Saab 9-3: Diagnosing a Misfire
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
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My mechanic who specializes on SAABS said to use nothing but AC DELCO coil packs. i replace mine on my own, and it runs really well now. saved myself a ton of money.
A note on anti-seize grease: it's not needed on NGK! They have a special coating on the plug. Per NGK: "Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."
Btw, great videos!
More from NGK website: "NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition."
Thanks for the tip!
I came here to say that too
And anti seize acts as a lubricant so if you torque to spec (which is based on dry interface) this ends up increasing the applied torque.
I’ve given up on mine after doing plugs and coils, taking it to the shop cause they can do the injectors if it needs it I’m not trying to dig that deep. Also I don’t have a compression tester. 07 9-3 165,000 miles. They are awesome cars though. I’m glad you give them recognition they deserve.
Thank you. I hope you get that sorted out!
Nice that you really do make it look simple for other Shade-Tree Mechanics. Great job!
Thanks! haha
2 new Coils and 4 double iridiums, gapped properly, solved misfire issues on the 05 ARC 9-3 Vert since I bought it in 2014 used. Rub a dab of Spark plug anti-seize on the plug threads before install, and some dielectric grease on the insulator and contact tip before seating the coils. Makes it easier to remove plugs next time, but be careful not to overtorque them, since the grease make it much easier to spin and tighten them up. Once the miss gets really bad, it should show up in the CEL codes.
A slightly expensive way is to buy a new coil and only use it to test a cylinder for misfire. If the miss is pretty steady and likely just one Cylinder, move the known good
unit to the next cylinder and go test drive it again. Once you find no more miss, put one of the used ones in there. If the problem stays resolved. The used one is good and problem is solved.
Turbo boost conditions make good spark critical, so a good set for stock or stage 1 might not work on Stage 2 or 3. Chat sites guys should have good advice.
Good luck!
Good tips! Thank you
Actually a tech2 would help you a lot since you can read misfires per cylinder in the "read values" menu.
Let's say the norm is:
Cyl1: 5
Cyl2: 50
Cyl3: 82
Cyl4: 15
Then change the coils from cyl 1 and 3 around, reset misfire counter and re-run. If the misfires moved with the coil, then it's the coil. If it's the same tendencies of cyl 3 misfiring the most still, then move spark plugs around like you did with coils. If that doesn't help, move the injectors in the same matter in case one or a few is bad.
If that doesn't help either, a proper compression test is needed. Also you could try to "throw" a new ionization module on it and hope it fixes it.
good idea, thanks Richard
Was getting juddering under hard acceleration on my remapped 93. Replaced the coil packs. Now it's purring like a walrus. I didn't change the spark plugs because they were only replaced a couple of months ago when I serviced the car. Easy job.
£160 for new coils from Neo Brothers in the UK.
Four years ago on our 2007 9-3 2.0T, got a check engine light and a noticeable shutter when driving at highway merge speeds. I ran a scan with my BlueDriver OBD2 reader and got a P1312 "Ignition Coil "B" Primary/Secondary Circuit" code. Since I wasn't sure how long the spark plugs had been in, I decided to replace those, and put in a set of NGK PFR6T-10G's, but the issue persisted. So I got on eBay thinking I could save a buck, and ordered a used OEM yellow top, likely salvage yard pull, for $12 plus fairly cheap shipping, well I definitely got what I paid for because after installing it there was no change. So I ordered a new OEM black top, put it in cylinder 2 since I assumed "B" was #2, and this totally fixed the issue. Fast forward 4 years, and now have a new P1312 "Ignition Coil "B" Primary/Secondary Circuit" code, that's right, same cylinder! So having since bought a backup new OEM black top, I put it in to see if that last new one may have prematurely failed, and no change. So next step, bought a new Ionization Module with fingers crossed, nope, no change. So now I'm wondering if these 4 year old spark plugs are the problem, seems a bit quick, but it's possible since there's probably around 35K-40K on them. Anyway, will be swapping those out in the next couple days. I'll post a follow up.
