I used Dirko grey when I did my 2.6 to 3.0 swap. It works amazing at sealing. I used it on the freeze plugs, the front engine cover, and the front timing cover. no leaks. Also, your engine is clean af. Looks like you take good car of it.
Good to know, 2 days ago I checked the head gasket for oil leaks and it’s dry as a bone! So that copper spray did the trick for a 30 year old mating surface, I still have one oil leak and fear it the rear main seal, got some UV dye yesterday and will ad to oil to confirm, new video and update soon!
Here I am back nearly a year later after my 2.6 to 3.0 swap and now I need to do the HG. I wish I would've done it when I had the 3.0 out. Listening to your comment @24:10 couldn't be any further from the truth. I have until the end of this Labor Day weekend to have it all apart and back together again. And as luck would have it, the damn place sends me the wrong head gasket for a M104 instead of the M103. One thing I noticed on your cylinder head bolts is that it shows 12x100mm. However, the original bolts were 12x105 mm with the washer and the revised version, a flanged bolt without the washer was 12x102 mm or maybe it's a typo on the distributor's part because the part number is correct for the revised version without washers.
For the U shaped gasket, aka timing chain cover, buy german Hylomar and it will not leak. You can also use toyota gasket maker, very good stuff, not like regular RTV.
There’s a local stealership selling a 1988 300 CE, asking 5k $, and in the ad it says that it needs a head gasket. I would buy it for 1000k$ maybe, and try to do this job on my own. I can’t believe they want 5k for it!!!
I had one of those 300 coupes and couldn't ever keep the interior of the samn thing dry - ongoing PITA and always smelled like mold/mildew. Hope you live in a dry climate.
@@goofyinestherville That's what you have to budget for, looking at the log sheet the parts, having head milled was $290, then extra stuff like oil ,filter, coolant, hoses, sensors, sealants, misc, close to $500 to do it right. cars doing pretty good, no leaks at all so far.
@@mygermancars7264 I can get one with a blown gasket, otherwise clean inside and out for $600 (162K miles). But, is that all there is when you tear into it Is my concern.
Nice video, I´m doing the same project on my 300E 89. But im confused, on my inner tensioner the one you´re loosing in 22:38 , behind it I have a big XZN screw, you know anything about that ? I´ve unscrewed the first screw and removed the little suspensioner but the chain dosen´t slack.
Hi, I have a 1986 300e, not sure if needs new headgasket, no contamination in oil or coolant, but a lot of steam from exhaust, runs fine, did you have these symptoms? temp gets up but not over 100
Mine had oil mixed with coolant in the expansion tank, to confirm a bad HG get that loaner tool from most parts stores, it tests for combustion gases in coolant,, free, you just have to buy the blue liquid. Or here. amzn.to/3KirWfy
How would you go about replacing just the intake manifold gasket? I’ve tried to find videos that would walk through just that part and have not found any suggestions. Thanks for sharing! You and I are going through some of the same issues.
Working on part two right now, for the M103 its not that hard, the manifold will move away from head a little bit, 8 13mm bolts , there are 2 alignment dowels, front and one towards the rear, those are the only hard part to get new gasket fitted, I will show how to do it in next video.
@@mygermancars7264 Thank you! I have watched your videos and you have helped me out tremendously. We are the original owners of our 300e. 275k and it runs like a top!
@@joydivision49 Your welcome , these are great cars but you have to keep up on maintenance, as far as intake gasket I think I will mount it first, then install head, I have done it the other way also.
I finally got the exhaust manifold gasket replaced! Runs just like the day we bought it in 90. Thank you for posting this and the other parts to the series. Now on to the lifters! Thanks John!
Only thing I use is asking questions on Mercedes forums, I get lots of help.diagrams, instructions on repair, and I search Google for particular problems, There are some subscription based repair websites like AllData, and others, best to ask a forum who to use.
They are pretty simple to work on, only thing lacks on board diagnostics', has a little but nothing like OBD2, so you have to search out problems on the net, its there thank god.
I used Dirko grey when I did my 2.6 to 3.0 swap. It works amazing at sealing. I used it on the freeze plugs, the front engine cover, and the front timing cover. no leaks. Also, your engine is clean af. Looks like you take good car of it.
Good to know, 2 days ago I checked the head gasket for oil leaks and it’s dry as a bone! So that copper spray did the trick for a 30 year old mating surface, I still have one oil leak and fear it the rear main seal, got some UV dye yesterday and will ad to oil to confirm, new video and update soon!
