The last time I watched your video was nearly a year ago when my DRZ stopped charging and I had to push start it in the middle of a small town in Central WA. That was my last ride of the year, so I procrastinated troubleshooting the issue. In Feb 2023, I tested the stator, it checked good. I can't remember if I checked the regulator/rectifier output or not. I broke my wrist riding my KTM in May and haven't ridden since then. I finally rode my DRZ yesterday. It still won't charge. I need to do more diagnoses on the problem once I get home from the camping/riding trip I'm on. I'm RV camping and doing day rides. I'm glad I was thinking ahead and brought my 4.5 amp Battery Tender charger! I also need to do the free power mod!
Clear, concise, good explanations/rationale for your decisions, and good lighting/visibility of the salient parts of the project. Well done, and Thank You!
In my 5 years of owning my drz, i’ve had my stator failed once, and my rectifier just failed last week. Did the free power mod previously but when i installed the new rectifier, i didn’t have the proper equipment for the job so i connected it as stock. Now i’m about to do the free power mod again as i’m about to install a 40w floodlights, and to counter the higher wattage consumption from the floodlights, i’m changing my front headlight to a 12w LED instead of my current 55w halogen. Hopefully my electrical systems will be fine.
I think this will be my next project on my 2001 DRZ400S. I went on a trip this past weekend and I got side tracked after coming back from a ride and left the ignition key on. Killed the battery, jump started it, ran fine for a couple of rides then would randomly stall and wouldn't start after a few tries then would randomly start up again. Charged the battery, reinstalled it and still had the same issues of it not starting and starting randomly. Awesome video! 👌
Thanks for the comment and the view! Yeah the electrical system leaves a little bit to be desired in stock format. Definitely worth the modification, especially cause it's so low cost. Safe riding!
@@JDR0357 I cut the wire that actuates the clutch when you start it and I also cut the wire that works as a safety mechanism for the kick stand. Covered the tips nice a tight and wrapped them in heat shrink, its been running solid since then. Just remember to always leave it in neutral or hold in the clutch when starting.
Just cut them or cut, connected them together and heat shrinked? My bike has started to stall at idle for no reason after the free power mod. Runs perfect until it stalls @@rafaeloliva1776
Thanks for the video. I'll be doing this on my 2019. I have heated grips and 2 extra sets of lights. I've been lucky so far with 5,200 miles but I know its a common issue where the stator goes bad on these.
Generally, the newer models are having as many issues with the stator. Still, it's not a bad idea to check those stator bolts for loctite. Thanks for the view!
Excellent video. I’ve had my DRZ since 2006. I’ve heard about the free power mod but never followed through with reading how to accomplish it. Don’t waste the money on an MCCT. I had one. It’s a finicky process to adjust it. I apparently never adjusted mine tight enough so my cam chain wore out. It didn’t fail though. When I replaced the cam chain, I switched back to a later model ACCT.
In stock configuration the stator puts out 14 to 14.5 volts. Anything less than 13.5 won't charge the battery. I'm no electrical engineer so don't quote me on that, I pulled that data from my Clymers manual. Good luck and thanks for the view!
Hey! Thanks for the view and the comment. It's not that the harness is "bad" per se. It's more "inefficient" than anything. This mod bypasses a connector that piggy backs a circuit on the wiring loom. It removes a lot of excess wiring in the circuit..less wiring=less resistance=more volts. I'm not an electrician tho, but this mod has caused no issues since posting this vid. Hope this helps! Safe riding!
So its been a while since i first saw this vid, did you ever measure your gains? Im going to do this mod this weekend on my bike so i can add a few things. Any idea what the max wattage is that the bike puts out?
When I referenced the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual it indicates that the plug connects to a circuit that piggybacks the wiring loom back to the battery. In stock configuration, this causes current to be lost as it travels excess wiring (internal resistance).
Hey, thanks for the view. That connection goes to the battery to charge it, just in a very inefficient way. Been running without issue since the mod. Good luck
Make a video on how you can put the helmet lock. O. A drz and how it works I have no idea and I can't find a video on CZcams thanks I appreciated ... just subscribed
@@narcanmedic3841 Thank You.. I also bought a Brake Pedal Switch that goes behind the brake pedal somewhere to make the rear brake light go on and I can't find a video on that neither...if you have this stuff please help me out I have no idea how it goes on. I don't know if I need a bracket or something.
@@narcanmedic3841 My drz400 does not have the sensor behind the rear foot pedal so the light go on everytime I press the brake and I can't pass inspection without that brake sensor. Plus my brake pedal is after market someone has told me that I need to buy a rear foot pedal that has an attachment to it to connect the sensor but I just wish to see one to see how it works or how is done
It's called the rear brake pedal switch...that's behind the foot pedal somewhere attached by the frame somewhere is basically something that does what the kick stand does for safety when is down.
Yes I removed those. Easy 3-5lbs of weight saving. It's easy to do and it's pretty intuitive. You'll need to buy a vacuum cap to cover the carburetor vacuum port that feeds the charcoal canister.
