@@MrCROBosanceros If you watch more closely and watch for at least 10 seconds, he's telling the same thing that you said in your original comment. And it is a common known good practice anyway.
Yay! So happy to see you post today. Never see you do it. I imagine you are in the van in some redwood forest on Sundays.. We are such a throwaway society. In world's where salvage is king, everything is reused or recycled until done for. Imagine if we lost the ability to mine or make iron. The pot metal and think and weak chineseum rotors are so thin they make them to be replaced and cannot be in spec when machined. Too bad there are so few mechanics who want to use up their machine tips and just make the customer spend and for what. Lazy techs. People need to keep their original oems. At least until the minimums. And by then it's the same as the thin ones that don't dissipate heat as well and cause greater brake fade as well as more warp pedal pulsation.
My mechanic's rotor turning machine broke down and he never fixed it, so now he has to send the rotors to a machine shop for service, so I'd just rather buy a new set. I just don't buy the top of the line ones.
Scotty Kilmer is right about turning rotors.Even Toyota rotors from a 1997 Landcruiser with plenty of thickness that were made in Japan as I have had turned,Warped 15 thousands lateral runout within a couple of thousand miles even with organic brake pads.The problem I believe is that the carbide insert is too coarse for the metal and creates broken surface covalent and ionic lattice structure domain bonds.You can see it with a microscope.A machinist friend told me that this is why a new rotor is very smooth and does not have deep lines cut in to the surface as when you turn them on a lathe.I did Plasma coating work in North Carolina with vapor deposition sputtering in a vacuum chamber,And used a local university SEM and tunneling microscope to see the surface of various materials after polishing and it makes a big difference on surface strength and hundreds of microns deep in the material when its polished correctly.Ceramic brake pads and metallic pads deposit and transfer material to the rotor that makes the surface swell is also a factor.Good work for the people .Cheers.
Absolutely love this channel and info. However, with how slow he speaks and gets through a video, I couldn’t imagine the amount of hours it takes him to do a job. I appreciate care and concern, but man, is this slowest pace repair guide I’ve ever seen. Anyways, thanks for the free info, will always like and subscribe.
👍 NO cutting corners w brakes and tiers!! Just changed out my daughters original 2018 Corolla Rotors and pads 58K miles, all the way around w POWERSTOP High performance best money can buy !!!
I have a 2005 Tacoma access cab with 4 wheel drive and towing package (I tow 6000 lbs). I have over 135 000 miles on it. The brakes have never been changed. There is not any lip on the rotors and still have about 1/3 of my pads left. The braking is as smooth as when they were new. I stick to OEM parts as they last and last. My truck is stored inside so no rust. Lee
Seems like the rotors are getting hot cause the pads are not retracting enough. I usually clean behind the brake pad piston area with Simple Green before putting things back together. On my Honda FIT with now 75k miles, changed the pads to Akebono ceramics at 70k, before that they started to have the shake when braking...that started slowly but got worst over time. I waited till the pads needed to be replaced. Was thinking of turning the rotors but with modern cars they tend to spec the rotors thinner from the factory so when they do get turn the warp easy. Anyways the rotors looked good besides the shaking which wasn't bad so I decided to try and just replace the pads. The first 100 miles I broke them in hard got them hot and bedded the pad material into the rotors, and after about 200miles they worked great, felt better then stock, smooth quite strong. Odd thing was that the rotors also stopped shaking by about 200miles. So back to the present with about 5k miles on them the brakes feels great no shaking at all as if the car was new with only a few thousand miles.
My 08 4runner will need brakes in the Spring. The rotors have been resurfaced once. I'll be replacing them this time. Is a Toyota replacement rotor recommended?
I haven’t turned rotors since 2000. I have always purchased aftermarket rotors, really haven’t had many problems. Recently using coated rotors to minimize rusting. Thanks…Jim PS…..used to use Honda on Honda pads, but with low life, I switched to Bendix. Because of common low life on Toyota I’m using Bendix also (using first time we’ll see the life).
What do you mean lowlifes? They don't last long enough for your satisfaction? Are you using semi metallic pads? Have you considered metallic? Are you in a lot of stop and go driving?
