Wow You weren't kidding about there being a lot of little important steps that everyone else leaves out ! Thanks for being so complete ! Best channel in my opinion . Thanks so much for going through all the extra work producing and thanks for sharing ! Cheers
Another nice video, Tim. A little story about those studs - I replaced the rotors and pads on my D250 about 6 years ago. I pounded those studs back in as well as I could and just torqued them after I got the wheel back on there, and I don't think I did it in a star pattern. This would turn out to be a big mistake. The test drive seemed ok, so I thought all was good. A while later I had to make a 2,000 mile trip. I got about 750 miles into it when I had to swerve hard on the freeway to avoid rear-ending someone because of a sudden traffic backup. Apparently some of those studs weren't bottomed out, because after that swerve I had a very bad wobble in my front right wheel. I took the next exit, and limped to a parking lot. I was kind of mad about it so when I turned into the lot I jerked the wheel to the right and hit the gutter pretty hard. To my amazement, that realigned the hub and rotor. I stopped the truck and cinched those studs back down, and it's been good ever since. But now my rotors are warped (again), so I'm replacing them with some dimpled and slotted ones from brakeperformance.com. That's why I'm here getting a refresher on installation. This time I'll torque those studs down in a star pattern before putting the wheel back on. Thanks again for another great video.
Thanks a bunch. The first run at it gave me hell, but the second one took about 4 hours total, I appreciate the reassembly part of the video. Very helpful. Something that wasn't clear during the process, was that the rotor holes are big enough for the studs to drop right in, it's the hubs you're hammering into. Just a note for anyone who has this problem, if they don't drop right in, don't force it. You WILL crack the rotor at the bolt holes. I got a rotor that had the wrong size bolt hole (too small) and tried pressing and hammering, both methods cracked the rotor.
Bro thank you so much for this video, I've never done brakes on my truck before and had no idea what I was getting myself into, the assembly part was awesome too didnt know how to do a lot of that
First Gen. My dad had one . There are a few things we did to his truck that seemed to help . If you have a tire on the front that seems to wear badly from a lot of negative camber as my dad truck was there is a way to fix it if you have access to a lathe . My father machined the spindles on a taper or what ever the correct name for the parts are . That caused the tires to sit flat and had pretty close to 0 camber . Secondly on the first Gen hydroboost can results in better brakes . Thanks for the videos
Great video! I've been down this route several times with my dodges. I've never seen lug studs torqued on. I've always beat them in with a hammer. Can't wait to see your next project!
Thanks for the video. But I think you missed stating one critical step. On reassembly, after the first nut is set against the outer bearing correctly, *the small pin on that nut MUST engage one of the holes in that washer.* This means you might need to slightly turn that inner nut one way or the other to make that happen, and that's what ultimately holds the inner nut at the correct setting. The outer nut merely holds the washer in place.
For a little bit of prevention to damage to the lugnuts or studs when your beating them out put the lugnut on each individual one then hit them, for resetting the studs throw three washers between the stud and lugnut and hit it with an impact it’ll save your back 20 years from now and it’s a bit quicker
17:00 min to get those steps back in the easy way , get some over size washers and one fitted washer and then take your nut and drill them back in, worked for me very well, instead of bashing them in :)
Here I thought the rear breaks were a pain, the front looks worse! Thanks for the tutorial though, because mine will new it soon I bet, and this will help a lot
Great video! I'm currently in the middle of working on my 92 W250 brakes. Ordered the Nut Socket off the link you provided but it was too small. Stopped by O'Reilly's to pick up a 2 5/8 socket that fits perfectly.
Shoot! Sorry about that. Sometimes when a product goes out of stock Amazon automatically recommends something "close" and in this case that won't work. Glad you got it figured out.
@@decentgarage Yea I think the original axle was a Dana 44 and the previous owner put a Dana 60 in. That's probably where the sizes differed. All good though. Still best video I've found. Keep it up! Look forward to checking out your other videos.
I will be doing brakes all the way around on mine as well. Mine shimmies pretty bad. Also my caliper shim is all worn out on the passenger side so it slams back and forth. Gotta do rear brakes too and the one side is soaked in oil so new seals as well 😅. Oh yea and my brake booster has a pin hole leak....
I used 2-5/8” the socket on his site says for Danna 44, which is 2-3/8 I bought that one from auto zone n didn’t fit. I had to drive around looking for the 2-5/8”. The 2-1/2 seem to fit as well but I liked the 2-5/8” design better that’s why I went with that one.
Hey I know this is an older video but I think something is wrong with the link for the socket. I ordered the exact one from the link and I just found out that the socket is too small.
Shoot, I don't remember the part number. In that case I would go look it up on rock auto to get the part number. I like how rock auto organizes their parts
Went to auto zone to see if the had caliper, the part came up.(I watched them put in info🤪 ) and . couldn't find the correct one, none would fit🙄??? Any ideas??
