At 9 minutes into this video I was screaming sign the title, leave it on the side of the road with a key in the switch. No Ford is worth all this work, lol. I watched it until the end now I am headed to Tush's to slam some beer and ease the pain. You are a patient man, Elin.
usually you can put 2 longer bolts in the pump cover on opposite sides. when you alternately tighten them ,they will bottom out and slowly push the pump cover off
nice work Elin. if you have plenty of time and space anything is possible. Back in the 70's and 80's a poor lad had to work on his car at night and weekends to keep it running in all weathers.
I love this guy. So authentic and down to earth. alot of the comments he makes as hes working are almost the exact same im thinking as im watching. I find myself as i watch this. your a genuine mans man just getting shit done with what you got available. i was rooting for you the second that pump was exposed. you have much more patience then i though. i wont have a choice when my daily is torn apart outside and i have work monday.
You’re officially off your rocker! The exact polar opposite of me, you know, Mr Stability. Or maybe it’s the other way around. Automatic transmission = Pandora’s box
Great video...you're a trouper!! I would have got a larger, 10 lb hammer for the slide hammer...that's what I needed when I removed the rear hub bearing in my '05 Escape. The smaller one wouldn't have done the trick. The extra 5 lbs makes a big difference. I also may have drilled out the stripped bolt hole and gone one size bigger.
@Massimo Stecchi i used a grinder with cutting wheel. Its about 4 layers i had to bend some of the pieces to break off. Its not much of the frame you are cutting off but it worked.
@Massimo Stecchi Use vise grip pliers grab on to pieces of metal and fold until they break off the parts that you wont be able to reach to cut with grinder. Good luck.
Thank you for showing the full removal attempts with the slide hammer. I’m at that stage myself and looking to buy a slide hammer for this. Unfortunately my pump is much worse and actually has holes in it from rust, hence why I’m taking it off. I may do the 2-4 band while I’m there anyways.
Instead of using a hydraulic floor jack you should use an "Engine Support Bar". And you chain the engine to the bar and then remove all 4 of the subframe (aka engine cradle) bolts. Then you can lower the entire engine, trans and cradle. Which will give you much more room and better access to the transmission cover.
I might need to do this. Yesterday my escape just start reving while i was driving, basically like the clutch is slipping. I kept having to pull over and hope the trans would engage. When it finally did then it would driver and give out again. Does this sound like the same problem?
My experience was not so great. My band was not broken, but i replaced it anyway. My engine sputtered and died twice. Now will not crank. I hope I didn’t seize my transaxle. But I think I messed it up bad. I hope part 2 of this video is a successful repair.
Hello I'm having the same problem i bought the band, but I'm having doubts and thinking to leave it as is because I've been driving the vehicle for around 30k miles and I'm afraid this won't work in my case. I'm really looking for all the help i can use if you have any tips or advice please let me know.
I'm going to attempt the same repair this weekend, but was hoping you could answer a question for me. I understand 100% what needs to be done but are there other wires/hoses I must disconnect before lowering the engine? Thanks in advance
Dj Flex I am balls deep in this same repair. I’m curious how you made out? I’m waiting until I have the new band from Ford before I pop the pump off. Getting replaced regardless of its condition. For the cost of the part, it’s worth doing. A lot of work involved so far.
no engine wires need to be disconnected besides battery. I did this job twice so far. First time on 2005 Escape was unsuccessful I did not hold screw driver in firmly and the "guts" fell out, second time on 2008 Escape was successful Used a long pointed pry bard instead on screw driver. Takes about 2 hours and I got no mechanic experience. Instead of using a slide hammer I used 2 long hook bolts from homedepot and pulled by hand while leaving 2-3 screws in place.
@@warriorsinternational1826 Rather than going through all that with the engine cradle. Wouldn't it be easier to just cut an inch out of that fender skirt ? Not for a customer of course but for my personal vehicle.
The inside body fell out and I put it back in but seems like something is misalligned. my trans pump shaft in centerspun out and twisted and broke after I reassembled and restart now dead in water. I did not hold it in properly with screwdriver and inside fell out. Any ideas how to relign without removing entire transmission?
G Scope yes, that happened to me too and my shaft got twisted as well. What happened was the drum was not all the way in, the pump got compressed really hard with the bolts and couldn’t spin and that is why the shaft got twisted and snapped. I lost all my video footage about it though. Anyway. you can fix that on the car. First of all when buying the be shaft be careful with the length. There are two different lengths, so make sure you measure the one that snapped and have in mind that now that it is twisted it became a little shorter. Then you have to play a lot with the drum while putting it back. Jiggle it left and right, up and down until it is all the way in. When it is in it is pretty stable and stays centred. It has 2 points where you think it is in, but it actually needs to go further. What I did was I measured ho far the pump sticks out of the flange where the big o-ring goes and then i made sure that this distance is matching the distance from the flange on the body to the drum. I hope you understand what I mean. You will find that the pump goes in very easy when the drum is all the way in. If you need to force it with the bolts then your drum is still not in the right place. I hope that helps. Good luck
Doing this job now, but because the cover rusted a hole through it and it pissed out real bad, jb weld just would not hold to patch, no decent steel left. Any suggestions for re aligning pump on new cover?? Btw great video, might save this 08 from the wreckers.
