I used to make rtv moulds one half at a time with a frame made of lego and plasticine - putting the plasticine as a base with the model embedded in it, casting the top half then once cured flipping it over, cleaning it, adding release agent and them casting the second half. Keys can be moulded in the first half standing out or pushed in and there's a nice tight seal. Takes more time and I did move over to balsa as the lego can easily leak.
I'd love to see more videos on making vulcanized rubber molds. Specifically cutting them open. I have several designs that require vertical cuts in addition to the main horizontal cut. It would also be great to see a video of just cutting the keys in the corners. I don't know if you are willing to experiment, but I have been using Nicem to make my molds and wonder how it compares to Castaldo. Also, some more videos on shooting wax would be nice. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Never heard of that brand before. Is it this stuff? www.nicem.it/en/nicem-gomme-siliconiche/siliconi-per-gioielleria/ We will definitely being doing more follow up videos. The really specific stuff we may end up turning into video classes.
Nice channel and very good info! Castaldo has some silicone that will only require 70-80 degrees celsius and it works with 3d prints, provided you print with a grey resin (I use Anycubic) You could also use Alex Silicone Rubber (Fluorescent green) or CBS (the bright orange one), I believe they are made in Turkey. It behaves like clay, and you use every single bit of it. I can't wait to see how the Bluecast X One actually casts. Cheers!
I have used both and I know that both are good. However, you can add a personal touch to injection wax pieces. IE say you were making a Heart shaped item. And you wanted to engrave on the wax before casting. You can do that with no problem and if you mess up you just add it back to the wax, no loss.
When choosing a RTV / silicone to make a liquid mold of a 3d resin print one of the challenges is CI, Cure Inhibition. In other words, your mold material will NEVER cure. Platinum silicones usually have more CI issues than Tin based silicones. Most of the time, but not always, Platinum based silicones are a 1:1 mix ratio and tin based 10:1 or similar not equal measure. Curing, baking, coating your 3D resin print can help prevent CI. Some resins work better than others with CI. Letting a resin gas-off for a period of time also seems to help with CI.
Se corto micomentario,va nuevamente los moldes de huleconvencional tienen una propiedad. Un molde vulcanizado sí se ahoga en petroleo durante 24 horas,el molde se hincha asta unos 500 por ciento,con un colado de parafina se obtiene una copia pero mucho mas grande...proceso "jonapru" ,es libre cualquiera lo puede hacer. Felicidades
Thanks for this video! I've been trying to learn more about the use cases and practicality of molding in terms of jewelry in the leadup to the launch of my online store. I find myself wondering about the cost associated with sizing molds for ring designs. This seems like it's perfect for pendants, earrings, bracelets etc. but that it would be very costly to make rings via the molding process.
It will depend on the complexity. Most ring orders we have these days we do with 3d printing as it is easier to size up or down. With molding you would need to have three or four molds per ring style and then edit the waxes, or just have a mold for every size. Alternatively cast blank ring shanks and then the design separately and solder together.
@@ClearMindJewellery interesting solutions. Thanks for taking the time to go over that! Sounds like 3d printing would be the way to go at scale with my style in mind
A lot of them, lol. It all depends on what designs you want to cast as some resins have expansion issues and some are harder to print then others but cast amazingly. Would recommend checking out our ranked list here: clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
We have this video which is a little old but shows the process of making a vulcanized mold: czcams.com/video/-JD0xUseP3w/video.html In that video its a "no cut" method so if you want to learn the basics of mold cutting we have a video on that for our members czcams.com/video/_PftIfstGkA/video.html Although there is some mold cutting in this video czcams.com/video/I9iB6Ip6m6Y/video.html If you want RTV molding techniques we have 2 videos on that as well, you can find them in our casting playlist.
Have you tried the RTV-mould resin from PowerResins yet? I had a Daylight resin from Photocentric specifically for RTV silicone moulds and there has not been any stickiness. However, they don't seem to do any UV resins for moulding prints. I have only seen the PowerResins RTV resin being advertised for that purpose. Spraying the print with a lacquer usually reduces the finer details like embossed writing. When you do moulds of your prints which resin do you use or do you go straight for vulcanized rubber now? I still struggle with the quality of my X-One direct casts. Not as perfect as I'd like. So I think there is some space still for moulding 3D-prints.