@@LAactor On my Honda’s I was used to about 80,000 miles on the front for pads, a little more for rears. I always used Honda parts. I have been driving Honda’s since 1996. My wife’s 2006 Accord (purchased new) got 88,000 miles on front, about 55,000 miles on the rear. This was not acceptable, the Honda dealer said that had an improved pad. This new pad did about 43,000 miles, it was worse than original. At this point I changed to Bendix pads and got better life. My wife’s 2017 Toyota RAV4 has 68,000 miles and we’re doing the front brakes this morning, this is low for my expectations. I am using aftermarket Bendix pads because of the low miles. I live in a NW suburb of Chicago and we do not do bumper to bumper traffic. I get more miles on my 2009 Honda CR-V (purchased new), I got 93,000 miles on fronts and 108,000 miles on rears. Thanks…Jim
Nice job! I have a question about my 2019 Camry Hybrid regarding the rotors. Most of the braking I do is not braking with the pads but with the generators to recharge the the battery, so called regenerative braking. As a result the rotors on my Camry hardly wear. That seems nice however they rust a lot and I am afraid the rust will kill the rotors rather than the wear. What is your take on this?
He doesn't answer questions but my take is every once in a while brake harder so you are no longer regeneratively braking and actual braking with the disk and pads. Some owners have reported 100k+ miles to 150 without even changing the pads. Surface rust won't harm it. It will be scrubbed off at the next actual braking. I would even say no more than once a day. Probably could even go two days or three. Rust doesn't eat overnight. If you live on the salt flats of the Maldon sea in the UK you might have a faster rate of corrosion, but then at that point your frame will give out almost as soon.
I had my 2002 Echo front disks resurfaced at 120,000km but they vibrated under braking load so the shop replaced them at cost with new rotors (only $80 per rotor anyway!). I wouldn't hesitate to replace rotors if in doubt. Unless I owned a Renault in which case my friend paid $750/rotor!
OEM if you can afford it. If you don't drive it much not all rotors have to be turned and machined each time. No pulsation? No grooves? Emory them slightly and pad slap. Lube the pin and metal contact points that touch the backing plate of course. Those Best branded rotors are from the delivery supplier O'Reilly. Napa is also good for the most part. Their rotors do come rusted sometimes. Just paper barrier wrap. No protective oil with them for some reason.
Looks like the pistons have uneven pressure being applied. I bet the brake fluid needs replacing also. P.S. It's getting harder to find a mechanic that turns rotors in my area. Good job. chuck
Yup, turning rotors is a case by case depending of the condition/diagnosis and the knowledge/willing of the mechanic. Many times, rotors can be saved and good enough for at least 75% of the initial/original life
Good choice of replacing the rotors. Safety is paramount imo. I painted my calipers to keep the rust down. Bleed & refresh brake fluid every 2 yrs for good measure. It's hygroscopic so always cheap enough to change imo.
Peter, educational questions, assuming that old brake disc you took off still has plenty of life, would surfacing it improve fuel consumption? Also would brakes pulsing reduce fuel consumption? Thanks
He doesn't answer questions but I would say the more you brake the more fuel is used. The harder the brake needs to work the more fuel used. Easier braking or less braking would use less fuel. Also with pulsation, it means the pads aren't fully contacting the disc. So before mileage, control the pulsation so the car can stop in a shorter distance than needed.
I had to swap my 2014 tundra rotors and brakes to aftermarket after the eom rotors warped. I have put about 100k miles on those rotors, currently at 152k on my tundra.
I own a 16-year-old Tacoma from the Rustbelt of Massachusetts, with the original brakes/rotors. About a year old ago while having new tires installed I checked the thickness of the brake pads and they were thin, with them having more wear on one side and the pins looking like they were rusted in place. Do you think I should just get new brake calipers or try to remove and clean the pins instead when replacing the pads?
@@loveydovey4u I think you may be right, wish I knew when I bought my Tacoma in 2006 that preventative maintenance of the pins by lubricating them once in a while was so easy, and would have prolonged the caliper's life... Thanks for the response, Chuck!
As long as the pistons push in easy and smooth just clean or replace the pins I have that style in my motorcycle and then polish up great and they remove easily with a spray of lube and a small brass punch
I work at a honda dealer in san Diego we always turn the rotors on the car lath, but some cares come from rust belt areas and the rotors are junk or hard spots from heating, I think in the rust belt they never turn rotors, and replace the spring clips and hardware.
Well they don't come off unless you really beat on em. Even using an a pneumatic air hammer to break the rust loose is questionable to it's usability after. If they don't come off willingly, they're likely to be replaced.
