Which Miter Saw is better Sliding vs Fixed and which one should you get. You'll learn the difference between both saws and which one will be best for you.
I appreciate that you explained the difference in cutting dynamics between a slider and non-slider. The increased friction and heat buildup that one might encounter without the ability to "slide" through the cut is worth considering, depending on what you're cutting. Thank you for this video
This was exactly what I was looking for. I am a beginner and about to make a purchase and I needed this information. Very well explained and excellent presentation.
Superb quality throughout, easy to assemble. I found the saw to be highly accurate and a delight to use (I am a homeowner using this saw for various projects). I attached the saw to a folding mobile stand to save space and that works great czcams.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe as well. However, you have to be sure the saw is securely locking in position before collapsing the stand. I've had many of the brands over the years and have come to point where I only buy Bosch, the extra money is a small price to pay for the quality and ease of use. Treat yourself to the best.
Really good video. I’m impressed by ur professionalism. Camera work is nice too. The whole production value is great. The matching of your spoken remarks to the specific visuals is perfect. Subbed. 😎👍
@@Lucid_zzz_Dream You should learn professionalism from this guy! You have horribly bad lazy habits in spelling that makes your garbage hard to acknowledge without even using the term professional lmao
The DeWalt sliding miter saw is $650 in Canada, lol. But I did see a Canadian Tire brand MasterCraft had one on sale for $150. The fixed miter saw my dad left me is good enough but the sliding one looks so high tech and super shiny!
If you are cutting mostly crown don't purchase the sliding saw the side to side movement is to much for finish crown molding. Fixed is so much better with repeating and cleaner cuts.
Other videos show using a sliding miter saw just like a fixed miter, chopping down, but then sliding outward. That is not the safe way to do it for hardwoods. This video showed the proper procedure, pushing away from your body. It's a safer method in case you lose your grip on the piece being cut.
I honestly have a different opinion. A lighter saw is always a plus on the job sites. A non-slider is far easier to make more repetitive cuts than a slider with far less chance of things going out of adjustments. Just cut slower or get a proper blade if it's slow to go through. If the contact patch theory is true in a significant way, then everyone should cut with the table saw blade all the way up all the time. A 10" non- slider will do all your by4 and by6 jobs at 30+/- lbs. Try carrying a slider up the stairs at more like 60+/-lbs.
I think something to note is that the traditional chop saw is more accurate. It’s hinge mechanism is much more robust than the long rails. As of now, I’d say if you need large cuts and don’t expect them to be super precise, get the 779. If you want accurate cuts on a slightly smaller scale, get the 716.
Same. I have a fixed, and would love the extra crosscut length, but the deflection is a deal breaker. For construction, the slider makes sense (although I wouldn’t want to carry those 12 inch sliders around on a job site), but for fine woodworking the accuracy of the fixed is important.
Hi Building Guru. I really appreciate your videos. I own a cremation urn business and I would like to ask what in general terms is the sliding saw that with adjustment offers the best accuracy. Relating to this is build quality too. I solely do compound mitre cuts from one side, usually left bevel. I appreciate the accuracy and build quality of the older Hitachi C8FB type saws but the new saws from Hitachi/Hikoki are rubbish and made in Cn. May I ask for your feedback and general recommendations please. Kind regards Tony Vader
@@yohanathandowns9057 ...so how do you get big cuts out of a non-slider?... double position the piece?? Great way to introduce an error. Sliders have so little deviation, they beat the double cut approach every time (assuming you don't scrimp on the sliding miter you buy)!
@@galenhaugh3158 it's an EXTREMELY rare occasion my 12" saw's 8" isn't enough to cut my materials. On the rare occasion I do have to flip it I have a nice stand so it isn't a big deal. On a nice saw sliding is 100% the way to go, But I havnt found a nice slider for less than $800. $800 vs. $300 and one is much easier to pack to jobs, and far less delicate.
A helpful video that fills a gap left by most other videos: blade cutting and waste elimination efficiency. If I had the budget, this would have been ideal for helping me decide on which type to buy. However, the "slightly more expensive" did not prove true for a first-time DIY user. Given the current price of the Metabo HPT 10-in Single Bevel Compound Corded Miter Saw at Lowe's, it would have cost over twice as much to find a sliding saw with otherwise similar features. Still, many thanks for your help!
Also... Buy better tools used instead of making compromises by buying new. You won't be able to tell new vs used after a little use anyways. They are tools.
