HOW TO:- Suzuki DRZ400 Stator Inspection and Loctite Checks. Step By Step Guide. A MUST WATCH
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2019
- The early model Suzuki DRZ400 engine where known for having the starter clutch bolts come loose and walk out, causing expensive damage to the bikes electrical stator. This video is a step by step guide on how to strip down and inspect, some handy hints and also adding Loctite to the fasteners for further peace of mind.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video. I just discovered this preventative maintenance for my DRZ
Great video, thank you for the step by step walkthrough- need to do this on my DRZ- it's a 2003 with 5,000 miles on it-- This will be a good afternoon project next time I change oil!
CT Gromer thanks, is not a bad job to do and gives a bit of peace of mind once done. let me know how you get on and if any other DRZ videos you would like to see!
Very comprehensive and good advice !!
Thanks Ed, was good to see at least my 2011 model had some Loctite on bolts rotating at 10,000RPM!
Good job. I have to do it on my bike! Kind regards from Spain!
Excellent! please let me know how it works out for you
Excellent video. My DRZ has been leaking oil at the little rubber grommet that houses the stator wires where they go through the case. I fixed it two years ago, but it still leaks. I think it's also leaking at the starter gear cover. I am installing a new stator from Electrosport, which is supposedly a higher output ,a new gasket and new o-ring sometime this weekend.
Excellent video. Subscribed. 👍
Thanks Bill, glad you found the video to be a good one 🙂
Love your videos mate! Very helpful. I'm not very mechanically confident and I don't think I would have been game to tackle this job without this video.
One thing I'd add is some people recommended to me that I clean out the bolt hole/female threads (not sure of the name) as best as you can too, so the loctite binds. I used brake cleaner and a tiny bottle brush used for metal straws and quite a bit of crap came out.
Thanks for that workshop tip Campbell! Glad you have enjoyed the videos, I have had a break from the channel for a bit but hope to be back into it soon!
@@WESTOZEXPLORING nice! I look forward to more of your content!
Great video, thank you! Where did you get the chain guard around the front sprocket? Looks effective and sturdy!
Good stuff mate
thanks. is interesting to see what makes it all tick
Complimenti davvero un gran bel video. Posso chiederti dove hai comprato il copri pignone ?
Something i did notice, when replacing the ignition cover, i would be making sure that the locating dowels dont fall into the engine.
Nice helpful vid tho, thnx
no worries Rob, good pick up. Dowels where securely located on mine but could be an easy miss
had i not seen one of them i wouldnt have known
Awesome..now for the clutch!
will certainly make a video guide when due, not sure actually how long to expect out of standard clutch life?
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Some say loctite fix for the clutch as well although I doubt its as critical...Ive not done it myself. Also check out Vibra tight V3 product...like loctite but better in my opinion.
you fellas have any advice about lubing he clutch cable? I've tried the standard process and it leaks from the adjusters way up in the cable near the lever
Thank you very much for the vídeo and info! Could you do for the other side as well? I heard something similar happens around the crankshaft?
I'll will look into that a bit more... Thanks!
@@WESTOZEXPLORING u rock!
Thank you for the very information video! I was hoping to send you a private message, but this is just as well. I have a 2009 DRZ 400sm. I just cracked a whole in the stator cover. The shifter lever punched a hole in the side when I dropped it like dim whit. I’ve managed to get it disassembled, but my question is do you think jb weld on both the inside and outside of the cover will suffice to close the hole?
Hi Benjamin! Sorry for the delayed response, JB weld and other similar products can certainly work, remember it is only crankcase pressure against it and a neat job will work. Most riders I have seen carry out as a temporary repair and usually replace once back in home. Could last the life of the bike though saying that!
Awesome video, thank you!
What about the famous loose cs nut fix, have you done that? I changed sprockets and chain on my new to me DRZ and found the cs nut to be loose.
Thanks very much for the positive feedback Johannes. I also looked into countershaft Loctite but decided to torque the sprocket nut and replace the lock washer each time now and ensure is folded over securely. That has been successful for me without the loctite method
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Thats good to hear. If one browses through the forums you can get the impression that its something that will fail sooner or later, no matter what. Good to hear that it has been holding up well for you!
Great video, thank you very much !!!! in 2 weeks I will change stactor of DRZ400s from 2004. I already changed one, but I did not know about it, the bike has 170 thousand km and now there is little light (I put two very powerful rigid lines 5 years ago) and I will change it. Regulator broke 5 years ago, battery inflated. I will also change the timing chain ... how do I change the chain guides?
Actually haven’t done timing chain guides myself but have seen them, shouldn’t be too difficult to complete at time of timing chain completion. Very impressed with the Kilometres on your bike
@@WESTOZEXPLORING czcams.com/video/bNrkdJ8-cx0/video.html
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Mx is big!
What size are the idler gear cover bolts? Thanks.
Thanks
Your Welcome, thanks Alex!
I'm looking to buy a Suzuki Drz 400 SM i did notice some kinda glue/? around the timing plug bolt. It has only 1600 miles and runs great, nothing leaking as it runs. Should i be concerned?
