Repairing damaged or lifted pads on a circuit board
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 10. 2019
- When replacing components on a circuit board, sometimes you may accidentally remove or damage the pads used to hold that component in place. Here are a few helpful tips for providing strong, long-lasting repairs for damaged or missing pads.
#soldering #electronics #tutorial
T-SHIRTS
Do you like my wacky t-shirts? I buy all of them from Qwertee. Use the discount code: BranchusCreations to get £1/€1/$1 off your order. Check out the range here:
bit.ly/3OrJZkT
If you enjoy the content and would like to support the channel, please consider becoming a Patron:
/ branchuscreations
Of if would like to make a small donation, you can do so here:
www.paypal.me/branchus
Tools/Products used (paid links):
SOLDERING IRON
Hakko FX951: amzn.to/31QvCMW
SOLDERING IRON TIPS:
Bevelled edge soldering iron tip (T12-BC2): amzn.to/45NSrBK
Small bevelled soldering iron tip (T12-C1): amzn.to/3YVH5K0
Bent conical soldering iron tip (T12-JL02): amzn.to/3sx8lSU
Chiselled soldering iron tip (T12-KU): amzn.to/44tAo2A
HOT AIR STATION:
Quick 861DW: amzn.to/2ZjYzPH
SOLDER:
Kester 63/37 0.5mm diameter: amzn.to/3uviEIg
FLUX:
StirriASM: amzn.to/43nT05e
SOLDER WICK:
Goot Wick 2mm: amzn.to/3YWlRvw
TWEEZERS:
Hakko CHP 3-SA: amzn.to/2NqkhPz
DT71 DIGITAL MULTIMETER TWEEZERS:
amzn.to/41VcvSb
OTHER:
Vevor 30L Ultrasonic Cleaner (5% off on all Vevor sites code: VVMH5%OFF):
AU site: s.vevor.com/bfP7q7
US site: s.vevor.com/bfP7uN
EU site: s.vevor.com/bfQaMb
-----------------------------------------------------
Component suction tool (vacuum pen): amzn.to/44xyPkm
Microscope: amzn.to/2HnSI5H
Microscope camera: amzn.to/2TdSYsZ
Budget alternative microscope: amzn.to/2PmRagt
Budget alternative soldering station (uses T12 tips): amzn.to/2SeUpHg
Budget alternative hot air rework: amzn.to/3fN1ZU7
Helping hands (third hand): amzn.to/31JUhVL
Ultrasonic cleaning fluid: amzn.to/2YusoQQ
Fume extractor: amzn.to/2HuG0oU
UV Solder mask: amzn.to/2ZnK1yu
Swann Morton curved scalpel blades: amzn.to/2oN7qNn
No. 3 Scalpel Handle: amzn.to/2ngcx85
Kapton heat resistant tape: amzn.to/2xBnTso
28 AWG enamelled magnet wire (thick): amzn.to/32cRsLf
34 AWG enamelled magnet wire (med): amzn.to/35Bx20D
40 AWG enamelled magnet wire (thin): amzn.to/2J2Aisf - Věda a technologie
The Bob Ross of Circuit Boards. I'm so relaxed and feel like I can accomplish anything!
One of these types of things fell off of the back plate of my GPU a p106-100 6gb compute only GPU.
I fell asleep watching this :( so relaxing....
Agreed I just found this channel this minute and you hit the nail right on the head there..
This reply is perfect, it's true.
This dude rules
My cat and I were EXTREMELY confused by that whistling. Subscribed.
Im certain he lives in a jungle of sorts lol
Same. After a few times I was wondering if it was outside and what bird it was, or if it was in the recording.
Pro tip, don't drink red bull and take adhd pills for at least 8 hours before trying to hold on to 36awg with tweezers under a microscope
I'll keep that in mind!
Nah this is so real I can’t do any delicate task soldering for at least 2-3 hours after I drink coffee under the scope it looks like I got Parkinson’s 😅
Thanks, man. I'm doing a Mac Classic. Got a little excited and ended up ripping a pad off of C5. I told myself that it's not the end of the world. You confirmed that.
This was a tremendous help. I got the info I needed within the first few minutes and then just kept watching the rest of the video while I made my own repairs. Helpful and relaxing!