Now it got really confusing. When looking at table saw guides they're saying lower the blade so it's slightly above the material, so that as many teeth as possible get to work. But with Miter saws it's the exact opposite? Should've stayed with handtools. :)
The more teeth you have engaging the slower and cleaner the cut will be, while also building more heat and making it harder to clear the chip. Blade deflection isn't an issue unless you're smoking your blade, which you won't smoke an u damaged blade
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Do you have a website? Is there a way to contact you about services you can do? You might want to enable email contacts through CZcams interface, which they require us to go through Capcha to obtain.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 THANKS FOR THE REPLY. REALLY LIKE YOUR CHANNEL. NEW TO DEWALT MITER SAWS. A NUMBER OF PEOPLE I KNOW HAVE BOTH THE STATIONARY AND SLIDING SAWS WITH THE SAME HIGH-QUALITY FINISH BLADE FOR THIS REASON. BETTER QUALITY CRADLE CUTS WITH LESS DEFLECTION.. SO BASICALLY IF I USE YOUR CUTTING TECHNIQUES AND SET UP. I CAN SIMPLY BUY 1 SLIDING SAW AND GET THE SAME QUALITY CUTS? ALSO, WILL I GET THE SAME TYPE OF QUALITY LONGEVITY WITH THE SAME TYPE OF 'MINIMAL" CARE? THANKS.
Good video, except the comment on clearance differences behind each type. There are zero clearance sliding saws. You had one in your video - the fixed rail.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw. (test is not for rough work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks They're just saying that the body can flex slightly if you pull sideways on the handle. They seem to post this same message under many miter saw videos, with the same nonsense about not using a model with the handle to the side.
There’s a very specific and substantial difference between these types of saws and it’s not their size. In the video you can see the difference if you want to watch it.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 so you can't safely reach the depth of cut with the fixed saw that you can with the sliding. That's exactly what i mean. There's no "better" of the two. They're 2 similar tools for 2 different jobs.
@@lastditch727 It has nothing to do with whether you can make the cut, it has to do with the quality of the cut. The video shows the reason for this and the benefits of each saw.
Audio: This may very well be unique to my computer, but I can clearly hear everything in this Video music, sounds made from saws. However, for some reason, I am unable to hear the sound of your voice. not trying to be critical, I am trying to be helpful... kindest regards.. JB
My left ear really enjoyed this video
🤣😂
🤣
😂
😂
😇😅😇
Thorough and to the point. Thank you.
I appreciate that you explained the difference in cutting dynamics between a slider and non-slider. The increased friction and heat buildup that one might encounter without the ability to "slide" through the cut is worth considering, depending on what you're cutting. Thank you for this video
Thanks for watching, glad you liked it!!😁
@@thebuilditchannel8609 your videos are very educational sir, eager waiting for more upcoming video of yours
Very detailed and straight to the point. Thank you!
seems like both saws are equally good at cutting the right microphone wires :D
Super helpful. You’re clearly knowledgeable and break things down so well compared to many others. Thank you!
Excellent video. Quick and to the point with great explanation. Thank you!
What a perfect explanation, fast and succinct. Thank you so much.
Just the information I was looking for and explained clearly. Thank you.
That was exactly the information my left ear was looking for
Wish I would have seen this before I bought my saw. Great video!
This was exactly what I was looking for. I am a beginner and about to make a purchase and I needed this information. Very well explained and excellent presentation.
Really good point about the tooth engagement, I had not considered that before.
Seth Newsome Thanks!!😁👍🏻
No sound when watching on the computer pulled it up on the phone and sound was there! Great info
Very informative and truly good ! Thumbs up !!
It was informative and simple. It made the choice very clear.
Another excellent video - hadnt really considered the heat build up in that way vs the fixed, more the portability as a decider!! 🙄👍
Well explained been looking for this, thank you
finally clear and concise information thank you
Thanks,you provide complete and understandable information.
I thought this was great, new to miter saws and this was very helpful!
i am new to wood work and this video made it so simple to understand.. thanks for making this video
Nice. It’s great that you touch on so many points. I’m Bosch all the way. But that kapex is an awesome tool as well.
This was brilliant! Thank you!
Excellent concise info thank you
Superb quality throughout, easy to assemble. I found the saw to be highly accurate and a delight to use (I am a homeowner using this saw for various projects). I attached the saw to a folding mobile stand to save space and that works great czcams.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe as well. However, you have to be sure the saw is securely locking in position before collapsing the stand. I've had many of the brands over the years and have come to point where I only buy Bosch, the extra money is a small price to pay for the quality and ease of use. Treat yourself to the best.
thanks - i didn't know what sliding meant so this was a great example that was to the point!
