about the shunts right?
I saw a guy talking about steep hills and blowing the controller, will my 1500 watt 48 volt motor and controller blow if i go up steep hills or no?
No, as long as you don't over volt the controller
@@E-bikeguy How can i make sure i dont do that?
@Zvat so if controller is a 48v just do 48v not 52v and you will be ok
@@E-bikeguy Alright thanks for the tip ill try to this cuz i want more acceleration if this works well youre a life safer man
@Zvat ok no problem, glad to help
Hey man question i have a 1500watt kit in my fat bike . Will that be the same controller? Also my controller had 2 blue wires the manual says if they are connected together i can only get 50% power but if I disconnect i can get full power , is that what they doing now to avoid people soldering the shunt together? Or we can even do the soldering shunt and get more out of it ?
Also can we ad another battery together to have 2 for more range ?
Ok good question, my answer is yes, you can add a second battery for more range also power, yes the blue wire if connected will restrict to 750w to comply with the law and doing a shunt mod will have more power blue wire will have no effect its just safety and law concern
Ohh ok i just bought this kit and it was pretty expensive im afraid of loosing warranty if i try to open it up lol
The seller says this is a 48v 17 amps battery If i do the shunt mode won’t kill this battery right?
Thanks for you fast reply too My son is 17 and he also wants to get an electrical kit like me , he has a cruising bike with 80cc ebay kit engine there and he can’t keep up with my fat tire bike Top
Speed i had have it in a fully charged batt is 36 mph with 215pounds and fat tire bike are heavy but my son the weights 170 had this bike at 40mph
@diytech1008 nice my son is 15 and his bike top speed 63mph but don't go that fast lol
hi, my controller have only one shunt/rod ... is there anything ! can do to boost it?
Just solder that one, it will decrease the resistance
@@E-bikeguy WOW that was quick! Thanks ebikeguy
@@hansplourde no problem
What about a 3 speed scooter controller? 1 speed 6mph-2 speed 12mph-3 speed 15mph. Can I mod that controller?
It depends on the controller, you can open it up and see if it has shunt
Did you ever do this mod?
@CannondaleF700 yes I did, in fact I sold the controller,
I have a 52v 2000w kit with a 35 amp controller, how many watt increase will I see with a shunt mod thanks
You will see about 60 amps 4000w
@@E-bikeguy will this be okay for the motor and controller? Thanks
@@DwayneTheStoneJones yes it will
Beef up the heat sink double or triple the size so it will not limit the current
Understood 🫡💯👊
@@E-bikeguy what I do in that kind of set up is simply I add heatsink flat flat bar in the front of mosfets sandwiched in the middle
Hello i have a QMWHEEL V20 fatbike, what i want exact, is that the bike will be limited at 5kmh with just the trottle and that with peddle it goes 25kmh, but only the trottle max speed 5kmh, now in stage 1 just the trottle does 10kmh and that is illigal in the Netherlands, the rule is just 5kmh so i want put a switch on it, or a electric responder key or codes or something that it just goes 45kmh (what it can ride now max speed) when I want, and when I press the key or switch that I just can limeted the trottle at 5kmh but that you can paddle and trottle together the max can be 25kmh, but only pressing the trottle and no peddle can be max 5kmh.. and top speed 25kmh with peddle and trottle but the trottle need to stop at 5kmh, the controller is from dongguan jing hui I hope that I have explained it well if you need more info or something please let me know
A programmable controller can do just that you can put a switch or a key to limit your speed
@@E-bikeguyhow can I do that?
@Heinz-sq2eo why yes you can