We have not tried the Power Resins RTV specific material. We have tried Ameralabs, Mack4D Tiko-T, and a discontinued Prusa resin. We've done a few videos that you can search through in regards to printing the item to be molded, or printing the mold itself. It's interesting that you're struggling with the XOne as that resin is the most "wax like" we have ever tried out of 22+ plus castable resins.
@@ClearMindJewellery I will do a test with the Power Resins RTV hopefully this week as I also didn't find a list or manufacturer specifically advertising the compatibility with RTV. Apart from some discontinued the aforementioned daylight resin from Photocentric, it seems to be trial and error. So Ameralabs, Mack4D Tiko-T work for Platinum cured RTV silicones, as I understood it, yes?
@@ClearMindJewellery Regarding the castable resins. Of course X-One is the best I've had so far, but I think the thick supports needed are a pain, if there is lots of detail. Also the softness makes it very delicate to work with. I'm going to let them compete next week Bluecast X-One vs PowerResins DARK. I guess Bluecast X-One behaves more like PowerResins WAX?
Is cutting rtv easier than vulcanized rubber? I’ve started by cutting the OG castaldo but i have shed so much blood i’m giving up 😂 thinking of trying out the new castaldo liquasil
I used to make rtv moulds one half at a time with a frame made of lego and plasticine - putting the plasticine as a base with the model embedded in it, casting the top half then once cured flipping it over, cleaning it, adding release agent and them casting the second half. Keys can be moulded in the first half standing out or pushed in and there's a nice tight seal. Takes more time and I did move over to balsa as the lego can easily leak.
I'd love to see more videos on making vulcanized rubber molds. Specifically cutting them open. I have several designs that require vertical cuts in addition to the main horizontal cut. It would also be great to see a video of just cutting the keys in the corners. I don't know if you are willing to experiment, but I have been using Nicem to make my molds and wonder how it compares to Castaldo. Also, some more videos on shooting wax would be nice. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Never heard of that brand before. Is it this stuff? www.nicem.it/en/nicem-gomme-siliconiche/siliconi-per-gioielleria/
We will definitely being doing more follow up videos. The really specific stuff we may end up turning into video classes.
@@ClearMindJewellery Yes. I have the blue variety, but like Castaldo, they have different varieties.
Very informative, thank you guys as always! With your quality you are bound to have a large following 🙂
Thanks so much!
Make sure you share with a friend to help keep up the momentum. 👍
Personally I would find a lot of value in videos that show tips like how you cut your molds.
Nice channel and very good info!
Castaldo has some silicone that will only require 70-80 degrees celsius and it works with 3d prints, provided you print with a grey resin (I use Anycubic)
You could also use Alex Silicone Rubber (Fluorescent green) or CBS (the bright orange one), I believe they are made in Turkey. It behaves like clay, and you use every single bit of it.
I can't wait to see how the Bluecast X One actually casts.
Cheers!
Fantastic video and very educating. Helps me a lot. Thanks.
I have used both and I know that both are good. However, you can add a personal touch to injection wax pieces. IE say you were making a Heart shaped item. And you wanted to engrave on the wax before casting. You can do that with no problem and if you mess up you just add it back to the wax, no loss.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
9:15 I wonder if that material is hygroscopic and is why it is getting spongey. Perhaps a low temp baking out would restore the properties
the advantage of vulcanized rubber is mostly time since you don't need to wait overnight for it to cure
When choosing a RTV / silicone to make a liquid mold of a 3d resin print one of the challenges is CI, Cure Inhibition. In other words, your mold material will NEVER cure. Platinum silicones usually have more CI issues than Tin based silicones. Most of the time, but not always, Platinum based silicones are a 1:1 mix ratio and tin based 10:1 or similar not equal measure. Curing, baking, coating your 3D resin print can help prevent CI. Some resins work better than others with CI. Letting a resin gas-off for a period of time also seems to help with CI.