Thanks!! Glad you liked it!!
good information you helped me make my decision. Thank you
Really good video. I’m impressed by ur professionalism. Camera work is nice too. The whole production value is great. The matching of your spoken remarks to the specific visuals is perfect. Subbed. 😎👍
Building Guru
No man, thank u. I went looking for an educational video about this exact topic and u nailed it right off the bat. 5 stars
@@Lucid_zzz_Dream You should learn professionalism from this guy! You have horribly bad lazy habits in spelling that makes your garbage hard to acknowledge without even using the term professional lmao
Very clear and straight to the point. If only more youtube videos followed your approach!
Great advice
The DeWalt sliding miter saw is $650 in Canada, lol. But I did see a Canadian Tire brand MasterCraft had one on sale for $150. The fixed miter saw my dad left me is good enough but the sliding one looks so high tech and super shiny!
Very clear, thanks!
straight forward..
thumbs up
If you are cutting mostly crown don't purchase the sliding saw the side to side movement is to much for finish crown molding.
Fixed is so much better with repeating and cleaner cuts.
good info - thanks
I had no idea you had a CZcams channel dude, I’m your newest Subscriber 😎👊🏽
Excellent thanks
Good. I guess I'll buy a sliding then ^^. I saw some used ones with angle too. I guess just gives extra options
Nailed it.
Great video!
Thank You!! 😁
Great video! Answers all my questions 👍
Thanks!
Other videos show using a sliding miter saw just like a fixed miter, chopping down, but then sliding outward. That is not the safe way to do it for hardwoods. This video showed the proper procedure, pushing away from your body. It's a safer method in case you lose your grip on the piece being cut.
will you do a review of the brands from harbor freight all the way up. Great vid,thanks
Can you do a review on Milwaukee 12 in cordless miter saw?
I honestly have a different opinion. A lighter saw is always a plus on the job sites. A non-slider is far easier to make more repetitive cuts than a slider with far less chance of things going out of adjustments. Just cut slower or get a proper blade if it's slow to go through. If the contact patch theory is true in a significant way, then everyone should cut with the table saw blade all the way up all the time. A 10" non- slider will do all your by4 and by6 jobs at 30+/- lbs. Try carrying a slider up the stairs at more like 60+/-lbs.
Sliding 12” compound miter saw cuts everything one needs. Somehow I have both saws.
How does one figure out the depth cut capability?
The Bosch axial glide is the Rolls Royce of sliding saws, in my opinion.
I think something to note is that the traditional chop saw is more accurate. It’s hinge mechanism is much more robust than the long rails. As of now, I’d say if you need large cuts and don’t expect them to be super precise, get the 779. If you want accurate cuts on a slightly smaller scale, get the 716.
came here to say the same thing, i find i put too much twist on the saw when im cutting and need it to cut straighter
Same. I have a fixed, and would love the extra crosscut length, but the deflection is a deal breaker. For construction, the slider makes sense (although I wouldn’t want to carry those 12 inch sliders around on a job site), but for fine woodworking the accuracy of the fixed is important.
Why no mention of accuracy? Or maintenance? I would say there are a lot more differences between them, especially if you are moving the saw often.
Excellence!
Very informative. Greatly helps with my decision.
Thanks! Glad it helped!!
شكرا جزيلا
Hi Building Guru.
I really appreciate your videos. I own a cremation urn business and I would like to ask what in general terms is the sliding saw that with adjustment offers the best accuracy.
Relating to this is build quality too. I solely do compound mitre cuts from one side, usually left bevel.
I appreciate the accuracy and build quality of the older Hitachi C8FB type saws but the new saws from Hitachi/Hikoki are rubbish and made in Cn.
May I ask for your feedback and general recommendations please.
Kind regards Tony Vader
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Thank you for your help
Is all the audio panned left?? What is going on.. lol
What about the amount of play in a sliding Mitre saw? doesn't seem to be much, but perhaps worth mentioning.
Very worth mentioning. I won't use a sliding miter saw for big crown or base
@@yohanathandowns9057 ...so how do you get big cuts out of a non-slider?... double position the piece?? Great way to introduce an error.
Sliders have so little deviation, they beat the double cut approach every time (assuming you don't scrimp on the sliding miter you buy)!
@@galenhaugh3158 it's an EXTREMELY rare occasion my 12" saw's 8" isn't enough to cut my materials. On the rare occasion I do have to flip it I have a nice stand so it isn't a big deal. On a nice saw sliding is 100% the way to go, But I havnt found a nice slider for less than $800. $800 vs. $300 and one is much easier to pack to jobs, and far less delicate.
A helpful video that fills a gap left by most other videos: blade cutting and waste elimination efficiency. If I had the budget, this would have been ideal for helping me decide on which type to buy. However, the "slightly more expensive" did not prove true for a first-time DIY user. Given the current price of the Metabo HPT 10-in Single Bevel Compound Corded Miter Saw at Lowe's, it would have cost over twice as much to find a sliding saw with otherwise similar features. Still, many thanks for your help!
