Front Idler Replacement on the Takeuchi TL130 // E127
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- In this episode we replace the worn front idlers on our Takeuchi TL130 track loader. The entire track adjustment assembly is removed and explained. We also discuss the machine's rubber tracks that are in need of being replaced as well.
I think we look at steel as a very tough element. Yet we encounter many instances of 'steel' wearing out from use. Good eye, Jon,
John, thanks for being a great teacher and showing how to replace the front idler. You then removed the parts and showed us how they operate when placed back inside the machine. Side note... your daughter was walking behind you and reached down at 28 min and picked up the large stick from the road way and tossed it aside out of the way. She did this all on her own because she saw something that needed to be corrected and did it without instruction from you or Meg. You folks are an inspirational family. Blessing to you folks.
That tool sure looks handy. I better get 2 so I always have a backup.
You can always weld up the worn area and then grind it back flat. Just a comment, not a criticism, but a Jon and Meg video with no Meg, just isn't the same, No offense Jon you're still the bomb, but you're no Meg! LOL
Yep, lay some beads of weld in there and grind it down. Same thing on the sliding part of the idler. And if the oil seals are leaking on the idler but the bearing is still Ok, just take the oil plug out and put a grease fitting in it. Keep it greased.
Just pad weld that bottom frame and grind it back to flat. That area is going to wear. Good work keeping your equipment repaired.
Dont lift the machin so hi, when taking the tracks off, when the bottom traks are hanging in the air, it will work against you..
thanks fore showing us so much, just weld the edge on the frame and grind it..
Great vid my friend! I am in VA and have to order tracks for my TL130. 2 of the teeth popped out of the track but I was able to drill holes and bolt them back on and keep on going.
Great job John I’m just like you I find a way to figure out everything I need instead of paying somebody else to figure it out for me. Great job I hope you and Megan and the girls have a great memorial day
Use the forks on your Tractor to remove and refit the tracks on the skid loader, it will save your back and shoulders! Also, regarding the wear on the frame, you have a Welding Machine and an Angle Grinder, measure carefully what gap you require, build the metal up a little too much with beads of weld, and grind down to the correct dimension. Access with the grinder is your most challenging part.
I was also going to recommend welding up the guides and grinding them to fit. Also it looks like you may be able to rotate your front idler when the wear is at the bottom. Rotate it 180 degrees if possible. Keep up the great videos.
I am really getting good info from your channel. I would like your names so I wii be able to talk directly to each member in comments. Thanks for being a great learning channel.
Glad to hear it, Ken. I'm Jon and my wife is Meg.
Great job on replacement and teaching. Learned something new again. Loved it. As for tracks... if it were me, i would get ahold of andrew camarata and see what he thinks the better/best track would be. He is just as rough if not more than you and has bought plenty of rubber tacks for his machines.
Greetings from the BIG SKY. I applaud your reluctant decision to replace that joint.
still the greatest of all the vlogs on living in the remote, fan from the firsth time ! greetz from the netherlands, europe.
Thank you! 🇳🇱🇺🇲
You asked for opinions on grease on the rails. My experience with other mechanical situations would suggest that wouldn't be a good idea. If you have ever used valve lapping compound you probably already know it is just grease with an abrasive powder in it. I would think you would have better longivity out of using a small pressure washer on the area periodically. Harbor freight used to have a small electric one for not too much $$. IF you feel that a lube is benificial, I would suggest a dry one like graphite or something of that nature.
At 20:35 did I see a crack in the upper part of the frame? Just after you pointed out the grease window. Thanks for taking the time to show this stuff.
yeah, on the inner track? I see that too.
You might think about washing all the mud and dirt off your machines more often. You might not be so surprised next time. 👍👍👍🇨🇱👍
To bad you couldn’t build that area up with a couple beads of weld then grind it smooth to tighten the whole assembly, I’m kinda surprised there’s no bushings of some sort in there, the company could definitely improve on that design, I have a bobcat I’ve had for 20 years and it’s on tires I bought the original chains and I can work side by side against tracks and do as good or better, I’m a logger and actually load my kenworth with it, Granted I have to build a ramp but I do things most folks freak about.. Good luck John I love watching the progress
Love seeing what you guys are up to. I was so excited to get off of work and see a new video :)
Bridgestone tracks is What you want
Thanks for getting angles that aren’t on most videos.