Follow up, new spark plugs didn't fix the issue, still getting P1312 "Ignition Coil "B" Primary/Secondary Circuit" code. Used an endoscope to look inside the cylinders to see the condition of the valves, and they didn't look too bad for 197K miles. So now moving on to replacing fuel injectors with some remans. Fingers crossed.
@@Celtic-Texanany update. Having same issue with mine
Did you end up replacing the fuel injectors?
Just a little extra input if having a rough idle at cold start. Great videos though. I am a two time Saab 9-3 owner. 2006 1.8t that I am trying to sell now in Sweden (only major problem is the steering wheel lock cycles on every so often but mechanically a great car. My newer Saab is a 2009 2.0 T xwd vector. Has issues at the cold start with hard time turning over properly and rough idle for 30-40 sec. Once warmed up, no issues starting. I read that 2007-2011 had issues with the exhaust valves in the header, made of poor/weak material, thereby wearing so they don't seal properly and lose compression while sitting. Performed a compression check and all cylinders hold compression, so that was not the issue. Will be trying the coil packs and plugs next. As you said, no codes or engine light. I would suggest anyone with the same issue on cold start, begin with the compression check. You can always change out your plugs and coil packs while you have them out for the compression test.
yeah it's probably those valves starting to go bad. common issue on 07-09
My Saab 9-3 from 2007 has quite a high rpm at cold start, around 1500rpm then after about 30 seconds it goes down to around 800rpm
@@Joel..01 2011 9-3 here
Thank you for what you do for the Saab community!!
Here's a variation on the theme:
2008 9-3 4 cyl turbo
1. From cold start, drive about 3 miles at about 35-40 MPH.
2. Feel some misfire - then engine quits after another ½ mile - no code
3. Can't restart
4. Wait 2 hours, restart car successfully
5. Drive another ~1 mile, engine misfires at stop light (doesn't quit) and CEL lights up, flashing and then steady
6. Complete drive about 3 miles, park car in driveway
7. Check CEL with reader (not a Tech2) - get P0300 - random misfire
Seems engine temp related (based on distance traveled) but its not 100% consistent. Had MAF sensor replaced several months ago - fixed immediate problem (another misfire) but then. this issue cropped up. Targeting the Crankshaft Position Sensor this time after some advice, but not sure after viewing your misfire video.
Any thoughts?
id check plugs and coils if you haven't already!
I swap coils so much on my 05 Arc that I keep the coil cover off, also gets rid of the heat trap and allow air flow over, coils last a lot longer. Also have a hefty box of used coils in the trunk.
Interesting idea 🤔
Seems like heat dissipation was an afterthought on these cars. The PCM's location is shit too.
Edit: I take that back. The PCM location is still shit but the hood is made out of aluminum which definitely dissipates heat much more rapidly than steel.
if you have cover of, water and shit create arc on the outside spark plug and inside coil
@@tomeks.f.8057 shouldn't really get water or crap in that position
If everything is tight and you have a clean engine bay.
Besides the coils are solid state and insulated.
Very useful ! My 2.0 aero starting juddering between 60 and 70 mph
Going for Tec 2 on Tuesday
Also putting some fuel cleaner through !
nice!
cured ! new saab black coils and new plugs - had balance shaft , timing chain and whilst out water pump
very nice now 👍 plugs and coils did not show on Tech 2 surprisingly ?
@@guitarlover302 did you have a rough then smooth idle that repeated itself, kinda jerky in drive at a stop? Also my chain would be quite then tick like a guide is broken or something but while driving no issues
Should use dielectric grease on the coil packs all helps reliability 💪😎
Goodnidea!
@@AutoAutopsy i don't know if i missing some video but you solve dat problem?,because i has something similar.
I got it too p0300
I still have yellow top coils on my 03 9-3 they haven’t failed yet
Those need to go in a museum of sorts
Auto Autopsy The museum of shit😂
So did it end up being the spark plugs or were the coils bad?
