Here's what worked even better for me. I noticed he did 2 layers of tape in long strips across all the pads. Scratch that. I did 4 layers of tape, and I cut them into squares as close as possible to the size of the pads themselves. The pads are VERY responsive now, and there is no cross-talk. With the strips, hitting one pad hard tends to trigger adjascent pads. Thanks for the vid, DarkoAqua!
Update: For anyone about to try DarkAqua's mod - go for it. I just got done with mine and it was a (relatively) quick and easy success! I used masking tape like DarkAqua, but I DID cut it into individual squares because I just couldn't help myself and there was no one here to stop me - and I did 2 layers of the masking tape per each individual square, followed by 1 single long strand of masking tape over each row of the individual 2-layered squares, for a total of 3 layers of tape per square. It's working fantastically.. no stuck notes and a nice amount of sensitivity, just about perfect. The cool thing is how easy this was and how simple it would be to just add more layers of tape for even more sensitivity if I wanted, but right now it's just about perfect for my touch. You can experiment with the sensitivity/layers of tape vs. how hard you like to hit the pads. So definitely give his mod a try. Thanks again for the video showing us how to easily take it apart. BTW, I use this in Sonar X3e, and the Korg Kontrol Editor that works with this thing doesn't let you write the changes you made on the NanoPad2 to the NanoPad2 when Sonar is running.. you'll get a 'Could not open MIDI port' type of error.. but if you close Sonar then you can write the changes you've made to the NanoPad2. This problem may be unique to Sonar, but I believe it also may be due to the Korg driver not being a multi-client driver (i.e. can only work with one program at a time). Anyway, FYI. Rock on.
Amazing fix, I did that to my new nanopad2 and it worked like a charm. I did to cut small rectangles for each pad, and use a few layers of tape, and also put an insulating foam between pcb and bottom case. Thanks for all the tips in the comments!
*Another modification you can make:* before assembling the controller's back cover (@ 6:25), add a thin layer of packing foam sandwiched between the device and the case. This makes the NanoPad much quieter, as usually, when playing, the back of the PCB hits the case, producing a *lot* of noise, making the device seem like a toy and annoying everybody. With this second mod, drumming sounds like hitting on a pad instead of smashing your device.
Hi, thanks so much for this video. I did my own mod by cutting 11x2.2 cm printer paper strips and folding them in 5 layers of 2.2x2.2 cm squares, one for each pad. It seems to work better than one long sheet, and one A4 size sheet of paper would be enough to cover all pads. Also used the white soft packaging the device comes with to make a dampening layer between the pcb and the back cover. Had to cut holes for the three PCB screws to make it fit nicely, but it's all quieter and more sensitive now. Careful with the PCB connector cable, seems rather fragile. Other than that, it's easy to open and close the product fast, if you want to experiment, but hopefully you'll only have to do it once. Cheeers!
When I tested this device yesterday, I was very sad about how bad the sensitivity was. Almost had to smash the pads to get some sound! How the guys at Korg did something like that?!? Anyway... your video saved my day! But 2 layers was too little... I did a lot of tests and finally I had to put FIVE (!) layers of paper tape and one more of insulating tape. This is what worked best for me. I think that whoever wants to do this hack, must find the right spot for his specific device. Now it's much more responsive and allows me to play on virtual drums, without the need of a hammer... :) Thanks!!!
Hice la modificación, cambió notablemente la respuesta de los pads (para mejor). Le coloqué 2 cintas por lado, no se si con 3 por lado quedaría aún mejor. Muchas gracias me sirvió mucho tu vídeo. Saludos.
2020 here and it still works like a charm! I've put like 5 layers and change the Velocity Curve to LIGHT on the Kontrol Editor App under Global/Common settings and it plays just like a pad should. Check out the other great tip by Christ Jones on the comments section about sticking something between the board and the plastic bottom, reduces the noise big time! Off to finger drumming now!
It sure does but it is so simple and easy to remove the tape anytime. Watch for the flat cable that connects pcb board and top half of the case, that is the only thing to worry about. Mine was a year old (second-hand barely used) and I was very dissapointed, so this was "a must do" thing or I would through it away. Also, nanoPad 2 series does not break like nanoPad 1, according to one shop that sells them nP1 return rate is 70-80%, and nP2 is a different story since it is completely redesigned.
yes, ordinary paper tape - 2 layers on each side (one over another) was optimal for me at the end, but check first with a single layer to see if it suites you better.
Hi jacob, not sure how it's called everywhere, but it is clearly shown in the video and can be recognized by the look. Most definetly it is not: 'scotch'/duct/transparent/selo tape, thick textile tape (bad), or insulation/electrical tape types. If you can find very thin textile tape (0.1 to 0.2 mm) it may be just fine. The thickness is more important and avoid strong adhesive tapes in case you change your mind and want to switch back without adhesive leftovers. Hope this clarifies it.
