Good video. The whole time watching I was hoping the rod wouldn't let go, the whole thing would've pivoted up on the upper arm mount and you'd have to change seats in the church choir! When I was a kid working in a gas station helping one of the older guys(wise ass always in a hurry guy) changing springs and shocks on a early Bonneville the front spring was almost in and he was pushing with a crowbar and it came loose, wrecked his knee and thigh bone. After they took Jim to the hospital one of the other guys(very patient and knowledgeable) taught me to chain the spring to the frame rail to keep it from flying out. I've always used a chain or heavy cargo strap since, never been injured. Compressed springs are like bombs waiting to go off, please stand to the side at least, I enjoy your videos and hope to see many more. Thanks for sharing
You could take a small release bearing and put it between the frame and the big washer and it would work as a thrust bearing to reduce friction. This should make it much easier to turn. Great video and I think it is great to share tips and tricks with other people to make jobs easier. Some people try to keep everything to themselves so other people can't benefit from there idea's but it seems like to me those people never get ahead.
This has been up for years but still useful. One slight change is that I use an inexpensive thrust bearing sandwiched between washers at the top, makes it easy to turn the top nut.
Well fella's I took your advice and reamed the top of the shock tower about 1/16 of an inch so the 3/4 rod would go through. The tool and the video made the job too easy . Can't thank you enough. Please keep up the good work and thank you again . Joe Jenkins
The trick I've done in the past is to compresses the spring then use several lengths of .125 mechanics wire tied around the spring and drop springs in place then assemble suspension and cut wire with extended modified cutters for safety! I guess when you have limited Tools or space you have to think out of the Box!
I know this was posted a few years ago but still helpful. One slight mod I did was to add a thrust washer (bearing) at the top. Makes it easier to turn the top coupling or nut assembly.
Great tip, am sure many have got to the point the spring is compressed and are then unable to retrieve the tool.. and cannot tell you have relieved I am to see Dave not wearing is Daisy dukes.
Another trick is to wrap a chain around the frame attach it to the base of a floor. Jack till the chain is pulling everything together. I also run a treaded rod trough the shock hole and keep running the nut down by hand, just to make sure is something gives the spring is captured. Seems to be the safest way because the control arms already bolted to the frame.
I've done a lot of these a lot over the years ' and the jack is extremely good ideal ; I have them to break or pull threads ; VERY SCARY try to kept hands out away from bottom as much as possible' I learned how to make this tool when I was 17 ;no internet then'' from a picture from old Chilton repair book' bearing is very nice and works great' which mine have. also if working from under car DO NOT use air impacts use longer ratchet and a FLOOR JACK . if ever had one of these break and you still have your hand you know what I saying. great show thank you for putting it own.
Doing this now with a Nova subframe (68 to mid 70s style) Yur so right! its dam hard to keep the frame stationary so you can jack the lower control arm UP in installing the coil springs. I figured in my small garage I had two options.1: sink inserts into the cement ( its very thick) and gear up a way to CHAIN the subframe down to the floor, on the jack stands its on,,or2: Brace the subframe with lumber DOWN from the rafters,,which by the way are also VERY sturdy. I went with idea #2. Fresh 2X6 secured to the rafters and down to the top of the subframe and secured, 2 in front of the control arms , 2 at the back end of the subframe. No time at all to whip up with lag bolts. Jack under the control arm(s) and givver!!!. Surprised myself with how well it worked!!LOL. Anyway just thought I'd share with you how I managed it. Take care in how you secure everything! and do it at your own risk if you decide to. Cheers.
I have a 67 Chevelle that I have been fighting the springs on. I'm excited to go to the shop and try this technique. If this works for me like it did you it wont be long before it back rolling again. Thanks!!
My buddy with a bagged lifted truck put a drop hitch on and I put my frame under the hitch. Worked like a charm until we got drunk and jumped in the truck to go get more beer and didn't discover our mistake until we got to the 7/11. Yep she's low a low rider now.
I've got a '54 Chevy, bare frame with cut front springs (previous idiot owner). Looks like a good way to overcome the lack of weight of the car to help out! Thanks for the video ... Subscribed! :D
Great How to Tip, nice work again. Greets for Doktor Dave too. Thx MRBoatwrights, the Bearing Tip is helpful too, also at other under presure screw working.