I've had issues with misfire a few times on my 9-3. One time it was actually valve cover gasket that was bad, so there was oil leak within the spark plugs and the car was impossible to drive. Also if you drive under boost with the engine misfiring for a period of time you should get an engine code eventually, though it probably isnt the best thing to do.
Yeah, which is why I don’t drive it hard very often, haha
I also had a bad valve cover gasket, but it still ran fine, aside from idling weird on startup :think: although i guess that may not have been the whole issue seeing as it's apparently come back
Hah I love finding comments of people dealing with the same issues years ago.
Mitsubishi (which are Saab OEM) coil packs are amazing! Coil packs are good for about 150K.
Hey, i think no matter what coil packs you are using, yellow or black, they are the same packs with no change but the color. Why people say that black ones are better because basically they are "newer". I have my 2.0T Aero with yellow ones, and had zero problem. Ofc 220k km on the clock only.
AbsoluteHybrid sorry but not the case with a tube. The yellow coils can handle the heavier load.
update: everything was sweet after the cps replacement..for two days lol
because my fuel pump took a dump while i was going near 80mph on the freeway, at night.
Confirmed failure at 147000 miles, no oem pumps anywhere,
got a delphi with lifetime warranty on the way.
Had to wait after 4th of the july weekend to have it shipped! Will report back haha
Nice 👍🏼
Miss fire on my 2004 9-3 turned out to be ignition coil. I pulled code and it pointed to cylinder#2. I swapped with #4 then #4 miss fired. This happened right after I put new plugs in so it had to be the coil. Note you need to get Saab OEM coils because the first set of "new" off brand coils made it worse. I then bought a used OEM black coil which worked perfectly.
yeah, never buy off brand coils :(
Check your DIC. It's in gron of the air pump. Swap it out. It could be bad.
FCP has it for $40.00
DIC = coil pack equivalent on any non OG 9-3 or 9-5
@@AutoAutopsy DIC = Direct Ignition Cassette.
For non oG 9-3 or 9-5.
It controls ignition and spark on the coils.
My 2004 9-3 does have the yellow top coil packs. I'm suprised that they have lasted 265.000 km (whatever that is in miles) and still going strong. I should grab a few spare ones so that I'm prepared because they will probably fail at any time.
I got them as well, had zero problems with them so far, I guess we're lucky lol
Wow!
Another way you can also find out if your coil packs are bad on your SOB which I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo manual if the coil pack has a little bubble in it like a little hump it's a sign that it's a bad coil pack hope that helps
Original yellow top coils failed today (Actually one of them only failed, but replacing all). Never replaced before. I had it tuned to stage1 in 2013. It's one of the very early 9-3 SportSedans, 03 model year but actually registered in 2002. so the coil lasted 19 years!
wow, that's super impressive haha
Swapping all the coil packs at one time means you'll never know which one is bad. Plus you don't know the condition of the replacement coil packs. One of them might be bad. To many changes at one time.
That’s quite obvious, yes. As I stated, this video was made to show the process of fixing and diagnosing a misfire
I have a 08 9-3 2.0t that had missfires, black coils. Bought four old yellow from the junkyard and the missfires was gone. That car had over 300.000 km on it (-04 or -05) I also took that cars spark plugs just for testing (PFR6D10G) mine had (BKR7ESC-11)
I'm surprised my yellow tops haven't blown either. Gonna run em until they pop. Black tops on standby in my box-o-parts.
wow! lol
I've got those terrible yellow top coil packs. Luckily haven't had trouble with a misfire (yet). Gotta order a set of black top coils!!
If they’re not bad yet, I’d wait until they fail haha!
Bro if it were not for you, I think my 93 would be a landscape Art. Thanks for the videos!
so thats why you were collecting those coil packs...
My yellow coils have 138k miles on them and are still going strong. Grant it I changed the spark plugs every 25-30k miles. Not sure if that helped or does anything
nice
My brother in law had a 2001 9-5 with the 2.5 had that big long piece for coils i think they call it the cassete or something like that anyway had many issues with the ignition one day i got tired of the complainig and took 2 hours no money or parts swapping just some 4 gauge wire i had layin around and permanetly fixed the problem great cars best abs system very safe better cars than most but they are misunderstood
It took two hours two swap the DIC..?