The light is not so bad now. When you move the camera around it is trying to balance between the lighted floor. But it's much better than before you put the sheet on the ceiling. I know you like perfect so you see it but it is only a minor annoyance. Thank you for being concerned for us.
Maybe a stupid question: The brake pads were ceramic and were practically new. It wasn’t clear to me in the video if they were ok for reuse or if you installed new ones. I wouldn’t want to damage new rotors by using contaminated pads, but I hate throwing away perfectly good pads.
For shop liability reasons I'm going to guess is the easiest answer. Here's another thing. Why not just replace them for the safety of $50 bucks vs a risk.. But at junkyards they're completely taken and you just abrade them up a little with coarse grit sandpaper or Emory on a hard flat surface and wash them off of debris that could embed and you're good to go. If they're not heat checked cracked or otherwise seeming like the calipers got too deep into the backing plate, well, it's your car.
Always replace. Don't putz around with brakes. A brake job should include everything new, including the rubber boots on the brake assembly. So funny to find a mechanic at a lathe and 'old rubber' on the car. Doesn't make natural sense to me.
I have never resurface, or replaced the rotor, because I had one of them floating rotor and was scared to take the assembly apart to remove the rotor. But I have went through 5 sets of brake and 200k on it, and had no issue at all. I finally replaced it because it was at its minimum thickness. But In the process I did damaged my bearings, drain the master cylinder, installed racers upside down, went through, 2.5 big bottles of break fluid spent about a grand on tools, towel, and parts. To my surprise I'm still alive. And yes, my fear of removing the rotor was justified. Now for the rear brake shoes. Lol
I agree about aftermarket rotors, they don't seem to hold up as well as the OEM before the annoying steering wheel shaking begins due to warping/hot spots. I've recently tried AC Delco brand on my 2000 Camry with the hopes of better results compared to no-brand ones.
I'm in my 40's and I've only ever had one set of rotors turned. New rotors aren't that expensive and I'd rather skip the step of taking my rotors into town when I'm doing the work at home. It wouldn't surprise me if a lot of new rotors are made close to minimum spec and can't afford to have any material shaved off.
Father in law has 18 Tundra with 9k miles oem rotors just rusted even though pads were like new. Usually I agree with oem Toyota parts but upgraded him to zinc coated cross drilled and slotted Canada rotors with no issues. Just don't buy Chinese ones they will warp due to cheaper metallurgy and thickness of rotors. No more rust. Ceramic pads and paste on new sliders and on hub makes them run smooth. Paint calipers with caliper paint to keep rust down too.
OEM pads & rotors match as designed. his previous pads were probably too hard and caused excessive heat which warped the rotors. Some advertise their pads as "LIfetime" never wearing out. they don't tell you that the pads eat up your rotors!!!!
Once their worped it change it out for costomer . My own vehical id let you turn them for me and take a chance .if some was paying me id swap them see lot of yota with worp roters and Nissan the break get alot of heat i think its due to small tolerance .
Take Scotty with a grain of salt, he's done tv news and he knows how to sensationalize things. People have noted brake fade with Akebonos. Others say they perform better. OEM is made mostly by Advics and you can see it stamped on may parts of the brake system.
@@LAactor Ok , as I have a 2020 Toyota Camry . I would first and only stay with Toyota / Denso brand of parts . Because obviously these vehicles last long because of them
Gone are the days of free turning. Also if you check review sited if each individual local store you'll see complaints of run-out warping still after turning. That's because they're parts guys. Not daily mechanics. If they don't have an old timer there to machine them, and a kid is doing it and they don't do the slop second pass, or they take too much at a time to save the time doing it, the job isn't going to be done right.
I replaced the factory pads on the front early at 140K because I was selling the 94 Toyota truck to my nephew. I down shift and use the engine and transmission to hold the truck back going down steep hills rather than using excessive braking. I also don't tailgate which leads to a lot of hard braking.
Quality of Toyota brake parts are excellent. I still have original brakes on my 2010 Toyota Yaris with a 105 000 miles (170 000 km) on the odometer. Original rotors, original drums, original pads, and original shoes. Brakes on my 2006 Toyota Corolla usually last over 68 000 miles (110 000 km). Every two years I take brakes apart, clean them and lubricate sliders with silicone grease and I flush brake fluid. I would not buy any after market part for the brakes, maybe stainless-steel braided brake hoses. When I used to own 1994 Mazda 323 and 1997 Mazda Protege vehicles, brake rotors would develop big groves before you even make 18 000 miles (30 000 km).