Have you tried the siraya tech resins for rtv mold? Does it have problems with CI?
Se corto micomentario,va nuevamente los moldes de huleconvencional tienen una propiedad.
Un molde vulcanizado sí se ahoga en petroleo durante 24 horas,el molde se hincha asta unos 500 por ciento,con un colado de parafina se obtiene una copia pero mucho mas grande...proceso "jonapru" ,es libre cualquiera lo puede hacer.
Felicidades
Thanks for this video! I've been trying to learn more about the use cases and practicality of molding in terms of jewelry in the leadup to the launch of my online store.
I find myself wondering about the cost associated with sizing molds for ring designs. This seems like it's perfect for pendants, earrings, bracelets etc. but that it would be very costly to make rings via the molding process.
It will depend on the complexity. Most ring orders we have these days we do with 3d printing as it is easier to size up or down.
With molding you would need to have three or four molds per ring style and then edit the waxes, or just have a mold for every size.
Alternatively cast blank ring shanks and then the design separately and solder together.
@@ClearMindJewellery interesting solutions.
Thanks for taking the time to go over that!
Sounds like 3d printing would be the way to go at scale with my style in mind
Hi where did you get the rtv mold housing ? 😊
Which resins print & cast well? I’m hoping it’s for the Prusa SL1S because I’m about to buy it, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
A lot of them, lol. It all depends on what designs you want to cast as some resins have expansion issues and some are harder to print then others but cast amazingly. Would recommend checking out our ranked list here: clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
I'm wanting to make mold to cast a sterling silver ring. Do you have a video that you can suggest that shows the steps to do this?
We have this video which is a little old but shows the process of making a vulcanized mold: czcams.com/video/-JD0xUseP3w/video.html
In that video its a "no cut" method so if you want to learn the basics of mold cutting we have a video on that for our members czcams.com/video/_PftIfstGkA/video.html
Although there is some mold cutting in this video czcams.com/video/I9iB6Ip6m6Y/video.html
If you want RTV molding techniques we have 2 videos on that as well, you can find them in our casting playlist.
Have you tried the RTV-mould resin from PowerResins yet? I had a Daylight resin from Photocentric specifically for RTV silicone moulds and there has not been any stickiness. However, they don't seem to do any UV resins for moulding prints. I have only seen the PowerResins RTV resin being advertised for that purpose. Spraying the print with a lacquer usually reduces the finer details like embossed writing. When you do moulds of your prints which resin do you use or do you go straight for vulcanized rubber now? I still struggle with the quality of my X-One direct casts. Not as perfect as I'd like. So I think there is some space still for moulding 3D-prints.
We have not tried the Power Resins RTV specific material.
We have tried Ameralabs, Mack4D Tiko-T, and a discontinued Prusa resin. We've done a few videos that you can search through in regards to printing the item to be molded, or printing the mold itself.
It's interesting that you're struggling with the XOne as that resin is the most "wax like" we have ever tried out of 22+ plus castable resins.
@@ClearMindJewellery I will do a test with the Power Resins RTV hopefully this week as I also didn't find a list or manufacturer specifically advertising the compatibility with RTV. Apart from some discontinued the aforementioned daylight resin from Photocentric, it seems to be trial and error. So Ameralabs, Mack4D Tiko-T work for Platinum cured RTV silicones, as I understood it, yes?
@@ClearMindJewellery Regarding the castable resins. Of course X-One is the best I've had so far, but I think the thick supports needed are a pain, if there is lots of detail. Also the softness makes it very delicate to work with. I'm going to let them compete next week Bluecast X-One vs PowerResins DARK. I guess Bluecast X-One behaves more like PowerResins WAX?
Is cutting rtv easier than vulcanized rubber? I’ve started by cutting the OG castaldo but i have shed so much blood i’m giving up 😂 thinking of trying out the new castaldo liquasil
It’s a lot softer so it’s a butter vs bread comparison, assuming your blade is sharp. But it also means if you’re not careful slipping is easier.
Products that have become ready-to-use molds are there for sale?
Hey l am purchase rubber mold separater cream
Lo podria traducir al español latino.gracias