@@AutoAutopsy no i didnt swap anything i figured out why the pos wasnt working right i modified and permanetly fixed
Tx. my car is a subaru baja (not turbo) but you have helped me figure out possible causes of a recent misfire. Fortunately I have a good mechanic as well. enjoy your channel. long time ago I owned a 96 V4. Maybe one day I own a sonnet :)
What is the fun in owning a poem?
@@browserrr1 HaHa
It is much better owning a Sonett (which is the way the name of the little car is written).
No way! That’s pretty neat. Love vintage saabs
Halfway through yr misfire video and it prompted me to ask a couple of question. About a month ago my son bought a 9.3 2.0T, made in 1999. The body is good, it's a cabrio and has a few problems with waterproofing but we'll handle that however, after a couple of weeks, it started to misfire. I don't have a Tech 2 but it also supports an OBD2 which reported a misfuire in cylinder 3. Swapped a couple of plugs and came to the conclusion that the Ignition discharge module was the problem. $250 later and it's running sweet again but, ever since we've had the car there has been a popping sound from the engine bay, you ca here it inside the car but not quite as easily under the hood. It doesn't speed up or slow down with engine revs or speed and can be eard at idle. The only warning we get from time to time is the vapour recovery system and I was wondering if there is any kind of pump associated with that. I looked in my manual and nothing stands out. There seems to be no consequences othr than the noise. Any clues ??
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by popping, especially considering its not related to RPM. I would try posting this in a facebook group
@@AutoAutopsy It originally sounded like a popping noise and that's why I started looking for pumps and air related stuff. I've been listening intently and I now beleive it does relate to engine speed but more like i stroke from one cylinder in a 4 cycle process. While typing this I'm thinking head gasket leak on compresson stroke and yet, the engine runs smoothly, yet I don't think anything is getting into the cooling system, maybe a cracked head elsewhere, now that I think about it, a quieter version of taking a plug out. Sounds liek a compression check is in order
An easy way to check that it’s your coil packs is swap them and see if the cylinder changes if you know which cylinder it is
Yes, but if you have a tech2 it can just tell you misfire counts by cylinder which is a bit easier!
I watched your ECU video after receiving a P0606 code, and installed a new ECU with the same heat dissipation kit you mentioned. Great video and I thank you for that (since it looks like I am now my own mechanic for this Saab). Took the car for a few test drives, and yesterday limped home with a P0300 code. Which has led me to this video! I see a bunch of these coil packs on the web. So are all of these coil packs the same? Or can you point me to a specific type or kind of coil pack brand/model? This is a 2008 9-3 2.0t.
Had the described. Did new NGK Iridium IXs. Made it worse. Finally threw a P0304 code for #4. Guess it’s time for a new coil?
What was the outcome on your misfire ?
how do i shut off my day head lights ? they are constantly burning out bulbs from being on during the day.
It needs to be programmed with a tech2. If you happen to be in AZ, i can do it for you. Feel free to email me or DM me on instagram (see description box for that info)
@@AutoAutopsy tech2 ? I live in Pa
The tech II actually might tell you a misfire count but the misfire value for some odd reason may not trip a fault code
yeah it's weird and a little annoying lol
I have a flashing check engine light but the code is "random/multiple misfire" I also have an o2 sensor code that's been there long before the misfire. Could it be the o2 sensor? It JUST got new coil packs and plugs when it had a different misfire that only happened on acceleration. This is different and lasts for maybe 30 secs with the check engine flashing the whole time and it happens randomly while driving or randomly while idling.
Thanks for the video!
I am searching for a solution to my 2011 9-3x occasionally it will struggle when starting and black smoke will come out of the exhaust. Its not every time, but it flashed the check engine light for a few seconds after struggling to start but if I press the gas pedal it always evens out.
