Using a Sliding Mitre Saw: Woodworking for Beginners #9 - woodworkweb
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- In this video we explain the features of both 10" and 12" sliding mitre saws that may help people select the best saw for their use, then we go on to describe the features and how these tools work.
We also review basic miter saw safety.
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Beginners Woodworking Series #1 to #10: • Woodworking for Beginn...
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Full article on using a mitre saw - goo.gl/g5Y1Vk
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Excellent tip on chi outing blade sizes! Never thought of getting something the same size of a table saw
thank you, Colin for your video
Awesome I was thinking about buying a 7.25” kobalt sliding miter saw
Good explanation between the 10inch and 12 inch miter saw.
Thanks!!! You've quickly answered my questions about how to figure the length of cut my miter saw will make. I appreciate you simple, succinct instructions.
Beautifully clear and informative, thank you
Great video and good explanation!!!! Straight to the point!!!! Keep up the great work Amiga!
Would be nice if you demonstrated the sliding action at the end.
Thank you!
Great, no nonsense explanation about how to use a Mitre Saw.
I have a Dewalt 12” single bevel miter saw and a Delta 10” single bevel miter saw and now I’m thinking about buying either a 7 1/4” or a 10” sliding miter saw. Kobalt’s on sale right now at Lowe’s. I’m watching videos on CZcams to make the correct decision.
Thank you for the video. I have a 10" mitre saw that gets used a lot. My friend came by the other day and borrowed it to cut a bunch of 1"x1" wood squares. Over 350 of them. When he brought it back he said he loved using it. His had broken down and was an older, smaller mitre saw. Mine is a Craftsmen and has always done me good.. Love the videos
I always learn a lot every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks for all you do.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks!
So glad I watched this before opening the package on my new miter saw. Bought a 12" but thanks to this advice about the 10" blades being usable on circular saws, I'll return the 12" and pick up the 10".
I have an old 12 that does not slide but comes in handy in certain cases where the 10 will not go deep enough.
Great video. Thank you for explaining the difference between the two saws.
Thanks World... for your comment :)
Colin
Having just bought my first sliding miter saw I thought I would check out videos on their use. This is a very good explanation of the basic use and functions of the saw. The safety tip of letting the blade stop before letting the saw up is excellent. I also learned to push the saw during the cut, not pull it.
Dave L Thanks for taking a moment to comment Dave ... I'm sure you will get lots of use from your saw, they are real workhorses ...
these BEGINNER tips are great for someone with a professional saw. beginners usually have beginner equipment, so sliding supports and accurate locking positions on beginner equipment is a lot harder to achieve. Good video if your starting woodworking with professional equipment. useless for beginners.
Easy to understand. Thank you
Thanks!
Good Job; it isn't easy to describe how to use a compound miter saw. You are a good teacher.
Good advices, thank you Colin.
Thank you Robert for taking a moment to comment
Great show, thanks a lot!
Glad to see a safe operation of the chop saw! So many people don't wait till the blade spins down...
Glad to hear others make comments like this ... thanks buddy :)
I'm definitely guilty. Guess I need to change things up a bit!
However hearing protection and safety glasses were not used
Not a chop saw.
Great information as I'm about to buy one thank-you
Helpful video, thank you
Great stuff Colin. Keep them coming.
Derek
Thanks for your support Derek !!
Thank you for the info. I just got a sliding saw after all these years.
I know ... some of us are late bloomers :) ..... me too
Great job thanks
Very well explained ..
cheers Mick!!!
Hey .. thanks Mick !!
Thanks a lot
Very informative
Good tips. Thanks for the video!
Thanks Enrique for taking the time to comment
thanks Collin. Very good video. take care Michael from Australia
Michael Davis Thanks Michael, and greetings down under ... we have many of your countymen as subscribers, great to have you with us
Very Interesting and for me timely. I'm about to pop for a sliding miter saw and this was helpful.
Hi Bud, perfect, glad this was of some use to you :)
Colin
Thanks William -- that is exactly what I want to know -- How to cut the larger size boards -- like a 4 x 4 post -- How large does it cut? Or those large posts like fence posts -- Are there some larger than 4 x 4 and how do you cut the larger boards? Eventually I would like to build a shed and repair my fence --so I want to know what equipment I need. I do llike C's youtube videos.
Your saw looks like much better quality hardware than my Harbor Freight saw I used today.
LOL, his saw costs a lot more than $189 for the 12" HF ! Actually HF now (3 years after your comment...yeah, I'm late to the party) has their Hercules line for about $350 and it's not half bad. I'm not always a huge fan, but over the years some of those tools made of the finest Chinesium materials have saved me enough money to buy and build a lot more!
Great video
When using a compound miter, is it normal to have a smoother surface on the waste material's (right side of the saw) side or its just my cheap compound miter saw? I am using a new frued 10" diablo blade.