I guess that cheap spring compressor tools is not the way to go here. I bought a pair off eBay and now I'm a bit concerned of how well they may work. I looked on Danchuk's site and didn't find this tool you spoke of. Sounds like the better way to go, as I have my 56 frame and just media blasted it. Taking the springs out without a tool was a bit scary. Since they bang the lower control arm to the floor when even on a jack stand. The floor jack just got stomped out of the way by the downward force of the spring! No upper weight to push back. Getting the springs in, I think will need to be a bit more careful. These springs are deadly force for sure. I did decide to buy new springs. Not sure we can trust springs that are 60 years old with rust pits in them. Thanks for great video on this. Lots of cranking but as you said. Great for the arms.
Yes I agree - you'll need a tool to get them back in, especially if they are new! Save yourself the grief and make this tool or buy a good one. You won't regret it I promise!
I see you took the lower control arms off. That my friend would be a pain to ever get mine back in as they are polyurethane and the rubber bushigs have to fit inside frame on both ends of control arm. And the new bushings are like rock. I had to beat the lower control arms into the frame with a sledge hammer. But my 56 has a 68 chevy II front end. So not a 55 through 57. My control arm is different. Where you can suck yours up with long bolts. I would have to have my arms already within reach and then beat them into submission so they go inside the frame to fasten. Ooops. Sorry. EVen though I have a 56 chevy car...It has the front end of a 68 chevy nova. Sometimes I forget which car I'm working on! So lower control arms fit up inside the frame on each end. You have a bar that bolts on, right? I wonder what my solution is. I just tried the spring compression tool from eBay and it was too big and would have to fit inside the upper coil area of frame...And does not go in. This compression tool goes only on the outside of coils. So not working.
So that threaded rod is 3/4”? I made my tool and just need time now to do the work but I’m worried the threaded rod is too big….just looking for confirmation. This is an excellent video!
Its like DeJa vu I am building a 56 convert. CPP upper n lower arms.Repainted frame.Didnt want to scratch anything so I made the same exact tool out of threaded rod.BUT I USED 2 CUPPED AND GREASED WASHERS UNDER TOP NUT THAT TURNS TO REDUCE FRICTION.mADE MY UNIT SHRINKS WHEN I DO THIS.tHE POWER BEHIND THOSE SPRINGS IS AWESOME,AKIN TO GETTING PUCHED BY SUPERMAN,NOT BATMAN HE'S NOT THAT STRONG. THANKS FOR GREAT VIDEO. KEN PASSERO/PASSERO MOTORS.
I actually just today,used the old K&D hooked un-even arm compressor. I left 4 coils between top n bottom arms and fully compressed.POPPED right in with no trouble and NO scratches to my new A arms.
Have never used the 2 piece spring compressors, so just wondering out loud if it's possible to use them, hooked on the control arms and the car frame, to compress the spring and pull the control arms into place at the same time? ;) Might need to design an attachment for the frame end.
I wonder if there is a way to use your tool too compress the spring before it goes through the control arm. Sort of hook up spring and all thread and run it through the shock tower...then tighten. Once tightened, swing lower control arm up so spindle can be put on. Then release the set up. But how would I get the bottom out from under spring. Don't guess it would work that way huh. Unless I could some how attach to the all thread a set up that grabbed the next to last spring coil from bottom. ???? Does that make sense? Maybe a steel plate for bottom of the all-thread that just captures lower spring section. Leaving the last rung of spring to contact bottom of control arm. Sort of work like a inside spring compression tool? Only top would come through like a shock so I can turn it. Like you have done. Maybe first I see if they make a spring removal tool for the 68 chevy since that is what I'm dealing with.
I see what you mean. I did finally get the job done with a loaner spring compression tool from autozone which had a removable shoe type bottom that you could slide out between the springs once released. Also had to remove the all thread bolt and finagle the two small hooks inside the spring to finally get them to come out the side coil as I widened the spring with a crow bar! What a bitch! Sometimes it is best to follow the top installation you find on youtube! So far research has shown that the best compression tool out there for this is one that goes inside and has two spring hooks up top and two at bottom. It breaks down to where you can get all four hooks out of the mess when you are done. EVen if you have to pull them through the spring later. At least for cars that have no room in the springs I've seen where most apparently prefer this tool over any other one out there that is used. But I really would rather make a tool like yours here if I did ever have to do this more than once ever 40 years.
hahaha it's a learning curve for sure! Depends on room in the coils of the spring and the shape of the control arms etc. Sometimes you can't use those ones with the hooks cuz it's impossible to get them out after the fact.