In conclusion I don't want to leave a issue unresolved and if it is a sinple fix i would like to just take care of it , and not have to deal with a mechanic shop that knows less than myself about the car.
See if an obd2 scanner will pick up any stored codes. If it’s struggling to idle, you could have a vacuum leak.
@@AutoAutopsy Appreciate the advice
Mine '04 Arc convertible has a mismatch of coils...1 and 4 are black tops, 2 and 3 are yellow tops. So far, so good.
I bought my car with a severe misfire from a guy who was going to send it to the junkyard. I figured it was the yellow top coil issue, but when I got it towed home I found that the #1 plug had worked itself so loose that it had stripped out the threads in the head. Had to Heli-Coil it, but it has run fine ever since.
The car is garaged 2/3rds of the year and I re-torque the spark plugs every season. They still work themselves loose, and when they do it makes a ticking sound that sounds like a valve lifter.
If you notice a ticking sound like this, it is probably loose plugs.
wow nice; glad you saved it. it's a shame people will junk a car over such minor things smh
Ionization Module - def check this part out, can def be the culprit!
for sure
Dwight West I have 04 9-3 aero with random misfire only at idle and cel blinking but when in motion car doesn’t misfire as the cel stop blinking and feels just as it should does this sound about right? Codes are p0300 p2138 p2122 p0101 took it to auto zone paper they gave me said ignition control module but the guy said it is the computer.. my question is which one is it or both?
@@sulkmahidonkeydek3424 first get high quality NGK spark plugs..replace those first. If that doesn't fix it..buy an OEM coil pack and try to diagnose which of the 4 are misfiring.
Dwight West ngk spark plugs were installed less than 7 thousand miles ago, I don’t believe a bad pack will cause random misfire I’m leaning towards bad icm or computer because the car runs fine when in motion and when cold idles fine until the vehicle warms up but the pedal sensor is not working properly which is why I’m questioning the computer
Auto Autopsy if it was a bad coil pack it should misfire even with the car in motion or on cold start right
The measuring the spark plug gap thingamy.....its a feeler guage
This video helped me out a lot, thanks man!
Glad it helped!
Should replace plugs same time as coil packs that way you get the full benefits.
you can, yes.
hazard lights come on when motor is not running and will not go off unless battery is disconnected ?
I’m not sure. Try disconnecting ecu and battery for a few minutes to reset everything
Did you sort this out in the end? This very same problem began after a cold snap here in the UK about 2 weeks ago. Now I have, what I believe to be, an intermittent misfire with no engine management light and no smoke; some days I get a smooth run, bust most days the engine sounds noisy and rumbles. Some loss in MPG, but idle is just about OK; power is also down a little, but not too bad. I have the yellow tops and sparks were changed only 4,000 miles ago. Not sure whether to by a new set of sparks and/or coil packs as I'd like to find out how to use a voltmeter on the coil packs first without electrocuting myself.
Spark plugs!
I have a BSR stage 1 tune on my arc and each and every time I’ve had misfires it’s been a bad coil. I use Carista ($20 on Amazon) to read and clear codes to figure out which cylinder and one by one all my yellows have been replaced with black tops. You might want to gap plugs to the low side of spec- I don’t recall gapping that small.
With his being a stage 3 he should always gap to what the tuner recommends which is normally lower spec and cooler running plugs.
Unless it starts running “worse” as he said it was.
I did it and now my car doesn’t turn it on
I never get misfire under load. But man when she is cold starting. Holy crap. I have replaced coil # 4 Threw code for cyl 4 again so I guess I’m doin plugs tomorrow
yeah, probably would have started with plugs since its cheaper but i hope that fixes your problem
Auto Autopsy she is on point now
@@JoesGoldenGarage Can you please share the link for the coils ?
Can a bad vacuum pump cause a p0300
I have this exact model. I am getting a flashing check engine light but only during the turbo ecceleration,but then it dissappears when i slow down..what is also interesting,i just changed my spark plugs before this happened...hmmm
Then you most likely gapped your spark plugs improperly or bought the wrong ones
You need to have some videos for '06 saab 9-3 2.0 turbo manual tranny
This video and 90% of my Saab videos apply to that car..