@@dogsense3773 Honestly! Pads and shoes never wore out but deep grooves and pulsation would developed very early. I even tried after market brake rotors like Brembo. Same thing. I think the only Brembo was the Brembo sticker and nothing else. Probably those brake rotors were undersized for those particular vehicles. No other complain when it comes to 1990's Mazda vehicles.
Tru fact, dodge ram 1500 2017 oem rotors and pad lasted me 40,000km befor rear pads were to steel and front rotors warped . Got 400$ brake job aftermarket and 4 rotors and pad now I hav3 to buy more brakes but... my truck is at 180,000km now soon Tru oem is in fact 4 to 5× worst then aftermarket oem is the cheapest cheap thing car manufacture knows their brakes arnt warenty
IMO you were correct to replace Peter. We just changed the front rotors and pads this morning on my sister in law's 2018 Rav4. Sliders were not moving freely. Done in no time flat. She's a happy camper again, no mo' squeal. Thanks for the video. Up there we call that "heat scoring". Malcolm Ottawa Valley
TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
I've owned Toyotas most my adult life. Toyota went through a "phase" were every stinking rotor they put on a vehicle would warp. If brakes start vibrating and you turn the rotors, the vibration will come back in a few thousand miles. If the rotors are not vibrating. Turn the rotors and hope you don't cause issues. Rotors are a wear item. I use OEM pads and buy quality aftermarket rotors. If they warp, then you are out less money. I have never seen a toyota rotor outlast a good quality aftermarket rotor. Not saying it doesn't happen. Just my penny.
I've used Toytota OEM, Advic(OEM?) and Centric rotors and pads with mixed results on how long they last before vibrating. However, I've tried to follow Centric's recommendations (link below) on break-in period of consecutive hard stops at highway speeds with good results so far. centricparts.com/getmedia/bd69395a-b65c-481d-93f7-b26b1bd0638d/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf
Enjoy your content … Like the way you explain your decisions on your approach to replace parts or use existing parts.
Nice truck/love the color! Excellent brake job! Glad to see u recommend buying new rotors. 👍🇺🇸
7:30, I always apply a thin layer of anti-seize paste on the surface of wheel hub to prevent forming of rust and getting disc rotor stuck to the hub.
9:18. Watch before commenting.
@@SK-xi3ph Yes?
@@MrCROBosanceros If you watch more closely and watch for at least 10 seconds, he's telling the same thing that you said in your original comment. And it is a common known good practice anyway.
Excellent Video Brother! Time for my Toyota to get new brakes. Thanks for the Great Information. Have a Great Day!
Yay! So happy to see you post today. Never see you do it. I imagine you are in the van in some redwood forest on Sundays..
We are such a throwaway society. In world's where salvage is king, everything is reused or recycled until done for. Imagine if we lost the ability to mine or make iron. The pot metal and think and weak chineseum rotors are so thin they make them to be replaced and cannot be in spec when machined.
Too bad there are so few mechanics who want to use up their machine tips and just make the customer spend and for what. Lazy techs. People need to keep their original oems. At least until the minimums. And by then it's the same as the thin ones that don't dissipate heat as well and cause greater brake fade as well as more warp pedal pulsation.
My mechanic's rotor turning machine broke down and he never fixed it, so now he has to send the rotors to a machine shop for service, so I'd just rather buy a new set. I just don't buy the top of the line ones.
Scotty Kilmer is right about turning rotors.Even Toyota rotors from a 1997 Landcruiser with plenty of thickness that were made in Japan as I have had turned,Warped 15 thousands lateral runout within a couple of thousand miles even with organic brake pads.The problem I believe is that the carbide insert is too coarse for the metal and creates broken surface covalent and ionic lattice structure domain bonds.You can see it with a microscope.A machinist friend told me that this is why a new rotor is very smooth and does not have deep lines cut in to the surface as when you turn them on a lathe.I did Plasma coating work in North Carolina with vapor deposition sputtering in a vacuum chamber,And used a local university SEM and tunneling microscope to see the surface of various materials after polishing and it makes a big difference on surface strength and hundreds of microns deep in the material when its polished correctly.Ceramic brake pads and metallic pads deposit and transfer material to the rotor that makes the surface swell is also a factor.Good work for the people .Cheers.