If it were me I'd just use a shock washer. So you'd have the shock washer against the eyelet hole, then the rubber for the shock then your other shock washer on top of that and then the nut. Hope that's what you're talking about. What happened to the ones you removed?
I just bought a 2 ft. section of 3/4 redi rod and it won't go through the top hole in the shock tower. Can I use 5/8 redi rod instead or should I ream out the hole so the 3/4 rod will fit ? Any assistance will be appreciated.
Maybe the difference is the Canadian vs. USA model of cars??? I don't know...I've never had this issue but it seems you're not the first viewer to write this. I wouldn't trust 5/8" for this - there's a ton of pressure on that rod when doing this. If it were me I'd ream out the hole. Good luck and keep me posted!
way easier front sheetmetal off but with body on i have done loads of leaf spring swaps on ground with just a floor jack .weight of car keeps her in place . i honestly do 1 to 2 a year
@@WebsterHighlanders I meant coils lol. Like i said car on ground one side at a time and a good floor jack does the job . i will try and do a video next time i do one as i usually do 2 tri five chevy a year
@@OldTimeGarage i would like to see that; especially how you use those long bolts to draw up the lower arm at the front connection since with body on the front splash pan prevents use of those long bolts; go crawl under the front and you'll see what i mean; your video should more properly be entitled "how to install 55-57 chevy coil springs with body removed" because with body on some of your techniques won't work and/or are much more difficult
Pulled old springs from my 55 bel air to put in tube suspension...question ..the old springs had rubber on top of springs.. do need these on my new springs to install? Cause I can't find them for sale new
3:48 i removed the stock coils & installed new stock with one ring cut out on my 57 chevy with that first coil compressor you said doesn't work, did you try the curved method?
I have had more close calls with the so called professional compression tool then getting two Fat guy's sit on the bumper and band up the spring and remove them, a bit of overkill with the tie wire is advised tho!
It’s a waaaay easier job to do it with the first tool he shows. Don’t bother with this all thread shit. Bolt the control arm on first put the coils spring compressor inside the coil , install it bolt on spindle. Then take the rod out of the bottom of the hole . Then to get the hooks out punch one of the pins that hold the hooks onto the block they’re attached to, then you can take those out wham bam. Both sides take 45 minutes your welcome
Good video. The whole time watching I was hoping the rod wouldn't let go, the whole thing would've pivoted up on the upper arm mount and you'd have to change seats in the church choir! When I was a kid working in a gas station helping one of the older guys(wise ass always in a hurry guy) changing springs and shocks on a early Bonneville the front spring was almost in and he was pushing with a crowbar and it came loose, wrecked his knee and thigh bone. After they took Jim to the hospital one of the other guys(very patient and knowledgeable) taught me to chain the spring to the frame rail to keep it from flying out. I've always used a chain or heavy cargo strap since, never been injured. Compressed springs are like bombs waiting to go off, please stand to the side at least, I enjoy your videos and hope to see many more. Thanks for sharing
I hear you James - they are dangerous for sure! I've done this a few times and always make safety the top priority. thanks for watching
You could take a small release bearing and put it between the frame and the big washer and it would work as a thrust bearing to reduce friction. This should make it much easier to turn. Great video and I think it is great to share tips and tricks with other people to make jobs easier. Some people try to keep everything to themselves so other people can't benefit from there idea's but it seems like to me those people never get ahead.
MRBoatwrights couldn't agree more, and thanks for the tip about the bearing too
MRBoatwrights Also couldn't agree more..
MRBoatwright
MRBoatwrights m
MRBoatwright
This has been up for years but still useful. One slight change is that I use an inexpensive thrust bearing sandwiched between washers at the top, makes it easy to turn the top nut.
Well fella's I took your advice and reamed the top of the shock tower about 1/16 of an inch so the 3/4 rod would go through. The tool and the video made the job too easy . Can't thank you enough. Please keep up the good work and thank you again . Joe Jenkins
The trick I've done in the past is to compresses the spring then use several lengths of .125 mechanics wire tied around the spring and drop springs in place then assemble suspension and cut wire with extended modified cutters for safety! I guess when you have limited Tools or space you have to think out of the Box!