Placebo. I did this a few years back and did a before and after measuring the velocity output. It's don't make a change. Went back to the before (unaltered state). The Nanopad2 has an effective velocity range of 100 (27-100). So if you need access to the lightest 1 and the strongest 127, then you'd need a velocity scaler MFX of such. I also have the Trigger finger back in the UK, I remember sensitivity issues with that too. No one comparing these actually posts up the the measured output of the pads, so it;s really subjective with the pad texture influencing judgement. I'd love a launchpad Pro, but I can't see anyone meauring the real world sensitivity, so I may pick up anoth Korg (the 4 scenes and the software editor are great btw, alhough plugging two nanpads in at the same time, may confuse it)
Well, it's subjective, but I disagree. It definitely makes the change, since we're shifting the lower minimum force required to trigger them, effectively reducing the dynamic range at the expense of lower force and comfort (fingers no longer hurt). Also, at the end of the video you can see the live velocity chart with the mod, and approx 27-127 output with much lower force required, the difference is there :)
If you google Korg Nanopad2 mod an Amazon link will be one of the results and its about the 3rd review down on Amazon. But yeah, he says to use 8-10 layers of tape, but you're right he's probably using that thin clear tape you wrap presents with. I'll try the long strands then and see what that does. Less time consuming to experiment that way too.
Dude... This video could have lasted 3 minutes... All those screwing in and out are totally pointless and make up like 75% of this video... What a waste of time... Nice hack though...
From 9:35 you actualy demonstrates how any pad-beginners play music on it :DDD In fact great hack, I'm going to buy nanopad2 today and see how it helps
Hello. One question, is it possible to "trigger" chords saving them directly from one keyboard (like M3 with its dedicated pads), or is it necessary to program the nano pad before (using a PC)? Thank you for your answer.
hi me again, was just wondering, is there a way to tack an extra diy pad to the 'conductive' part of one of those pads to create an external pad for a bass/foot drum?...
Hmm, nope, unless you cut a piece of the conductive sheet from one pad and solder very tiny flat cable/wire to the board in it's place (e.g. like the cable that connects board to touch controller @ 2:20). I wouldn't recommend it, there is too much risk involved, you could easily disturb the entire structure and operation, like the thick tape did in the end. If the design was different, more robust one, you could pull that mod somehow. But, it is up to you if you wish to try. Probably, simpler solution would be to get a proper foot controller, a simple switch (no dynamics). Good luck!
I am not really current into foot midi controllers (I do not play guitar nor drums), but this may sound silly: if you have a piano sustain pedal (can be bought second-hand like really cheap for $10 or so, my vote goes for M-Audio) -- it can act as a simple on/off kick! Of course, no dynamics, but... You will need some high quality, sturdy and sensitive controller in a form of pedal for that, anyway. Another thing that might shock you - Logitech MOMO PC gaming wheel is essentially a MIDI device with foot pedals. Now, I never tried it when I owned it, but with some hacked drivers it could be used as a weird musical instrument :) The main difference between a foot pedal controllers, which are more commonly used for modulations, volume/fx envolopes and sustains is that when used for kicks it works as a velocity detector. The faster you press the pedal down, the higher the velocity. However, that is not the real model of a kick, and I am not sure if it works satisfactory. The proper midi kick controllers (Yamaha, Roland) are modeled like mallets and work pretty much the same way as a real thing. Better ask this question on KVR or GearSlutz forums.
So, I'm really good with tapping out beats using 4 fingers(pointer and middle finger on one hand for double kicks and pointer and middle finger from other hand for snares) and would like to be able to do that with this unit. I recently purchased one and found that I cannot play it like that and have to play a lot slower to get the needed force to trigger samples. Would this mod allow me to play the way I want? i.e. being able to do things like fast double kicks using 2 fingers from the same hand rather than using both hands to do double kicks? Thanks
I think you should try and see if it helps. From your description, I would say that it will definitely help you play easier and faster, as this will reduce the 'dead gap' present in factory unit. However, if you really are good at playing pads, you should consider a better controller, at minimum the Akai series. Good luck!
Hey thanks a lot man. I really don't know much about midi pad controllers. What particular akai unit would you recommend and if I were to splurge, what might be one that is even better than the akai that might better suit my needs?
You're welcome :) I don't have broad experience with pads, but from many reviews anything from Akai is great, including the older, but still great LPD8 (and now LPD8 wireless), through more serious MPD series. Also check older comments about Korg counterparts. You just need to try them live somewhere to get the idea.