When you do this, it's a great time to do a 9/16" stud conversion. It's funny I just posted this job on my channel too! czcams.com/video/SM5v3X8blGc/video.html
Who's excited about another sweet project!?
Heck yea I just bought my first real truck (93 w250) I'm so psyched!! Love ur videos watch them all
Is this the same for 5 lug 4x4?
@@jeffcuevas5728 i do not know the answer to that. Someone else may chime in
Wow You weren't kidding about there being a lot of little important steps that everyone else leaves out ! Thanks for being so complete ! Best channel in my opinion . Thanks so much for going through all the extra work producing and thanks for sharing ! Cheers
Yeah it's a process but honestly it's pretty simple
Dude. I love your channel. You deserve a million subscribers for not only taking the steps to explain but then show it out BACK together
I appreciate that!
Another nice video, Tim. A little story about those studs - I replaced the rotors and pads on my D250 about 6 years ago. I pounded those studs back in as well as I could and just torqued them after I got the wheel back on there, and I don't think I did it in a star pattern. This would turn out to be a big mistake. The test drive seemed ok, so I thought all was good. A while later I had to make a 2,000 mile trip. I got about 750 miles into it when I had to swerve hard on the freeway to avoid rear-ending someone because of a sudden traffic backup. Apparently some of those studs weren't bottomed out, because after that swerve I had a very bad wobble in my front right wheel. I took the next exit, and limped to a parking lot. I was kind of mad about it so when I turned into the lot I jerked the wheel to the right and hit the gutter pretty hard. To my amazement, that realigned the hub and rotor. I stopped the truck and cinched those studs back down, and it's been good ever since. But now my rotors are warped (again), so I'm replacing them with some dimpled and slotted ones from brakeperformance.com. That's why I'm here getting a refresher on installation. This time I'll torque those studs down in a star pattern before putting the wheel back on. Thanks again for another great video.
Dang that's a crazy story! Luckily mine all seem to have seated correctly
Thanks a bunch. The first run at it gave me hell, but the second one took about 4 hours total, I appreciate the reassembly part of the video. Very helpful. Something that wasn't clear during the process, was that the rotor holes are big enough for the studs to drop right in, it's the hubs you're hammering into. Just a note for anyone who has this problem, if they don't drop right in, don't force it. You WILL crack the rotor at the bolt holes. I got a rotor that had the wrong size bolt hole (too small) and tried pressing and hammering, both methods cracked the rotor.
Bro thank you so much for this video, I've never done brakes on my truck before and had no idea what I was getting myself into, the assembly part was awesome too didnt know how to do a lot of that
Glad I could help
Can't wait to see what the new project is have a safe trip.
Thanks!
Both you and @decent_garage painted some badass Cummins Crew Cabs!
@@DuddiesAdventure thanks.
Thanks for the tips! I just did a complete front rebuild on my 1993 w150 plow truck using just your video. A great adventure.
First Gen. My dad had one . There are a few things we did to his truck that seemed to help . If you have a tire on the front that seems to wear badly from a lot of negative camber as my dad truck was there is a way to fix it if you have access to a lathe . My father machined the spindles on a taper or what ever the correct name for the parts are . That caused the tires to sit flat and had pretty close to 0 camber . Secondly on the first Gen hydroboost can results in better brakes . Thanks for the videos
Great video! I've been down this route several times with my dodges. I've never seen lug studs torqued on. I've always beat them in with a hammer. Can't wait to see your next project!
Yeah, I honestly just made that up on the fly but it worked really well haha. #decent_mechanic
Good Job Tim ! Looking forward to seeing your new Project ! Be careful on the road !
Thanks! Will do!
Excellent video!... No BS just the facts and great video. The crocs are the magic.
Thanks for the video. But I think you missed stating one critical step. On reassembly, after the first nut is set against the outer bearing correctly, *the small pin on that nut MUST engage one of the holes in that washer.* This means you might need to slightly turn that inner nut one way or the other to make that happen, and that's what ultimately holds the inner nut at the correct setting. The outer nut merely holds the washer in place.
For a little bit of prevention to damage to the lugnuts or studs when your beating them out put the lugnut on each individual one then hit them, for resetting the studs throw three washers between the stud and lugnut and hit it with an impact it’ll save your back 20 years from now and it’s a bit quicker
That's genius! I'll do that next time for sure!
17:00 min to get those steps back in the easy way , get some over size washers and one fitted washer and then take your nut and drill them back in, worked for me very well, instead of bashing them in :)
Excellent idea!
@@decentgarage ;)
Good job i enjoyed the detail and you were very clear and precise
Thanks! 👍
I used socket size 2-5/8” the one on his site is 2-3/8 for Danna 44 light duty dodges
Appreciate the effort for sure. My question is the following, does this procedure apply to 2 wheel drive also?
I haven't done it on a 2wd. My guess is that it would be a little more simple since you don't have to disassemble the locking hub.