I put a 15A in as I am using 16g wiring. So far, so good. Beside the regulator rectifier is designed to divert excess current into heat, so use the right size fuse based on the wire gauge you use to make your jumper lead.
I used a 15A, but it will be dependent on what size wire you use. I would recommend 18AWG automotive or larger. I'm no electrician, but I ran a 14g with a 15a fuse
It's not necessarily about charging the battery faster as it is about providing a more efficient way to charge the battery. Stock wiring configuration was so inefficient that the battery would still drain even at higher rpms. This mod makes better use of the power generated by the stator to reliably charge the battery while operating the bike within the normal RPM range
Have you studied the areas of linguistics as it pertains to phonology, syntax and pragmatics? Interesting studies about why individuals may use certain idioms based on where they were raised. I hope the video helped with your DRZ mod. Thanks for the view!
@@narcanmedic3841 haha...nice try...I have lived EVERYWHERE and I actually can not remember why I commented on your use of the word 'gals' but it sounded weird...don't get your feelings hurt.
The last time I watched your video was nearly a year ago when my DRZ stopped charging and I had to push start it in the middle of a small town in Central WA. That was my last ride of the year, so I procrastinated troubleshooting the issue.
In Feb 2023, I tested the stator, it checked good. I can't remember if I checked the regulator/rectifier output or not. I broke my wrist riding my KTM in May and haven't ridden since then. I finally rode my DRZ yesterday. It still won't charge.
I need to do more diagnoses on the problem once I get home from the camping/riding trip I'm on. I'm RV camping and doing day rides. I'm glad I was thinking ahead and brought my 4.5 amp Battery Tender charger! I also need to do the free power mod!
Clear, concise, good explanations/rationale for your decisions, and good lighting/visibility of the salient parts of the project. Well done, and Thank You!
Thanks for the comment and stopping by!
I've never owned a Suzuki, but yet hear I am watching.
Getcha one. You won't be disappointed 👍
Dude excellent job. Going to use this as my guide to pull this off. Thanks!
Glad to be a help! Thanks for stopping by!
In my 5 years of owning my drz, i’ve had my stator failed once, and my rectifier just failed last week. Did the free power mod previously but when i installed the new rectifier, i didn’t have the proper equipment for the job so i connected it as stock. Now i’m about to do the free power mod again as i’m about to install a 40w floodlights, and to counter the higher wattage consumption from the floodlights, i’m changing my front headlight to a 12w LED instead of my current 55w halogen. Hopefully my electrical systems will be fine.
I think this will be my next project on my 2001 DRZ400S. I went on a trip this past weekend and I got side tracked after coming back from a ride and left the ignition key on. Killed the battery, jump started it, ran fine for a couple of rides then would randomly stall and wouldn't start after a few tries then would randomly start up again. Charged the battery, reinstalled it and still had the same issues of it not starting and starting randomly. Awesome video! 👌
Thanks for the comment and the view! Yeah the electrical system leaves a little bit to be desired in stock format. Definitely worth the modification, especially cause it's so low cost. Safe riding!
I have the same issue with my 02 drz400 how did you solve the problem?
@@JDR0357 I cut the wire that actuates the clutch when you start it and I also cut the wire that works as a safety mechanism for the kick stand. Covered the tips nice a tight and wrapped them in heat shrink, its been running solid since then. Just remember to always leave it in neutral or hold in the clutch when starting.
Just cut them or cut, connected them together and heat shrinked? My bike has started to stall at idle for no reason after the free power mod. Runs perfect until it stalls @@rafaeloliva1776
Thanks for the video. I'll be doing this on my 2019. I have heated grips and 2 extra sets of lights. I've been lucky so far with 5,200 miles but I know its a common issue where the stator goes bad on these.
Generally, the newer models are having as many issues with the stator. Still, it's not a bad idea to check those stator bolts for loctite. Thanks for the view!
Wow! Great video! Very clear ! Thank you!
Thanks for the comment and the view! Be safe!
Clean wiring mods. Please do the 3x3 with a JD kit rejet. I waited forever to perform that and it was definitely a plus to performance.
I'm planning on that next after I can save up for a full exhaust. Maybe I'll upload that project too. Thanks for the comment!
What size fuse do you use?
I used a 10 amp and it blew when my battery was low.
Excellent video. I’ve had my DRZ since 2006. I’ve heard about the free power mod but never followed through with reading how to accomplish it.
Don’t waste the money on an MCCT. I had one. It’s a finicky process to adjust it. I apparently never adjusted mine tight enough so my cam chain wore out. It didn’t fail though. When I replaced the cam chain, I switched back to a later model ACCT.
Great advice! I've held off on the MCT as everything looked great when I did the valve clearance inspection. Thanks for the comment and the view!!
If you ride in the dirt, you might consider oiling your filter.
subscribed
What is the voltage at idling out of stator's red and black?