Excelente vídeo, muchas gracias. Probaré la modificación; pero para empezar es un avance importante que te hayas tomado la molestia de hacerlo, ya que para mí también fue una decepción el producto de Korg, ya que no es para nada sensible al tacto y hay que golpear demasiado para que suene (golpeando los dedos contra cualquier superficie uno logra un sonido fácilmente, cosa que no pasa con el nanoPad2 original de fábrica). Gracias nuevamente
amigo! muchas gracias por comentar en español, la verdad me estaba volviendo loco porque no sabia si el programa que tengo no sirve o si me vino fallado el controlador, ahora veo que es algo "común", are de inmediato esta modificación espero que resulte!
León la modificación funciona. Mejora notablemente la sensibilidad, yo le puse dos cintas juntas en vez de una, te recomiendo que lo hagas así, saludos.
Hi, you mentioned that cutting individual squares of tape for each pad caused some of the pads to not work at all. I'm wondering how that could be, as it would stand to reason that putting individual squares of tape on each pad would work better than one long strand of tape which could possibly cause a sympathetic triggering of some of the nearby pads, since the single strand of tape would be more likely to connect them all. Was it the individual squares of textile tape you tried in the video, or did you also try that with the masking tape? Also, that Amazon review that you said you got this idea from said to put individual squares of tape for each pad and he also said to put 8-10 layers of tape for each, which is a lot more than the 2 layers you put... Did he really mean that many layers? How responsive are your pads with just 2 layers? I'll be modding mine tonight, but I think I'll try individual squares, seems like that'd be more efficient and less likely trigger nearby pads. Thanks for the video.
Hi, yes, well, it didn't make any sense to me either at first, but it really was happening. Now, when I think about it, the integral uncut strips perform better, because they kind-of pull and keep each pad section together. Individual pieces fill the gap better, sure, but they also get stuck easier. I have tried individual pieces with thick textile tape only, I have not tried this with thin versions, so I cannot tell you how that performs. You can try, but it takes a lot more time (to cut them and place them in position). Might not be as great as it looks. About that Amazon review, that was a very long time ago and can't find it now, but I do not recall of that many layers being mentioned. Maybe it was edited later, not sure. Possibly, no, I am positive, that got to be some ultra-thin tape kind. Just be careful for that flat cable that connects the touch pad with the board, you can experiment a lot without worry of breaking anything. It takes time, however, but it's easy. Cheers
100roberthenry Hi, just avoid thick tapes as noted in the end of the video. First, play few days without any changes and see if it feels right. Later you may try with thin tapes and see if it work better for you. Don't mod it right away ;-)
hchoe741 Yes, open KORG Kontrol Editor > Global tab > Common (default tab) > Velocity Curve = set to Constant. Change below Constant Velocity Value with +/- arrows to 100 or so. See screenshot: tinyurl.com/nsxn9kq
hchoe741 Ok, forgot to mention after that you need to press WRITE button to send & save settings into NanoPad2 itself. If you have more money, you should consider PadKontrol series, much better piece of HW, but nanoPad2 is OK for the price.
Would this putting masking tape on top of the rubber pads thing, work for a USB keyboard? I have just bought a USB keyboard and the action is shit. You have to press the key hardishhh in order to get a normal volume out of a note. This is awful and I'm sure you can imagine how awful it is going to use this, when you want to add notes when you are holding down a chord. It just doesn't feel right. I know that a keyboard is different from a drum pad, but don't they work in the same way?
+SDRockman Hi, I suppose you are talking about NanoKey, right? I know they extremely suck, but I have no idea how they appear inside, so the only way to find out is to unscrew the case and take a look. Please report here if you find something interesting. Good luck :)
+DarkoAqua Naw, it's not the Nanokey from Korg. It's called Acorn Masterkey and it's a 61 key keyboard. I have not seen any other comments going on about the action of this Masterkey keyboard action, but it is GARBAGE, and I really mean GARBAGE.
Well, no, I don't think that this method will be appropriate for a piano keyboard in that case. You see, it is a completely different mechanism inside it (springs... cheap). So, you need something better, check M-Audio midi keayboard models, they are generally great and affordable. Behringer is also OK for the money, if you need something cheap.
I tried your amazing mod but can't make it working :( i only hve transparent tape (i have brown and black tape too) same result. i put two layers on it and the responsive is still awful. any tips, about something i maybe missed ?
Unfortunately, there's the limit in how many layers you can stack, and tape thickness and elasticity plays crucial role, because too thick will make pads stuck. So, if you still find it unusable, I can only suggest you to go and try some more expensive controllers, or Akai series. The price of nanopad tells you all :-)
abolutly ! i took the decision to send back the Pad and wait to find a Steinberg CMC PD (Pad version). I need it to use as keyoard shorcut (under windows) and Control change/keyswitch to change articulation for orchestral library. anyway, unfortunatly, the nanopad can't send fixed note different for each pad. (for example i need to send a CC32 at value=20 and CC32 at value=40. it can be fixed with bome midi translator, but it will not fix the pad velocity issue, i have hands issues so i must now only use crappy action controleur very light (i was an ex pro pianist,i'm using a real piano as a master keyboard controller and had a Motif 8 as well), can't use them anymore because of the pain, so having pain just by typing hard on some pads is a NO NO. Thanks anyway for your help ! do you have any suggestion for something like the nanopoad that i can use for that, i need something small, (the steinberd CMC series are very hard to find). temporary i'll use my nanokey2 (work better than the nanopad lol) to send CC change/keyswitch until i find an another soution. yes, we have what we have for the price, completly right ;), but what is disturbing is pad 1, 5 and 6 are working ok, but all the other pads are not... i come from an old time (lol) where Korg was doing rock solid gear (Wavestation, M1, etc...). the nano series is a really great idea, but doig it a bit better by adding some $$ to the price would have been a better idea than making things cr*p.
