Ya could use an old hub instead of the pipe clamp, I cut 4 slots in mine to feed the emery cloth through, start engine, 1st gear, apply brake, job done once all the pads are showing contact 🤙
I've never liked the flat sided cam of the brake actuator and have always ground down the sides to a more ellipsoidal shape so the pressure on the shoes is more evenly applied, rather than that change from straight to angled, if you get my drift. Think you did a video on this a while back. All the same a great idea to help bed in the shoes from the off.😉
Tbh steve , the leading edge of the brake shoe , weve always filed or sanded that part down so the rest of the shoe makes better contact but it still isnt the best as you know mate , good job most of us have front disc brakes now to compensate , the rear disc conversion is very expensive and locks up the rear wheel too easily but i would like to see a video on them to see if they are worth the expense , good video again steve , always experimenting and improving mate , keep it up mate 👍🛵
CHEERS MIDGE you dont need a good rear as you say they lock up if your braking hard on the front , this one is now very controlled you can trail nicely or push harder and get it to lock , ive had some that you just have to touch and they lock up ,thats not good . Ive removed around 30 mm of brake and it works perfect nice and progressive
Removing the first part of the upper brake pad works. The brake effect gets stronger, but less sensitive to control. Especially on a front drum brake it gets quite on/off under rainy conditions. I recommend to take of the braking compound material little by little and try the performance and reaction of your brake during this procedere. You don‘t want the brake being on/off without any feeling for the pressure point, don‘t you.
Not sure if it's worth all that effort. Tried similar with Grimeca T/L shoes on classic race bike but no gain. Also the radial geometry of the shoes alters as soon as the cam is applied, so incredibly difficult to adjust contact area which will change as soon as linings start to wear. The measurement you took with the vernier is unlikely to be accurate as the reading was taken with the wrong side of the gauges, (should use internal dia side not external) and even if then they couldn't take account of the unworn lip at the top edge of the drum. Finally, never use compressed air to clear brake debris. Highly dangerous, suggest brake cleaner fluid?
@@TheSteelweasel Yep...sorry about that, not intentional. I owned 2 Lambrettas in my youth, a TV175 and a SX200. Both great fun, and fairly quick to be fair...but stopping wasn't their best feature!
Ya could use an old hub instead of the pipe clamp, I cut 4 slots in mine to feed the emery cloth through, start engine, 1st gear, apply brake, job done once all the pads are showing contact 🤙
Good idea but alot of work cutting ? But good all the same .
I've never liked the flat sided cam of the brake actuator and have always ground down the sides to a more ellipsoidal shape so the pressure on the shoes is more evenly applied, rather than that change from straight to angled, if you get my drift. Think you did a video on this a while back. All the same a great idea to help bed in the shoes from the off.😉
Yes I do it's in one of my other videos . It also gives a shorter cam to longer cam as it turns adding leverage .
Tbh steve , the leading edge of the brake shoe , weve always filed or sanded that part down so the rest of the shoe makes better contact but it still isnt the best as you know mate , good job most of us have front disc brakes now to compensate , the rear disc conversion is very expensive and locks up the rear wheel too easily but i would like to see a video on them to see if they are worth the expense , good video again steve , always experimenting and improving mate , keep it up mate 👍🛵
CHEERS MIDGE you dont need a good rear as you say they lock up if your braking hard on the front , this one is now very controlled you can trail nicely or push harder and get it to lock , ive had some that you just have to touch and they lock up ,thats not good . Ive removed around 30 mm of brake and it works perfect nice and progressive
Disc breaks are for girls
As ever Steve a brilliant vid and useful engineering mate 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great stuff Steve always informative to a point.
Top vid😊
Going to give this a go. Again proper scooter stuff.
Removing the first part of the upper brake pad works. The brake effect gets stronger, but less sensitive to control.
Especially on a front drum brake it gets quite on/off under rainy conditions.
I recommend to take of the braking compound material little by little and try the performance and reaction of your brake during this procedere.
You don‘t want the brake being on/off without any feeling for the pressure point, don‘t you.
Agreed 👍 you can play around till you get them how you want , after I tested I found them to be less on off and more progressive win win
Cool vid as always Steve, I'm guessing the DIY brake tool work on the front brake as well? cheers again ;)
That is correct
Nice idea 👍🏻
I coat the shoes with coloured chalk so you can see where to trim down
I only had blue diamond chalk , didn't want to waist it .
Hi Steve, do you need to do the same on the leading edge of the bottom one also? If not why not? Cheets
Yes top and bottom mate
Both at cam end
Hi steve I bought 2 on ali 131-139 for LD and 141-169 for LI 11,98 € for the 2. Sorry Tino you're too expensive
Not sure if it's worth all that effort. Tried similar with Grimeca T/L shoes on classic race bike but no gain. Also the radial geometry of the shoes alters as soon as the cam is applied, so incredibly difficult to adjust contact area which will change as soon as linings start to wear. The measurement you took with the vernier is unlikely to be accurate as the reading was taken with the wrong side of the gauges, (should use internal dia side not external) and even if then they couldn't take account of the unworn lip at the top edge of the drum. Finally, never use compressed air to clear brake debris. Highly dangerous, suggest brake cleaner fluid?
Well don't worry you can make tea if you come around pal 😉
Ps the internal side is obviously too short to enter . Less negativity Mr biker
@@TheSteelweasel Yep...sorry about that, not intentional. I owned 2 Lambrettas in my youth, a TV175 and a SX200. Both great fun, and fairly quick to be fair...but stopping wasn't their best feature!
Hi Steve could you tell us link to the pipe clamp cheers
It's from my local yacht chandler. Cost me 20 pounds .
a commercial vehicle factors should stock them as exhaust clamps