I’ve really enjoyed watching you repair the pads and traces in two of your videos, but the thing I’ve enjoyed most is that you call what you are doing soldering not soddering 😂😂
I have been trying to repair a hard drive for months and had to change the rom chip from the original pcb to a donor pcb for it to work, while doing so I damaged 3 of the 8 pads on the pcb I had to install the rom chip, when that happened I tought that was it, that I lost that hard drive for good. Thanks to your video I could repair it and right now im backing up all the data. Thank you so much, I suscribed to your channel, you are awesome!
I'm not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover
electronics repair course
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my colleague got excellent results with it.
Thanks. Very nice instructional video. I like how good you communicate, keep it funny, and very informative. One of the best channels I have come across in a while now. Keep it up
Fantastic! Some very good tips! Very helpful, informative, and with very good camera shots. I like the manner in which you present the information. Thank you so much!
This is now my favorite channel! Thank you!
I think this video is more on how to avoid or bypass repairing pads and runs using short cuts on how to get your equipment to work. I have to give you Props on originality at time index 12:49 putting the component slightly sideways, however this is not a professional way on how to do it. There was enough pad area to overlap a new pad, glue it done or even use an Eyelet to anchor it, even a wire would work. I know that running a business you have to take short cuts to get the job done, get it to work and out the door, so that's why I thought your approach was economically acceptable just not professional. Retired Avionics & Avionics Test Set Technician of 42 years & formerly Certified Solder Technician of several years. Still I enjoyed the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Still watching some of your other tutorials. Now I feel stupid. I never thought to use solder wick to pull solder out of a soldering point (hole). I've always used a solder sucker which does a crappy job. You made it look so easy and it came out very clean. Ordering fresh solder wick.....
This was great, thanks, I been tryin to find out about "how to find a hot leg on a circuit board" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Giyathan Bewildering Gratification - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? It is an awesome exclusive product for discovering how to repair your electronic items like a wizard without the headache. Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my mate got great success with it.
Oh, hell yeah! It works like a charm! Thanks!
Thanks for this. Really helped me fix my 3 year old daughter's toy that grandma and grandpa bought her. Now it's time to buy good solder, an iron that doesn't come from wal mart, and more flux. Learned that from another of your videos
This was very helpful, indeed. I equally appreciated your polite conversational demeanor, albeit, one way. 👌🏻
I was delighted to come across this as I was struggling with damaged CF pinout pads. Wonderfully clearly presented. A great teacher. Thank you.
I've just destroyed a couple of little 8 legged eeprom pads,they are tiny.This has given me the idea that you really dont have to replace the actual pad,just as long as you make the connection!
Which has given me a little more confidence.
I thought i would have to glue on little pads to the board for the eeprom legs then solder!
Great video. Learned so much from it. Amazing tips and tricks and knowledge in general about traces. I have a messed up pads under an ic chip and I wasn't sure where to connect them if their trace point was right next to them haha being confused from the openboard of where it connects to, I assumed i needed to connect the jumper wire there but I reckoned that all I had to do was connect to its trace point and thats all, thanks to you. appreciate it mate.
I love how you tought this. Thank you so much !
My electric shaver broke because it has a contact pad switch and the pads were corroded. Cleaned the pads. Put some solder on there, tried to level it out as much as possible. Now it works again.
Super video. Very high quality cameras. Nice you have the microscope to show clearly what you are doing.
.........and the Koel in the background loved the video too!
I really appreciate your attention to detail with following traces and pads and making things look as nice as possible, not many people do that. It peavs me to see sloppy work done. Thank you!!
@@lfino100 yes went and signed up we will see and thank you for the info!
...very rare repair tips...thanks to the internet and you..a sound mind is critical for this jobs...frustrations is not an option..
Find a problem with a board, go to youtube to find a solution, go through a lot of information light videos, end up finding a Branchus Creations which tells me most of what I need to know and answers some questions I have too. Standard.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing! You gave the confidence to repair a small flight controller board with a torn off pad, small diode, using your angle method. It worked!
so glad I found your channel the tips and tricks for board repairing traces and tracks is amazing :)
Learn lots of new things. Thank you sir for showing us your amazing skills.
Thanks for providing links for all your gear...I wish more guys would do that 👍
Excellent video, tons of great tips & advice!
Excellent video, brilliantly explained. Thanks for sharing.