Thanks for another great video. I have a rather cheap sliding mitre saw. I never looked at the diameter (I don´t you use it that often, never changed the blade, although I should have/buy more types of blades for the various materials), but I think it´s a 10" one. (30 cm) I can cut till a thickness of 7 or 7.5 cm and till a length/width of 30 cm. But when I use a stopblock and stabilizers I can double these sizes by turning the material 180 degrees.
+Hans de Groot Thanks for your comments Hans
As you can see the Mitre saws are constructed in a symmetry. I do however experience an uncomfortable feeling when I put wood on the right side of the saw as I'm right handed. Is it safe to use the saw that way? I don't have a big workshop so most of the times its easier to put wood on the right side of the saw because on the left side there is no room (in my garage). What is the best practice on this?
Very good video loco!
The cut near the end showed not using the sliding action, which results in a cleaner cut. As a half azzed carpenter I've found on wider boards, with the good side up,, a cleaner cut is achieved by dropping straight down slowly letting the saw do the work and pulling the blade toward you carefully as it has a tendency to want to travel in that direction. If the good side is face down then starting out all the way, dropping the blade down slowly and sliding in makes a cleaner cut. The blade, number of teeth and saw sharpness also makes a big difference.
Thanks for the tips!
I’m glad I watch this, i purchased a 10” feeling little guilty because of future restriction, but not it seems like 10” has. A lot different blade to use and I did look up the price and much cheaper than a 12” blade
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video Colin, very well explained.
Thanks Carl
What's the best way to clean the sliding bar and ball bearings? Ours is starting to slide rough.
Why do you start the cut from the front of the wood then slide back versus the other way around?
It's it possible to fit a dado set on a miter saw? Sounds like it would be nice and dangerous.
Can you cut a 4 x 4 with a 12" miter saw, at 90 degrees of course?
One question: with this machine can I cut a board that is 12 inches wide and 6 feet long? Can I cut it lengthwise?
to get 2 boards 6 inches wide and 6 feet long??
I can safely say no one puts out better information than you.
I'm glad you like it. Thanks for watching!
BTW I went for the 12" because I need it for making shelves. I like to make mid century modern things and it really helps for that and a lot of the rabbit joinery I use for outside projects, doors and such. Got to know it last night about an hour past bed time. My neighbors love me.
Woodworking Beginner:
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade.
The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Good man
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have a (probably) stupid question. How do you know if your blade needs replaced or if you just need to lubricate something? I just bought my first sliding compound miter saw (12") for myself and can't wait to try it out. I had borrowed a friend's 10" miter saw recently to make some pine bird houses and the cut edges were a chewed up mess. Do you think the blade just needed replaced? He said he seldom used the saw at all.
+Bags and Bling, It usually depends on the amount of teeth on the blade. Most saws come with a rough cut blade. The more teeth and carbide tips help keep the wood from chipping.
Is it possible to use one of these to cut partway through a piece of material and slide the blade through to form a channel? I don't see a stop for that, but would be useful.
Maybe it's a safety concern?
I believe that would be okay but not very accurate since they do not make a stop for that
Almost all saws have this feature yes. You can chouse at what depth the saw stops.
Hi, I'm considering to buying my first miter saw. first question is do I need to buy sliding miter saw or can use just a compund miter saw without the sliding part. I'm considering to buy the makita ls1040 or the metabo kgs 254
both 10 inch machines.
please advise
@Moran Guy I bought a non-sliding compound saw and I regretted it the first time I went to cut a 12" wide piece of shelf and it wasn't. I love using a miter. Not being someone who grew up doing woodwork I prefer using table top tools instead of doing anything freehand, so having to use a circular saw to make precise cuts on those shelves tested me (I did it, it's not a big deal, but it would've been so much faster with a miter). With a 12" sliding, you can cut a 14" or 15" wide piece or and that might just save you from having to buy a table saw.
could it cut metal?
you can avoid chip out with a score cut by doing a shallow cut dragging the blade out before going though the wood pushing the blade in.
I've seen some recommend zero or even negative rake blades so the teeth push the wood and against the fence instead of pulling it up
Hi Lasse, yes you are correct about the chipping out and scoring, thanks for that note, I also have the Freud 90 tooth blade (a fairly new model) that give unbelievable cuts with no tearout, have a look at it some time, I'm sure you will be as impressed as I was :)
Thanks again for this great tip ...
Colin
Lol halo theme nice
To cut larger/thicker boards why not just cut 1/2 way thru then turn the piece over and finish the cut?
because it's more work and less accurate than just doing one pass.
It depends what you need. I think that construction Lumber as example doesn't need that precision one pass cut.
Hello!
Is your intro music the same as the Halo: Combat Evolved game? if not, it is very similar (first 6 seconds). Awesome videos! thanks for sharing.