Good job on the video. How about removing turn signals and swapping headlight for a round LED? Would that reduce the electrical load?
Those additional mods wold definitely help! I did this video to show the mod with little cost burden. Thanks for the comment!
So what stays disconnected? What does it do? Or not do since it's now disconnected?
Do you happen to know how much available wattage is there on the drz before or after you do this? I wanna run my heated moto jacket.
In stock configuration the stator puts out 14 to 14.5 volts. Anything less than 13.5 won't charge the battery. I'm no electrical engineer so don't quote me on that, I pulled that data from my Clymers manual. Good luck and thanks for the view!
Will it improve spark and starter performance please?
Great vid! So you are just bypassing the stock connector? Or is that part of the harness bad on all the bikes? Thanks for the info🍻
Hey! Thanks for the view and the comment. It's not that the harness is "bad" per se. It's more "inefficient" than anything. This mod bypasses a connector that piggy backs a circuit on the wiring loom. It removes a lot of excess wiring in the circuit..less wiring=less resistance=more volts. I'm not an electrician tho, but this mod has caused no issues since posting this vid. Hope this helps! Safe riding!
So its been a while since i first saw this vid, did you ever measure your gains? Im going to do this mod this weekend on my bike so i can add a few things. Any idea what the max wattage is that the bike puts out?
what is the black plug with the black and red wire originaly used for? What does it do if nothing is connected to it after the mod?
When I referenced the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual it indicates that the plug connects to a circuit that piggybacks the wiring loom back to the battery. In stock configuration, this causes current to be lost as it travels excess wiring (internal resistance).
if you do this mod, would it make it draw power even when the key is in the off position?
Nope, circuit is still broken with the ignition off. Thanks for the view and the comment
With the kick stand switch did you also twist the wires together and heat shrink?
Sorry for the late response, but yes. I soldered the wires then heat shrinked them
keep the automatic chain tensioner. it works just fine
Been a year since you've left this comment, and I can confirm it does in fact work fine. Thanks for the comment.
What are you cutting off doing the mod? Where does that connector go?
Hey, thanks for the view. That connection goes to the battery to charge it, just in a very inefficient way. Been running without issue since the mod. Good luck
Make a video on how you can put the helmet lock. O. A drz and how it works I have no idea and I can't find a video on CZcams thanks I appreciated ... just subscribed
Not a bade idea! I'll work on that!
@@narcanmedic3841 Thank You.. I also bought a Brake Pedal Switch that goes behind the brake pedal somewhere to make the rear brake light go on and I can't find a video on that neither...if you have this stuff please help me out I have no idea how it goes on. I don't know if I need a bracket or something.
@@VenganzaCayey are you trying to street legal the DRZ400E? The DRZ400S stock comes with a brake light illuminator on both the front and rear brakes.
@@narcanmedic3841 My drz400 does not have the sensor behind the rear foot pedal so the light go on everytime I press the brake and I can't pass inspection without that brake sensor. Plus my brake pedal is after market someone has told me that I need to buy a rear foot pedal that has an attachment to it to connect the sensor but I just wish to see one to see how it works or how is done
It's called the rear brake pedal switch...that's behind the foot pedal somewhere attached by the frame somewhere is basically something that does what the kick stand does for safety when is down.
Looks like you do not have the EVAP system on yours. Removed? Any details you can share on that would be appreciated. Thanks!
Yes I removed those. Easy 3-5lbs of weight saving. It's easy to do and it's pretty intuitive. You'll need to buy a vacuum cap to cover the carburetor vacuum port that feeds the charcoal canister.
Whats the amp rating on the fuse?
I put a 15A in as I am using 16g wiring. So far, so good. Beside the regulator rectifier is designed to divert excess current into heat, so use the right size fuse based on the wire gauge you use to make your jumper lead.
Is there any way that anyone knows to adjust the air fuel cuz it’s capped off for me.
gotta drill the plug, there is a slotted fuel screw underneath
what amp fuse should be used?
I used a 15A, but it will be dependent on what size wire you use. I would recommend 18AWG automotive or larger. I'm no electrician, but I ran a 14g with a 15a fuse
So does this charge the battery faster
It's not necessarily about charging the battery faster as it is about providing a more efficient way to charge the battery. Stock wiring configuration was so inefficient that the battery would still drain even at higher rpms. This mod makes better use of the power generated by the stator to reliably charge the battery while operating the bike within the normal RPM range
Could you pop round to my house and do this on mine please?
what is that annoying noise in the background? sounds like an animal
And gals? 🙄
Have you studied the areas of linguistics as it pertains to phonology, syntax and pragmatics? Interesting studies about why individuals may use certain idioms based on where they were raised. I hope the video helped with your DRZ mod. Thanks for the view!
@@narcanmedic3841 haha...nice try...I have lived EVERYWHERE and I actually can not remember why I commented on your use of the word 'gals' but it sounded weird...don't get your feelings hurt.
@@GM-he3um I'm glad to hear it! Thanks for the clarification! Be safe