How To Buy an Overcoat - Gentleman's Gazette
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Find out how you can find the perfect overcoat for you! gentl.mn/how-to-buy-an-overcoat
GUIDES & VIDEOS YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT:
* Paletot - The Double Breasted Overcoat -gentl.mn/2CObFu1
* How To Style & Combine An Overcoat - gentl.mn/2Dg3LKR
* 16 Overcoat DO’s & DON’Ts - gentl.mn/2mqeDi5
* The Ulster Overcoat - gentl.mn/2AP6QyU
* Glued / Fused Suit vs. Half Canvas vs. Full Canvas Construction -
gentl.mn/2EvJUXw
SHOP THE VIDEO:
1. Cashmere Scarf in Forest Green Herringbone - gentl.mn/2DknVDN
2. Cognac Brown Tan Men's Dress Leather Gloves - gentl.mn/2AOL8uK
3. Off White Boot Laces - gentl.mn/2qUVhGC
00:00 Buying A Great Overcoat Introduction
00:40 1. Should you go bespoke or with something off the rack?
Obviously, a bespoke overcoat is awesome because you can pick the fabric, you could pick the details, and the fit is going to be sublime. The problem is, a true custom garment is always very expensive.
01:32 2. Let's talk about the fit of the overcoat.
First of all, you want to make sure it has the proper shoulder width. Because you wear the overcoat on top of a jacket, it should be even further extended but not by too much otherwise, you'll get ugly wrinkles here and it just looks like a football player.
When it comes to overcoats sleeves, you want enough width in the sleeve especially on top because you're wearing something underneath a bit such as a sweater or a jacket and so you need extra room.
The second thing to consider is the sleeve length. Unlike a suit jacket or a sport coat, you don't want to show anything of your shirt cuff or your jacket sleeve.
03:35 3. Get a timeless style for your overcoat because that way, your investment will be a lasting one and you'll always enjoy wearing it.
So what style of overcoat should you buy?
The first overcoat is a Chesterfield. It's named after George Stanhope the 6th Earl of Chesterfield and it's a traditionally single-breasted garment with very short lapels and it's an overcoat that's very uneventful.
The second overcoat style is the covert coat. It is a style that first appeared in the late 19th century and originally was meant for horseback riding but by 1890, it was adopted by the masses. It's a short overcoat, it's usually about 34 inches long but definitely above the knee.
Next is the so-called Paletot. Today, the word paletot is used to describe a classic double-breasted overcoat with peak lapels that have no belts. It usually comes in colors of navy or charcoal or something else in dark because it's very business appropriate and you can also use it as an evening overcoat.
The fourth overcoat style is a so-called Ulster which is named after the Irish province of Ulster. It is usually a long roomy Donegal tweed overcoat and because of that, it's perfect for people who don't have to wear formal suits but wants something that is stylish and keeps them warm.
Last but not least, you may want to look into a polo coat. It's very similar to an Ulster overcoat, however, it has a tan color similar to the one I'm wearing.
08:27 4. What Overcoat fabric should you buy?
Ideally, you want something that is a hundred percent natural such as wool or cashmere maybe alpaca or if money is no object, maybe vicuna.
In terms of color, if you want something versatile, Navy or blue tones are probably best, gray can work as well, as well as brown and tan tones.
09:20 5. Pay attention to the construction of the overcoat.
Just like with suits, lower end models feature a glued canvas which won't last as long and you always want to go with a floating or sewn canvas.
0:36 6. If you want a stylish overcoat, skip department stores
and go with traditional haberdashers or sources that specialize in good overcoats.
10:02 7. Pay attention to overcoats year-round.
During the summer season, most people won't ever think about buying an overcoat but if you spot one, you can usually get it at a huge discount.
Consider buying a vintage overcoat. Personally, the vast majority of my overcoats are all vintage because I like the heavier fabrics. I like the difference in the weaves and they usually drape extremely well.
11:51 Outfit Rundown
#howtobuyanovercoat #mensovercoats #notsponsored
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Guys if you live in the UK you can find the most expensive overcoats and suits in charity shops. I got a 100% wool overcoat for £10. I’m so happy.
And yes it is bespoke. 😘😘😘😘
I got three.. yes three bespoke great coats for 30€. These weigh atleast 5kg each and is super thick.
I can maybe use them if the temperatures goes down to -50C... ;)
Where abouts in the UK are you Jurgen? I swear all the stuff I find in charity shops is cheap trash and often not a lot of choice for good menswear.