Watch @ Jason explains things on CZcams he works on a 2wd D150 it’s the same parts as a Cummings 2500/3500 lol
Damn. Send me those rotors. No rust on them. Nothing last up here in Maine. Good video
I actually wish I would have held on to them and just had them turned to take care of the huge gouge in them. Live and learn.
Here I thought the rear breaks were a pain, the front looks worse! Thanks for the tutorial though, because mine will new it soon I bet, and this will help a lot
Yeah it was a pretty lengthy process but totally doable. If a decent_mechanic can do it then anyone can.
decent_garage good point, and I do enjoy getting to know my truck along the process of fixing something on it.
@@Valve-sb7ne exactly, im pretty intimidated by any project I do on mine but once I dig in it becomes fun to learn
decent_garage I’m the exact same way
Could you do wheel bearings please
Go watch my video of redoing the front brake pads and rotors. I address and repack the bearing in that video.
Great video! I'm currently in the middle of working on my 92 W250 brakes. Ordered the Nut Socket off the link you provided but it was too small. Stopped by O'Reilly's to pick up a 2 5/8 socket that fits perfectly.
Shoot! Sorry about that. Sometimes when a product goes out of stock Amazon automatically recommends something "close" and in this case that won't work. Glad you got it figured out.
@@decentgarage Yea I think the original axle was a Dana 44 and the previous owner put a Dana 60 in. That's probably where the sizes differed. All good though. Still best video I've found. Keep it up! Look forward to checking out your other videos.
@@jaredcarmo321 thanks man!
I will be doing brakes all the way around on mine as well. Mine shimmies pretty bad. Also my caliper shim is all worn out on the passenger side so it slams back and forth. Gotta do rear brakes too and the one side is soaked in oil so new seals as well 😅. Oh yea and my brake booster has a pin hole leak....
Caliper shims? I guess I better check those too haha. I'm learning with every video!
decent_garage I meant those things you pound out that hold the caliper in my bad
@@Dibbs18 oh good! I didn't know that's what they were called 😂
Hi decent garage. I ordered the spindle nut socket from the website you provided and it is a bit too small. Would you happen to know what size I need?
I used 2-5/8” the socket on his site says for Danna 44, which is 2-3/8 I bought that one from auto zone n didn’t fit. I had to drive around looking for the 2-5/8”. The 2-1/2 seem to fit as well but I liked the 2-5/8” design better that’s why I went with that one.
@@isilence4558 good to know, I just ended up grinding off two of the tabs and it worked out
Great.
Thanks.
Hey I know this is an older video but I think something is wrong with the link for the socket. I ordered the exact one from the link and I just found out that the socket is too small.
another excellent vid
, thx
Thanks!
Decent
Thoughts on converting the rear to disc brakes?
It's a great upgrade.
In your parts and tool links I didn't see any link for the good looking racheting screwdriver?
Maybe I should do a "what's in my toolbox?" video soon... Thoughts?
@@decentgarage Tool box tour, I like it!
Do you have any insight on why my rotor is rubbing against one of the steel ear pieces (where the caliper sits between)?
The link for the special socket fits a Dana 60f on the 93 W250 Cummins 1st gen?
Great vid subscribed! I was wondering if you have a part number for rotors? Seems they make a few different sizes for the d60 4500lb axles. Thanks
Shoot! I didn't write down the part numbers. I just picked them up from Napa and used what their all knowing computers said
What size wheels do you guys run on w250 got 16.5 on mine and have to change size can't find them anymore
I run 16s. Tires for 16.5 are almost impossible to find as you have found out.
Can you change the studs with out taking the hub of the spindle?
You might be able to if you did it one stud at a time
Ooooo through the little open spot on the back right, a mean turning the hub one at time?
@@EduardoSilva-xe3gp yeah you can just press one out and then press the new one in and do that for all of them
I really appreciate it Sr your are a life saver like to all of videos
@@EduardoSilva-xe3gp no problem 👍
Subbed
You won't regret it.
Hey bud you remember the part number for the rotor? Oriellys seems to be having hell trying to find one.
Shoot, I don't remember the part number. In that case I would go look it up on rock auto to get the part number. I like how rock auto organizes their parts
@@decentgarage I sure appreciate it brother!
Orrin, did you happen to get a part number?
Went to auto zone to see if the had caliper, the part came up.(I watched them put in info🤪 ) and . couldn't find the correct one, none would fit🙄??? Any ideas??
Shoot. I haven't had to look for calipers yet but it seems like they should be able to pull it up through their algorhythm.
when are u putting wheels ?
As soon as I can find someone to donate some! haha
When you do this, it's a great time to do a 9/16" stud conversion. It's funny I just posted this job on my channel too! czcams.com/video/SM5v3X8blGc/video.html
Yeah most people suggest that but my 1/2" studs work fine with my current wheels. If I change wheels I'll definitely upgrade!