I enjoyed seeing your video. You explained well. Lovely bird singing in background.
czcams.com/video/eCFrRsBCKHc/video.html, red eyed bird xD
@@josip1881 thanks for the video of the bird. Now I know the mysterious bird.
word of advice for anyone making own pcbs, make the pads much bigger that the component contacts, it will make your life much easier
That really was a GREAT real life and road tested approach that we would take years to amass ourselves! Down and dirty! LOL Not a criticism. Rather a compliment! Thanks Mate! So glad I added this to my mental data base. I was actually looking on how to repair round pads where heat from components through the holes lifted them off the board. Maybe copper tape and high temp epoxy and soldering to exposed traces? You'd be a great teacher for those techniques as well if you are looking for another show and tell! Thanks again! Cheers!
Very helpful and you make it look easy. Nice, clear, in-close camera work as well.
Great video, I wish I had this Infos as I broken my amstrad 6128 and threw it away afterways :) thanks for that, another food lesson learned!
Thank you so much! You saved my drawing tablet! It lives again!
It's so sad that your sub count is low. This is repair gold! These videos have raised my confidence in trace repair.
Thank you so much for that tutorial. An impossible task looks so easy now.
Dude thank you so much! I am a beginner, and I wasn’t initially using as much flux as was necessary, and this has helped me salvage some earlier diy projects I fucked up
Good flux makes a word of difference. I'vr personally found that the flux core in solder lead just vaporizes too quickly for most jobs, at least rework and things with a bit of thermal mass.
Just remember: Use ventilation. Fume extractor is king, but at minimum a fan to blow the fumes away from you. Flux fumes are hazardous as hell. And - remember to clean off the flux afterwards, unless it's truly no-clean type, and that you _know_ it comes from the original manufacturer. If eg. a 10cc tube of the very popular Amtech 559 flux costs $2-7, it's fake. Original is more than twice that, straight from Amtech. *_Most_* of the cheap flux you can get on the internet (like Amtech 599), is fake stuff. Only on _very_ rare occations, you might get genuine but out-of-date stuff. Some of the fake stuff does a very decent job as a flux while soldering - but you have no idea how it will behave if left on the board long term. Some of ir can be corrosive. All of it will be tacky (which can become a serious problem if it's an actively cooled device, as it'll collect and trap huge amounts of dust and other crud from the air cirulating through it. And dust is commonly conductive.).
Only leave flux on the board if you know it will behave according to the original manufacturer spec (and those properties are ok with your particular project).
@@josefinasolorzano3784 SPAM
@@jenniferrey4787 SPAM
Great Video! I have a similar issue, the pads are gone but have no holes to solder a wire into, and the only thing left is a thin trace to where the pads were... I'm going to try a combination of your trace repair with your pad repair and hope for the best. Thanks for the video!
I also repair like this but working with smd's and to save time as a righthanded learned to also solder lefthanded instead of constantly flipping the board.
Works great.
nice
Great clear video that put me in the right mindset to quickly fix my broken pad problem, thanks!
That's great to hear!
Just last Friday I managed to partially rip two pads on a colour classic analog board while removing capacitors. This video was god sent! Thanks.
Sorry, logic board, the pads were from a logic board. By the way, is there any method to glue a new pad to the board? So to better fix an smd capacitor. Then one could link to the via using the enameled wire.
Meticulous work sir, thumbs up !
Thanks for the very useful video (esp for clumsy fools with too-hot irons like me) and shoutout to the very atmospheric birdsong in the background!
Before watching this video, i tried to repair an smd cap, both pads missing, by using solder wick for the conductor and solder to hold it directly to the traces. Really ugly and falls apart if I gently bump it by accident with a finger - just a mess.
Glad I watched this vid, now I can try doing it properly.
Thank you I learned loads from that video. Paul
Great video! It sure helped me fix a microphone board that I thought was doomed w a lifted pad.
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for
electronic repair service
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my friend got cool success with it.
Great video. Thanks so much!
Radio Shack used to sell a "Pre-tinned wire" (278-1341) that I used for similar repairs. It works great through vias since it will flow solder right through and never had an enamel coating in the first place. If you're the type to save component leg trimmings for making jumpers, it's a bit like having a 50ft spool of component leg!
At around 17 minutes you trimmed the excess wire on one side when you still had work to do on the other. I suggest leaving that extra length there until you have the other end secured. As you demonstrated earlier in the video, a short little wire like this will often reflow existing solder while you are working on the other side. This can cause difficulties if you are making a particularly short and precarious jumper. The extra length at the other end gives it more thermal mass and makes solder less likely to unintentionally reflow at the other side.
I tend to do the repairs as I see them, and I don't always necessarily do them the same each time. And I do (regularly) look back at some repairs and think "I would have been better off doing that one a different way", but that's just part of the fun!