Daley over in West Sussex. Brighton to Horsham and Chichester.
thnx for the tip
When you mentioned the tip for shorter people, I instantly gave the video a thumbs up, Thanks for thinking of us shorter guys too!
1:02 Looks like an intro scene to a video game level.
Good video. I agree, eBay is a superb place to hunt for vintage clothing. For the sake of my wardrobe, I always try to un-package the garment outside and take it to the dry cleaners immediately, so as to minimize the chance of moths or moth eggs.
I made my first overcoat purchase while abroad on some of your previous advice and could not be happier! You make some of the highest quality content out there, keep it up!
I am obsessed with overcoats, I have something like 10 of them and I still look at them in the shops.
A purple overcoat with fur collar and gold tooth is best.
That looks like the Joker
@@Pfirtzer 😂
@@Pfirtzer Beat me to it ...Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! Forgive My Laughter. I Have A Condition
I picked up my grey hickey Freeman overcoat from northstrom rack for $150. Fits me just perfect. Enough for me to wear it without anything under or with a casual hoodie for a casual outfit. Im extremely happy. I was looking up cheap grey overcoats and I found one at northstrom. Its like it was meant for me. So incredibly pleased that I got such a expensive overcoat for such a steal
I have a dated 1940 Will Hill of nottingham double breasted heavy wool herringbone dark grey overcoat that was a lucky find on ebay as the seller never found the tag! Stunning coat.
WOW!!... The amount of details and information is exactly what I needed. Thank you!!!! Great content
I don't know if you already covered that but I would love to see a video or maybe even a series about where to buy vintage garments. Some of the second hand and vintage stores in my city really know what they have and even if they don't I would never be able to get any coat for 5€ for example.
Great video as usual; love your style and tips and tricks! 🙄
The Ulster is my favorite coat; love your hats; very dapper!!! ☺
I love the videos about overcoat you have made👍
Just as im thinking that you have the best overcoats and I have no idea where to buy one, I get this notification. Thanks
Glad to know an overcoat could be worn merely over a thick sweater. I now have multiple such coats. Mostly 80% wool blends as the equivalent in pure wool looked much shoddier (an interesting term) than the blends. I find that the length compliments my build by evenly distributing the weight as opposed to a thick jacket that can make a skinny guys legs look skinnier.
Your outfit (main one) in the video is very nice, one of the best combinations I've seen.
great video Mr raphael , very detailed thank you
Those old adverts had a nice reference to Cordings in London. They still do some brilliant overcoats.
Really useful video which I thoroughly enjoyed. Thank you. One new subscriber...(and have already bought one overcoat!). Plans afoot for #2!
I think vintage is good too. I've found top quality top coats that are impeccable. Construction is usually far better than what's made today.
Very helpful
Well done!
Picked up an east German army trench coat for $60 USD. Superb and warm! It hit all the points you mentioned.
thanks for this guide! My family just recently relocated to the UK and looking for coats.
I normally go with a wool greatcoat with a lovely bottle-green collar. Never been cold in that thing.
I wear a M1907 imperial German infantry overcoat in the winter. It's warm and unique, thoughts?
A man of culture as well I see
You can call yourself the luckiest man in the world
Umm.. Don't go to Russia in winter wearing that.
;)
Good for a walk
@@learndesignwithdev I don’t think the Russians would care too much about that.
When I hit the megabucks in Las Vegas, follow your guide to bespoke . 😂
Hi Raphael, how about a video on country style wear (British) what to wear out in the countryside? Many thanks
....... this is a classy young man , and the presentation was excellent ........
Another comprehensive and useful video, Sven.
At 7:44, surely an Ulster overcoat is made of either Irish or British tweed and not exclusively British tweed? In the case that the overcoat is made of Donegal tweed, this must always be made of Irish tweed as Donegal is in the Republic of Ireland and not the United Kingdom.
Thank you for another wonderful upload.
You give advice reading the wool weight 30oz is great and pure 100% wool is ideal buying vintage is a great choice they are heavier weight wool and depending on the year it was made the interal construction is much much better thankyou for your video I enjoy watching you explain the details
I'm going on a vintage market just the day after tomorrow expecting to find a good overcoat and maybe some accessories for a decent price.
Rafael, one shoulder being two inches lower than the other one might be quite common (typically caused by lots of sitting and asymmetrical using of computer/laptop/smartphone/gearshift/you name it), but it's definitely not okay and it might cause problems with spine, hips, kness etc. in the future. A good physiotherapist or an excellent personal trainer should be able to help with it quite easily. Of course, being able to actually stand or sit upright with your shoulderblades down, back and wide (as oposed to common "sitting mens' " up, in front and narrow) causes problems when buying off the rack jackets and shoes.