Wtf
Good tip. Loaded front spring's in my Monte Carlo, and Corvette with a bare frame. Not easy, I'll keep this in mind!!! Keep Rocking!!!
haha yeah they can be a bitch for sure on a frame only
Rocker Pat How did u do it? My empty Camaro sub frame is giving me hell!😆
I know this was posted a few years ago but still helpful. One slight mod I did was to add a thrust washer (bearing) at the top. Makes it easier to turn the top coupling or nut assembly.
Great tip, am sure many have got to the point the spring is compressed and are then unable to retrieve the tool.. and cannot tell you have relieved I am to see Dave not wearing is Daisy dukes.
Another trick is to wrap a chain around the frame attach it to the base of a floor. Jack till the chain is pulling everything together. I also run a treaded rod trough the shock hole and keep running the nut down by hand, just to make sure is something gives the spring is captured. Seems to be the safest way because the control arms already bolted to the frame.
Thank you
I've done a lot of these a lot over the years ' and the jack is extremely good ideal ; I have them to break or pull threads ; VERY SCARY try to kept hands out away from bottom as much as possible' I learned how to make this tool when I was 17 ;no internet then'' from a picture from old Chilton repair book' bearing is very nice and works great' which mine have. also if working from under car DO NOT use air impacts use longer ratchet and a FLOOR JACK . if ever had one of these break and you still have your hand you know what I saying. great show thank you for putting it own.
Doing this now with a Nova subframe (68 to mid 70s style) Yur so right! its dam hard to keep the frame stationary so you can jack the lower control arm UP in installing the coil springs. I figured in my small garage I had two options.1: sink inserts into the cement ( its very thick) and gear up a way to CHAIN the subframe down to the floor, on the jack stands its on,,or2: Brace the subframe with lumber DOWN from the rafters,,which by the way are also VERY sturdy. I went with idea #2. Fresh 2X6 secured to the rafters and down to the top of the subframe and secured, 2 in front of the control arms , 2 at the back end of the subframe. No time at all to whip up with lag bolts. Jack under the control arm(s) and givver!!!. Surprised myself with how well it worked!!LOL. Anyway just thought I'd share with you how I managed it. Take care in how you secure everything! and do it at your own risk if you decide to. Cheers.
That's exactly the way I used to do it before I got a hoist! Good on ya
I have a 67 Chevelle that I have been fighting the springs on. I'm excited to go to the shop and try this technique. If this works for me like it did you it wont be long before it back rolling again. Thanks!!
My buddy with a bagged lifted truck put a drop hitch on and I put my frame under the hitch. Worked like a charm until we got drunk and jumped in the truck to go get more beer and didn't discover our mistake until we got to the 7/11. Yep she's low a low rider now.
Great video as usual Rick, glad to see you and Dave havin some laughs !
2 thumbs up form the ranch here in Massachusetts, USA
Thanks so much for the tip will be putting the front end of my 55 back together this weekend
+Michael Glaviano good luck Michael!
I've got a '54 Chevy, bare frame with cut front springs (previous idiot owner). Looks like a good way to overcome the lack of weight of the car to help out! Thanks for the video ... Subscribed! :D
azautoxr That's all I wanted was to help one other person figure this out - I hate struggling!!
Great How to Tip, nice work again. Greets for Doktor Dave too.
Thx MRBoatwrights, the Bearing Tip is helpful too, also at other under presure screw working.
The high cost? kit reflects the higher quality rod made for the job at hand with safety in mind.
so very true
I guess that cheap spring compressor tools is not the way to go here. I bought a pair off eBay and now I'm a bit concerned of how well they may work. I looked on Danchuk's site and didn't find this tool you spoke of. Sounds like the better way to go, as I have my 56 frame and just media blasted it. Taking the springs out without a tool was a bit scary. Since they bang the lower control arm to the floor when even on a jack stand. The floor jack just got stomped out of the way by the downward force of the spring! No upper weight to push back. Getting the springs in, I think will need to be a bit more careful. These springs are deadly force for sure. I did decide to buy new springs. Not sure we can trust springs that are 60 years old with rust pits in them. Thanks for great video on this. Lots of cranking but as you said. Great for the arms.
Yes I agree - you'll need a tool to get them back in, especially if they are new! Save yourself the grief and make this tool or buy a good one. You won't regret it I promise!
