Worse than I thought...
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- #bmfgrage #foxbody #mustang
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SHE WIIL BE BACK!! Its worth it bro, you got this and when it’s done she will be better and so will you
Not the first vid I have seen with link bar failure. I think it was Howard's too.
Dam… that’s sad to hear….
I wish they could find a way to put a bit of caster in the roller so it wants to stay in the right position no matter what and don’t tell me it’s impossible there’s room to move it forward or backward just a little bit especially with a smaller roller. I think all it would mean is slightly different cam timing setting
Wow!! Sorry dude!!
Thanks brother
Oh man, that really sux! real curious to find out how that happened!
Same. Blows my mind that it would just break like that
You got this!!!!!!
Thanks buddy 💪🏾
Oh man ouch! it hurts so much when high-po parts fail like that. I always say when you’re putting parts like that in a car by the absolute best that money can buy. I don’t recognize the name but I don’t like it already. You got this, when it works it will feel better i guarantee
Howard’s are not cheap by any stretch…. But quality obviously isn’t there… I have buddies running these on their cars and love them.. hopefully the Anderson ones are better. For 800$ they better be. I’m even debating going with a hydraulic flat tappet so I don’t have to worry about link bars breaking ever again.
@@BMF_Garage i’ve got some Anderson parts and they are top-of-the-line but they are not valve train related so I don’t know and I would not be surprised if they are another brand but Anderson has their name put on. I haven’t had to buy internal engine parts in 10 years for my car so maybe Anderson is bigger than they were when I was shopping with them. Lets hope they are as good as other Anderson parts cause your right for that price they should instal themselves. I bought a power pipe off Anderson in 2009 roughly for my blower and it was 400 bucks that was one purchase that hurt especially when it got here and I saw just how simple it was but it did give the Performance gains it promised and still hasn’t cracked or faded or shown any signs of age. Considering how far down in my fender it put my air cleaner I didn’t think it was gonna last more than a couple years even being mandrel bent, no regrets except now that it’s easier to make it not so expensive
Mine broke in the same spot. Wiped out my cam. To much spring pressure is what did mine in possibly and possibly 8 years of racing ! My main and rod bearings looked mint.
Good to know! I think I’m switching to hydraulic flat tappet….
No more link bars
man that blows
To say I’m disappointed would be an understatement
Just watched the video man that sucks but dam it could have been much much much worse look forward for the next video.
Definitely could have been worse. Glad I shut it down when I did.
Never mind I see Howards
Bummer...
Why do we do these things to ourselves?
Because, it's cheaper than therapy and paying someone else to do the work for us.
If it weren't for the lows, we'd have a difficult time enjoying or even recognizing the highs.
Very true!
Wow hate to hear that non roller block band link bar lifters you have there.
Is what it is. I’ll get it fixed
Aaayyee yooooo what the hell happened bro?!?!
Went out for a rip after street car takeover and heard a noise. Parked it and just had a few min to look into it last night 😞
Well dammit was hoping it was just the lifter or push rod
That makes two of us….
Pull oil filter and cut it open to check for trash in it.
Definitely on the list. After I get everything taken apart I probably will.
Brooks THAT SUCKS! Sorry man!! Just think of the giant smokey burnout you'll be doing in the future!!
Soon I hope 🙏
Mine did the exact same thing, the “button” was laying on the valley wiped my cam also $1500 later it’s back together. This happened to $900 bullet lifters. The cause I wish I knew, maybe too much street/track racing
Man that just sucks…. Makes me sick to my stomach….
@@BMF_Garage I need to know the cause is my issue, my cam guy said he has never seen them break like that. I had the heads gone through while they were off and everything looked great he just did a valve seat job and and did a surface mill on them.
Holy crap. What a drag. I just put together an older 350 with a carb. After first startup, it started backfiring. Took off the right side valve cover to discover most of the rocker arm nuts were lose. 3 of the set screws were off and 1 rocker was almost off its post. 1 pushrod went inside the oil valley. My help says they took apart the chinese made roller lifters and cleaned them. So i redid all the preloads and started it again. Same thing. I think he lied about the cleaning of the lifters. That or they are sticking. What do you think. And did you fix your issue with the broken link?
