Thank you for the detailed video. We've built a 16' x 36' pool and completed the plumbing last night, only to learn that the first pool pressure test is done prior to backfilling using air. Luckily, I'll not have to cut off the two manifolds. I'll simply use your design with my existing unions! Thank goodness! You've saved me a lot of frustration, time, and expense.
Really happy you got value from this video! Hope your pressure test goes well and you can move on with the build and be swimming just in time for summer! Thanks for the comment.
This is a great video. Can you also build an open stem plug to create a closed loop, in case I need to add fix-a-leak (or any leak fixer product) to the faulty line? in my case is the suction line. I don't want the fixing product to be all over the system or the pool.
Hey there, thanks for the comment. I have not used any leak-fix products but don't why you couldn't modify this type of design to allow you to install as a closed loop. Check out LeakTronics channel, they have a ton of content covering leak detection and repair: czcams.com/users/leaktronics
On my skimmers I was able to use a threaded PVC plug and had to wrap the threads good with a teflon tape to get a good seal. Then on my returns I used an actual rubber plug that was made specifically for pressure testing applications. They are similar to a rubber winterizing plug, except instead of a tapered design they are a consistent size/circumference on both ends. I ordered them off of amazon for the PVC pipe size I had (2"). If you try to use the normal rubber winterizing plugs, be very careful as they will have a high chance of blowing out especially if you test up to 30 psi. I had tried this and had one blow out, would have been very dangerous had someone been in front of it. You can use a soapy water mixture to see if you are "leaking off" at either the plug size or on the actual pressure text manifold too. Let me know if this helps, happy to share more.
Hey Chris, I don't have a parts list, but you should be able to find all of these materials at any big-box hardware store. Good luck with your project!
Probably so, but as a few other's have commented, you just want to be careful anytime you have PVC under pressure with air. I think I've seen some all PVC designs available out there though. Thanks for the comment.
I can say I was successful using air to test with no leakage from the ball valve at all, and I had lines under pressure for up to 24 hours. I did use a soapy water solution to check for any leaks, once everything was tightened up I was good to go. I know some people do use water instead of air to test with as well. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the comment and feedback, great suggestion on the use of water as an alternative to air. Safety has to be a big focus anytime you pressurize a line for sure.
You didn't show how you stopped the other end, or used the air compressor to get 30lbs. you know the tough stuff.. you talked a lot in the first 2/3 about not much. This could have been a 3 min video. But thanks.
That manifold looks great, good thing you added the tie down, no one like a run away manifold
Thank you for the detailed video. We've built a 16' x 36' pool and completed the plumbing last night, only to learn that the first pool pressure test is done prior to backfilling using air. Luckily, I'll not have to cut off the two manifolds. I'll simply use your design with my existing unions! Thank goodness! You've saved me a lot of frustration, time, and expense.
Really happy you got value from this video! Hope your pressure test goes well and you can move on with the build and be swimming just in time for summer! Thanks for the comment.
Just what I needed
Great to hear! Thanks the comment.
Great video
Appreciate the comment! Thank you very much
Great video. How are you threading that 1/2 in nipple into the 1/4 inch pvc bushing? Or is that bushing actually 1/2 inch female threaded?
Good video. We need to pressure test a 1 1/2" solvent weld pool system before backfilling and concreting in so this is very helpful
Good luck with the project, and glad this video was helpful. Thanks for the comment!
This is a great video. Can you also build an open stem plug to create a closed loop, in case I need to add fix-a-leak (or any leak fixer product) to the faulty line? in my case is the suction line. I don't want the fixing product to be all over the system or the pool.
Hey there, thanks for the comment. I have not used any leak-fix products but don't why you couldn't modify this type of design to allow you to install as a closed loop. Check out LeakTronics channel, they have a ton of content covering leak detection and repair: czcams.com/users/leaktronics
How did you go about stopping up the return jets at the pool to maintain pressure?
On my skimmers I was able to use a threaded PVC plug and had to wrap the threads good with a teflon tape to get a good seal. Then on my returns I used an actual rubber plug that was made specifically for pressure testing applications. They are similar to a rubber winterizing plug, except instead of a tapered design they are a consistent size/circumference on both ends. I ordered them off of amazon for the PVC pipe size I had (2"). If you try to use the normal rubber winterizing plugs, be very careful as they will have a high chance of blowing out especially if you test up to 30 psi. I had tried this and had one blow out, would have been very dangerous had someone been in front of it. You can use a soapy water mixture to see if you are "leaking off" at either the plug size or on the actual pressure text manifold too. Let me know if this helps, happy to share more.
I guess you could use a decent cycle pump also instead of an air compressor ?
I would think so, should work just fine. Thanks for the comment!
30psi is pretty high when we only test gas lines to 5kpa/1psi
do you have a parts list for this manifold that you can share?
Hey Chris, I don't have a parts list, but you should be able to find all of these materials at any big-box hardware store. Good luck with your project!
Can you use all PVC?
Probably so, but as a few other's have commented, you just want to be careful anytime you have PVC under pressure with air. I think I've seen some all PVC designs available out there though. Thanks for the comment.
The ball valve is watertight but are we sure it's airtight?
I can say I was successful using air to test with no leakage from the ball valve at all, and I had lines under pressure for up to 24 hours. I did use a soapy water solution to check for any leaks, once everything was tightened up I was good to go. I know some people do use water instead of air to test with as well.
Thanks for the comment!
Water is far safer to use than air- you can compress air, can't compress water. Plus if it is leaking water, easier to find. 30 psi is high with air!
Thanks for the comment and feedback, great suggestion on the use of water as an alternative to air. Safety has to be a big focus anytime you pressurize a line for sure.
You didn't show how you stopped the other end, or used the air compressor to get 30lbs. you know the tough stuff.. you talked a lot in the first 2/3 about not much. This could have been a 3 min video. But thanks.