The theme song: Halo Theme Song Original
Hi Angus, thanks for your note and the link ... wow, they sound very similar to my ear. The music for our opener was provided by a royalty free provider, but I do not know what elements they use to create these. You have an amazing ear, if you are not a musician, you should be, we have had thousands of comments yours is the only one that picked out that 3 second sound clip, well done buddy :)
I am a senior female that bought a 10" sliding compound mitre saw last year. Why? I don't know because now I'm afraid to try to use it. Not so much afraid of the saw as I am afraid I will ruin good wood! I am now needing to cut oak stair treads and risers and I'm not sure this saw will be large enough for that job. I also have a circular saw, but I'm not very good at staying on a drawn line. Should I just hire a professional (which goes against the reason I purchased power tools) or any other suggestions would be appreciated.
+Patricia Sadler practice on scrap or cheap projects until you're happy with your skills/results
I didn't get handy until middle age. I don't ever remember my dad ever touching a tool. Bought my first house late and lol couldn't afford a contractor after that. Like you I was scared at what I would ruin. Ruined a bunch of tiles the first time I used a tile saw, ruined a bunch of wood the first time I tried to make window casings and door trim, but I figured it out and even with the mistakes it was much cheaper than getting a contractor. Last week I helped a friend jack up his house on its foundation and we cut and installed brand new sill plates and sister joists! A few years ago I didn't know what a sill, or joist was and I thought jacking was something that was strictly meant for cars! The miter saw was the first wood cutting tool I mastered. It's relatively safe and easier to get a good straight cut than almost any other saw.
Should you slide from front to back or back to front?
Obviously from front to back. That way you push the wood in the back fence and it cant come out towards you.
Dewalt 12" sliding miter is cheaper than the 10" version. By almost 300cdn
A slider needs a blade with a negative hook. Table saw blades do not work well with sliders or radial arm saws.
eye protection especially.
You have a Romulan haircut.
Youre not using the slide when cutting why not
I did it with Woodglut.
Nope 7 1/2 “ Dewalt cordless with. Power stack batteries….
Hey, just one remark, before he decides to publish it, you might want to take a peek at Woody Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible, maybe just try go'ogling it even though it's a pretty good rough draft.
miter saw & table saw blades do not have the same teeth angle of attac. I would never use a table saw blade on my mitre saw.
Not exactly sure what mean by "table saw blades" or "mitre saw blades"?? There are ripping, crosscut, combination blades etc and most recognized manufactures put icons on the labeling of the blades to indicate where they are best be used if someone doesn't already know. No you wouldn't put a ripping blade on a mitre saw, but there are a variety of crosscut blades you can use on both and yes, some have different tooth angles, but they also have different tooth shapes, numbers of teeth per blade, some with and without anti-kickback, thin kerf, full kerf, not to mention, what kind of material is being cut? How clean does the cut need to be? There's a big difference between cutting fence boards to length and cutting crown moldings ... lots of things to consider.
a table saw blade has a positive angle of attac. a mitre saw blade has a négative. .the teeth angle of attact that does the differance
BUT you can put a table saw blade on your mitre saw . it does fit. I did it too until I lear about the differance.
Salutations
Ray
can i like you on facebook and follow you in real life?
These saws are murder on left handed people.
+midnightmandi I have heard that, too bad they can't make a "switchable" version
+WoodWorkWeb Greeting from down under Colin, I am a hobbyist woodworker,but at my young age of 33 I am a serious and ambitious one (haha) so I am in the market for one of the best in this case. I am currently on the fence about the Makita LS1016L (featured in this review) and the LS1018L,which other than being of a cheaper price, it apparantly has the traditional 2 rail mechanism,as apposed to the 4 rail slide 2 stage slide system,likewise it has a 1430w (13 Amp) motor where as the one you showed here has ofcourse a 15 Amp motor,as well as the laster,which I dont really think i'll need. so,which would you say would be a good choice for me? I am ultimately targeting mechanichal indurance,a decent build quality and ofcourse acuracy,but I don't demand the accuracy of say Festool,which I have actually used thanks to a friend who is a pro trim carpenter,which is AMAZING but I can't afford, or perhaps even justify such a high end saw. I defaintely want one of the 2 Makita models,but if I got for the standard feature model (LS1018L) which I understand has some omisions,can I be confident that I would be getting good build quality sufficient performence/power for that price in my home use capacity? or should I spend the few hundred dollars extra and for the the 1016L? incidentally, I have even tried our the 15Amp Rockwell sliding 10" saw which anoter friend who is a beginner and entry level user,and as far as acurecy was concerened, I was surprised to find it had great accuracy out of the box and very good and ample power for a DIY grade saw.. HOWEVER.. the big problem,which was a deal breaker for me,the build quality was quite questionable, as I noticed the brushes would really show a lot of sparks and at times they would smell a little,seems motor quality was not a priority in this model.. please help. many thanks :)