Helped alot!!! Thanks
happy to help :)
for me it was bad PCV valve and ionization module, was getting misfire on cylinder 1&2 and after I swapped the coils the misfire was back on cylinder 1&2 because cylinder 2 will usually suck the oil from bad PCV valve
Also had that replaced a couple years back!
then most likely it's a bad PCV valve, that sucks oil into cylinder 1&2 and causes the car to misfire (shutter) under load. A bad PCV value will also not give you any engine codes.
Map sensor cleaning made my car run new oil from turbo through off air
no bueno
So he's using the double platinum or the iridium sparks plugs I guess...
I use NGK BCPR7ES-11...what you're supposed to use if you tune these.
Hey with your upgrades did you upgrade gas pump part inside pump and upgrade injectors or at least clean them??
Maybe you not getting enough gas that high?
Using right gas? Clean map sensor and the ond on charge air. Those leak too.. I'm making smoke machine to test mine shortly. Also I added this engine cleaner before last oil change and let set idle for fifteen minutes. Then drain oil and checked it. The I use 0w 40 mobile one. That seemed to help.
I did compression test to why not?
If all ypu cylinders are not same maybe you have something going on.
.ime came back cold 165 all cylinder with 23500 on it
It matched spec on wis to new engine
Okay engine ypu figured out. But I'd look there
it's almost always plugs and coils! A bad injector could cause it too though
I get a flashing CEL after misfire. But goes away immediately after. Just got new plugs and regapped them. I’m assuming either coil packs or fuel injectors as you mentioned
Very high chance it’ll coil packs!
Good morning, my diagnostic called Cam shaft position sensor, replaced. Then Turbo pressure relief valve, replaced that. lots of smoke and engine cut off when stopped and idling. Smoke to mee points to no fire on the plug? either plugs or coli packs. Does that sound correct?
Bill Jowers
im assuming you have a check engine light. start with the codes from that
2:07 I dont have a tube coming out of my airbox in the front like yours? I had a P0135 code, loosened my air box and it went away, then a P1312 code popped up, after a small ride, so I changed the plugs injectors, then 2 P0300 codes popped up? Ive worked on all my Saabs, but they have all been the 900S t engine and a 99 Viggen, maybe I should turn this over to a mechanic,i should have bought a 03 lol
cyc 3 the spark plug had oil, and was the original..
Probably is coils if you haven’t changed those. But I can’t tell for sure
I replaced the injector and the car would not run, I put the old ones back one by one. It finally started running rough with one of the old injectors. It is missing so I pulled the coil connector and one of did not change the rough running. Replace the spark plug, no fix. switched coil pack and still no fix? any ideas?
Thank you,
Bill
sounds like you had error codes that should probably be scanned
Anyone on here ever get the random misfire p0300 with p1682 codes? I get the same misfire on full boost I figured ignition issues but then the p1682 code throws me off for the main relay not getting power swapped with my other 9-3 no change was leaning towards a bad ionization module any tips? Tia
Greetings from Sweden bro!
What was ur problem?
I hade the same problem on low boost! On low RPM car became completely off.
It’s plugs or coils most likely, as stated in the video!
can you tell me what piece is at 7:36 on the air filter, I have a 2005 ARC and there is nothing there?
SAI. only on 2003 models
Those spark plugs looks a bit oily maybe your valve cover gasket is bad because oil can get down the spark plug holes and cause misfires.
Thanks for the tip. I will have to look into it
That might be my issue! I have a slights oil leak via valve cover and ever since I've been getting a misfire and the boost isn't going into the red. so ill shoot my shot with the valve cover gasket!
Completely different car, I know, but I seem to have the same issue out of my 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass (not turbocharged of course) and I don't know why it's doing it because the spark plugs are new, the wires are new, and my coil packs are new. It only happens between 2nd and 3rd gear so I thought it was a transmission issue. I know the car has a pretty bad vacuum leak that I will be dealing with soon. If that doesn't help, I'm just lost.