Thanks for explaining that in such detail. I've soldered things for years and just wing it on most things. When I was repairing a subwoofer recently, I pulled pulled up a trace connecting one of the capacitors I was replacing to the board. This saved my bacon. I was worried I had ruined the board.
Lovely Video clip! Apologies for chiming in, I would love your thoughts. Have you heard the talk about - Tarbbatigan clean errors Tip (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? It is a great one off guide for discovering how to fix electronic devices minus the normal expense. Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my friend Sam at very last got cool success with it.
Hi Bruce I'm in England and I've took up electronic as my hobby I'm a big fan of your channel great video s mte
Nice video, nice chap. I would suggest to not use wire with enamel at short reroutings, use normal (naked) wire instead (stripped from a cable or such), only use it when you have to. I would suggest to clean the wire first with a knife to be sure the copper is fully exposed. The problem of wire with enamel is that you need to be sure it is burned away completely and you need to provide more heat to do this. When it is covered by solder, you are unable to see what is going on under the solder, there may be contaminants or a (sticky) cold solder joint. To avoid this, clean the wire first, it is better to clean it first to be sure there is always a good connection in the smallest period of time to heat/stress other pads, tracks or components.
Tip: When you are in need of wire with enamel, try to reuse coils from a spare board. It is cheap, plenty available and evironment friendly. ;-)
Yes, I agree that NOT ALL enamel wire is good for melting and leaves oxidation residue with poor solder joints. BUT he may be using an enamal wire that is made for the purpose of melting and tinning. By the smell he points out, I don't think it is. Myself, I prefer uninsulated solid copper wire for short runs and wire from old network/telephone cables for long runs. Another method for sourcing and wiring thin component tracks is to use a few strands of copper wire from your solder braid. Just unravel the strands to length required. Solder braid is a tinning wonder wire! And has more uses that just mopping up solder. Still, this was another great video which I will refer to all the time to refresh my repairing methods. SUBSCRIBED!
excellent video Bruce - interesting bird call in the background. KR AndyT(UK)
If I remember rightly, the bird call is from an Eastern Koel.
this is a very great tutorial for person like me wrongly remove the pad from pcb thanks a lot
Thanks so much for this lesson! I though for sure that a device was a gonner since it had two pads ripped out. But I'm still not sure if I am skilled enough to repair. Well, it'll be an interesting learning experience at the very least. :D
Thanks so much for sharing these insights, you just saved me 50€ for a replacement board! ❤️
I'd recommend to anyone that needs to do this kind of pad rebuild the jumper coil strategy. It scales from the smallest pads up to very large pads and with the correct gauge wire the component will sit flush. Assuming you use the correct overcoat color the repair can in some cases be practically invisible.
All those missing and eaten pads! Reminds me of the original PC Engine DUO! One I bought was like this. After watching this video, I may go back and try to repair it! Fantastic video!
Its the wildlife in the background that was thinking I was drinking too much, lol.great info.
I thought a new species of animal had moved in. I had to keep stopping the video and listening. Could not tell if it was outside my house or on the video for a while there !
I'm not sure but ,if anyone else wants to learn about
laptop repair
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my brother in law got excellent results with it.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else wants to learn about
how to repair electronics devices
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my cousin got great results with it.
I think that's his Tui assistant
Sounded like a curlew
if you want to repair the pads and you have some donor boards around sometimes you can try and cut some pads of with the trace on it and then stick it on the broken pad, i use to do that if its a smd ic where sometimes you cannot solder a wire because of the space
Great job, excellent video
Good work. Thanks.
This video saved my life!
U just saved my day big big thanks keep going!!
Excellent video, Bruce! I'm working on a Mac SE/30 board right now (my first) that has several broken traces and a few lifted pads (thanks to an exploded Maxell battery). Your YT videos are superb - they've given me a lot of confidence on tackling what is a rather daunting endeavor. On my board, I have broken traces that lead to vias. The copper on the via is no longer there. What's the best way to handle this? These would be the vias that are near and around the battery holder. Thanks for the excellent work. I have already subscribed and look forward to learning more from you.
Thank you for the awesome video
What temperature do you set the iron to?
I have done some work with 'enamelled' copper wire and find I need the iron set to 450 degrees Centigrade to melt off the polyeurothane insulation, and although I can do it in situ like you have done, I am not keen as it is easy to damage tracks with the high temperatures required.
My preference is to use stripped Kynar insulated wire because the wire is silver coated and does not need tinning, quite often you can melt the solder in the via and push the wire in and it will solder, even without flux.