This is pure determination well done I have to do mine but I have no Mechanical Skill at all, this guy taught me a lot, anyone have any more links that show you how to remove the tranny pump
i did that and it was the biggest disasters ever. the pump was so rotted i pulled the center of the pump out of the trans .. it literally snapped lol. i said f it and just replaced the trans.
Hi Ben, thanks for checking. Yes, I am fine. Just things were keeping me away from my projects for a while. I am working on a new video right now so hopefully tonight I will be able to finish and post it. Thanks :)
Instead of all the hard work I would have removed the 3 bolts/nuts on top of the strut and then removed the lower ball joint bolt and once the bolt is remove bed and driveshaft removed from the steering knuckle you remove the entire upper left front suspension system leaving only the lower control arm.
At 9 minutes into this video I was screaming sign the title, leave it on the side of the road with a key in the switch. No Ford is worth all this work, lol. I watched it until the end now I am headed to Tush's to slam some beer and ease the pain. You are a patient man, Elin.
usually you can put 2 longer bolts in the pump cover on opposite sides. when you alternately tighten them ,they will bottom out and slowly push the pump cover off
nice work Elin. if you have plenty of time and space anything is possible. Back in the 70's and 80's a poor lad had to work on his car at night and weekends to keep it running in all weathers.
I love this guy. So authentic and down to earth. alot of the comments he makes as hes working are almost the exact same im thinking as im watching. I find myself as i watch this. your a genuine mans man just getting shit done with what you got available. i was rooting for you the second that pump was exposed. you have much more patience then i though. i wont have a choice when my daily is torn apart outside and i have work monday.
If that were my vehicle I would cut out that fender well instead of dropping the tranny and doing all that extra work.
You’re officially off your rocker! The exact polar opposite of me, you know, Mr Stability. Or maybe it’s the other way around. Automatic transmission = Pandora’s box
Still waiting for Part 2 of the 2-4 replacement !
holy shit man... good job sticking with that. i have an '01 that i need to fix. I hope mine comes off easier than that
Ugh. Any time I have to repair a daily driver it reminds me that cutting/welding/grinding/body work...is actually fun!
Wow, that’s a lot of work. Nice job getting that pump off. I was betting something else was holding it on. I lost.
Love the video! Your sense of humor is on point as well 👌 hahaha keep em coming!!
The power of salt...
Love the Sears floor jack-I have one the same color
Classic
Thank you, Yakov. This video is exactly what i needed. Much appreciated:) Also, have a Happy and prosperous New Year!
Great video...you're a trouper!! I would have got a larger, 10 lb hammer for the slide hammer...that's what I needed when I removed the rear hub bearing in my '05 Escape. The smaller one wouldn't have done the trick. The extra 5 lbs makes a big difference. I also may have drilled out the stripped bolt hole and gone one size bigger.
Good job buddy it looked like a pain in the ass , way to endeavor to persevere now I am going to try and do the same
Wow, that pump did not want to let go!
I cut a small piece of the body just in front of the transmission then bent it out of the way to get the pump off and replace the 2 4 band
@Massimo Stecchi i used a grinder with cutting wheel. Its about 4 layers i had to bend some of the pieces to break off. Its not much of the frame you are cutting off but it worked.
Before you cut just measure it by eye the last layer there will be half a layer with a line you cut right underneath it but right on the line.
@Massimo Stecchi Use vise grip pliers grab on to pieces of metal and fold until they break off the parts that you wont be able to reach to cut with grinder. Good luck.
@Massimo Stecchi ill send u a pic of what i did
Thank you for showing the full removal attempts with the slide hammer. I’m at that stage myself and looking to buy a slide hammer for this. Unfortunately my pump is much worse and actually has holes in it from rust, hence why I’m taking it off. I may do the 2-4 band while I’m there anyways.
If you run a thin putty knife all around the case and the pump to depth of o ring frees the pump up from case due to corrosion
Instead of using a hydraulic floor jack you should use an "Engine Support Bar". And you chain the engine to the bar and then remove all 4 of the subframe (aka engine cradle) bolts. Then you can lower the entire engine, trans and cradle. Which will give you much more room and better access to the transmission cover.
I might need to do this. Yesterday my escape just start reving while i was driving, basically like the clutch is slipping. I kept having to pull over and hope the trans would engage. When it finally did then it would driver and give out again. Does this sound like the same problem?
My experience was not so great. My band was not broken, but i replaced it anyway. My engine sputtered and died twice. Now will not crank. I hope I didn’t seize my transaxle. But I think I messed it up bad. I hope part 2 of this video is a successful repair.
I think there is something with bad oil or one of the
gear oil switch is fault.
Did you ever finish this repair ? Any final video of completed repair
Hello I'm having the same problem i bought the band, but I'm having doubts and thinking to leave it as is because I've been driving the vehicle for around 30k miles and I'm afraid this won't work in my case.