Just had another issue with my TL140 but it was caused by the previous owner crappy repair.
On my unit and most equipment… aftermarket parts are usually the cause of many issues.
You still using the same guy at Takeuchi? I think you said his name was Jason in your joystick replacement video. I need to order those control valve spools to fix the wandering curl on my bucket.
Those rails are wear items . a good welder can cut then out and replace them. yes its a job that can be done. And I would suggest using a better grade steal . Do not grease. If you do happen to replace the rails have the welder leave space for replaceable wear plates that can be bolted on.
You seem to only need to do the lower guides, as the uppers had no noticable wear.
John, I wanted to suggest that you try Van- Sickle E-Z Slide graphite coating on both the Skid-steer and the Ricky, maybe even parts of your mill. Obviously it would aid in movement and also prevent corrosion. Farmers use it on their machines. It's great for under mower decks too,. It comes in buckets and also spray-rattle cans. Maybe not cheap but wll worth it I'd think for preservation and function.😀👌👍👊💪🤙Bless y'all in your continuing efforts!
You could start a parallel channel just featuring your repairing and replacing projects...what house????
Then it would turn into Diesel Creek or Salvage Workshop. The mountain would be littered with rusty old equipment.
At 6:37 is not necessary to reverse top and bottom side of each front wheel in a certain periodicity ? If there is a the same symmetry for sure. At 11:06 it seems to clean this area will give better view if there is any leakage.
gotta love that va red 😂 thx for another great video y'all have a great memorial day weekend
Nice work John, great info too!
I agree with Dan Mooney’s thoughts but even with a high carbon rod, the weld heat would reduce the overall hardness.
As far as lubricating the slides I’d think that silicone or graphite might help. Anything dry that won’t trap dirt.
Enjoy your videos!
Good job John 😊
Greetings from the BIG SKY. Stuff always breaks. Bummer.
John, After going in detail regarding the wear on the front right idler bearing surfaces, I have to say, I would have thought using some of the discarded grease wouldn't have done any harm before the replacement idler was fitted. Maybe, a heads up for the next time remedial action or idler replacement becomes necessary......Regards Robin....
👍
John just put some weld in the worn area and grind it smooth, should last for years .
Love the ND Tina shirt! Do you think it's time to get the DeWalt cordless grease gun? I don't think you would regret it at all with all that you do.
I'm afraid I'd break it!
I would go back to the dealer and ask them what they recommend for aftermarket parts. Then look up reviews of that.
A bronze wear plate would make replacement much easier. The bolster plate could have been made thicker to accommodate the difference in the bronze wear plate.
Good morning and thank you for a very informative video! Quick question before I tear into mine, when I grease up the one tensioner the yoke seems to push through the idler and doesn’t move the whole assembly. Any thoughts? Thanks!
The yolk is moving, but not the front idler? That's really odd being that they are bolted together. Do you have the same machine as mine? I can email you the parts manual if you don't have it and it shows a nice explosion model of the entire track adjuster assembly which might help you. Once you get the track off, it's very easy for the whole assembly to slide out for you to inspect what's going on. In your case, you could be missing hardware at the end of your rod or have a break between the yolk and the idler. Maybe a leaky cylinder or grease fitting? Let me know if you want that manual or send pictures to walnutsandwineberries@gmail.com - I'll see if I can help.
Where are you guys?
I'm certainly no expert, but I sub to a few machinery maintenance and repair channels. One thing I've picked up on is when it comes to replacing tracks, buying cheap is a false economy, better too "bite the bullet" and get a quality brand set.
Considering all the work you have ahead. It may not be as painful on the wallet as it seems.
True words here.
Can bearings be replaced in idler without changing assembly?
Yes, with a big press. There are many seals and o-rings as well. In my case, the outer metal seemed pretty worn so I just bought a new set.
No grease, it will attract dirt and cause wear faster. Also you could (or maybe pay a welder)..., to do a surface weld and grind it flat. (best to ask a real welder if that's a good idea or not before trying...
JUST THAT EASY!!!😂
what to buy metal passports
Can i get free shipping on that back scratcher..?🤣👍👍💚
That noise is bent
I'd be wearing a glove doing that crap all day. Somewhat solid grease is nasty stuff. Dirt trap to grease there. Knowing the stamina of a tool is good knowledge when you have a task for it pending.