2 tricks to improve door and window casings you AREN'T using.
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- čas přidán 4. 03. 2022
- An historic and classical building method for door and window casing is called Crossetted Corners. This involved some unique cuts where the header meets the legs. This was often used to elevate and improve traditional spaces. Brent shows the two traditional methods from historical precedent.
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I'd love to see 30 minutes of this on HGTV. No forced humor, no contrived suspense--just education.
Me too!!
It's all right here, que it up and play it on your TV.
The corners of the doors are nice. A beautiful touch I’ve personally never seen before.
Glad you like it! Thx
By far the best craftsman on CZcams. My husband and I, are learning from all of your videos.
Thank you again and God bless.
That is awesome! Glad they are helping!!
Excellent film; you are a master artisan. Outstanding !
Thank you very much!
You’ve got so much more street cred to me that you walk up to that saw and pull the trigger yourself. I appreciate that you seem to want to drink it all in, not just one specialized aspect. That resonates with me. Master builder style.
Nicely done, brother.👍
Right on! Thanks for watching. I appreciate your feedback.
That's another detail I need to try. I experiment on my own home and it's a Bohemian nightmare. Gaudi would be proud. I have been using the Windsor trim all over the house that originally had 2 inch ranch trim everywhere. It still does randomly, but then there's Greek revival, classic and colonial everywhere. Now I'm doing this on the back door since our new rescue ate the casing the first day we went to dinner without him lol
LOL, well nothing wrong with making Gaudi proud. 😂
Loved this hands on style build video!
Glad you liked it!!
Understood the first one. Still have questions on the second method. Love leaning. Thanks for the videos.
Excellent! Ok. practice makes perfect.
Fantastic craftsman you are. Outstanding !
Thank you so much 😀
Very good, thanks Brent👍
Thanks for listening
Awesome ❤❤❤❤
Thanks.
First comment and first like! Love this channel, hope to utilize a lot of this wisdom one day, it's my dream to build my own house.
Make sure you buy and study Marianne Cusado’s book “Get Your House Right”
Brent refers to it all the time. You would be amazed at what high end designers and builders do wrong.
Go for it! And track your journey.
So true!!
Me, never touched a tool in my life but lover of historical architecture and preservation 🍿🍿🍿
Awesome. Thanks for watching.
Great video explaining the crossetted corners Brent! Was that actually a base cap or panel molding that you used for the back band? Hard to tell as everything is white. Obviously you can use anything for a back band, and even make your own. They look good on mantels also which I have seen a lot and have done myself.
A back band, but very similar to the panel mold/base cap. Thanks.
I’ve never seen that style outside of stately homes and I do believe it could be used in more modest houses. I do like the look of those casings. The stock that I am using for my door casings (only 19 frames and therefore 38 casings) is European oak flat stock about 4” wide by 1” thick. The aesthetic is Arts and Crafts/Mission - so quite plan with none or few mouldings. I’m wondering if that kick out look would work with flat stock and that A&C look.
For sure. I think it will read as a strong timbered header. Send pics when you get it done.
@@BrentHull thank you for the reply. I will make one mock up (as you did) and stand back to see the effect. Pictures will follow
I assume from another one of your videos that a double crossetted corner is when you bump out both the side and the top. Is that correct? Any thoughts on when that was commonly done?
Also, in method 1, how would you secure the little 1 x 1 square detailed block? With most jambs today only being 11/16" or less thick with a beveled edge I can see that nailing that separately could cause some issues with it laying flat. Do you build up your the entire casing on the table like you were doing here and then glue the detailed block to the casings edge then install then entire unit? or maybe after installing the casing, using a dap or two of construction adhesive in the square whole and place the detailed carving in gently leveling it as you do so. Or another method? Also how were they done in times past if different from your method you use today?
Yes on double crossette. There were many methods for the square. I suspected figured out on site as you suggest.
A mitered 45deg mullion using same head trim but with ends cut off , then get head trim cut into it basically a triangle and bam all the lines meet on the trim. This and that will make things pop , going to try it out 👍👍👍👍👍
Sweet. Good luck!
@@BrentHull Soaking up the knowledge like a sponge so more please. Already ordered 4 pieces of the Windsor one trim for 50$ a piece but I’m more interested in learning the harder way so today we going to have that video on repeat 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Please remind me gat d= in your drawing.
You got it!
I just realized why some greek revival door casing had the tapered casing on the side. It eliminates the need to edge glue a piece at the top by instead removing a long taper from the vertical casings, and leaving a chunk at the top to the wrap the corner out right? What is the term for the tapered casings seen on many greek revivals?
Good question. I would just call it a tapered leg. Thanks
Would it be appropriate to make the header the same width as the shoulders or horns?
Yes, I think there is a lot of historical precedent for many sizes. Just find something you like. Thanks
👍🏼
Thanks
I wondered what these corners were about. Mostly for appearance? I thought perhaps on the exterior they helped divert rainwater.
I suspect you're right.
in which architectural period would these look appropriate? My house is 1095 and has rosettes on the corners of all the doors. I would like to change these for something simpler, but elegant.
Corner block rosettes work. You could go colonial revival and less Victorian. Kuiken and Windsor have good solutions.
Nice, thanks. Looks like you’ve done that before.
Once or twice. 😀
For the first method, it seems to me like your cutting order is backwards, and it worked for you because you have done this door several times and know the correct numbers. When cutting the ears you decided to kick it out 1". In order to cut the ear and keep the reveal square, you should be measuring the inside 1", where you measured the outside 9" which would only work perfectly on a 4" molding. Seems to me that it would be more piratical to start at the top, build the ears, and only then could I measure the side trim height, especially if I was using some odd ball sized trim like 3 11/16 where the math is harder.
Now how important is for the square reveal to be square?
Would zero height be acceptable? For example, add 1" to the side trim pieces, still kick out 1" but cut the ears at 8" instead of 9 and the top the same?
Well, I guess you'll have to experiment and find out. Most of this is based on historic precedent., and is an effort to give your trim work more variety and appeal. I didn't even get into a double cossetted corner. Keep me posted on what you find out. I appreciate you giving it so much thought.
@@BrentHull Well after some reflection, (and some much needed sleep) the build order doesn't matter as long as you determine the square size in advance, but I maintain that the square size and trim size determines the ear size, as long as it's kept square which most examples so far show. I'll try messing around when I next get a chance.
I ve made a few casings with cross setted corners.
However, each time I had to start from scratch 😂.
It seems to me that I'll never perсeive this odd geometric tricks 😢
You'll get there. It takes practice. Thx.
@@BrentHull I hope so. With your videos 👍
sorry... 1905
😀
Omg. That awful, overpowering music is soooo distracting.
ok.
@@BrentHull But content is really relevant!