I don't have experience with pad models from last couple of years, so can't really recommend anything. From the looks, Steinberg CMC-PD looks nice and might be just what you need. I ended up with nanopad2 by chance, found a good deal I couldn't miss, but what I really wanted was padControl, which was a more serious and expensive model. I suggest that you pay a visit to couple of local stores and give some trials to get an idea about their pads sensitivity and feel. About individual pads settings, if recall right, there were settings for CC and program numbers, but not sure about fixed velocity and values (?). Sorry about your condition and that I cannot help more.
No problem thank you for the answer. i'm checking the akai MPD series, not bad ! i must check if they can send a fixed CC value ! yes, the CMC are amazing ! i have 2 CMC FD (they are tactil fader for mix console), one CH. it's old discontinued gear, because it's only working with cubase, but it's top , well made, and solid ! Take Care ! if you can, you can check my channel to see what i can do with a Piano and a optical Midi system with it.
100roberthenry Actually, earlier generation was more complex and interesting inside (not sure about performance though). This version is much simpler, kind of disappointing really :)
DarkoAqua The second one. If it was right it would mean you wouldn't get any sound unless you hit the pad really hard. In this case your mod would make it worse.
pikherz The diagrams are for illustration purposes only, there aren't precise values on any axis. However, depending on the thickness of the tape you choose, you can make a huge difference, so the charts in those cases will not be too much off, even relatively speaking. Regards.
DarkoAqua I don't mean that they slightly off. Its simply the wrong way around. The graph should start high on the y-axis at x=0 and exponentially (or linearly if you want) go up to the top right corner.
That would mean that factory Korg NanoPad2 triggers notes (generates note+velocity signal) on y-axis even with 0 force applied (x-axis), which is not correct and does not make any sense. However, if you look throughout the entire video, you will see that I already included the exact chart you describe -- when I used a very thick tape (causing 'stucked' pads and random triggering).
right; the first thing you should do with this electronics product it take a screw driver to it and start messing with its innards -- and fuck everything up no thanks.
Of course, if you aren't confident enough with electronics that's best. On the other hand, this is a really simple gadget, only tricky part that can break is a flat cable, so you have to be careful.
thanks for your reply didn't mean to sound snarky. lol. I have a terrible record when it comes to electronics and screwdrivers, so I left it alone. That said, this product definitely needs some revision, cause it sucks....velocity is all off and it's cheap and flimsy.
Here's what worked even better for me.
I noticed he did 2 layers of tape in long strips across all the pads.
Scratch that. I did 4 layers of tape, and I cut them into squares as close as possible to the size of the pads themselves. The pads are VERY responsive now, and there is no cross-talk. With the strips, hitting one pad hard tends to trigger adjascent pads.
Thanks for the vid, DarkoAqua!
Update: For anyone about to try DarkAqua's mod - go for it. I just got done with mine and it was a (relatively) quick and easy success! I used masking tape like DarkAqua, but I DID cut it into individual squares because I just couldn't help myself and there was no one here to stop me - and I did 2 layers of the masking tape per each individual square, followed by 1 single long strand of masking tape over each row of the individual 2-layered squares, for a total of 3 layers of tape per square. It's working fantastically.. no stuck notes and a nice amount of sensitivity, just about perfect. The cool thing is how easy this was and how simple it would be to just add more layers of tape for even more sensitivity if I wanted, but right now it's just about perfect for my touch. You can experiment with the sensitivity/layers of tape vs. how hard you like to hit the pads. So definitely give his mod a try. Thanks again for the video showing us how to easily take it apart.
BTW, I use this in Sonar X3e, and the Korg Kontrol Editor that works with this thing doesn't let you write the changes you made on the NanoPad2 to the NanoPad2 when Sonar is running.. you'll get a 'Could not open MIDI port' type of error.. but if you close Sonar then you can write the changes you've made to the NanoPad2. This problem may be unique to Sonar, but I believe it also may be due to the Korg driver not being a multi-client driver (i.e. can only work with one program at a time). Anyway, FYI. Rock on.