Absolutely love this channel and info. However, with how slow he speaks and gets through a video, I couldn’t imagine the amount of hours it takes him to do a job. I appreciate care and concern, but man, is this slowest pace repair guide I’ve ever seen. Anyways, thanks for the free info, will always like and subscribe.
I go into settings (the little geer) and set the speed at two times and it makes a very good video😊
Time for my 2001 Tacoma to get a brake job. Great video Petr
New rotors and pads is the best way to go.
$800 here. If can resurface can save lots of money
👍 NO cutting corners w brakes and tiers!! Just changed out my daughters original 2018 Corolla Rotors and pads 58K miles, all the way around w POWERSTOP High performance best money can buy !!!
I have a 2005 Tacoma access cab with 4 wheel drive and towing package (I tow 6000 lbs). I have over 135 000 miles on it. The brakes have never been changed. There is not any lip on the rotors and still have about 1/3 of my pads left. The braking is as smooth as when they were new. I stick to OEM parts as they last and last. My truck is stored inside so no rust. Lee
Good job Mr. Peter.
👍thanks for sharing this video, very interesting and informative.
have you tried any of the BG products? i have a sludged up 03 Corolla i might try them in, any ideas? thanks
Seems like the rotors are getting hot cause the pads are not retracting enough. I usually clean behind the brake pad piston area with Simple Green before putting things back together.
On my Honda FIT with now 75k miles, changed the pads to Akebono ceramics at 70k, before that they started to have the shake when braking...that started slowly but got worst over time. I waited till the pads needed to be replaced. Was thinking of turning the rotors but with modern cars they tend to spec the rotors thinner from the factory so when they do get turn the warp easy. Anyways the rotors looked good besides the shaking which wasn't bad so I decided to try and just replace the pads. The first 100 miles I broke them in hard got them hot and bedded the pad material into the rotors, and after about 200miles they worked great, felt better then stock, smooth quite strong. Odd thing was that the rotors also stopped shaking by about 200miles. So back to the present with about 5k miles on them the brakes feels great no shaking at all as if the car was new with only a few thousand miles.
My 08 4runner will need brakes in the Spring. The rotors have been resurfaced once. I'll be replacing them this time. Is a Toyota replacement rotor recommended?
OEM brake pads and midline rotors, have not turned rotors in over 20 years, never had any issues.
What polishing attachments kit are you using with those Milwaukee drills?
Question: Wouldn't you agree that if you did resurface the rotor it would most likely last a year?
Thank you Peter.
Hello, I need to replace my original Brake lines attached to my caliper (rubber) on my 2002 Tacoma 4x4. Do you recommend Toyota or aftermarket? Thanks
I haven’t turned rotors since 2000. I have always purchased aftermarket rotors, really haven’t had many problems. Recently using coated rotors to minimize rusting. Thanks…Jim
PS…..used to use Honda on Honda pads, but with low life, I switched to Bendix. Because of common low life on Toyota I’m using Bendix also (using first time we’ll see the life).
What do you mean lowlifes? They don't last long enough for your satisfaction? Are you using semi metallic pads? Have you considered metallic? Are you in a lot of stop and go driving?
@@LAactor On my Honda’s I was used to about 80,000 miles on the front for pads, a little more for rears. I always used Honda parts. I have been driving Honda’s since 1996. My wife’s 2006 Accord (purchased new) got 88,000 miles on front, about 55,000 miles on the rear. This was not acceptable, the Honda dealer said that had an improved pad. This new pad did about 43,000 miles, it was worse than original. At this point I changed to Bendix pads and got better life. My wife’s 2017 Toyota RAV4 has 68,000 miles and we’re doing the front brakes this morning, this is low for my expectations. I am using aftermarket Bendix pads because of the low miles. I live in a NW suburb of Chicago and we do not do bumper to bumper traffic. I get more miles on my 2009 Honda CR-V (purchased new), I got 93,000 miles on fronts and 108,000 miles on rears. Thanks…Jim
@@jimpie231 Try Akebono brake pads. Excellent quality and last the longest.
Just had my rear disks pads and calipers replaced, there was nearly 3 mm burr on the rotor edge.
Nice job! I have a question about my 2019 Camry Hybrid regarding the rotors. Most of the braking I do is not braking with the pads but with the generators to recharge the the battery, so called regenerative braking. As a result the rotors on my Camry hardly wear. That seems nice however they rust a lot and I am afraid the rust will kill the rotors rather than the wear. What is your take on this?