I see you took the lower control arms off. That my friend would be a pain to ever get mine back in as they are polyurethane and the rubber bushigs have to fit inside frame on both ends of control arm. And the new bushings are like rock. I had to beat the lower control arms into the frame with a sledge hammer. But my 56 has a 68 chevy II front end. So not a 55 through 57. My control arm is different. Where you can suck yours up with long bolts. I would have to have my arms already within reach and then beat them into submission so they go inside the frame to fasten. Ooops. Sorry. EVen though I have a 56 chevy car...It has the front end of a 68 chevy nova. Sometimes I forget which car I'm working on! So lower control arms fit up inside the frame on each end. You have a bar that bolts on, right? I wonder what my solution is. I just tried the spring compression tool from eBay and it was too big and would have to fit inside the upper coil area of frame...And does not go in. This compression tool goes only on the outside of coils. So not working.
That method is genius! Wish I knew before fighting my coil springs with a jack and prybar.
hahaha we try to help people out with common problems! Sorry you didn't see it sooner but glad it'll help you out next time!
How about some basic patch panel spot welding tips? Timing, distance, etc? Love the videos sir. Keep me comin!
So that threaded rod is 3/4”? I made my tool and just need time now to do the work but I’m worried the threaded rod is too big….just looking for confirmation. This is an excellent video!
love it goes to the field of dreams perfect name for the work you guys do later
Great video, one of my next jobs on my 56, thanks
cool glad we could entertain
A truck king pin brng would work thats what i have used in the past. good job OTG.
Nice tool Rick I bet that would work on other cars or trucks to.............
The internal spring compressor work fine. You just have to orientate the j hooks a certain way and they fall out. I have a 56 210 sedan.
We've never been able to get them to work
@@OldTimeGarage lol, I used them today on a 55. it was a pain in the butt.
For me I have unscrew the upper j hooks all the way, get them into the spring, then thread the shaft back into it once it's where it needs to be.
I did the same thing, Good tool. Nice job on frame !!!!
chevytk56 TN Thanks chevytk56!
Its like DeJa vu I am building a 56 convert. CPP upper n lower arms.Repainted frame.Didnt want to scratch anything so I made the same exact tool out of threaded rod.BUT I USED 2 CUPPED AND GREASED WASHERS UNDER TOP NUT THAT TURNS TO REDUCE FRICTION.mADE MY UNIT SHRINKS WHEN I DO THIS.tHE POWER BEHIND THOSE SPRINGS IS AWESOME,AKIN TO GETTING PUCHED BY SUPERMAN,NOT BATMAN HE'S NOT THAT STRONG. THANKS FOR GREAT VIDEO. KEN PASSERO/PASSERO MOTORS.
The washers are a great idea!
I actually just today,used the old K&D hooked un-even arm compressor. I left 4 coils between top n bottom arms and fully compressed.POPPED right in with no trouble and NO scratches to my new A arms.
Have never used the 2 piece spring compressors, so just wondering out loud if it's possible to use them, hooked on the control arms and the car frame, to compress the spring and pull the control arms into place at the same time? ;) Might need to design an attachment for the frame end.
Good video
Awesome job, love the narration. Bob's your Uncle! Haha!
hahaha thanks
losts of stored up energy in that spring
not that there is anything wrong with yours but would using an ACME Rod be better?
Trying this method and experiencing some binding, any tips?
Good stuff Rick.
Looking good Rick
I wonder if there is a way to use your tool too compress the spring before it goes through the control arm. Sort of hook up spring and all thread and run it through the shock tower...then tighten. Once tightened, swing lower control arm up so spindle can be put on. Then release the set up. But how would I get the bottom out from under spring. Don't guess it would work that way huh. Unless I could some how attach to the all thread a set up that grabbed the next to last spring coil from bottom. ???? Does that make sense? Maybe a steel plate for bottom of the all-thread that just captures lower spring section. Leaving the last rung of spring to contact bottom of control arm. Sort of work like a inside spring compression tool? Only top would come through like a shock so I can turn it. Like you have done. Maybe first I see if they make a spring removal tool for the 68 chevy since that is what I'm dealing with.