Yeah i'd definitely look at that vacuum leak!
Hey man, I have an 2007 V6 which also missfires, first time it started it was the Solenoid valve for the boost charge. changed that and was fine for 6 months, now it's starting to missfire again but this time it's one of the coil packs. Have tried a tech2 but with no luck. New spark plugs also didn't help. So owell. Coil packs it is
:(
I have same thing with turbo solenoid I changed it was good for few weeks now I get p0033 and if I reset it it runs fine. I reset while diving idk either
My 2006 9-3 2.0L manual Saab is stalling out when I pull up to a stop sign or red light... When I stomp. on the gas, car is hesitant. I have. A check engine light p0300. Does this sound like a bad coil....?
probably a vacuum leak; i'd start there
I'm going tru this as we speak... No check engine light. The thing is I'm using a diagnostic torque pro not just that but two other blutooth apps.. only the torque pro is the only one that can detect the misfire in which it was obvious when it happened. I fail the binual smog... Before it was every two years now is every year smogs have to be done. Anyhow so I was reading how other driver have had trouble changing the spark plugs some had some haven't . I got the Denso. They didnt had the NKG.. so I re order NGK the original ones in which il get tomorrow. At the smog they said I fail due to a 02 sensors could be possible I'm not a pro but im learning so correct me. Anyhow ever since I switch the plugs I have notice a change going 👇 in the performance.. I did change the vaccum pump that made an outstanding improvement I'm putting the 02 sensors and the plugs. I algo have the issue of the fuel needle dropping.. also if a misfire can it be due to having low fuel. When I did the #6 I notice oil inside the manifold I was mm the old vaccum pump is responsible for having the oil inside the manifold.. the one that had more oil was cylinder 1..
I would post about this on some saab facebook groups. Start with the NGK plugs and clearing the codes
Just looking for advice... I'm haven't an intermittent issue where when I start the car and it runs rough as hell. I come back awhile later and it cranks and runs no problem. Sometimes it acts like it's flooded. I smell gas strong when it does it... Any suggestions? I drive a 2005 9-3 btw
Have someone with a tech2 look at it; my guess would be a bad injector or something but i really don't know
Did u solved issue? I have exact same issue and after changing sparks blugs it came to the better but problem still is there so its is coil problem after all. Car can handle more boost now but not full throttle. I have ethanol and stage 1 tune.
Make sure you’re running the right plug and gap for your tune. Also make sure your coil packs are all OEM
@@AutoAutopsy tanks to the answer. I had "wrong plugs" and I changed them to right one NGK BCPR7ES-11 from these BKR7ESC-11 and weirdest thing these works well until after few months driving. I think backs or some of them is broken.
I have the same saab 9-3. So when I turn on my car it has a rough idle, like shakes in idle or when I break. When I put my pedal down I get the check engine flashing and shaking
if its shaking at idle, you could have a vacuum leak somewhere
Would you be able to send a link where I could get ngk spark plugs for 2003 Saab 93t stage 1 tune I believe it’s suppose to be 1stage cooler spark plug?
NGK BCPR7ES-11. They’re on Amazon
Having problem starting my car..2006 aero 9-3..replaced the abs module with the same numbers form the junkyard bit still same problem ..bypassed it with jumpers in the harness to start the wagon pins 1-13 and 2-13..do you know what else can I do or send it to get it tapir?
that's a much different car than the one in this video; i would post about this on some saab facebook groups
I have a problem with my 2008 Saab 9-3 , I had misfire and I changed all the spark plugs and the coils and the car won’t run, it start and stop itself .right now cylinder 2 misfire with the trouble code p1344
Then the issue is with cylinder 2. Make sure the coils are OEM and swap cylinder 2 coil with a different cylinder to see if the problem moves
I had studder at red line on the turbo not the RPM, no fault codes engine alarms. I changed the coils, added dielectric grease. Wow shit it's fixed and the torque increased, no studder. Now I did have corrosion inside the coils. Might clean them up and test them out later.
plugs?