He doesn't answer questions but my take is every once in a while brake harder so you are no longer regeneratively braking and actual braking with the disk and pads. Some owners have reported 100k+ miles to 150 without even changing the pads. Surface rust won't harm it. It will be scrubbed off at the next actual braking. I would even say no more than once a day. Probably could even go two days or three. Rust doesn't eat overnight. If you live on the salt flats of the Maldon sea in the UK you might have a faster rate of corrosion, but then at that point your frame will give out almost as soon.
I had my 2002 Echo front disks resurfaced at 120,000km but they vibrated under braking load so the shop replaced them at cost with new rotors (only $80 per rotor anyway!). I wouldn't hesitate to replace rotors if in doubt. Unless I owned a Renault in which case my friend paid $750/rotor!
Peter, where do you get your rotors? Have a 2004 RX not driven much. Should I stick with oem or Napa/ o’rally’s/ autozone?
OEM if you can afford it. If you don't drive it much not all rotors have to be turned and machined each time. No pulsation? No grooves? Emory them slightly and pad slap. Lube the pin and metal contact points that touch the backing plate of course. Those Best branded rotors are from the delivery supplier O'Reilly. Napa is also good for the most part. Their rotors do come rusted sometimes. Just paper barrier wrap. No protective oil with them for some reason.
I have noticed that aftermarket rotors seem to rust much worse than my OEM General Motors ones did. Different spec for the steel alloy?
And also thinner. There's no set spec except for minimum thickness and if you use less material in the rotor you can make them cheaper.
The the machine for resurfacing the rotors looks like it says accuturn 8344?
Looks like the pistons have uneven pressure being applied. I bet the brake fluid needs replacing also. P.S. It's getting harder to find a mechanic that turns rotors in my area. Good job. chuck
Yup, turning rotors is a case by case depending of the condition/diagnosis and the knowledge/willing of the mechanic. Many times, rotors can be saved and good enough for at least 75% of the initial/original life
Good choice of replacing the rotors. Safety is paramount imo. I painted my calipers to keep the rust down. Bleed & refresh brake fluid every 2 yrs for good measure. It's hygroscopic so always cheap enough to change imo.
Generally, I’d rather machine out the warp, since it is unlikely to warp again, especially now when product quality has become so questionable.
You’re right, a lot of the aftermarket parts are Chinese junk.
Ceramic brake pads are very hard on rotors.
Today at Toyota, 3/23/23, turning is $300 and replacing is $600. Getting them turned if it’s possible. 65000 miles on my 2018 Tundra.
Peter, educational questions, assuming that old brake disc you took off still has plenty of life, would surfacing it improve fuel consumption? Also would brakes pulsing reduce fuel consumption? Thanks
He doesn't answer questions but I would say the more you brake the more fuel is used. The harder the brake needs to work the more fuel used. Easier braking or less braking would use less fuel. Also with pulsation, it means the pads aren't fully contacting the disc. So before mileage, control the pulsation so the car can stop in a shorter distance than needed.
The only way I think it would change your fuel consumption would be if the pads were rubbing when they weren’t supposed to be.
I had to swap my 2014 tundra rotors and brakes to aftermarket after the eom rotors warped. I have put about 100k miles on those rotors, currently at 152k on my tundra.
I own a 16-year-old Tacoma from the Rustbelt of Massachusetts, with the original brakes/rotors. About a year old ago while having new tires installed I checked the thickness of the brake pads and they were thin, with them having more wear on one side and the pins looking like they were rusted in place.
Do you think I should just get new brake calipers or try to remove and clean the pins instead when replacing the pads?
I too live in Massachusetts and had to replace my caliper when I changed my pads at 100k because it was frozen. Yours maybe frozen as well....
@@loveydovey4u I think you may be right, wish I knew when I bought my Tacoma in 2006 that preventative maintenance of the pins by lubricating them once in a while was so easy, and would have prolonged the caliper's life... Thanks for the response, Chuck!
As long as the pistons push in easy and smooth just clean or replace the pins I have that style in my motorcycle and then polish up great and they remove easily with a spray of lube and a small brass punch
Good job
His How to resurface vid P1: czcams.com/video/qMZn7eaEzus/video.html
I work at a honda dealer in san Diego we always turn the rotors on the car lath, but some cares come from rust belt areas and the rotors are junk or hard spots from heating, I think in the rust belt they never turn rotors, and replace the spring clips and hardware.