Thank you for this video, i really needed this
Here I am back nearly a year later after my 2.6 to 3.0 swap and now I need to do the HG. I wish I would've done it when I had the 3.0 out. Listening to your comment @24:10 couldn't be any further from the truth. I have until the end of this Labor Day weekend to have it all apart and back together again. And as luck would have it, the damn place sends me the wrong head gasket for a M104 instead of the M103. One thing I noticed on your cylinder head bolts is that it shows 12x100mm. However, the original bolts were 12x105 mm with the washer and the revised version, a flanged bolt without the washer was 12x102 mm or maybe it's a typo on the distributor's part because the part number is correct for the revised version without washers.
For the U shaped gasket, aka timing chain cover, buy german Hylomar and it will not leak. You can also use toyota gasket maker, very good stuff, not like regular RTV.
I used Hylomar blue, so far no leaks anywhere, give it time lol.
Great video, thanks a lot for sharing !! I gotta do this soon, def helpful
Super job sir.
Omg you are able to carry that head out of the car by hand? I've actually had a chance once to lift that thing. Man it's actually quite heavy.
There’s a local stealership selling a 1988 300 CE, asking 5k $, and in the ad it says that it needs a head gasket. I would buy it for 1000k$ maybe, and try to do this job on my own. I can’t believe they want 5k for it!!!
Figure about 7-8 hundred for HG, that’s if it needs machine shop work, if head is okay under $500 at most.
I had one of those 300 coupes and couldn't ever keep the interior of the samn thing dry - ongoing PITA and always smelled like mold/mildew. Hope you live in a dry climate.
@@mygermancars7264why $500? Head bolts and gasket cost that much?
@@goofyinestherville That's what you have to budget for, looking at the log sheet the parts, having head milled was $290, then extra stuff like oil ,filter, coolant, hoses, sensors, sealants, misc, close to $500 to do it right. cars doing pretty good, no leaks at all so far.
@@mygermancars7264 I can get one with a blown gasket, otherwise clean inside and out for $600 (162K miles). But, is that all there is when you tear into it Is my concern.
Nice video, I´m doing the same project on my 300E 89. But im confused, on my inner tensioner the one you´re loosing in 22:38 , behind it I have a big XZN screw, you know anything about that ? I´ve unscrewed the first screw and removed the little suspensioner but the chain dosen´t slack.
what does the valve on exhaust manifold do? we do not have that one on EU model
EGR valve, mostly for emissions
Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I have a 1986 300e, not sure if needs new headgasket, no contamination in oil or coolant, but a lot of steam from exhaust, runs fine, did you have these symptoms? temp gets up but not over 100
Mine had oil mixed with coolant in the expansion tank, to confirm a bad HG get that loaner tool from most parts stores, it tests for combustion gases in coolant,, free, you just have to buy the blue liquid.
Or here.
amzn.to/3KirWfy
@@mygermancars7264 thanks
How would you go about replacing just the intake manifold gasket? I’ve tried to find videos that would walk through just that part and have not found any suggestions. Thanks for sharing! You and I are going through some of the same issues.
Working on part two right now, for the M103 its not that hard, the manifold will move away from head a little bit, 8 13mm bolts , there are 2 alignment dowels, front and one towards the rear, those are the only hard part to get new gasket fitted, I will show how to do it in next video.
@@mygermancars7264 Thank you! I have watched your videos and you have helped me out tremendously. We are the original owners of our 300e. 275k and it runs like a top!
@@joydivision49 Your welcome , these are great cars but you have to keep up on maintenance, as far as intake gasket I think I will mount it first, then install head, I have done it the other way also.
I finally got the exhaust manifold gasket replaced! Runs just like the day we bought it in 90. Thank you for posting this and the other parts to the series. Now on to the lifters! Thanks John!
Where do you get information on a computer for repairs ? Could I look for different years and models to Mercedes ?
Only thing I use is asking questions on Mercedes forums, I get lots of help.diagrams, instructions on repair, and I search Google for particular problems, There are some subscription based repair websites like AllData, and others, best to ask a forum who to use.
Are these really that easy to work on? I picked up one for a project and they come off as pretty simple.
They are pretty simple to work on, only thing lacks on board diagnostics', has a little but nothing like OBD2, so you have to search out problems on the net, its there thank god.