Hey bud, recently got back into off-road riding after 30 years on road bikes. Have drz400e 2018 model and changing sprockets and chains, noticed in front , slightly below the centre of the engine sprocket there is a single wire going into bike. Thought I had a broken or missing cover but noticed your bike is the same. What is that wire as the service manual doesn’t say sh*t about it. Love the vids and followed yours to service the chook chaser. Cheers Robbo
Thanks for the great feedback Robbo, plenty more action and workshop days to come!
That wire is just the neutral switch that when in neutral closes the circuit and brings the green light on the dash. It does look exposed there without any protection and the wire soldered to the switch. Mine hasn't worked for a long time, i should look into it! 🙂
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Hey thanks for the reply mate.
Im just about to finish mine... What’s the torque setting for the 6 Hex head stator bolts that go into the magnesium cover? It’s pretty easy to strip the magnesium, so surely it’s not 15 Nm like the rotor bolts?
I'll check the manual but I can't recall seeing them. I just used the medium strength threadlock and install by Allen Key firmly but not over tight
WESTOZ EXPLORING ... no worries, thanks. I couldn’t find a spec in the manual, so I’ll go by feel. The manual does give a non-specific recommendation by bolt diameter for whether it’s ordinary (unmarked)/marked with a 4, or a marked with a 7. Ordinary/4 is 6Nm for 6mm bolt, or if it’s stamped with a 7 it’s 10Nm. I’m guessing 6 Nm is enough for these.
@@ronanrogers4127 I'm assuming its too late, but for future viewers ill leave this comment.
I torqued my stator cover bolts to 9Nm referenced from the Clymer Manual. This worked fine for me.
I want to get stuff ready before i start taking it apart so what size bolts did you replace those Phillips head screws with?
I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know the size mate 👍
@VonZomB. 6mm diameter, 16mm thread length with flat and spring washer. Apply a dab of Grease or antiseize and good to go
Thank you very much
is it neccesary to replace the large gasket in this process? Also, did you use BLue Loctite on the 7 bolts holding the whole cover down?
It's a metal based gasket from memory, just thoroughly inspect for any nicks or damage. Have reused mine twice without any leaks. Loctite not required on the cover bolts, just tightened or torqued correctly. Haven't had any issues there
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Cheers mate, I may record the process. Super appreciate the info!
Actually he used Loctite 263 which is Red not blue. Red is permanent... will be removed only by heat. Blue is 243, medium strength....
Hi!! Great video!! One question...its only nesesary remove 8 bolts of cover?? I removed the 8 bolts of cover but no move....
May need to give a few light taps and wriggle back and forward. Can also use a screwdriver to pry up. Are sitting on dowels so will be some resistance to get off. Let me know how you go!
@@WESTOZEXPLORING thanks !! I've done what you tell me but I can't remove the cover. It seems to be fixed on the torque limiter part.
@@davidzarco8649 might be stuck on the seal of the starter shaft, try getting some CRC or lubricant in from the starter motor side and keep working it...
7.31 shows the o ring on the starter shaft
I believe that oring the problem. makes pressure. I'm going to try as you give me, thank you!
Hi there. Can you tell me what year is this bike? Thanks, great video.
Hi NYCMP1, is a 2011 DRZ400 Model
WESTOZ EXPLORING thank you very much 👍
When do you change the mechanical seal of the water pump? what is the symptom?
Should be external leakage from the tell tale of the pump, will either be coolant or engine oil. Amazing the bike has so many KMs so wouldn't hurt to change out as prevention.
Is the loctite fix necessary on the 2019 model
Hi Mike, from what I have seen the issue was sorted by Suzuki in the factory in late 00's, however for the small cost of the mod it does give peace of mind. Mine is an 11 and was all ok when completed. I have just stripped an 04 and this one has had a previous failure with evidence of flywheel damage and stator replacement
awesome warning how the bushing goes missing at the end of the video
oh btw don't lose the bushing when you first removed the cover. lesson to myself, do more research in forums and manual before videos.
You didn’t mention the torque settings for the stator cover bolts that you applied the loctite 243 to...
Hi Alex, for the bolts that hold the actual cover on, go 9nm but I haven't worried about Loctite on the outer cover bolts.
WESTOZ EXPLORING not talk about the bolts that hold the cover on... I’m talking about the bolts you put 243 on...... you never said what they’re torqued to.
Sorry for the reply Alex, had to look into it. I didnt torque these ones on installation and cant remember the grade, however from the manual if grade 7 and 5mm diameter the torque will be 4.5nm.
Hey. Thanks for the vid. Is there a way to contact you? I need your brains.
If can find Perth Adventure Riders and join the group will find me through there 😁
Perth Adventure Riders viola Facebook
I also just had the motor rebuilt a week ago, so this one hurts 🙁
Ah damn, did these fail for you?
You’re missing a washer that goes on the starter gear on the actual motor it sits on the back of the case and the gear
Yes missed covering it as was stuck to the gear, but correct shim either side
Oil leaks should be fixed asap. Even little ones. You dont want that small oil leak to become a big one while you decide to corner hard.
No Josh that will certainly end in disaster!!