Well they don't come off unless you really beat on em. Even using an a pneumatic air hammer to break the rust loose is questionable to it's usability after. If they don't come off willingly, they're likely to be replaced.
Correct.. from wisconsin
The light is not so bad now. When you move the camera around it is trying to balance between the lighted floor. But it's much better than before you put the sheet on the ceiling. I know you like perfect so you see it but it is only a minor annoyance. Thank you for being concerned for us.
Maybe a stupid question:
The brake pads were ceramic and were practically new. It wasn’t clear to me in the video if they were ok for reuse or if you installed new ones. I wouldn’t want to damage new rotors by using contaminated pads, but I hate throwing away perfectly good pads.
For shop liability reasons I'm going to guess is the easiest answer. Here's another thing. Why not just replace them for the safety of $50 bucks vs a risk..
But at junkyards they're completely taken and you just abrade them up a little with coarse grit sandpaper or Emory on a hard flat surface and wash them off of debris that could embed and you're good to go. If they're not heat checked cracked or otherwise seeming like the calipers got too deep into the backing plate, well, it's your car.
Peter where you order the rotors from?
The shop has a delivery contract with O'Reilly
Always replace. Don't putz around with brakes. A brake job should include everything new, including the rubber boots on the brake assembly.
So funny to find a mechanic at a lathe and 'old rubber' on the car. Doesn't make natural sense to me.
I have never resurface, or replaced the rotor, because I had one of them floating rotor and was scared to take the assembly apart to remove the rotor. But I have went through 5 sets of brake and 200k on it, and had no issue at all. I finally replaced it because it was at its minimum thickness. But In the process I did damaged my bearings, drain the master cylinder, installed racers upside down, went through, 2.5 big bottles of break fluid spent about a grand on tools, towel, and parts. To my surprise I'm still alive. And yes, my fear of removing the rotor was justified. Now for the rear brake shoes. Lol
I agree about aftermarket rotors, they don't seem to hold up as well as the OEM before the annoying steering wheel shaking begins due to warping/hot spots. I've recently tried AC Delco brand on my 2000 Camry with the hopes of better results compared to no-brand ones.
I always replace the slide pins. They are like $5 a set.
I'm in my 40's and I've only ever had one set of rotors turned. New rotors aren't that expensive and I'd rather skip the step of taking my rotors into town when I'm doing the work at home.
It wouldn't surprise me if a lot of new rotors are made close to minimum spec and can't afford to have any material shaved off.
Father in law has 18 Tundra with 9k miles oem rotors just rusted even though pads were like new. Usually I agree with oem Toyota parts but upgraded him to zinc coated cross drilled and slotted Canada rotors with no issues. Just don't buy Chinese ones they will warp due to cheaper metallurgy and thickness of rotors. No more rust. Ceramic pads and paste on new sliders and on hub makes them run smooth. Paint calipers with caliper paint to keep rust down too.
Toyota is known for not lubing slide pins enough on the Tacos & Tundras.
OEM pads & rotors match as designed. his previous pads were probably too hard and caused excessive heat which warped the rotors.
Some advertise their pads as "LIfetime" never wearing out. they don't tell you that the pads eat up your rotors!!!!
Autozone elite brake pad OMG better than OEM and wow braking much inproved
a good covering of grease will stop the rotors from rusting
I had my rotors resurfaced now I have constant squeaking
No one I know turn rotors anymore they so close to the lowest tolerance new that they just warp again
These still have drum brakes on the rear.
Once their worped it change it out for costomer . My own vehical id let you turn them for me and take a chance .if some was paying me id swap them see lot of yota with worp roters and Nissan the break get alot of heat i think its due to small tolerance .
When I see caliper hanging on a brake hose, I immediaterly leave shop and never come back.
It's been said that the ceramic brand of brake pads made by Akebono are the best .
Per Scotty.
Take Scotty with a grain of salt, he's done tv news and he knows how to sensationalize things. People have noted brake fade with Akebonos. Others say they perform better. OEM is made mostly by Advics and you can see it stamped on may parts of the brake system.
@@LAactor Ok , as I have a 2020 Toyota Camry . I would first and only stay with Toyota / Denso brand of parts . Because obviously these vehicles last long because of them
@@LAactor Yeah, Scotty says all kinds of things. I can't take him too seriously as he's trying to get views.