Great video! A bespoke overcoat for $2000? That's a bargain compared to the Ralph Lauren purple label I saw for $5k. With that, I am watching this to get a good overcoat for the winter.
Getting a custom made garment depends of a lot of factors, but the vast majority of the cost is wether it’s hand made or machine made, I would recommend buying the fabric and then taking it to your Taylor
@@jackdaugaard-hansen4512 that isn’t a bad idea, either.
Geniales los vídeos se agradecería que hubieran mas traducidos al español como este
Can you make a video about how to Dapper?.... That would be really dapper
4:50 top 5 coats. Chesterfield/covert coat(short)/paletot
I just pick up a wool Christian Dior overcoat for $50. At a thrift shop. In excellent condition. Originally priced at $5,300. I’m debating on taking to the dry cleaners or doing it myself
150$ for alterations? In Poland i could probably get one made for me for that much money (excluding the materials)
How about a shearling Ulster Overcoat? Should be plenty warm!
Nice
I need to find where you got that tan overcoat.
Got an overcoat took it to school and the first time I got some heads turning, today I took it again with a different style and yeah people called me James Bond
Let's all buy a vicuna overcoat!
Are the weight recommendations at the end of the video meant as per square foot, meter or the whole jacket?
this tan overcoat reminds me of the Vault-Tec guy in fallout 4
Right now I myself have the money to buy either a Overcoat or a pair of shoes(A good leather pair with a good-year welt) and I have a Swedish trench coat and a old military trench coat which does not fit me well. Which do you think I should get first and what I should get in either case for the rainy Oregon weather?
What about lodens? That’s a different style of overcoats. I would like you to talk about lodens style and fabric. I’m thinking about Schneiders loden coat.
what fabric should the lining be?
I just picked up a cashmere overcoat from Jos A Bank. It is single breasted and I am considering returning it because when I wear it over a suit jacket the edge of the suit lapels show slightly when I button the coat. I am wondering if this is ok or should I return it. I normally wear a 42R in suit. Originally I purchased the coat in 44R, but it seemed too big and the lapels showed alot, so I exchanged for a 42R coat and the suit fits perfect in the shoulders and chest, but the lapels still show a bit. I searched a few websites and one advised when the coat is buttoned, suit lapels should not show at all. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you!
Would you recommend a cashmere in color black? No navy or grey available at the store near me.
What are your thoughts on the Balmacaan?
what's the type of material in the coat he's wearing in the beginning? I am on a budget so I'm gonna look on amazon to find something old and vintage looking like that
opinion on a ted baker overcoat?
I’m lookin to buy a covert cook I’m a 44/46 UK what size should I consider buying
Lodenfrey coat still in?
Enjoyed the video. The best overcoat I've seen and tried to find in my opinion was warn by former Dallas Cowboys quarterback Troy Aikman. If I ever meet, my first question will be where do you get that overcoat!
indyMode Studios during super bowl coverage?? what event was he wearing it at??
i just dont like the belt in the coat i think a button would be better than tight it up i think it would look classier. how about making a leather coat?
where exactly do I even go to find a good overcoat? I live in North Dakota and want a quality overcoat to go with my suit, but no one on the west side of the state carries them
A Chesterfield coat has a velvet collar
Rapheal, see an osteopath, they can fix the inbalance of the higher shoulder, it's because you've been leaning on one side more than the other and the hip is out of line, they can lower the hip which allows the shoulder to be lowered too. They can correct the spine too that can lean more to the left or right.
This is fixable, I see one yearly and do it because I'm always leaning on the sofa(couch) lol.
I know you live up north so I have to ask what you consider a mild winter? Here in Fort Worth TX, we get winters that range from 0-60 degrees Fahrenheit in a single week. Which overcoat would you say is good for a wider range of temperatures?
Burberry trach coat would be enough.
I have found that there isnt even any idea to try and get a real good quality overcoat withing a budget if you want classic fit and details, good quality and the right materials..
Latest 4 overcoats I got has been vintage and at arount 25€ each and with 50€ in adjustment cost I got myself clothes that must cost in exess about 1000€ each today...
Thomas Wallblom yeah same here, I got vintage harris tweed overcoat and vintage fox brothers wool overcoat. In Helsinki 25euro each. The fox one would cost about 800 now. There both beautiful coats in mint condition and keep the minus 15 temperatures easily at bay. Both are non fussy and classic in style. Love em
Awesome find!
