COLOR Engraving | How to Color Metal Engraving - Backfill and Masking | Fiber Laser Tutorials
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- We're goin deep today! Get ready to learn how I backfill engravings with color! It takes time and a lot of patience and practice but YOU CAN DO IT. Stick with it, follow the video and practice on junk and you'll be a pro in no time. Be sure to use ENAMEL paint!!! Acrylic just doesn't work as well. About 3 hours dry time between coats - 8 hours for final dry. 100 grit base sand, 800 grit finish. Good luck, have fun - see you in the next one!
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0:00 - Intro - Overview
0:49 - Masking
2:21 - EZCAD Settings
3:35 - Engraving
3:48 - Backfill Prep
4:48 - Backfill 1st Coat
5:46 - Backfill 2nd Coat
7:15 - Peeling and Weeding the Mask
8:37 - Sanding
9:16 - Washing
9:38 - Final Look - Thoughts
10:13 - Outro - Supporting the Channel
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The video shows a line distance of .025 on one hatch and .08 on the other. They should both be .025 and I fixed it off camera - just FYI.
About 3 hours dry time between coats. About 8 hours dry time before sanding.
Awesome video! I love how in depth they are. Keep em' coming!
Will do, thanks for watchin!
awesome i love how bright the colors are.
They look really good! Thanks for watching!
Amazing tutorials bro please keep them going, I a huge fan
Not stopping any time soon Ferz!
You could do the same basic techneque using powder coat. You would have to remount the work piece and lase to melt powder coat. If the substraight is metalic or ceramic or other high temp material it could be baked.
Smart that would be cool wish I had a powder coat setup
Can this same technique be applied to stainless steel
Wow looks cool 👌🏾
Thanks for watching!
this was a good video thanks for posting
Happy to help!
Very smart idea thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to engrave on steel 316 with a depth of 0.3 mm?
Wow! super stuff! Thank you. Would this method work with Sterling Silver?
Yep. Should work on any metal as long as you get enough depth to hold the enamel.
Amazing video thank👍...it would be so cool if a machine/printer/arm could do the enamel work.. Also, curious if the enamel would survive a pressure wash.
Having a machine do the enamel work would be amazing. Not sure if it would survive pressure watching - I haven't seen that tested before. If I was guessing I'd say yeah, probably for a while, definitely not forever.
Your famous lines " It's looking really good " - love it lol - was wondering about powder coating too? But this seems waaay easier.
Enamel backfilling is alright if you're patient but I'm definitely making it look easier in this video than it is. I have a lot of practice too. Haven't tried Michaels powder coat method yet but I'd really like to - perhaps in the new year.
@@LaserEverything Same just got some black coming. Harbor freight $8 -
Curious on how to upload fonts - did some searching - I'll dig some more, but if you catch this hmu.
I'm in FL wuf?
Awesome. I like it learning.
Thank you! Cheers!
Make sure to dilute the water with the soap, otherwise it would be too watery.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
After laser engraving, before back filling, spray a quick coat of clear on it first helps seal the edges. Plus if you ever do this with wood, it will keep the paint from bleeding or sucking into the pores of the wood, which will leave fuzzy edges. I do this all the time and it leaves a very nice, crisp edge.
Amazing tips! Thanks for the heads up! Will definitely do that next time :)
Would please recommend a coat, which brand? Tia!
@@1bigapp If you're asking about the clear, then that all depends what your putting it on or what type of paint you use. You can't mix types or they can bubble and stuff. Most of the time I use clear polyurethane or MinWax Clear Polycrylic, or MinWax Clear Lacquer all in spray cans. If my item will have a coat of clear all over when done, then I will clean, spray a light coat of clear on, mask (makes masking stick better) then engrave, lightly brush or blow off, put a good coat of clear in the engraving to seal pores or edges, paint fill or spray paint, don't forget about print ink like Marsh's Stencil Ink. That stuff lasts great inside and out and dries quick. Anyway when done painting, I let it dry about 1/2 way when I remove the mask. I find the mask comes off better and allows the surface to be smoother. If there is any lip around the edges, I use a plastic scraper or something like a credit card and smooth it out, then I spray the final coat of clear on it. Sounds like a lot but Stencil inks and Lacquers dry super fast so it all goes quick. I do this on woods and metals.
@@RJMachine62 thank you, Sir!
How long did it take to engrave these letters.
Thank you so much for showing the entire process.
Probably 20-30 minutes!
Hello ... thanks to you I bought and JPT laser source 30W. I haven't received yet. My question is can I get color marking with that machine?
You can do some basic colors with a 30w on the higher frequency end of things 200khz+, but keep your expectations limited.
Possible to powder coat with a laser?
Great video..... I at times use syringes too that really help to fill parts
Smart! Never would have thought of that!
@@LaserEverything ya works great, just if the needle is long it can be a little tricky so I cut them short. When they are cut it normally crushes the syringe so I use a grinder to cut back to the undamaged part.... works a treat.
Definitely trying this out.
Yeh, blunt one
Bonjour, me can you help me please i have the m1 pro mr carve laser i am not native to engrave stainless steel with the text remaining white can you give me the parameters or make a video. thank you very much
Instead of black masking tape would a liquid masking material work (if you can get black/dark color)?
I haven't tried it but I don't see why not
I always throw a bb in my small bottles of paint like the Testors. It mixes much better.
Good tip!
I can’t seem to get any depth when using these settings on my 100w laser. I have a 50mm lens should I be speeding it up or using less power?