You could just buy another brand. They are mostly all made in the same factories in China with different logos slapped on them.
Also... Buy better tools used instead of making compromises by buying new. You won't be able to tell new vs used after a little use anyways. They are tools.
Now it got really confusing. When looking at table saw guides they're saying lower the blade so it's slightly above the material, so that as many teeth as possible get to work. But with Miter saws it's the exact opposite? Should've stayed with handtools. :)
The more teeth you have engaging the slower and cleaner the cut will be, while also building more heat and making it harder to clear the chip. Blade deflection isn't an issue unless you're smoking your blade, which you won't smoke an u damaged blade
I couldn't hear any sound, but I was able to turn on the closed captioning. Thanks!
Ok now I know the difference between the 2, is the 10 inch or 12 inch better or does that matter?
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Ok thanks. Can the 10 inch cut a 6X6 or would the 12 inch do a better job?
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Gotcha
Do you do any work around the San Francisco Bay Area?
No I’m Southern California
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Do you have a website? Is there a way to contact you about services you can do? You might want to enable email contacts through CZcams interface, which they require us to go through Capcha to obtain.
@@persistentone3448You can message me
on Instagram under Buildingguru.
You couldn't list in the description what models these saws were?? Hey thanks a lot !!
What about blade deflexion
@@thebuilditchannel8609 THANKS FOR THE REPLY. REALLY LIKE YOUR CHANNEL. NEW TO DEWALT MITER SAWS. A NUMBER OF PEOPLE I KNOW HAVE BOTH THE STATIONARY AND SLIDING SAWS WITH THE SAME HIGH-QUALITY FINISH BLADE FOR THIS REASON. BETTER QUALITY CRADLE CUTS WITH LESS DEFLECTION.. SO BASICALLY IF I USE YOUR CUTTING TECHNIQUES AND SET UP. I CAN SIMPLY BUY 1 SLIDING SAW AND GET THE SAME QUALITY CUTS? ALSO, WILL I GET THE SAME TYPE OF QUALITY LONGEVITY WITH THE SAME TYPE OF 'MINIMAL" CARE? THANKS.
Actually, I'm wondering why you didn't use a lapel mic for recording to increase volume and reduce echo.
what your opinion about battery or electric miter saw? thanks!!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 thanks!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 yes ok electric, but which one what model? thanks!!!
also, as far as i understand, with sliding saw you can cut dados
Aigars Bovtons Yes, that’s right.
Good video, except the comment on clearance differences behind each type. There are zero clearance sliding saws. You had one in your video - the fixed rail.
That's actually what he said.
“Slightly more expensive”😮 the price darn near doubles. Fix saw makes more accurate cuts also. Wondering if you have a clue on any of this subject.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw. (test is not for rough work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
This comment is too long and convoluted… what are you trying to say in one or two lines
It's pretty obvious that people manage to cut fine with either handle style. You seem to post this same message to almost every miter saw video.
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks They're just saying that the body can flex slightly if you pull sideways on the handle. They seem to post this same message under many miter saw videos, with the same nonsense about not using a model with the handle to the side.
@@loganmedia1142 I noticed that as well lol.
ugg the sound. You could easily put this through an audio editor and pan that left channel to the right as well.
Sliders are almost double the cost of a fixed saw
ECHO!!!!!!!
Lmao. That's like saying "which is better? A 4 foot or an 8 foot ladder?" 😆
There’s a very specific and substantial difference between these types of saws and it’s not their size. In the video you can see the difference if you want to watch it.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 so you can't safely reach the depth of cut with the fixed saw that you can with the sliding. That's exactly what i mean. There's no "better" of the two. They're 2 similar tools for 2 different jobs.
@@lastditch727 It has nothing to do with whether you can make the cut, it has to do with the quality of the cut. The video shows the reason for this and the benefits of each saw.
No, sliding miter saws are lot more expensive
Audio: This may very well be unique to my computer, but I can clearly hear everything in this Video music, sounds made from saws. However, for some reason, I am unable to hear the sound of your voice. not trying to be critical, I am trying to be helpful... kindest regards.. JB
Video was okay. You didn't delve into the compound aspects of the saws. You should invest in a good microphone, either a shotgun or a lav.
make your mono audio to stereo
Too much wall space interference
There’s sound but not while he talks. 🤦🏼♀️
Thanks for nothing. Now I need ro buy a sliding saw and use my fixed saw to take up space in my storage unit.
Don't buy this dewalt mitter saw the bearings it's a big issue on this machine
Good vid, but for novices you should also explain the adjustment knobs and slider/mitre/bevel locks, latches, & detents.