I'm really looking for all the help i can use if you have any tips or advice please let me know.
Hi I did the same and replaced the band after installation and tested it it was not shifting please give me a have if you can
I'm going to attempt the same repair this weekend, but was hoping you could answer a question for me. I understand 100% what needs to be done but are there other wires/hoses I must disconnect before lowering the engine? Thanks in advance
Dj Flex I am balls deep in this same repair. I’m curious how you made out? I’m waiting until I have the new band from Ford before I pop the pump off. Getting replaced regardless of its condition. For the cost of the part, it’s worth doing. A lot of work involved so far.
no engine wires need to be disconnected besides battery. I did this job twice so far. First time on 2005 Escape was unsuccessful I did not hold screw driver in firmly and the "guts" fell out, second time on 2008 Escape was successful Used a long pointed pry bard instead on screw driver. Takes about 2 hours and I got no mechanic experience. Instead of using a slide hammer I used 2 long hook bolts from homedepot and pulled by hand while leaving 2-3 screws in place.
@@warriorsinternational1826 Rather than going through all that with the engine cradle. Wouldn't it be easier to just cut an inch out of that fender skirt ? Not for a customer of course but for my personal vehicle.
@@conservativethought1460was thinking the same!!😅
I don't have a large socket to remove the hub nut, can the whole assemply with drive shaft be removed and put back without removing the hub nut?
The inside body fell out and I put it back in but seems like something is misalligned. my trans pump shaft in centerspun out and twisted and broke after I reassembled and restart now dead in water. I did not hold it in properly with screwdriver and inside fell out. Any ideas how to relign without removing entire transmission?
G Scope yes, that happened to me too and my shaft got twisted as well. What happened was the drum was not all the way in, the pump got compressed really hard with the bolts and couldn’t spin and that is why the shaft got twisted and snapped. I lost all my video footage about it though. Anyway. you can fix that on the car. First of all when buying the be shaft be careful with the length. There are two different lengths, so make sure you measure the one that snapped and have in mind that now that it is twisted it became a little shorter. Then you have to play a lot with the drum while putting it back. Jiggle it left and right, up and down until it is all the way in. When it is in it is pretty stable and stays centred. It has 2 points where you think it is in, but it actually needs to go further. What I did was I measured ho far the pump sticks out of the flange where the big o-ring goes and then i made sure that this distance is matching the distance from the flange on the body to the drum. I hope you understand what I mean. You will find that the pump goes in very easy when the drum is all the way in. If you need to force it with the bolts then your drum is still not in the right place. I hope that helps. Good luck
@@RustyBeautiessame thing happened to me can you help me out ?
Hello there. Is this change for repairing the knock when shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear?
Hi i was wondering if you could please help me find and send a link for this 2-4 band for my 2007 Ford Escape Limited V6 3.0L 4WD
Nice video liked and subbed
Nice job but should drain oil first because of oil pressure it's hard to open it
is there one for a 2010 ford escape
Благодарствую!
Is it possible to get this problem without any codes?
I same car my trans stopped working all together no gears any thoughts
Doing this job now, but because the cover rusted a hole through it and it pissed out real bad, jb weld just would not hold to patch, no decent steel left. Any suggestions for re aligning pump on new cover?? Btw great video, might save this 08 from the wreckers.
This is pure determination well done I have to do mine but I have no Mechanical Skill at all, this guy taught me a lot, anyone have any more links that show you how to remove the tranny pump
Got a part number???
Changed my 2-4 band and still down shifting after it hits between 22-24mph. Anyone have any ideas? I’m thinking possible Trans position sensor
Sounds like it could be a valve body problem or shift solenoid
$30 i would pay $80 if they make them not brake!
I have my Escap in the shop right now getting the trans rebuilt for the 3rd time!
Soak that trans plate with pb blaster for several days before removing anything!!! WD 40 is for squeaky door hinges!!
and no computer to help, only the Haynes manual.
2nd part of video? :-(
i did that and it was the biggest disasters ever. the pump was so rotted i pulled the center of the pump out of the trans .. it literally snapped lol. i said f it and just replaced the trans.
Hey Elin, your fans are missing you. You OK? Ben
Hi Ben, thanks for checking. Yes, I am fine. Just things were keeping me away from my projects for a while. I am working on a new video right now so hopefully tonight I will be able to finish and post it. Thanks :)
P00732 ?
Hi what was the symptoms of this transmission?
Hmmm, that was a long time ago, but I think it was very harsh switch to second and no fourth at all.
@@RustyBeauties thanks for the reply. And also have you had engine noise when you start it?
Instead of all the hard work I would have removed the 3 bolts/nuts on top of the strut and then removed the lower ball joint bolt and once the bolt is remove bed and driveshaft removed from the steering knuckle you remove the entire upper left front suspension system leaving only the lower control arm.
Haha yeah looks like a good ford you need to escape from the escort
I beat on one of them for 2 hours and it's still in the transmission.