On a 100w laser you should definitely be destroying a similar piece with these settings. Usually the problem with machines that powerful is that they're nuking the surface. If you're struggling to get any depth it might be time to double check focus.
Nice! Did you pull an all nighter on this one?
You know it!
U r really cool man 👍 great content
I appreciate that! Glad it's helping you!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I have some engraved scrapped metal objects.. any idea how to clean the engravings with laser?
Guys, I need some help, Engraving letters onto Brass with final infill. Just like the plaques, you find at memorials, etc. I've been persuing the CNC route but haven't discarded the thoughts of fibre. Is this possible, what is the right way? is fiber just ball ache for this purpose? There really is very little about brass engraving on the web. Thoughts?
You could do this with brass it's just going to take a long time. If that's your primary purpose CNC may be easier and more time-effective in the long run.
Loving these vids!!! Pro tip: when you mask anything that gets lasered into a stencil, spray with a clear coat first - this will effectively seal the stencil to the stock you engraved to eliminate bleed (esp helpful on wood, stone, and other rough substrates)... Question: what happens if you use blue or red tape (e.g. red laser-engravable sandblasting mask mask from Rayzist)? 🤔
Those are less than ideal, we use black specifically due to it's high absorption of the 1064nm beam which means it burns away much more quickly and efficiently thus resulting in a cleaner cut through. Red and blue will require higher energy density to remove leading to a less clean mask edge and potentially burning/fire on the tape which is obviously not what we want.
After you sand the piece, its not a bad idea to rinse the bulk of the debris and grit out before you start scrubbing and brushing. Similar to rinsing a muddy car off before you wash it.
I wish I thought of this, would have helped. :P
@@LaserEverything I've had to redo finish work more than a time or two because I didn't clean the grit out of embossing and it's gone for a ride in my polishing compounds. :P
Yeah ick. Really good to know.
thanks
You're welcome!
What’s the name of this tape?
If you put on 1 clear coat, the paint will not bleed. Use it on wood and tile all the time.
Nice I'll have to try that next time!
Will the tape work with gold plating
I don't see why not, but I haven't tried it personally.
Would this work on a tumbler?
Maybe. In theory it should, just not sure how good it would look. I would test on a cheap tumbler before committing.
What is this masking tape, PVC or Polyethylene based
Amazon lists it as rubber-based. There's a link in the description.
Can I use the masking tape for acrylic sheet when engraving text?
Yes though these days I'd recommend gaff tape instead. Better adhesive and cloth backer
Looks great, but you didn't use enough dish soap during the wash.
I know, I really should have used like half the bottle FML...
In all seriousness I didn't wait long enough for the enamel paint to dry because I was rushing to get this out so the aluminum dust was getting picked up by the enamel and getting stuck. This was the second shot of me washing because the first one did literally nothing :'D
He is teaching you for free and instead of say thank you, you found something to pick 😒 geezzz be better!
Can we do this with gold ?
I don't see why not, should work with any metal you can engrave deeply.
isn't black masking tape made out of PVC? if so, please make sure you have great ventilation as it will produce toxic fumes including hydrochloric acid.
This is a rubber based tape but good looking out!
Watt of your Laser Machine??
Black to gold color pallets
You can use any color enamel :)
its one of the many methods. I preffer another one ;)
How many passes would you recommend for steel? I’m one of your patreons and I think the deep steel engrave is incorrect
It's highly dependent on the steal you're working on. It will never be deep in one pass it's labeled deep steel because it gives the cleanest mark after many passes. Steel general leaves a much rougher surface if you run it for as long to get the same depth. Deep steel is designed to leave a cleaner finish after going to the same depth some steals will be marked at a depth you would consider deep after 5 passes but other harder steels could take 30 or 40 or more depending on how deep you're trying to go.
@@LaserEverything ok awesome. I’m working on a fire axe which I believe is carbon steel
@@xivsierra2579 Fire axes in particular are TOUGH, very hard to chew through. I let one run for 2 hours yesterday and kinda gave up and annealed it instead. Just couldn't get the depth I wanted and had to move on. Good luck!
@@LaserEverything yah that is what I was afraid of after burning through 3 axes
You CAN do it. Just gotta set it and forget it and work on something else.
How deep was the engrave
I'd say a half millimeter or so
@@LaserEverything Thank you!
Can we mask with cello tape?
I dont see why not, but I would suggest double checking the MSDS of whichever brand you opt to use, some may have some nasty nono stuff included in the make-up, since its not entirely cellulose based a lot of the time. Anything Vinyl (also duct tape for example, nono since its pvc/vinyl based) is a hard no for sure, but mileage may vary on what is in each brands I would guess. If you can do a paper or cloth based masking material, it is generally a safer bet unless you validate the actual material make-up of what you're using.
Great video, but your background siren music is very distracting.
Yes, quite an old video, our newer content doesn't include any music :)
No worries, video is worth the watch! 👍
Interesting.. Just a note, your wifes fingernail polish is enamel paint. (not the new UV cured stuff)
Interesting!
Unspoken step: Make sure enamel is COMPLETELY dry before sanding for best results.
Oh shit did I not say that? Oops. Very important lol. Pinning this comment.
Realized I did pin it to a comment I made when I published the video but it's still very important. Can't be said enough. If you sand drying enamel you're gonna have a bad time lol
@@LaserEverything I may have been impatient a time or two while working with enamels in the past. Thank you Japan Drier... LOL
Bro wasted water save water save life save laser
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