You won't be able to get it out once the lower control arm is bolted on
I see what you mean. I did finally get the job done with a loaner spring compression tool from autozone which had a removable shoe type bottom that you could slide out between the springs once released. Also had to remove the all thread bolt and finagle the two small hooks inside the spring to finally get them to come out the side coil as I widened the spring with a crow bar! What a bitch! Sometimes it is best to follow the top installation you find on youtube! So far research has shown that the best compression tool out there for this is one that goes inside and has two spring hooks up top and two at bottom. It breaks down to where you can get all four hooks out of the mess when you are done. EVen if you have to pull them through the spring later. At least for cars that have no room in the springs I've seen where most apparently prefer this tool over any other one out there that is used. But I really would rather make a tool like yours here if I did ever have to do this more than once ever 40 years.
hahaha it's a learning curve for sure! Depends on room in the coils of the spring and the shape of the control arms etc. Sometimes you can't use those ones with the hooks cuz it's impossible to get them out after the fact.
3/4 inch wouldn't fit through the top where the shock mounts more like 5/8
+guz04087 I used 3/4" no problem, not sure if there's a difference in the American Pontiac compared to the Canadian body style?
I used the tool works great .I had to remove the upper eyelet to get the 3/4 all thread through.I cant find replacement eyelets can you help?
If it were me I'd just use a shock washer. So you'd have the shock washer against the eyelet hole, then the rubber for the shock then your other shock washer on top of that and then the nut. Hope that's what you're talking about. What happened to the ones you removed?
I just bought a 2 ft. section of 3/4 redi rod and it won't go through the top hole in the shock tower. Can I use 5/8 redi rod instead or should I ream out the hole so the 3/4 rod will fit ? Any assistance will be appreciated.
Maybe the difference is the Canadian vs. USA model of cars??? I don't know...I've never had this issue but it seems you're not the first viewer to write this. I wouldn't trust 5/8" for this - there's a ton of pressure on that rod when doing this. If it were me I'd ream out the hole. Good luck and keep me posted!
your right he wrong 1/2 , need a old shock on the bottom
easy to do with the body off the frame; doubt your install would be as easy with the body on
way easier front sheetmetal off but with body on i have done loads of leaf spring swaps on ground with just a floor jack .weight of car keeps her in place . i honestly do 1 to 2 a year
@@OldTimeGarage these aren't leaf springs, but coils; different ballgame
@@WebsterHighlanders I meant coils lol. Like i said car on ground one side at a time and a good floor jack does the job . i will try and do a video next time i do one as i usually do 2 tri five chevy a year
@@OldTimeGarage i would like to see that; especially how you use those long bolts to draw up the lower arm at the front connection since with body on the front splash pan prevents use of those long bolts; go crawl under the front and you'll see what i mean; your video should more properly be entitled "how to install 55-57 chevy coil springs with body removed" because with body on some of your techniques won't work and/or are much more difficult
thanks for the video nice tip
Do you have a source on the "long threaded nut" on the top end?
MH machineer
Thanks I do many 55s and 57s but normally farm this job out not any more best vid off youtube yet
+Bryan Skinner that's exactly why we did this video. I'm so glad it helps you!
Pulled old springs from my 55 bel air to put in tube suspension...question ..the old springs had rubber on top of springs.. do need these on my new springs to install? Cause I can't find them for sale new
You won't find them new. They're used to stop any squeaking. I just re-use the old ones if they aren't falling apart yet.
They are junk ..ill cut up a tube or something
Yeah you need them back in there. I did see online - maybe Ebay last night I think that they do make them new - maybe do a search for them
3:48 i removed the stock coils & installed new stock with one ring cut out on my 57 chevy with that first coil compressor you said doesn't work, did you try the curved method?
No i did not
Whats the curved method?
@@OldTimeGarage i use the one that goes inside spring all the time been playing with trifives since high school
Could you tell us the length of that Redi-Rod
Ours we made was 31" long but you make it whatever length you need for the job
thank you
you are very welcome! Hope it helps you
I have had more close calls with the so called professional compression tool then getting two Fat guy's sit on the bumper and band up the spring and remove them, a bit of overkill with the tie wire is advised tho!
cool tool
Just strap floor jack to frame and jack up the a arm. Lol
Better keep oiling that all thread!
You Sir are correct,those spring compressors are titty twisters for sure,your way is alot safer
Keith Lynch SUCH AN F'ING HEADACHE
It’s a waaaay easier job to do it with the first tool he shows. Don’t bother with this all thread shit. Bolt the control arm on first put the coils spring compressor inside the coil , install it bolt on spindle. Then take the rod out of the bottom of the hole . Then to get the hooks out punch one of the pins that hold the hooks onto the block they’re attached to, then you can take those out wham bam. Both sides take 45 minutes your welcome
Confidence Never Replaces SAFETY