I feel so jealous of you guys.
:)
this dudes videos are great.. but ill keep shopping on ebay. lol
thanks.
British overcoats; is it coz we is cold even in summer?
What do you think about swedish officer's greatcoat? I got one from conservation for 25€, changed buttons to get civil look and it looks really nice now.
I'm not familiar with the Swedish officer's coat, but the wool Swiss officer's coat that I picked up surplus was the warmest coat that I ever owned. It had the fold-over cuffs, silk lining and pop-up lapel. I paid only $10 for it many years ago, but now I can't find that exact model anywhere.
I just found one, nevermind: www.ebay.com/itm/SWISS-ARMY-COAT-Wool-Trench-Cross-Buttons-Double-Breasted-Large-XL-46AA/152881211717?hash=item23986e2945:g:v84AAOSwt4xaYQq3
It looks very similar to the Swedish officer coat but I like the röda lacket on the epaulets of the Swedish coat.
Raphael, do you know how to remove a dank, cellar/old clothes smell from a WOOL overcoat? One that I bought in November from Germany was taken to the cleaners and even they could not totally remove the smell. Is this maybe something where I need to take it repeatedly, or just try a DIY like hanging it in a closet with a charcoal smell absorption can; I'm kind of unsure to be honest.
Eric Williams , you might be surprised that simply hanging in the open air can give great results.
Yeah do that or junk it. Wool overcoat should never wear old. Wool have oil it help with bacteria. You can tell how dirty it is with a bare hand.
how do they size overcoats for over a suit jacket?? is it the same tagged size as the jacket? or do you get one 2 sizes bigger or something?
The coats are just wider and not that slim in the first place because you tend to wear atleast 1 or 2 layers underneath. If you´re a 48 then go for a 48- it should fit just fine normally. What I find most important is the fit at the armpit- if its too wide it will always look extremely goofy if you hold on somthing in the bus/metro and a backpack feels bad wearing.
I'm looking for a camel coat
Ilove you gentlemen gazette channel great educational content provider channel Iam English white Christian
Nice video, but I have no idea where to find these vintage overcoats. Those kinds of second hand shops do not really exist here.
Don't it disgusting and just impossible to clean.
Brands you recommend for overcoats?
Burberry, Hugo boss, etc. Old man brand kind of. You can go with Armani if you want design.
Crombie
Why the tradition of tying overcoat/trench coat belts instead of using the buckle?
Me watching this video After placing the order 😂
How to buy an overcoat:
1. Google: Luxire
2. Have money
3. Throw money at your screen
4. Wait impatiently by the door until your package arrives
5. Congrats, you just bought an overcoat
Luxire
i usually walk in and hand the guy money.
I agree with all except the Trench coat out of style. The Trench coat as you might see inspector clouseau, Paul Drake, Perry Mason or Humphrey Bogart wearing will always be in style, especially in inclement weather. I have a black one and an off white. Both are double breasted and belted. I personally do not think wool overcoats look well with belts. I have four. One single breasted camel hair and one double breasted camel hair. One each in black too. They are all 100% wool. All come down to my knee or just below.
Mmm
I am in the UK and there is nowhere to go too buy quality men's clothing. Online is also a disaster. Why is there no web site where I can go and put in ALL (yes all of my measurements), choose my style and material and get a garment made. Just went to a web site that is going to help me with my wardrobe they asked my hair and eye color. What!
Sorry but I am a gentlemen in my 50s I know myself and what I want and there is nowhere I can go to get that.
Yes I can take the train into London to Savile Row and get everything I want for thousands of her majesty's imperial credits of the realm (that's pounds sterling to our friends in the USA). But outside of the top establishments in London and Manhattan these are sad days for gentemen's attire
Donegal tweed is in fact Irish not British. Donegal is a county in Ireland. My uncle was a traditional Donegal tweed hand-weaver.
How to buy an overcoat: Walk into store, give cashier money, walk out with overcoat
Then realize that its made of 100% polyester so either freeze or sweat to death ;)
If you wear boots, the coat should cover the top of your boots.
And you are ready to reenact ww1.
11:26 The SI symbol for gram is "g" not "gm". FFS.
How can a German not know that? Or for that matter, how can anyone of the 96% of the world's population who is metric not know that?
You do realize that converters exists for a reason right?
I thought it was 30 degrees, not 38, get your story straight! 😀
You talk very speedly ..please slowly reduce your speed and talk ...