Do you ever consider the amp draw to choose the wire gauge to use when repairing a circuit board ? For example a pad and trace feeding a relay that triggers a 20 amp load at 120 AC...If yes what is your selection process and criteria ? Thank you.
Very excellent tutorial I must say,plus I really admire the quality of your scope, clear and crispy imaging and I can only wonder what it's make and specs are,very impressive!
Thank you! Details for almost all the equipment I use are in the video description. If there's anything you can't find there, please let me know.
Brilliant, thank you!
Great video!
That was fabulous. Thank you!
Hey mate thanks for your videos
Very helpful ! By the way you are the bob ross of soldering very relaxing :D greetings from germany
'm not sure but ,if anyone else wants to uncover
circuit board trace repair
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some decent things about it and my m8 got amazing success with it.
Thank you..very helpful
thanks for doing such a brilliant video and great tips
Best practice dictates that you would always make sure your enamel wire, or any type of wire is pre-tinned before any soldering is performed.
This ensures the least amount of time required to solder the component, thus reducing the amount of time heat is applied to both component and PCB. It also reduces the amount of gunk created due to the enamel being burnt off while you're trying to solder. The cleaner everything is up front, the faster the soldering process gets done and the least amount of heat needs to be applied. But they obviously do things differently in Crocodile Dundee land. Cheers from NZ
Mine is not necessarily the right way, just the way that works for me.
Really good stuff! :)
"We won't worry about that pad, because it doesn't go anywhere"
So essentially, on that board it doesn't require that leg of the IC chip?
Fascinating. I may be dealing with a similar situation. 2 out of 8 pads came off, but may only have to repair one.
Kevin Ketelson just be careful that it’s not a multilayer board. At work we use 7 different layers of traces. It may be an internal trace.
Thankfully, those legs of the IC chip were redundant on this board, so it didn't need them. SWEET! They were literally just anchor points.
@@hunterday2573 - an "internal trace" still has to connect to the other layer. So there will always be a via (hole) to get it there.
Thank you for your time . Great Video well Done ,just started wathcing and goind to buy a soldering station tomarrow . What type of magnafier would u reakmind i do were glasses but not blind lol
What temp are you setting your soldering iron to? And what gauge of solder is that?
This is excellent, thanks for going through and showing.
BTW, have you ever seen “The Fast Show” ??? Your presenting style is very reminiscent of said tv programme!
Love the demo! But what if you have old solder that won’t melt, how do you deal with it? Your a pro, what was that copper braided cord you used to clean out the old solder. Do you have a video to show how to deal with old globes of solder?
If you were an university, I'd like to study there! Your videos are awesome.
Hi, I have used stained glass copper foil, cut it carefully and as it has a thermal activated glue, I fix it to place and then solder the component.
that sounds like a great idea
I notice that the connections are covered in Flux when you get finished. While Flux is not as conducive as Copper, it will allow small currents and can create reliability problems at higher frequencies such as in Digital circuits. If intermittent problems arise, consider cleaning the puddles of Flux off the PCB.
I am using a non-conductive "no clean" gel flux. However, if you watch to the end of the video you'll see that the board does get thoroughly cleaned once complete, for the sake of neatness.
Very nice. I need a few hundred hours of practice before I get that steady.
I have a piano keyboard that has some of the grey colour pads stripped off and can't make a sound, how do I replace this grey key pads on the keyboard
i have used this method often but i wonder, will copper tape cut to the size of the pad and some e-7000 conductive glue work?
Edit: I ask because some boards are all SMT and the traces may not have anything in sight to anchor to.
How many years needs to have that dexterity?VERY NICE!
Hi I really enjoyed watching your video. Just wondering what type of flux you are using to dispense it so easily. I've tried the liquid flux with the little brush, which was rubbish stuff, the solid flux in a tin, which is hard to work with.
Awesome video, thank you, I have used similar techniques in the past, but never thought of using thicker wire, usually just use wire wrap wire and hot glue the hell out of it, I like your idea better :)
Excellent video.... I have a question regarding the main board from a DJ turntable. My friend removed a DSP chip from this board but also removed 2 pads. They are totally gone. Can this still be repaired somehow? I have a pic, let me know if I can try to upload to you
BOB ROSS! Love it
loved this video
Beautiful work! I watched your video with delight 👍
Thank you. Your a great teacher.
Good job!!!
What kind and brand of adhesive is used to adhere something to the motherboard?