So what was the problem in the end? How did u fix it?
It’s almost always coils or plugs
I have 150k on my yellow coil packs. still going strong.
nice
@@AutoAutopsy i jinxed myself replacing mine tomorrow.
With the mods you have on it and the stage 3, what power do you get on you’re saab? Love from a saab lover from Denmark👍🏻
My 2.0 only has an intake and exhaust. It’s probably rated at about 265
@@AutoAutopsy 210hp from new or?? And is it’s just the Auto transmission that is weak or also the manual?👍🏻
hi am having the same issue how did you solved yours i have a 9-3 located in the Caribbean
Coil packs and spark plugs...
Hey ! I have a 2004 Saab 9-3 2.0 and I have code p0300, p0507 and p2187…any idea on what it could be ? 131k
id search google or post on a facebook group
I have P0300 and changed sparkplugs and hats but still going bad
do you have OEM coils? did you change those?
@@AutoAutopsy Yes those are changed and BTR aswell
Which engine does my 06 Saab 9-3 aero have? Wiki says LP9? Which gap should I use?
not the engine in this video lol...2.8 V6 (B284). See this video: czcams.com/video/S8rmH-9CS5A/video.html
Change the damn spark plugs to NGK PFR6T-10G (every 60kkm) or NGK BCPR7ES (every 20kkm) , and then proceed with other ideas
like coils, injectors/filter/fuel pump, ion sensing module, maybe MAF/MAP, 'cold' compression ;) order by most_common_reason, easiest_check . Cheers.
That one sparkplug was broken for sure.
Nice vid!!
Thanks homie
Is this the same for a 2005? 9-3
If it is a 2.0 turbo, yes.
Hey do you have an update video or anything for your fix?
It was coils
@@AutoAutopsy thank you, I went through all the comments lol
Can anyone help ? Mine has a slight judder for about 3 seconds on idle repeating over and over again .. ? I've changed the spark plugs to ngk pfr6t 10 .. where should I look next ? Thanks
vacuum leak possibly
@@AutoAutopsy hey thanks for replying any ideas where I should start or anything. As I'm not as good at car DIY
Very useful. Any idea on ionisation module 55352173 availability, who has?
Esaabparts or secondhanf
Any possible why to see if my computer is good before I take it to gm for a reprogram
I just got the car but not sure if pass owner swapped the ecu n didn’t tech 2 it .... I also have the yellow tops on mine lol
Don't take it to GM, they'll charge way too much. Join a saab club on facebook local to you and find someone with a tech2 tool! THey'll be able to check/do it much cheaper
How many miles on the spark plugs?
~10-15k
@@AutoAutopsy About time to change. When you run Stage 3 it is better to change oil and spark plugs rather sooner than later. I change plugs every oil change, being 10.000 km. The plugs still look ok ehen they come out, but why risk malfunction when they cost so little (at least in my nick of the woods they don't cost much).
What was the fault?
Bad coils
Did you ever get this fixed?
yes. i believe i mentioned i did in the video
I changed my coils and knock sensor , but still getting the check engine light
Plugs? Ionization module could also be something to consider
I've got an '06 9-3. Did you figure out the issue? I'm having misfires.
for me it was a bad ionization module, I made it a rule to first suspect the electronics modules in Saabs before mechanical issues: czcams.com/video/dIrD4bdbk8U/video.html
As I stated, coils or plugs 99% of time!
i bet on a bad PCV valve since he is not getting any engine codes, i had a bad PCV but also a bad ionization module, after replacing both... no problemo.
That particular car takes premium fuel 90 + octane rating
Generally in the US it would be 91 or 93. The US octane ratings are measured differently than Europe, so it’s the same gas.
Hello
Do you have a link to get OEM coils?
esaabparts for US based saabers
I got same problem p0300 . Coil sparks changed and still the same
OEM coils? Could be a vacuum issue
I am not sure but I know one of them is in other color than the other 3 of them and one of them is not 100% adhered maybe that is the problem will try to take them out and change the positions and we will see