Sounds like you should check the other side of lifters if you haven’t lol maybe the cam wasn’t set right and is out of time….
I ended up replacing the cam, all lifters, and rockers. But yeah it’s fixed
@@BMF_Garage this is my 1st attempt at assembling a performance engine. I got these Chinese roller lifters for cheap. When I tried to take them apart, you can't take them apart. The rivet holding the connecting bar is in the way. A machinist ordered a Melling Cam(MC22398), and they require $750 worth of SPECIAL lifters. Just because you bought a high dollar rifle doesnt mean your going to get the prize elk. Right. The only thing special about their lifters is the Christmas party that I'll fund. Im going to try the Chinese ones. IF, I can get them to work. 5 or 6 of them did not plunge until I put them in the press. I sunk those 5 or 6 about .100. Then they seemed to bottom out. Tonight I'm just going to spin the engine to observe the valve train. Make sure there's no kunfu happening. Then I'll start it with the covers off. Wish me luck man. Im gonna need it.
@@BMF_Garage this is my 1st attempt at assembling a performance engine. I got these Chinese roller lifters for cheap. When I tried to take them apart, you can't take them apart. The rivet holding the connecting bar is in the way. A machinist ordered a Melling Cam(MC22398), and they require $750 worth of SPECIAL lifters. Just because you bought a high dollar rifle doesnt mean your going to get the prize elk. Right. The only thing special about their lifters is the Christmas party that I'll fund. Im going to try the Chinese ones. IF, I can get them to work. 5 or 6 of them did not plunge until I put them in the press. I sunk those 5 or 6 about .100. Then they seemed to bottom out. Tonight I'm just going to spin the engine to observe the valve train. Make sure there's no kunfu happening. Then I'll start it with the covers off. Wish me luck man. Im gonna need it.
You’ve helped me out in the past, my injectors aren’t getting any signal from the ecu.. I replaced the pcm relay which smelled burnt and still nothing. Any suggestions?
Check for power at the injector. With the key on, there should be 12 volts on the colored wire that red or tan or some combination of those. The darker wire gets a ground pulsed from the ecu when you turn the key. If you have power, but the injectors don’t pulse, likely a bad circuit in the ecu.
@@BMF_Garage turns out I accidentally plugged the old one back in haha. She’s working now. Good luck with your fox!
@adanpatino4021 nice! Thanks 🤘🏻
I have seen a lot of your videos over the years and it seems you always have some type of issue with your engines for one reason or another. Maybe someone needs to mentor you, so with any luck you won't keep having anymore problems.
Man… can’t even tell you how shitty that comment is. How is it my fault that the link bar broke?
Even from this latest video you concluded that you may need longer push rods, even Improper valve spring pressure and or pushrod flex can cause this issue also. I just wonder if you even check the pattern on the valve tip to insure you had the right sweep pattern, if you did that might have given you a heads up. You may want to try using a dog bone for the lifters and it looks like there are bosses in the block that you can drill and tap for the spyder. May be more forgiving than the link bars.
If you’ve watched all my videos you’d have seen I checked all of that. Didn’t just slap it together and call it good. Checked pushrod length with my tool, checked travel of the rockers and clearances around springs. I made speculations initially in this video, but if you watched this video particularly to the end you would have heard my conclusion. Dog bone style lifters can only handle so much lift before they start chattering and create too much tension on the end of the spider and break, but I’m sure you knew that because you watched my video where I explained that when I switched from using that style.
You could use a lower lift cam with a higher ratio rocker like 1.7 or higher in place of the 1.6 rockers you're using if you believe dog bone style lifters can only handle so much lift before they start chattering.
It’s an option. Every part has its pros and cons. Dog bone style isn’t perfect and neither is the link bar style.