+Christ Jones Cool and thanks for sharing your experience - really nice :)
its DARKOAQUA
Amazing fix, I did that to my new nanopad2 and it worked like a charm. I did to cut small rectangles for each pad, and use a few layers of tape, and also put an insulating foam between pcb and bottom case. Thanks for all the tips in the comments!
*Another modification you can make:* before assembling the controller's back cover (@ 6:25), add a thin layer of packing foam sandwiched between the device and the case.
This makes the NanoPad much quieter, as usually, when playing, the back of the PCB hits the case, producing a *lot* of noise, making the device seem like a toy and annoying everybody.
With this second mod, drumming sounds like hitting on a pad instead of smashing your device.
Thanks for the tip, sounds great! :)
Or should I say "sounds" ;)
Brilliant tip, sir. Thank you. The packaging of the device was perfect for this.
Hi, thanks so much for this video. I did my own mod by cutting 11x2.2 cm printer paper strips and folding them in 5 layers of 2.2x2.2 cm squares, one for each pad. It seems to work better than one long sheet, and one A4 size sheet of paper would be enough to cover all pads. Also used the white soft packaging the device comes with to make a dampening layer between the pcb and the back cover. Had to cut holes for the three PCB screws to make it fit nicely, but it's all quieter and more sensitive now.
Careful with the PCB connector cable, seems rather fragile. Other than that, it's easy to open and close the product fast, if you want to experiment, but hopefully you'll only have to do it once.
Cheeers!
When I tested this device yesterday, I was very sad about how bad the sensitivity was. Almost had to smash the pads to get some sound! How the guys at Korg did something like that?!?
Anyway... your video saved my day! But 2 layers was too little... I did a lot of tests and finally I had to put FIVE (!) layers of paper tape and one more of insulating tape. This is what worked best for me. I think that whoever wants to do this hack, must find the right spot for his specific device.
Now it's much more responsive and allows me to play on virtual drums, without the need of a hammer... :)
Thanks!!!
I cut strips of paper (11 x 2.2cm), and folded them for each pad, also in 5 layers. They feel fine. Didn't try 6. I think I'll leave it like that.
Hice la modificación, cambió notablemente la respuesta de los pads (para mejor).
Le coloqué 2 cintas por lado, no se si con 3 por lado quedaría aún mejor.
Muchas gracias me sirvió mucho tu vídeo. Saludos.
2020 here and it still works like a charm! I've put like 5 layers and change the Velocity Curve to LIGHT on the Kontrol Editor App under Global/Common settings and it plays just like a pad should. Check out the other great tip by Christ Jones on the comments section about sticking something between the board and the plastic bottom, reduces the noise big time! Off to finger drumming now!
It sure does but it is so simple and easy to remove the tape anytime. Watch for the flat cable that connects pcb board and top half of the case, that is the only thing to worry about. Mine was a year old (second-hand barely used) and I was very dissapointed, so this was "a must do" thing or I would through it away. Also, nanoPad 2 series does not break like nanoPad 1, according to one shop that sells them nP1 return rate is 70-80%, and nP2 is a different story since it is completely redesigned.
yes, ordinary paper tape - 2 layers on each side (one over another) was optimal for me at the end, but check first with a single layer to see if it suites you better.
Hi jacob, not sure how it's called everywhere, but it is clearly shown in the video and can be recognized by the look. Most definetly it is not: 'scotch'/duct/transparent/selo tape, thick textile tape (bad), or insulation/electrical tape types. If you can find very thin textile tape (0.1 to 0.2 mm) it may be just fine. The thickness is more important and avoid strong adhesive tapes in case you change your mind and want to switch back without adhesive leftovers. Hope this clarifies it.
Placebo. I did this a few years back and did a before and after measuring the velocity output. It's don't make a change. Went back to the before (unaltered state). The Nanopad2 has an effective velocity range of 100 (27-100). So if you need access to the lightest 1 and the strongest 127, then you'd need a velocity scaler MFX of such. I also have the Trigger finger back in the UK, I remember sensitivity issues with that too. No one comparing these actually posts up the the measured output of the pads, so it;s really subjective with the pad texture influencing judgement. I'd love a launchpad Pro, but I can't see anyone meauring the real world sensitivity, so I may pick up anoth Korg (the 4 scenes and the software editor are great btw, alhough plugging two nanpads in at the same time, may confuse it)
Well, it's subjective, but I disagree. It definitely makes the change, since we're shifting the lower minimum force required to trigger them, effectively reducing the dynamic range at the expense of lower force and comfort (fingers no longer hurt). Also, at the end of the video you can see the live velocity chart with the mod, and approx 27-127 output with much lower force required, the difference is there :)
If you google Korg Nanopad2 mod an Amazon link will be one of the results and its about the 3rd review down on Amazon. But yeah, he says to use 8-10 layers of tape, but you're right he's probably using that thin clear tape you wrap presents with. I'll try the long strands then and see what that does. Less time consuming to experiment that way too.