Rust 😂 in the midwest those are rust free 😂
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Buy original or top line. Makes a diff. Promise. Oreillys parts clerk here.
How are your "Select" lineups? Approve?
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If your rotors are in decent shape and the auto parts store turns them for free, I would go for it
Most machine shops charge 12.00-15.00 each rotor to turn.
@@PRO4XKEV it’s 25 in my area
Gone are the days of free turning. Also if you check review sited if each individual local store you'll see complaints of run-out warping still after turning. That's because they're parts guys. Not daily mechanics. If they don't have an old timer there to machine them, and a kid is doing it and they don't do the slop second pass, or they take too much at a time to save the time doing it, the job isn't going to be done right.
@@LAactor I agree. It’s really hard to find someone who not only can to it right but has knowledge on how to trouble shoot
In my rust belt only exception is for antique vehicles the rest always too rusty and results in warped rotors weeks after they resurfacing
I replaced the factory pads on the front early at 140K because I was selling the 94 Toyota truck to my nephew. I down shift and use the engine and transmission to hold the truck back going down steep hills rather than using excessive braking. I also don't tailgate which leads to a lot of hard braking.
Brakes are cheaper than a transmission
Poetry can hardly fix a vehicle.
Quality of Toyota brake parts are excellent. I still have original brakes on my 2010 Toyota Yaris with a 105 000 miles (170 000 km) on the odometer. Original rotors, original drums, original pads, and original shoes. Brakes on my 2006 Toyota Corolla usually last over 68 000 miles (110 000 km). Every two years I take brakes apart, clean them and lubricate sliders with silicone grease and I flush brake fluid. I would not buy any after market part for the brakes, maybe stainless-steel braided brake hoses.
When I used to own 1994 Mazda 323 and 1997 Mazda Protege vehicles, brake rotors would develop big groves before you even make 18 000 miles (30 000 km).
In San Francisco with these hills every 18,000 new brakes,not kidding!
@@dogsense3773 I feel ur pain, I used to live on hills. 🙄 Helps if u have a stick.
@@dogsense3773 Honestly! Pads and shoes never wore out but deep grooves and pulsation would developed very early. I even tried after market brake rotors like Brembo. Same thing. I think the only Brembo was the Brembo sticker and nothing else. Probably those brake rotors were undersized for those particular vehicles. No other complain when it comes to 1990's Mazda vehicles.
@@dogsense3773 Just a brake rotors and they were very cheap back then.
Tru fact, dodge ram 1500 2017 oem rotors and pad lasted me 40,000km befor rear pads were to steel and front rotors warped . Got 400$ brake job aftermarket and 4 rotors and pad now I hav3 to buy more brakes but... my truck is at 180,000km now soon Tru oem is in fact 4 to 5× worst then aftermarket oem is the cheapest cheap thing car manufacture knows their brakes arnt warenty
Every 2nd brake job new rotors cheap $!
Petr, I agree with you. 😁
IMO you were correct to replace Peter. We just changed the front rotors and pads this morning on my sister in law's 2018 Rav4. Sliders were not moving freely. Done in no time flat. She's a happy camper again, no mo' squeal.
Thanks for the video. Up there we call that "heat scoring".
Malcolm Ottawa Valley
This guy needs a few minutes alone with that truck before he records anything.
on my rav 4 they're rusty..
just replace them
TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
I've owned Toyotas most my adult life. Toyota went through a "phase" were every stinking rotor they put on a vehicle would warp. If brakes start vibrating and you turn the rotors, the vibration will come back in a few thousand miles. If the rotors are not vibrating. Turn the rotors and hope you don't cause issues. Rotors are a wear item. I use OEM pads and buy quality aftermarket rotors. If they warp, then you are out less money. I have never seen a toyota rotor outlast a good quality aftermarket rotor. Not saying it doesn't happen. Just my penny.
I've used Toytota OEM, Advic(OEM?) and Centric rotors and pads with mixed results on how long they last before vibrating. However, I've tried to follow Centric's recommendations (link below) on break-in period of consecutive hard stops at highway speeds with good results so far.
centricparts.com/getmedia/bd69395a-b65c-481d-93f7-b26b1bd0638d/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf
Omg! Toss them! They are so cheap now a days!!
Never cut rotors. The thinner metal will warp much easier after its cut
Man. Please go to the point.
I was thinking the same thing. I thought Shaq talks slow but this guy has him beat. But thumbs up for doing a good job on that truck.