Dude... This video could have lasted 3 minutes... All those screwing in and out are totally pointless and make up like 75% of this video... What a waste of time... Nice hack though...
From 9:35 you actualy demonstrates how any pad-beginners play music on it :DDD In fact great hack, I'm going to buy nanopad2 today and see how it helps
lol thanks :)
Worked great for me :) Thank you very much.
Hello. One question, is it possible to "trigger" chords saving them directly from one keyboard (like M3 with its dedicated pads), or is it necessary to program the nano pad before (using a PC)? Thank you for your answer.
Not possible without some Chord plugin, I am afraid. You need to use Korg to trigger chord/arpeggio plugin inside your DAW.
Works so fine! Thanks dude!!!
So wich one is better? Textile Tape, right??.
Thanks for sharing and the effort.
Does it not interfear with the warranty
did u used paper tape?
hi me again, was just wondering, is there a way to tack an extra diy pad to the 'conductive' part of one of those pads to create an external pad for a bass/foot drum?...
Hmm, nope, unless you cut a piece of the conductive sheet from one pad and solder very tiny flat cable/wire to the board in it's place (e.g. like the cable that connects board to touch controller @ 2:20). I wouldn't recommend it, there is too much risk involved, you could easily disturb the entire structure and operation, like the thick tape did in the end. If the design was different, more robust one, you could pull that mod somehow. But, it is up to you if you wish to try. Probably, simpler solution would be to get a proper foot controller, a simple switch (no dynamics). Good luck!
+DarkoAqua hmmm... cheers, i might buy an old second hand nano 1 to try it.... what foot controller would/could be used as a bass kick?..
I am not really current into foot midi controllers (I do not play guitar nor drums), but this may sound silly: if you have a piano sustain pedal (can be bought second-hand like really cheap for $10 or so, my vote goes for M-Audio) -- it can act as a simple on/off kick! Of course, no dynamics, but...
You will need some high quality, sturdy and sensitive controller in a form of pedal for that, anyway. Another thing that might shock you - Logitech MOMO PC gaming wheel is essentially a MIDI device with foot pedals. Now, I never tried it when I owned it, but with some hacked drivers it could be used as a weird musical instrument :)
The main difference between a foot pedal controllers, which are more commonly used for modulations, volume/fx envolopes and sustains is that when used for kicks it works as a velocity detector. The faster you press the pedal down, the higher the velocity. However, that is not the real model of a kick, and I am not sure if it works satisfactory. The proper midi kick controllers (Yamaha, Roland) are modeled like mallets and work pretty much the same way as a real thing.
Better ask this question on KVR or GearSlutz forums.
So, I'm really good with tapping out beats using 4 fingers(pointer and middle finger on one hand for double kicks and pointer and middle finger from other hand for snares) and would like to be able to do that with this unit. I recently purchased one and found that I cannot play it like that and have to play a lot slower to get the needed force to trigger samples. Would this mod allow me to play the way I want? i.e. being able to do things like fast double kicks using 2 fingers from the same hand rather than using both hands to do double kicks? Thanks
I think you should try and see if it helps. From your description, I would say that it will definitely help you play easier and faster, as this will reduce the 'dead gap' present in factory unit. However, if you really are good at playing pads, you should consider a better controller, at minimum the Akai series. Good luck!
Hey thanks a lot man. I really don't know much about midi pad controllers. What particular akai unit would you recommend and if I were to splurge, what might be one that is even better than the akai that might better suit my needs?
You're welcome :) I don't have broad experience with pads, but from many reviews anything from Akai is great, including the older, but still great LPD8 (and now LPD8 wireless), through more serious MPD series. Also check older comments about Korg counterparts. You just need to try them live somewhere to get the idea.
Excelente vídeo, muchas gracias.
Probaré la modificación; pero para empezar es un avance importante que te hayas tomado la molestia de hacerlo, ya que para mí también fue una decepción el producto de Korg, ya que no es para nada sensible al tacto y hay que golpear demasiado para que suene (golpeando los dedos contra cualquier superficie uno logra un sonido fácilmente, cosa que no pasa con el nanoPad2 original de fábrica). Gracias nuevamente
amigo! muchas gracias por comentar en español, la verdad me estaba volviendo loco porque no sabia si el programa que tengo no sirve o si me vino fallado el controlador, ahora veo que es algo "común", are de inmediato esta modificación espero que resulte!
León la modificación funciona. Mejora notablemente la sensibilidad, yo le puse dos cintas juntas en vez de una, te recomiendo que lo hagas así, saludos.
I did It It works very well ! Great ! TANX!
Hi, you mentioned that cutting individual squares of tape for each pad caused some of the pads to not work at all. I'm wondering how that could be, as it would stand to reason that putting individual squares of tape on each pad would work better than one long strand of tape which could possibly cause a sympathetic triggering of some of the nearby pads, since the single strand of tape would be more likely to connect them all. Was it the individual squares of textile tape you tried in the video, or did you also try that with the masking tape? Also, that Amazon review that you said you got this idea from said to put individual squares of tape for each pad and he also said to put 8-10 layers of tape for each, which is a lot more than the 2 layers you put... Did he really mean that many layers? How responsive are your pads with just 2 layers? I'll be modding mine tonight, but I think I'll try individual squares, seems like that'd be more efficient and less likely trigger nearby pads. Thanks for the video.
Hi, yes, well, it didn't make any sense to me either at first, but it really was happening. Now, when I think about it, the integral uncut strips perform better, because they kind-of pull and keep each pad section together. Individual pieces fill the gap better, sure, but they also get stuck easier.
I have tried individual pieces with thick textile tape only, I have not tried this with thin versions, so I cannot tell you how that performs. You can try, but it takes a lot more time (to cut them and place them in position). Might not be as great as it looks.
About that Amazon review, that was a very long time ago and can't find it now, but I do not recall of that many layers being mentioned. Maybe it was edited later, not sure. Possibly, no, I am positive, that got to be some ultra-thin tape kind.
Just be careful for that flat cable that connects the touch pad with the board, you can experiment a lot without worry of breaking anything. It takes time, however, but it's easy.
Cheers
GREAT VIDEO MAN!!!!AWSOME!THANKS A LOT!!
hi, i just got one of these for drums...does this 'mod'' cause any mis-triggers or multi pads being triggered?...cheers.
100roberthenry Hi, just avoid thick tapes as noted in the end of the video. First, play few days without any changes and see if it feels right. Later you may try with thin tapes and see if it work better for you. Don't mod it right away ;-)
DarkoAqua ok, i,ll try it for a few days, feels good, but could do with a little more sensitivity....cheers
100roberthenry might help setting velocity curve level in Korg Kontrol Editor under Global button tab.
DarkoAqua ahhh yes of course...nice one.
You're welcome :)
Later if you are still unsatisfied (as I was) you may try this modification.
Can you turn off the velocity sensitivity completely? so there is no dynamic range in the triggered drum sounds.
hchoe741 Yes, open KORG Kontrol Editor > Global tab > Common (default tab) > Velocity Curve = set to Constant. Change below Constant Velocity Value with +/- arrows to 100 or so. See screenshot: tinyurl.com/nsxn9kq
DarkoAqua Thanks!! Definitely considering buying one
hchoe741 Ok, forgot to mention after that you need to press WRITE button to send & save settings into NanoPad2 itself. If you have more money, you should consider PadKontrol series, much better piece of HW, but nanoPad2 is OK for the price.
DarkoAqua Thanks! I have no experience with anything midi so I think the nanopad would be a good starting point
hchoe741 Well, in that case it will be more than great! :)
Can't wait to buy it and try it out thanks
Great if u r on a budget. But if you want more serious drum pad controller and you can afford it, just look for something else.
Would this putting masking tape on top of the rubber pads thing, work for a USB keyboard?
I have just bought a USB keyboard and the action is shit.
You have to press the key hardishhh in order to get a normal volume out of a note.
This is awful and I'm sure you can imagine how awful it is going to use this, when you want to add notes when you are holding down a chord.
It just doesn't feel right.
I know that a keyboard is different from a drum pad, but don't they work in the same way?
+SDRockman Hi, I suppose you are talking about NanoKey, right? I know they extremely suck, but I have no idea how they appear inside, so the only way to find out is to unscrew the case and take a look. Please report here if you find something interesting. Good luck :)
+DarkoAqua Naw, it's not the Nanokey from Korg.
It's called Acorn Masterkey and it's a 61 key keyboard.
I have not seen any other comments going on about the action of this Masterkey keyboard action, but it is GARBAGE, and I really mean GARBAGE.
Well, no, I don't think that this method will be appropriate for a piano keyboard in that case. You see, it is a completely different mechanism inside it (springs... cheap). So, you need something better, check M-Audio midi keayboard models, they are generally great and affordable. Behringer is also OK for the money, if you need something cheap.
the word hack is hyper overrated these days
this would be a mod
Any suggestions how to remove the screws at 2:05? Mine will not budge.
Hi, watch some videos how to unscrew damaged or stripped screws for ideas :-)
You can also combine strong magnet or pliers.
Please watch carefully entire vid... answer is already there ;-)
sorry, didn't saw the video till the end. thanx for the tutorial!
does this work on the nano pad one ?
No, different design.
I tried your amazing mod but can't make it working :( i only hve transparent tape (i have brown and black tape too) same result. i put two layers on it and the responsive is still awful. any tips, about something i maybe missed ?
Unfortunately, there's the limit in how many layers you can stack, and tape thickness and elasticity plays crucial role, because too thick will make pads stuck. So, if you still find it unusable, I can only suggest you to go and try some more expensive controllers, or Akai series. The price of nanopad tells you all :-)
abolutly ! i took the decision to send back the Pad and wait to find a Steinberg CMC PD (Pad version). I need it to use as keyoard shorcut (under windows) and Control change/keyswitch to change articulation for orchestral library. anyway, unfortunatly, the nanopad can't send fixed note different for each pad. (for example i need to send a CC32 at value=20 and CC32 at value=40. it can be fixed with bome midi translator, but it will not fix the pad velocity issue,
i have hands issues so i must now only use crappy action controleur very light (i was an ex pro pianist,i'm using a real piano as a master keyboard controller and had a Motif 8 as well), can't use them anymore because of the pain, so having pain just by typing hard on some pads is a NO NO.
Thanks anyway for your help ! do you have any suggestion for something like the nanopoad that i can use for that, i need something small, (the steinberd CMC series are very hard to find).
temporary i'll use my nanokey2 (work better than the nanopad lol) to send CC change/keyswitch until i find an another soution. yes, we have what we have for the price, completly right ;), but what is disturbing is pad 1, 5 and 6 are working ok, but all the other pads are not... i come from an old time (lol) where Korg was doing rock solid gear (Wavestation, M1, etc...). the nano series is a really great idea, but doig it a bit better by adding some $$ to the price would have been a better idea than making things cr*p.
More disturbing lol, the pads are working ok if we hit them on the border, but not on the center of them.
I don't have experience with pad models from last couple of years, so can't really recommend anything. From the looks, Steinberg CMC-PD looks nice and might be just what you need. I ended up with nanopad2 by chance, found a good deal I couldn't miss, but what I really wanted was padControl, which was a more serious and expensive model. I suggest that you pay a visit to couple of local stores and give some trials to get an idea about their pads sensitivity and feel. About individual pads settings, if recall right, there were settings for CC and program numbers, but not sure about fixed velocity and values (?). Sorry about your condition and that I cannot help more.
No problem thank you for the answer. i'm checking the akai MPD series, not bad ! i must check if they can send a fixed CC value ! yes, the CMC are amazing ! i have 2 CMC FD (they are tactil fader for mix console), one CH. it's old discontinued gear, because it's only working with cubase, but it's
top , well made, and solid ! Take Care ! if you can, you can check my channel to see what i can do with a Piano and a optical Midi system with it.
How do you change the velocity?
By tapping with different speed/intensity. Also you can set fixed values in Korg software if you want.
@@DarkoAqua thanks for the vid it helped a lot. It's still not perfect but it feels better than before playing drums
really good
Any idea for the xy pad. I think it's hard and imprecise...
I believe that's possible only in software. Depends on your target and DAW, see if there is any option to smooth-out changes.
Thanks a lot. I'll try this.
interesting to see the guts of this...
100roberthenry Actually, earlier generation was more complex and interesting inside (not sure about performance though). This version is much simpler, kind of disappointing really :)
well done man, beautiful video, I just want to fix a button that seems to be stucked, but will try this mod too
what ru making bro
ohhhh the tape is to give you wider velocity range
Good
crazy
did you really need to show us taking out all the screws?? jebus...
faultandfracture I have added annotations at appropriate places in the vid so now anyone can skip :)
+Shekar Reddy Agree, however,I am still shy to record myself on YT :o)
The diagram was wrong
Hi pikherz,
what particular diagram is wrong?
As far as I can say all the diagrams are correct.
DarkoAqua The second one. If it was right it would mean you wouldn't get any sound unless you hit the pad really hard. In this case your mod would make it worse.
pikherz The diagrams are for illustration purposes only, there aren't precise values on any axis. However, depending on the thickness of the tape you choose, you can make a huge difference, so the charts in those cases will not be too much off, even relatively speaking. Regards.
DarkoAqua I don't mean that they slightly off. Its simply the wrong way around. The graph should start high on the y-axis at x=0 and exponentially (or linearly if you want) go up to the top right corner.
That would mean that factory Korg NanoPad2 triggers notes (generates note+velocity signal) on y-axis even with 0 force applied (x-axis), which is not correct and does not make any sense.
However, if you look throughout the entire video, you will see that I already included the exact chart you describe -- when I used a very thick tape (causing 'stucked' pads and random triggering).
looks like masking tape.
There's a reason for that.
right; the first thing you should do with this electronics product it take a screw driver to it and start messing with its innards -- and fuck everything up no thanks.
Of course, if you aren't confident enough with electronics that's best. On the other hand, this is a really simple gadget, only tricky part that can break is a flat cable, so you have to be careful.
thanks for your reply didn't mean to sound snarky. lol. I have a terrible record when it comes to electronics and screwdrivers, so I left it alone. That said, this product definitely needs some revision, cause it sucks....velocity is all off and it's cheap and flimsy.